Northern Lights over New Year

[goldengatecruisers]

We are really interested in booking one of the 6 or 7 day voyages that will take in the Northern Lights and New Year this coming December. We are very experienced cruisers and we are not expecting a cruise experience. Rather we are excited to experience Hurtigruten as we have heard good things from travelers we have met along the way. Is it expected that we will see the Northern Lights on each voyage? Are the ships typically full on such sailings. We have a choice of various departures toward the end of December - can any of you speak to whether it is better to choose one of the newer ships over some of the older classic vessels? Presumably accommodations are on the small side on both kinds and hopefully food will be decent. Any tips you care to share would be most appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

Ashley

[SarniaLo]

I have done four trips with Hurtigruten, including 3 in winter. I have seen the Northern Lights during all the winter trips (maybe I'm lucky ;)). Northern Lights are present actually almost every night above the Arctic Circle but their intensity will vary from day to day (sometimes it is only a very faint glow which you can barely see and sometimes the whole show), and also to be able to see them you need to have a clear sky (no clouds) and that's difficult to forecast in advance. The intensity of the Aurora on a given day is also difficult to predict in advance. So book a date that suits you and pray for the best!

 

I have done three trips aboard the most ancien MS Lofoten, and one aboard the MS Polarlys, which actually was a winter holiday trip (Christmas and New Years Eve on board). These particular trips will attract bigger crowds (probably more Christmas than New Years Eve on its own), I would expect the ships to be nearly full, but there is a nice special atmosphere on board. The holidays also drive a lot of local traffic (I have never seen so many passengers on board than on Dec 30th and 31st).

 

The MS Lofoten is my favorite ship because she has such a special atmosphere, very warm and cozy and people on board soon start to feel like a family. The ship is smaller so there are less passengers (around 100 round-trip passengers), and you really have the feeling of a working ship. However the comfort is a bit more "rough" (the cabins are way smaller) and there are no stabilizer so if you are afraid of sea-sickness it may not be the best choice. So unless you have a particular interest in maritime history as I do, for a first trip, a newer ship might be a good option (one from the "classic" category, those built in the 1990's), particularly for a winter trip because they have those great panoramic lounge with floor to ceiling glass walls that let you watch outside while staying warm. The stabilizer are very efficient. The most recent ships are even bigger, too crowded for my taste.

 

Food is a matter of taste, you will get some divergent opinions on this board if you look at previous talk, but yes, it will be decent (I personnaly have absolutely no complaint, except the price for drinks which are really, really high).

 

A winter trip, I find, is a treat in itself, even without the Northern Lights. During my Christmas trip I was blown away by the delicacy and the beauty of the light and colors during the day, particularly above the Arctic Circle, where I discovered that "no sun above the horizon" didn't mean 24 hours-night, but rather long hours of sunrise/sunset, and beautiful lights reflecting on the snow covered mountains. Think of the Northern Lights as a magic cherry on top of a beautiful cake! ;)

 

If you want to see a report of my winter trips, you can look at my blog.

The Christmas 2010 trip aboard the MS Polarlys starts here :

http://voyageterremer.blogspot.com/2010/12/bergen.html (text in French only for this one, but you can google-translate it, or just look at the pictures which speak for themselves I hope)

March 2012 trip aboard MS Lofoten :

http://voyageterremer.blogspot.fr/2012/03/oslo-bergen-en-train-pour-changer.html (text both in French and English)

February 2013 trip aboard MS Lofoten:

http://voyageterremer.blogspot.fr/2013/02/oslo-bergen-en-train-pour-ne-pas-changer.html (text both in French and English as well)

[RSF Cruiser]

I took the round trip last New Years on the Midnatsol. We were in Tromso for New Years Eve, and it was spectacular. I have never seen so many fireworks in my life. To quote one of the ship staff members, the best place to watch the fireworks is from the top, open deck, and the fireworks are everywhere. No matter where you looked, you could see fireworks. Some up close to the ship, others further in the distance. We stayed in port longer than normal - we arrived around 1:00 or 2:00 in the afternoon and the fireworks had already started. We left a little after midnight. Seems as though everyone in Tromso tries to out do their neighbors with a fireworks display. At midnight, we had a 360 degree view of fireworks everywhere - it was magnificent.

 

Our voyage was pretty full - around 500 or so passengers. Some were Norwegians using the ship for transportation between stops, and others were tourists on board for the half or full journey. Most of the passengers were from Europe - there were less than ten of us from the US (four were in our group).

 

We saw the northern lights twice since it was cloudy a few of the nights. It was a wonderful journey and I can't wait to go with Hurtigruten again.

 

Read about the different ships and make your decision based on what is important to you. We wanted a jacuzzi and exercise room, so that limited our choice. Now that I've taken the journey, if I were to do it again over New Years, I'd be sure to be in Tromso for New Years Eve to see all of the fireworks. I don't know if other ports have as spectacular a display.

Edited November 16, 2013 by RSF Cruiser

[SarniaLo]

Now that I've taken the journey, if I were to do it again over New Years, I'd be sure to be in Tromso for New Years Eve to see all of the fireworks. I don't know if other ports have as spectacular a display.

We were in Svolvaer for New Year's Eve and we had the same experience with fireworks all around, so it seems to be a widespread Norwegian tradition. There was so much light from the dozens of fireworks everywhere that we could see the mountains as if they were lit up. It was spectacular.

The ship altered its schedule so that we would stay in Svolvaer longer than usual and actually be there at midnight.

But yeah, I guess fireworks in the Tromso setting would be something magical.

[goldengatecruisers]

Thank you both for such fast and thorough responses. Sophie your blogs are sensational and the photographs alone have made the decision for us. We will spend the weekend researching the various ships and make a decision by Monday morning. I will let you know what we decide.

Maybe I missing something on the Hurtigruten website but where can I find about cabin amenities. Do they provide toiletries or should we plan on bringing our own. I also note a cafe where food and drink may be purchased all day - is this primarily to cater for local traffic? Presumably our breakfast, lunch and dinner will be in the restaurant at set tables? Typically what is the dress code for evening meals in the restaurant? I am sure I will have more questions as the weeks go by. I know we have to go shopping for appropriate footwear but we have plenty of layers and outerwear to keep us warm and dry. Thank you for your tips and suggestions.

 

Ashley

[SarniaLo]

I'm really glad that you are considering this trip and that my pictures helped you decide (oh my, what a responsability! ;)). Thank you for your appreciation. You might want to look at other discussions on this board about Hurtigruten winter trip (this past year or so), there were some helpful discussion particularly regarding clothing and footwear.

Maybe I missing something on the Hurtigruten website but where can I find about cabin amenities. Do they provide toiletries or should we plan on bringing our own. I also note a cafe where food and drink may be purchased all day - is this primarily to cater for local traffic? Presumably our breakfast, lunch and dinner will be in the restaurant at set tables? Typically what is the dress code for evening meals in the restaurant? I am sure I will have more questions as the weeks go by. I know we have to go shopping for appropriate footwear but we have plenty of layers and outerwear to keep us warm and dry. Thank you for your tips and suggestions.

Sheets, blankets and towels are provided. There is usually just an all-purpose liquid soap dispenser in the bathroom and shower so I usually bring my own shower soap and shampoos. There is I think a hairdryer in all cabins (except MS Lofoten).

 

The cafetaria indeed caters for local traffic. For full-board passengers (or for local passengers wanting a more refined meal) there is a dedicated restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast and lunch are buffet, you can come when you want during the opening hours (which may slightly vary from day to day, depending on port of calls and excursion, but there is usually at least a 2,5 hours time slot) and you can sit where you want. Dinner is a fixed three course menu, there are two services and you are assigned a service and a table. Hurtigruten usually tries to sit together people from the same country or at least speaking the same language. The menu is posted well in advance so if you don't like something you can ask for a replacement, and you can also probably change your service/your table if you are not happy with it, they will try to accomodate you.

 

There is no dress code on board, ever. Even on Christmas Eve, when local officials and crew's family members were coming to dine onboard in fancy evening dresses and suits, there were some passengers in fleece jackets and running shows and everybody was fine with that. I usually come to dinner in the same clothes I wear during the day. I did dress up a bit for Christmas and New Year's Eve dinner, but it was my own choice, and not everybody did (and nothing was expected of us).

 

As for footwear, I usually go with waterproof hiking shoes and I bought "shoe spikes" to wear when walking in the streets and they came quite handy at times (a bit like that : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C4BTCA)

[goldengatecruisers]

Thank you again for the information. The shoe spikes will definitely come in handy. We will have to be very selective with the packing so our small cabin is not overflowing with luggage. Packing for a conventional cruise vs. Hurtigruten is going to be very different for us, thats for sure. I appreciate you letting me know about the dress code. I am going to check the schedule to see if New Year's Eve in Tromso will be possible for our journey.

 

Ashley

[RSF Cruiser]

There are washing machines and dryers on the ship. We took only five days of clothes for our 12 day voyage. I forget the charge for soap, something like $6 a load, but use of the machines was "free".

[goldengatecruisers]

Thank you RSF. We will most definitely take advantage of the washing machines as we attempt to keep the packing to absolute essentials and necessities. I am encouraged to hear that many wear the same clothes (minus a layer or two) to the dining room. We thought we would have to bring an entire evening attire section in our suitcases. I like the idea of being able to get back out on deck to see something without having to run back to the stateroom to change clothing.

[SarniaLo]

I like the idea of being able to get back out on deck to see something without having to run back to the stateroom to change clothing.

Exactly! You are completely in the right spirit. We had a call for Northern Lights right in the middle of dinner once. I go to dinner with my jacket and camera (and the tripod)! ;)

Except on the MS Lofoten, the cabins are not that small. You can fit two normal-size suitcases and their content.

[goldengatecruisers]

Its booked! Very excited to be doing this adventure. We are on the Dec 29th departure from Bergen on Nordkapp. The departure date was the one that worked best for our time available and we are thrilled to be doing this for the New Year celebrations. We were not able to get Tromso for New Years Eve but I know we will have a fantastic time no matter where we are on that day. Now I have to start getting the proper attire and doing more research. We also booked a few excursions including the North Cape. Thank you to you all for your kind assistance in helping us decide. Is anyone else on the 7 day northbound voyage?

 

Sophie, I can not wait to read your travel blog from the Antarctic trip. That is something we will get to in the coming years too.

 

Ashley

Edited November 18, 2013 by goldengatecruisers

[digitl]

Luggage storage? We were able to store our two large suitcases, and two small, under one of the 'beds'.

 

And if there's some small amount of laundry required then it will dry nicely on the extendible line in the toilet. Just remember to keep the heated floor turned on.

[goldengatecruisers]

Just decided to do the train from Oslo to Bergen on the day of departure - it looked so good in the travel blog submitted by SarniaLo. Sophie, is it best to purchase the tickets in advance or did you purchase at the station? The train gets in around mid afternoon so we are hoping we have time to drop the bags off and do the ariel tram before boarding the ship. We have a late departure as you know so hoping we can do a little exploration of Bergen town. This promises to be an amazing New Years trip. Thanks again for the tips and help earlier in the process.

[SarniaLo]

I bought the train tickets in advance. If you go to Nsb website 90 days before your departure date (that's when the sale opens), you can get "Minipris" ticket which are really cheap!

http://www.nsb.no/our-tickets/minipris-article38289-4337.html (249NOK is about $40).

We even indulged in "Komfort" seats ( http://www.nsb.no/on-board/nsb-komfort-article38202-4345.html ) for an additional 90NOK per person. But the regular seats are plenty comfortable as well, you get a bit more room on the Komfort seats.

If I remember correctly at some point in the booking you are asked for a postcode number, I put in the postcode for the hotel in Oslo.

If you take the train that leaves Oslo around 8.30am, you are in the mountains around midday so there is plenty of light to enjoy the amazing scenery, and then in Bergen you can drop off your luggage at the Hurtigrutenterminalen and enjoy a stroll around Bergen. It is the perfect start to a winter voyage for me! So glad I could be of help.

[arcticGateway]

@RSF Cruiser:

I have been on board the Midnatsol just for an hour at New Years Eve, for those who haven't seen my video of that night already:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pY_Y2cWySHk

 

@goldengatecruisers: Whish you a pleasant journey!

[RSF Cruiser]

@RSF Cruiser:

I have been on board the Midnatsol just for an hour at New Years Eve, for those who haven't seen my video of that night already:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pY_Y2cWySHk

 

@goldengatecruisers: Whish you a pleasant journey!

 

Thank you! That was my favorite New Years fireworks ever. We probably saw each other on deck while watching the fireworks - your video was taken from near where we were standing!

[goldengatecruisers]

We leave today for Oslo. Thanks again for all of the help and advice we received from this board. Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all. May 2014 be filled with travel adventures.

[SarniaLo]

I wish you a great trip and cross my fingers for the Northern Lights! Let us know about your experience when you come back.

[RSF Cruiser]

One year ago today we boarded the Midnatsol... Wish I were joining you this year... Hope you have a fabulous time, see the northern lights, and let us know how things went. Happy travels!

[goldengatecruisers]

Back from Oslo and I can't believe it was warmer in Kirkenes than it is today in Manhattan. Go figure! We thoroughly enjoyed the coastal voyage and managed to see Northern Lights on two evenings, unfortunately the weather was not the best for part of our voyage due to low cloud cover and rain. But the two nights of good sightings more than made up for that. How magical to see the lights dancing. One evening we stayed out until 1.30am just admiring the different patterns and colors.

We buffered our trip with overnight stays in Oslo and really enjoyed exploring the city and dining out. We found an amazing Italian restaurant called Trattoria Populare for those of you heading to Oslo! Our train journey to Bergen was enjoyable (thanks for the tip SarniaLo) and I am pleased we opted to do that rather than fly. We took the Komfort seats which gave us a little more room and I am glad that we did.

Once in Bergen we boarded Nordkapp and had a look around. Knowing that we were on a ferry service, and not a cruise ship, our expectations were set accordingly. Our stateroom was on deck 5 which gave easy access to the outside deck and we feel this was the best location on board. I would like to let future Hurtigruten guests know the cabin was basic and we were expecting that, but its good to point out because several passengers we spoke to were disappointed with the accommodations because they were expecting a cruise ship experience. I got the feeling that several passengers had booked this trip not really knowing the 'product' offered by Hurtigruten and most likely left unsatisfied and disgruntled. You have to research this trip before committing to it and really understand that you are joining a working coastal service that connects small towns up the Norwegian coast and not a Norwegian cruise.

The staff and crew we encountered daily were quite delightful and all spoke excellent English. As usual, the crew really makes or breaks a travel experience and in this case they could not have been nicer.

In the stateroom we found storage to be adequate for our needs. We had one of the larger outside staterooms which are easily identified on the deck plan on the Hurtigruten website. The smaller outside staterooms might have been a little small for us so I am pleased we had a little more space. Towels were changed daily but the sheets were not changed at all during our voyage. We took our own soaps, lotions and shampoo etc. The body wash/shampoo provided was adequate but we prefer our own products. On our last night we made a short port stop (15 mins) with engines still running. Our ventilation system would draw in smells and fill the small stateroom with fumes. It was quite strong and we called to the front desk to explain and were told that it would improve once we were moving. It gave us each a headache and cause for concern as we could not easily vent out the room. It disappeared once we started moving and thankfully this only occurred once and on our last night. We really did spend a lot of time outside, all bundled up enjoying the sights, albeit in the dark mostly. The lack of sunlight was really hard to deal with for the first few days but then your body gets into the new routine. Whenever we stopped at the various ports we tried to have a walk around the local area, some stops were only 15 minutes and others several hours so our time off the ship was adjusted accordingly. The restaurant food was, at best, only cafeteria quality. We were disappointed in the food offerings especially as the buffet was pretty much the same for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We had buffet for several nights which was not what we were expecting. We only had the set menu on three evenings. For New Years Eve the buffet was the same as lunch and hardly an 'exciting' event. The hot food was usually luke warm or cooler and the buffet stations were not maintained adequately throughout the course of the meal sitting and became very messy, very quickly. We did not look forward to meal times. We enjoyed wine with every meal and found the pricing to be in line with most other ship venues. A glass of red wine was 79NOK (about $12-13). We didn't drink in the bar of an evening time, preferring to have our after dinner coffee there instead and then head outside to search for lights or take an evening stroll on deck.

Overall, a great experience. We really enjoyed ourselves and were very pleased we chose to do this trip to celebrate the New Year (which by the way was in Rorvik and the fireworks blew us away. It was a magical night and I am sure some of the guests will post videos on YouTube so please look for them).

Thanks again to all of you who gave advice and tips prior to us booking this trip. Your assistance really helped us make the decision.

Happy New Year!

Best

Ashley

Edited January 7, 2014 by goldengatecruisers

[SarniaLo]

Thank you very much for your feedback, I'm glad you had a good time and that you could see the Northern Lights!

 

Regarding the quality of the food, I feel that it has gotten slightly less good over the years, but having been on different ships I think it is also ship-dependent (or chef-dependent?). During our March 2012 trip for instance, food on MS Lofoten was much better than food on MS Vesteraalen.

 

I fully agree that it is important to know beforehand what type of "cruise" Hurtigruten is, and set your expectations accordingly. I believe also that most of the unhappy passengers are people who didn't really know where they were going.

[digitl]

The restaurant food was, at best, only cafeteria quality. We were disappointed in the food offerings especially as the buffet was pretty much the same for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We had buffet for several nights which was not what we were expecting. We only had the set menu on three evenings. For New Years Eve the buffet was the same as lunch and hardly an 'exciting' event. The hot food was usually luke warm or cooler and the buffet stations were not maintained adequately throughout the course of the meal sitting and became very messy, very quickly. We did not look forward to meal times.

 

Your observations on the food match our experiences and it's the one thing that lets the Hurtigruten offering down.

 

That the 'hot' food is cool, especially during waiter service, is not surprising considering the way it is delivered to the table. The food is placed in containers in the kitchen, the containers are loaded into heated trolleys, the heated trolleys are wheeled to the dining room, the containers are removed from the trolley and placed on the counters, food is scooped/removed from the containers on the counter and taken in smaller containers to the plates at another location on the counter where it is plated. All the time it is losing temperature and the time from the first table to be served to the last table being served was, we found, often in excess of 30 minutes.

 

Why the food cannot be plated in the kitchen and then delivered straight to tables is something of a mystery.

 

That said, overall, the experience is wonderful.

[RSF Cruiser]

Glad you enjoyed the trip. Guess the fireworks on New Years are spectacular throughout Norway. Good to know if I ever return for a New Year's trip.