Ports of Call in New Zealand—MS Statendam 7-21 January 2006

[pegasus8]

The cities and towns of New Zealand are so varied that we were constantly surprised by what the next port of call had in store for us. What a beautiful country and what nice people (also true of the Australians)!

 

The temperatures (provided below) are from the ship’s log. The weather was nearly as perfect as weather ever gets in New Zealand, so all our tours were taken under the best possible circumstances. I don’t know what impression I would have had of these ports if the weather had been rainy and cold, but I expect the experiences wouldn’t have been as positive. My comments on the weather are colored by living in Seattle, so a day with sunshine is wonderful and I tolerate cooler summer temperatures (low 70s) much better than the higher ones (upper 80s).

 

The currency mentioned below varies and the New Zealand amount is followed by “NZD” and the US by “USD.” If you want to access the Internet while in town, New Zealand often has computers available at the visitor centers, but if not, the staff at any center can direct you to an Internet café (usually about $3 NZD for 30 minutes).

 

New Zealand

Milford Sound and Dusky Sound

(Weather—partly cloudy in Milford Sound, rain and fog by the time we reached Dusky Sound). We were on deck at 7am to hear our port lecturer Ian’s commentary on Milford Sound. We were fortunate, because the sun was just rising, the colors were beautiful and the weather was perfect. Unfortunately, the rain and fog moved in soon after leaving Milford Sound, so cruising Doubtful and Dusky Sounds was not as spectacular.

 

Dunedin

(Weather—sunny to partly cloudy and windy, 72°F/20°C, evidently excellent weather for Dunedin—pronounced Doo-NEE-din). The ship docked in Port Chalmers and there was a free shuttle to this small town (we didn’t visit there). People who wanted to go into Dunedin could also ride a shuttle ($10 USD round trip). This is the one port where we elected to take a ship’s tour. We were waitlisted on the tour (Natures Wonders: Wildlife Cruise & Penguins) until we actually arrived onboard the Statendam. I expect a second group was added to accommodate the numbers of people requesting this particular tour.

 

We were up early, because our “Natures Wonders” tour departed at 8am. The group was divided into two and the first group (ours) was put onto a coach. The second group took a short walk to a dock and boarded a boat for the tour of the Royal Albatross colony. Our bus driver/tour guide explained that we would start with a tour of Dunedin and then proceed via the “low road” on the Otago Peninsula to the Marine Lab where we would have a tour. After the tour, we would catch the boat to he Royal Albatross colony. However, while stopped at the Dunedin railway station (an interesting building), the bus driver talked on his cell phone to the ship. Evidently his written itinerary didn’t match the one HAL’s tour department thought he had. The confusion continued all day (and although the other group had a HAL representative with them, we did not).

 

The drive to the Marine Lab was beautiful and the lab tour was acceptable, but we had too much time at this lab, because the boat taking us to the albatross colony was very late (better part of an hour) in arriving. We finally caught the boat and our tour of the Royal Albatross colony was spectacular because the winds were right and the birds soared above us (fairly brisk winds are needed for the heavy Albatross to be able to fly). There is also a viewing area on land, but they couldn’t have had the superb view we did. The boat was also able to get near enough to shore so that we could see some New Zealand fur seals and pups.

 

The boat returned to a dock where our coach was waiting to take us to lunch at “Natures Wonders.” Unfortunately, the timing had not been coordinated properly, so both bus loads arrived at the same time and, as usual, the other group was ahead of us. That meant that we all finished lunch about the same time, but the others got to go for their all-terrain vehicle (ATV) ride first. We “cooled our heals” with nothing to do for more than an hour.

 

The ATV ride was really worth waiting for—what a ride! The driver was very skilled, which was a good thing, because running at top speed up and down steep hills on narrow, bumpy and muddy tracks is not for the unskilled. The view at the top of the hill was amazing—a 360° view the whole area. We then descended (roller coaster fashion) to an area where we could view New Zealand fur seals and particularly their pups. The mothers had recently given birth and were sleeping in the sun, but three small pups were frolicking in a small saltwater pond. The playful interactions of the pups were fascinating to watch. We then proceeded to the area where there was a private, protected beach for the yellow-eyed penguins. Not even the owners of the beach could visit there. We spent time above the beach in a very long blind with slits for us to view the penguins. Unfortunately, we were there in the afternoon, and the penguins were out in the ocean feeding and wouldn’t return to the beach until dusk. Small doors located in the back of the blind were opened so we were able to view some sleeping blue penguins.

 

We then returned to the ship via the “high road” with lovely views over the land and sea. I should mention that warm jackets were provided for both the boat (also binoculars) and ATV rides. Although this tour was expensive ($195 USD), I don’t think that private tour operators offer a tour similar to this one and the experiences were definitely worth pursuing. However, when an extra group is added to a tour, the HAL tour department should “get their act together.”

 

Christchurch

(Weather—sunny to partly cloudy, 74°F/21°C—beautiful). The ship docked at the port of Lyttelton, so it was necessary to take a shuttle ($10 USD round trip) to town. When we arrived in town, we viewed Christ Church Cathedral and then walked along the Avon River for a long way. This was a very pleasant, picturesque walk, with public art (sculpture) and flowers everywhere, as well as punts floating down the shallow river (carrying paying passengers; see photo). After a nice lunch at an outdoor café overlooking the river, we climbed onboard a restored tram ($12.50 NZD) for a tour of the city. We stopped at an outdoor crafts show near Christ’s College (a boys’ high school) and then viewed the beautiful campus and the nearby botanic gardens. We also stopped to get information about visiting the Antarctic Centre, but the Centre was some distance out of town (near the airport) and two to three hours were recommended for a visit, so we didn’t have enough time. Christchurch was a wonderful town with friendly people and much to see.

 

Picton

(Weather—mostly sunny, 70°F/18°C—very pleasant). We docked in Picton nearly an hour late (8am) and I was somewhat concerned that we wouldn’t be able to take the local tour that I had found. We were pleasantly surprised when the citizens of this small town turned out to greet us and gave each passenger a small boutonniere/corsage of local flowers. We hurried into Picton and found the office of Dolphin Watch (in a trailer), close to the marina’s docks. I had selected a “Marine Wildlife & Motuara Island” tour ($65 NZD) that left at 9am. Fortunately, there were still spots available and we climbed onboard the fast catamaran. On the way to the bird sanctuary on Motuara Island, we saw a number of Hector’s dolphins (a very small species), as well as many marine birds. We saw some blue penguins and other birds on the island. We climbed to the top of the island (500ft to the top), although we were given the option of remaining at the “watering hole” to view birds, and found a 360° view of the Marlborough Sounds area from a viewing platform. The information provided onboard the boat was outstanding, as might be expected because the skipper/owner, Dan Engelhaupt, has a PhD in marine biology and is actively conducting research (photo identification work of dolphins) while out on the water. This tour was wonderful and in my opinion should not be missed. We returned to the town in the early afternoon (about 1pm), had lunch and then walked through town (see photo).

 

The ship offered a number of tours on the water and through the countryside, but I don’t think Picton is of sufficient size to be a primary tour destination (you might get bored after a short visit).

 

Wellington

(Weather—sunny and a bit breezy at times, 74°F/21°C—perfect). Windy Wellington did not totally live up to its name, but instead provided a very pleasant day for our visit. Again, a shuttle ($10 USD round trip) was available for the trip to town. We decided to take a walking tour of the city, starting with the cable car ride ($1.80 NZD one way—we planned to walk down) to the Kelburn terminus at the top, where the entire Wellington area could be viewed. We then followed the pathway back to the city, through the botanical gardens. Halfway down the hill, we found directions to the rose garden and a hothouse with an outstanding display of begonias, water lilies and orchids. Still following the pathway to town, we next encountered an old and interesting cemetery and spent some time wandering among the tombstones. Finally back in town, we walked in the area of the Beehive and other Parliament buildings and then headed for the waterfront. We traveled a long distance along the quay with the idea of visiting the Te Papa museum, but finally decided we were very hungry upon reaching the convention centre/art gallery area. All along the quay there was interesting public art and the entire convention centre area also had sculptures and other art (e.g., a number of palm trees sculpted from metal). We had a leisurely lunch (after having trouble locating a restaurant other than McDonalds or Burger King) and then found we didn’t have enough time (or energy) to visit the Te Papa museum. Wellington was a thoroughly enjoyable city with more than enough to do and it would have been nice to have had more time, but I always want a reason to return.

 

Napier

(Weather—partly cloudy, 77°F/23°C). The port provided a free shuttle to take us to the visitor center in town. This lovely little town was nearly completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and was rebuilt in the art deco style with strict earthquake-proof standards. A walking tour ($10 NZD), staffed by trained volunteers from the town, was a great deal of fun and provided information about art deco (see photo), art nouveau and some other architectural styles. A video shown at the end of the tour was excellent, showing photos of the town before the quake and providing close-up details of the architecture. Extra tours, leaving from the visitor center every half hour, had been scheduled to handle all the people from the cruise ship.

 

A friend, who worked with me in Seattle before emigrating in 1998 to Palmerston North in New Zealand, drove over to meet us in Napier. After the walking tour and lunch, we drove around the area to view some of the private homes and also found an overlook above the city. My friend was able to provide us with the details of how a person from a large American city adjusts to living in a smaller New Zealand city (very well indeed, because she is now a citizen of New Zealand). However, she reports that she still has “scary moments” while driving on the “wrong” side of the road.

 

Back on the ship, a couple of people reported that the ship’s tour “Cape Kidnappers Gannet Safari” was excellent. I didn’t think to ask if they also had time to tour Napier, which I believe shouldn’t be missed.

 

Tauranga

(Weather—sunny to partly cloudy, 74°F/21°C). We docked at Mount Maunganui and the town was a short distance from the ship. We were winding down by then and although there was a shuttle into Tauranga, we didn’t go (Ian said that Mount Maunganui was the nicer place to visit). We also decided against the ship’s tours, but heard later a couple of them (Glow worm caves and Rotorua) were quite good. Ian had recommended taking the path around the base of Mount Maunganui and I found this to be one of the prettier walks I have ever taken (see photo). The coastal area was rocky and spectacular with boats sailing in the beautiful weather. We took our time, taking photos all along the way. We talked to others later who had actually attempted to climb the mountain—one group got about a third of the way up and the other about halfway.

 

Auckland

(Weather—sunny to partly cloudy, temperatures in the 70s). Our final port on a wonderful vacation—we departed the Statendam around 9am, proceeded to our hotel (the Stamford Plaza—reasonably priced). After checking in, we headed back out to see the waterfront (the ship was less than two blocks from our hotel). We had lunch overlooking the water and spent the afternoon seeing local sights, such as the America’s Cup yachts that were taking paying passengers for a sail (see photo). The next morning, we took 10-minute ferry ride ($9 NZD) to Devonport (again a recommendation from Ian) to see the charming small town and “to attend” a wedding on a local park. Soon, it was time to check out of the hotel and catch the “Super Shuttle ($27 NZD for two) to the airport. One final note—after checking in at your airline, you have to go to a booth to pay the departure tax ($17.50 USD or $25 NZD).

 

As you can probably tell from my series of commentaries, this was a wonderful, hassle-free vacation. If I didn’t see everything there was to see this visit, that’s fine because I plan to return in the future. In general, if the weather is good, I prefer spending time outside seeing the various sights and if the weather takes a turn for the worse, then I spend time in museums and other indoor locations. The best part of this type of vacation is that everyone can find different activities to enjoy (to each his own!). If anyone has any specific questions after reading my reports, you are welcome to send e-mail to pegasus8-sea@hotmail.com .

[Kathyh1313]

Thanks so much for your excellent review. I have never even looked into cruises from/to Australia and New Zealand, now I will!

 

From your descriptions, the ports are lovely.

 

Thanks, I enjoyed reading your review.

 

Happy cruising, Kathy

[grannynurse]

You used a beatiful format for your review.

Thank you so much.

GN

[Druke I]

Thanks for a well-written review.

 

It brought back many fond memories of our 1st trip down under, 1-95, on the Pacific Princess (old), The Love Boat.

 

We are very taken with New Zealand, and have even talked of relocating to North Island.

[jpoelker]

We are just about decided to take the identical cruise next January. It sounds like you would clearly recommend it. Thanks

[pegasus8]

I would definitely recommend this cruise. One of the very unusual occurrences on this cruise was that, unlike other cruises I have taken, I seldom heard any complaints--and when I did it was usually mild ones about the organization of the ship's tours or some other relatively unimportant subject (mistakes in billing). I don't think that people who like to complain avoid HAL, so I have to believe that there was really little to dislike. You might say we were all a group of happy cruisers!

[Acrusa]

Thank you for that great review.We are booking the Feb.2 2007 cruise and the report you just gave was great.

[boards]

Thank you for the wonderful review, it makes our decison to take this cruise in Nov the right one. Hope it turns out as great as yours did.

[webcruise]

Thanks for the great review. We are booked for the 2006 Holiday Cruise in the opposite direction. We are excited to say the least. :D

[pegasus8]

Hi webcruise,

 

I expect you will have a wonderful cruise. If you haven't found the other parts of my review, I posted it on the Holland America boards in 3 parts (Statendam, Australia ports, New Zealand ports), because some CC members were leaving for a cruise on the Statendam with the same itinerary and they wanted me to post as much information as possible before they left. I also posted the entire review on the Australia/New Zealand boards. The itinerary is outstanding and the ship was nearly perfect, so expect an enjoyable vacation.

[stebul]

Just back from the Feb 4 Statendam Australia/NZ cruise. I'll post more details in a few days, but I would definitely agree that the passengers (and officers and crew) were thrilled to be in Australia and New Zealand.

 

I heard praises from dozens of passengers, and only one couple who was having a bad time. That couple ususally cruises on RSSC and other luxury lines, and although they admitted they were paying half the price of a cruise on RSSC, they expected that level of personal service on HAL. For example: They had an S suite, and had to ask the room steward several times to keep a supply of tonic in the mini-fridge. Everyone else I met was very happy! The food was outstanding. The ports were beautiful and enjoyable. The weather was fantastic. I even heard many compliments on ship shore excursions!

 

I was told that many of the officers, staff and crew requested assignment to Statendam because of the novelty of this itinerary.

[webcruise]

Hi Stebul and pegasus8,

Thanks again for your inputs. We have seen the fiords of Norway and Alaska and I am looking forward to New Zealand's. We will be spending several days before in Auckland and several days after the voyage in Sydney.

 

Stebel as for the people that are were not happy. People sometimes recieve in reflection the attitude they project towards people and places.

 

Peggy we are from your neck of the woods, Bend OR.

 

Any suggestions on Sydney hotels? We have the Hilton booked in Auckland.

[pegasus8]

Welcome home Steve!

 

I am happy to see that your experience on board the Statendam was very similar to ours (although I cannot recall any passengers who were serious complainers). I really look forward to seeing your comments when you get a chance to pull them together.

[pegasus8]

Hello webcruise,

 

I'm happy to "meet" another Pacific Northwesterner! I loved Sydney and could have spent much more time there because there wasn't time to tour outside the city (e.g., the blue mountains). We stayed at the Sydney Harbor Marriott that had a wonderful location in the Rocks area near the cruise dock (a "Opera House view" room was $270USD per night). The biggest problem with the view room was the tall building (offices I think) that was right in the middle of the view. We learned when we arrived at the hotel that you could have a room with a view of the Opera House or the bridge, but not both.

 

Auckland was a lovely city, with fewer attractions in the city than were found in Sydney, but I think there is probably a lot to do if you travel out of the city. We stayed at the Stamford Plaza in Auckland. The room had no view but the hotel had an excellent location very close to the cruise ship dock ($158 USD per night).

[ANSalberg]

Just a cute story about Complainers on our last cruise!!!! A 2-month cruise around the Pacific Rim from Seattle & into San Diego October/November 2005. Two brothers were seated with us for breakfast -both about 80 years old. They began a litany of complaints that we just listened to - from cold food to their room to the movies etc etc - several days later we saw them headed for our table at breakfast -and when one of them started in -I smiled brightly and said "We're REALLY having a WONDERFUL cruise -and we really aren't interested in listening to complaints" so they started complaining about PAST cruises!!!!!!

Unfortunately for many people- the height of sophistication to them IS complaining about everything. It can also be the opening for conversation rather than any really strong opinions. We just avoided them after that but smiled and spoke to them if we saw them in a Public area!

[SDHALFAN]

Peggy,

 

Thanks so much for your wonderful reviews. They brought back so many happy memories of a Holiday cruise my late husband and I took aboard the Prinsendam.

 

A couple of observations for those interested in this great cruise: The berth in Sydney has to be one of the best ever since you will be docked right across from the Opera House and will also have a great view of The Harbour Bridge from the stern of the ship. We stayed at The Sheraton on The Park, in Sydney - a really nice hotel and within strolling distance of the ship. I say "strolling" because it is a longish walk but you get to experience a lot of the vibrance that is downtown Sydney on the way to see where the ship will be berthed. On Saturdays and Sundays there is a "Market" at The Rocks (practically across from the ship) which is a lot of fun for avid shoppers and I got some really nice, inexpensive souveniers and gifts there. There is a very large Department Store, David Jones, right across from the Sheraton on the Park and underground there they have a great Food Court where you can pick up "fixins" for a picnic lunch. The Blue Mountains, although a long way out of town are well worth a visit.

 

Auckland is one of my favorite cities in the world. We have stayed at both Carlton and The Sheraton and although the Carlton is much more luxurious, the Sheraton is perfectly fine and seems to me to be closer to the downtown area. One attraction that I absolutely loved in Auckland is Kelly Tarleton's Underwater Adventure. It's kind of hard to explain but the part I remember best is being on a moving walkway (sort of like a conveyor belt - bad example I know:D ) and being surrounded by all kinds of sea life (including small sharks) in tanks above and all around you. It truly is like being underwater, without having to get wet! We teamed up with another couple and took a cab from the hotel to Kelly Tarleton's but got "adventurous" and took the local bus back instead which meant that we got to see a lot of areas that a tourist wouldn't normally see. I had to "edit" this because I just remembered that when we were in South America we paid about $70.00 apiece to "go see the penguins" - well it was a cold, wet and windy day and the penguins had enough sense to stay in their burrows. I saw waaaay more penguins at Kelly Tarleton's than I ever saw in South America - that was worth the admission price alone.

 

If you should happen to find yourself in the Mission Beach area of Auckland a great place to eat is The Crab Pot. We went there on the recommendation of a friend of mine who was born in Dunedin but raised in Auckland. The food is great (freshest fish I ever ate), inexpensive and the service is always with a smile.

 

One thing that you will find is that the Kiwis are the nicest, kindest and friendliest people in the world and they actually do like Americans. The Aussies are not too shabby either.

 

I would highly recommend this cruise to anyone. I would be doing it over and over again if it wasn't for the loooooong flight - and I live on the west coast! What can I say except that I loathe flying, but this cruise is worth putting up with the misery that airline travel has become.

 

Valerie:D

[Acrusa]

Do you know anyrthing about the ParkHyatt Sydney,or the Hilton Auckland?