Evening in Istanbul

[wisteria1019]

Our port time has changed. We are now arriving in Istanbul at 4pm, departing the next day at 1. We have a tour scheduled for the second morning, but are considering what to do on our first evening. Any suggestions for a group of four well traveled women?

[edinburgher]

what to do on our first evening

 

1) You could go for a traditional Turkish Bath, only need to check opening hours.

If you never tried one before now, it is quite the experience, and one you are unlikely to forget.

 

2) Or go for a sunset or evening Bosphoros cruise, with or without dinner, as it isn't essential to have a dinner cruise.

 

3) Head to Sultanahmet as some of the buildings there (including the  Blue Mosque) and the fountain in the square in front are illuminated in the evenings. If it isn't a prayer time, this might be a less crowded time to visit the interior of the Blue Mosque and/or Hagia Sophia, but check opening hours.

Edited April 17, 2023 by edinburgher

[cruisemom42]

It depends on what you are planning the next day, but recent info from a long-time Istanbul guide suggests that early evening can be a less crowded time to visit Haghia Sophia. It is open late (at least until 10 pm) but I wouldn’t go after it is dark, as you will miss the effect of the light streaming in through the multitude of windows.

 

It appears that the option of seeing the so-called whirling dervishes in an evening performance (a long time Istanbul staple) is also off the table at the moment according to this same guide.

 

A few years ago I researched doing one of the traditional Turkish baths, more because I wanted to see the interior of the gorgeous old buildings where two of the most famous in Sultanahmet (the oldest part of Istanbul) are located. What I discovered is that the men’s baths get the large, beautiful scenic spaces while the women’s baths are crammed into smaller, cramped and less decorated spaces.

 

What I would probably do is take the tram to Sultanahmet area and have dinner in one of the cafes along the hilly streets near the Blue Mosque; enjoy strolling before or after — as said above, the monuments are beautifully lit at night. Also (as a solo female traveler) Istanbul is very safe in the evening or on the tram. I’ve been several times and toured on my own, coming back to the ship as late as 10:00 pm.

[edinburgher]

 

What I discovered is that the men’s baths get the large, beautiful scenic spaces while the women’s baths are crammed into smaller, cramped and less decorated spaces.

 

Does this apply to every one or only some? Or only to the ones you personally visited?

 

Sorry to disagree, but although my own personal experience is limited to just the one hamam and I cannot compare the ladies and mens areas of it as separation of the the ladies and mens areas was very strictly regulated, I was perfectly comfortable in the ladies section of the one we visited in the Sultanahmet area where we were staying and did not think for one moment that it was cramped in any way as the ladies section was actually larger than I had expected.

 

We went to this one based on reviews andonline  images.  Cagaloglu Hamami.   Our only negative was the same one.  In both the ladies and the mens section, the attendants were quite pushy about asking for a tip.

Edited April 18, 2023 by edinburgher

[edinburgher]

We had both tipped our attendants, and thought we had been quite generous as we thought the attendants maybe didn't earn too much and they did a good job, but in each case they were indicating they wanted more, perhaps because we were tourists rather than locals?  I do not know.

 

Some hammans have only one area, and have specific timings for either women only or men only.

 

A hotel we stayed in elsewhere in Turkey had one, and one only, with days and times set aside for the different sexes.

[edinburgher]

 Should have also suggested what was a wonderful bakery/cafe which I l hope is still wonderful.

 

Cigdem Pastanesi on Divanyolu Cadesi so you will most likely find yourselves walking past at some point if you are in Sultanahmet day or evening.

Discovered by happy chance one afternoon, we fell into the habit of strolling to here from wherever we had dined nearby, to enjoy coffee and delicious cake to end our meal.

 

And for an inexpensive authentic lunch or snack in historic unpretentious surroundings, try Caferaga Medresesi, literally a stones throw from Haghia Sophia, in a quiet street usually a peaceful oasis far from the tourist throngs a few steps away.  And explore the little craft shops around the courtyard, as they run all sorts of traditional  craft classes and sell some of the crafts.  There is a shop and terrace at street level, although the dining courtyard is downstairs.  We discovered it on our first visit and called in twice for late lunches after longer Topkapi and the Architectural Museum visits and a third time on the day before our flight home..  The next three times we visited for overnights/two  day stays on cruise ships, we made a point of revisiting to take tea with the manager whom we got to know quite well following our several visits (he had a cousin living in England and liked a bit of chat)

Edited April 18, 2023 by edinburgher

[Milhouse]

We really enjoyed walking Istiklal Street from Taksim Square down to the Galata Tower area.  It's pretty lively in the evening with restaurants, shops, retail arcades, side streets to explore, etc.  

Point to note for transparency however is that there was a terrorist blast that killed and injured people on Istiklal late last year.  

[cruisemom42]

20 hours ago, edinburgher said:

 

What I discovered is that the men’s baths get the large, beautiful scenic spaces while the women’s baths are crammed into smaller, cramped and less decorated spaces.

 

Does this apply to every one or only some? Or only to the ones you personally visited?

 

Sorry to disagree, but although my own personal experience is limited to just the one hamam and I cannot compare the ladies and mens areas of it as separation of the the ladies and mens areas was very strictly regulated, I was perfectly comfortable in the ladies section of the one we visited in the Sultanahmet area where we were staying and did not think for one moment that it was cramped in any way as the ladies section was actually larger than I had expected.

 

We went to this one based on reviews andonline  images.  Cagaloglu Hamami.   Our only negative was the same one.  In both the ladies and the mens section, the attendants were quite pushy about asking for a tip.

I was looking primarily at the architectural masterpieces built by Sinan. I wanted to experience the grand architecture on the inside and on close questioning of the three baths I was considering, the large domed rooms with the pierced ceilings so commonly pictured were, it turned out, only for men bathers. 
 

Did you get to experience such a room at Cagaloglu baths? I am returning to Istanbul this fall twice (BTB cruises) — maybe I should research again. Things do change…

[edinburgher]

 

Did you get to experience such a room at Cagaloglu baths?

 

Sorry to disappoimnt cruisemom42, but I remember only a much larger and brighter space than I had expected, also immaculately clean,but didn't particularly notice the architecture as I was (being 100% honest here) a bit discombobulated at that point as I was (and still am!) unused to being naked in a semi-public area even if it was a woman only area!  I was way out of my comfort zone. And despite having read in advance of what to expect and the procedure, all that I had learned had mysteriously gone from my head and I was feeling like it had been a terrible idea to come in.  That soon changed though as my attendant got to work, and afterwards as I was relaxing on the heated slab, I almost fell asleep. Could not though as had arranged to meet DH at a specific time in the communal entrance area.

 

At the time, and you would need to check recent reviews, that one had one of the best reputations so we were encouraged to choose it over others, but that may have changed.  What I did like was, that there wrere a number of Turkish ladies of varying ages in there, and I thought that if locals went, then it should all be OK.  At home, where I would meet female friends for a coffee and chat together, Turkish ladies meet their friends for a bathe and a chat together.

 

Although I don't remember stunning architecture, that isn't to say it wasn't there, I maybe didn't notice(per above remarks).

 

I can say with some certainty that it wasn't bad, cramped or anything else, and I would have remembered a negative impression although I do remember the changing cabins were quite small. Perhaps your specific question about the ladies archiecture should be asked on a tripadvisor forum if you are a member, or directly to management at the hammam.

 

Do give it a try as it really was a memorable experience for us both.

Edited April 19, 2023 by edinburgher

[edinburgher]

 

 

And during one of your fall visits, do try to swing by Caferaga Medresesi, as I think you would like it and you most likely won't be far from it anyway. The menu offers only very simple food, (plus apple teas, coffees etc)but the courtyard and all the little cabins alongside where artists show their work are both historic and authentic.  They offer courses in several Turkish crafts with international students attending from a number of other countries.  The street level store has many more handicrafts for sale.

 

That info was all pre-pandemic so I don't know if things have changed.

Edited April 19, 2023 by edinburgher

[cruisemom42]

4 hours ago, edinburgher said:

 

Did you get to experience such a room at Cagaloglu baths?

 

Sorry to disappoimnt cruisemom42, but I remember only a much larger and brighter space than I had expected, also immaculately clean,but didn't particularly notice the architecture as I was (being 100% honest here) a bit discombobulated at that point as I was (and still am!) unused to being naked in a semi-public area even if it was a woman only area!  I was way out of my comfort zone. And despite having read in advance of what to expect and the procedure, all that I had learned had mysteriously gone from my head and I was feeling like it had been a terrible idea to come in.  That soon changed though as my attendant got to work, and afterwards as I was relaxing on the heated slab, I almost fell asleep. Could not though as had arranged to meet DH at a specific time in the communal entrance area.

 

At the time, and you would need to check recent reviews, that one had one of the best reputations so we were encouraged to choose it over others, but that may have changed.  What I did like was, that there wrere a number of Turkish ladies of varying ages in there, and I thought that if locals went, then it should all be OK.  At home, where I would meet female friends for a coffee and chat together, Turkish ladies meet their friends for a bathe and a chat together.

 

Although I don't remember stunning architecture, that isn't to say it wasn't there, I maybe didn't notice(per above remarks).

 

I can say with some certainty that it wasn't bad, cramped or anything else, and I would have remembered a negative impression although I do remember the changing cabins were quite small. Perhaps your specific question about the ladies archiecture should be asked on a tripadvisor forum if you are a member, or directly to management at the hammam.

 

Do give it a try as it really was a memorable experience for us both.

As I said initially, I did do quite a bit of research before, including looking up maps of the hammams I was considering, which showed the women’s baths at anywhere from about 30% to 50% of the size of the men’s sections and often carved out of later constructed spaces. Hence my comment about “cramped” — perhaps not literally, but compared with the men’s space. 
 

I will make a note to take another look at the options, but truthfully I’m not interested in the bath experience, just want to see those gorgeous spaces! 

[edinburgher]

I don't know if it would be possible for you to access any of the baths without being a client, and even then, only to the ladies section unless you were there outwith opening hours, an appointment you would need to try to arrange before your trip.

[edinburgher]

Taksim Square down to the Galata Tower area. 

 

We have also explored that area, but only on our earliest visits as there has been more than one incident in the area over the years and Taksim Square is quite often the location of protests which we would avoid in any country.

Edited April 20, 2023 by edinburgher