Med Ports - info for independent travelers - part 2

[roothy123]

Here's part 2 of my travelogue on independent travel in Portofino, Seville, Cadiz, Malaga, Nice, Marseille (Avignon), etc.

 

PORTOFINO, ITALY (May 13)

 

What a beautiful place! Yellow, orange and red houses curved around a small harbor – a delight for the eyes! After the heavy hitters of Rome and Florence, this was my kind of place – small, manageable, and VERY photogenic! I was happy to make it to Portofino, since the previous cruise did not, due to rough seas. Portofino was a tender port, and we shared the Ligurian sea with another ship – a “clipper†of some sort. Since Oceania was running “back and forth†tenders from the ship to the small dock at Portofino, Howard and I decided to go into Portofino at different times. I went with the first tender (around 8:30) and walked along the harbor. I took what I thought was the path to Castle Brown, but it ended up going nowhere! It did, however, afford me an interesting view of the Regatta from high above and a chance to try some wildflower photography. There are two ways to get to the church of San Giorgio, Castle Brown and the faro (lighthouse). The first is to climb the heart-stopping stone stairs that are marked with a small sign on the wall, somewhere past the public W/C’s. The second is to walk to the back of the square by the restaurants/shops (close to where the tenders drop you off) and look for signs to the castle. Neither path is easy to find, but that’s the beauty of Portofino – it has secrets to discover!

 

I went in the “striped church†(San Martino) and found it had some wonderful “innardsâ€. Behind the church is the road to Santa Margherita Ligure. I walked along this road, looking at the villas carved into the hillsides and marveling at the narrow, curvy road with blind alleys. Howard took the local bus to SML, but I only photographed it. There was a lot of honking as the bus approached blind alleys – with the bus getting the right of way! Just walking along the road was an experience. Howard found a wonderful pair of shoes in SML, but, foiled again, the store was closed for a long lunch break! I had planned to take the bus to SML or Camogli (or a ferry – both are supposed to be fun), but Portofino caught my attention so much that I never made it! I HIGHLY recommend going to Castle Brown, which has fabulous views of the town, the curved harbor, immaculate and beautiful villas, and terraced fields. A row of poplars along a hillside also caught my eye – so Provence-like! The tourist literature says that the castle saved Portofino from an attack by Venetian galleys in 1432. The lighthouse beyond Castle Brown (Punta de Capa) was also a “must see†for me, but would probably not be essential for most people. However, there WAS a nice view of the sea – plus a tiny outdoor café by the sea serving gelato and drinks. I was the only American there, which was nice!

 

 

NICE, FRANCE (14 Mai)

 

Nice was nice. There was an open (amazing!) tourist info center right by the pier when we left around 8:30 AM. We decided we had enough information (seemed like half a suitcase) so we kept walking. We were docked at Quai Commerce, which is pretty much “right in townâ€. We had rented a car from Budget at Quai Papacino, on the other side of the harbor – reasonably easy walk, and pretty easy to find. Budget was painless, too – no hassles about compulsory insurance and someone at the desk who spoke English much better than I spoke French! We put gas in the car (in Europe they give you the car “sans†a full tank – and then you return it the same way). Howard came back chuckling over the fact that the ratty gas station we stopped at had a fine selection of beer and wine – only in Europe!

 

Cote d’Azure – the French Riviera:

 

From Nice, you can head west to Antibes and Cannes (where the film festival was in progress) or east to Monte Carlo. Driving east, there are three roads (“cornichesâ€) – the high, the low, and the middle. We drove east along the coastal corniche to Villefranche sur Mer (photographed a small lighthouse there) but never really found the old part of town that we were looking for. We then kept heading east, hugging the coast. We saw Cap Ferrat, which is a peninsula with a lighthouse, and drove through Cap d’Ail, Cap Martin and Beaulieu sur Mer, though not in that order! Eventually we found ourselves in wild Monte Carlo. It was a big race weekend and the traffic was horrible, but we made our way down to the casino and harbor to do a little sightseeing. Saw lots of designer boutiques and nice cars. Saw the Prince’s Palace from a distance. Passed on the casino, since it didn’t open until 2. Went on a different corniche up to La Turbie, where a roman structure still stands (Trophee d’Auguste a La Turbie). In typical European fashion, the ticket office for the arch closed just as we got there and wouldn’t be reopening for 2 hours, so we were unable to get close to the arch. However, the view of Monte Carlo from the parking lot was pretty fabulous. We had lunch at a little restaurant in La Turbie before heading back to Nice. We drove into the Parc Naturel (or something like that) near the hilltop town of Eze and then visited Eze. It’s pretty touristy, with shops at every twist and turn of its medieval streets, but kind of interesting. I whipped through it pretty quickly, since I’m not much of a shopper. We came back to Nice and explored the city a bit.

 

Nice- “jewel of the Cote D’Azur†(hey, I don’t write this stuff – I just copy it!)

 

We walked along the boardwalk at Nice. I was surprised to see the Cap Ferrat lighthouse from the Promenade d’Anglais. (Nice has the Promenade d’Anglais and the Quai des Etats Unis – who says the French don’t like Americans?!) Nice’s beach is not nice – just a lot of black pebbles – couldn’t have been very comfortable for people lying on it! We went to drop the car off at Budget - and return the key to another car that Howard had mistakenly been given. (We discovered it in Monte Carlo when we went to park our car!) We were showered with a number of “merci’s†from the Budget employee when we produced the key. Guess they were pretty nervous, not knowing if they’d dropped it on the street or what! We then went back to the ship, expecting to shove off at 6, but it was delayed due to the late arrival of two people! I was happy it wasn’t us, since we’d been doing a lot of independent traveling, which can be a bit risky!

 

 

MARSEILLE, FRANCE, FRANCE (15 Mai)

 

Another beautiful, cloudless day. I finally remembered to put on suntan lotion before venturing out. (Not used to that, but the Mediterranean sun is pretty intense!) We were waffling about what to do that day. I had tentatively planned for us to take the train to Avignon, but we were getting just a little bit weary at this point, so we almost didn’t go. In the end, we went. We took the TGV, which takes 30 minutes versus the hour and 15 minutes or more on the TER. (Of course, when you take the TGV to Avignon, you have to take a shuttle from the TGV station to center city, which cuts into the time you save by opting for the nicer, faster train!) Marseille is a tough port - not the best place to be an “independent traveler.†Most people would probably prefer to just take a ship-arranged excursion rather than hassle with cabs, trains, etc. Cruise ships dock a LONG way from center city (in our case, Porte 4, near the fruits and legumes terminal!) On a map, the docks do not look to be that far from the Joliette metro station, but they are. A cab is essential for going just about anywhere. Luckily, cabs were waiting right by the pier. They are metered in France (or at least in Marseille). The trip to the Gare (train station) cost 17E for two and took about 15-20 minutes.

 

The TGV and Avignon,14th century home of the popes:

 

The TGV is a reserved train, so you need to know where to stand on the track (“voieâ€) to be able to find your seat. An electronic board shows the boarding location. In Aix, a dog boarded the train and settled in with his master under the seat across the aisle from us. His name was “CafeThe†and he was a sheltie. You have to love the French – their dogs are allowed EVERYWHERE – with no reservations required!!!

 

There are two train stations in Avignon, the new TGV station at the edge of town and the non-TGV station. There’s a blue and white shuttle (navette) that runs between the two (2E, takes about 10-15 minutes). It drops you right outside the ramparts that surround the old town. (Avignon was built between 1359 and 1370 and has almost 4.5 kms of ramparts surrounding the city.) In Avignon, we shopped (well, Howard shopped) at the flea market, and then walked to the huge Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) and the bridge over the Rhone (Pont d’Avignon or Pont Benezet). We then took the shuttle and train back to Marseille. In an adventurous mood, we decided to take the metro to Joliette and cab back from there. The “Bouganville†station (I probably spelled that wrong!) looked closer to where the ship was, so we got off there. BAD MOVE – not a terrific neighborhood, and not a cab in sight – even at the nearest cab stand! So it was back to Joliette………..

 

While coming into and going out of Marseille I looked for the Phare Sainte Marie (lighthouse), with no luck – maybe next time! However, the approach to Marseille harbor was interesting. Saw the infamous “Chateau d’Ifâ€, an island that used to house a jail. There’s a working lighthouse on the island. There were also two other lighthouses before that. From the map posted by the pool, I decided that they may have been near Cap Croisette and le Frioli, but I’ll need to do a lot more internet searching to figure that out!

 

 

MALAGA, SPAIN – Costa del Sol (17 Mayo)

 

Andalusian, Moorish sun-drenched Malaga. I loved it. Very under-rated. From Malaga, many people rush to the Alhambra in Grenada, which is supposed to be fabulous. However, it’s an hour and a half away, and then lots of walking. We decided to take it a little easier, and use the “we’ll just have to go back to Spain†routine as an excuse. We thought about renting a car and going to Gibraltar just for fun; then opted to stay in town and explore Malaga. The ship docked right in town, and there were horse and buggies, plus cabs, lined up outside. We walked to the left and found ourselves outside the gate and in the town. We walked to the Cathedral (Europe has a lot of cathedrals!) and explored the immediate area. Malaga was just waking up. Saw the Roman Theater and part of the Alcazaba . Walked around the shopping area and over the very dry river that runs through the city. Went back to the ship for lunch. Howard then went to Bruno (Concierge) to see if he could cancel our Seville hotel reservation for the next night. “All aboard†for the ship had been changed to 11:30 instead of 2:30 due to early departure of some passengers in Lisbon, and we decided we’d just bag the night in Seville. I went back out, walked across the park, and took the bus (35) to Gilbralfaro Castle. The bus went through a really pretty, upscale part of town and then wiggled its way up to the Castle high above Malaga. Gilbralfaro was awesome, including the views. Saw a town or development in the hills nearby filled with white houses (would love to know what it was), and the bullring, harbor, Regatta, and lighthouse below. Took lots of pictures. Went back to the ship, which departed at 6. Ate outside at Tapas on the Terrace. The food is not as great there, since much of it is buffet, but sitting outside is great on a nice day. Went through the Straits of Gibraltar that night, and, around 10:30, passed the Rock. It loomed in the dark on our starboard side. Tangier was on the port side – probably the closest I’ll ever get to Africa! When the ship reached the Atlantic, our silky smooth ride ended. Up to that point, I had been totally unaware of being on a ship 95% of the time, since the seas were so calm!

 

 

CADIZ, SPAIN (18 Mayo)

 

Another charming southern Spain city. Very under-rated! It is surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic, and actually has beaches and tides. From the port in Cadiz, you can take a train or a COMES bus to Seville. While the bus is faster (an hour and 20 minutes versus an hour and 40 minutes by RENFE) and the COMES station is nearby, we opted for the train. The train station is being renovated. (When you’re at the dock, look for a tall building with the RENFE logos on top (something like two blue and white check marks) and the word “Hostal†on the front. Then keep walking behind the building. It’s a 15-20 minute walk from the dock. ) We bought tickets (no validation necessary in Spain – they have real conductors that check tickets!) and got on the 9:00 train to Seville. The trains are pretty basic but functional. One car was for non-smokers and four were for smokers – proof that we were in Europe! A guy with a cart of bocadillos (sandwiches), Cervezas and drinks came through the train several times on our way to Seville. Saw several of the huge black metal bull signs that are shown on the cover of Lonely Planet’s Andalusia guide.

 

Glorious, Andalusian Seville:

 

A lot of people got off the train at a suburban station right before Santa Justa, but we wisely stayed on. Once we got to Seville, we took the C-1 bus (take “Kansas City†(smile) exit, go to your right and cross the mini-park to find the bus shelter). Got off at the river and started walking toward the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) and central Seville. Walked around looking at the wonderful Moorish architecture, and had Greek souvlaki pita sandwiches at McDonalds (I know – a travesty, but hey, it was convenient! We’re still not sure if we ate Spanish hamburger or lamb, but whatever it was, it tasted pretty good!) Passed on going into the Alcazar, even though I’m sure that would have yielded a LOT of wonderful pictures for Ruth! The highlight of Seville was the Barrio Santa Cruz – very narrow, white-washed streets, some with neat patios, flower baskets, etc. This is the oldest part of Seville, and definitely a place you could easily get lost in! Ruth broke down and spent 5 euros for a ceramic tile souvenir of the “Torre del Oro†and Howard bought a “Sevilla†tile for our good friends, the Sevillas! We walked past the Hotel Alcantara, where we had planned to spend the night. The lobby looked just like the picture on the internet, and the location was great. Maybe some other time. (We’ll just have to go back!) Saw the cultural center next door where flamenco performances are held.

 

Charming Cadiz:

 

Went back to Cadiz, where Howard found some inexpensive “Cardenal Mendoza†brandy – good for “marinating†Cuban cigars! Saw two of Oceania’s casino dealers (the Brits) in a neighborhood pub in Cadiz and chatted with them for a while. They were enjoying a much-deserved day off, since the casino was closed while the ship was in port! Went back to the ship for dinner. After a while, Ruth decided to head back out to explore those famous late Spanish nights. Cadiz seemed like a fairly tame and safe place, and it didn’t get fully dark until at least 10, so out she went! Amazing – 10:00 at night, and lots of people going here and there, coming back from dinner, etc. It was easy to get lost in the narrow, winding streets of old Cadiz – I was happy I had a map and a compass! All the narrow, winding streets seemed to eventually end at a marvelous plaza – often with a church. (There are at least 8 churches in downtown Cadiz!) At 10:30 it was just getting fully dark, so I headed up to the seawall, where I knew I could catch a bus back to the dock. Around 10:30, as I was walking along the seawall, I heard forlorn band music. Band practice was going on outside at the college – beautiful, hypnotic stuff – wonderful, mysterious Andalusian stuff! Cruisers: If you come back to the port at night, keep in mind that there’s only one entrance open – the one near the RENFE station, not the one near Plaza de Espanya! I got a little bit of a scare when I came back to the port and found the gate locked up tight!

 

Howard and I both headed out the next morning to explore Cadiz. Howard went through wonderful parks and did a little more shopping. I took a bus from Plaza de Espanya to see the lighthouse. The #2 bus gives you a wonderful round-about tour of Cadiz – goes by several forts, the beach (“Playa de la Caletaâ€) and along the seawall. If you’re a photographer, or just want to see a slice of Cadiz life, go to Playa de la Caleta in early morning to see the fishermen (and yes, they were all fishermen) primping and painting their boats on the mud flats during low tide. Behind them is the Castillo San Sebastian and the Cadiz’ tall, metal lighthouse. Castillo San Martino, which opens at 10:30, is next door. Ruth made it back to the ship 5 minutes late (bad, bad Ruth) but in plenty of time for its scheduled departure at noon. Departure was delayed a bit, however, since the tour group was late getting back.

 

An ice sculpture was being created by the pool, so we both took pictures of that, and then ate those terrific burgers by the pool as we sailed away from Cadiz on our last full day of the cruise!

 

It was almost over! That made me remember a message on the yahoo discussion board. On a previous cruise, someone was having so much fun that she was thinking of hiding under the bed on disembarkation day! Too bad they scan your card every time you go on or off the ship! Dinner that night was at Toscana. At 6:00 I went to see the close-up magic show. Another person and I were called up on the stage to assist the magician. When the magician asked the other person where she was from, she answered “Washington, DCâ€! Other than a couple from Bethesda, I had not met any other DCers on the ship before that, and it was kind of funny that he had found two of us with only an audience of about 50 to work with! Before dinner, we had someone take our picture on the staircase – our own little Titanic shot! We both passed on the nightly show in the lounge. Oceania is not known for their fabulous Broadway productions at night – although I must say that the few shows I did attend were certainly quality presentations, and I didn’t crave any more than what was offered!

 

LISBON TO WASHINGTON (May 20)

 

Everyone was up early today, since it was departure day. Our tentative departure time was 8:00. Oceania started serving breakfast at 6, and the Terrace Café was packed! There was not much to see at the port, and we didn’t get to see much of the city on our little bus trip from the port (which is south) to the airport (which is north). What we found most interesting was the Portuguese language. There is definitely a lot of French in there – along with the Spanish!

 

Our flights were uneventful but LONG. Oceania had given us 2-for-1 priced flights so we couldn’t complain too much, but they were not the greatest flights in the world! To fly to the U.S., we flew Air France to Paris (backtracking from Lisbon) and then Paris to Dulles. At least the connection in Charles de Gaulle was a little easier – this time we came into 2F and only had to get to another gate in the same terminal. Howard’s instinct to go out the exit instead of following the “Correspondence†signs proved to be the correct choice. (He IS a terrific navigator, after all, and our experience connecting from 2E to 2F made us a little wiser this time!) Ruth even had time to search for some aspirin, although that proved to be fruitless! Plenty of cigarettes (what else?!) in the little store, but no aspirin. Had to go to the Farmicia, which (of course) was closed! Got to Dulles after a long day of traveling and took a cab home. We came back to find hot, humid weather and tons of annoying but harmless cicadas, newly emerged from their 17-year old sleep! It was good to be back with Allie, but we immediately missed those tranquility beds, the enchanting ports, and the wonderful food and service that Oceania provides!

[ClaudiaF]

Great post- thanks !

 

Next stop:

Buenos Aires to Rio Oceania - "Insignia"

 

 

 

[ilovhywd]

Great report! Lots of fun to read! Thanks for taking the time to type it all up for the Board.

 

You brought back a lot of memories (both recent and not so recent)!

 

Claudia: Where would I find your trip report? I remember answering some questions for you a few months ago, and I'm curious as to what you ended up doing.

 

Ilene

[Live the good life]

Roothy, Thanks for sharing...How far by cab ride is Portofino from Livorno, and how far is cab ride from Milan to Portofino? I have stayed at the Portofino hotel in Orlando, Florida in the past, but that is just a miniature simulation of the real Portofino! We really wish we have more time in Italy to spend...Thanks, "LTGL"

[roothy123]

Sorry, I couldn't tell you how far Portofino is from Livorno. We just pulled up there on the ship and left on the ship, so I'm clueless. Funny you should mention the Portofino in Florida - when I wa researching Portofino, I kept pulling up stuff on Orlando instead of Italy!

[Moondawgie]

Thanks. Where is Part I?

 

Splendour of the Seas - Med

June 19, 2004 from Barcelona

[roothy123]

Might have to go back a little ways, but it's there somewhere in all the posts in this section (Europe). Look for a post by roothy123!

[trvlnliz]

Here's the link for part I

 

http://messages.cruisecritic.com/2/OpenTopic?a=tpc&s=927093444&f=109097554&m=660102812

[catkoe1]

great posts. thanks