Back from Amadeus Tolstoy - my impressions

[sieburgp]

Got back very late last night from our Amadeus Russian river trip. I am jet lagged but want to avoid unpacking so thought I would post here. First thanks to all of those who gave me advice.

 

I have mixed feelings about this trip. I had been on two riverboat trips in Europe - the first a 17 day trip from Budapest to Amsterdam with Amadeus in 2004 and in 2006 a trip with Grand Circle on the Main and Rhine. On these trips we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the towns, shopping, relaxing on board. The trip to Russia was completely different from these two trips I learned a lot on this trip and was glad I went. This was a much more educational trip for me than were the previous two But did not find it as relaxing as past trips

 

Although I knew the ship would not be as luxurious as what we had experienced before, I was still a little let down. The rooms were bare bones and quite small with very little storage, no telephone or television. The dining room was cramped and felt crowded - guess we were spoiled by the dining rooms on previous trips. But most disappointing to me was the fact that there was no comfortable space on boat for everyone to meet. The bar was on the small side and could not begin to seat everyone on cruise for entertainment - chairs in there were very bulky and uncomfortable. There was a meeting room on the top deck where we gathered for lectures, etc. Barely big enough to hold everyone on straight backed chairs. There were two places with televisions with BBC and CNN - unfortunately if the piano player was there, it was difficult to hear in the one room. Also there was a pool which I never saw used - it looked murky and totally uninviting to me

 

I was pleasantly surprised with the food. Yes, there were evenings that I did not particularly like the entrees but for the most part I usually was happy. I liked the fact that there were a lot of Russian food and dishes. Great soups and loved the wine! Desserts were sometimes good, sometimes not what we wanted so we ordered ice cream Our waitress Irina was very good. I am not a big eggs and meat person for breakfast - I do think they could have had a little more variety in the various rolls, pastries for breakfasts. The table settings at dinner were beautiful - different napkins, cloths etc - and the wait staff had at least four different outfits - very nice. I would give the food services on board A-.

 

We arrived in St Petersburg late afternoon and immediately had to deal with lost luggage which delayed our trip to boat. Upon arrival found we had an orientation meeting in 20 minutes at which we got way too much info for our jet lagged brains. And then less than 30 minutes later was dinner. The next day was insane. Everyone was tired but the day started early with a bus tour in to St Petersburg (a good 45 minutes on buses just to get downtown) Then went to Hermitage. Did I mention the weather was very hot (80's and 90's and high humidity the entire time) The Hermitage was so hot and croweded - could barely hear our guide. Everyone was complaining. There was no water available and several in our party were diabetic and started feeling sick. After conclusion of 2 hr tour, we were given 10 minutes in which to look in gift shop, buy water etc. Not nearly enough time. Then hauled ourselves back on the bus for 45 minute trip back to boat to eat lunch. Did not even have time to eat dessert and they were announcing city tour was boarding. Went on that which was not that great. Were given free time in areas with just souvenir vendors but never got any free time in the nicer shopping parts of St Petersburg. Then back to boat for dinner and then back downtown for ballet at Hermitage Theater - on top floor, very limited ac - you get the picture. So the first day was totally exhausting. The second day included a trip to the gardens and fountains which took more than an hour in traffic to get to. It was very hot in the house - our guide for St Petersburg was knowledgeable but not very effective - way too much historical information and she was not responsive to peoples requests. Felt as if we were herded through this area as well - took hydroplane back to boat which was enjoyable. Then went on canal ride (optional trip) that I enjoyed very much. Would have been nice to have been given some free time downtown St Petersburg but again we had none. The next day was optional trips - we went to Catherine's Palace - that was a good trip We were ready to begin our river journey

 

The first stop was awful in my estimation - stopped at this fake little town Mandrogi that was totally comprised of gift shops and other cheesy tourist attractions. The only positive here was an internet connection in the post office. Again very hot, no ac in the shops - a very disappointing day in my estimation.

 

After that stops were better. Saw several monasteries, the icon museum was wonderful. I do not have the itinerary in front of me and do not specifically recall names of all the places but suffice it to say that you will see a lot of beautiful cathedrals. I enjoyed the local tour guides perspectives and humor. I really enjoyed hearing stories about Russian life today as well as references to the Soviet years. I did come away from this trip knowing much more about the 20th century happenings in Russia and realizing how much the people suffered under Stalin, etc. I was surprised on many days but how little time we spent in various ports - often less than 3 hrs a day. I thought we would have more free time in which to explore the various towns but our free time was limited.

 

I was most pleased with the on ship lectures by a professor at a Russian university. She was wonderful, very enthusiastic, knowledgeable and funny. She spoke either four or five times, about Russian history, life today, life under Communisim, educational and womens issues. I learned a lot from her and would highly recommend attending her events.

 

Almost all of the college students who worked on the ship were wonderful - very nice and were eager to help passengers with their questions, etc. Also the ship was very clean - no complaints with that at all

 

Most of the passengers were at least middle aged with a number of people in their 80's and even one man who was 95. There was some walking on uneven surfaces and lots of stairs, etc but nothing that most seemed to find too strenuous. Some people did tend to change clothes for dinner but there were many who went to dinner in capris and casual shirts. Very few men wore jackets and ties even to the dressy nights.

 

This post is jumping all over but just realized I did not write about Moscow - I really enjoyed our time there. Again much traveling time to the city center but at least there was lot to see on the way there plus we had a great guide. I loved seeing Red Square and also the Armory. We did not do any optionals but I heard many positive reports about the Folk Show and many went to the circus - we had to leave the ship at 2:30 am for our flight so I did not hear any reports about the circus

 

One of the recommendations that I made in my evaluation was to add internet access to ship or at least information as to where to find internet cafes in stops. I felt out of touch. I also would have appreciated a short weather forecast for the next day. I did not realize until day 3 that we had radio access in our cabin - at least part of the time BBC was available on that. But no one even told us about that.

 

If I were to do this again, I might go with one of the cruise companies that spends three nights in hotels in both Moscow and St Petersburg - I know Grand Circle does that.

 

I came back with money - did not see a lot that I wanted to get other than the obligatory piece of amber and some linen tea towels. I thought the shopping was the best in Uglich - all the standard tourist fare that was available other places but the stalls here were not crowded, not high pressure, good prices and a lot of variety. I was impressed by the various linen tablecloths, sweaters etc available in Kostroma (I think) and also in Uglich - high quality and good prices. I think a few vendors took credit cards but mostly cash. Also just a warning - no one seems to take American Express - one lady on our tour was unable to use it anywhere. And just a hint - if you plan on using your Mastercard or Visa it is a good idea to call issuing bank and advise them you will be in Russia - there were several who did not do this that found their accounts frozen after the first use.

 

I am happy to answer any questions. I am glad I went and I did learn a lot. I hope this post does not sound all negative because it was not intended to be that way. But we were disappointed in the ship, its facilities and the limited amount of free time. But very happy with the ship staff and crew, most of the local guides, on board programming and the food.

 

Pam

[Buckland]

Hi Pam,

Thanks for the review. There are six of us planning to take the same cruise in September next year. Regardless of the short commings, we expect to have a good time. We realize that Russia is not the US or Canada - after all, that's why we are going. We certainly haven't heard anything that will discourage us or make us change our minds.

 

Buck

[Coral]

Hi Pam,

 

Thanks for your review.

 

With the exception that I found the food awful on our sailing (most people on our sailing did not enjoy the food) - I found our views on the rest of the trip almost identical. I really wonder if they did improve the food. I do agree that the presentation was nice and that the dining room was very crowded chair wise.

 

I agree about Mandrogi - it reminded me of Pioneer Village - a made up fake town. I was glad to use Internet there.

 

I agree about the long drives into St. Petersburg. It seemed like a waste of time IMO. I wish I had just stayed in town on the first day but it would have been difficult the next 2 days due to visiting Peterhoff and Catherine's Palace. I would also seek out hotel stays on the next trip. I had done that on my previous trip and that is definitely preferable.

 

I also agree about not having any free time. I also enjoyed shopping in Uglich as there was no pressure, it was safe to walk around (no pick pocketing) and the people there were genuinelly friendly. Though, we were only given 20 minutes from the time we left the church to get back to the ship and the walk was about 15 minutes. So there was little time for shopping there for us.

 

I had no idea there was a radio in the cabin. You did well if you found it on Day 3 as I never found it.

 

I wasn't disappointed in the ship partially because I had seen a video showing the ship several months before I left. So I sort of new what I was getting into.

 

Our Folkshow/Circus was the first night and the second night in Moscow was Moscow by night. I got back to the ship at 11:30 pm from the Moscow by Night tour and then left the ship also at 2:15ish (am) to catch my flight. Most on our tour liked the Folkshow and Circus. Many commented about the cats at the circus (as in household cats I think). I really wish our nights were reversed.

 

Theresa

[g2-jet]

Where did you buy your piece of amber on your Russia rivercruise? Did they sell this in Uglich at the tables?

[g2-jet]

Could you please tell me where you bought your piece of amber on the Russian River cruise? Was there any amber at the tables going back to the ship from Uglich?