John and Diane's Amazing Round the World Aventure

[jimbug]

John and Diane,

 

I am absolutely riveted by the story of your journey. I truly feel that I am experiencing it right there with you both! Thank you so much for sharing this with our CruiseCritic community!

[Johnny B]

March 13, 2008 – Delhi to Agra

 

SENSORY OVERLOAD! That’s what India is – there’s just too much and too different to take in within a few days. We’re just overwhelmed by the sights, the people, the colors, the smells, the food – the everything!

 

We began a tour of Delhi, old and new, this morning. We drove by the Red Fort, built in 1638 and watched bicycle rickshaws transporting people around town. We visited, without our shoes, the largest mosque in India and were the only non-Indians there. In fact, we were so different that people wanted to take our picture. Then we proceeded to Qutub Minar, built from sandstone in 1192, and it’s in pretty good condition. It was a Muslim place of worship built around an iron pillar from the 6th century. There was even a carved stone version of the Kama Sutra high up on one wall; apparently newly married couples came to visit it for “instruction.”

 

The parts of New Delhi we saw were not what I expected. It was more modern, more affluent, had more freeways and large impressive buildings. But when we drove through Old Delhi, only the morning fog seemed to soften the edges of poverty. People still struggle through a hard life, and while the government does what it can to help, it’s difficult to help all 1.2 billion people.

 

The people of India whom we’ve met thus far seem to be extremely kind and gentle sorts. Like the Cambodians, they use a gesture with palms together in front of the chest to say hello, goodbye, or thank you (you did just try it, didn’t you?) We had an interesting discussion with two different guides about arranged marriages. The 21-year old said that his parents want him to become secure in his career and then he may choose someone he loves to marry. The 34-year-old told us of his one-year-old arranged marriage and how happy it has made him, and then he talked proudly about his 2-month-old daughter.

 

As we drove out of Delhi toward Agra, poverty raised its ugly head again. We passed an area of huts made with clay bricks and a cloth door, with women surrounding the ever-present village water well. One shack near the front had, painted across the front in large letters, “Welcome to my India.” Cows wandered alongside the highway and down the middle divider. So, to the music of the car horn symphony, we left Delhi, to find that the highway vehicle mix now included tractors, carts pulled by water buffalo, and even the odd camel. Alongside the road were stacks and stacks of dried cow patties used as fuel for cooking fires, looking for all the world like nice arrangements of chocolate pastilles. Driving in India should be an Olympic sport; I wouldn’t do it in a million years. Our driver told us that you only need three things to drive successfully in India: good brakes, good horn, and good luck

 

Remember the old “stuff the Volkswagen” game in the 60’s? (If not, you may feel free to skip this section). Well, we saw it over and over today with tuk-tuks. Remember, these are basically motorcycles with added covers and two narrow seats facing one another. I began counting people in them and was shocked when I saw 12, but the further away from the city we were, the higher the numbers went. I gave up when I was sure there were 20 in a tuk-tuk; I think they win the new VW Bug.

 

When we got truly out into the rural areas, there were acres and acres of wheat and then herds of camels which are used to pull carts and to ride. I knew I’d see cows, elephants and monkeys, but I didn’t expect camels until Egypt. The sacred cows seemed to hang out in the small villages along the way, lying about wherever they pleased and eating from piles of garbage. There were dozens in front of shops, and I watched one man take a giant step over a camel to go inside.

 

Midafternoon we arrived in Agra and checked into the most wonderful hotel I’ve ever seen. I know, I know, I’ve said that before, but it just gets better and better. This is the Amarvilas, another Oberoi hotel, and it was voted by Travel and Leisure the 6th best hotel in the world. I’m convinced that the only reason we can stay in places like this is that we booked an all-inclusive tour with an Indian travel agent referred to us by the Indian Tourist Board in New York. They must get really, really good rates, because we’re paying just about 1/3 for our 5-day, 4-night tour in the same hotels as the HAL shore excursion. Our tour doesn’t include lunch or dinner, but boy can we eat a lot for what we’re saving.

 

Our new guide greeted us and we took the hotel’s electric vehicle (no polluting) to the Taj Mahal. It was so breathtaking in person that I couldn’t talk for a few minutes and the old tears threatened to ruin the makeup. It is absolutely spectacular, looking even better than the wonderful pictures that professionals take of it. It is only one part of an enormous complex, but as soon as it comes into view the mouth just drops open. The white marble almost glows. If you’ve been here, you know what I mean, and if you haven’t been here, be sure to put it on your list. and I just wondered why all those people wouldn’t get out of my way so I could take pristine photos.

 

Tomorrow we’re off to Jaipur, the Red Fort, and our first elephant ride. Boy, am I excited!

[Rebecca33]

Wow! Another excellent experience.... And you are right I did try it !!! Then laughed out loud when I read that you knew we would....lol

 

Continued safe travels....

[FloridaLaura]

Wow! Another excellent experience.... And you are right I did try it !!! Then laughed out loud when I read that you knew we would....lol

 

Continued safe travels....

Me too :p

[cruznon]

John and Diane,

Thank you so much for your wonderful journal of this spectacular cruise. Your vivid writing has repeatedly transported me to exotic locales .

I came home from school today and got to "visit" Viet Nam. Cambodia, and India!

Thank You for sharing...I look forward to your future entries!

[cands]

Wow! Another excellent experience.... And you are right I did try it !!! Then laughed out loud when I read that you knew we would....lol

 

Continued safe travels....

 

ditto!:)

[GranysT]

Diane and John,Wow. I just discovered this wonderful thread last night, at 3 am, I reluctantly had to go to bed. Tonight I have finally caught up to the rest of it.

 

An actual cruise like this, is one I wouldn't be able to afford in a million years.But reading your wonderful postings, is truly the next best thing to it.

 

Thanks so very much for giving us this small glimpse of your marvelous trip.

 

I can't wait to read on, and just want to say More Please.

[Johnny B]

March 14 – Agra to Jaipur

 

We woke up and looked out our window to the Taj Mahal. I did forget that little detail, didn’t I? Every room at the Amarvilas Hotel has a view of the Taj, which is 600 yards away.

 

We headed off to Agra Fort, another World Heritage Site (we seem to be collecting those like Green Stamps – remember those?). It was built by Shah Jahan’s (the Taj Mahal guy) grandfather in 1637. Shah Jahan was overthrown by his third son and lived the last six years of his life in prison, or house arrest there. It was the kind of place you wouldn’t mind living in – unless you couldn’t go out. According to the guide, he died on the balcony of his living area while looking across the river to his favorite wife’s tomb (the Taj).

 

We left Agra and continued toward Jaipur, stopping at Fateh Sikri, a 16th century fort/palace bigger than the Red Fort in Agra. Apparently the poor guy had only daughters (oh no!) so he went to a holy man who blessed him, resulting in the birth of three sons. In thanks, he built Fateh Sikri. (At least I think that’s how the story goes).

 

As we continued on toward Jaipur, we talked about the fact that we don’t think about India having open spaces, but there are miles and miles of wheat fields and even some mustard fields on our way. As we entered Rajahstan we noticed that the terrain became drier and hillier, looking like parts of California at times (I know, I couldn’t believe it either). This is definitely farmland; we saw dozens of camels pulling carts, the cows continued in large numbers, and we had to stop several times to let shepherds lead flocks across the highway. Two women were dipping their bucket down a well for water; they didn’t even have a pump. This part of India seems as far from young, energetic New Delhi as the moon.

 

We’ve been spending so much time on the way from one place to another that we notice a great deal about the driving. The main problem is the huge variety of vehicles fighting for space: cars, tractors carrying farm goods or people, tuk-tuks, bicycles (plain and bicycle rickshaws), buses (filled inside, outside, and usually with about 20 people on top), and huge cards, each pulled by a single camel and overladen with enormous canvas bags of harvested wheat or great bunches of sticks being taken somewhere as cooking fuel (we all can’t be lucky enough to get those cow patties). We even saw our first elephant, pulling a farm cart. All this would be bad enough, but occasionally there are camel carts, tractors, or even cars coming down the wrong side of the highway. Then, in the middle of it, 2 or 3 cows decide to cross the road and we just sit. As you can see, we’re still fascinated by Indian traffic. Our driver is a master at his job. He just seems to know how to avoid any problems as well as giving us information as we drive along. I don’t know what we’d do without him.

 

We arrived in Jaipur late this afternoon and checked into yet another piece of heaven. Rather than the 5 stories of the Agra hotel, this one is single story, spread out over 33 acres. In the center of the “campus” is a Hindu temple that’s been here for over 200 years. The rooms are quite wonderful; our bathroom has a marble step-down bathtub that’s about 2 feet deep and 6 feet long. Next to the tub is a window overlooking our own private garden. It is just too incredible for words. Every employee (and there are lots of them) greets guests with that palms-together gesture (I knew you’d try it!) and is extremely friendly and soft-spoken. They can’t do enough to make sure we’re happy with our stay here.

 

Since it was still warm when we got here, we changed and headed to the pool for a swim. On the way home (well, sort of), we popped our heads into the little temple and were invited in by the resident priest. He sang, we were given handsful of rose petals to scatter over the shrine to Shiva, and we left after getting lovely red dots between our eyes to show that we had worshipped Shiva (well, sort of).

 

Dinner was in a lovely courtyard under the stars, accompanied by Indian musicians playing traditional tunes. The hotel manager stopped by our table to ask how everything was, since he didn’t get to personally greet us when we checked in. Now that’s service.

 

Tomorrow is elephant and cobra day – we can hardly wait!

[candbgirl]

This just gets better and better. Thank you again. :)

[TheDMan]

I can't wait to hear about Elephant and Cobra day!!!

[FloridaLaura]

I can not even imagine how to start planning this cruise. I have spent weeks figuring out plans for our 7 day eastern caribbean cruise (in which I have done once before anyway). We are in the planning stages for our Med cruise in 2009 I am overwhelmed already :) ) Kudo's to you for all of the planning and researching! The hotels you have choosen seem just wonderful!

[las313]

For taking us along on your wonderful, wonderful adventure. A question - what does the ship do when you are off on land cruises? Do you just pick it up at another port?

Keep up the reports so we can travel along.

PS. We leave on the Maasdam in the morning for 10 days.

Louise in FLA

[Johnny B]

March 15 – Jaipur

 

Rule #1 – Avoid sitting on a galloping elephant.

Rule #2 – Stay well back from a swaying, hooded cobra.

Following rule 2 wasn’t hard, since I was shaking in my sandals, but we didn’t know that our elephant liked to gallop.

 

Our driver and guide called for us at 8:00 and we drove through Jaipur, stopping to take photos of Hawa Mahal, or “The Palace of Winds.” This was a screened royal grandstand for royal women. We learned that, until the 11th century, women in India were treated more fairly, although not equally, being allowed to go out, own property, and marry again if their husband died. However, then the Mughals, who were Muslim, came, and the Indians adopted Islamic rules about women. Until the 20th century, upper class women were not allowed to go outside the house – at all - and they could not be seen by any men except their husband or eunuchs. Then, of course, if their husbands died before them, they were required to perform suttee, being burned on the husband’s funeral pyre. Thank you, Gloria Steinem!

 

We continued on to the Amber Fort Palace, where we had our elephant ride. People kept in an orderly half-hour line awaiting their elephant, but then at the last minute two girls jumped the queue and got “our” elephant. Boy, were they sorry! Our elephant just hauled . . . well, he wanted to be #1 elephant, so he passed everyone. We sat on the howdah (that’s that thing you ride on), swaying back and forth a lot more than I had expected. It was definitely the “E” ride of the trip. When he decided to be a Formula 1 racer, though, it really got fun. We had to hold on to the metal frame with both hands and could do nothing other than laugh. I really, really didn’t want to fall off – elephant feet are really heavy. You may have been able to figure that out on your own.

 

After seeing the Amber Palace (which is part of the fort), we began our walk down the hill (elephant rides are only one way). I was looking down, watching out for elephant poop when I looked up and saw, just a few feet away, a man sitting behind a basket and playing a flute. I just stood there paralyzed, knowing what was going to come up out of that basket, and sure enough, 5 seconds later, here came Mr. Cobra, hood extended, just swaying back and forth. I wanted to back up but I was afraid to move, so as long as I was standing there, I grabbed my camera and this was the exact time it decided that its batteries were dead. I could have screamed (but then I’d get the cobra’s attention – no thank you).

 

We gave Mr. Cobra a wide berth and then continued down the hill, driving back into Jaipur to see the City Palace and Jantar Mantar, an outdoor observatory which was built 275 years ago and takes up almost an entire city block. It is incredible. First of all, the structures look like they were designed by a 21st century architect, but they’re all original. They also have the world’s largest sundial which tells the time to the closest 2 seconds – amazing, what? It’s even in the Guiness Book of World Records. We were fascinated.

 

After lunch downtown (why does curry stain like that? And why did I wear a white shirt?), we got back to the hotel about 2:00 and it’s just going to be pool time for the rest of the day. This hotel is extraordinary, and we want to take full advantage of it.

 

Tomorrow our driver is picking us up at 9:00 and we’re off on a 5-hour drive through camels, tuk-tuks, and every other possible means of transportation to Delhi, arriving in time for our afternoon flight to Mumbai (Bombay) to rejoin the ship. I guess we could have insisted on a flight directly from Jaipur to Mumbai, but who’d want to miss five hours of excitement on Indian highways?

[carolyn22]

I just found your trip report this morning, and have just spent 2 hours reading it. All I can say is "WOW!" I doubt if I ever get to take a GWV, so it's lovely being able to live vicariously through you!

 

Keep up the wonderful reports! By the way, how is your original wine supply holding up?

[RuthC]

A cobra? Up close and personal? I might have had a heart attack.:eek:

[Aussie Gal]

Johnny and Diane,

 

We will be in India next month as we are cruising from Hong Kong to Athens and we also will be spending time away from the ship to visit Agra like yourselves. You have whetted our appetites so much with your wonderful descriptions.

 

We are starting to get excited as we leave home in less than 3 weeks and you travels since Hong Kong are similar to what we will be experiencing.

 

Keep up the wonderful posts, I look for them each day.

 

Jennie

[NancyB84]

Just wanted to say, THANK YOU for taking the time on your vacation to post here. I just caught up to present day.... and look forward to the remaining posts from you. It has been wonderful reading about your adventures.

[Johnny B]

March 17 – Day 73

 

We thought that five days in the “Golden Triangle” showed us all about India, but then we arrived in Mumbai, formerly Bombay, and found out we knew nothing.

 

We had a busy travel day, spending five hours to drive from Jaipur to Delhi so that we could fly two hours to Mumbai, even though there are regular flights from Jaipur to Mumbai – go figure. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a nice young man with a car. Unfortunately, he didn’t speak English and he didn’t know where we were supposed to be taken. That gave us a little entertainment until we got to talk to his boss on the cell phone and things got straightened out.

 

Driving through Mumbai was a cultural adventure; with about 20 million people, there were bodies everywhere. They covered sidewalks and spilled out onto the streets. The streets were awash with cars, and it was about a hour’s drive from the airport to the ship. It was about 7:00 and dark, and the thought went through my head that if I had the amount collected in electrical bills for one day in Mumbai, I could buy the whole darned ship!

 

Talk about a good night’s sleep! When I finally looked at the clock it was 7:15 this morning, and we talked ourselves into getting back into the gym for a half hour or so. We had arranged with Gene and Shirley to share a taxi for a couple hours of sightseeing, so we headed off the ship to find a taxi – not a difficult job in Mumbai. We were found by Jimmy, a taxi driver recommended by some friends. We negotiated with him for a 2-3 hour drive around town.

 

We saw The Gateway of India, a Jain Temple, The Hanging Gardens, Ghandi’s House (and museum), and the laundry. The laundry is something you’ll not see anywhere else in the world. It’s off a major road, and is at basement level (but open to the air). The area covers several acres, and it’s divided into (we are told) 500 stalls, each with concrete dividers about 2 feet tall. Each stall is probably 10 x 10 feet and occupied by a man with a piece of laundry in hand, banging it for all it’s worth against the concrete post in the middle of the stall. Apparently thousands and thousands of people send their laundry here, including some hotels. It was amazing.

 

After some lunch at the ship, John and I headed out for a walk to the post office, which turned into a cultural experience. We had a “care package” to send to the kids, and we expected to walk into the post office, buy a big padded envelope, and send it on its way. That’s not the way it’s done in Bombay. We were greeted by a young man who took us across the street from the post office. I thought it was a scam, but the man from the post office told us that this is how parcels are done. He took our items, wrapped them in sheets of a (Hindi) newspaper and taped the heck out of it. Then he took a piece of unbleached muslin (I think that’s what that is), wrapped it around the newspaper, and with a huge needle and thick thread, began sewing up the whole package. He had quite the neat stitches and soon had a tidy little stitched-up package. After we added address and return, he began melting sealing wax, which he put in several places over the stitching and marked them with a seal.

 

When we returned to the post office, he weighed it and it turned out that we were about 200 rupees short, so he led us on an adventure through several streets to an ATM, where we took about $5.00 out of an ATM. The whole process was fascinating, and we can hardly wait to see if it gets there in the same condition it left.

 

Finally, we’re back at the ship to stay, feet up and Diet Coke open. We sail tonight at 11:00, and I’m not sure if we’ll still be awake for it or not. This travel stuff is exhausting!

[RuthC]

This travel stuff is exhausting!

Ain't it the truth.

You've reminded me of a comment I heard nearing the end of one of my longer cruises. The woman was remarking she was happy that the next day was the last time we'd have to leave the ship and "appreciate something".

[piper28]

After some lunch at the ship, John and I headed out for a walk to the post office, which turned into a cultural experience. We had a “care package” to send to the kids, and we expected to walk into the post office, buy a big padded envelope, and send it on its way. That’s not the way it’s done in Bombay. We were greeted by a young man who took us across the street from the post office. I thought it was a scam, but the man from the post office told us that this is how parcels are done. He took our items, wrapped them in sheets of a (Hindi) newspaper and taped the heck out of it. Then he took a piece of unbleached muslin (I think that’s what that is), wrapped it around the newspaper, and with a huge needle and thick thread, began sewing up the whole package. He had quite the neat stitches and soon had a tidy little stitched-up package. After we added address and return, he began melting sealing wax, which he put in several places over the stitching and marked them with a seal.

 

My sister-in-law sent my wife something from india a while back (part of me wants to say it was a backgammon set), and this is basically how it was packaged. Was definitely different to get a package like that when you're not expecting it.

[GranysT]

Diane, where are you off to next? Can't wait to read about it.

[Johnny B]

March 18—the Arabian Sea

 

Reflections on India from John.

 

“Apocalypse Now” is how one of our traveling companions described his reactions to the skies over New Delhi, and I, heartily agreeing, would add Agra and Mumbai. One could see stars in the sky in Jaipur, but the air over the other cities, especially at sunset, was eerily gray and had a doomsday feel to it. The rapid industrialization has unfortunately been accompanied by much pollution.

 

How to assess India after a seven day visit is obviously impossible. Just think of a visitor to the US landing in LA, flying next to Dallas, and then concluding with a three hour tour of NYC—is that an accurate view of the US? Hardly. So, our impressions and reactions to India are obviously based on a very fleeting visit, but here are some of my observations. Simply take them for what they are worth.

 

Having heard from one of our guides and then reading an editorial in an Indian newspaper that four of the ten richest men in the world are Indian, one wonders when the trickle down effect is going to take place because, according to Indian newspapers, 70% of the Indians still live in poverty. There is indeed a strong middle class in India, but unfortunately for the visitor who arrives at a major airport or seaport, he tends to see the worst along the highways into the city. (Think of the areas around transportation centers in the US—not always in the nicest part of town—and then magnify it 10 fold.) Another newspaper article I read discussed a suburb of Mumbai about two hours from downtown where many of the prosperous Indians live, but we, as visitors ,did not get to witness that part of India which I’m sure would have given us an additional insight into this incredible nation.

 

As Diane has stated, driving in India is indeed a trip! On the approach to the airport in New Delhi which is surrounded by many multinational corporations, high rise apartments, and name brand hotels, one still sees people living adjacent to the roads in abject conditions and cows still are to be seen on the underpasses. While driving through the countryside, I could not take my eyes off the surroundings, the traffic, and the mass of humanity—I was just intrigued beyond words, or maybe I just wanted to be awake when we finally had that accident. Periodically I would look at Diane and she would have her dark glasses on feigning sleep but really taking a breather from all the stimulation surrounding us.

 

As indicated, we always read Indian newspapers to get some insight to life here. One of the most fascinating pages was the matrimonial one where one advertises for a marriage partner. It’s broken down in multiple ways: professions, education, religion, and caste—yes the caste system sill exists, especially in the rural areas. But, Indians seem to be just like everyone else in the world in what they want in a mate: eautiful/handsome/tall/well-educated, etc. were the words most often used in the ads.

 

There are many, many more perceptions gained in our brief visit, but I’ll sum it up with one final observation. While touring, walking, shopping, avoiding hawkers or beggars, we NEVER had a moment of fear or anti-American sentiment. My arm was grabbed more than once, generally by a teenager who just wanted to say “Hello.” We were frequently asked where we came from, and our response of California was met with smiles and even a high five. So all in all, we had a wonderful visit, which we are still digesting—and my former Indian students are going to be bombarded with a million questions when we return. Just a warning, you guys.

[rustermans]

Hi John and Diane

Now that you are back at sea [next port Oman], it seems appropriate to reprise your earlier Masefield quote...

 

I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,

And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,

And the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking,

And a grey mist on the sea's face and a grey dawn breaking.

 

I must go down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,

To the gull's way and the whale's way where the wind's like a whetted knife;

And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover,

And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick's over.

[Saga Ruby]

March 17 – Day 73 - We were found by Jimmy, a taxi driver recommended by some friends. We negotiated with him for a 2-3 hour drive around town.

 

You indicated that you had been referred to a taxi driver named "Jimmy." By any chance was he a tall, bilingual driver who lived 2 hours out of Mumbai and came into town on the train? Were you driving around in a tiny, black-and-yellow Fiat cab? Did he take you to a jeweler’s shop? Through a kismet moment, I had "Jimmy" in Mumbai. We toured the city and slums for 5 hours and had lunch at Excellensea, a superb local fish restaurant.

 

Jimmy and his wife have a large, old home outside of Mumbai where they rear foster children who are blind. He told a story of how difficult it was to take some of the children fishing! I’m sure he and his wife get some kind of government stipend to assist them.

 

As I was saying farewell at the Green Gate, Jimmy said that the next time I come to Mumbai, he wanted me to "come home with me to meet my wife and family." I was truly touched. Jimmy is an excellent guide and I was lucky to have him.

 

By the bye, I’ll give the global air pollution award to in any major city in China although India, Bangkok, or Cairo are close runners-up.

 

Ruby

[FrogCWR]

 

By the bye, I’ll give the global air pollution award to in any major city in China although India, Bangkok, or Cairo are close runners-up.

 

Ruby

 

I must agree. I saw footage on MSNBC with the new Olympic stadiums and you could barely see them through all the haze. :eek: Really awful to think about such a mess like that. I love living smack dab in the middle of the US with clean open air all around me.

 

J&D... really enjoy reading your blogs. Thank you so much for investing the time to write it all out so beautifully for us all to read.