Live from Rio Carnaval aboard Azamara Journey!

[melissa@cruisecritic]

Cruise Critic contributor Steve Faber is currently onboard Azamara Cruises' Azamara Journey en route to Rio de Janeiro for Carnaval -- one of the hottest parties in the world!

 

Rio Carnaval 2008 starts on Saturday, February 2, and ends on Fat Tuesday, February 5. Faber will be posting live "blog" reports and photos on this thread Sunday and Monday, the two biggest days of the celebration.

 

He'll also be on hand to answer YOUR questions about Carnaval, as well as the ship and the other ports of call on his South America itinerary: Buenos Aires, Punta del Este, Sao Paulo and Montevideo (remember, we cannot answer questions about specific cabins).

 

Please post below, and come back daily to celebrate Carnaval with us! Then stay tuned for a full virtual cruise, kicking off on Friday, February 8.

[CrewzCrazee]

Hey Steve, I've been to Rio myself and found it to be a city with a ton of energy even when it's not Carnaval time. I was wondering (once the partying starts) if you can give me some idea of what the atmosphere is like there during the celebration. I'd love to be there myself, but since I can't maybe you can paint me a picture. The colors, the costumes, the scenery (especially of the female variety) -- I bet it's amazing. I'd also be curious to hear what you think about Portugeuse once you start trying to communicate with the cariocas (the locals). Me and my friends called it "the language with no consonants" when we were down there. Very hard to speak, and almost impossible to understand. Good luck! :D

Oh, and have some steak for me, brother! Those restaurants are amazing -- a carnivore's utopia!

[stormchaserinnj]

Hi Steve, how does Rio Carnaval compare to Mardis Gras, if you've been there?

[SuziClue]

We're interested in visiting Rio by cruise ship -- and wonder if any of the Azamara tours focus on Carnival -- or if there's anything otherwise really exotic and interesting available (have been to Rio before and done the standard stuff).

 

Suzi

[CrewzCrazee]

I almost forgot, Steve. When it comes to giving us all an idea of what the gorgeous ladies of Rio look like, I have just one word for you: PHOTOS!

Keep 'em coming and don't be afraid to get up close. I'm sure they won't bite.

[marko711]

We will be there in 2009 and the cruiseline wants $1200 per person for tickets and transporation. I can get good tickets for under $200.

[ehogan]

We are also going to Rio for the 2009 Carnivaal - I am concerned about safety - we are trying to choose between a cruise sponsored tour to Carnival or going on our own.

 

Alternatively, since our ship is in port for three days, are there other areas in Rio or a short distance away that we could see - we would also consider an out of town trip (maybe an overnight) to an interesting area outside of Rio.

 

Thanks

[seatravel]

Greetings from Rio de Janeiro. I wish I could paint a picture for you of the magnificent entry into Rio’s harbor in Guanabana Bay; I’m told it’s among the most spectacular port entries in all of cruising. Unfortunately, we have been dogged with bad weather this entire voyage. Yesterday when we arrived, though we were spared rain for the moment, Rio was blanketed in haze and fog and the mountaintops were all but lost in the muck. When there was a moment of partial clarity I thought I saw the famous statue of Christ the Redeemer atop one of the hills. When we got closer I saw it was a cell tower!

 

Rio is a city of contrasts, beginning with the ring of verdant green mountains bracketing the bay, and the city itself sandwiched in between. There is much abject poverty and rickety tin shanties contrasted with the sparkling high-rises and tony shops along Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. Yesterday, during a break in the weather, I grabbed a taxi to the legendary Copacabana Palace hotel, for a light lunch along the strand. The broad, graceful, well-maintained Av. Atlantica, with its beautiful wide mosaic sidewalks, separates those high-rise hotels and apartment buildings from the beach. To me Copacabana seems like New York’s Park Avenue, the French Riviera and Miami Beach rolled all into one. Even though the sun had only been out for a couple of hours, especially because it was Saturday, and more especially because it was the start of Carnaval, the beach was crowded with hundreds of attractive Cariocas (Rio residents), from whose swimsuits’ aggregate amount of fabric it might be possible to construct a single quilt. Sorry, CrewzCrazee, no photos, and I’ll explain why because it carries a good piece of advice for Americans traveling to South America. We have been instructed time and again not to flash jewelry or expensive gadgets to avoid getting them snatched. The advice on cameras was to take a picture and immediately drop the camera in pocket or purse. Since I use a big, professional, digital SLR, that’s a physical impossibility. My advice for others who think that when it comes to cameras, size does matter, is to also bring a pocket-sized digital to take to places or situations where it’s more appropriate.

 

But never fear, the Sambadrome (where all the nighttime parades take place) is considered to be perfectly safe, so I plan to shoot plenty of pictures tonight. Which brings me to an overview of Carnaval. As I’m sure many of you know, Carnaval is the annual last big blowout before Lent, a period where Catholics are required to give up various things for a period of 40 days. Since one of the things that was traditional to forego during Lent was meat, the Venetians – early celebrators of Carnaval – referred to the day before Lent as “Carne Vale,” which translated to “meat gone,” or “no more meat.” In Brazil, three of the 26 states officially celebrate Carnaval. To the north it is more typical to have street parties (called blocos) or impromptu parades. In Rio, Carnaval has become much more commercialized, and is mainly a competition in music, dance, costumes and floats in competing parades conducted by “Samba Schools.” Each Samba School represents about 2,500 people, who work all year on their floats, costumes and dance routines. These are more social groups than schools. Then each night of Carnaval several of these Samba Schools parade, and are judged on the quality of their parades. Originally the parades followed city streets (as do parades in New Orleans’ Mardi Gras) but as popularity of Carnaval grew, for logistical and safety reasons, in 1983 Architect Oscar Niemeyer, who created the capital city of Brasilia, was commissioned to build a permanent Sambadromo (Sambadrome), and that’s where I’ll be going tonight. Now, not that you get the idea that there is no street celebration left in Rio’s Carnaval, there are more and more blocos (block parties) every year, which resemble the revelry we see in New Orleans, and I’ve been caught in three of them since arriving here. (And yes, CrewzCrazee, I did get some pictures). For those who asked about differences between New Orleans’ and Rio’s Carnaval celebrations I’ve touched on most of them. The one major difference is that, while nudity and baring of breasts is almost synonymous with Mardi Gras, officially, nudity is not allowed in the Samba parades or blocos. (Sorry, CrewzCrazee).

 

SuziClue: I find the number and variety of shore excursions offered by Azamara in Rio to be lacking, especially since we will be here for four nights. There are a grand total of four daytime excursions, none of them particularly unusual.

 

Markolenski: Carnaval and transfers thereto (for one night) were included in the fare on this Azamara sailing. As for the cost, I can’t comment because there are too many variables. For one thing, where you sit in the Sambadrome dictates the cost of your tickets. We are in Sector 9, which is midway up the grandstand. These tickets sell locally in Rio for about $500 USD. If you want to sit right up front, you need to shell out about $20,000 USD per seat, or inherit them. Cheaper seats can be found all the way up in the section requiring the Hubble Space Telescope to get a good view.

[seatravel]

The Sambadromo, itself, is said to be one of the safest places on earth. Getting there is another issue, and I can't answer that as of yet having not gone yet. However, it is typical for cruise ships to have a local expert at a hospitality desk while in Rio, and they certainly could answer your questions. As for going outside Rio, there is so much to do in this city that it would easily fill three days. Today I hiked in Tijurco Forest (Rio's urban rainforest and the largest urban forest in the world). There are many trails and possibility of wildlife sightings, etc. I could spend a whole day people-watching in Ipanema or Copacabana.

 

 

 

We are also going to Rio for the 2009 Carnivaal - I am concerned about safety - we are trying to choose between a cruise sponsored tour to Carnival or going on our own.

 

Alternatively, since our ship is in port for three days, are there other areas in Rio or a short distance away that we could see - we would also consider an out of town trip (maybe an overnight) to an interesting area outside of Rio.

 

Thanks

[greatam]

We will be there in 2009 and the cruiseline wants $1200 per person for tickets and transporation. I can get good tickets for under $200.

 

That is even more expensive then X's package last year. We finally gave up on the X cruise, as they could not be specific about what night the tickets were good for nor any specifics about transportation.

 

We flew to Rio. I purchased tickets in September, the first day they were available. I wanted the frisas (actual chairs to sit on). Cost me $650.00pp per ticket for each night ($2600.00 total). I got "box seats" in front of the grandstand in Section 7, but well worth it to have an actual seat (not a grandstand seat) and a little table to hold a drink.

 

The $200.00 tickets are in Section 1, which has limited views of the parade. The portion of Section 3 that abuts Section 1 also has limited views.

 

You will need to get into Section 5-11 to have a good view. Section 9 is the tourist section and where the cruise line has the tickets.

 

We made arrangements with our hotel to hire a car and driver to STAY around the Sambadromo for the entire time. Good thing we did-DH absolutely hated the crowds, the pushing and shoving and the humungous lines for a drink. About midnight the first night, he went to the car and slept while I enjoyed myself. He refused to go the second night, so I sold my ticket and actually made a small profit.

[cabo de hornos]

A bit more mundane question, but how are they handling the slippery conditions on the tile floor of Windows? It was quite a challenge back in October/November. Regards to Cap'n Carl....a real gem.

 

We were in Rio in January of 2002, pre-cruise on Mercury. Stayed at the Sheraton near Leblon - great view of Ipanema. Embarkation was a nightmare for many. But sailaway to BA was mystical.

 

Thanks much for the blog.

[Guest michael@cruisecritic]

Can you explain the samba a bit, Steve? I'm curious why it's such a storied part of Brazilian culture. Is it much different than any other latin dance? And, most importantly, will you be giving it a try while you're in Rio?

[seatravel]

Well, all over the world, judging by the universally inclement weather seemingly everywhere, the weather gods must be angry. Perhaps they are angry at humanity for having the hubris to take credit for being the cause of global warming, denigrating the effect of the all-powerful climatological deities. In any case, they’ve been dealing Rio a bad hand for days now; it’s gloomy and drizzly this morning, and tonight I’m scheduled to attend the Carnaval festivities in the totally open Sambadrome.

 

It got worse. I had scheduled myself on a morning tour, “Rio Off Road Adventure,” which included a rainforest hike in Tijuca Forest, the largest urban forest in the world. The minute we got in the backs of our jeeps – sheltered only by a stretched canvas tarp – the rain started coming down in sheets. Miraculously, a crowd of street vendors magically appeared to sell us plastic rain ponchos at $3.00 a pop…clearly a bargain, as all but one of us elected to continue with the hike. Sorry to say no wildlife was sighted; obviously the animals were a good deal smarter than we were.

 

By the time the tour was over, however, the rain had let up, and if there was no sunshine, at least the sky was brightening. We were even able to slide back the tarp as we passed a bloco which allowed us to shoot pictures and interact with the revelers. By the time we were scheduled to depart for the Sambadrome it had virtually stopped raining.

 

A few notes:

 

Enrichment lectures are wonderful assets for any cruise, and are well worth attending, in most cases. However, one of the reasons for travel is to experience unfamiliar events first-hand, and to form one’s own judgments. There were some details I gleaned from Carnaval in Rio that ran counter to certain assertions in the lecture delivered by the outside enrichment lecturer. For one thing, unless I misunderstood, we were led to believe that blocos were rare in Rio and that Samba School parades on the actual streets of Rio had been supplanted by the events at the Sambadrome. Both were incorrect. We ran into blocos nearly everywhere we turned, and, as it turned out, there were nightly parades by minor Samba Schools right along the boulevard fronting the port, which, I am told, gives you the chance to get close enough to touch, even to step into the parade a march along with it. (If the weather cooperates I plan to check that out tonight).

 

Another thing we were told is that nudity was nonexistent, or very rare at best. Well that’s either wrong or the first Samba School parade I saw last night had more wardrobe malfunctions than Janet Jackson with a blind seamstress.

 

Now, for the festivities themselves. We piled into buses, and were issued our documents: two plastic, magnetically striped cards; a credit card-sized one in a plastic slip case with a larger one on a lanyard, much like a rock concert backstage pass. This larger card had our seating information (sector, row and seat number), and makes an excellent souvenir. We were all in Sector Nine, one of two excellently positioned sectors given over in large part to Rio tourism. Seating was amphitheater-style concrete benches, with “seat” numbers painted on the surface. Those who showed up at the gathering spot on the ship were assigned lower bus numbers and the lower bus numbers got the closest rows. Aboard the bus we were also issued “Carnaval 2008” stadium cushions (also good souvenirs). Of course, we had been told many times that once the parades start nearly everyone would be on their feet. This bit of information, it turned out, fell on deaf ears for many passengers, and created an unfortunate reduction of their enjoyment. Samba School parades are very much like dramatic moments in any sport. Imagine a “Hail Mary” pass in a pro football game. Everyone jumps to their feet, and then sits back down when the play is over. Same with Carnaval. However, with Samba School parades each “play” lasts nearly an hour-and-a-half. We had people behind us who couldn’t stand for long periods of time. Unfortunately, with literally thousands of people in the stands on their feet, there was nothing they could do to ameliorate their situation. This should be a caveat for those for whom standing long periods is a problem. Seating in the concrete bleacher sectors of the Sambadrome may not be appropriate for them, and inquiring about investing extra money for ground level front row seats may be a possible solution. (See greatam’s post, below).

 

On the way to the Sambadrome our guide explained that it was expected that we would be able to view the parades of three Samba Schools, at which point it would be about 11:40 p.m. Each Samba School can take up to 80 minutes to complete their parade, and they are penalized by the judges for going over the 80 minute time limit. Digital clocks all over the stadium keep track of the elapsed time.

 

The Sambadrome is like a dragstrip with seating on either side of a bright white roadway in the center. A hashed yellow line bisects the roadway, giving the float drivers something to line up on. The feeling inside the Sambadrome is incredibly safe, and everywhere you look are “Rio Tourism” staffmembers, most of whom speak English, who assist attendees and answer questions. Security is everywhere. The mood is festive from the moment you enter.

 

Sector Nine is about midway down the roadway and all the floats and dancers stop there to perform. (The judge’s box is almost directly across). At 8:30 p.m. fireworks exploded at the far end of the roadway. (In the Sambadrome, fireworks signal the beginning and end of each parade). The first parade was not actually a Samba School, but some sort of introduction, with only one float. Almost as soon as it had exited the other end of the ‘drome off went the fireworks again, and the parade for the first Samba School, from Sao Clemente, began. Each parade has a theme. “Sao Clemente’s theme was the return of the Portuguese royal family to Brazil 200 years ago. The parade lasted 76 minutes; then there was a break of about a half-hour while the roadway was cleaned and the next parade marshaled at the end of the Sambadrome. That Samba School, from Porto da Pedra celebrated 100 years of Japanese immigration, and had floats with loads of Asian icons – even a troop of dancing sushi chefs wearing hats in the shape of giant sushi “boats” filled with simulated sushi!

 

But rather than go on and on describing, I’ve uploaded a few of the more than 400 pictures I shot…

[seatravel]

Thanks, greatam, this is useful information.

 

 

That is even more expensive then X's package last year. We finally gave up on the X cruise, as they could not be specific about what night the tickets were good for nor any specifics about transportation.

 

We flew to Rio. I purchased tickets in September, the first day they were available. I wanted the frisas (actual chairs to sit on). Cost me $650.00pp per ticket for each night ($2600.00 total). I got "box seats" in front of the grandstand in Section 7, but well worth it to have an actual seat (not a grandstand seat) and a little table to hold a drink.

 

The $200.00 tickets are in Section 1, which has limited views of the parade. The portion of Section 3 that abuts Section 1 also has limited views.

 

You will need to get into Section 5-11 to have a good view. Section 9 is the tourist section and where the cruise line has the tickets.

 

We made arrangements with our hotel to hire a car and driver to STAY around the Sambadromo for the entire time. Good thing we did-DH absolutely hated the crowds, the pushing and shoving and the humungous lines for a drink. About midnight the first night, he went to the car and slept while I enjoyed myself. He refused to go the second night, so I sold my ticket and actually made a small profit.

[seatravel]

Sorry to say the slate floors in Windows Cafe are as slippery as they were when this was the R6. It's not from spillage as they are equally slippery everywhere. They put down mats but it's still dangerous.

 

 

A bit more mundane question, but how are they handling the slippery conditions on the tile floor of Windows? It was quite a challenge back in October/November. Regards to Cap'n Carl....a real gem.

 

We were in Rio in January of 2002, pre-cruise on Mercury. Stayed at the Sheraton near Leblon - great view of Ipanema. Embarkation was a nightmare for many. But sailaway to BA was mystical.

 

Thanks much for the blog.

[seatravel]

More photos

[seatravel]

Still more photos

[greatam]

That Samba School, from Porto da Pedra celebrated 100 years of Japanese immigration, and had floats with loads of Asian icons – even a troop of dancing sushi chefs wearing hats in the shape of giant sushi “boats” filled with simulated sushi!

 

I had to laugh at your nudity comments. The rules for the parade state "no nudity". So you cover yourself in body paint-the Brazilian answer to "no nudity".

 

I sooo much agree with you about the seats and standing for long periods of time. For future reference, IF the ship charges extra for Sambadromo tickets (which are ALWAYS in Section 9-the tourist section), pax may well do better buying their own tickets and arranging their own transportation. A couple of vendors in Rio are now selling packages in the LUXURY COVERED BOX SEAT section (Section 2). About $500 per ticket per night (about the same price as the cruise tickets), but you actually get a seat, food and booze. The box seats are shown in your picture-which I am sure was taken of the boxes across from Section 7 or 9 (see the people hanging out the windows-those are the covered box seats-the BEST boxes in Sections 2 hold 12 people. The others hold up to 24)

 

Did you get to see the lady who is going for the world record for plastic surgeries??? She had wires implanted in her eyes last week to look more "Asian". She had nothing on but gold body paint. Brazilian wax, anyone????

 

http://www.newsmax.com/international/brazil_carnival/2008/02/04/69924.html

[melissa@cruisecritic]

Steve, thank you so much for posting pictures! Can't wait to hear more -- looks like an insane, incredible crowd!!

[SuziClue]

Thanks, Steve, for your answer to my question. You definitely make us want to go!

 

One other: have you seen other cruise ships docking in Rio for the duration as is Azamara Journey? Wondering what the options are....

 

Best,

 

Suzi

[seatravel]

There are other ships here, but none will be here as long as we will. But Infinity is here, as is Splendor of the Seas, and a number of less familiar vessels.

 

 

Thanks, Steve, for your answer to my question. You definitely make us want to go!

 

One other: have you seen other cruise ships docking in Rio for the duration as is Azamara Journey? Wondering what the options are....

 

Best,

 

Suzi

[seatravel]

I lived in the Florida Keys for seven years and attended many a Fantasy Fest in Key West – ground zero for the art of body painted nude revelers, so I know what can be done with a deft airbrush. But there were several incidences of actual toplessness in the Sao Clemente parade – come clearly accidental, but one case most obviously intentional…I don’t know how or why they skirted the rules but I have the photos. (I’m sure Melissa would be very ticked off at me if I uploaded them to the thread…)

 

 

 

I had to laugh at your nudity comments. The rules for the parade state "no nudity". So you cover yourself in body paint-the Brazilian answer to "no nudity".

 

I sooo much agree with you about the seats and standing for long periods of time. For future reference, IF the ship charges extra for Sambadromo tickets (which are ALWAYS in Section 9-the tourist section), pax may well do better buying their own tickets and arranging their own transportation. A couple of vendors in Rio are now selling packages in the LUXURY COVERED BOX SEAT section (Section 2). About $500 per ticket per night (about the same price as the cruise tickets), but you actually get a seat, food and booze. The box seats are shown in your picture-which I am sure was taken of the boxes across from Section 7 or 9 (see the people hanging out the windows-those are the covered box seats-the BEST boxes in Sections 2 hold 12 people. The others hold up to 24)

 

Did you get to see the lady who is going for the world record for plastic surgeries??? She had wires implanted in her eyes last week to look more "Asian". She had nothing on but gold body paint. Brazilian wax, anyone????

 

http://www.newsmax.com/international/brazil_carnival/2008/02/04/69924.html

[seatravel]

Samba is at the core of Carnaval in Brazil because, even though its roots are set in Western Africa, the final art forms of both the music and the dance are purely Brazilian. Samba is key to Brazilian Carnaval for the same reason that jazz is at the heart of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras.

 

And as for samba-ing, not this trip, but see my final blog post for what I may do next time...

 

 

Can you explain the samba a bit, Steve? I'm curious why it's such a storied part of Brazilian culture. Is it much different than any other latin dance? And, most importantly, will you be giving it a try while you're in Rio?

[seatravel]

One last post to the blog:

 

Here’s a real kicker. I found out (alas, too late), that you can do more than watch the Samba School parades in the Sambadrome. You, or I, or any of us for that matter, can actually march with one of the Samba Schools! It would take a bit of research and preplanning, but here’s how it works. You contact the Samba School and pay a fee (usually about $200 USD). Then, you are required to attend at least one rehearsal, and to buy your costume from the Samba School (which you get to keep; how’s that for the ultimate souvenir?), and that’s it! One of our fellow passengers is a Carioca, and she paraded with Sao Clemente on the first night. She told me that if I’d met her early enough in the cruise I could have done it too.

 

Next time I come to Carnaval, count me in!

[greatam]

One last post to the blog:

 

Here’s a real kicker. I found out (alas, too late), that you can do more than watch the Samba School parades in the Sambadrome. You, or I, or any of us for that matter, can actually march with one of the Samba Schools! It would take a bit of research and preplanning, but here’s how it works. You contact the Samba School and pay a fee (usually about $200 USD). Then, you are required to attend at least one rehearsal, and to buy your costume from the Samba School (which you get to keep; how’s that for the ultimate souvenir?), and that’s it! One of our fellow passengers is a Carioca, and she paraded with Sao Clemente on the first night. She told me that if I’d met her early enough in the cruise I could have done it too.

 

Next time I come to Carnaval, count me in!

 

NEXT TIME: http://www.rio-carnival.net/rio_carnival/rio_carnival_costumes.php