PD - W818 - What a fantastic voyage

[SeaDog-46]

28 days - 14 ports & a sail by - what a great itinerary.

Book Sun Princess or PD for next year for this cruise - you will not be disappointed.

 

As Cheryl & Geri have done such a great job on their blog - I shall take a different tack & give you the gen from a mariners view.

 

Things did not get off to a good start on Tueday 3rd of June.

Planes fogged in at Rockampton & Melbourne caused havoc with flights up & down the east coast.

Our flight out of Brisbane was cancelled & we were transfered to another 2 hours later.

Then it took us 30 mins to check in with P&O at the terminal - plus customs & security.

Ship was delayed from 1600hrs. sailing - waiting for Melbourne P&O air flights as well as some others that got info from P&O that the ship was waiting. Others did not get this advice & joined the ship in Noumea.

 

Lines were let go at 1950hrs & we trust out & swung in the turning basin.

2015 we passed under Sydney Harbour bridge & in a strong breeze & showers moved down harbour & out to the Heads.

With the forecast strong wind warning & moderate swell we had a bouncy night as Capt. Froude attempted to make up the lost time.

 

At noon 4th we were doing only 17 knots in a very rough sea & swell - just short of a gale. Full overcast with squalls. 20.5 C

Waves banged the bow - this became the norm for a lot of the voyage due to the strong SE Trades that had been blowing for some time.

Capt. Froude advised that we should still arrive ontime & that the weather would improve over the next 24 hours.

 

Noon on the 5th - average speed from Sydney had increased to

18.8 knots & weather had moderated to ENE 5 - 4/8 cloud & 21.5C

Met 1st Officer Navigator - Boris from Croatia & learned that deck dept. were mixed European from Italy, Croatia, Poland & Bulgaria.

Capt. Froude being the only Brit. Engineers were all Italian.

 

Arrived Noumea - only 22 min. late. To a stunning sunny day with only light breeze & a few clouds - 24C

 

John

[LouLou28]

Welcome home!

 

Looking forward to reading more!

[Seadreams27]

Welcome back.

 

Nice to have a new spin on doing a review.

 

Look forward to rest of review.

[lizzy77]

Please don't keep us waiting!!!:)

[Ela 2]

Hi John,

I am also looking forward to the rest of your review. Make sure you tell us what you did in each port.:):)

 

We are among the lucky ones going on the Pearls of Tahiti cruise on the Sun Princess in October. It is virtually the same itinerary as yours.

 

Evon.

[Lizard©]

Welcome back, I'm also looking forward to the rest of your review :)

[kaseyoz]

welcome home

I could not get onto chooks blog from this PC so only read it once early in the cruise from a friends house.

 

It certainly looks like a wonderful cruise and certainly one I would love to do, glad you enjoyed it.

[SeaDog-46]

It was a lovely warm & nearly cloud free day in Noumea. 24C

I have not cruised since 1971 & not being so adventurious as the poultry girls - we opted for P&O tours in most ports.

 

We were off the ship at 0845 for the morning NOU-E1 Myth of Kanak tour to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre. [A$69] It was designed by Renzo Piano who also did the exterior design of Pacific Dawn.

 

The bus was a modern French AC coach - a bit of a climb to get in -

with a female tour guide from the cultural centre. We left town to the east & around all the bays to the east & north of Noumea - good clear commentary all the way to the centre which is NW of the city. The group from 2 buses was split in two & while one did the inside the other the outside walk. A cold drink was given before reboarding the coaches for the return to town via an expressway.

 

Had lunch back onboard & later went for a walk into town.

Not impressed - even Coconut Square seemed tired compared with 1971.

Locals not all that friendly compared to our later islands.

 

At 1717 all lines were let go & the ship thrusted off the berth.

As the sun set we moved out of the harbour escorted by a modern tug.

Pacific Dawn passed through the Woodin Canal & Havannah Passage in the dark & pilot was dropped at 1942 hrs.

 

John

[SeaDog-46]

Saturday 7th June

Noon position 22-00S 172-08E Course east[090] sp.17.8 knots

Wind South 3 - SE swell - 3/8 cloud 25C A great day to be at sea.

 

Passed Mathew Island & Hunter Island with information about these isolated uninhabited islands given by Capt. Andrew Froude in his midday update.

 

Sunday 8th - Morning - light rippled sea becoming calm.

Noon position 21-30S 179-20.6E Co. 083 Sp. 17.55 knots

Wind SE 2 - SE swell - 3/8 cloud 24C

 

At 2320 approx. the ship suffered a total power failure.

The emergency generator started automatically & the emergency lights came on.

At 2330 the Capt. made an announcement that all was OK & not to worry as these things happen.

2350 power was restored & the propellers began turning again.

We were advised next day that one cylinder liner in one of the 3 generators in use at the time [speed was 16 knots] developed a crack that quickly became a hole - allowing hot gases into the cooling water.

As the cooling system was common to all generators the water overheated & auto shut down all 3 generators.

 

Monday 9th - Secured alongside Nuku'alofa's Queen Salote wharf at 1042 - nearly 2 hours late. Lost time due to stoppage could not be made up on the remaining 3 generators.

A lovely day in Tonga - wind NE 3 - 3/8 cloud - 25C

 

John

[croydonCruiser]

John, thanks for your reviews so far. They are fantastic! I'm really enjoying your "mariner's view" of the cruise. You must have kept detailed notes of times, speeds, positions and so on.

 

Keep it up! :D:D:D

[Lizard©]

Love reading this John, thank you.

Can't wait for the rest, very interesting. :)

[mickalex]

Brilliant john, being an ex pilot i like your style for the facts point of view!

[SeaDog-46]

Glad you are liking this different view of our cruise.

Some info is from my notes & the rest from the Log of the Cruise by the navigator Boris.

 

Where are we - ah yes -

Arriving late at Queen Salote wharf in the capital of the Kingdom of Tonga. It was another bright & sunny day with a light NE breeze, a few clouds & 25C.

 

There was major chaos onboard as people tried to get to to showlounge for the shore tours. The queue was long & slow - due to only one person giving out the tour stickers. Also many passengers did not hear the announcement that tours were to run 45 mins. late.

Eventualy more staff were brought in & some passengers told to come back later for their tours.

 

We were on TBUA1 - morning Historic Nuku'lofa tour. [A$59]

As the dock was a working container berth we were led down to where the buses waited. Today we had a school mini bus. Partially air conditioned - open door & windows. Our tour guide was Susann - a pretty 26 year old.

This was an interesting tour for the historic & culture side of Tonga.

Stops were made at - The Royal Palace, Royal burial mound, a very old rock burial site, Capt. Cook's landing place & the Ha'amonga - stonehenge of the pacific. Many stops had stalls set up selling local crafts.

The town itself was 2km from the ship along the waters edge & apart from a few colonial building, was not all that attractive.

The locals are a very friendly lot - smiling & greeting over 2000 visitors.

 

We were scheduled to depart at 1700 - but we waited for a few people who were missing. When they appeared at the gate 200 metres away the fog horn was sounded a couple of times - this made them run - & they were cheered onboard.

It was during the captains announcement that I realised that nearly all the ports we were visiting were daylight only operations for Pacific Dawn.

The exceptions being - dep. from Apia & Papeete. Also Rarotonga as it is an open anchorage. Noumea I am not sure about. It has to do with the size of the ship & the little experience the pilots have with the ship.

This explains changes to departure times we were wondering about before the cruise.

The captain put the mockers on the weather by saying how lovely it had been. Overnight it started to rain.

 

Finally let go at 1712 & to the sound of the island farewell from the police band - we moved off the berth & out through the channel as the sun set over the islands to the west.

 

It had been a lovely day for the passengers - but the engineers had to replace the cylinder liner on the damaged generator. It was fixed by departure. Only the engine control room has AC.

 

John

[SeaDog-46]

Tuesday 10th June

Our overnight voyage to Vava'u [pronounced - Va Va U]

was uneventful & the 157nm were covered in 10.4 hrs at 15.09 knots.

Stbd. anchor was let go at 0701 - right ontime - in 44 metres of water.

Vessel was brought up with 7 shackles in the water at 0725.

At 0740 clearance was recieved & the tender service started.

It was an overcast drizzly day - ESE 4 - 24C.

 

After getting the tender ticket [no P&O tour] - I was wondering where to wait - when my number was called. Down the centre staircase to the tender port - click out with card & into the boat.

It's a good 20 min ride into the sleepy, attractive but soggy town of Neiafu pop. 6,000. Few stalls selling wares on the wharf.

Walked into town, past the market on right & then on the left a government building looking like a large Queensland house - was the the post office & other departments. Into the main street & just on the right is a cafe with internet & the best bread etc. run by a New Zealander.

 

The beautiful harbour is called Port of Refuge - named by the Spanish navigator Don Francisco Antonio Mourelle - who was the first European to visit the Vava'U Islands in 1781.

Yachts from many nations were anchored in the harbour.

 

Our anchor was weighed at 1500 - PD turned short round & departed through the Fainaya Channel. After dropping our Tongan pilot, the ship passed close around the cliffs of the northern coast before setting course for Rarotonga. It was still drizzling.

 

As we crossed the International Date Line overnight the next day was also Tuesday 10th of June.

 

Noon position - Lat.19-50S Long. 167-15W Speed 19.8 knots

Course 100 deg. - wind easterly 6 - mod SE swell - overcast & 25C.

 

Overnight clocks put forward 1 hour to GMT -10.

[interesting to note that Tonga's time zone is GMT +13.]

By this time the poultry girls were - [deleted] - luckily our arrival at Rarotonga was 1000 hrs. but we were late due to the head seas & anchored at 1115 hrs.

 

John

[SeaDog-46]

Wednesday 11th June.

Anchored in 77 metres of water at 1115 - a bit late due to head winds & the everpresent SE swell.

 

Many thought it would be too rough for a tender service but with use of the thrusters & engines a lee was made & we were all able to go ashore.

 

Weather at noon was SE 4 - 7/8 cloud with passing showers - 24C.

 

We were on the RARA1 - round Island tour. [$79]

Our transport a school mini bus with another good guide - this time a large male. The information given was clear & interesting.

We learned that the 3 council areas on Raro are all run by female chiefs. There are a set of rules that home owners have to comply with that includes keeping your area clean & tidy, dog rules & mosquito rules complied with. Inspectors visit to ensure compliance. Everywhere was very tidy & litter free.

This did not mean a lot to us at the time - but when we later saw French Polynesia & to a lesser extent Samoa - the amount of litter & rubbish there was bad compared to Rarotonga.

Back in town we walked to look at the shops. Bought a NZ$10 Pareo.

At the wharf markets purchased a black pearl pendant for NZ$90 with Visa card. This is the place to buy Black Pearls. The prices in FP were higher for less quality.

People again very friendly & drive at a sedate pace.

 

Departure was scheduled for 1800 but did not start heaving anchor until 1830.

 

Thursday 12th June

Noon position - lat.19-09S Long. 155-33W Sp. 16 knots.

Wind SSE 7-8 - 3m SE swell - 7/8 cloud - 26C

Upper Sun Deck closed due to strong relative winds across the deck.

 

Mrs. Narelle Froude - the Captain's wife - was onboard giving port talks

in the showlounge. These we very interesting.

She had previously worked on Princess in various capacities.

 

Friday 13th June - Arrival Raiatea.

Pilot embarked at 0631 [sunrise] & we entered Passe Teavapiti to tie up at our berth at Uturoa at 0728.

 

John

[SeaDog-46]

Friday 13th June

 

It was overcast, windy with showers - 26C.

 

We were on the RFPG1 tour to Black Pearl & Vanilla plantation [$79] - which starts with a 3km. enclosed catamaran ferry ride over to the sister island of Tahaa. Then into low headroom Le Trucks with wooden benches.

Of course fully airconditioned.

After a short drive up the hill the buses stopped at a lookout.

First stop the Vanilla farm where the tour guide gave an excellent talk on the growing & uses of vanilla. Dried pods were for sale along with some craft. Fresh fruit & drinks were supplied.

Back into le trucks for short ride to pearl farm. Guide gave extensive talk on pear production. The shop had good quality pears for sale along with other items. Fruit & drinks supplied.

Due to delay of boat taking us back - the pearl farm people put on some entertainment on the jetty.

Trip back was not pleasant due to the strong head wind - much bouncing around in the steel ferry.

 

At 1730 sailing was cancelled because of the closure of the port due to 30 knot winds. Unscheduled night in Raiatea.

Capt. Froude advised that the next 3 ports would be a day late but we would be back on schedule at Pago Pago.

 

Saturday 14th June

Port reopened at sunrise & we thrust off the berth at 0658 in a moderate breeze. Instead of turning around & going out where we had entered the lagoon the morning before - we headed north up towards Tahaa Island.

Then up the west coast of Tahaa inside the reef to the Paipai channel where we did a hard left turn out into the ocean. The next few hours we passed around the south of Raiatea & then set course for Papeete.

Suprisingly a lot of the passengers did not realise or see the detour.

 

Noon weather - wind ESE 6 - 5/8 cloud - 27C.

 

John

[SeaDog-46]

More photos of dep. Raiatea along the west side of Tahaa Island.

[LouLou28]

Really enjoying the review SeaDog ... keep it coming!

[mickalex]

Thanks sea dog, just brilliant mate. My fave picture is the last with the swell breaking over the reef taken from the bow, just a great shot.

[SeaDog-46]

Thanks LouLou28 & Mickalex.

The dep. Raitea photos were initially taken from the secret deck forward but the later ones from one of the aft decks.

 

14th June continues -

By the time we were approaching Pepeete harbour it was 1600 & I had a place on the secret for'd deck. The unusual arrival time gave all of us a great view as we approached the island of Tahiti.

As our pilot was still onboard we did not slow our approach much & passed into the harbour at 1630.

Wind had moderated from ESE 6 & there was less cloud than at noon.

We turned around to port off the container berth & backed into our cruiseship berth - portside to on the northern pier.

M.V. Paul Gauguin was on the other pier - sailing later that night.

Suprisingly P&O's port guide does NOT show these two new piers.

Pacific Dawn was to stay alongside overnight & tours were to operate the next day - one day late.

 

Sunday 15th June

We joined the morning PPTD1 Leisurely Tahiti tour [$69]

Transport was again Le Truck but with more headroom & better seats.

Our guide was a big Hawaian fellow. As there were several buses on this trip - ours made its way eastwards along the coast directly to the waterfall. There was an easy 10min. walk & we were able to get right to the base pool. Unfortunaly one of the half wild mangy dogs thought jumping & bitting the tourists was a good game. These unowned dogs were everywhere in French Polynesia along with litter.

Some local lads were preparing coconuts to sell - not even a smile as we passed by. In Tonga, Rarotonga, Samoa & Fiji there would have been smiles & a hearty welcome from the locals.

Was looking forward to seeing Point Venus where Cook did the observations & Bounty's troubles started. Although the lighthouse is impressive the black sand beach is not.

Stopped at a blowhole & lookout on our way back to town.

The port area at Papeete is quite attractive - far better than Noumea or Suva. There were stalls selling [expensive] handicrafts & a food court in the evening.

With Pacific Dawn's stern nearly in the mainstreet along the waterfront - the after decks were a great place to watch locals in the evening.

Moorea ferries berthed on our stbd. side.

They were busy with the locals returning after the weekend away.

 

Weather - few clouds 2/8 - NNW 2 - 26c @ noon. A lovely day.

 

At 0330 Monday morning all passengers were onboard & at 0350 we let go & proceeded towards Moorea.

 

John

[SeaDog-46]

Monday 16th June

 

Narelle Froude thinks Moorea anchorage is the most beautiful in the world.

I think I agree with her. Opunohu Bay is used by the bigger ships.

We dropped our anchor in 35 metres at 0700 & started the tender service shortly afterwards to a pier at Papetoai.

It was a slightly blustery but clear morning.

On the MOZC1 morning tour - Circle Island drive & Tiki Village [$59].

The AC buses were not so new but very comfortable compared to

Le Trucks. We made our way south around Opunohu Bay & around the Island clockwise. After a few photo stops we arrived at the Fruit Juice factory with a few other buses & taxis. It seemed half the ship was there in the gift shop trying to make purchases. What a scrum.

The so called fruit juice is very nice & very alcoholic.

Various other stops were made for photos & then the Tikki Village.

The show was quite good - but with the sea behind the dancers it made photographs dark. Even the ships camera guy could not get a good angle.

There are various small shops in the village.

We did not have a tour guide - the forty year old driver giving us a commentary. He was an expectant father with 2 other childen & asked if we knew that the mothers were called MaMa's. He said his wife was a big mama - but not a sumo mama. This got a big laugh when we realised what he had said. Another enjoyable tour learning about Moorea.

 

Noon weather - Wind SSE 5, 5/8 cloud, 26C.

 

Anchor was weighed at 1736. Ship was turned short round on the thrusters & we proceeded out of the channel & to the north & Bora Bora. Pilot remained onboard.

 

John

[Ela 2]

Thanks John. We are enjoying reading your review and looking at the pics. Can't wait for October when we visit these ports in the Sun Princess.:):)

[SeaDog-46]

Thanks Ela2 - will continue.

 

Bora Bora - or as heard in Moorea - Bora boring!

Tuesday 17th - another bright & breezy day.

Entered the lagoon at sunrise & anchored at 0700 close to Vaitape - using both anchors.

 

BOBA1 Highlights of Bora Bora was our morning tour today. [$59]

Transport was again Le Truck with plastic bucket seats - fully air conditioned of course.

We toured around the island clockwise. There are many new 5 star resorts offshore on the reef islands - as is the airport. Many tourists arrive at the airport & then go by launch to their resort - some never going onto the main island. These off-shore resorts have to be serviced from a base on the main island. So we passed several of these large parking / service bases on our way along the coast road. Stops were made at various places for photos & lastly Bloody Mary's where it started to rain.

Back in town we tried to buy stamps at the post office. You had to take a queue ticket & wait to be called - some had been waiting nearly an hour. Decided to post in Pago Pago - no waiting & half the cost.

 

I was disappointed that Bora Bora did not live up to all the hype. It is over developed & unless you can afford an off-shore resorts, not worth the cost of getting there.

 

Weather at noon - Wind SSE 5 - 5/8 cloud - 26C.

 

At 1750 we commenced heaving in the anchors, turned short round & retraced our course out through Passe Teavunui, dropped our FP pilot & set a NW'ly course for Pago Pago.

The full moon had risen over Bora Bora astern.

 

John

[gizzigoo]

Thanks Sea Dog,

Am loving your reviews, look forward to each posting.:D

 

Glenda

[SeaDog-46]

Wednesday 18th June

 

After 15 days the wind was now behind us & it was very pleasant on deck. We were also on our way back west.

It was a great day at sea after 4 ports in a row.

 

Noon position - Lat. 15-50S Long. 157-09W Sp. 17.4 knots.

Course 276 deg. - Wind ESE 4 - mod. sea - 7/8 cloud - 29C

 

On one of the sea days there had been on Old Seadogs meeting - attended by 10 ex mariners. Only about 3 of which had been at sea all their working life.

Capt. Andrew Froude attended - although this was not advised in the Pacific Daily. Also the Italian Staff capt. Marcello Mancini dropped in later. It was great getting the master's view on things that happened on the ship. He questioned us all about our connection with the sea.

It ranged from one old chap who joined QM before the war as deck boy to an ex master on the old P&O subsiderary in Australia -

Eastern & Australian shipping co. Now gone like the rest of P&O.

I had an interesting talk with Marcello about the training the ship gives to there mainly Indonesian deck crew & I was also suprised to learn they still use paper charts on the bridge to plot their positions during the watches.

Marcello lives in Sydney & maybe he will be a P&O Captain later.

 

Thursday 19th June

Noon position - Lat. 15-06S Long. 164-54W - Sp. 17.4 knots.

Course 276 deg. - Wind E 3 - 2/8 cloud - 28C.

Even better than yesterday.

The full moon hung over the ship that evening & it was very pleasant to walk the top deck.

 

Friday 20th June Pago Pago [pronounced pango pango]

At 0630 we were at the pilot boarding area waiting for our pilot who embarked at 0700. It was a humis & clear sunny morning, the air was still - and the STINK from the Tuna cannery in the bay was really bad.

It even got into the ship.

Pago Pago now called PONGO PONGO.

 

John