Ducky_01

On the four day short cruise leaving Southampton, Caravan was on Day 3 and Rockumentary was on Day 4. There’s always a later showing so you can make it even if dining late.

Street Curling in the club was good fun, if looking for something to do on a sea day. Also, the lunchtime soups, sandwiches and salads at Eden cafe are excellent. On a nice day, there's outdoor seating on the starboard side of Eden, adjacent to the cafe.

I think what was meant by the post is espresso-based drinks, and in fact I’ve been caught out on this in both the main dining room and Oceanview cafe .. if you do not specify “drip coffee” then they will assume you meant an espresso-based drink, which is subject to charge. On Beyond last year, one waiter at the OVC was so oblivious to the difference between filter coffee and non-filter coffee that I just gave up and ordered an Americano (which I then had to pay for). Conversation went like this.. Me: “I’d like a coffee please” Waiter: “What kind?” Me: “Regular coffee” Waiter: “Espresso?” Me: “No, the one in a pot” Waiter: “Cappucino?” Me: “No, the free one that’s filtered, that you can get in the buffet” Waiter: “Americano?” Me: “Ok fine, an Americano”

You received a specific numbered group sticker and were assigned a specific bus there and back.

Final thoughts. If I could sum up this four day, no-fly cruise in one word, it would be: convenient. From being able to park your car metres from the ship to an itinerary timed to arrive on the UK bank holiday, from the near perfect Express Pass embarkation process to the very walkable ports of Amsterdam and Bruges, everything about this journey made it easy to enter relaxation mode as quickly as possible. On this cruise, I once again had the opportunity to see someone embrace cruising for the very first time (last year it was DW, this year my DMIL). I regularly frequent this board, often just to live vicariously through the trip reports of others, and I know from time to time this community may become slightly jaded about the rising travel costs, the declining value when services are cut, or else that ridiculous debacle with pricing for solo cruisers (what was that all about?). All that said, I hope we all can remind ourselves how wonderful a cruise vacation can be, and how privileged we are to enjoy it. And if you're still feeling a bit negative, my suggestion is to bring someone with you on your next cruise who has never ever gone before, and see the experience from their eyes. Thanks for reading my post, safe and happy travels everyone!

Day 4, Zeebrugges / Bruges. The final day on this brief itinerary was the port of Zeebrugges. As far as we could tell, there is not much to do in the actual port of Zeebrugges and this was ever more evident on a quiet, drizzly Sunday. We had booked well in advance the X excursion, Bruges On Your Own, which was comprised of a 30 minute coach ride to the bus drop-off area into the old medieval town of Bruges. I have read that it is possible to do Bruges on your own, possibly by arranging your own bus or attempting to get there by tram/train but given the limited amount of time and the actual distance from port we thought it prudent to book with Celebrity. Sure enough, the sailaway was later delayed by an hour or so - could this have been because a cruise-sponsored excursion was struggling to return on time? If so, those passengers must've been glad they booked with the cruise line. In some cases, it does sometimes make sense to pay the higher cost with the reassurance that the ship will wait for you. In our case, once the bus dropped us off we were free to roam about town with the only caveat being we had to be back at the bus at an allotted time. I believe, all told, we had about 3-4 hours to explore on our own which really isn't much time at all. Our strategy, so as not to feel rushed, is to focus on doing one thing rather than trying to cram as much into the day as possible (although one fellow guest shared that they had gone to both Bruges and Brussels while in port.. that must've been a whirlwind tour!). We arrived to drizzly weather so thought it best to wander the medieval old town, sidestepping the rain by window shopping the many chocolatiers (how do you even tell the difference between them?). Once we arrived at the canal we thought a 35 minute boat trip would be a perfect way to pass the time and provide a unique perspective of the town from the water. We embarked from the Huidervettersplein, but all of the boat companies run the same tour, for the same price (€15 per person). You do not need to book this in advance, we just found the stall with the shortest queue, but we advise you do this as soon as possible as the boat companies wait until a boat is full before leaving (and you wouldn't want to run out of time, or be caught on a boat too late in the day). We had a hilarious multilingual guide in Alan who shared interesting facts along the way; this was well worth the price of admission! At the conclusion of the boat trip, the clouds cleared and we enjoyed blue skies with just enough time to visit the picturesque Market Square. I would have liked to climb the Belfry tower to enjoy the scenic overlook but sadly this must be booked in advance. Oh well, lesson learned! Since Zeebruges seems to be a frequent stop for many Northern European itineraries I guess I will have to save that for another time. Has anyone been able to do this? Do you have other suggestions of things to do while in port? We thought that the town of Bruges must be beautiful in winter, with festive markets and Christmas lights. But alas, another downpour signalled our time this day was up, and after a quick local beer we caught the bus just in time to return to the ship for one final evening. That evening, I would've thought that the ship would be quiet as guests furiously packed their things for departure (as with most cruises, you're expected to pack your luggage the night before so they can be ready for pickup when you disembark) but discovered quite the opposite: the ship was absolutely buzzing with excitement and the corridors were filled with guests ready for one final hurrah. Bars and lounges were filled with passengers calling drinks orders (possibly to get their money's worth from drinks packages!), the queue to the theatre for the Rockumentary show started well before the production time (tip: get there early), and excited crowds filled the atrium with laughter all evening. As previously mentioned, we were pleasantly surprised to see many dressed up, which begs me to ask - how and where do you pack all these clothes if your stateroom attendant has already collected your suitcase? I didn't see anyone in high heels or a cocktail dress leaving the ship the following morning, so if any experienced cruisers can help uncover this mystery for me, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks for your comments, it's nice to hear from someone who stayed longer on the ship! As a fellow UK-based cruiser, isn't it nice to have a Southampton based Edge-class ship? If you could choose, would you have preferred a Solstice-class ship (e.g. Silhouette) over Apex? On Beyond last year, we found the opposite: when not sailing full, the public spaces seemed too large. Some evenings, it felt eerily quiet as if we were the only ones on a ghost ship. Completely agree about the buffet, I'm not vegetarian per se but I did find it very easy to get my five-a-day fruit and veg at Oceanview Cafe and I think X has always had some of the best quality buffets at sea. Re: the nickel-and-dime approach - yes, especially if you've cruised for awhile it would definitely seem as if they encourage you to spend more. My wife is newer to cruising, my DMIL even more so (this was her first cruise), so they got in the habit of regularly checking their accounts and we had an aim to spend only up to our OBC. But I do agree, I miss those simpler days when more was included in the base fare. Thanks again!

Day 3, Amsterdam. This was an excellent port of call with plenty to see and do (it will be a shame if large cruise ships will be limited in future from docking at the convenient cruise terminal, just a 10-15 minute walk to Centraale station). Most of the main sights are very walkable from the cruise port / central train station, we explored the city on our own with one destination in mind: the Bloemenmarkt. We thought this was well worth a visit, and easily reachable after a scenic 20 minute walk past the Nieuwmarkt with an obligatory stop for a fresh stroopwafel! If you intend to purchase tulip or other flower bulbs from any of the vendors, remember to shop around - the farther into the flower market you go, the better the deals. We meandered along the canaled streets of the De 9 Straatje district, stopping occasionally into shops for cover during frequent bouts of rain. One tip that probably applies in many European ports: visit the local supermarket for reasonably-priced souvenirs; in our case, we left the local Albert Heijn with tins of stroopwafels, chocolates, and mints. We slowly made our way back towards the ship, stopping at Dam square and observing the leaning and crooked Dancing Houses at Damrak before returning to the train station. I believe future itineraries will stop in Rotterdam, and I think there's enough to see in the city of Amsterdam to make it worth a train trip or excursion from there, even if it will be less convenient. We were glad to reach the cruise terminal well before the departure time, with the skies finally clearing after some inclement weather. We very much enjoyed the scenic sailaway from the city, past large wind turbines and carefully through the IJmuiden sea lock.

Tips and tricks. Since some commented on the usefulness of my last trip report, I thought I'd share a few more that I hope will be helpful to you, as well as some Apex v Beyond differences (with pictures included to explain the more nuanced observations): Bring your own drinks. I purchased some mixer-sized cans of our favourite sodas from our local grocery store and brought them onboard (this was admittedly easier since this was a no-fly cruise, but you could equally visit a Tesco in Southampton and do the same). And if you ask your stateroom attendant to remove all the alcohol, then this has the added benefit of removing the expensive temptation to consume anything from the minibar! Ask for an electric kettle. Actually, a kettle and assorted teabags were already available in our cabin so I wonder if this is just an added touch by X on UK-based sailings to cater to British tastes for an in-room cuppa? This saved us from having to carry dangerously hot water from the buffet or Cafe Al Bacio. The footstool is also storage. I don't recall ever seeing a footstool in our cabin on Beyond? I was further astounded to discover that the top lifts off to provide you even more storage! Just remember to collect any belongings that you store there, before you disembark. Thermal Suite engineering. OK this one needs explaining .. there were two distinct features of the Thermal Suite that I found better than on Beyond (although this may have since changed). Firstly, the Rainfall Water Therapy feature contained two benches for sitting - this was a nice touch that I did not notice before? On Beyond, all of the rainfall showers were standing-room only, and so the lack of sitting area made it feel more like a human carwash. Secondly, the engineers of Apex thoughtfully added a "lip" to the showers in the men's changeroom. On Beyond, there was no such feature and so water would spill out everywhere. I only wish the same could be done in the Steamroom and Hammam - to compensate, some resourceful guest rolled up towels against the door to soak up the water before it spilled out of either room. Children can swim in the Solarium. We don't recall a similar sign posted on Beyond, but think this was a thoughtful touch for the many families aboard and a reasonable compromise to allow them to swim in the Solarium pool / hot tub since X doesn't have a splash pool or slides like some of their competitors (the only alternative being the outdoor pool, which is downright uncomfortable on cold or windy days). Be advised, though, that it makes the otherwise peaceful Solarium sound like a leisure centre between the hours of 5-7PM. Always check your statement of charges before you disembark. This can be done from your cabin TV, from the Celebrity app, or by visiting Guest Relations. I unfortunately did not do this, and consequently had to call Celebrity post-cruise to remove some duplicate and erroneous charges.

Day 1, Embarkation / Day 2, Sea day. As I mentioned previously, this was an incredibly smooth sail-away. And also very uneventful. Same goes for the sea day, as we enjoyed some rare sunshine and calm seas across the English Channel. So I'd like to take this opportunity to post about the ship, including the differences we observed when comparing Apex, an older Edge-class ship, to a newer one (e.g. Beyond). Overall, we observed few if any differences in design of either the staterooms or the public areas. Eden? Check. Infinite verandahs? Check. Modern aesthetic? Check. Obviously, newer E-class ships are going to be slightly larger, and consequently the layout of the interior - in particular, the Grand Plaza. They're also going to have that new ship smell and feel: though well-maintained, I noticed little things like the verandah windows were unclean and they also didn't fully come down (on Beyond, the top half descended to be flush with the bottom half). If it was a longer sailing, and I was being more nitpicky, these could be annoying gripes or causes for complaint. On the other hand, due to the slightly smaller size I found the interior spaces on Apex to feel more intimate, and it had the effect of making venues like the Theatre, the Club, and the Grand Plaza feel more lively. As with all ships of this class, the expert layout is able to magically disburse crowds so that it never felt too busy and you could always find a quiet spot somewhere, if that was your preference. Our top chill-out areas on sea day were (1) the outdoor space adjacent to Eden cafe, (2) the Solarium, where cushioned sun beds were always available (no chair hogs) and (3) the semi-private dining "room", when you first enter the starboard side of the Oceanview Cafe. I also recently experienced some health issues prior to sailing, and was looking for good ways to reduce my blood pressure.. so DW encouraged me to use most of my OBC on a cruise-long Thermal Suite pass. At $129 for the duration of the cruise, I thought this was a better deal than the overpriced massage treatments and given my DW had another traveling companion to keep her company in DMIL, I felt less guilty about abandoning them to enjoy the spa, which I did several times during the cruise. We've never splurged on an Aquaclass cabin or suite, and probably never will, but if we did I would be sure to take full advantage of this as much as possible (as I understand, access is included in your fare). Yet, surprisingly I found this area to be very, very quiet throughout the cruise - until the final day when every treatment room was filled with 1-2 guests and there were towels/robes scattered everywhere. Not sure what happened there, perhaps AQ guests weren't aware of this perk? Or else AQ class didn't sail full? The lack of cleanliness on that last day was a tad disappointing, but I thoroughly enjoyed my visits up to then and the Spa staff were all very friendly. A not-to-be-missed highlight of the many sea day activities on offer: Street Curling! Basically, a comically upsized version of shuffleboard played on an inflated "rink", this was as much fun to watch as it was to participate. The Activities staff did mention this is only available on certain ships, so this is perhaps one to look out for on your next sea day. Our one and only sea day was also the only Chic (aka formal) night and I must say, the majority of guests on this sailing dressed to impress! Judging from the number of evening gowns and tuxedos I saw, you could argue that every night was a formal night. The Brits on this cruise were suited and booted, and I think this really contributed to a feeling of glitz and glamour on every evening, not just Chic night. If this isn't your thing, just know that there is no dress code at the buffet and evening attire is never required on X but I'd say on this particular cruise you would've stood out like a sore thumb if you didn't dress up in the evening. We enjoyed this aspect of the cruise, as it made evening dining and nighttime events feel a bit more special. There were surprisingly more children on this cruise - more than any X cruise I'd ever done in the past. This could be a function of the sailing occurring on or near school half-term in the UK, or else the shorter nature of this cruise enabled more families and/or multigenerational groups to cruise together? We found all of the children to be very well behaved and well supervised - a tribute to responsible parents on this cruise, since I'm told X children's programs are a bit lacklustre. One final positive: some had previously commented that shorter 3- to 4-day sailings based out of the UK had a "booze cruise" reputation, especially if the cruise line offered all inclusive packages. While I am sure there were many that subscribed to Celebrity drinks packages (my DW mentioned often times she was the only one at Cafe al Bacio with a non-alcoholic coffee order), I am happy to report there were no drunken louts or rowdy parties. Everyone seemed to enjoy themselves responsibly, without drinking to a regrettable excess.

Departing from Southampton. One of the many reasons we chose this sailing is because we live in the UK, about one hour north of the port of Southampton. I have long envied Florida locals who can just jump on a cruise from Miami or Fort Lauderdale, without having to deal with the hassle of flying. Turns out, if you live close to any other departure port, you can do the same! This cruise attracted a very British crowd, more so than on any other X cruise I've taken: we encountered many groups and families who traveled by car from across the UK. We also met some who booked this as a back-to-back - I believe the following cruise was a 7 night sailing to Scandinavia, which would have extended their holiday to 11 nights with a "port day" in Southampton. Has anyone ever sailed a back-to-back? If so, I wonder what you would do on that changeover day in Southampton? If it was me, I'd probably do an "excursion" to IKEA, which is walking distance to City Cruise terminal (Celebrity currently departs from there, and I think Apex is based in Southampton this summer). Who doesn't love IKEA meatballs? And since we parked our car at the terminal, I suppose you could even order some flat-pack furniture to take with you on the ride home! All told, this was a convenient embarkation point and fair play to Celebrity if your intention was to attract more UK guests - this sailing was well-timed to take advantage of the bank holiday. How to get to the port of Southampton and where to park (if by car). It was incredibly convenient to arrive by car - we chose to park with ABParking, the official car parking provider in the port of Southampton. From their website, simply select your ship and sailing date and they give clear instructions on how and where to go. Terminal staff were friendly and welcoming. Southampton is easily accessible by train from London, expect an hour or so journey and then a taxi from the central train station to the cruise terminal. If arriving by plane, I suppose Heathrow would be the more convenient option, but you would likely need a bus or car service/taxi from there as there are no train options between LHR and Southampton. Gatwick airport (LGW) is even farther away. On embarkation, we spotted a few passengers lugging luggage along the sidewalks into the port (I can only assume they were coming from the train station and wanted to save the cost of an Uber?) Download the Celebrity App and check-in online. Several days prior to sailing, we received emails to prepare us for boarding day, including choosing an arrival time. Thankfully gone are the days where you queued in the terminal to show your passport and documents, then spent time on embarkation day in a lengthy and uncomfortable muster drill; Celebrity has simply perfected this process ... provided you've done the prerequisite check-in online via their app or website and have an "Express pass" downloaded to your phone or mobile device. We (read: I) did this for both my DW and I, as well as our DMIL by tethering her reservation to ours. Then on arrival, we simply showed our Express pass and IDs and within minutes we were aboard. If you've watched the safety videos in advance (also via the app), then the muster drill is complete by checking in at your muster station where they scan your express pass, and then you're free to move about the ship. Speaking of the Celebrity app, has this been improved recently? Since last year, we found that the handy WhatsApp-like messaging service has become even more robust (none of us purchased the Wifi package, so we used this feature to keep tabs on each other's whereabouts on the ship). And we discovered later on the cruise that you could even "vote" for songs in one of the theatre productions (this wasn't as well advertised, so we missed out on voting, but really like the concept). Also, our DMIL was able to control her stateroom television, in addition to in-room lights and blinds (for some reason, we didn't have the TV control feature.. possibly due to our cabin type? DMIL was in a Outside Window; we were in an Infinite Verandah). Drop your bags in your room and explore the ship. Also gone are the days when you had to wait for cabins to be ready - Celebrity allows you to collect your physical Sea Pass card from your stateroom, and even if the room is not yet ready you are welcome to drop off your carry-on baggage before exploring the ship - a nice touch as it saves having to haul your luggage along with you. This was especially helpful for me, as I had brought some non-alcoholic canned drinks with me (still allowed on embarkation day, but you must carry it with you through the security check-in). .

I am posting this having returned from a four day cruise on Celebrity Apex over the recent UK bank holiday (23-27 May). In addition to the usual discussion of the ship itself and port visits (in our case, Amsterdam and Bruges), I'm hoping this draws the interest of anyone who may have ever asked one of the following questions: 1. What's it like to do a shorter cruise? 2. What's it like to cruise out of the port of Southampton? 3. How are the earlier Edge-class ships, compared to the larger and newer Beyond or Ascent? 4. How and why would you travel with your mother-in-law (DMIL)? About us. My DW and I inadvertently become brand loyal to Celebrity, having thoroughly enjoyed our 8 day sailing on Beyond last May (my wife's very first cruise). So much so, in fact, that we took a flyer on the Future Booking deposit during that cruise even though we had no idea if or when we may cruise again. This was out of character for us, as we enjoy variety in our vacations, we tend never to visit the same place twice and consequently didn't really think another cruise would be on the horizon (no pun intended). In hindsight, I am very glad we did! After some reschedules, courtesy of helpful Celebrity telephone agents, we applied that deposit towards this short and sweet sailing and then took advantage of some stellar Black Friday deals last November to make a booking for ourselves and also my DMIL, who would be cruising for the very first time. I am sure well-seasoned cruisers know this already, but the Future Booking is an almost risk-free deal at a nominal cost: in addition to taking advantage of the latest offers at the time, you will almost always get some sort of OBC and you can secure the sailing and cabin of your choice (this was relevant for us as this sailing seemed very full). Still interested? Were you on this cruise too? Please stay tuned for more..

Does anyone happen to know the latest rules around the following: 1. A portable, battery-powered Blood Pressure monitor 2. Cans of soda, on embarkation day (and if allowed, does it need to be in your carry-on or can you check them in with your bags?)

My DW and I are in our 40s, I am not new to Celebrity or cruising but my wife is/was until our first ever cruise on Celebrity Beyond last May in the Eastern Med. Funny story: we met Captain Kate in-person in Montenegro and, not knowing she was the captain, my DW shared her thoughts honestly - she told the captain she was apprehensive at first but fell in love with cruising as a holiday (although Captain Kate said choosing Beyond as your first ship set a "very high bar", and I agreed!). Key benefits of cruising according to my DW: the ability to unpack and relax/unwind right away, waking up to new ports that we otherwise would not visit on a land-based trip, and - most of all - the incredible service. I've cruised with X on and off for the last 10 years - they're definitely my preferred cruise line. As a point of comparison, we do beach vacations, staycations, and city trips (usually of one week or less). FWIW Here are my thoughts: - A transatlantic (which I did solo in 2015 on Celebrity Equinox) was incredible value for money and good fun especially when at sea, but bear in mind I traveled with friends that shared a love of boats, cruising, and all things nautical. X ships are amazingly well-designed, so they'd be my ship of choice for long TA journeys - I never thought drinks packages, suites, or even internet represented good value-for-money and I still don't think so; I do enjoy an occasional splurge at the spa, which was always overpriced but I think of as a vacation treat - I have seen the decline in MDR food quality (specifically, I find mains to be less colourful or vibrant, and lacking in seasoning). I also miss offerings that were once free or represented good value-for-money, such as room service or the fill-a-bag laundry special (my DW has no such comparison, and reminds me these would be at a similar cost if at a hotel, so in that sense we're not really missing out) - On the other hand, the newer X ships are more modern and seem to have more variety in entertainment? I also find the food portions to be just right, and I commend X for minimising food wastage and trying to control costs in that way (IMO, a win-win). I wouldn't say any of it particularly caters to our taste as Gen X-ers / Millennials although the ships themselves, due to their unique design, are very photogenic and the cruise cos are more tech-savvy (ex. must drills via the X app) - I have NOT seen a decline in the service - stateroom attendants, bar staff, waiters work just as hard as they did 10+ years ago and they deserve every penny we give in tips - Due to inflation, costs are rising on everything: flights, hotels, even cruises. You can add to that: food, dining out, gas, rent, etc. This is just life. Bar prices on Beyond seemed comparable to high-end hotels, and my philosophy on specialty dining is "take-it-or-leave-it" - no-one is forcing you to go, but for a special occasion the upcharge represents comparable value to an upscale restaurant (v. dinner at Applebees) and worth it when you consider the decline in MDR ... these are just my/our personal thoughts, I'm sure others will disagree. Will we continue to cruise? Yes! In fact, we're going on Celebrity Apex this spring. But I wouldn't say cruising is any better value proposition than land-based holidays, whereas that may have been the case some years ago. Just a different type of holiday and every once in a while, isn't it nice to have a change?

They were pretty steep, but of a consistent step height and there were handrails. There's also 3 separate entrances. We noticed people of all sorts of fitness levels, I'd just take your time up/down and take a break if necessary. People can go around. Hope you enjoy!

In case it wasn't clear in this part of my report, you must buy your tickets from the well-marked booths for SNAV and NLG, in advance of queuing for the ferry (they will also have independent schedules, although the departure and return times seemed to be roughly the same). As far as I'm aware, you cannot buy tickets aboard the ferry, and in fact you'll probably be denied entry if you don't have a ticket, which could be disappointing. Apologies, hope that helps anyone planning DIY.

OK, now for a dose of British cynicism 🙂 .. possible reasons for such a pleasant experience may have been (1) we travelled off-peak on the first sailing of the season and (2) the rains may have actually kept local crowds at bay in each port. So possibly factor "timing" in if choosing a similar itinerary? Happy planning!

And thanks for your review, as well! I enjoyed reading about the TA that preceded this cruise.

Epilogue. Firstly, thanks to everyone for your supportive comments on my first cruise report. Apologies it took so long to compile, I'm not one for spontaneity at the best of times. If you could please indulge me in one last post, I'd like to reflect upon what made this cruise in particular so great. DW said it best: a first-time cruiser, she always knew that I was going to enjoy this holiday, but she was pleasantly surprised by how much she loved this cruise as well.Why? We've already covered the ship, the ports, the officers and crew, the entertainment and activities, the food .. even the tendering. One last contributing factor put this ship over the top (or should I say, above and beyond.. pun intended 🙂), and that is: the passengers themselves.With all due respect, this is not a Carnival party cruise. But that isn't to say we didn't have fun on this ship. Nor is it a Disney family cruise. But similarly, the few families that were onboard seemed to really enjoy themselves. BTW, for those who complain about the lack of children's amenities, TBH I found most parents simply brought their children along with them, whether that was to dining on formal night, dancing at the Silent Disco at the Grand Plaza, or watching the amazing late-night theatre performances (and it was nice to see families together!).. think about it this way: would you ever feel that was safe or appropriate to bring your kids to the disco in, say, a big city? Since the first time they were recommended by my parents, I've found Celebrity just has a way of attracting a laid-back, unpretentious clientele of all ages and backgrounds (mostly Americans, Canadians, and Brits on this cruise). I disagree with the comments that X marketing is solely focused on a younger, affluent generation of vloggers (though no one seemed phased by me tinkering with a Gopro in the plunge pool 🤓). Ironically, I found the most tech-savvy passengers, those glued to their phones at times, to be "young at heart" retirees in their early 60s who gladly indulged in the Wifi package just so they could stay connected to their children and grandchildren. Were they uploading stories for all their followers on TikTok or Instagram? Probably not but if so, I'd follow them!Equally noteworthy was how polite and considerate most people were: despite the inclement weather we never found a lack of chairs at the Solarium (so no chair hogs), no one cut in line at the buffet or while queuing to leave the ship and while I'm sure many opted for beverage packages, we never saw anyone over-indulge in alcohol. Might our holiday have been different if we'd gone with Marella?The result is a friendly, easy-going and congenial group that we found to be more and more approachable through the course of the week. By the first sea day, we were already engaging in brief elevator chats with complete strangers, asking 'how are you enjoying your cruise so far'? And I feel they were genuinely interested! Later in the cruise, have you ever noticed that you also begin to recognize familiar faces? Like the friendly couple from the mid-west who waited patiently with us in the rain for a Celebrity bus to come rescue us in Corfu, and then cheered loudly when we just made the cut-off (sorry to those behind us). They told us how much they loved ballroom dancing, and sure enough, we found them on several occasions boogying on the dance floor! Or the friendly but quiet Quebecois couple on our excursion in Zakynthos, who didn't let language barrier prevent them from sending a friendly smile our way whenever we crossed paths on the ship. And then there was the group on our delayed outbound flight who shared the common bond of almost missing this cruise together - now, sitting at the bar in the Club as we waited for the next show to begin, we gladly swapped stories with the couple who sat beside us on the flight and we looked forward to seeing them on the plane journey home. It is true that a cruise ship is full of people, thousands in fact. Some naysayers will tell you that's a disadvantage of this type of vacation, but I think in fact it's the people that make cruising so much fun and enjoyable.So with that .. happy cruising everyone, thanks to everyone in this community for their helpful comments and suggestions, and I wish you all the best wherever your travels take you!

Day 8, Naples. Our final port-of-call (and the final part of my trip report .. thanks all for sticking with me, I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed writing it). To say it was a visit to "Naples" is a misnomer, as we never really left the terminal grounds, and spent approximately 40 minutes ashore - roughly the time it took to stroll 500 metres to the adjacent Beverello port and queue for a fast ferry to the island of Capri. This is incredibly easy to do on your own, as the ferry port is adjacent to, or possibly within, the Port of Naples (just on your left as you leave the impressive cruise terminal building) and in fact, I'm not sure what the benefit would be of booking this excursion with Celebrity as we all ended up on the same ferry to Capri and back? Two private companies (SNAV and NLG) operate direct ferries to Capri from Naples, the roundtrip journey will set you back €45 return, per person. At least at the beginning of the season, and on a quiet and cloudy Sunday, no reservations were needed. The journey takes less than an hour each way. You could presumably take one company's ferry there, and another's back (€22.50 one way, pp) but for peace of mind we just booked the roundtrip to have certainty of a spot on the return ferry in time for the ship departure. The ferry is uneventful .. and packed! Bring a mask if you're not comfortable with crowded places, and choose to ignore the snide remarks from fellow day-trippers about the gargantuan, modern cruise ships that come to Naples (I think they're mostly just jealous - it truly is an impressive sight to sail past your ship!) Supposedly a playground for the rich and famous, there is still plenty to see and do for ordinary folks on this charming and compact island. Everyone disembarks at Marina Grande, which makes it quite crowded. Instead of following the crowds to the funicular, we chose instead to take the public bus up the mountain to Anacapri. While you can do the same trip in a station wagon (UK: estate car) convertible-cum-taxi, we thought the cramped, bumpy ride by public bus (€2.20pp, one-way) only added to the charm. From Marina Grande pier, turn right and pick up your tickets from the well-marked biglietteria (the same one that sells funicular tickets) before joining the queue. Buses leave every 10-15 minutes. We knew this was going to be one interesting journey when the aggressive female driver (just stating fact, not opinion) backed the bus right into the steel stanchion holding up the awning over the queue, without flinching! 🙃 The ride to Anacapri takes about 20 minutes, and if you were standing, remember to hold onto something or someone tightly as the bus careens up the narrow mountain road. Every so often, as the driver slows down momentarily to take a hairpin turn, you can make out incredible views of the bay. We arrived with the mountaintop thick with dense fog, so the higher up we went, it seemed as if the bus was navigating its way through the clouds. The bus unloads at Piazza Vittoria, where it felt immediately less crowded and more peaceful. It is a short walk up the stairs to public toilets (€1 per entry, it helps to carry loose change!) and also the entrance to Monte Solaro chairlift (€14pp, return). We would suggest doing this only on a clear day - we decided to skip it since the chairs looked as if they were just disappearing into clouds and instead meandered down through the quaint, sleepy village (much less crowded than Capri) with a gelato in hand. The main shopping street loops around and back, and along the way you get a sneak peek into gardens filled with lemon trees and private orchards. From Anacapri, we decided to make our way on foot down the Scala Fenicia. The start of this walk is Villa San Michele, just follow the tour groups from the chairlift station as their guides lead them down a narrow, tree-lined street to scenic viewpoints overlooking the Marina Grande. Step through the arched entranceway and descend hundred of steps that hug the steep cliffs. On the way down, we met couples headed the opposite direction up, and based on the irritated looks that several wives were giving their husbands, we think that the way down is our preferred route (over the more arduous route up). When the path levels out, you can follow the main path back to Marina Grande, or else follow the path that veers right and goes slightly uphill - a short 20 minute walk, and you will eventually wind up among the shops and restaurants of Capri town. After enjoying the scenic viewpoint, you can then take the funicular back down to Marina Grande (€2.20pp, one-way), but before you leave town don't forget to try a delicious lemon sorbet, scooped out of a lemon! This was a great excursion to cap off our journey through four countries! Alas, it was time to go, and our last sail away was unfortunately a rainy one. We went back to Eden to enjoy the aft views from a dry indoor location - if you're into boats then this is a good spot to watch sailboats enter the nearby marina, as well as the ferries as they come and go from Beverello port. Evening. Once our bags were packed, we made one last stroll through the ship on our way to Cosmopolitan, the last main dining room that we had not yet tried (we went to each of the four MDRs, and enjoyed them all). Although there was no stated dress code, we were surprised to see so many fellow passengers make the effort on this evening to dress up in evening chic attire (how or where you manage to pack this before they take your suitcases away, I'm less sure). Our last bit of entertainment was perhaps the most fun .. Silent Disco Battle of the DJs! I must say, this event in Grand Plaza eventually attracted quite the crowd, and must have been a real sight to see or hear, even if just a bystander. We also thought it was a nice touch to schedule this on the final night, with consideration for passengers who may have been off early to bed for early AM departures. Tips for the day: For your last night, bring a smaller carry-on bag to hold a change of clothes, toiletries, and other essentials. For newbies, unless you intend to walk off the ship with all your luggage in tow, your stateroom attendant will request you pack your heavier, larger suitcases the night before, and they will take them away ~10PM. On arrival at port, they will be waiting for you when you disembark the ship. Forget a carry-on bag? No problem, just use the complimentary canvas bag in your room or else if money is no option then I suppose you could also purchase a bag at one of the expensive shops onboard? Bring a change of old clothes that you don't mind parting ways with. Here's another possible last-day hack: looking to throw away an old pair of trousers, or time to toss that shirt you never really wear at home? Bring them with you on the cruise to wear on the final day, and then you won't need to pack them up.. just toss them when you disembark! Skip Naples, and head for Capri. Unless you love the hustle-and-bustle of a big city, we think the island of Capri was much less crowded and a more charming excursion option. Don't be dissuaded by the large crowds that queue up for each ferry in Naples.. they tend to quickly thin out once on the island, and especially so the farther you travel away from Marina Grande.

Day 7, At Sea. (Thanks to all of you sticking with me, we're almost at the end of this report!). Since I already spoke about the ship and food on the first day at sea, I'd like to focus on Activities and Entertainment in this post. But let's start with a recap of the day: Morning. Those of you who have been reading from D+1 will know that this trip almost didn't happen, as we were among a group of UK passengers that were almost stranded in Rome on embarkation day. Well, the unfortunate consequence of waiting for UK-based passengers is that we tend to also bring the UK weather with us. Think: cloudy, drizzly, rainy. Almost every day. And this sea day was no exception. ☔ So I spent it in the best possible location.. in the Sea Thermal Suite, a product of the 24 hour guest pass I purchased the day before. First, the steamy Hammam. Then a Cold Mist or Tropical Rain shower. Then the dry Sauna. Rinse and repeat. If your idea of relaxation isn't indulging your skin through cycles of heat and moisture until it's as soft as a baby's bottom, then you may prefer my DW's option: lounging in the Solarium and reading a book, with a coffee in hand. Or perhaps doing more or less the same in your IV stateroom, enjoying fully enclosed, floor-to-ceiling views of the wind-swept, white-capped seas? We saw many, many "Do Not Disturb" (or X equivalent) signs affixed to room doors this morning. Art Auction. By the time DW and I met up in the Solarium, both of us were feeling very, very relaxed - a feeling which I hold directly responsible for what happened next: we went to an Art Auction! Situated on Deck 2, the Destination Gateway was repurposed into an art warehouse showcasing an assortment of pieces available for sale. If you've never been to a Park West Art Auction at sea, this was good fun and I would encourage you to go at least once as (1) you are under no obligation to buy anything and (2) there may be free champagne. The other thing we discovered: it's not really an auction per se, in the sense that you'd be bidding against others and the highest bid wins. Instead, each piece of art comes with a suggested price (discounted from an inflated retail price, of course). Then, you choose the ones that interest you the most, and you are free to privately negotiate with a dealer up until the moment that particular piece of artwork is featured on display (at which time the pressure ratchets up to close the deal). Agree to the deal, and you get to participate by raising your ticket number and then enjoying the satisfying sound of a gavel striking at the price point you've conveniently agreed upon (or else feel the sudden weight of buyer's remorse). If you're into art in general, you enjoy the thrill of haggling under time pressure, or you like the idea of attending an auction but worry as I did about accidentally bidding with an ill-timed cough or nose scratch, then I think this would be a relatively safe way to experience an "auction". If nothing else, come for the free booze and admire various works of art. If you do not intend (or cannot afford) to participate - no worries, just be clear with the art team up front that you have no intention to purchase anything, and try not to let the free-flowing alcohol get to your head. You know what they say about "liquid courage"! We didn't feel any pressure to buy even though the event was sparsely attended. Evening. This was the second "evening chic" night and as the week progressed, I feel as if more people glammed up for dinner, as well as to enjoy the evening entertainment around the ship. And, boy, were we entertained on this cruise! Here's just a summary of things that we thoroughly enjoyed.. D+1. Acoustic pop covers, from the live band at Eden. Then the Coronation Concert broadcast live-streamed at the Rooftop Garden. D+2. "Arte", an immersive production show at the Theatre featuring aerialists, singers, dancers, and acrobats with a recognizable "theme", set to even more recognizable tunes. D+3. White party, on the Resort deck (though we wish more guests had joined us!). Then the featured guest singer at the Club, a more intimate setting that felt like a private concert (turns out was amazingly talented, but already disembarking the following day, and so we regret missing her Theatre shows) D+4. "Elements", another full production show at the Theatre. This show was more avant-garde, and also featured the air fountain. Both Theatre shows that we enjoyed took full advantage of the immersive LED screen in an way that is simply indescribable. D+5. Jazz Joint at the Club (probably our least favourite show as it was more aggressive "burlesque" than fun-and-interactive "speakeasy"). Then the Martini bar show, with the juggling bartenders. D+6. None - we chose to take the night off, as we were exhausted after our excursion and relaxing in the Solarium/Thermal Suite D+7. "Yes or no" Game Show feat. Luigi, the Cruise Director. Then a Pub Quiz. Then Soultown at the Club. Here's just some of the events we missed: BOTH guest singers/performers, the illusionist, the comedian, the first Silent Disco, Deal or no Deal, UEFA Champions League matches streamed live at Craft Social, Latin dance party, every acoustic act at the Sunset bar, the experimental theatre shows in Eden, movies on the Rooftop Garden.. the list goes on and on. The full list of daily activities and entertainment was incredibly varied (tip: consult your Daily Planner early and often). I am sure there was something for everyone, and it simply was not possible to see and do everything. Perhaps most entertaining of all.. Captain Dimtrios, thanks to his dry sense of humour and perfect sense of comedic timing. Sample quip: "I am Greek. From Greece. I was asked by someone today, 'what language do they speak in your country?' We're going there [on this cruise]. I said to them 'God has somehow blessed you with money to enjoy this cruise with us.'" Hilarious. Here was another, during the morning announcement: "For those of you who have asked what today's weather will be, we have setup a hotline. It's 1-800-Get-out-of-your-room. Or if you've booked a Wifi package with us, you can go to www.getoutofyourroom.com" Tips of the day: Use the Celebrity App on your phone to control settings for your room. Did you know, you can control in-room lighting and the blinds with your smartphone via the Celebrity app? The app had the same pre-set lighting modes (e.g. Movie, Sleep, etc.) as the touchscreen control panel, and also individual lamp controls so you could turn lights on without having to get up out of bed. You could also remotely heat or cool the room, so that the temperature of the room was just right before you returned to your cabin. Do not dim the lighting while your DW is in the bathroom. For obvious reasons! "Movie" mode, in particular, will dim all living room lights to a very low back-lit setting but completely turns off the lights in the bathroom (oops, sorry about that). On select sea days, Eden Cafe is open for breakfast and lunch. We found this to be a nice casual option, if you get tired of breakfast at OVC or if you want something less formal than the main dining rooms. I recommend the Steak and Egg bagel (pictured) for breakfast, and the Pork Belly sliders for lunch (DW also enjoyed the Chicken Pesto sandwich).

I'll do my best to finish the report this week! Hope you get better weather, it's a great ship / itinerary 👍

Day 6, Zakynthos. Glorious sunshine awaited us on arrival to Zakythnos. ☀️ We were well-pleased by this, as we had booked to see Shipwreck Beach by boat, our one and only ship-sponsored excursion. When booking this on the X app, Celebrity had two similar excursions available: one by speedboat and one by "regular" boat. We chose the less-expensive latter option, which turned out to be a comfortable and spacious boat equipped with a marine head (read: toilet) and a glass-bottomed section. Furthermore, since the departure point - Agios Nikoloas - is first reached by a 45MN bus ride, I didn't feel the added cost of a speedboat was warranted (consider: both groups travel by bus, at the same speed) nor would I have wanted the boat to travel any quicker than it did as we enjoyed the shoreline views to/from Navagio beach at a leisurely pace. I recall both selling out prior to departure, but perhaps the Shore Excursion desk could arrange more availability? In the end, there were two full busloads that left for Agios Nikoloas and I think we were one of the first groups to leave the ship, by tender. The bus ride was very comfortable, but recommend you take motion sickness pills as one section of road is very windy. The tour guide assigned to our bus was a great storyteller but a relatively inexperienced guide. Ask him to tell you about the history of so-and-so church, or the great earthquake, and he would regale you with a fantastic tale! On the other hand, ask him where the toilets were in Agios Nikoloas, or if there was a local pharmacy back in town, and he couldn't tell you. Did he even do a headcount, when boarding the boat? Or on the bus, for the return journey? As is customary (or at least, I'd like to imagine so) if you are a guide responsible for dozens of passengers. To this day, I'm not convinced we didn't leave someone behind! Thankfully, two bus groups joined forces and we were adopted by the other, more experienced guide, who helped corral both groups and lead us together onto the boat. The journey to the beach was informative, and the views of the rocky coastline were impressive. Shipwreck (officially, Navagio) Beach has a story - if you believe the legend, then it was a smuggler of contraband who hit bad weather and abandoned ship. Of course, most people book this trip, not for the history, but for the amazing Instagram-worthy view of the secluded beach and cove, with the aging ship in the foreground. Just a few weeks prior to departure, I learned (courtesy this ship's roll call) that the Greek government had closed the beach for safety reasons, and so it was touch-and-go if this trip would proceed at all. In fact, the excursion tickets we received in our stateroom on D+1 came with a letter giving us the option to cancel. While it is true that we were unable to disembark or swim ashore, anyone who cancelled would have missed an opportunity for a fantastic day out. In fact, IMO the view of the beach was even more impressive without a horde of sun-seeking, selfie-taking tourists on shore, as no one is allowed to step foot on the beach itself. On the return journey, favourable weather enabled us to make a few more stops - our boat captain skillfully navigated us into an assortment of caves and grottos for an up-close look. We even made a quick stop for a few brave souls to jump in, myself included. I must say, the water was .. cold! But perhaps later in the year, this would be a more refreshing (read: sensible) option? One caution: we anchored in relatively deep water (~8-10 metres deep?), and although the seas were calm, it was recommended only capable swimmers take the plunge. We were soon back to Agios Nikoloas, and onto the bus back to Zakynthos town. We asked to be dropped off in town, and made our way back on foot to the tender dock. On the way, we stopped for lunch at a family-run restaurant, Taverna Dimitris on Agiou Dionisiou (not far from the Church of Agios Dionysios, there are several restaurants in the nearby square). When I say "family-run", the daughter waited tables, the father took our order / delivered our meals, and the mother is head chef. A truly home-cooked meal. Even their young grandson helped out by leading patrons to the toilets! A short 15 minute stroll back to the tenders, and we were back on ship by mid-afternoon. Although the island itself is quite small, and I heard some complain there was not much do see and do, we really looked forward to our visit to Zakynthos.. and it did not disappoint: the excursion was great, the weather was fantastic, the local food and hospitality was authentic, even the scenic tender journey with views of the ship standing majestically offshore, all made for a perfect port day. To cap it all off, once aboard I booked a day pass visit to the Spa Thermal Suite (free for Aquaclass guests) so relaxed in quiet and peaceful bliss during the pre-dinner hour, with hardly anyone else around, as we sailed off into the sunset. Tips for the day: Room service. Rendezvous for the excursion was 7:30AM, so the night prior we arranged for early AM room service. Continental breakfast - consisting of pastries, muffins, fruit, and the like - as well as teas/coffees are still free, hot food items will set you back a $9.95 service charge (+20% gratuity). We think this is still a good option on days when you need to have an early morning start. Otherwise, head to Cafe Al Bacio for your early morning caffeine fix, it's open from 6AM. Book water-based excursions with the cruise line. As a general rule, I've always booked anything involving the water such as scuba/snorkeling, catamaran day-trips, and this visit to Shipwreck beach by boat, with the cruise line. Can you book them cheaper if done privately? Yes, of course. But (1) I've always found Celebrity Shore Excursions to be highly organized, (2) you get priority leaving the ship, which is often necessary as such trips can last a full day, and (3) the ocean is unpredictable - you just never know what might happen when out at sea, and you can never guarantee that a boat can race back to shore or to the ship (at least not as quickly as a bus or land-based tour). So the guarantee of a ship-sponsored on-the-water excursion is IMO worth the premium. Aqua class - to upgrade or not? Spa Thermal Suite access cost $82 for a 24-hour period, $239 for the entire week, or else whatever the cost of upgrading to AQ class is! I realize there are other benefits of AQ class such as Blu and upgraded in-room amenities, but is it worth booking for the unlimited access to the Thermal Suite? On a port-intensive itinerary, I don't think I would use it enough to justify the additional cost. Had the MoveUp offer been any less, I may have considered it. Note that availability of passes for non-AQ guests is limited, and perhaps if the cruise had sailed full then they would not have offered any at all. I am grateful to have tried it, and since the pass lasted 24 hours, I got to visit once in the early evening, and then again during the next day (which just so happened to be a rainy day at sea).

Day 5, Corfu. We sailed away from Montenegro with surprisingly clear skies, with hopes the good weather would accompany us to Corfu. It didn't. On arrival to the port of Corfu, clear skies thickened again with cloud. This was a good day to pack the complimentary Celebrity umbrella, and a rain coat. This was also a harbinger of the partly cloudy, partly sunny, partly rainy weather we would experience the rest of the week (thanks to climate change). For all the criticisms levied against the design of the Infinite Verandah, on this cruise we really appreciated the ability to move the window up and down according to the climate. This was the first morning that DW and I tried the Oceanview Cafe for breakfast, which was busy without feeling crowded, if that makes sense? While the ship was at less-than-capacity, we thought some areas were well designed to disperse crowds, including the OVC. I think this is partly due to the "station" setup of the buffet, and also the different seating arrangements you could choose from (traditional sit-down chairs, bar-style seating, seats overlooking the window, etc.). Our favourite spot was the area at the entranceway on the starboard side - walled off from the main seating area, and tastefully furnished, it almost felt like a private dining room. We didn't do much research about this port prior to arrival, and given the weather we certainly weren't going to do anything elaborate, so we decided in the end to just take the shuttle from port to the town centre. After breakfast, I popped down to Shore Excursions to pick up tickets (€12 per person, roundtrip) - I found this option to be very convenient and reasonably priced, although I was later told by other passengers that you could take a taxi from port that would do the same trip for €10. While enjoying breakfast on the starboard side, we hadn't even realised another ship (Viking Sea?) had moored next to us until we left the ship. One nice touch: when we returned to our cabin later that day, our stateroom attendant kindly lowered the blinds, to afford some privacy as we faced directly opposite their ship. We appreciate this attention to detail, especially since housekeeping cutbacks mean your stateroom attendant now has to do more, with less (responsible for up to 15 rooms!) The shuttle bus conveniently drops you off right next to the Old Venetian fortress, so we decided to have a look around while the crowds were still light (€6 per person). We spent an hour or so inside the fortress grounds, visiting the church of St. George and also following the incline path up to the lighthouse - the fortress is situated on a rocky promontory with great views of both the town and the sea. We were glad we did this first, as there was a long queue of tourists waiting to enter when we left. From the Old Fortress, we walked through Spaniada Square to the Liston, an esplanade that is an entranceway into the town centre. The bistros along this street have both indoor and covered al fresco dining options, so we stopped at one for a mid-morning coffee. If you enjoy people watching, this is definitely the place to be. We found staff to be very friendly, washrooms to be very clean, and the prices to be very reasonable (compared at least to Dubrovnik). We wandered along the city streets, perusing souvenir shops until a lunch stop at a local taverna that offered homemade moussaka, saganaki (fried cheese), and stuffed vine leaves. After lunch, we continued window shopping until a sudden downpour signalled our time in port was up. Cold and wet, we found our way back to the bus drop-off / pick-up point and waited a looong time for our return shuttle (I counted two Viking shuttles before one Celebrity bus finally arrived). The ride back to port only took 10-15 minutes. Once at port, a second (free) bus takes you to the ship but we opted to walk. Sure enough, it rained on us. Once aboard, I struggle to recall if we warmed up in one of the hot tubs, relaxed at the Solarium, or a cozy nap in our stateroom? Hard to believe that was only a week ago? In any event, the skies started to clear again as we set sail for our next port of call, giving us some amazing sunset views from Raw on 5, where we enjoyed a light dinner of sushi, miso soup, and homemade lobster & shrimp wontons (a la carte pricing). Tips for the day: Take a shuttle, to the shuttle. A free transfer bus takes you from the ship(s) into the port terminal. It's a 7-10 minute walk otherwise. Then, once you pass through customs/immigration at the port terminal, just follow the signs to the shuttle buses to town. I suppose that's where taxis are also waiting? Shop 'til you drop (or until it rains). We found Corfu to have a compact town centre, and lots of good souvenir shopping. Don't be afraid to wander off along the side streets, you're bound to stumble upon good finds the farther off the beaten path you go, and while you may get turned around a couple times, you can't get too lost here. What about a thank you card? We packed a thank you card (or you could just as easily buy one in a place like Corfu), with a view to writing a personal note of appreciation to a crew member we felt went the extra mile - this eventually went to our hardworking stateroom attendant (along with an extra gratuity), though a case could be made for many of the deserving crew on this ship. Don't forget to complete the survey when you get home - we were told comments go to managers, but it's the ratings that impact the crew, the most. A caution about street beggars. This was the first port that we noticed children begging on the street, and one even came up while we were enjoying coffee at the Liston. Whether you give them something is a personal choice, but even if you don't, we try and be polite unless they become belligerent. I'd like to think most are innocent and harmless, and will leave after a firm "no" - has this been your experience? For me, it was also a reminder that we are really privileged to enjoy what we enjoy. Finally, when at port remember to watch your belongings at all times.

Day 4, Kotor. Montenegro was the first port on this itinerary to require tendering. Legend has it that the straits entering the Bay of Kotor were blocked by defenders during Venetian rule with chains to prevent large ships from accessing the port. I think the ship - anchored in the middle of the bay and juxtaposed with the mountains as a backdrop - made for some picture-postcard views, more so than if it had parked up on the shorefront. And I must say: with the Destination Gateway and Magic Carpet working in tandem, Celebrity have absolutely perfected the tendering process. Disembarkation was fast and smooth, "independent travellers" without any booked excursions were invited to join the queues not long after the ship anchored; a full fleet of comfortable tender boats meant there was very little waiting time. The scenic boat trip into town took 15-20 minutes. DW and I did not book any excursions because we knew we just wanted to explore the medieval old town (think: similar to Dubrovnik, but more intimate and, I'd say, charming). We were most interested in doing the scenic hike up to the Fortress of Kotor, weather permitting. We had awoken to overcast skies looming overhead, but by the time the tender docked we could see clouds breaking and some blue skies so we went straight to the trailhead towards the back of the old town. How to get to the trailhead: the walled town is a warren of narrow streets so from the Sea Gate entrance into town, the best directions I can provide are to take any street heading uphill in the direction of the mountain and you will eventually find the archway that takes you to the turnstile entrance. Or ask the locals. Or Google "Moritz Eis", the boutique ice cream parlour that is kitty corner to the trail entrance (and also a just reward at the end of the hike). Cost is €8 per person (and it may surprise you to know, as remote as the ticket booth may seem, they gladly accept card payments). The hike to the fortress takes approximately 1 hour, and is many, many steps. There is an angled cobblestone / loose gravel ramp adjacent to the steps almost the entire way up, but this can be quite slippery when wet. About one-third of the way up, you will stumble upon a scenic overlook in front of the Church of our Lady Remedy. The views here are as good as they are at the top, so if you're only interested in a photo op then this would be a fine stopping point. I'd suggest you do the rest of the hike to the fortress for the exercise, or else the thrill or satisfaction of reaching the top, but not necessarily for better views. DW stopped at the church, and patiently waited while I hiked to the top, and she didn't miss anything. On a warmer sunny day, bring plenty of water. Now is a good time to mention: while you do not need a guide, at every other switchback along the trail it seems as if a cute cat with googly eyes will kindly greet you and volunteer to lead you a stretch of the way before motioning you onwards with a soft purr, or encouraging 'meow'. How the locals have trained these furry, feline companions to look cute and pose for pictures, I do not know. I'm not even a cat lover, but you have to admit.. they're adorable! They're also everywhere. Cats on the window sill. Cats in front of souvenir shops. Cats lounging in all the public squares. A stowaway. One particular kitten, sitting meekly in the middle of a cobblestone street, caught our attention, as well as that of another lady who happened to be carrying a bag of cat treats. I thought that somewhat strange, for someone by sheer coincidence to carry treats around with them? Even stranger, she was obviously not a local. In fact, on closer examination, she was wearing a Celebrity Beyond fleece so must have been onboard with us, perhaps even part of the crew? As we got up to leave, I looked even closer and thought 'boy, does she look familiar' so I asked, innocently, "Wait, are you with the ship?" She replied "Yes". And then it dawned on me where I recognised her. "Are you Captain Kate?", I asked excitedly. She smiled and nodded. Lo and behold, I was talking to Captain Kate! It suddenly dawned on me, those treats must've belonged to Bug Naked. 🐈‍⬛ It all made sense, now. Except it didn't. Captain Demetrios had been introduced as captain on D+1, so what was Captain Kate doing aboard? She kindly explained that she was on vacation, and stayed on the ship so she could actually visit some of the ports that they would sail to later this season. In some technically challenging ports such as Kotor, the captain is required to stay aboard for safety reasons. Consequently, on this cruise, we had a very noticeable stowaway, of sorts. 🙃 At the time, DW was unaware of Captain Kate's celebrity (no pun intended). So, as if speaking to just an ordinary member of staff, DW was genuinely effusive about how much she was enjoying her very first cruise. We both admitted to Captain Kate that a "high bar" of expectation had been set by the ship. Most of all, she seemed to really enjoy hearing how much we appreciated the care and attention of all the crew. Since she was on vacation, we left it at that and didn't request to take a selfie, but I think this anecdote just underscores how approachable all the officers and crew were.. including their most recognizable captain! Tips for the day: Local Farmers market and supermarket. Don't miss the local vegetable market just outside the old town wall. If you proceed farther along the wall, you will eventually pass the remains of a moat and drawbridge entrance into the Old Town. Beyond that, at the next intersection, is an Idea supermarket where you will find candy, snacks, water or drinks (at local, non-tourist prices). From there, it is a short stroll along the promenade back to the tender dock. Be patient with the tendering process. As smooth as it was, docking manoeuvres can be complex. For example, our tender captain had to circle a few times before lining up for a smooth connection to the Magic Carpet. Please adhere to all safety instructions from the crew. You may also need to be a little patient, and note that the tender isn't well ventilated, so on hot days suggest you carry some water. The port of Kotor is very doable on your own. Some may disagree, but it didn't seem to me as if there was much else to do in this port but explore the Old Town? It will not take you very long to do so. We were told by others back on the ship that Budva beach was only 20 minutes away, so maybe that would be an option? Otherwise, just enjoy the leisurely pace of a visit to Kotor (as we did).