Richard in Panama

Colon 2000, which is a brief connected walk next to Homeport, has a number of little cafes and restaurants with wi-fi. Just buy something. No "Internet cafe" per se. Generally just watch where crew head to find Internet. Regards, Richard

Hmmm. Carnaval is over ... I suspect dredging issue in Culebra Cut forcing single lane traffic. Most cruise ships pick up the pilot around 5 am, so it looks like it was late starting the transit. Regards, Richard

I am the original poster and just happened to see that this thread is still active. I went back and forth on whether or not to do the ferry excursion and after reading a number of helpful responses to my question decided to try it. You can find more details in my trip report ("Coral Princess Review and Thanks"), but to quickly sum it up, I was very happy with the excursion and it ended up being the highlight of the cruise for me. Heat was not an issue, the lunch was excellent, the day was not long and most importantly the perspective from a small ferry was completely different than from a ship. I am 64 years old.

Glad you had a great time! The difference in perspective IS amazing! Regards, Richard

I'm back on terra firma on our coffee farm in our little town of Boquete, Panama [About 40 km from the Costa Rican border up in the Chiriqui Mountains. Reading through this thread I'd make these observations:

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  Thanks Bill for the plug! There are SO MANY QUESTIONS folks have about the Panama Canal and booking a cruise! Which is exactly why I wrote PANAMA CANAL DAY: AN ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO CRUISING THE PANAMA CANAL. The book answers most of the questions and provides a great history of Panama as a country, the building of the Canal, and the present day operation and expansion. McCullough's book [The Path between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal, 1870-1914] is a great history, rather long with lots of footnotes, but, as the title indicates, only covers 1870 to 1914. So much happened BEFORE and AFTER, and I've tried to include the entire story in a succinct and very readable manner.
   
  My choice of the "best" itinerary would be one that transits the ENTIRE Canal ["transit" as opposed to "turn-around"] AND has a full day stop in Panama, preferably Panama City [a/k/a "Fuerte Amador" or Amador]. Princess has a 2 day Panama itinerary that does just that.
   
  A transit that does not include the opportunity to get off the ship and experience some of Panama would be like taking a cruise that sailed into New York harbor but didn't stop to allow you to see the Big Apple, or sailed into Venice, but didn't let you off the ship. Big disadvantage of typical "transit" itinerary: you see the Canal but miss Panama. The "turn-around" itinerary [typically 10 days round-trip from Florida] lets you book a shore excursion through the ship [Canal rules, not cruise lines trying to sell tours], disembark on Gatun Lake and see some of Panama. Trust me, the return through Gatun Locks is identical and those who do stay on the ship are often in the gym, spa, or playing bridge.
   
  The best view of the locks is from the deck of a cruise ship. If you aren't going to transit the entire Canal, then if you interest is primarily the Canal, I would suggest the Canal ferry boat tour. Nice, but simple boat. Nice, typical Panamanian buffet, commentary, shade. Nothing fancy, but a tour boat.
   
  
   
  I'd take a careful look at the design of the ship and the policies of the cruise line. What interior spaces are available for guests to watch the transit? [One ship I did the ONLY place inside was in the buffet area, crowded with tables and people. And they didn't open until 5:30 am, thirty minutes after we started the Canal transit.] Is the bow of the ship accessible to guests, or is it full of equipment, has outer shell walls too high to see over, or is it reserved for the crew? How much "fuss" does the ship make about Canal Day. It IS after all the reason why people book a Canal cruise. Does the ship look on Canal Day as a hassle and inconvenience to THEM, or do they go all out to make it a memorable experience for the guests? [i recently wrote about all this and posted pics on my RichardinPanama blog.]
   
  One ship ...
   
  
   
  Another ship ...
   
  
   
  What kind of build up to Panama Canal Day does the ship provide? Typically when I'm on board I'll do three lectures leading up to the big day. And what kind of commentary/narrative does the cruise line provide when you are transiting the Canal? I was shocked on a recent cruise to have a lady tell me that on her last trip through the Canal, on a big fancy cruise line, they did not provide ANY commentary or narration. Normally this is from the bridge where I can see what is happening on all sides and if something different or unusual is happening the Pilot can point it out and I can share it with the guests. On my last trip, due to a draconian "new policy" [because some Captain decided to play chicken with an island in Italy], the port lecturer isn't allowed on the bridge, so I had to give my commentary from the only inside viewing area that had mic access, with this view taken while we were in the locks!
   
  
   
  

Unfortunately the perfect cruise line and perfect Canal itinerary doesn't exist, however, the more you know, read and research, the happier you will be with your Panama Canal Day, which for many people is the trip of a lifetime!

Regards, Richard

I would agree with CB on several accounts. Yes, you get the best view of the existing locks from the ship going through. However, you do not see the construction of the new Atlantic Lock complex. The tours include both observation complexes.

While I agree with CB that to be on the ship, with half or more of the guests out exploring Panama, is nice, however ... the trip back through the locks on a turn around itinerary is EXACTLY the same. Unless you want to work out in the gym, play Bridge, or something, having seen the same thing 2 hours before isn't very exciting. Not to get off the ship would be like sailing into New York Harbor and never getting off to see the Big Apple, or sailing into Sydney and staying on the ship. You've come all this way, why not see something of Panama???

Assuming you are on a turnaround itinerary, you will have to book the tour through the ship. It's the only option. The Canal, like an airport, is a secure area and only pre-screened guides and drivers are allowed in the area where the ship disembarks guests on tour.

If on the other hand you ship is just stopping in Colon ... again Colon sucks big time! There is nothing there but a few shops, and you DON'T want to walk around Colon for your own safety. So take a tour. If you haven't seen anything of the Canal, the lock tour might be a good idea (or if you're a little more adventurous get a cab driver to take you out and remain with you until you're ready to come back) or, if you really want to experience something of the Canal, take the Canal Ferry all day tour.

Regards, Richard

The Canal is the Canal. It doesn't change based on the ship you use.

CruiserBruce I beg to differ with you!

For some cruise lines Canal Day, although mostly people book a Panama Canal cruise FOR the Panama Canal (Dah!), appears to be more of an inconvenience for the ship and crew than an event for the guests.

Some cruise lines provide great, informative lectures and information in a leadup to Canal Day, and others don't. Some ships provide commentary as you are going through the Canal, others don't. I'm just back from a stint doing lectures on the Canal for 2.5 months, and a lady came up to me and said, "I'm so glad for the programs and commentary! The last cruise line we were on, going through the Canal, nobody gave any commentary or said what was going on."

The design of the ship itself makes a big difference. Just advertising a "ship designed for the Panama Canal" may just mean it's the largest ship to be able to go through the Canal (i.e. a "Panamax" ship), but does not necessarily mean it is designed for guests to enjoy the Canal experience. Some ships open the fore deck for passengers during the transit. Other ships reserve this prime viewing spot for the crew, while the passengers cram into whatever other space is available. Some ships are designed so that the fore deck is inaccessible because it's jammed with winches, etc., or the steel walls are too high to be able to see anything.

The glass walls that protect guests from wind on the upper deck when they lay out to sun themselves, become a real hassle on Canal day. It's often difficult to see through the glass, or get a good photo, or you and everyone else is trying to squeeze your camera, iPhone or iPad into a 6" space between glass panels.

Some ships have really good inside areas for watching the action up front, and others don't. It all depends on the design of the ship. Some ships have windows that are slanted in such a way that all you see is moisture and steamed over windows. And it's on the outside where no body can deal with it, not on the inside.

Some ships put out coffee for guests up early so they don't miss a thing and others rigidly adhere to their schedules without consideration for the guests. One cruise line even has created what they claimed to be a historical "Panama Roll" for the day. Another cruise line not only opens the foredeck but puts out chairs and tents to shield guests from the sun.

Some cruise lines are stuck in the past, running and rerunning, David McCullough's "A Man, A Plan, A Canal" ... great video when it was made ... 28 years ago! It was shot on Royal Viking: Royal Viking disappeared in 1998. A lot has happened in Panama and with the Panama Canal since!

So, yes, it DOES make a difference, a big difference!

ONLY inside area to look forward on this ship was the buffet lounge, which didn't open until 5:30 am, when we picked up our pilot at 5 am. This picture was taken when we were actually entering into the first set of locks!

Inside viewing area on another ship.

Open fore deck on one ship ...

Closed and cluttered with equipment on another ...

Those glass windows on the upper deck, while great at sea, aren't so great on Canal day.

Have to hand it to ZUIDERDAM (I don't like naming names, but since it's blatantly all over the tents) ... making Canal day an event for the guests ... bar service, coffee, Panama rolls, chairs, tents all starting at 5 am.

How do you find out this stuff? Good luck! The cruise line booking folks are there to sell and book, and generally they don’t know and can’t find out an accurate answer. Folks who have done a few Canal cruises have only their limited experience on which to base their expertise. I work for all these guys, so I can’t use names, and frankly every cruise line has some real advantages and a few negatives. All I can say is read, read, read. Follow all the blogs. Look at all the pictures on line people post about their Canal trips: you’ll see some where for example the fore deck is empty and others where the fore deck is filled with guests.

Regards, Richard

The Panama Railway tour might be ideal. You board the train in Colon. Short bus transfer to station, and only a few steps up to board the train. Train takes about 2 hours across to Balboa where you disembark on a platform - no steps, walk down a ramp to board the bus again. Various tours offer some additional bus tour around old Panama Canal Zone areas before returning back to ship. Gives you a chance to see some of Panama. The railway is designed to move containers so isn't necessarily a route right next to the Canal, but you do see nice glimpses of the Canal and some of the adjoining areas, and pass through some jungle where, according to one cruise line's description you can "look for sloths, monkeys and toucans" ... as the train whizzes along! You can "look" all you want! The dome car is usually sold out in advance for a premium price. I'm not sure the dome car itself is worth it. The regular cars are very nice and the view is pretty much the same. It's an easy and comfortable way to see some of Panama while you are here.

Regards, Richard

The close-in "villages", sometimes packaged in with a number of other things, are mostly demonstration villages set up for tourism. Regards, Richard

The Colon Free Zone, second largest in the world, is primarily a Latin American distribution point for everything ... Caterpillar parts can be brought into Panama duty free, stored in the Free Zone, the shipped out as needed. Same for everything else. Goods can be imported in less than final form, labeled and packaged, in and out, no tax. All of the ads for the Free Zone are targeted not to the general public who can't get in, but to buyers who are in Panama to buy big quantities ... think a container load of jeans, etc. There are a few small units that will sell retail but finding them is a challenge. Think a good-sized city to itself with warehouse after warehouse. I can't imagine, even if you could get in, that it would be anything but a waste of your precious time in Panama.

The Free Zone is a neat thing for Panamanian retailers. They keep limited, or very little inventory. You want to buy a stove ... other than a display model ... the store orders it out of the free zone from the manufacturer not having to pay taxes until its taken out, or tie up money in their own inventory, or have their own warehouse.

It just isn't for cruise passengers ... try St. Maarten instead which has become, unfortunately IMHO, a giant mall.

Regards, Richard

Hey Richard,

 

When will you be on the Island? We're sailing February 19th!

 

Thanks, Denise & Sam

Denise & Sam, Nov 11 - Jan 20 ... sorry I will miss you! Regards, Richard

It's too bad the Princess ships don't seem to stop at the pier at Colon any more. There was a great craft market at the old pier. The ships don't seem to have the excursions available leaving from Gatun Lake that were picked up at the pier.

The old pier was demolished several years ago to make room for more container space. I agree, the Indigenous craft market was a great loss.

On the turn-around cruises, like ISLAND PRINCESS, that are 10-11 days from Fort Lauderdale, the ships still go through Gatun Locks, drop off people for excursions while in Gatun Lake, return through Gatun Locks, and pick up folks on excursions in Colon.

Regards, Richard

I think you would do best given your situation on a private tour, just for you. They can be arranged but of course doing a tour for two people will be a lot more expensive, but I would think it can be done. I'm quite sure you could not do it through the ship. You might contact Anne Gordon at EmberaVillageTours.com and see what she says. Regards, Richard

Don, I know you will have a fantastic time! I'll be in the Canal on ISLAND PRINCESS Jan 15th ... one day late, otherwise we could wave at one another! Thanks for all your nice comments about my book. Bon voyage! Regards, Richard

Typically cruise ships are on station at 4-4:30 am. Pilots are scheduled to come on board 5-5:30 am. The ship is usually entering the lock chambers 6:30-7:30 am. Nothing goes absolutely like clockwork. If the ship ahead of you takes longer it influences your timing. Larger, bulk carriers can take longer. BillB can chime in from experience.

To think in terms of claiming your spot is wrong because you want to move around all day and not be glued to a particular spot. There is no one "best" spot. If you stay in the same place you'll miss a lot. Respectfully I'd suggest you do your own thing in the morning, then in late afternoon get together as a group, share and celebrate!

It's your cruise so you can get up whenever you want ... or sleep all day.

I LOVE being up at 5 am and seeing the glow of the locks in the distance, maybe if we're coming in from the Atlantic side trying to see the Southern Cross over the entrance to the Bay, watching the pilots and Canal officials come on board, seeing the last of the night time convoy ships come past, and most of all watching the sun come up. It's magical! When I'm doing the ship I'm on the Bridge at 5 am and there are always people on the fore deck and I'll start pointing out what's happening.

Don, which ship are you on again and when?

Regards, Richard

JimAOk1945 ... I'll be on ISLAND and look forward to meeting you and other CC folks. I'll show you where to get the best views! Regards, Richard

Not to worry ... all taken care of. The cruise line sends the passenger list to the Canal and immigration authorities long before you get there. Just relax and enjoy!! Regards, Richard

Positively NO. Regards, Richard

Thanks Richard. Yes, I really like what I have seen about visiting a village with Anne and I am likely to book with her. I am just hoping to get some input on Garceth's tour as well so I can have something to compare. Also really hoping to see some pics. I'm bit leery about Garceth's though because I know he goes to a village further out. I'll be going in March (arriving in Colon) which I understand is near the end of the dry season so I'm a bit worried about the time factor. I've read that it takes a lot longer to go down river at this time.

 

I will be in port 7AM - 5PM local time. If I go with Anne, do you know if there will be time to go see the locks, even for only 10-15 mins.? I don't really have much of an interest in them, but feel like it would be such a shame to be so close & not at least get a peek at the canal since I'm not likely to have the chance to be that way again.

 

Richard, thanks for your website. I have really enjoyed reading it.

Bluemoon, Thanks for the compliment! If the river is too low the tours adjust and go to villages closer in. The rivers feed Madden Lake which is used when the Canal needs additional water to operate, so, when needed the Canal can pull off several feet of water during the night. In Panama you always need a "Plan B" and the tour operators all have alternate plans ... for everything! Both Anne's tour and I suspect Garceth's go to villages further out, and really take up most of the day. If there is time for a quick stop at the Canal is a question for the tour operators. Regards, Richard

Anne Gordon is married to an Embera guy from Embera Puru, and they go to visit his village. You'll meet her inlaws. What could be better? I think if you work your way through this thread you'll find lots of comments from people who've taken the tour through Anne. REgards, Richard

So what is the story on the San Blas people. Are they still a viable tribe. I know they depended on the cruise tourism in the 80's for help ecomomically. I hope they are doing well.

The folks living on the San Blas islands are the Kuna or Cuna and now Guna Indigenous group. Although comparitively small in number, they are a very powerful political force in Panama.In the 1920s they actually went to war with Panama to establish their independent area known as Kuna Yala, or now Guna Yala. Only a few cruise ships call at the San Blas islands. The usual reason is that the Guna leaders felt the ships were causing the erosion of their traditional culture, which I'm sure is true, but I suspect there was also the issue of how much revenue the local Guna people were actually getting off the cruise ship visits.

Regards, Richard

There’s a lot of talk about the much-hyped Nicaragua Canal which is supposed to start construction by the end of this year. And Egypt, which seems to have trouble getting its country together, has announced plans for a new, larger Suez Canal. Well, not only is Egypt having trouble getting its country together, but …

Egypt issued a new stamp to celebrate it’s plan for a new expanded Suez Canal. Look carefully …

That’s right … in their haste to get the stamp out they used an image of the PANAMA Canal!

Ooops!

Regards, Richard

Richard...

 

Years ago when I did the Panama Canal cruise, we stopped at the San Blas Islands to see the San Blas people.

 

It was an amazing trip and my daughters still remember the San Blas people and their island.

Are they still there and doing well?

I wish we were going there again in January.

 

Don

 

PS: I did a review of your book on Amazon....hope you are pleased.

VERY pleased! Glad you liked the book: thank you! Have a wonderful trip! Regards, Richard

What kind of weather can I expect mid to the end of September doing this kind of tour?

Panama is 9 degrees off the Equator so it's always hot and humid in the lowlands. September is one of our rainiest months, so expect some rain. Not necessarily a "rainy day" but a downpour sometime, probably in the afternoon. Rain is a fact of life this time of year, but don't let it discourage you. It's warm rain, no big deal and life goes on. Take a rain poncho and wear shoes that you don't mind getting wet or muddy. I've seen folks come back to the ship looking like drowned rats with big smiles on their faces saying, "Richard, that was the best tour ... ever!" A big plus is that there should be lots of water in the river enabling you to easily reach the more remote, authentic villages like Embera Puru.

Regards, Richard

Richard,

Can we do the train oneway then get a bus/shuttle/cab back to Colon? I have spent a few months in Panama and traveled around some of the country, mostly Rio Hato, David, Pedasi and in between. I was looking forward to the train since it is such a part of the canal history, but when looking at the ships options none are that great. I looked at your website and other options are the Embera village tour with Anne or the lake Safari with Capt Carl.

 

We are doing a full transit East to West, if that makes a difference for your answer

Sfdtiller, I did see your question, directed to me, and spent considerable time answering it, as I do generally on this board. My answer was deleted and I received a warning that as a "local" I cannot make recommendations. Bill, who lives in Panama City, Florida can make recommendations because he is not a local. I do not live in Panama City, Panama, but 7 hours away in Boquete on the Chiriqui border, so I am not any more a "local" than someone who lives in New York, USA is a "local" in regard to San Francisco, USA. I don't have any financial arrangement with anyone in Panama City or elsewhere, and just spend time on this bulletin board to help you all, my CC friends, to have a fantastic cruise. I just wanted you to know that I did answer your question August 31 and the post was removed and August 31 I was told as a "local" I could not ... whatever.

Regards to you and other cruisers out there! Have a great cruise!

Regards, Richard

PS - And Bill, like a lot of other former Canal employees living in Panama City, Florida, does know what he is talking about.

I have emailed Anne and await her reply, but would like to inquire if you know what Celebrity tour might offer the opportunity to visit an Embera Village?

Have no idea what Celebrity is currently offering. To visit one of the authentic villages, and Embera Puru would be my choice, it is an all day trip. Some shore excursions which include a visit to an Embera village are visiting a close in demonstration village. Anne would be my first choice. I'm sure she will get back to you. Her family are Embera Puru and I know you will have a great experience. REgards, Richard