Richard in Panama

Thanks SeaGal! There are one or two companies that almost all of the cruise lines use for tours, even although the tour names may be slightly different. Glad you enjoyed the tour and got an opportunity to see the construction. When the Canal was originally being built, people came from around the world just to see it under construction!

Regards, Richard

Richard's book about cruising the Panama Canal has some useful information, but suffers from a severe lack of editing. For me, the misspelled words, poorly worded sentences and poor punctuation made it almost unreadable."

Thank you Sambamama! Some of the things I've learned: don't be your own lawyer, don't be your own dentist, don't be your own doctor, and don't be your own editor. Painful, but true! This is why I haven't been around the Panama board of CC lately! I've totally redone THE NEW ESCAPE TO PARADISE with lots of eagle-eyed editors and proof readers, and am currently working on redoing the Canal book. I promise the new book will be much, much better!

When we owned travel agencies we always gave clients who booked Panama Canal cruises a copy of David McCullough’s definitive Panama Canal book, The Path Between The Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal 1870-1914. It took me a while to realize that, although it is the definitive story of the Canal, it is also a long and heavily footnoted historical tome, so few people actually read it. Since 1914, over a million ships have passed through the Canal, it has be returned to the people of Panama, and is in the process of being massively expanded.

I’ve always been amazed at how many cruise ships continue to play McCullough’s video about the Canal … which was filmed on a Royal Viking ship. A lot has happened with the Panama Canal since Royal Viking went out of business in 1998.

While lecturing on ships transiting the Canal I realized that there was a need for a simpler, more readable, and current book written for cruise passengers that included information about the Canal as well as information about Panama. I've been trying for a book that would be helpful to folks planning a Panama Canal trip as well as serve as a guide during the voyage.

I remember one time when I had just completed a lecture in the show lounge on a ship scheduled to transit the Canal. After the talk, as I walked out of the lounge, I was behind two ladies, both in their early 60s and I overhead one say to the other, “I didn’t know the Canal was man made.” Here these gals were, taking the “bucket list”, trip-of-a-lifetime through one of the great wonders of the world, and they didn’t have a clue!

The more you know about Panama and its unique place in the world, and the history and role of the Canal, the more your will enjoy your cruise through the Canal.

A good trip has three memorable parts: anticipating and planning, taking the trip, and reliving the experience when you get home. Preparing and reading before you go will help you understand the history of Panama and its Canal, let you know what to expect, and, if you have a port call in Panama, know what there is to see and do. The Canal is special, and I want you to fully enjoy and appreciate your voyage.

So read as many books as you can and get as much information before hand as possible. If you like to read, I'd recommend THE PATH BETWEEN THE SEAS, understanding that it is by definition about the Canal construction up through 1914, not all the history since. I also really like PANAMA FEVER.

Regards, Richard

I don't know of any of the steam shovels, but there is an old crane outside the Mc Donald's in Balboa just below the Panama Canal HQ building. Regards, Richard

I'm pleased to see that Princess has just announced the 2012-2013 Winners of the Caribbean Panama Canal Shore Excursion Awards as determined by passenger feedback on tours, and the Authentic Embera Indian Village Tour was one of two winners for Panama.

Regards, Richard

Only because no one has mentioned it CRUISING THE PANAMA CANAL by Detrich (Ahem!) is designed especially for cruise passengers in the Canal and is available on Kindle. Kind of hour by hour what you are going to see and background and history. Readable. Not the end-all be-all historical tome, which Mc Cullough really is, but gives you the vital information. Lots of folks like it. Have a great cruise! Regards, Richard

I'd always choose a Waldorf over a Radison or Westin. Regards, Richard

I'd take bottled water from the ship. The Embera are smart folks and they know that if a tour of guests go back to the ship sick from the Embera tour, they won't continue to get tourists. Fresh fish from the river Tilapia is fried as are the plantains, so no problem there. Do what you like with the fresh fruit. It 's not like it's street fruit, its from someones kitchen, how be it a humble kitchen, no Viking or Wolf equipment. How refreshing is that! Regards, Richard

Richard - You aren't on the Zuiderdam next week by any chance are you - leaving Friday Nov 29. I too am concerned about the dugouts - hip problem and have difficulty sitting on low flat surfaces with no back support and my legs stretched out in front of me. I've watched the two videos posted and am still not sure if the seating matches what I describe or if it is a little raised and has some back support. Would appreciate your input if you have time. Thank you.

Wish I were going on ZUIDERDAM with you. There is no back support. Most of the seats its not possible to stretch your legs out in front........ Depending the the severity of your hip problem . . . I don't know. Tough choice. Hope it works out for you. Regards, Richard

Richard - I have a couple more questions:

 

1) what is the river like now? we will be in Cristobal on Tuesday, December 17th.

 

2) Do you know which "dock" MSC will use as Panama is not a normal stop for them.

 

3) We will be in port from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm - I don't know if that is ship's time or local time and when we must be back on the ship --- with that said some of my fellow passengers are worried about making it back to the ship on time. Your thoughts?

 

4) If we book a "private tour" with Anne - will we still have a few minutes to shop for things like, local whole bean coffee?

 

Thanks,:):)

 

Tom

Hey Tom! The river to Embera Puru should be no problem since this is the height of the rainy season and there is lots of water in the Canal, Gatun Lake, Madden lake and the river. Madden Lake or Lake Alajuela and Chagres National Park are all part of the Panama Canal watershed. If the water gets low in Gatun they pull water out of Madden Lake, sometimes several feet overnight, which especially during the dry season can cause the river to Embera Puru to drop. Not a problem in December. If fact the Canal problem sometimes is that there is too much water and they have to open the gates at Gatun Dam. More than you want to know, but interesting.

Docking in Colon there are only two cruise ship docks, Colon 2000 and Home Port which are almost next to one another. There are some touristy shops and a Super 99 supermarket there as well. You can also order some great coffee online - Boquete coffee like we grow from http://boquetepanamacoffee.com/. Sometimes on transit cruises between LA and Florida they will offer Cafe Britt for sale. It's actually a very good deal and includes shipment to your home in US or Canada. You can also order online from Cafe Britt. The best coffee in Panama is from Boquete, although in the store it isn't identified as such, just our local coffee. In Costa Rica the stuff in the grocery store isn't that great, but the really good stuff is Tarrazu and the price if you live in US or Canada is good. I grow coffee and whenever I'm on a ship stopping at Puntarenas my wife always has me bring home Tarrazu.

Anne and the other independent tour operators all understand the cruise schedules and frankly I've never hear of a tour independent tour operator not getting folks back on time. Sometimes happens on ship tours because the ship tour operators know the ship won't leave without them so they can cut it close. Independents know they need to have you back a bit early, and usually with vans they can take shortcuts around traffic on side streets that the big tour buses can't.

Have a great trip! Richard

I am considering doing the Panama Canal Ferry excursion with the ship. But it says 1 1/2 hr. bus ride both ways. Concerned about the length. Bumpyness, bathroom break? etc.:confused: Has anyone been on this excursion who can tell me about the bus rides. Thanks in advance

The ferry is simple, nothing like the ship, but it is a good experience to see the Canal, the locks, Gaillard cut, etc. When I did it they had a simple, but good, buffet of typical Panamanian food. Not luxurious by any means, but you are so up-close-and-personal that you can reach out and touch the sides of the locks.

There are no bathrooms on the bus. In an emergency, in Panama, it is culturally acceptable for guys to pull off the road and solve the problem. For women it is a bit more challenging. In an emergency the bus driver will generally find a place, but don't expect a spotless restroom and take your own TP. Best bet: no second cup of coffee and go just before you leave the ship.

You can generally psych out when your tour is about to be called, and then make a quick bathroom stop on the ship before leaving. Even, don't say I told you this, but you can generally do as I do, hit a bathroom on the way to the disembarkation spot. Tour buses almost always have to wait a few minutes. Regards, Richard

What I heard from others is that the cruise ship tour to Embera Village is only to a "staged" Village and not the real deal. It is definitely a tourist trap - not an authentic village.

Irish one - You must be talking with little people after a few pints . . . There are about 7 different Embera villages, each with 125-150 people, that are used for tours. There is also a demonstration-type village close in. Take a tour that includes a whole bunch of things, including an Embera Village, and it will be the touristy one. Of all the villages that are used San Juan de Pequini is the most authentic, but it is also one of the farthest out and a full day trip. Often the shore ex people don't have a clue as to which village they use. On their all-day Authentic Embera Village Tours Princess and Holland America generally use San Juan de Pequini, however at the end of the dry season, particularly in May, sometimes the river is too low for the boats to navigate and so they have to use another village. Anne Gordon, as I mentioned [http://www.Emberavillagetours.com] does do independent tours to San Juan de Pequini Embera Puru because that is where her husband's family life. You can help the ship shore ex people, who may not know to which village the tour is going, by asking, "How long is the canoe ride?" If it is 5 minutes, or 15 minutes you are going to one of the close in and IMHO less authentic villages. If it is 40-50 minutes you are likely going upriver to Embera Puru.

There is a great series of pictures on Flickr that were taken at Embera Puru which will help you decide if you want to take this excursion. There are great shots of the canoes, the height of the climb from the boats/river to the village, and the people.

REgards, Richard

Balcony may have nice advantages on a cruise generally, but for the Canal you aren't going to want to be in your stateroom but out and about all over the ship for the ultimate Canal experience. You get different perspectives from all over the ship, so plan to move about. Regards, Richard

Good video Bill. These are dug out of BIG trees! "Full figured' can mean lots of things but a lot of cruise pax are full figured. You'll have more sitting space on an Embera dug out canoe than on your ship lifeboat should you ever need it? Ever see how small the "seat" is to cram 150 or more folks in a lifeboat?

The bigger problem I've found is knees and getting up after sitting for 45 minutes, but the guys are very helpful to help you in and out of the boat. The villages are build up a slope next to the river to keep them from flooding out during the rainy season. Again, you'll find these folks very welcoming and anxious to help. Go and enjoy!!

Take old shoes that you don't mind getting wet or muddy if it rains.s

Regards, Richard

I will be in Panama in mid-December aboard a cruise ship and I am looking for a private tour of the above Embera Indian Village.

Anne Gordon http://www.Emberavillagetours.com Anne is a Gringa who is married to an Embera man from this village. Interesting story of how they met, but they can tell you. They do tours to their village and that makes it extra special. Regards, Richard

We will be in Panama for 3 days/2 nights, so would renting a car at the port and do-it-yourself be a safe option?

NO! Driving around Colon is frustrating and could be dangerous to your health. If you are leaving Colon/Panama City area and headed off outside the city, fine, but you have to be nuts to drive in Panama City. Really! It's tough to find your way around, signage is poor, and right now the city is all ripped up with subway construction, overhead road construction, and new sewers all being put in at once.

I'd use Mario or some other independent operator which you arrange in advance. You might find a van that could take you and be able to negotiate at the pier. But with all the hassles of disembarking it would be easier just to know you have something lined up.

Regards, Richard

Typically if you get a little splash it feels great: remember Panama is hot and humid! All of the authentic villages sit above the rivers so they don't get flooded out or washed away during the rainy season. It's a gradual uphill walk, something like going from one deck on board to another, but the Embera people are happy to give you a hand if you need it. The tougher thing for old geezers like me is typically the knees and getting up after sitting on a low seat in a dug out canoe for 45 minutes, but here again, the guys are always eager to give you a hand. It's likely going to rain sometime during the day during the Canal cruising season, even if a brief rain, or maybe a downpour. Take along a folding plastic poncho! Incredibly I've never seen these offered for sale in gift shops on board! Lyposuction, teeth whitening, you name it is for sale, but no ponchos! Another thing that seems rare in the ship stores is mosquito repellant. You probably won't need it, but it's nice to be able to guy on board if you've forgotten. It will probably be a little muddy, particularly if it rains, so don't wear you best shoes.

BUT . . . I remember coming back to the ZUIDERDAM with a group who frankly looked like drowned rats . . . soaking wet, feet all muddy, and one lady saying, "Richard, that was the best experience OF MY LIFE!" So what's a little rain, spray, or mud?

Go . . . enjoy . . . these are great people and you will have a great adventure.

Regards, Richard

It has always amazed me, on the ships that open the foredeck to guests [and not all do - sometimes it's a "crew only" area because you have to access it through crew areas, other times the foredeck has equipment that is in use during the transit or just was never designed for guests to safely be in the area - HAL generally does allow guests onto the foredeck and even serves coffee and "Panama Rolls" there] . . . but it's always amazed me to walk onto the bridge at 5 am, intending to start talking when the pilot comes on board, to see just how many folks are on the foredeck waiting. And it really is a magical time, with the sun coming up, etc. Being there at the start just adds to the magic and wonder of the day. Of course it's your cruise, so sleep in as late as you want. The other thing that's always amazed me is by afternoon . . . most folks are working out in the gym, playing bridge, sitting by the pool or sleeping and hardly anyone is at the railing!

Bottom line: not to worry! It will be a magical time. In the public areas, like the Crows Nest on some HAL ships, or the front lounge on Princess ships, yes, folks will get there early to be front and center, but you can always look over their heads and the real way to see the Canal is NOT to sit and stay put but to move around the ship.

Regards, Richard

JPL619 - Welcome to Cruise Critic! It IS expensive to use the Canal and since the Canal was turned back to Panama it has become very profitable. Panama has been designated as the 2nd wealthiest country in Latin America, in part, but only in part, because of the Canal. Panama's central location, the fact that the Canal makes it the "crossroads of the world", a booming international airport, the second largest free port in the world (second only to Hong Kong), enormous infrastructure projects (including the Canal expansion) all contribute to a booming economy. The economic boom, the devaluation of the US $, the high cost of oil all contribute to inflation which mans the fees charged to use the Canal increase along with everything else. Regardless of how the cost of using the Canal is factored into cruise ticket prices, to be able to experience this marvel of engineering that has been running smoothly now for almost 100 years, is a not-to-be-missed experience!

Regards, Richard

Thanks for the info Bill. It seems that the Panama govt has all cruise lines over a barrel knowing how much money they take in on each cruise. The fact that Princess is also charging over $300 supports my post that now, ALL cruise lines are gouging us on those fees, LOL I do understand that a cruise line is all about profit, but a half a million profit on the Canal fee? Once again, LOL

To put things into perspective . . .

ALL cruise lines are looking for every possible way to increase revenue while trying to keep competitive rates.

Most importantly, the business of the Canal is moving freight, i.e. containers, etc., and not people. The cruise transits are a very VERY small part of the Canal business, and frankly, some folks at the Canal would say they are more trouble than they are worth. Cruise ships are given, and they pay for, priority status, so they are assured of a slot and are pushed through the Canal in minimum time without needing to tie up, or wait for long periods. So the "Panama govt", or ACP as the case may be, really doesn't have anyone "over a barrel".

Regards, Richard

You're right, dengue is a major problem throughout Latin America and the Caribbean, which is why Panama is so intent on controlling the mosquito population.

Sweet, you just must be extra sweet so the bugs love you!

When you go ashore good idea to take along some repellant, but on the ship transiting the Canal it won't be a problem. Mosquitoes don't like any breeze which is why with a fan above the bed in the tropics we never get mosquitoes.

Regards, Richard

Gee, all this talk about drenching oneself in chemicals! Of all the times I've been through the Canal there have never been any mosquitoes on deck! Most cruise ships pass through during times of the year when there are nice winds blowing across the deck and no bugs. If you go up to the Authentic Embera Village, 45 minutes by dug out canoe through the jungle, you may, MAY want to take along some bug spray in case you need it. Same for the trips on Gatun Lake [Monkey Island, Peacock Bass Fishing, etc) and into the city, but there are a whole lot less mosquitoes in Panama than in Alaska, where they are "the State Bird", or Wisconsin in summer, or a host of other home towns.

Take bug spray, but likely you won't need it. Mosquitoes definitely were a problem a hundred years ago when the Canal was being built, but . . .

Regards, Richard

Ooops . . . a mosquito got on board! Sound the alarms! Get out the bug repellant!

Francesco, Great job!! One of the things I think your video points out is how much better it is to do the transit on a ship that has a forward bow area that can, and is, opened to the passengers during the transit. I have been on transits where the only folks who can enjoy that bow view are the crew! And some ships are designed with winches and stuff in that area and are totally non accessible. Good thing to check out when choosing a ship. Regards, Richard

HI Richard

 

I have a question about the village trip as well and am hoping you will be on our HAL November 8th trip.

 

I am profoundly deaf and wear cochlear implants. Cochlea implants and water to not mix. Are these canoes sturdy enough that there is no reason to think one would get wet of fall in--assuming you don't jumb or do something stupid.

 

Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question.

How about rain? That would be my biggest concern. The canoes are big trees that are dug out and actually quite stable. If it starts to rain, or if the wind starts blowing . . . that would be more of a concern. The water is all fresh water, rain water actually, but not knowing much about these implants . . . Regards, Richard

Hi Richard! Loving your posts! We will be on Coral Princess leaving November 23rd. Hoping you will be joining our cruise! :rolleyes:

Thanks! That would be a question for Princess. Unfortunately they may be cutting back on the Port Lecturer positions for ships in the Caribbean. I think they consider the Canal Caribbean. Again, a question for Princess. In general, if there is something you like on board ship, ANY cruise line, maybe something like lecturers, or dance classes, or whatever, you need to let the cruise lines know. In these days when all cruise lines struggle to make a profit anything that they don't think the guests want or enjoy goes away, and what they think guests enjoy and demand get priority.

Regards, and enjoy CORAL and the Canal! Richard

Most of the bugs lurk in the bushes and grass and while you are transiting the Canal you're far from the shoreline and bugs just aren't a problem. If you are taking a tour, like one of the jungle tours, or small boat tour around the edges of Gatun Lake, or up to the Embera village you may want to take along some bug spray IF you need it, and you probably won't. Dengue is the big problem in all of Latin America and the Caribbean so Panama is very active combating mosquitoes. Generally in the Canal there is some breeze and it is quite pleasant.

Regards, Richard