Richard in Panama

We live in a throw-away society. How long does your toaster work? How long do you keep any electronic device? Use it ... works a while then quits, and you throw it away. Yet here is this engineering marvel that stunned the world when it opened 100 years ago today, and it is still working 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. It has survived wars, invasions, dictators and still works as designed bringing the world together! Amazing! Happy Anniversary Canal de Panama!

Now ...

August 14, 1914

[1913 is the date of construction of the control house - the first transit was 1914]

Regards, Richard

Hi Richard....

 

I ordered your book and should be receiving it next week.

 

Any chance you might be doing a lecture on my NCL cruise (the Star) that will transit the canal on January 14, 2015 going from west to east?

 

Don

Don, let us know what you think about the book. I don't do the commentary for the Canal, the folks who many cruise lines have get on for the day. Usually I'm on for 3 to 4 months, but occasionally a few cruises at a time. I've worked with Princess, Holland, Celebrity, Crystal and Silversea, but never NCL. Sorry. You should have a fantastic cruise. January is a great time to go with winds from the north making it feel less hot and humid out on deck.

Regards, Richard

I have McCullough's book and would like to purchase your book....it sounds fantastic and I think it would be a great book to read before and again during the cruise ... Please let me know how I can get an autographed copy of your book. I can provide a credit card number or mail you a check.

 

Thanks so much again for this information and for sharing your enthusiasm with me. Don

Thanks Don! Of course I am enthusiastic ... One of the things I wish cruise line execs [the guys and gals Carnivals' at-times-wacky-sales-spokesman John Heald calls "the beards" [last time I noticed Princess' President Jan Swartz didn't have a beard, but John sometimes gets confused] ... Anyhow, sometimes I think the "beards" don't really get that the reason WHY people take a Canal cruise is ... dah! ... the Canal! One of the reasons why I like doing Canal cruises is that the passengers are as excited as I am, and many are up at 5 am lining the decks to watch the sun rise and the Canal pilot board.

I need to be careful not to "hawk" my book on the CC boards since I don't want to violate their policies. I'd love to sign your book, and hopefully we'll meet some day on board, but I'm in Panama and the books are printed by Amazon on demand, so I never actually see the books or have them in Panama, except an initial proof copy.

I know you'll have a fantastic time! BTW you didn't say what ship you are going to be on ....

Regards, Richard

What would be the best books to purchase prior to my Panama Canal cruise to prepare for the enjoyment of the transit through the canal?

Don, Good question! Investing some time studying the history of Panama, the Canal - past, present and future - the better your trip will be. What is always suggested is The Path Between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal, 1870-1914 by David McCullough. McCullough is a great historian, and if you like reading historical detail once you get through the first 100 or so pages you will be hooked. But it is a long book and most importantly covers only one period, 1870-1914, when the Canal was actually being built. So it is limited in that sense. Doesn't cover much about the history of the country itself, the original Panama Railroad which preceded Canal attempts, the history of Panama since, the Turnover, and Panama today.

All of which is why I wrote MY book, Panama Canal Day: An Illustrated Guide to Cruising The Panama Canal. It's on Amazon and Kindle if you are interested. I had just completed a lecture in the show lounge on a ship scheduled to transit the Canal. After the talk, as I walked out of the lounge, I was behind two ladies, both in their early 60s, and I overhead one say to the other, “I didn’t know the Canal was man made.” Here these gals were, taking the “bucket list,” trip-of-a-lifetime through one of the great wonders of the world, and they didn’t have a clue!

I realized that there was a need for a simpler and more current book, a book written for cruise passengers that included information about Panama (past as well as present) as well as information about the Canal. I wanted to write a book that would be helpful to folks planning a Panama Canal trip, as well as serve as a guide during the voyage.

Some other books I like about the period of the Canal Construction are Panama Fever: The Epic Story of the Building of the Panama Canal by Matthew Parker and The Canal Builders: Making America's Empire at the Panama Canal by Julie Green.

There's another Canal cruise book Panama Canal by Cruise Ship: The Complete Guide to Cruising the Panama Canal by Anne Vipond which is more about a total Canal itinerary. IMHO she spends most of the book talking about other Caribbean ports that may be on your itinerary and precious little about the Canal itself, which is the reason why most people book a Canal cruise. She also spends a lot of time on the very basics of cruising ... who the Captain is, what he does and how many stripes he has. What always strikes the hard-working crew who man the front desk hilariously funny is Vipond's description of the front desk as the "pleasure center" of the ship! Who knew? Certainly not the folks who work there!

Invest a little time and money upfront preparing for your cruise adventure and you will get SO much more out of it! The Canal is in many ways not only at the "center of the world" but it is definitely at the center of Panamanian pride and life. For US readers, there is a 100 year relationship between the US and Panama which, like most relationships, has had some tense moments. But US readers particularly will get more out of their Panama trip if they understand some of the struggles of the "marriage." This 100th Anniversary year [Aug 14, 2014 - August 2015] is a fantastic time to take a Panama Canal cruise! There's lots of good information on this board for planning.

Regards, Richard

"Oh great expert ..." That would be Bill! But the current target date is January 2016. Truth is, for a whole lot of reasons, most cruise lines will continue if possible to use the original locks because of the history, the use of the locomotives, etc. If it's cruise ship that's too large for the original locks, they'll use the newer locks. If you've done some of the newer European Canals that use the rolling locks of the type that will be used in the new Panama locks, they're pretty ho-hum by comparison. There won't be a "whole lot to see" of the new locks from the old locks. While the new locks and the expansion project is huge, there are lots of huge projects in the world now, but when the Canal was built 100 years ago it was an awesome achievement. And the fact that those same locks are still operating today ... when we live in a throw-away society ... is amazing! You won't get that same history in the new locks. They will be efficient, but ... just my opinion. Bill, what say you?

Regards, Richard

An additional option, if you are on the Pacific side, ie what is often referred to as "Fuerte Amador" by cruise lines, is the Hop On Hop Off bus. It's around $30 and you can get on where the tender drops you off in Amador. There are two routes and the whole trip, if you don't "hop off" is about 2 hours. If you want to be independent and explore inexpensively this is a good option. There is recorded commentary on board through head sets in a dozen languages. My suggestions, if you have all day, is do the complete loop around, then do it a second time getting off and spending some time at places that look interesting. I believe one of the routes goes out to the "Old City" [the first city] Bill mentions. Most cruise ship tourists miss this entirely. There is a nice Indigenous craft market there. Because of the narrow streets in Casco Viejo [the second colonial city] the bus drops you off and you can wander through a now restored, wonderful area. The Canal Museum in Casco Viejo is great. There are some great shops in Casco Viejo. And I'd get off at the Miraflores Visitor Center, another stop on the bus.

My only caution with "Hop On Hop Off" buses, which are favorites of cruise passengers all over the world, is carefully time getting back to the ship. I'd plan to get back at least 1 hr 30 minutes early allowing for some traffic en route. Also be aware that if you're in a port where there are several big ships in at the same time [heck, they're all big now!] and you're hopping off at one of the popular, somewhat distant spots, plan on a long line of cruise folks from your ship and the other ships all trying to get on a limited number of Hop On Hop Off buses at the same time. I've seen this in Spain, where there are huge lines of very anxious folks, many of whom aren't going to make it. Not to fear, this is where the cab drivers make up for what they would otherwise lose! Folks will pay any price, just to get back to the ship on time.

Enjoy! You are seeing the Canal at a historic moment! 100 years!

Regards, Richard

PS - Of course you will have read up on the Canal and its past, present and future! The more you know in advance, the better will be your experience. The amount of information provided by cruise lines varies greatly. Some really make it an enriching experience, and others ... well, they're too busy selling teeth whitening, yada yada.

I did INFINITY several years ago and loved it! It felt like we barely squeezed our way through. The broad, open promenade areas are wonderful and when you are in the Canal lock chambers you feel like you can almost reach out and touch the walls. I've not gone through on RCCL, although I've been next to RCCL ships several times. They always looked very crowded with so many ships photographers in the face of all the guests all of the time. But maybe it just looked that way. Regards, Richard

On Princess, to quote the Web site 14-20 Days 3 formal nights, 11-17 "smart casual." I'd plan on 3 or 4. The Canal trip would normally appeal to a slightly older, more traditional group of folks. Enjoy your trip! Regards, Richard

Every once in a while someone asks about renting a car in Panama ....

Here's a good idea of traffic in Panama ... also an interesting tour ...

Regards, Richard

Fitters! Thanks! The more you know about Panama and the Canal before you visit, the better will be your trip. A whole day in Panama! Such a lot to choose from, but since your primary interest is the Canal, and you're planning on a transit cruise later, I personally would probably opt for the Canal Expansion Tour. I haven't been to the new visitor center, but I've heard good things from those who have. When the Canal was first being built people came from all over the world, at great expense and back when it was a huge commitment to travel to Panama, just to see the Canal under construction.

Here's a pict of what you see at Gatun Locks ... I don't think it's very impressive.

Regards, Richard

Just by way of comparison as we approach the 100th Anniversary ...

That last pic is of a William Van Ingen charcoal sketch that's in the Panama Canal Headquarters Building. Van Ingen visited Panama several times, made these sketches, then went back to his studios in New York City to paint the murals that are in the rotunda of the Panama Canal Headquarters Building.

Obviously, they didn't have OSHA back then!

Regards, Richard

The cruise lines taking ships from Florida to the West Coast are often repositioning ships to Alaska. By the end of May most of the ships will already be doing Alaska or off to do Europe, so given your time restraints what you propose may not be possible. The 2015 schedule will give you a pretty good idea of how things will work in 2016. Regards, Richard

Cost probably has a lot to do with the number of people on the tour. Doing a tour for just one or two or four people is more expensive than doing a tour for 30-35 people. Since Anne's family live in the village she visits, obviously it is a more personal and "private" tour than a ship's tour. If you are on a ship that is turning around in Gatun Lake, dropping folks off for ship's tours, then you are limited to a ship tour. Regards, Richard

We are doing the ships tour Gatlun lake and locks. You get more history and understanding of the the locks workings. Have read this is a good tour. We will not do local due to mosquitos and it is not a good port. Heard it is very bad in Colon, dirty and dangerous. That is in my opinion, from people we know who have been there.

The way to get the most out of your Canal day is to read up on the history and workings of the Canal in advance, books like, if I can be so bold, mine. Not sure what you mean exactly by "will not do local." You're right, Colon itself is not for tourists, so all the tours, ship tours or independent, leave Colon to go out and experience Panama. The more reading and research you do the easier it will be to make a good choice and maximize your time in Panama. If you're worried about mosquitoes take along some bug spray. There are fewer mosquitoes in Panama than there are in many places of North America in summertime. I have not only "been there," I live here.

Regards, Richard

You absolutely have enough time! A ship's tour is one option. Private tours are another option. All are not the same. There are several small villages scattered in the Chagres National Park jungle usually about 120-150 people in each village. When the Canal was turned over to Panama most of the Chagres area was turned into a national park and the Embera people were not allowed to continue hunting and farming in their traditional manner, so they turned to tourism to survive. Some of the farther out villages are more authentic than the closer in villages because the farther out villages get fewer tourists. I don't know the tour operator you mention. You can check on this board and on line and see what kind of experiences others have had. I do know Anne Gordon, a gringa who is married to an Embera guy. They do tours to their village and have been doing it for years. They know their way around Panama City and it is a great experience. All of the independent tour operators know the city, the traffic, and know they need to get their customers back to the ship on time or they will be out of business. [Emberavillagetours.com]

Regards, Richard

They key is to keep moving around and check out the view from all angles. It's different in each spot. Don't be glued to what you think is the "best spot" because there isn't one best spot! At certain points there will be a lot of folks craning their necks at the same place, so go to another vantage point. By the time you get to the final set of locks a lot of folks will be eating, exercising, sleeping, or playing bridge. Chill. Enjoy! You'll get the best pics of anyone because you're moving around ... I know! Of course a few of my "best pics" are from areas ... well ... advantage I guess of giving the play-by-play from the bridge. When you get back share some of your pics here!

Regards, Richard

PS - The passengers on the open deck above the bridge got almost the same shots!

The only thing I'd ad to Bill's comment is watch for the description of the tour. If you are going to an actual village, and not one set up for tourists (although the folks may actually live there) is to realize that it is going to take the entire day to go to an authentic village. Usually the "Authentic Embera Village Tour" that takes all day is the real deal. Which village you actually go to depends on a number of things including the height of the river. The villages tend to be in and around Madden Lake which is a supplemental water supply for the Canal. When the Canal needs more water they can pull off a foot of water during the night which of course drops the amount of water on the rivers connected to Madden Lake. Generally this is not a problem except at the end of the dry season (usually April/May). Princess usually uses the same village that is home to Anne Gordon's family, i.e. Embera Puru. It's a great tour!

Regards, Richard

I just get up earlier! Like your pics ... exciting times for the Canal which make it a great time for folks to take a Canal cruise. Next month 100 years!! Regards, Richard

The giant gates for the new locks moving from Fort Davis, where they are being stored, to the Canal expansion site.

Regards, Richard

Just glancing through the optional excursions for Colon, it appears that a lot of them see things that we will see the next day. How much of it is the same or similar as what can be seen from the ship going through the lake and the (2 sets?) of locks?

Without carefully studying the tours that will be offered on your cruise, which of course is something you will want to do, in general you will have the best view of the Canal and all its workings from your ship as you make the complete transit. So your probably wouldn't be interested in a ferry boat Canal tour, if offered. The rest of the tours away from the Canal are going to show you stuff you will not otherwise see and give you an opportunity to actually experience some of Panama. You will catch some glimpses of work on the new lock channels, but if you really want to see the work in progress you'll take the tour. What is it that you want to see and what is it that you expect you will see from the ship during the transit?

Regards, Richard

It still is a great trip even though the cost of "admission" can be a little pricey!

Of course Disney World Park admission is $99 a day!

Regards, Richard

We were at the luncheon too (Panama Canal Society).

BridgeMates and Bill, It might help many of the readers of this board, most of whom are just planning a Canal cruise (possibly their first), if you guys explained a little about the Panama Canal Society, who you are, were, what it's about, and how you had the clout to get the second, if not the most important person in Panama to speak at lunch. Regards, Richard

It's not just that we have a Canal ... but gigantic ports at both ends, and more on the way, the second largest free zone in the world, the hub airport for the Americas, and are becoming the logistic center for the Americas. Even if Nicaragua gets its canal, it will be a long time before it has a competitive infrastructure. Nicaragua sees this as an opportunity to move into the 21st century increasing GDP, average per capita incomes, etc. However, their canal, as long as it's just a canal, is only going to let these mega ships pass through. Sure, they'll get tolls, but it's not just the Panama Canal tolls that are driving the economy, but the entire infrastructure and all the additional revenue directly and indirectly generated because of the Canal.

Regards, Richard

Here is the web site for the company that runs Canal transits...

 

https://www.pmatours.net/pacific_queen/index.html#

Unfortunately frequently the times don't work with ship docking times and often when several ships are in, the tour companies that supply tours to the ships have booked the entire thing.

Regards, Richard

No. Not soccer! But by 2020 you may have another choice in Canal cruises. I addition to the Panama Canal, Suez Canal [long, long day of nothing but sand!], you can choose a cruise on the Nicaragua Canal ... or so Nicaragua, China, and Russia hope.

The Nicaraguan government has approved Nicaraguan committee approved a proposed route for a $40 billion channel across the country that would compete with the Panama Canal. The 172 mile (278 km) route runs from the mouth of the Brito river on the Pacific side to the Punto Gorda river on the Caribbean. The proposed canal would pass through Lake Nicaragua, Central America’s largest lake, and will be between 230 metres and 520 metres (755 feet to 1,706 feet) wide and 27.6 metres (90 feet) deep. The proposed canal would be completed in 2019 and begin operations in 2020.

Financed by the Chinese, with Russian participation, the Canal would be a boon to the economy of Nicaragua, one of the poorest countries in the region.

The proposed channel would be more than three times longer than the 48-mile (77-km) Panama Canal. Panama believes that there is enough demand for both waterways, if the Nicaragua Canal becomes reality. The Canal de Panama has already begun plans to enlarge the new expanded lock facilities which won't open until late 2015. But the new giant class of ships won't even fit through those even larger locks. Maersk, builder and operator of the new gargantuan container ships has already committed to use the Nicaraguan Canal.

But the*proposed route still faces environmental and social impact studies, Many believe that without some lockage system, the Nicaragua canal could become an environmental disaster. *Within Nicaragua there is concern*about the canal’s effect on Lake Nicaragua, an important fresh water source for the country, as well as the impact on poor communities.