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Can't decide whether to include Galleria Borghese


blueapsara

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Hi, I have read many threads here about Rome but am still undecided as to how to spend my day. Hope all the helpful folks here could assist me in finalizing my plans.

 

Background:

I am in my early 30's. Can walk for long distances, up and down hill, etc. as long as not weighed down by anything on my back. Travelling solo, will take the train to and from the port. Ship will be in port from 7am to 7pm on Tuesday, August 17. Not a history buff. I do like art but not fanatic about it. Architecture is more my thing.

 

I visited the following in December 12 years ago but many were under scaffolding at the time: Colosseum, Forum, St. Peter's Basilica (and climbed the dome), Vatican Museum (remember the Sistine Chapel well but nothing else), Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps (nearly got mugged but that's another story), Pantheon (don't remember if I went inside).

 

My original plan for this time:

 

  • Revisit the Colosseum -- is it true that you can go down to the "basement" area where the cages were? If so, that would be interesting to do. If not, I'll just take pictures from the outside. Then walk to Circus Maximus to take a quick peek (curious as to what it looks like).
  • Revisit the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps, because I liked them
  • Revisit the Vatican -- go in the Basilica. But the museum doesn't seem worth it if all I want to see again is the Sistine Chapel and the spiral staircase...
  • Walk around part of the Villa Borghese
  • Window shop or find a bargain or two
  • Soak up the atmosphere :)

 

However, now that I've read about what's inside the Borghese Gallery, I'm interested in it also. I just can't figure out how to do what I listed above and go to the gallery in one day. Putting the Borghese in the 11am-1pm slot cuts up my day. I can't seem to do much from 9am - 12:30pm if I go there from 1-3pm. Never mind that I have to get back on the 16:09 train from Termini -- I want to leave ample time to get back to port.

 

This is what I'm thinking might work:

 

- Colosseum first thing in the morning

- Galleria Borghese 10:30 am - 1 pm (allowing for ticket pick-up)

- meander down to the Spanish Steps, then the Trevi Fountain

- then find a way to get to the Vatican by 3pm

- get on the train from Roma S. Pietro at 16:29 (will have to exit the Basilica by 3:50 pm)

 

 

Another possible itinerary (taking breaks in between, of course):

 

- start at St. Peter's Basilica

- take the metro to the Flaminio stop, then wander down to the Spanish Steps -- peek at the Villa Borghese and window shop along the way

- explore the side streets on the way to Trevi Fountain -- toss a coin over my shoulder and hope I can go back to Rome again someday

- Pantheon?

- walk past the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument

- end my day at the Colosseum and Circus Maximus

- get on the metro to make the 16:09 train out of Termini back to Civitavecchia -- what time should I leave the Colosseum?

 

Or maybe do this in reverse?

 

Any advice would be most welcome. Thanks in advance, and apologies for the long post!

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It looks like you are alread well prepared. With all the options in Rome it is always a question of priorities.

Your first itinerary might work:

- Colosseum first thing in the morning

- Galleria Borghese 10:30 am - 1 pm (allowing for ticket pick-up)

- meander down to the Spanish Steps, then the Trevi Fountain

- then find a way to get to the Vatican by 3pm

- get on the train from Roma S. Pietro at 16:29 (will have to exit the Basilica by 3:50 pm)

 

You might need a taxi to make the 10.30 at the Galleria Borghese and you might not get much time in St. Peter's Basilica depending on the waiting line to pass security.

 

A few further thoughts:

The whole plan crashes if you do not get a very early train ;)

In the morning you could exit the train at Stazione Ostiense and take the subway one station to Circo Massimo to have your desired "peek" there.

With your interest in Architecture you could skip the previously seen Colosseum and walk to the Terme die Caracalla instead. It is an impressive and interesting site. From here you certainly would need a taxi to make the galleria on time.

You are sure about wanting to visit the Galleria Borghese? I really love it with its masterpieces, just given your preference of architecture over art, you might equally and less time constraint enjoy just walking around with a good guidebook and seeing the many architectural gems in Rome.

 

Enjoy your day!

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Hello,

 

I would suggest that you do not miss the Borghese Gallery!! I have been to Rome many times and on my first visit I went here as a last minute stop due to the rain. I never thought about sculpture before, but now I am a huge Bernini fan.

 

I will be travelling solo in Sept and will do Rome on my own. I am so disappointed that I will be in Rome on a Monday when this museum is closed.

 

You might want to research the BIRG train.

 

Marina

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Euro cruiser --

I don't have to leave from Termini (unless I'm already in that area, e.g., ending up at the Borghese from 1-3pm or near the Spanish Steps). If I start from the Colosseum and end my day at the Vatican, I can walk to Roma S. Pietro and leave from there. Would that make more sense logistically? Trying not to backtrack too much.

 

Carlmm --

thanks for the tip on Terme die Caracalla. According to my map, it's a bit south of the Colosseum, right? And you're totally right about my plan falling apart if I don't get on the early train and about cabbing it to the galleria.

 

Marina --

the more I think about it, the more I'm inclined to not go to the Borghese this time because of the time constraint. But I have thought about going there on standby if it rains. The reservation site showed a lot of open spots as of right now for all time slots, so I might get lucky.

 

 

I'm sure I will enjoy myself in Rome. As long as I stick close to the Romans when crossing the street so I don't get run over by enthusiastic drivers. :p

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Villa Borghese and the Borghese Galleria are awesome, and I highly recommend them if you have not been there. However, the biggest downside is that there are not metro stops near the Galleria.

 

Honestly, I would completely forget about Circus Maximus. It's a field with a dirt oval in it. That's it. Really.

 

Given what you want to accomplish, I think your first itinerary makes the most sense (starting at the Colosseum). Also, just to prepare yourself, I would prioritize what you want to see the most so that you can skip one or two things if you decide you want more time.

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If architecture is what most interests you, I suggest you definitely visit the Colosseum. Don't rush through -- there is information inside regarding construction and even if the "basement" tour is not yet operational by fall (there is some doubt as to when exactly it will open...), you will probably note many more details than you did 12 years ago. Things like the holes where the "awnings" were hung, the numbered gates outside, and much of the underground area which is visible from the seats, especially if you take a small pair of binoculars. Take a good write-up from a guidebook with you.

 

Also, I would not skip the Pantheon. Its construction was a marvel of engineering in its day and for many centuries thereafter. Until the Duomo in Florence was built during the Renaissance, it had the largest dome ever made, and is the most complete building from Roman times. There is much to look at both inside and out.

 

Finally, I'd definitely recommend St Peters. Have you read the book "The Basilica"? It's an account of the building of the modern basilica that is much more interesting than you'd think, with intrigue, politics, drama, and artists trying to skip out on the job by horseback at midnight. The author also manages to slip in a great deal about the architectural complexity of building this huge structure.

 

You'll have to decide whether the Galleria Borghese is worth it. I have enjoyed it, but it's not one of my favorite things in Rome -- however, if Renaissance and Baroque art (sculpture on lower floor, paintings on upper) interest you, it may be worth reordering your day.

 

Rome is too tough to do in a day!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks everyone for the advice. I ended up not going inside the Colosseum and St. Peter's (only took pictures outside), and skipped the Pantheon and Galleria Borghese altogether. The lines were too long and the day too muggy. I ended up spending a pretty leisurely day wandering around and soaking the city up. The Vittorio Emmanuel 'typewriter' monument was open, so I go to climb to the top. That was interesting. Rome is a place I hope to revisit again and again, but on a longer land trip.

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