South America Jan 3 - 31 Review

[BCHappyGal]

Hi all of you who plan to take a South American Crusie - you are in for a real treat - we loved it. We cruised from Fort Lauderdale through the Panama Canal then south along the entire west coast of South America around the Horn - east to the Falkland Islands and then back and north up the Argentine coast to Buenos Aires.

 

Below is my review of our wonderful trip

 

Panama Canal & South America Cruise

 

By putting 2 cruises together “Back to Back” we enjoyed a wonderful itinerary – 28 relaxing days with visits to 13 intriguing ports of call. From Fort Lauderdale to Buenos Aires aboard Celebrity’s “Infinity” Jan3 - 31, 2005.

 

To start with I should introduce us – we are a family group who often cruise together. We are Ann & Ross from Vancouver, Canada both still working for a living and the Planners of all our trips (I am the “Travel Fairy” for the gang). My Dad, Fred, joins us on all of our travels. He is from Quebec in the summer and Florida in the winter. On this trip we were also joined by Cousins, Norman from Bethel Vt. Plus Norman & Joyce from Kansas. A friend, Ernie, from Ottawa rounded out the group.

 

Jan 3 - Mon

We arrived (all 7 of us) at the Fort Lauderdale pier at just after 11am where porters were on hand to take our mountain of luggage off our hands and deliver it directly to our staterooms. We entered the Fort Lauderdale terminal (yes there are lots of chairs to sit in to await boarding) and were efficiently placed in the boarding holding area line up with chairs to sit on. Cruise Critic friends recognized Ross & I and came over to Meet & Greet in person. By the time we had introduced our selves and gang to the 3 Cruise Critic couples it was time to proceed to through the security area and to the check in desk. All said and done we were on the ship within 1 hour of arriving at the terminal building. We all quickly dumped our carry-on luggage and headed up to the Ocean Grill for lunch. After lunch our luggage had arrived in our cabins so it was time to unpack and get our rooms organized. Then off to explore the ship till 5pm and the life boat drill. Once this was done with we all proceeded up to the back deck for our privately organized (by Charlotte) Cruise Critic Sail Away party which was lots of fun.

 

Jan 4 - Tues At Sea

A very relaxing day spent exploring this wonderful ship. Also took time out to decorate our cabin door – Canadian theme. In the afternoon I enjoyed playing rubber/social bridge in the card room. I also started my routine of walking 2 miles every morning before breakfast to try to keep it so that my cloths would continue to button & zip even with all the fabulous food I was consuming. Of course at 7 the whole gang of us gathered each evening for cocktails – a very important ritual which was never missed!!!!

 

Jan 5 - Wed At Sea

Another truly relaxing day where I enjoyed taking a computer class in the morning and bridge in the afternoon.

This morning the Infinity hosted the Cruise Critic party where we all got to meet each other and put faces to the people we had been busy chatting with via the internet for months.

 

Jan 6 - Thu Oranjestad, Aruba 7 – 9

We arrived in Aruba bright and early in the morning – I watched the ship dock while doing my laps up on deck. As we have visited Aruba before we only walked around the town of Oranjestad doing a bit of shopping

 

Jan 7 - Fri At Sea

Another relaxing day with time to swim in the pools.

 

Jan 8 – Sat Transit the Panama Canal 6 – 4

We were in the Panama Canal by the time I made it up on deck in the morning. However I was in plenty of time to enjoy our transit thru the Gatun Locks at around 10am Once into Gatun lake our ship had to anchor and await our turn to proceed to through the rest of the Canal. Once we were given that permission at approximately 11:30am the ship started the slow glide through Lake Gatun toward the Gillard Cut. On the way we met several freighters and even the US submarine Illinois. We exited out through the Mira Flores Locks on the pacific side of the Canal at approximately 5pm. The Panama Canal never fails to amaze me! Imagine something designed and built over a hundred years ago is still working and functioning well today!

These giant locks move huge ships up and down in a matter of minutes without any pumps – YES Mother Nature using GRAVITY does it all!

It took over 10 years, more than $325 million and roughly 80,000 people to construct this inland waterway, which saves nearly 8000 miles of travel. The world’s biggest short cut opened on August 15, 1914.

FACTS: Length of each lock chamber 1000 ft

Width of each lock chamber 110 ft

Depth of each lock chamber 83 ft

Minimum depth of water in each lock 41 ft

With of each lock leaf 64 ft

Thickness of each lock leaf 7 ft

Height of lock gates 47 – 82 ft

Diameter of main culvert 18 ft

Weight of each towing locomotive 55 tons

Weight of lock gate leaves 390 – 730 tons

Length of canal, deep water to deep water 51 miles

Shoreline of Gartun Lake 1100 miles

 

Fuerte Amador, Panama 6pm – 11:30pm Tendered

Once through the canal our ship stopped here and those passengers who wanted to could go ashore via tender. We went just so we could say we stopped in panama there were a few souvenir shops to take your money that was about it. Until the USA turned the Panama Canal over to the Panamanians in 1999 this island was off limits to all except US Military. We hurried back to the ship as we did not want to miss either dinner or happy hour.

 

Jan 9 - Sun At Sea

Another relaxing day and today the ship celebrated a nautical crossing of the equator! Yes King Neptune with his court arrived to welcome new comers to the Equator. Yes they held a “Kangaroo Court” whereby selected crew members were tried for various crimes (The Executive Chef for causing all of our cloths to shrink) and of course we the passengers always found them guilty so the had to accept their punishment which was :

1) To kiss the fish ( a lovely big salmon)

2) Get a cream pie in the face

3) Get thrown into the pool

This was great fun and a wonderful photo opportunity.

 

 

Jan 10 - Mon Manta Equador 7 – 6

We were up early here in this port city located along the central part of Ecuador’s Pacific Coast, and is the country’s second largest port. This area is known worldwide for its pottery and panama hats. The Province’s climate is dry- to humid- subtropical, with an average temperature of 25 degrees centigrade.

 

Our private tour guide was waiting for us at 8:30 at the foot of the gangplank.

We enjoyed a city tour of Manta with a visit to the archeological museum of the central bank to see its collection of pre-Columbian artifacts highlighting the region’s culture.

A visit to Montecristi an ancient town founded in 1628 to see how the famous “Panama Hats” are woven from the dried leaves of the paja toquilla, a special straw obtained from certain palms of the Ecuadorian coast. Here we were at a crafts market where 2 ladies (both in their 90’s) where demonstrating the weaving of the hats. It takes a minimum of 3 months to weave 1 hat and this is a cottage industry. The hats can only be worked on in the early morning or late evening when the straw is moist from the dew in the air. This was a good place to buy souvenirs.

I really liked our time at the vegetable ivory nut factory. This nut grows in huge clusters on a type of palm tree that is only found in Ecuador. A lady demonstrated how they use a band saw to cut this very hard nut so that it can be made into buttons, jewelry, carvings. Buy your Ivory nut carvings here as they are much cheaper at the factory than at the souvenir stalls.

Ecuador grows roses for export to North America (apparently about 80% of our roses come from Ecuador) anyway you can buy a dozen long stem roses for $1. at the grocery store. We ladies were all returning to the ship with our roses!!!

Jan 11 - Tues At Sea

Another relaxing day and time to get ready for the next shore day and excursion.

Jan 12 – Wed Lima Peru 7 – 7

The cultural & economic heart of Peru, Lima once served as the seat of power for the Spanish Empire of South America. Lima is home to many fine museums. The catacombs beneath the Church of San Francisco are a sight to behold.

 

Again I had arranged a private tour and Peru Gateway Travel – Orquidea Tours provided us with a SUPERLATIVE TOUR City of Lima Tour & Pachacamac Ruins Tour with lunch for only $87.

 

Our Guide “Snow” was waiting for us just outside the docks exit turnstiles with a sign with our name on it.

Finding the meeting place was the hard part. In Callao/Lima you dock at a working cargo facility so you are not allowed to walk on the dock. Once off the ship you board a shuttle bus which drives you from the ship across the dock to the exit / entrance area. Once off the shuttle bus walk to the exit turnstiles and proceed through them into the crowd outside. There you will find your guide awaiting you.

 

Once on our air conditioned mini-bus that included a sound system so we all could hear everything the guide said with no problem we headed out to the Pachacamac Ruins:

Pachacamac

Located 31 km from Lima this extensive archaeological complex is made up of palaces and temple pyramids. Begun in 200AD expanded by the Wari culture before being conquered and added to by the Inca . The name Pachacamac translates to “he who animated the world” or “he who created land and time” from the Wari God whose wooden two faced image can be seen in the museum. We viewed complex temples built with adobe by different cultures since the beginning of the Christian age. Ancient artifacts were on display in the museum and we explored pre-Columbian ruins. Through most of the buildings are now little more than walls of piles rubble dotting the desert landscape, the main temples and huge pyramids have been excavated, with their ramps and stepped sides revealed. We climbed to the top of the Temple of the Sun for an excellent view of the coast. The inca Palacio de las Mamacuna (House of the Chosen Women) complex has been completely excavated and rebuilt. The complex is surrounded by a garden and the roof beams are home to innumerable swallows. We spent over an hour here and by being early had the place nearly to ourselves - we were leaving just as the buses from the ship where arriving.

Our next stop was the Gold Museum - Museo de Oro del Peru with its displays of thousands of gold pieces ranging from ponchos embroidered with hundreds of solid gold plates to huge earrings. In 2001 this museum was rocked with a scandal claiming that 98% of the contents were fake. In the museum courtyard there are several gift shops – prices are much higher than in the craft market.

 

Now it was lunch time and we enjoyed a wonderful buffet lunch at “Mangos” while seated on the patio overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

 

After Lunch we went to the craft market a huge (approximately 2 square block) area of stalls selling everything for a negotiated price (cheap) make sure you get some sheep skin slippers only $8. Try to make sure you have at least 45 minutes to an hour here

 

Now it was time for our City Tour of Lima

San Francisco Monastery: which is famous for its catacombs and its remarkable library where there are thousands of antique texts some dating back to the conquistadors. Built in the 1670’s it is adorned with striking colonial frescoes, Sivillian tile work and paneled ceiling in the cloisters. In the catacombs you can actually take pictures of the skulls & bones.

La Cathedral: on the Plaza de Armes was built in 1555 and rebuilt following a devastating earthquake in 1746. Note the splendid carved stalls, the silver covered altars surrounded by fine woodwork and mosaic covered walls bearing the coats of arms of Lima and Pizarro. For Masons check out the carving above the Statue of Mary.

Plaza de Armas: designed by Franciso Pizarro, also known as Plaza Mayor this was once the heart of Lima. The impressive bronze fountain in the centre is the Plaza’s oldest feature erected in 1650. Here we see the exquisitely balconied Archbishops palace to the left of the Cathedral. Here too is the Palacio de Gobierno the residence of Peru’s President. The uniformed Presidential Guard is on duty and the changing of the guard takes place each day at noon

An impressive statue of Francisco Pizarro on Horseback is on the corner of the Plaza. (Francisco Pizarro was only a mediocre horseman). This statue was originally in the centre of the Plaza however the clergy took a dim view of the horse’s rear end facing the cathedral so the statue was moved.

Running along 2 sides of Plaza de Armas are arcades with shops: Portal de Escribanos and Portal de Botoneros.

Cerro San Cristobal: This 409 meter high hill in central Lima has a lookout at the top. A huge cross built in 1928 and illuminated at night is a Lima landmark.

.

I highly recommend the following tour company who provided us with our private tour. Orquidea Tours

 

Jan 13 - Thur At Sea

To relax and rest up after the very busy day in Peru.

 

Jan 14 - Fri Arica Chile 7 – 6

Arica is an oasis bordered by desert sand dunes and fertile valleys fed by the melting snows of the Andes Mountains. See mummies from the Chinchorro culture dating back to 10,000BC. Visit the Plaza Colon to view Eiffel’s iron cathedral of San Marcos. Travel inland to tour the desert & Andes Mountains.

 

Here we walked off the gangplank to be met by our tour Guide “Paulina” holding up a sign with our name on it. Tour provided by Vicuna Tours – owner Gerardo Perez Tour in an air conditioned min-bus ,

We started out by driving up the Lluta Valley where we saw Geogliphos. To see the Petrogliphos we drove through a farmers yard right up to the foot of the cliff and then we all got out and could actually touch them.

We continued on to Pocons where we enjoyed folk dancing by locals dressed in native costume. From here we drove up and over the sand dune/mountain to the next valley – Azapa Valley where we see more Geogliphos, and Atoca and Cerro Sagrado (Sacred Hill).

In this valley we find the San Miguel de Azapa Archaeological Museum displaying the oldest mummies in the world – Chinchorro Mommies. Known for its collection of artifacts and remains of the Chinchorro people dating to 6000-8000 BC Paulina took our group through the museum explaining each major display. Once outside we shopped in the few stalls selling crafts (cheaper here than in the main square in Arica)

Lunch time and no box lunch on this tour instead we enjoyed a wonderful 5 course lunch at Don Floro Restaurant. Yes we had fresh squeezed orange & cantelope juice, Pisco Sour to drink and to eat lots of wonderful local dishes.

After lunch it was back to Arica and a visit to Eiffel’s iron Cathedral of San Marcos and time to shop in the craft stalls in the main square in front of the church. Then we walked over to the old customs house now an art gallery which was also built by Eiffel.

Paulina retuned us to our ship after a full and very enjoyable day!

I can highly recommend Vicuna Tours

 

Jan 15 - Sat At Sea

 

Jan 16 - Sun At Sea & a day to say goodbye to the many new friends you have made that are leaving the ship tomorrow in Valparaiso. This is also where 2 more friends Stan & Clare from Ohio will be joining our group.

 

17 - Mon Valparaiso (Santiago) Chile 8 – 9

 

This is the end of cruise #1 – how we start on cruise # 2

The entire town of Valparaiso seems to precariously hang on precipitous cliffs crisscrossed by narrow, twisting footpaths, stairways and the city’s time tested rapid transit system of funicular cars called “Ascensores”

 

A major port, Valparaiso, with a population of over 300,000, is the second largest city in Chile. It is also home to the Chilean navy. This blue collar city is a jumble of colorful clapboard houses and Victorian mansions balancing precariously on a circle of 44 steep hills. This majestic panorama is backed by the distant snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera. Its unique scenery is matched only by its raucous nightlife, as sailors’ bars and bordellos line the winding, hilly streets. Valparaiso is a great contrast to its twin sister, Vina del Mar, as they sit side by side along the Pacific coast. Vina del Mar was founded as a weekend retreat and garden residence for the wealthy of Valparaiso and Santiago. This coastal resort with its wide tree lined streets, lush gardens, expensive hotels and restaurants, and grand casino remains today the preferred beach destination of Chileans

In Valparaiso ride one of the funiculars (ascending railways), like Ascencer Artillera. The cable car will pull you uphill to Paseo 21 de Mayo, for absolutely awesome views of the city and port below.

.

Our tour in Valparaiso was hosted by Terracota Excursions

Take the ship/port shuttle bus from the gangplank to the main terminal/reception building to meet our guide who will be waiting just outside the terminal building.

 

Here our tour was to visit 2 wineries and to tour the 2 cities Vina del mar & Valparaiso. My advice would be to visit only 1 winery unless you are a real wine bluff. And I would go for the Indomita Winery.

 

The best part of the tour was our time spent shopping in the stalls at the top of the Ascencer and the ride down.

Our tour was definitely a very good tour but our guide spoke very good English.

 

Jan 18 - Tues At Sea

A day to relax but also to meet new Cruise Critic friends at the cruise critic party hosted in the morning.

Also a day to enjoy a hosted social for those of us who were Back to Back passengers.

 

Jan 19 - Wed Puerto Montt, Chile 8 – 6 Tendered

This small provincial city is located in the heart of Chile’s spectacular Lake District. Enjoy shopping for local crafts at the market Feria Artesanal. Surrounded by rolling farmland, Bavarian Hamlets and beautiful coastline. It’s home to the giant Alerce Tree that can live for 3000 years and is related to California’s giant redwood tree. Be enchanted by the immense blue of Lake Llanquihue, the thunderous Petrohue River Falls, and the snow covered Volcano Osorno.

 

Our tour is hosted by Aqua Motion Tours with guide Paulina

Paulina was patiently awaiting us when we finally got tendered ashore at about 10am Our tour was in a mini-bus and included an excellent lunch at the Club Aleman. Remember the insect repellant & wear light color cloths!

 

We drove thru Puerto Montt and on to Puerto Varnas with breathtaking views over Lake Llanquihue to the snow covered peak of Osorno volcano. Here too we shopped in the handicraft market

Now we head towards Petrohue circling the lake which is South America’s 3rd largest.

We completed the drive by passing thru Frutillar with its Bavarian traditions, the houses are surrounded by beautiful gardens and are built in a style reminiscent of Germany’s Black Forest region. We will pass the Lutheran & Catholic Churches and the Colonial Museum. As we were out of time due to our late arrival we did not have time to visit the museum or to shop in the Angelmo handicraft Market. I would recommend that you skip the drive around the lake instead have them backtrack from the Falls thru Varnas and take the shorter (not as sencic) route to Frutillar or skip Puerto Varnas altogether. The countryside reminded me of the Green Mountains especially Vermont.

 

We were provided an excellent tour (it was not their fault we were late being tendered to shore) and I would definitely recommend this company.

The weather here is cool!

 

Jan 20 - Thur Chilian Fjords cruising – unfortunately we passed through here in the middle of the night.

 

Jan 21 - Fri Strait of Magellan cruising – very calm protected waters and the highlight is passing the Amalia Glacier. This morning we were joined for coffee in the Ocean Grill by the Executive Chef Pascal a very nice gentleman who definitely loves what he does!

 

Jan 22 - Sat Punta Arenas Chile 7 – 5 Tendered

The southern most point on the contiguous South American Continent it overlooks Otway Sound, home to colonies of sea lions and Magellanic Penguins.

 

Our tour hosted by Terracota Excursions: $75. Meet tour guide at tender dock.

Itinerary

Again we were late meeting with our guide “Rod” as we were tendered ashore so only got in at about 9am instead of 7:30 am however Rod was patiently awaiting us. The weather here is cold!

 

Our tour started off with a drive to Fort Bulnes In 1843 Capt Juan Williams, naturalist Bernardo Philippi, 16 sailors and soldiers and 2 women set sail from Ancud, Chile to the Strait of Magellan to plant the Chilean flag in this region before European colonists could beat them to it. They chose a rocky promontory that dominated the strait and named it Fuerte Bulnes. Although this promontory was strategically appropriate for monitoring seafaring traffic, the location proved undesirable, and they pulled up stakes and moved 25 km north founding what is today Punta Arenas. The fort was rebuilt as a national monument in 1943. There are reproductions of the log cabins that housed the settlers, a chapel, and several cannons. This too is the southern most point of land still on the mainland of South America.

 

About a mile from the Fort is a monument which is located at the geographical centre of Chile’s claimed territory (between Arica and the South Pole)

 

We continued down in to Puerto del Hombre which is very close to the Fort and was actually settled by the Spanish in 1584 – however due to the harsh conditions the settlers all died.

 

On our return to Punta Arenas – which is the southern most city of Chile and founded on Dec 18th, 1848 we visited the lookout Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross) for a great view of the city, Strait of Magellan, and Tierra del Fuego

Next stop the City Cemetery: Opened by the Governor in 1894 it features a giant stone portico donated by Sara Braun in 1919. Inside is a veritable miniature city, with avenues that connect the magnificent tombs.

The Museo Salesiano Maggiroino Borgatello: Offers insight into the Magellanic regions history, anthropology, ecology and industrial history; and whose collection includes ethnic Patagonian artifacts as well as displays on the social and economic history of the region – could have been skipped as it was not very interesting IMPO

Unfortunately due to our late arrival we did not have time to visit either the Instituto de Patagonia or the Palacio Sara Braun & Museo Regional Braun Menendez:. However I feel that either of these would have been better than the Borgatello.

We did not go to see the penquins in this port as at the Otway Sound reserve it involved a fairly long walk from the parking lot to the penquin reserve and the other option involved a long boat ride. We chose to see the Penquins at Puerto madryn.

 

 

Jan 23 - Sun Ushuaia Argentina 9 – 5

This remote desolate territory is the southern most corner of the globe and is home to some of the most incredible wildlife in the world. Surrounded on three sides by towering peaks, this was once a penal colony. From hanging glaciers, to sphagnum bogs, to clear lakes and rushing rivers. Here wildlife ranges from andean condors to beavers to sea lions to albatross’s.

On the shores of Beagle Channel and surrounded by mountains, Ushuaia is the world’s southernmost city, and is known as the “Port at the End of the World”. It is the capital of Tierra Del Fuego, a large triangular island beyond the Magellan Straits, and the Southern Atlantic Province. Ushuaia was originally colonized as an Argentinean penal colony in 1902. It remained a prison outpost until 1947. In fact, some of the 42,000 present inhabitants are descendants of those prisoners. It is now a major South America tourist destination and is rivaled only by Buenos Aires for ship traffic. Ushuaia is one of few cities on earth that offer the sea, mountains, and forests all in one place. Ushuaia can best be described as a hearty frontier town in a truly dramatic setting.

 

 

Jan 24 - Mon At Sea – this morning we cruised around Cape Horn on calm seas (yes we circumnavigated it) bright and early at 7am. It was cold!

 

 

Jan 25 - Tues Port Stanley Falkland Islands 9 – 6 Tendered

The Falkland Islands consist of 2 main islands and a group of small land masses located 300 miles east of the Argentine Patagonian coastline and 480 miles northeast of Cape Horn. It is the most accessible of the sub-Antarctic islands. With a population of approximately 2000, 2/3 of which live in Port Stanley, Falkland Island is the smallest, most remote capital city in the world. This very British island was invaded by Argentina in 1982, but a counter-invasion by Britain led to reclamation of the island within 3 months. Its’ pubs, neat gardens, British ‘bobbies’, red mailboxes and the Union flag flown over the Government House leave no doubt that British roots run deep. This very unique port is built on the north facing slope of the island to catch the sun year round and overlooks Stanley Harbor. Houses with brightly corrugated metal roofs dot the hillside and are a striking contrast to the surrounding countryside. The residents are extremely hospitable as they welcome you to this very isolated, but not insular, part of the world.

 

Stop at the tourist station at the pier for a town map and follow the Stanley Harbor Maritime History Trail. Information panels document the shipwrecks that surround Port Stanley. As you walk along the harbor, don’t miss the opportunity to catch a glimpse of the black-browed albatross, giant petrels and steamer ducks that inhabit the port in summer. While on the trail you will also pass Christ Church Cathedral and the adjacent Whalebone Arch which was erected in 1933 to celebrate 100 years of British rule. Continuing on Ross Road you will see the 1982 granite War Memorial, and just pass the Government House; off Ross Road is the Falkland Island Museum.

 

Here you can learn about island history and origins. That brings you to the end of the tour, with plenty of time left over to wander into the gift shops, and visit the numerous pubs scattered throughout the town. If you have a need to see more penguins, you can hire a cab (if one is available) for the 20 minute ride to the penguin colony at Gypsy Cove. Here anywhere from a few to 100 penguins can be seen.

Booked Falkland Islands Tours & Travel –see penquins in Gypsy Cove for $10. per person – his van can hold up to 15 passengers.

I highly recommend Andy and his company (ask for guide Barbara)

 

Jan 26 - Wed At Sea

 

Jan 27 – Thurs Puerto Madryn 9 – 6

This Argentine port settled by the Welsh in 1886 provides an entrance to the spectacular wildlife region of Petagonia, with glacier dotted mountains and unique coastal wildlife. Peninsula Vaides is home to large populations of elephant seals, sea lions, magellanic penquins, flamingos and whales.

 

 

Our tour hosted by Whales Patagoia they met us on the dock with sign

Magellanic Penguin

There are so many choices for exploring the vast and varied wildlife that call this area home that it is virtually impossible to see or do it all in one port day. But, this port provides the easiest and best opportunity for viewing Magellanic penguins. Punta Tombo Penguin Reserve, a secluded desert about 2 ½ hours away, is the breeding ground for over ½ million Magellanic penguins. They are so comfortable around humans that you can easily wander around their burrows and walkways throughout the colony. Guanacos, a llama-like animal indigenous to this area, roam freely on the preserve.

 

Guanaco on the Beach at the Punta Tombo Penguin Reserve

 

Magellanic Penguins at the Punta Tombo Penguin Reserve

The Gaiman Welsh Village, Chubut’s oldest municipality and one of the few remaining towns to maintain the Welsh traditions, is about a 90 minute drive. Here you can wander the narrow streets with red brick buildings, sip on high tea, and listen to a traditional Welsh choir. If you wish to stay closer to town, the EcoCentro Puerto Madryn, a scientific outpost dedicated to observation of marine ecosystems, is 5 minutes outside the city. A Natural Science and Oceanographic Museum lies within the city limits, as does a casino.

 

We were provided with an excellent tour guide and enjoyed to tour. I highly recommend this trip as the penquins are everywhere and you can get very close to them. The drive although long is not as bad as it sounds. Our driver passed everything in sight and we got to the reserve well ahead (about 1.5 hours) of the big tour buses. On our return we opted to return direct to Puerto Madryn so t hat we would have time to shop rather than go to Gaiman for tea.

Booked for a private tour of 5 hours to visit Rawson City, Trelew City & Gaiman for Welsh Tea – small van for 3 only cost $53. (all Included) pay cash on dock – Look for sign that says “Arnold X 3”

I would definitely recommend these people.

Weather here is hot – wear shorts!

 

Jan 28 – Fri At Sea

 

Jan 29 - Sat Montevideo Uruguay 8 – 5

The towering hill of El Cerro guards the entrance to Uruguay’s capital city. Explore the charming streets and 18th century architecture of Old Town. Experience the famed acoustics of the Solis Theatre or visit the Estevez Palace or the Museo de Gaucho, which gives us a fascinating look into the cowboy life South American Style.

Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America, but boasts of a healthy economy, impressive living standard, and the best social services in South America. One and half million people, or over ½ of Uruguay’s population reside in the capital city of Montevideo, located at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata. Cattle and sheep estancias (ranches) occupy over ¾ of the land. The coastline, however, is one long sandy beach. A scenic riverside road starting near the port and ending at the city limits links the beaches. Within the city proper, the beaches lie along the river, so water quality is not the best. Montevideo is an architect’s delight, with styles ranging from colonial to art deco.

 

 

 

The Interior of the Palacio Legislativo in Montevideo

A city tour of this compact city can be accomplished in a few hours. The most impressive landmark is the 3 story Palacio Legislatvio built in 1908. This Legislative Palace is open to the public and worth a trip inside. A statue of General Gervasio Artigas, the Father of Uruguay, is the focal point of Independence Square in the center of town. The General’s ashes are contained at the base of the statue and at night a spotlight is turned on the urn so that he will never be in the dark. Perhaps the most interesting museum in Montevideo is the Museo Del Gaucho Y La Moneda. This museum pays homage to the heart and soul of Uruguay, the gaucho. There is even an impressive matte display (a hollowed out gourd that is used for "cowboy tea"). The Museo Historico Nacional is another option. Take a walk past the 18th century buildings in Ciudad Vieja (Old Town), or stroll along La Rambla, the street that follows the beaches from Old City to Carrasco. In the afternoon and on weekends the Mercado Del Puerto, the Port Market, is always bustling.

 

Markets to visit: Villa Biarritz Fair at Parqu de San martin-Ellauri is open Sat 9 – 3

Mercado Del Puerto, the Port Market, is always bustling

De la Abundancia / Artesanos is a combined food and handicraft market at San Jose 1312

You will find lots of tour operators with English speaking guides on the dock that will provide you with a private tour at a very reasonable price.

Jan 30 - Sun Buenos Aires Argentina Arrive 8am

Jan 31 - Mon Buenos Aires Argentina Disembark ship am

 

Buenos Aires

 

With its Old World architecture, broad avenues, smart shops, and lush plazas and parks, Buenos Aires is a city of beauty and sophistication -- but what you may remember best is not buildings or boulevards. What sets Buenos Aires apart is the vibrant Latin spirit of its residents. It is a spirit you can feel throughout the city, on bustling sidewalks, in lively sidewalk cafes and especially in the many clubs where you can see the fiery steps of the tango, the passionate dance that was born here. The first taste of authentic tango is a revelation, a memory to be treasured.

 

Buenos Aires is often dubbed the "The Paris of South America," but parts of the city may remind you of Barcelona or Rome, as well. The capital of the world's eighth largest country and home to nearly 12 million people, this city beside the Rio de la Plata River was built by European immigrants and clearly shows the influence of its early settlers from France and Spain. Dozens of restaurants attest to the presence of a large Italian community, which makes up nearly half the population. Buenos Aires is the 9th largest city in the world.

 

Speaking of dining, the best culinary experience in Buenos Aires is sampling the famous tender beef, the product of one of Argentina's 50 million alfalfa-fed, free-range cattle. A feast of grilled beef at one of the many all-you-can-eat restaurants is one of the city's great pleasures, especially if you pair it with an excellent Argentinean wine.

 

 

 

 

The Recoleta Cemetery: is the oldest in Buenos Aires created in 1822 and covers 4 city blocks. It is adorned with works by local and international sculptors. More than 64oo mausoleums form an architectural free for all, including Greek temples and pyramids. It is here that Eva Peron is buried and her tomb is still heaped with flowers and letters from adorning fans. To prevent her body from being stolen (as it once was in 1955) she has been buried in a concrete vault 27ft underground. Eva Peron is the only non-elite person buried in this cemetery. To an Argentine it is very important to be buried here if you can afford as it. If you can find someone willing so sell space here it goes for about $20,000. per sq. meter.

 

 

The Caminito Capture the flavor of early Buenos Aries on this short historic street located in the neighborhood of La Boca on the banks of the Rio Riachuelo. Caminito is both an outdoor museum and a marketplace. Surrounding the cobblestone street are shabby metal houses painted in dynamic shades of red, yellow, blue, and green. Today many artists live and work here. Along the Caminito, art and souvenir vendors’ work side by side with tango performers – this is the one place where we won’t have to pay to see Argentine’s great dance. This area was settled mainly by Italian/Spanish/Portuguese immigrants who worked in the ship yards and although they were poor they wanted bright colors reminiscent of home so they brought home paint from the shipyards and hence the brightly colored homes.

Visit the antiques market on Sunday 10 – 5 in San Telmo where we can buy leather, silver, handicrafts etc. in the Plaza Dorrego. San Telmo is Buenos Aires oldest neighborhood. Originally the city’s elite lived here but after yellow fever ravaged the city in the 1870’s the elite moved north to be replaced by poor immigrants with the homes being converted to tenements, called conventillos.

Casa Rosada (Pink house) is the office of the Argentine President and located on the Plaza de Mayo. It is from the balcony of the Casa Rosada mansion that Eva Peron addressed adoring crowds of Argentine workers. We can view the changing of the guard in front of the palace every hour.

 

Colon Theater Buenos Aires golden age of prosperity gave birth to this luxurious opera house. The project took close to 80 years to complete; but the result is spectacular. The majestic building, completed in 1908, combines a variety of European styles, from Ionic to Corinthian capitals and French stained-glass pieces in the main entrance to the Italian marble staircase and French furniture, chandeliers, and vases in the Golden Hall. In the main theater – which seats 2500 – an enormous chandelier hangs from the domed ceiling painted by Raul Soldi. The theatre’s acoustics are world-renowned.

 

Weather in Buenos Aires in January – HOT probably in the high 80’s and humid

 

Our tour here is hosted by Defrantur Tours:

 

 

Jan 30th we will meet our tour guide at 9am in the lobby for a full day tour which will include a visit to a estancia (ranch) for a gaucho demonstration and a BBQ lunch, a city tour and at a river tour on the Tigre River we return to the ship at 7pm $88.

This was a wonderful day tour filled with excitement and fun!

We started the day with a tour of the highlights of Buenos Aires – including stops at the Recoleta Cemetery, Cathedral, and Caminito. Then it was off to the Estancia Santa Susana for the ranch experience. Upon arrival we were greeted by a Gaucho with wine or champagne and meat pastries , we could go horse back riding or take a ride in a horse drawn wagon, watch the Gauchos BBQ our lunch meats of beef, pork, lamb & chichken, stroll the extensive grounds or walk through the original homestead which is now a museum. After the delicious lunch accompanied by beer, wine, pop, or water we were entertained by tango dancers who were followed by gauchos both dancing and playing musical instruments. Once the inside entertainment was complete it was outside to the riding ring for a demonstration of the gauchos horsemanship. We left the ranch and drove to the Tigre River where we boarded a launch for a tour of the River Delta.

 

Jan 31 disembark from “Infinity” end of cruise. Defrantur Tours again transferred us to the airport for our flight to Iguazzu .

 

Jan 31 Iguazu Falls Trip

 

Geographic Description: From its source in the Serra do Mar, not far from the Atlantic coast, the Rio Iguazu (or Iguassu) flows westward for about 820 miles across southern Brazil. Gathering tributaries, the river grows steadily in volume as it meanders across the uplands of the Parana Plateau. Step by step it makes its way toward sea level, tumbling over some 70 waterFalls that interrupt its course. One of them, Nacunday Falls, has a drop of 131 feet, nearly that of Niagara Falls.

 

But the river takes its grandest leap just a short distance above its confluence with the Parana, where the Iguazu forms a boundary between Argentina and Brazil. Plunging at last off the edge of the plateau, the river thunders down in what one observer likened to the "awesome spectacle of an ocean pouring into an abyss." The thunderous roaring of the water can be heard from miles away.

 

Strung out along the rim of a crescent-shaped cliff about 2.5 miles long is a series of some 275 individual cascades and waterFalls separated by rocky, densely wooded islets. Some of the cascades plummet straight down for 269 feet into the gorge below. Others are interrupted by ledges and send up clouds of mist and spray, creating a dazzling display of rainbows.

 

The Falls, which would be memorable in any setting, are made all the more beautiful by their lush surroundings. The luxuriant forests are filled with bamboo, palms, and delicate tree ferns. Brilliantly feathered parrots and macaws flit through the foliage, competing for attention with the exotic blooms of wild orchids, begonias, and bromeliads.

 

The name Iguazu simply means "great waters" in the local Indian language. According to legend, the great waterfall was created in an outburst of rage by the god of the Iguazu River, who lived in a particularly wild and violent area of the downpour called the Garganta do Diablo (Devil's Throat). The Falls are close to the point where the Iguazu and the Parana rivers join and the boundaries of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay converge.

 

Here we stayed at the Sheraton hotel which is the only hotel inside of the Iguazzu national Park and it overlooks the Falls. It is the only hotel I would stay in if you go there. It was an awe Inspiring sight and worth the extra time and expense.

Our guide in Iguazzu was Saulo Campos who spoke perfect English and stayed with us the entire time we were in Iguazzu. I definitely recommend Saulo

 

Feb 1 Marriott Hotel in Buenos Aires Back in Buenos Aires we were again met by Ricardo of Defrantur Tours and transferred to our hotel.

 

Feb 2 Fly home to USA – Ricardo picked us up in the morning at 9am to take us to do our last minute souvenir shopping. He then took us to a great restaurant for lunch before transferring us to the airport and helping us to check in.

 

I highly recommend Ricardo of Defrantur Tours for all of your travel needs in and around Buenos Aires – Ricardo also did all of the arrangements for our trip to Iguazzu including both air & hotel & guide.

[Host CMLA]

Thank you for the wonderful review. It helped me to relive my own South American cruise in 2002. I did have to edit your post though. I edited out the information that didn't meet our board guidelines. You can't include web links or e mail addresses to companies selling tours. Sorry for any inconvenience.

[kannna]

Happy Gal,

We are going on the same cruise as your first leg in December on the Infinity on our Holiday honeymoon. I loved your review it was very informative and it sounds like you and your friends had tons of fun. Were you on the Infinity is it a lovely ship? Would you mind e-mailing me the information about the private tour companies you used and enjoyed thank you Kannna67@aol.com.

 

Kannna

[wfern]

Thanks for a great review. Leaving 3/5 for SA Cruise so all very good information for my trip. wfern

[Aussie Gal]

BCHappy Gal,

 

Thank you for writing such a great review. I am looking forward to rereading it and filing it away for future reference for next January. It must have taken ages to write.

 

Jennie

[BCHappyGal]

Dear Kanna

 

I will be happy to e-mail you the web links & e-mails of our tour companies.

 

For anyone else who wants the names of the tour companies from my above review (as I cannot post them herre) plese feel free to e-mail me and ask for them. Or ask any other question and I will answer if I can.

ann @ century 21 vancouver . com

 

this was a wonderful trip for all of us. Yes we were on Celebritiy's Infinity which is a beautiful modern ship with lots of amenities and space for all. The only thing that is in short supply is storage / cupboard space when you pack for a Hot & Cold cruise and for a month. However that is only minor and you can always manage. Things about Celebrity -

1) I think the food is slightly above that of some of the other lines I have been on.

2) I find the staff to have a better command of english than on any other line that I have ever cruised on (Yes Princess, Holland America, Carnival ++) which means that because they can understand you better you get better service although the better is only minute as all cruise ships give great service.

3) Celebrity's shore excursions descriptions and the ability of their shore excursions staff to answer questions about a particular shore excursion is poor. To the point that they provide wrong information just to sell the tour.

I find that Princess really excells at this!

4) I really liked the way Celebrity hosted the Captain's Club cocktail party - they make it a real "Classy Affair" (much better than the similar event hosted by holland America)

5) The fact that Celebrity supports Crusie Critic and hosts a Cruise Critic Party so that all of us Cruise Addicts can get together and meet is a real ++

(Yes I got a picture of the CC Gang on our Valparaiso - Buenos Aires cruise and once I figure out how to upload a photo to the board I will post it for all to enjoy.)

6) The fact that Celebrity hosted a get together for all of the Back 2 Back cruisers.

7) Celebrity made all of their hosted parties classy right from the start - simply by inviting you with a proper printed invitation card

8) Embarkation with Celebrity was well organized and efficient as was disembarkation.

9) I really like Celebrity's Priority Tendering for Elite Captains Club Members or those in suites - This would be enough to give Celebrity an edge over any of the other cruise lines should I be between A or B in booking a cruise.

 

Happy Cruising

Ann

[smj]

Happy Gal,

 

Thanks for the information. It is an excellent review. I would like your openion on a matter. Do you think it best to go to Peru and the Argentina ports by ship or use Ricardo DeFranco and do a land package?

 

Steve

[BCHappyGal]

Dear Steve

 

You are asking that question of an addicted cruiser :>:>:>

Of course I think the cruise is the way to go. i also find cruising to be cheaper than an comparable land package. However that is IMO. Also with the crusie we unpacked once only and got to visit 14 ports. The only minus to cruising is that you are in each port for only 1 day and sometimes there are more things you want to do in that port than you can fit into 1 day.

 

However - no matter which way you go use Ricardo he is great.

 

Ann

[smj]

Ann,

 

I too am addicted to cruising but we used Ricardo a few weeks ago for pre-cruise stays in Buenos Aires and Iguazu. That was the best part of the trip. Buenos Aires and the falls needed so much more time than one day, everything was so affordable and Ricardo's services very exceptional. We are considering a trip to Peru in May. What do you think? Is Lima a place we would like for several days? Again thanks for the review.

 

Steve

[BCHappyGal]

Bump

[earljr]

Ann - A really interesting and informative review. I printed it out and have put it in our SA cruise folder. We are doing the cruise from BA to Fll beginning on March 9, '06 on the Regal Princess. We have been cruising for many years but this will be our first "biggy" I have sent you a E-mail and would appreciate the info on your tour contacts. Thank you- Earl

[earljr]

HI Ann - My Emails to you keep coming back as undeliverable. So here is mine - thanks -- earl

 

Klema@earthlink.net

[fancycroozer]

Ann,

 

Wonderful review and insight. Thanks much. We are planning this trip for 3/06 and would love to have the touring information as well. If you can find the time, please e-mail to me at nsmoot@specialtyalloys.com would really appreciate it.

[Host CMLA]

I will be happy to e-mail you the web links & e-mails of our tour companies.

 

For anyone else who wants the names of the tour companies from my above review (as I cannot post them herre) plese feel free to e-mail me and ask for them. Or ask any other question and I will answer if I can.

ann @ century 21 vancouver . com

Ann...I wanted to make sure you understood the guidelines about posting contact info, etc for tour companies. I hope this makes sense and isn't too complicated. If someone asks you for the web links to the tour companies you used, you can give them those links on the board. You don't have to have members e mail you. The guideline for the board is that you can't give that information unless it's asked. In your original review, you gave the links and contact information without being asked for it. Even though you probably don't work for the tour companies and you have nothing to gain by mentioning the tour company, too many tour operators disquise themselves as members and come to the board specifically to promote certain tour companies. That's why we remove links, etc. from posts where no one has asked for that information. But after your review was posted, and other members wanted those links and did ask you for them, you can give them. Web site links to tour operators, names and even phone numbers are allowed ONLY if someone has asked for them. Make sense? So please share your tour information with anyone that asks. Just don't volunteer lnks, etc to companies that no one has asked about. Thanks.

[BCHappyGal]

Dear Host Cecilia

 

Thank you for clearing that up. However still unsure if my whole list of contacts is allowed??

You are right I am not a tour guide or tour company. I just love to travel & especially to cruise!

I am happy to share the information with the folks that ask.

I now have it typed up so I can just add the information as an attachment when I reply to folks asking for it.

Can I now put up the whole list of names? If so I will do so at a later date.

 

Ann

[Host CMLA]

I am happy to share the information with the folks that ask. I now have it typed up so I can just add the information as an attachment when I reply to folks asking for it.

Can I now put up the whole list of names? If so I will do so at a later date.

I'm sorry for the confusion and for the roundabout way in which this has to happen. Because other members have asked you for your tour info, you can post all of it. Members have asked. That's 100% OK.

[Lvteks]

I would like to have all your tour info....have really hung on to every word....especially the Falls. I'll try to email to get some idea of your costs for that one.

Blessings,

[BCHappyGal]

To all of you who have asked below I have pasted in my list of tour companies and tour guides which we used while on our wonderful South American Cruise in January of 2005. I can recommend all of these companies. In every single port we enjoyed a very good tour. In some places our tour far surpassed very good and was SUPERLATIVE!

 

 

Best Tour Guides For South America

 

Arica Chile

 

Company - Vicuna Tours Owner - Gerardo Perez victours@terra.cl

 

Ask for tour guide – Paulina & Driver – Amondo

 

Ask to eat at the Don Floro Restaurant

 

Lima Peru

 

Company – Peru Gateway Travel Orquidea Tours Jeimy@destinationserver.biz

 

Ask for guide “Snow”

 

Iguazzu Falls Argentina

 

Guide – Saulo Campos saulocampos@pop.com.br

 

Buenos Aires Argentina

 

Company – Defrantur Tours Owner – Ricardo Defranco Defrantur@fibertel.com.ar

http://www.defrantur.com

 

Falkland Islands

 

Falkland Islands Tours & Travel Owner – Andy Guide - Barbara fitt@horizon.co.fl

 

Puerto Madryn Argentina

 

Vanesa at whalespatagonia@infovia.com.ar

 

Montevideo Uruguay

 

R & P Owner / Driver Ricardo Palleiro Guide – Marta msmtaiz@hotmail.com

 

Punta Arenas Chile

 

Driver – Alberto Hutt Coleman (could speak English and had more knowledge than the guide Rod (Robert Marcus) find Alberto at http://www.vientosur.com or e-mail Agencia@vientosur.com

 

 

 

Puerto Montt

 

Company – Aqua Motion Tours http://www.aqua-motion.com info@aquamotion.cl

 

Ask for guide Paulina Acuna Meier acuameier@yahoo.es

 

Chile

 

Terracota Excursions – http://www.terracotachile.cl e-mail Maria Isabel Sagues at mabel@terracotchile.cl

 

For 1 company that will arrange all of your Chile tours use Terracota Tours

 

Manta Ecuador

 

Company – Metropolitian Touring Owner – Maria metroman1@systray.net

Our Guide here was Sylvia

 

For a half day tour of Manta you should only pay $30.

Make sure you stop by a grocery store and buy yourself a donzen long stem roses for $1.

 

Valparaiso Chile

 

Company – Terracota Excursions – http://www.terracotachile.cl

E-mail Maria at mabel@terracotachile.cl

 

Terracota Excursions actually arranged all of our Chile Tours and did a very good job. It made it much easier for me only having to contact 1 person for all of our tour needs in Chile. However Terracota Excursions actually sub-contracted out our tours to companies in the other cities and I have actually given you the names of the companies that actually provided us with the tours.

 

Hope the above helps all of you currently planning your cruises to SA.

 

The hardest thing is always finding your guide in the big ports where they are not allowed to come to the gangplank to pick you up.

the big ports were:

Lima Peru - here you take the ships/ports dock shuttle bus across the very busy docks to the ports main entrance. Just inside the main entrance you get off the shuttle bus. Proceed to walk to the pedestrial exit, which is a turnstile, exit through the turnstile and just on the other side of the turnstile you will find your guide holding up a sign with your name on it.

Valparaiso - here again you take the ships/ports shuttle bus to the main terminal and actually exit through the terminal building. In front of the terminal building you will find your guide agian with a sign with yoru name on it. (yes the shuttle bus ride for us was about 20 minutes along the docks)

Buenos Aires - here again you take the ships/ports shuttle bus to the main terminal and actually exit through the terminal building. In front of the terminal building you will find your guide agian with a sign with your name on it.

 

If any of you have any specific questions just e-mail me at ann @ cnetury 21 vancouver . com

 

Enjoy your cruise.

 

Ann

[Aussie Gal]

Ann,

 

Thanks for that information on whom you used. It is much appreciated.

 

Jennie

[Lvteks]

Did you plan a cruise on the Zuiderdam around Dec 04, or the Med in May-June 05? If I have the right person, I have benefited often from your posts....and it's fun to put a face (your Avatar) with the messages.

 

Blessings,

 

BTW I guess should get a pic with my Dh and sixth child...(my Pontiac Aztek...aka The Texas Eagle.)

[Lvteks]

Ann,

 

Thanks so much for your teriffic information. I have a great time studying material and planning trips. this will be a great help. hats off the you. All your talent for observation and demonstration with limited time and space is quite obvious.

 

I was with C-21 in the founding years...nobody knew what we were. Well we were the first company to open the area to MLS as well as C-21's marketing concepts. We owned the market after that. It was fantastic....had a very cooperative office. As top producers we knew if we worked together we all did better. It was a busy, hectic and rewarding adventure. I actually attended one of their first National Conventions...in New Orleans. One of my highlights was teaching R. E. for several colleges and conducting the GRI Management course. Now many many miles and years away, I get to manage trips. It's so much fun!

 

Blessings,

[Aussie Gal]

Lvtecks,

 

Thanks for the compliment. I enjoy being able to pass on information I have gathered from where we have travelled over the years. That is the best part of this Board.

 

We are going on the Maasdam in July from Boston to Rotterdam and then in January we are off on this wonderful cruise from Rio to Valpariso. Pre-cruise we are staying in Rio and going to the Iguazu Falls and post cruise we are going to Cusco and Machu Picchu and then to Quito and the Galapagos Islands so unfortunately we will not be in the Med this year or on the Zuiderdam.

 

We are planning to go on the Zeendam in September 2006 from Vancouver, through the Panama and up the Amazon and finishing in Tampa.

 

Perhaps we will meet someday, somewhere.

 

Jennie

[BCHappyGal]

Dear Aussie Gal

 

As a Vancouverite if you need any information on Vancouver for your pre crusie time before your 2006 repositioning cruise just ask away. i will be only too happy to help you out.

 

A good web site to visit to see Vancouver area attractions is http://www.vcmbc.com

 

Ann

[Aussie Gal]

Thanks Ann,

 

For your offer of help. I have Bookmarked the website and will look at it more closely after I have finished our next two big cruises.

 

Jennie

[BCHappyGal]

Dear Jenie

 

Lucky you having 3 cruises booked. My DH would have a fit!!! All he can handle is 1 at a time even though I am his Travel Fairy and all he does is show up / go along on the dates and flights I book then onto the ship and shore excursions.

 

Ann