Amalfi on our own

[irishayes]

We are arriving in Salerno on June 5, 2014 and are in port from 7 am to 6 pm that day.

 

We definitely want to see Pompeii, experience the Amalfi Coast, and see possibly Positano and Ravello. Is this possible to do with public transportation? Or would we need to rent a car to make all this happen?

 

If we need to rent a car, can we do this right off the ship in Salerno?

 

Do not want to go on a guided tour, so need some guidance.

 

Thanks!

[euro cruiser]

While there are public buses, they will be crowded.

 

If you are comfortable driving that would be the most expedient method, but you must realize that you'd be dealing with a lot of traffic and very limited parking in the towns along the coast.

 

Perhaps you can do a both/and solution, and use the train from Salerno to Pompei and then from Pompei to Sorrento in the morning, then at Sorrento hire a car and driver for the afternoon to take you down the coast.

[irishayes]

OK, so how would I go about getting a private driver?

 

Anything I have found is ridiculously priced for only two of us--they are in an 8-passenger van and meant to be shared between all the passengers. How do we find someone to drive us from Sorrento down the coast?

[euro cruiser]

There are Sorrento-based car services; if no one here steps up with a recommendation you might ask over on Trip Advisor.

 

By the way, I'd also get quotes for a full day with a driver from Salerno ... just in case the full day rate isn't that much more than the half day.

Edited March 31, 2014 by euro cruiser

[Hlitner]

We agree with Euro-cruiser. While it is possible to visit the towns of Amalfi and Positano by using the regional SITA buses, they can be quite crowded during the busy tourist season and do not run as often as one would like. As to Ravello, getting there by bus is a bit of a hassle. You would first have to take the SITA bus to Amalfi, and then transfer to a local bus that runs between the main square and Ravello. But this local bus only runs about once every 45 min and used to not run at all for a couple of hours around lunch time.

 

As to rental cars, we have done a lot of driving in this region and its our preferred method of transportation when we spend time in Italy. But parking in (or near) Positano is a real challenge, and the traffic on the Amalfi Drive (especially when you are close to Positano) can be maddening during the height of the tourist season.

 

Hank

[texancruzer]

Try this ……

 

http://www.aptours.it/en/Tour_pompei_and_amalfi_coast_from_Sorrento_port

 

The fee is 250 euros for 1-3 people. While that might sound a bit high, it is for approximately 9 hours.

 

So take 250 divided by 9 = @ 28 euros per hour divided by 2 people and it works out to 14 euros per person per hour…..

 

Take into consideration you have a driver (who knows the area and how to drive the Amalfi coast - a big plus for us) a nice a/c car and the price of gas, insurance etc…… and it is not unreasonable.

 

We also know this company to be very reliable in getting you back to the ship on time….which can be tricky with summer traffic or if there is an accident on the Amalfi coast. An accident can clog up the road for hours…… but they stay in touch with the office and know pretty quickly the road conditions and can take an alternate route if necessary.

 

We have used them for every visit to Naples and will do so again if and when we get back for a 5th visit :D

[irishayes]

Thank you! Very helpful!!!

 

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Hlitner]

Had to smile at Texancruzer's comment about getting a driver that "knows how to drive the Amalfi coast." Having spend a few lengthy trips along the coast (about 5 miles from Positano) we have never found driving to be a great challenge, but parking is a totally different story. When we stay in Praiano, we will often leave our car parked at our hotel and take the local "Orange" bus when we want to go into Positano for dinner. The parking situation at Positano is among the worst we have seen anywhere in Italy and is probably what drove Italians to learn how to curse and wave their hands (when cursing). Parking in Amalfi is not nearly as bad, although the one main parking area (located on a pier near the square) can be full...causing a wait for a spot. Parking at Ravello is actually quite easy.

 

Hank

Edited March 31, 2014 by Hlitner

[texancruzer]

Had to smile at Texancruzer's comment about getting a driver that "knows how to drive the Amalfi coast." Having spend a few lengthy trips along the coast (about 5 miles from Positano) we have never found driving to be a great challenge, but parking is a totally different story. When we stay in Praiano, we will often leave our car parked at our hotel and take the local "Orange" bus when we want to go into Positano for dinner. The parking situation at Positano is among the worst we have seen anywhere in Italy and is probably what drove Italians to learn how to curse and wave their hands (when cursing). Parking in Amalfi is not nearly as bad, although the one main parking area (located on a pier near the square) can be full...causing a wait for a spot. Parking at Ravello is actually quite easy.

 

Hank

 

Oh Hank Hank Hank…… seriously ? ….. You really can't tell me that when encountering a large tour bus on that tiny twisty drop-off-on-one-side road and watching the delicate dance that the other traffic does to "get by" is not only a challenge but a GREAT challenge. I have literally held my breath more than once to feel skinnier as the bus goes by my side of the car/van with no more than an inch or two to spare.

 

And yes parking plays in to the whole scenario too…… and we love how we get dropped off as close as possibly possible while our driver drives the car/van to the nearest parking lot that has room (which is not always the closest one) only to come back and pick us up where we were dropped off at a set time.

 

I don't know but that sounds a lot better to me than the hassle of buses, trains, rental cars etc. to someone who has NOT traveled this area before…..

 

just sayin' ;)

[CintiPam]

Has anyone taken one of the small boat tours of this area? (Could not find any reports using the "search" function.) We will be in Amalfi for a day in late May, and one of our fellow cruisers was looking into a company called Amalfi Marine Private Boat Tours.

 

Thanks for any info.

[Bobal]

The easiest way to get to Positano from Salerno is by ferry. Likewise, if you catch the ferry to Amalfi, once there you can catch the local bus up to Ravello right from the square where the ferry drops you. The ferries are not running currently but will start operating soon for the summer season. However, this link will give you an idea of the timings http://www.theamalficoast.net/amalfi/english/amalfi_coast_ferries.html

 

The bus from Amalfi to Ravello departs from the main Piazza alongside the harbor, about 50m from where the larger SITA buses from Sorrento and Salerno terminate. You'll identify the stop for the Ravello bus from the canopy on the eastern end of the Piazza (and the large crowds waiting to board the bus, which can seat only about 35, with another 10 standing, so you have to be prepared to stand your ground to board the bus.

 

I think that, even if you hire a private driver, you're being ambitious trying to do the above and Pompei in one day. The roads at that time of year will be very very busy. Additionally, I have been told by my son - who lives in Salerno - that there has been some landslip on the coastal road from Salerno which has caused increased delays as detours have to be made. Whether this will be repaired by June is anyone's guess. ;)

 

There isn't a direct train from Salerno to Pompei Scavi (which is the station next to the excavation site), so you would need to get a train to the main Pompei station and then a taxi to the site. Trains are fairly frequent and take around 40 minutes.

Edited April 2, 2014 by Bobal

[texancruzer]

I think that, even if you hire a private driver, you're being ambitious trying to do the above and Pompei in one day.

 

I agree.

 

While we have gone (from Naples) to Pompeii, Ravello, Amalfi, Positano and then to Sorrento to take the ferry back to Naples ALL IN ONE DAY…. we did so (numerous times) in the off season. Our most recent visit being last October.

 

June is high season and the roads, the sites and restaurants and shops will be packed !!!!!

 

Again this is where the tour company can realistically tell you what can and cannot be done in one day. They know the area, they know the roads, they know the traffic that time of year and lastly they know where there is construction or other things that might delay you (possibly causing you to miss the ship) ……. this is one port that we do not do DIY (and we do it ourselves a lot)

Edited April 2, 2014 by texancruzer

[Hlitner]

Oh Hank Hank Hank…… seriously ? ….. You really can't tell me that when encountering a large tour bus on that tiny twisty drop-off-on-one-side road and watching the delicate dance that the other traffic does to "get by" is not only a challenge but a GREAT challenge. I have literally held my breath more than once to feel skinnier as the bus goes by my side of the car/van with no more than an inch or two to spare.

 

And yes parking plays in to the whole scenario too…… and we love how we get dropped off as close as possibly possible while our driver drives the car/van to the nearest parking lot that has room (which is not always the closest one) only to come back and pick us up where we were dropped off at a set time.

 

I don't know but that sounds a lot better to me than the hassle of buses, trains, rental cars etc. to someone who has NOT traveled this area before…..

 

just sayin' ;)

 

Hahahha. DW just reminded me of all the times we have to open our car windows, reach outside, and turn-in the sideview mirrors so we have enough room to squeeze through the "stand offs" with large buses. But it actually is a very safe process and we have never seen an accident along this road (except for a motorcycle who met a bus). The process for those squeeze points (mostly near Positano) is quite practiced! There will usually be a local (or a driver) who will get out of their vehicle and play traffic cop. Being Italian, there are always plenty of hand gestures (and sometimes raised voices) which is all part of the charm. I am constantly amazed at the skill of the bus drivers who are able to move those huge buses through places with less then an inch to spare on either side.

 

Having done a lot of driving in Italy we actually consider the Amalfi drive one of the good roads. Anyone who decides to drive the lake-side road between Como and Bellagio should first do some training by driving on the Amalfi Drive.

 

Hank

Edited April 2, 2014 by Hlitner

[mydreamvacation]

Those big buses can get down I can't remember if it was in Sorrento positive, but the sedan that we hired was able to drive us all the way down the roads are too narrow for a big bus to make it That's a long walk they do have some little tourist shuttle buses that I would recommend the private driver if you're going to be trying to do several places at once Our driver was great he knew he

which direction would have the least amount of traffic we did Pompeii at the end where most people do it in the beginning that's when you're going to hit all the buses. Plus if there's an accident on those narrow roads you're not going anywhere and the ship to leave without you I'd rather have a local who knows shortcuts or is brave enough to drive up on the shoulder

[Hlitner]

Those big buses can get down I can't remember if it was in Sorrento positive, but the sedan that we hired was able to drive us all the way down the roads are too narrow for a big bus to make it That's a long walk they do have some little tourist shuttle buses that I would recommend the private driver if you're going to be trying to do several places at once Our driver was great he knew he

which direction would have the least amount of traffic we did Pompeii at the end where most people do it in the beginning that's when you're going to hit all the buses. Plus if there's an accident on those narrow roads you're not going anywhere and the ship to leave without you I'd rather have a local who knows shortcuts or is brave enough to drive up on the shoulder

 

I think you are referring to the town of Positano, which is the primary destination on the Amalfi Drive. Tour buses are not permitted (by law) to enter in the Positano. This leads to one of the big "cons" of cruise line Amalfi Coast excursions. Many excursions to this area (on large buses) will use language such as "you will get to see the hillside town of Positano." And they are correct, you will get to "SEE" the city. But they do often forget to tell their clients that "seeing" is not the same as actually being in the city. Because those on the large tour buses will pull-over along the Amalfi Drive so their passengers can stand along the road and gaze down at beautiful Positano. But they will not get a chance to go down into the charming town, walk its streets, shop in its stores, eat in their restaurants/cafes, etc.

 

This is why we strongly recommend that anyone wanting to see the Amalfi Coast on a tour book a small private tour where you are transported in a car of van.

 

Hank

[texancruzer]

I will also add that if you get to go into Positano, be aware that what goes down must come back up :D

 

Meaning: the whole village is on a steep mountain. It is all steps and inclines. Where the driver will let you off is fairly level but then you head down down down…… especially if you want to experience the beach. There are wonderful shops, restaurants and more all along the pedestrian walk BUT remember if you go down - you gotta come back up. So if there are any mobility/walking issues (or you are just not in tip-top shape - as am I) allow time to take it slow;)

[karenbeanpole]

We are tendering in Sorrento and would like to do the Amalfi coast - basically Positano and Amalfi. Was thinking of going in the public bus as soon as we can get off the ship onto a tender to beat the queues.

Can anyone who is experienced in this area tell me if this is a bad idea since there are suggestions that June (when we are there) is high season and the whole things is too busy and crowded. Or is it a good experience to mingle and do it the local way?

I would also like to know if anyone thinks that going round by ferry is a better idea, or do we miss out on the view.....

We were thinking of going by bus and returning to Sorrento by ferry, but finding it difficult to find ferry timings.

[agabbymama]

Had to smile at Texancruzer's comment about getting a driver that "knows how to drive the Amalfi coast." Having spend a few lengthy trips along the coast (about 5 miles from Positano) we have never found driving to be a great challenge, but parking is a totally different story. When we stay in Praiano, we will often leave our car parked at our hotel and take the local "Orange" bus when we want to go into Positano for dinner. The parking situation at Positano is among the worst we have seen anywhere in Italy and is probably what drove Italians to learn how to curse and wave their hands (when cursing). Parking in Amalfi is not nearly as bad, although the one main parking area (located on a pier near the square) can be full...causing a wait for a spot. Parking at Ravello is actually quite easy.

 

Hank

 

Hank, Hank, Hank,

 

Have to disagree with you on driving in Italy. After our 28 days/approx 4000 mile driving trip down the East coast, crossing over to Sicily and back up the West coast of Italy, DRIVING IN ITALY is not for the faint of heart.

My husband is a pretty experienced driver, but even he became exasperated with Italian drivers. I would never attempt to drive anywhere in Italy on my own. Vespas run red lights, even cars want you to run red lights, and you darn well better be in the right lane on the autostrada or you will get run over. NOBODY abides by the speed limit, EVER. We spent 3 hours in Palermo trying to find our hotel, gave up, and finally made an illegal u-turn to get back on the highway out of town. Finally found a hotel that had vacancy in Cefalu and took the train back to Palermo.

 

Italy is a whole different ballgame when it comes to driving. We started leaving the car outside the cities, and taking the train into the city. You may look at those incidents with humor, to me NOT FUN! And I would rather someone had been truthful and forthright in the facts.

 

I'll book a tour (even if it means traveling with 30-40 other people) or hire a tour guide for a personal tour any day. JMHO

[General Max]

Hank, Hank, Hank,

 

Have to disagree with you on driving in Italy. After our 28 days/approx 4000 mile driving trip down the East coast, crossing over to Sicily and back up the West coast of Italy, DRIVING IN ITALY is not for the faint of heart.

My husband is a pretty experienced driver, but even he became exasperated with Italian drivers. I would never attempt to drive anywhere in Italy on my own. Vespas run red lights, even cars want you to run red lights, and you darn well better be in the right lane on the autostrada or you will get run over. NOBODY abides by the speed limit, EVER. We spent 3 hours in Palermo trying to find our hotel, gave up, and finally made an illegal u-turn to get back on the highway out of town. Finally found a hotel that had vacancy in Cefalu and took the train back to Palermo.

 

Italy is a whole different ballgame when it comes to driving. We started leaving the car outside the cities, and taking the train into the city. You may look at those incidents with humor, to me NOT FUN! And I would rather someone had been truthful and forthright in the facts.

 

I'll book a tour (even if it means traveling with 30-40 other people) or hire a tour guide for a personal tour any day. JMHO

 

I agree. Book an eight passenger van to tour the Amalfi Coast, ask some other fellow cruisers on Celebrity to join you and share the cost. You can book one with your credit card and pay on the day of the tour.

 

I have booked two vans and have committed to 10 fellow passengers. My credit card is on the line for 1000 Euros if we don't show up.

 

Check out the Amalfi Coast tour with http://www.romeinlimo.com

Edited April 6, 2014 by General Max

[euro cruiser]

Driving in Italy today is vastly different than it was even just ten years ago, particularly on the autostrade. There are now speed cameras along the length of the road and average speeds starting dropping rather quickly after tickets became commonplace.

[Hlitner]

Was going to add the info about speeding but Euro Cruiser beat me to it :). I have posted, many times, that our days of speeding in Western Europe have come to an end (except on some of the Autobahns in Germany). Speed cameras keep proliferating as the European governments realize it is an easy way to make money. Speeding fines can be over 100 Euros plus the rental car companies generally add another 20-30 Euro "administrative fee." Tourists that unaware of these cameras can find hundreds of Euros of fines showing up on their credit card (the one you use to rent the car) several months after you return home.

 

As to the Italians (and this applies in most of Europe) rule of slower traffic keeping to the right...we say HOORAY! We are happy to see that some US States have recently adopted "slow traffic must keep to the right laws" in the past couple of years.

 

Hank

Edited April 6, 2014 by Hlitner