Sony A6000

[pierces]

That was quick! (Amazon distro is only about 35 miles away.)

 

It arrived right as I was signing off from work, so I slapped it on the A6300 (closer to me than the A6000) and took it for a test drive.

 

Since my go-to lens is the 18-105 f/4 G, the size wasn't shocking. As a matter of fact, it wasn't much different at all (see below). Both take 72mm filters, both are about 3" in diameter and though the Sony is about ¼" longer, the Rokinon weighs about 150 grams more. Build is solid and the focus and aperture rings operate smoothly. The only real physical difference is the massive front element that feels like you're looking into the Eye of Sauron compared to the 18-105.

 

Notes:

 

- Very difficult to focus when close up at f/1.4. The depth of field is only about as thick as an iPhone. Contrast isn't as pronounced as it is when stopped down and it makes focus peaking less positive than usual at my normal medium setting.

 

- At working distances, it is much easier to focus and at anything over f/2, the edge contrast makes peaking light up like a Christmas tree.

 

- Slightly soft wide open but sharpens up pretty well at f/2. The softness is "pretty" though. It reminds me of an STF soft focus lens and may actually be better for portraiture

 

- It is manual. Really manual. In A mode, turning the aperture ring momentarily brightens or darkens the scene in the viewfinder but it returns to proper exposure quickly. Fortunately, I use my fisheye and 12mm f/2 fairly regularly and generally remember things like adjusting the aperture.

 

- No stabilization. 1/(focal length x 1.5 crop) shutter speed rule applies. Still subject and a monopod might help there.

 

-Some chromatic aberration and purple fringing at wide apertures (sort of normal for fast glass) but Lightroom sliders make it disappear easily. I will be setting up a preset for the lens.

 

-Bokeh is pretty smooth. The shot below with the palm fronds came out different than expected but I liked the result.

 

- Full-frame coverage for those who may be tempted by the FE cameras someday.

 

After this brief trial run, I have decided to hang onto it. I want to do a series of portraits for a family project and this looks to be a better choice for that than even the redoubtable 50mm f/1.8. At $238 it was a screaming bargain. At the regular price of $299, it is still way, way up on the bang-for-the-buck scale, IMHO. If you can afford the new 85mm f/1.4 G Master at 9x the price, it has tested as sharper with less CA. Is it 9x better? Buy me one and I'll do the comparison for free...

 

Samples:

 

Twinsies!

 

Near-1:1 crop of Cookie at f/2

 

f/1.4

 

f/4

 

1:1 crop at f/1.4 The flower is actually covered with fuzziness, so the seeds inside are the only real focus indicator (Focus was actually a bit behind the center of the flower top.)

 

1:1 crop at f/4

 

 

A few more in the next post....

 

Dave

[pierces]

...Continued from previous post.

 

12-15 ft at f/1.4

 

12-15 ft at f/6.3

 

1:1 crop at f/1.4

 

1:1 crop at f/6.3

 

f/8

 

1:1 (ish) crop at f/8

 

I'll post some of the portraits when I start the project.

 

 

Happy shooting!

 

Dave

[havoc315]

Lincoln Memorial during Golden Hour by Adam Brown, on Flickr

[skywalkr2]

Have had the a6000 for some time, and have a collection of lenses. Wanted to get feedback from you more knowledgeable folks about which lenses I should focus on for my upcoming Bermuda cruise. I am going to try to learn and better use Aperture priority since everyone is pushing it hard.

 

Here are my lenses:

 

1. 16-50 Kit

2. 55 - 210 Telephoto NOTE: I will always have this one in my bag just in case I need a zoom.

3. 35MM F1.8 sony - Which I tend to use as a carry around lens right now.

4. The old SEL16F28 - I need to use this more for wide angle, but when I started I used the 16-50 when I probably shouldn't have.

5. 60MM F2.8 Sigma - bought for Portraits, but would love to find other uses

[pierces]

In my experience, the 16-50, 55-210 and 35 f/1.8 would be all you would need for a great photo experience on a cruise. I looked long and hard at the 16 f/2.8 when I first got my NEX-7 but its distortion and corner softness wide open made it a no-go for me. I have found the 16-50 with auto-correct set to on produces some excellent images if you work within its limits.

 

This gallery from our fall colors cruise was shot primarily with the 16-50 for daytime walkabouts and the 55-210 for the longer shots. I used the 50 f/1.8 sparingly on the ship as well as the Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 (fantastic lens, though totally manual).

 

http://galleries.pptphoto.com/fallcolor

 

I have since replaced the 16-50 with the 18-105 as a single-lens option for most occasions but still use the 16-50 regularly when I want a smaller package to carry around. The 16-50 is very underrated and can be a very versatile travel lens. I have this photo printed at 24x36 on metal and I have never had anyone point out that it was shot with a "kit" lens. ;)

 

 

Almost forgot: 99% shot in Aperture Priority. :)

 

 

Dave

Edited August 15, 2016 by pierces

[skywalkr2]

For interior / dinner shots - the 50mm 1.8 is the best lens? It's what I really bought it for. I just need to learn how to really use it.

[pierces]

For interior / dinner shots - the 50mm 1.8 is the best lens? It's what I really bought it for. I just need to learn how to really use it.

 

You said you had the 35 f/1.8 and that would be a great lens for interior/dinner shots. I have the 50mm f/1.8 since my primary target was family portraits and not specifically for cruising. Your 35mm would be a better choice for the ship. For dinner shots, I tend to use the 16-50 simply for the convenience of its size. Same for most interior shots. For specific interiors or ship shots where I want a wide coverage, I'll either use the ultra-wide or a panorama.

 

12mm

 

It's nice to have a wide angle for these shots but if you don't, a three shot panorama at medium wide works fine.

 

panorama with zoom lens

 

 

The f/1.8 aperture does great in dim natural light:

 

 

When the light is better, the 16-50 does just fine.

 

 

The A6000 is a heck of a photographic tool and can produce great photo with nearly any lens you slap on the front.

 

Case in point. Here is a portrait of my granddaughter shot with a $30 35mm f/1.7 CCTV security camera lens adapted to the Sony e-mount:

 

 

The bottom line is don't worry too much about what you have connected to the camera and pay attention to the light, composition and having fun with your camera.

 

Dave

Edited August 15, 2016 by pierces

[wmjivey]

Been following Dave's advise for several cruises since I met him on a Foodie cruise to Alaska, He is right on with what to bring to get all the enjoyment from your trip. Now I have a question which might of been answered pages ago. I been asked to do a friends daughters Senior year in Portraits, I really don't like doing these things since I know there is alot I don't know about Portraits. I don't have a flash and don't use the one on the camera, I compensate with my settings and get what I want. I giving myself alot of pressure since these pictures will follow this young lady the rest of her life. Should I spend the money on a flash I don't really think I will use after ( and Learn how to use it) or buy some Flash bounce cards for the onboard flash? The main problem will be she is in Marching Band so I have a list of night shots in uniform and performance to shoot. Any help would be nice

John

[pierces]

John,

 

I would suggest just pulling the trigger and picking up a flash. I recently got a Nissin Di700A kit with the dedicated Sony mount and wireless RF remote. I had stalled getting a flash with the new mount since my old Minolta mount flash worked ok on it's somewhat wobbly adapter and like you, I seldom use flash while travelling. My reason to get one was a wedding I was requested to do and having a solid, dedicated flash was a real necessity. Since then, I have found myself playing more with creative lighting and a good flash, a couple of modifiers and off-camera ability can be an excellent creative tool.

 

This Father/Daughter dance was shot with a Gary Fong Collapsible Speed Mount Light Sphere in truly crappy venue lighting.

 

 

Flash was used yesterday for this two-shot panorama group shot to brighten the scene and balance out the encroaching sunlight on the left,

 

 

Granddaughter and niece after sunset with a fill flash using the Nissin's built-in diffuser and reflector card.

 

 

This shot was made with the flash several feet behind me and triggered wirelessly, bouncing off the wall and ceiling.

 

 

On-camera, bounced off a 42" white reflector held by this little doll's mother.

 

 

I spent a long time getting out of the habit of using flash because of ever improving low-light camera sensors and the fuss and bother of another piece of equipment. While I don't expect to start carrying one on cruises again, I am glad I have one now for portraits where setting up my studio strobes is impractical or laziness overcomes me.

 

 

Take some time to browse some basic flash tutorials before your portrait session and you'll be surprised how much can be done with a single good flash (the RF remote on the Nissin will control multiple flashes if you need to at a later date). I doubt you will regret the money spent.

 

Dave

Edited August 21, 2016 by pierces

[wmjivey]

Thanks Dave, I was coming to that conclusion also and now need to find the funds to pop for one. I see acouple on CL that would work just have to free up some cash. I don't want to cheap out with an important shooting as this. Sometimes I wish I would keep my photos to myself and then I won't be voluntold, for special projects.

 

John

[flatlander321]

I can report that the Neewer MK320 Speedlite is still working fine for an external flash on the A6000. It doesn't get used very often, but it has worked well so far with the A6000 in TTL mode.

[wmjivey]

Thanks for the tip I will put in my look at list!

 

John

[shootr]

Not sure if mentioned already, but I just noticed Sony put V3.20 update out on 7-26-16.

 

Camera does seem to power up quicker, still no love for the 18-105. Otherwise, everything else seems as before.

[shootr]

Oh, and I'll jump in on the flash discussion - I picked up a Neewer NW320 (same as the MK model?) a few months back and use it once in a while, but really like it for bouncing fill work at parties.

 

I haven't tried any of the custom settings besides the TTL basic setting so can't comment on that with any authority.

 

Pretty good bang for the buck.

[shootr]

And lastly,

 

What setting am I overlooking, again, that my camera is firing off multiple shots for every press of the shutter button? I've checked the shutter mode and confirmed it's in single mode. Turned all the DRO and HDR settings off and on, changed ISO to single values rather than auto, but with or with out flash, in green and gold auto mode, S, A, P - doesn't seem to matter - the shutter trips multiple times with each press of the trigger.

[shadow8800]

I was hoping for some help or advice. Sometimes when I am taking photos outside they have a hazy look to them I was wondering if this was due to my position in relation to the sun ot a setting on the camera itself. I have not had much practice with my a6000 even though I have had it for a while now.

My hubby and his brothers lined up as they had when they were younger for a picture done the same way but here is what I got. It looks very hazy to me a not clear at all.... any ideas would be appreciated I am trying to learn but it seemed ok until I uploaded it from the camera.

 

[shadow8800]

I saw the group picture you posted and it came out so beautiful! You can see everyone's face again I had trouble with this type of picture.Again in bright sunlight with some shaded areas. I think maybe due to a lack of understanding all the settings and a lack of general knowledge about how to set things up to get a good shot like yours. I only have the 2 kit lenses the came with the camera but I think I can do better than these with some better understanding. Where is the best place to find info on how to use dslr..I used to be pretty decent way back when with my old slr but not very good with this camera.

Here is my group pic and you can see the shadow problem and not being able to distinguish one face from another.

I am always so impressed by everyone's pictures on this thread I thought someone might know where I can learn to do better. Thanks.

 

[Victress2007]

And lastly,

 

What setting am I overlooking, again, that my camera is firing off multiple shots for every press of the shutter button? I've checked the shutter mode and confirmed it's in single mode. Turned all the DRO and HDR settings off and on, changed ISO to single values rather than auto, but with or with out flash, in green and gold auto mode, S, A, P - doesn't seem to matter - the shutter trips multiple times with each press of the trigger.

 

Do you have any exposure compensation settings on?

 

Vic

[Victress2007]

I saw the group picture you posted and it came out so beautiful! You can see everyone's face again I had trouble with this type of picture.Again in bright sunlight with some shaded areas. I think maybe due to a lack of understanding all the settings and a lack of general knowledge about how to set things up to get a good shot like yours. I only have the 2 kit lenses the came with the camera but I think I can do better than these with some better understanding. Where is the best place to find info on how to use dslr..I used to be pretty decent way back when with my old slr but not very good with this camera.

Here is my group pic and you can see the shadow problem and not being able to distinguish one face from another.

I am always so impressed by everyone's pictures on this thread I thought someone might know where I can learn to do better. Thanks.

 

 

I think this is an illustration of the light metering question I was asking in a different thread. You can fix it with post processing by using a fill flash. I think when taking the picture you want to have your light meter set to multi - either that or spot and then pre-set it by focusing on a certain face. Experts - is that right?

 

Thanks,

Vic

Save

[shadow8800]

I think this is an illustration of the light metering question I was asking in a different thread. You can fix it with post processing by using a fill flash. I think when taking the picture you want to have your light meter set to multi - either that or spot and then pre-set it by focusing on a certain face. Experts - is that right?

 

Thanks,

Vic

Save

 

Thank you for the response Vic...this is the kind of thing I want to learn about!

Is it worth it to get some kind of photoshop program then instead of relying on just the program Sony has? Thanks

[Victress2007]

There are several threads about which photo program to use. I use both Corel PaintShop Pro and Adobe Photoshop Elements. You can download a 30 day trial of both of them.

 

There are a lot of other ones out there too, from easy and basic to expensive a really complicated. Search for those other threads for lots of information.

 

Vic

[shootr]

I use the Adobe 10.00/mo subscription service to get Lightroom and Photoshop both. In Lightroom, there is a slider dedicated to "de-haze" a picture - works like a charm in situations like what you're seeing.

 

Pretty sure it also has a free trial. I try to watch youtube "how-to" videos since 95% of these programs are over my head - but just the ease of correcting exposure and removing unwanted elements (power lines, photobombers, etc.) makes it worth it for me.

 

https://creative.adobe.com/products/download/lightroom

[shadow8800]

Thank you for the tips. I will check some more youtube tutorials out, I guess I just haven't found the right one yet. I will look at those other threads too as suggested. As always I appreciate the help :D

[flatlander321]

shadow8800, I saved the picture you posted and ran it through photoshop elements 14 using my standard photo sequence. The steps were 1) Auto Haze Removal, 2) Auto Smart Fix, and 3) Unsharp Mask (@ default of 50%). That is just basic photoshop with the training wheels on. This is the result of those 3 steps:

vs. the original:

Edited September 12, 2016 by flatlander321

[flatlander321]

Oh, and I'll jump in on the flash discussion - I picked up a Neewer NW320 (same as the MK model?) a few months back and use it once in a while, but really like it for bouncing fill work at parties.

 

I haven't tried any of the custom settings besides the TTL basic setting so can't comment on that with any authority.

 

Pretty good bang for the buck.

 

I think the NW320 and MK320 are the same model. I ended up being the photographer at a birthday party two days ago and the flash worked well in the bounce-fill role. I have used it in manual mode with the Rokinon 12mm f2.0 manual lens on the A6000, it works, but TTL mode is so much nicer than test shot-adjust flash-test shot-adjust flash-test shot-adjust flash-etc. I like it when the lens, camera, and flash get together to decide the optimum settings then I just push the button. :D