Localady's Veendam Review

[localady]

Here is my long overdue review/journal of the "Veentastic Veendam" cruise. Hope you enjoy it, my apologies who think it's too long, I tend to write about the ship and our port days, as it goes into my cruise log.

I will break this into sections:

 

Veendam Southern Caribbean Cruise

Saturday, November 26th

Tampa, Florida

Well we have finally made it to the Veendam and have unpacked and participated in the Muster Drill. The weather is lovely and has been nice the entire time we have been in Tampa. We stayed at the Grand Hyatt and had a wonderful experience. The concierge staff was very friendly and the hotel was well maintained. A 20 minute cab drive brought us to the pier, and we were onboard within a matter of 25 minutes. We arrived at the Neptune to meet Rochelle, the Concierge. She is an absolute gem, learning our names within a matter of minutes. While we sat there we also had the pleasure of meeting Linda and Lou, TedC and his wife Cathy, and SeaDawg and his wife, all fellow Cc’ers.

Sunday, November 27th At sea

Yesterday we arrived into a somewhat chaotic terminal, but were directed immediately to the check in for the Suite passengers. A suite is a luxury that we don’t often afford ourselves. After many months of construction at home, both Bob and I were looking forward to the large balcony and benefits of the Neptune Lounge.

This morning we had the first of many enjoyable breakfasts on the palatially sized balcony with room for it’s full table for 4 and 2 chaise lounges. Our steward’s name is Yani, and he seems to be very efficient as well as pleasant. A large reason we return to HAL over and over is because of the hospitality of it’s Officers and crew.

At 11:00am we met with our fellow Cruise Critics. It was lovely to finally be able to put names and faces together. Of course, I had to wear my bag. Unfortunately we didn’t get to meet everybody, but by the end of the cruise we’d met many of the 100 Ccer’s that were aboard.

This ships crew is very friendly! Rochelle and Navier are just lovely and I enjoy venturing into the Neptune each morning for a warm welcome and delicious coffee. Rochelle truly exemplifies the wonderful staff of the Veendam. She works very long hours and is up and smiling by 7:00am despite that. There is always a kind word for everyone and within a day of embarking the ship, she knew and greeted us all by name.

[localady]

Thursday, December 1st, Basse Terre, Guadeloupe

Today we had a very lovely day on Basse Terre, which was totally unexpected after the reviews we’d gotten from the passengers on the prior voyage. We had heard that this was a place that only French was spoken and was not a friendly island. What we found was just the opposite. We found that this is an Island full of smiling faces and friendly people.

We started our tour of South Basse Terre with a hair raising drive and park job at a place where lace (voile) was handmade. Very narrow roads and non-existent parking for a bus, illustrated our bus drivers true skills. When we arrived at a seaside Fort where lace is now handmade, there was a lovely demonstration of Guadeloupe’s traditional dances. The interesting thing is that the dances were very European, one was even called the "Polka", another was a waltz. The dancers were older, and as it turned out, even some of the dancers families came out to watch.

As I was walking up to the bus, I was approached by an older lady who called to me in French and held out a bag with some fruit in it. She didn’t speak English at all and I speak no French, but her Granddaughter spoke just enough English to let me know that she didn’t wish for me to buy the fruit, that it was a gift. Inside the bag was a lovely bunch of what they call "socre" (or something similar) which are well loved by the locals. When one of our guides, a lovely woman named Jocelyn, saw them, she asked if she could eat one. When I said of course, she popped the small ripe purple fruit into her mouth, just as I would have a very ripe cherry. As she savored it, her expression was that of childhood bliss. As we drove further, I saw another man in his front yard, pulling the small, sweet fruit off the tree and popping them into his mouth.

As I showed the guide the other fruit, something like a pomegrante, which they called a "Graneat", she told me that it was a rare and quite prized fruit here in Guadeloupe. What a lovely present to receive from a total stranger! After our trip, Jocelyn took us to the "market" where I was able to get the other ingredients that are to go into the punch. They include cinnamon, the "socre" berries, nutmeg, and vanilla bean. I forgot to get the sugar cane water, and will try the recipe with a just bit of sugar instead. I have no idea the amounts to use, but have bought a bottle of rum and am going to try to make some of the punch for tasting later in the cruise.

Contrary to what we were told, we found the people of Guadeloupe to be very friendly. As our bus passed by, many waved and smiled. As we passed people on the way to the market, many smiled and said "Bonjour". I tried to pull up some french and said "merci" many times during the day.

Basse Terre really wants to bring the cruise tourism on to the island. The Veendam is one of the first ships to dock here, and after a reportedly lukewarm reception on the last voyage, the town pulled out all the stops, greeting us with wonderfully colorful dancers on the pier, including some of the most beautiful little girls, big smiles shining as they proudly danced in their brightly coloured red yellow and green print traditional dresses.

Later in the day, as we walked down the main shopping street of Basse Terre, Jocelyn explained to me that they had actually closed the entire street to cars just because we had docked here at the pier today.

After the market, Jocelyn guided us to a very busy local eatery that advertised itself as a "Rotisserie". Even as we walked down the street we could smell the irresistible odor and didn’t hesitate to order as she recommended. It was takeout eattery and they boxed our generous meals up, with some special local drinks, and we took it to a nearby esplanade to sit on a bench and dig in.

Directly across from us sat a older man who appeared to be to be homeless, thin and obviously hungry, although he asked for a nothing as we pulled out the lunch takeout, that looked like a feast for a king. The look in his eyes when we opened the steaming assortment of wonderful smelling meats (lamb, Chicken and beef sausage) in a bed of light and fluffy couscous stewing in a mouth-watering sauce told me just how hungry. Obviously, Bob and I had plenty with one serving, so we offered the other meal over to the shirt and shoeless man. As he dug into the meal, he looked as us gratefully muttering god bless, as he quickly dug into the meal, finishing almost all in the tasty box.

The food was very good, as was the local fruit juice drink that I had to go with my meal. As we all ate heartily on the park bench, a very smartly dressed blonde woman walked up and greeted Jocelyn. After they spoke the woman asked if we were enjoying our stay, which we indicated we were, in between spoonfuls of the tasty meal. After walked away Jocelyn indicated that the woman worked in the government here (Basse-Terre is the provincial capital for Guadeloupe) in the Commerce department.

As we said goodbye to Jocelyn, we thanked her for showing us a piece of her wonderful Island and especially for her warm and caring hospitality. These are truly the kind of days that make travel worthwhile, today I feel as though we really connected, if only for a day, with the island Guadeloupe.

[localady]

December 4th, El Guamache, Venezuela

This morning we awoke to a very dark sky. Rising from bed was a real chore as we had been accustom to rising to bright and sunny skies so far on this voyage. The skies were dark with angry black storm clouds as we came ashore on this normally arid island located only 24 miles off the Venezuelan coast. As we entered our very well air conditioned bus, we were dripping from the downpour we encountered getting there. As I sat there dripping, a chill began to permeate me, a cold that I’d not felt since we’d left Sacramento. Still I hoped that the day would clear, as I was told it rarely rained here. As we traversed the island to our first stop, a botanical garden, my fears grew the bus careened through road after road deeply flooded by the muddy runoff that filled them with milk brown muck.

Today was an important day in Venezuela our guide reported, today was an election for representatives to the government. He joking questioned if this odd weather was tied to the election. As it turns out, this island only experiences no more than a few inches of rain each year, as the cacti and divi divi trees demonstrated. The rain just kept coming down and after a very wet shopping stop we arrived at the botanical garden which touted a ficus labyrinth as well as some reptiles (ie humongous snakes). Those of us with less intelligence hopped off the bus to find ourselves jumping across a sea of deep and very muddy puddles. Although I as a horticulturalist should have been enthusiastic about the stop, I prayed that we could go back to the cold, albeit almost dry bus. (It seemed that every time the driver would take a hard right turn the angle would be just right for a steady stream of water to deposit itself onto my already wet jeans leg.)

As we walked back to the bus a woman standing next to me wondered aloud whether the poor tortoise attempting to climb the fence around it’s pen would actually drown in the silt laden water that rose around it. A man, who we later learned was the owner of the garden, assured us that the turtle was fine and could survive in the rising waters. He also told us that he had lived here on the island for 7 years and he’d never seen anything like this rain during the time. Usually the rain would come for no longer than an our at a time, but never like that.

Back into the then frigid bus we went. It was explained to us that if the driver turned off the a/c the buses windows would fog, better clear and cold the dry bus driver decided. As we drove back across the island we drove through even more flooded streets, this time seeing a car or two that had been flooded in the rushing rivers that used to be streets. It appeared though that the clouds were lighter on the other side of the island, so as I snuggled with Bob to get any warmth I could, my spirits lifted, maybe the Mangrove Reserve would be rain free and warmer.

We were directed to the end of a small pier with many small outboard boats, with varying degrees of cover. As it happened, we were directed into the front of a boat, with our friends, Bob and Joyce seated right behind us. As we ventured out into the mangroves, the skipper of the ship kicked up the throttle. Although there was cover for about ½ of our bodies, the rain began to fall hard again, driving it into Bob and I as the craft sped along the large waterways. As we entered the smaller mangrove passages we actually had great fun as they were named things like "tunnel of love" and ‘mi amor por tu’. The mangroves were full of life, with many, many bright orange starfish attached tot he mangrove roots that not only survive in the brackish water, but actually filter the water so the mangrove trees can thrive.

Later, as we made our way back to the dock, our guide, picked up a sea horse from a mangle of roots at the base of a mangrove tree. Seahorses it seems don’t stray to far in the mangrove, and I am sure he shows all of his visitors the seahorse after carefully depositing it back into it’s black mangrove root home. After sharing an empanada filled with a mild shark meat, which was made by hand and then deep fried on a contraption made of metal by an older women who had her stand at the foot of the reserves dock. In a country where we had earlier been told that the average wage was approximately $300 US dollars a month, this old woman had quite the business savvy, as exhibited by the number of passengers who returned to the bus clutching their freshly fried empanadas.

We returned to the ship to dry off, literally pulling off our wet garments, which were hung out to dry even before sending them to the laundry. From our lovely balcony of the ship, we could see that the weather was beginning to clear as they prepared the ship to leave and we saw that there was a very lovely white sand beach just a stones throw from the pier. Although we had a rough day in El Guamache, I am sure others that visited on any other day in the last 7 years had enjoyed themselves on this normally sunny, arid island.

Post script: That night on CNN we learned that the elections had occurred but not with quite the harmony portrayed by our tour guide. It was reported that candidates for the election had pulled out of the race in the days prior to the election amid charges of voter corruption and fraud. CNN’s analysts suggested that as a result of this election, that the current President of Venezuela, Chavez, would hold the majority and that it was widely anticipated that this stronghold would result in the overturning of the 2 limit presidency rule that now exists in Venezuela. Viva la liberdad !

[localady]

Kralendijk, Bonaire December 5th

This morning we arose to another beautiful sunny day as we docked at the "B" island in the ABC islands. Bob awoke with the start of a lousy head cold, no doubt exacerbated by the events of the day before on Isla de Margarita. Despite this, he was in good spirits and planned to go see the island of Bonaire as I joined a small group of friends on a tour by a Marine Biologist named Caren, who runs the program Sea and Discover here on the island for teens and dreams of the day that Kralendijk has an interactive museum highlighting it’s exceptional marine environment.

Bonaire is world renown for it’s coral reef that encircles the island. The island is smaller that it’s other Dutch Antille sisters and the people seem to better understand the importance of protecting their underwater treasures. The island is not as yet over run by the highrises and mega hotels of Aruba, and hopefully never will. The island itself is very clean and well maintained by Caribbean standards, with very little trash evident, working stop lights, and well maintained streets. It’s small population of 15,000 people seem to lead a relatively crime free and peaceful existence.

Our tour guide, Caren arrived at the dock, on Island time, just a few minutes past 10am driving a very old and well rusted VW van. In our group climbed, meeting our bubbly marine biologist who was born in Texas and lived here on Bonaire in her small but lovely house surrounded by the traditional island fence, one made of cacti. Pieces of cacti are broken off from other plants and planted in an interwoven pattern that grows into a beautiful and inexpensive but effective even deadly fence. Caren told us that she was married to a Dutch man and had sailed initially to the Island where they made their home.

Caren proved to be an excellent guide, not only knowledgeable about what we were seeing below the water, but very gentle with a couple in our group who were new and nervous snorkelers. Despite their fears, Caren worked with them until they were comfortable to venture out into the deeper waters around the island.

What an amazing assortment of fish and coral we saw! The amount and sizes of different types of coral were amazing. Some I’d seen before, such as the majestic yet intricate brain coral, the huge deep purple colored fan corals that swayed in the current, to the fiery red and quite dangerous fire coral. As we swam with Caren she named some of the fish we were observing like the brilliantly blue schools of Tang fish that swam through the area, and the pencil thing bodies of the Needlefish that swam right below the top of the sea, as if offering themselves up to the hovering frigates above. The spotlight parrot fish, with it’s huge color differences between the male and female species was no less spectacular. The males sport orange spotted underbellies with am army green spotted upper body and their beautiful large female mates with their turquoise irridescient bodies that mixed the colors of a psychedelic rainbow in Monet like fashion. Sadly, our time with Caren ended far too soon, and after saying our goodbyes, my friend Ted and I decided we’d sign on to the afternoon snorkel offered by the Ship as well, having only one day in this underwater paradise. That afternoon, during our subsequent dives on the Sea Cow (A Moooooving Experience it claimed!) That night I sat with a quite red and tolerably tender backside, I scanned my tropical fish guide for pictures of the fish I watched and tried to memorize during my limited time underwater. I longed to memorize the exact colors so I could identify them later. Sadly, I could recognize some, but the book revealed so many varieties and patterns that it was many times impossible to identify the correct species. Someday soon, I’d like to bring the boys down to visit the Marine Park here in Bonaire for more than a day. Maybe then I could take the time to truly memorize and identify the fish that a Lord with a wonderful sense of style and humor must have created.

December 6th Aruba St. Nicholas day

Here we are in Aruba again on the same day as we visited last year. This year I decided to take an extended snorkel as my days were limited on islands with this many reefs. Despite my concern about signing up for the Jolly Pirates, I had a wonderful day aboard, enjoying the snorkeling by the Lighthouse immensely. Again I saw many spotlight parrotfish, with the males looking so vastly different than it’s bright turquouse mate. Usually in nature, it’s the other way around, the female with the drab colors, the males with the splendid colors. Here is Aruba, we also discovered an underwater paradise. Unlike DePalm Island, which has much reef damage, these reefs were pristine (especially in comparison with what we saw in Grand Cayman.)

We also dove at the wreck of the Antille (?), a German ship that was captured at the beginning of WW2, then regained by it’s crew who set out to sink it, blowing it into 2 pieces on a sandbar rather than risking the chance of the Dutch using it again them. It lays there almost fully intact to date. It is sunk in over 60 feet of water, and my breath was taken away momentarily by the size of the shipwreck. Even with all the years it has been on the bottom, the ship is well preserved. You can see where the engine room was located, and how the Germans managed to blow the ship into 2 pieces. Although the fish and coral have now taken the ship for their own, it is eerie to see the portholes on the side of the ship as it lays motionless, preserved in it’s deep water grave for many years to come. Aruba had gotten rain too, but it seems to have passed by the time we got to the island, and the day was lovely for snorkeling.

 

 

[localady]

Post-Script:

Unfortunately, Bob got a cold/flu the second week, so we were more confined to our Suite for a few days. Everyone was so helpful, and we were blessed to have such comfortable accommodations to weather his illness. It didn’t appear to be anything like Norvo, but we decided that it was only fair to others if we stayed away.

Our steward, Yanni, was so wonderful. For that matter, the entire staff was, even the front desk. After dining with Guest Relations Manager Grace Zerna, I knew why. Grace had a wonderful philosophy about the services she and her staff supplied. Jason Venner, the handsome young Cruise Director, was full of energy and always made a point to stop and ask how I was and if he could do anything for us.

The icing on the cake was having the opportunity to meet all of the Ccer’s that we did. I hope to meet all of them again some day on some "DAM’ ship.:D

[boards]

Thank you for the wonderful review. You can relive the time spent in the places you have described so beautifully. You have helped us visit the places we did not get to. Thank you again for all your did for us.

[cruiseapril]

What a great review!

We were in Isla Margarita in April and had memorable experiences at the Lagoon and at the Botanical Gardens. We did have fine weather-it was quite hot. We had a wonderful driver at the Lagoon and our guide for the trip -Artruro-was very informative. We have quite a few photos of the animals at the little zoo near the Botanical Gardens. Photos of the macaws and the toucans are fun to look at-to recall a most unusual "zoo" experience.

[localady]

Boards- It was absolutely wonderful to meet you! :D Everytime we bumped into each other on the cruise, you were always the smiling face in the crowd.:) It was a true pleasure to get to meet you!!

Cruiseapril- I have no doubt that what you say about Isla de Margarita is accurate! I am sure that every other day, than the day we were there was sunny! That is the luck of the draw with travel...and we had a most memorable day none the less. The folks we did meet there were all very pleasant and equally as mystified by the strange and dramatic storm!:cool:

[calm_seas]

Localady Thank you so much for your review. You captured the true flavor of the places you visited.....not many are able to do that. We enjoyed meeting you on the cruise Thanks for the many hours of hard work you must have put into assembling the "onboard" listing and other materials for us to enjoy!

 

We wish you many more "dam" cruises, hopefully sailing with you on another one.

[Krazy Kruizers]

What a great review. Enjoyed reading about Isla de Margarita - haven't been back there in a while. We were blessed with beautiful weather every time we were there.

 

Have also been to Bonaire several times and one time it rained cats and dogs.

[the2ofus]

Having read your very thorough review of Guadaloupe, I am tempted to return there again. Our experience in 2000 was less positive, but one glimpse is never truly enough to form an opinion.

 

Thanks for all your insights. Your attitude about travel experiences is one we all should share.

[localady]

Calm Seas-

It was a pleasure to meet you and Jean also! :D I so enjoyed the lovely chats we had throughout the cruise. Have you considered the Fall Transatlantic on the Noordam?? 16 days and Big band too!! Really looking forward to hearing your observations/experiences on the Noordam Inaugural cruise.:)

the2ofus-

I have to tell you that our experience was unique and that many people didn't have the same experience.:o I have always been one to find interest in cultural differences, and the Guadeloupeans (sp?)have a wonderful, rich culture. It is true that some don't like Americans, but for each one of those folks I experienced, I met (2 fold) wonderful people wanting to share their culture with us.

 

KK- Travel is like that:o ....and is the unfortunate side effect of having one day at a port...so we have learned to take it as it comes, and make the best of each day despite it's weather challenges!

[ryansmemom]

Hello again Localady,

 

Thanks so much for bringing back those wonderful memories of our wonderful time together. The best part of this cruise was all of the fantastic CCer's that were onboard. Everyone I show our group picture to wants to know about to woman with the bag on her head!:D :eek: What a hoot!

 

I am finally recovering from all of those ports!:confused: I'm an "at sea" girl. Anyway, it was great spending time with everyone and we had the honor of being "slippered" by Jim and Ruth so this cruise was really special for us.

 

Thanks again for taking the time to post your fantastic review.:D

 

Linda

[cruisinjudy]

Great review, Localady! It was great fun to meet you on the Veendam and I have enjoyed reliving the cruise here.

 

Judy

[RuthC]

This was a delightful review! Well-written, thorough, what can I say besides how much I enjoyed it. Almost makes me want to go back to the Caribbean. Almost.

[stanford's girl]

Being a snorkel lover myself, I really enjoyed reading your review. Thank you so much for sharing it with us. :)

[Copper10-8]

Awesome review LocaLady!:) Bonaire is still the little secret in the ABC islands;)