Villa Oplontis and Stabaie or Baiae?

[bennybear]

We have spent some time in the Naples and Sorrento area before and are looking at something different.    It appears Villa Oplontis would be easy to visit from Naples.  wondering about the Stabaie villas near Castellmare.   They sound difficult to find.   Wondering if we should try or go somewhere different like Baiae or back to Pompeii as it has been years since our last visit.  Thanks! 

[cruisemom42]

Oh you are barking up my tree now! 

 

Villa Oplontis is absolutely, hands down, a gem of a site. You cannot believe the opulence and quality of the frescoes. The fact that it was likely owned by Nero or Poppaea (his wife) only adds to the allure.

 

If you are thinking of combining it with Stabiae, it would make for an interesting day of envisioning what life was like for the rich and famous along the Bay of Naples before the eruption of Vesuvius. I went to Stabiae with a friend and we took the old chugging Circumvesuviana. From the station it was a bit of a hike and definitely UP hill to reach the site, where access (at least as of 5-6 years ago) was surprisingly haphazard and low key. I don't seem to recall that we had any difficulty finding it, we were just worried that no one would be there to let us in, however, it all worked out.

 

If you want more detail on directions, I still have the document I created on a drive somewhere.

 

On the other hand...

 

If you go to Baiae, which is also an interesting (if slightly puzzling) site, you could visit the nearby Baia Castle which houses the archaeological museum. You could also opt for a visit to the fantastic amphitheatre in Pozzuoli, where the underground area is MUCH better preserved than the Colosseum in Rome. Fantastic place. Or you could visit Cumae, where there are interesting ruins and also one of three candidates for the "Cave of the Sibyl" (I've visited all three....).

 

As euro cruiser can attest, there is also a great restaurant near the Baiae site that's open for lunch; can't think of the name at the moment but I can look it up.

 

Finally, I'll just add that if you decide to opt for a simpler day and just revisit Pompeii -- there have been a number of reopened houses in the last 2-3 years, following all the scandals about the site. I think they are trying to show that they are maintaining things responsibly. The Villa of the Mysteries had all of its frescoes restored and they are magnificent. Check the official website to see if they list some of the other newly opened houses, if not I can supply them. To cut down on wear and tear, some are only open in the morning and others only in the afternoon, so it pays to do a little advance planning...

[euro cruiser]

The restaurant is Il Paolanto:  http://ristoranteilpaolanto.it/

 

We had a great lunch there.

[bennybear]

Many thanks!   Was hoping you both might respond.   Leaning towards Villa Oplontis and revisiting Pompeii.  We ran out of time when we stayed near Sorrento last time,  just did Herculaneum and Amalfi.  I will check about the newly opened houses.  The villas at Stabiae look a little harder logistically.  Then I might have time for pizza and a pastry in Napoli.  

 

 Maybe leave Baiae  and area for another time.  Love great Italian restaurants.     Naples is just so rich in things to see and do.   

[euro cruiser]

Oplontis is certainly easier to get to than either Stabiae or Baiae.  Neither of them are particularly difficult but especially Stabiae can be confusing to find, even though it's less than a mile from two Circumvesuviana stations.  Would a little signage kill them?

 

There is great food all over, I wouldn't go out of my way for any one particular restaurant.  The food at Il Paolanto was great on its own but the experience was enhanced by the owner/waiter who helped us (we were the only customers in the place for the first half hour or so, it was February after all, and a little rainy as I recall).   A wonderful memory.

Edited August 23, 2019 by euro cruiser

[bennybear]

Thanks for all the help!   Would you suggest using Circumvesuviana train to start off in Pompeii and then do Oplontis on the return?   Or would the bus be quicker to get there?  Not sure but I think I read something about a bus that goes from near the port to Pompeii?   I saw the sightseeing bus but it has set times so won’t work for us to return.   And then train back.  Thanks again.

[cruisemom42]

It would make sense to me to start with Pompei, as it gets progressively more crowded through the day (and hot, if you are going during prime season). Oplontis sees far, far fewer visitors and also there is a fair amount of shade because the main part of the villa is covered. 

 

As I mentioned above, some new houses/buildings have been opened in the last few years and are well worth making an effort to see, including:

 

Villa of the Mysteries -- contains some of the MOST important frescoes from the site

House of the Vettii -- house in the center of town belonging to very wealthy family; it was closed for years for restoration and is now open again

House of Venus in the Shell -- beautiful courtyard/garden area with great frescoes including the famous title one of Venus.

The House/Praedia of Julia Felix -- a favorite of mine; not always open

The House of the Large Fountain -- wonderful mosaic fountain

House of Paquius Proculus -- outstanding huge (recently restored) mosaic in entry

Temple of Isis -- beautiful, also recently restored; walk all around the exterior for full effect

 

Not all will be open in the morning and not all every day; it pays to check when you buy your tickets.

 

A good source of information on Oplontis:  https://sites.google.com/site/ad79eruption/oplontis/villa-of-poppaea .   (This site also has good info for Pompeii but most people are not willing to get as nitty gritty with details...)

 

 

[bennybear]

Again thank you for taking the time to answer in such a detailed manner.  It is appreciated!  I hope our paths will cross one day and I can buy you a drink!  You too Eurocruiser! 

[cruisemom42]

Take a look at this thread just posted by dogs4fun -- new article in Smithsonian on some of the new finds in Pompeii (not on view just yet) but also talks about the recent improvements made at the site. A great read to whet your appetite: