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Selbourne ‘Live’ from Aurora’s 2024 Grand Tour


Selbourne
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6 hours ago, Fionboard said:

This was a long time ago. 2011 on Celebrity Constellation, I think. Maybe my memory is a bit hazy! Done so many cruises since then!  

They were still debating the issue in 2020, some locals wanted to have a referendum. Their concern was that more cruise passengers would lead to a higher cost of living, so presumably those not directly benefiting from tourism did nor support new cruise berths, and I guess the wealthy ones didn't  fancy more tourists.

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Just now, Mollag said:

Tortolas looking doubtful Selbourne I wonder what they’ll blame that on for the insurance letters


Do you think so? I’m surprised that a few hours late leaving here would result in a few hours late arriving in Tortola, given how much slack there has been in our timings the whole cruise. Would have thought they could make that up without any issue whatsoever. There was due to be 39 hours between the two ports and we can’t make up just 2 hours? 2 hours at even 15 knots (which is faster than we’ve been going many days) would mean that just going 1 knot more than they planned would easily get that time back. Something doesn’t sound right, unless their fuel budget is as tight as their tug budget 🤔
 

For those of you wondering what on earth Mollag and I are talking about, we had a relatively short day in Jamaica and all had to be on board by 4.30pm. At 5pm the Captain announced that we are still taking on supplies (that arrived late) and, as a result will be late leaving. People can now go ashore again with a revised all on board of 7pm. Suspect that very few will bother. Apparently, this minor delay is going to result in us getting in to Tortola a few hours late which, given the slack timings on this cruise seems very odd. 

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1 minute ago, Selbourne said:


Do you think so? I’m surprised that a few hours late leaving here would result in a few hours late arriving in Tortola, given how much slack there has been in our timings the whole cruise. Would have thought they could make that up without any issue whatsoever. There was due to be 39 hours between the two ports and we can’t make up just 2 hours? 2 hours at even 15 knots (which is faster than we’ve been going many days) would mean that just going 1 knot more than they planned would easily get that time back. Something doesn’t sound right, unless their fuel budget is as tight as their tug budget 🤔
 

For those of you wondering what on earth Mollag and I are talking about, we had a relatively short day in Jamaica and all had to be on board by 4.30pm. At 5pm the Captain announced that we are still taking on supplies (that arrived late) and, as a result will be late leaving. People can now go ashore again with a revised all on board of 7pm. Suspect that very few will bother. Apparently, this minor delay is going to result in us getting in to Tortola a few hours late which, given the slack timings on this cruise seems very odd. 

The Captain's bonus is probably dependent on him achieving a certain mpg, and he has already had the pedal to the metal for a medical emergency, and 2 extra sea days to eat into his fuel load. 😎😇

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Just now, terrierjohn said:

The Captain's bonus is probably dependent on him achieving a certain mpg, and he has already had the pedal to the metal for a medical emergency, and 2 extra sea days to eat into his fuel load. 😎😇


Many a true word spoken in jest John, although on the aborted Key West day we just spent the day with the engines off in flat calm waters…..not far from Key West 🤔

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11 minutes ago, Selbourne said:


Do you think so? I’m surprised that a few hours late leaving here would result in a few hours late arriving in Tortola, given how much slack there has been in our timings the whole cruise. Would have thought they could make that up without any issue whatsoever. There was due to be 39 hours between the two ports and we can’t make up just 2 hours? 2 hours at even 15 knots (which is faster than we’ve been going many days) would mean that just going 1 knot more than they planned would easily get that time back. Something doesn’t sound right, unless their fuel budget is as tight as their tug budget 🤔
 

For those of you wondering what on earth Mollag and I are talking about, we had a relatively short day in Jamaica and all had to be on board by 4.30pm. At 5pm the Captain announced that we are still taking on supplies (that arrived late) and, as a result will be late leaving. People can now go ashore again with a revised all on board of 7pm. Suspect that very few will bother. Apparently, this minor delay is going to result in us getting in to Tortola a few hours late which, given the slack timings on this cruise seems very odd. 

It’s 720 miles in a straight line so probably a few more to add to that avoiding the islands in the way so 36 hours at 20+kts if we leave in the next hour or two. 
We were chatting to a few of the crew this afternoon and one said we wouldn’t have been using the other berth anyway as it’s owned by one of the other companies and would have cost more plus I don’t think we could’ve taken the stores on there. 
One thing for sure I bet we won’t be late into Antigua when our vociferous captain is getting of. 

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Day 52 - Friday 23rd February - Ocho Rios, Jamaica

 

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A very odd day in Jamaica. As a Carnival ship managed to damage the cruise pier a few weeks ago, and has apparently put it out of action for a year, we berthed at Reynold’s Pier, which the locals call the James Bond pier. It’s an industrial berth that was used in two James Bond films as the baddies lair. The local economy is going to take a big hit, as this pier can only take smaller ships (and maybe only one at a time?) so all the biggies are being rescheduled to either Falmouth or Montego Bay. The locals aren’t at all happy. 

 

I was booked on a ‘Panorama of Ocho Rio’s’ tour and it was on one of those awful Toyota minibuses that seem to be as prevalent around the Caribbean as the wild chickens are on Grand Cayman. I got in the front seat which, due to there being no door, involves a degree of contortion and dexterity to get in and out of that thankfully I can still just about manage (at a push). 

 

As we left Ocho Rio’s we climbed up through Fern Gully, which is a steep sided gully that was originally a river that got diverted as a result of an earthquake. Even though I was in the front seat it was difficult to see out as the minibus had a tinted band that covered almost the top half of the windscreen and it wasn’t well applied so distorted the view. Anyway, as we were climbing the gully, I noticed the greenery start to move at the side of the road and all of a sudden a person on stilts, absolutely covered in greenery (from their head to the bottom of the stilts), just ‘walked’ out into our path. As if this was perfectly natural, our driver just slowed down and then drove around him. A little further up the gully there was another leaf covered manned stall and our guide said that he was ‘Jack in the box’ and the chap on stilts was ‘Jack and the beanstalk’. They are apparently ‘tourist attractions’ (code for beggars). 

 

We weaved our way through some quite poor looking areas and then got to an affluent area where various music stars own properties and then stopped at a viewpoint (Shaw Park Ridge) that overlooks Ocho Rio’s. On our way back down the hill another chap dressed all in black walked out in front of the minibus and brought us to a halt. He then proceeded to do about a dozen backward flips down the middle of the road. I should at this stage say that Marijuana in ‘small doses for personal use’ is legal in Jamaica and I was beginning to wonder if I had inadvertently taken some. Anyway, it was another beggar who managed to get a few dollars from the more benevolent passengers on the minibus. 

 

We then stopped at an extremely average church (St Johns Anglican Church) with a very shabby graveyard. I have no idea why so many shore excursions on various islands do this. The average village church in the U.K. is more impressive than 90% of these. After that we stopped at the Taj Mahal shopping centre (yes, you read that correctly). Lots of shops all selling similar things - tourist tat, t-shirts, booze, cigars, jewellery etc. The prices all look astronomical to me, probably as Sterling is weak against the US dollar. Maybe the prices are more appealing to our US cousins. 

 

Next we headed out of town for a slightly pointless drive through the heavily congested village of St Ann’s (it’s Jamaica Day today so everywhere was busy), which included driving in and out of the hospital car park (I’m not making this up for effect BTW). The final stop was an outdoor eating area where they cook vast quantities of Jerk Chicken and pork. Again, I’ve no idea why. It smelt nice but wouldn’t get a food hygiene rating at home!

 

Back to the ship just 20 minutes late which seems to be better than most excursions. BTW, If booking tours don’t plan on doing two in a day. Chances are your first tour will be late back. They don’t even seem to be aware of the scheduled return times! 

 

As the tour was late back we had missed lunch in the MDR so went for a burger at the Lido Grill. The service up there is poor but the burgers are OK and are a quick way to fill a gap. 

 

We were scheduled to have a relatively short day in Jamaica with an ‘all on board’ time of 4.30pm. Then we had the added challenge that wheelchair users could not get on and off the ship between midday and 2pm due to the tides (when only stepped access from deck 5 would be available). However, by the time we had grabbed some lunch the level step free access from deck 4 had been reinstated, so we headed ashore. 

 

Thankfully, although we were further out of town than the usual cruise pier, the walk into town was very good and wheelchair friendly. It was a tiny bit more tricky in places once we got into the centre, but still better than most of the places we have visited. On the way back to the ship we had a look around Island Village, a nicely landscaped shopping and leisure area. 

 

Having returned to the ship in good time for the early departure, at 5pm the Captain announced that we would be delayed in our departure due to a delivery of provisions having arrived late. As a result, people could go ashore for another 2 hours if they wished. I doubt that many did. He also said that this would mean that we would be a few hours late arriving into Tortola in 2 days time as a result. We ended up leaving at around 8pm. 

 

Clearly there is a tight budget on fuel costs, as the journey is apparently about 720 miles and we have 36 hours to do it if we are to arrive on time. That would mean travelling at 20 knots, which is well below Auroras designed operating speed of 25 knots. I wondered if the Captain would do the same as he did with Bermuda, when he patted himself on the back for getting us there just marginally late when we had made a big diversion to avoid the worst of a storm system. However, he said that there would be a communication about the impact of our delayed arrival on shore excursions, so maybe not. 

 

At 7pm we went to Carmen’s for a Headliners performance called ‘Up all night’.  As those who cruise a lot will know, there can be big variations in the quality of the Headliners troupes. We’ve seen a few excellent ones and some quite poor ones. In all honesty, the troupe that we have is very good and it’s frankly amazing that the vast majority of them are on their very first contact with P&O. In the spirit of complete honesty, the male singers are let down a bit by one of their number being quite weak, but the female singers and the dancers are all excellent. 

 

Dinner was mediocre. We both had jerk chicken. I wasn’t terribly keen but it was a welcome change from the usual fodder. My wife enjoyed hers. My dessert was dreadful. I struggle to think of more than a handful of MDR desserts that I have really enjoyed. 

 

The 10pm show was vocal group ‘Legacy’ but we were both quite tired so didn’t go. Tomorrow is a sea day as we progress towards Tortola. 

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Edited by Selbourne
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1 hour ago, Selbourne said:

The local economy is going to take a big hit, as this pier can only take smaller ships (and maybe only one at a time?) so all the biggies are being rescheduled to either Falmouth or Montego Bay. The locals aren’t at all happy.

I can well imagine they aren't, Jamaica being only second to Haiti as the poorest country in the entire Caribbean. Back in the mid 80's we spent a week in Ochos Rios after the US started the trade embargo against them when the Jamaica government did a deal to sell sugar and bananas to Russia.  There were green mouldy loaves on the shelves of the local shop with people queuing to buy them. A very sad sight based on some misguided political choices.  The people back then were stoic and incredibly friendly and welcoming, unfortunately not I hear so much now.

 

Hopefully Tortola will be made in time.  You are certainly having some great adventures!

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9 hours ago, terrierjohn said:

The Captain's bonus is probably dependent on him achieving a certain mpg, and he has already had the pedal to the metal for a medical emergency, and 2 extra sea days to eat into his fuel load. 😎😇

AIS her at 22.7 kn eta Tortola 0645 LT

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On 2/22/2024 at 3:04 AM, Selbourne said:

Day 50 - Wednesday 21st February - Sea Day

 

Well here we are. Day 50. That’s more than double the length of time that we have ever been on a cruise before and we still haven’t murdered each other 😂

 

I had a much better nights sleep without the pressure of an early start and even managed to get a couple of loads of washing in the laundrette before we went to breakfast. Breakfast was a little hurried as I wanted to get both loads out of the washing machine and into the tumble driers in time to attend the first talk of our new guest lecturer, Paul Stickler at 10am. I got my wife in situ in the theatre and then whizzed back to the laundrette, sorted it all out and made it back to the theatre just a minute or two after he’d started. 

 

Well I am delighted. I really like true crime and that’s the subject of all his talks. My wife said that he had mentioned that he was on board until the end of the cruise and would give a talk each sea day, so that’s a big relief for me to have something to look forward to on the long drag home. Today’s talk was titled ‘The Porthole Murder’ about a murder on a cruise ship in 1947 that he has investigated. It was very refreshing to  hear about a case that I’d never read about and his presentation style was very good.

 

I did some more washing and some emails before we headed to lunch at 1pm in the Glasshouse. Having had at least half a dozen meals in there this cruise, I can say with some confidence that it is the best place to eat on Aurora. Every meal there has been superb and the service is always exemplary.  

 

We were planning on attending the 3pm ‘Audience with the Headliners’ in the theatre, but lunch had dragged on a bit (the second large glass of Jam Shed Shiraz was to blame) so we returned to our cabin for a rest and a read and ended up remaining there until dinner. The 10pm show was the act Duo Esencias with their performance called ‘The Dream’. We saw this on Britannia and didn’t feel the need to see it a second time. Tomorrow Georgetown, Grand Cayman, which is a tender port. 


We saw Paul Stickler on Britannia in 2017 and he’s brilliant! What I want from a guest speaker. He also did the Port Hole murder. There was a second talk on the next sea day then we had a missed port (Guernsey!) and he did another talk on the extra sea day. I got the impression he would have done one every day if he could!

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6 hours ago, Megabear2 said:

I can well imagine they aren't, Jamaica being only second to Haiti as the poorest country in the entire Caribbean. Back in the mid 80's we spent a week in Ochos Rios after the US started the trade embargo against them when the Jamaica government did a deal to sell sugar and bananas to Russia.  There were green mouldy loaves on the shelves of the local shop with people queuing to buy them. A very sad sight based on some misguided political choices.  The people back then were stoic and incredibly friendly and welcoming, unfortunately not I hear so much now.

 

Hopefully Tortola will be made in time.  You are certainly having some great adventures!

We stayed in Montego Bay about 10 years ago. Very friendly and helpful people.

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2 minutes ago, brian1 said:

Did you see any nudey blokes  running around?

No, I was in bed by midnight. DW stayed up a bit later some nights, I'll ask her.....second thoughts.🤔

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12 minutes ago, Bill Y said:

Pleased to hear @Selbourne that you managed to push your wife into town. You appear to have a better opinion of Ocho Rios than we did. We docked at the normal pier but it seemed a long trek off the ship as we were pestered every inch of the way by taxi drivers and tour operator. We were warned on our previous cruise by an elderly Jamaican of the Windrush era  who told us of a visit back to Jamaica where his brother had to tell people he’s one of us so don’t rip him off. We tried to find the public beach, we were constantly approached by men wanting to show us something or to escort us somewhere. A chap repairing his car took pity on us and told us how to get to the beach, even although we were only a few hundred yards away we still got accosted another couple of times. In the afternoon I went back out for a walk, and walked past where you docked and towards the Dunn River, between leaving the town and the dock there were policemen at regular intervals interspersed with drug dealers. Once past this area of police protection one was fair game for people wanting to hang things around your neck and general hustlers. Back in town I visited Turtle River park to see the turtles in the pond again as it was crowded in the morning, in there I got propositioned by a persistent Madam, the final straw after I escaped was at the pond a turtle was climbing out and I was convinced that he was going to demand dollars. I think that anyone who likes Jamaica stays at a hotel with private beach or at one of the resort compounds were only tame natives are encountered. Jamaica is the only place in the Caribbean that we would never go back to.

 

On the bright side we enjoyed Tortola.

 

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Sorry you found that. We have stayed on Jamaica 3 times and would have no hesitation returning.

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Just now, Bill Y said:

Pleased to hear @Selbourne that you managed to push your wife into town. You appear to have a better opinion of Ocho Rios than we did. We docked at the normal pier but it seemed a long trek off the ship as we were pestered every inch of the way by taxi drivers and tour operator. We were warned on our previous cruise by an elderly Jamaican of the Windrush era  who told us of a visit back to Jamaica where his brother had to tell people he’s one of us so don’t rip him off. We tried to find the public beach, we were constantly approached by men wanting to show us something or to escort us somewhere. A chap repairing his car took pity on us and told us how to get to the beach, even although we were only a few hundred yards away we still got accosted another couple of times. In the afternoon I went back out for a walk, and walked past where you docked and towards the Dunn River, between leaving the town and the dock there were policemen at regular intervals interspersed with drug dealers. Once past this area of police protection one was fair game for people wanting to hang things around your neck and general hustlers. Back in town I visited Turtle River park to see the turtles in the pond again as it was crowded in the morning, in there I got propositioned by a persistent Madam, the final straw after I escaped was at the pond a turtle was climbing out and I was convinced that he was going to demand dollars. I think that anyone who likes Jamaica stays at a hotel with private beach or at one of the resort compounds were only tame natives are encountered. Jamaica is the only place in the Caribbean that we would never go back to.

 

On the bright side we enjoyed Tortola.

 

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There were quite a few persistent tradespeople, but in all honesty we have found that in several of the ports. I tend to walk quickly (even pushing the wheelchair) which gives off a message that I’m not stopping. I suspect that amblers are easier game. I also tend to ignore them and don’t make eye contact or look at what they are selling. One chap walked alongside me for a short while, which was a bit intimidating and another, when I ignored him, shouted after us in a British accent “you’re from London, innit” which I thought was quite funny (we aren’t BTW) 😂

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20 minutes ago, Selbourne said:


There were quite a few persistent tradespeople, but in all honesty we have found that in several of the ports. I tend to walk quickly (even pushing the wheelchair) which gives off a message that I’m not stopping. I suspect that amblers are easier game. I also tend to ignore them and don’t make eye contact or look at what they are selling. One chap walked alongside me for a short while, which was a bit intimidating and another, when I ignored him, shouted after us in a British accent “you’re from London, innit” which I thought was quite funny (we aren’t BTW) 😂

The best sales pitch was in Turkey",hey big b------s Asda price."

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Selbourne, regards churches as stop off on tours, I suggest that is because most cruise passengers visiting are from the US.  Those big ship's carry a lot of passengers from home ports over there. 

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44 minutes ago, Selbourne said:


There were quite a few persistent tradespeople, but in all honesty we have found that in several of the ports. I tend to walk quickly (even pushing the wheelchair) which gives off a message that I’m not stopping. I suspect that amblers are easier game. I also tend to ignore them and don’t make eye contact or look at what they are selling. One chap walked alongside me for a short while, which was a bit intimidating and another, when I ignored him, shouted after us in a British accent “you’re from London, innit” which I thought was quite funny (we aren’t BTW) 😂

True, but once you have run the gauntlet of taxi drivers and tour touts you can normally relax a bit. We have been to bazaars where if you dawdle past a shop people will run out and try to drag you in. It’s just that we felt that it was constant there and with the persistence was the perceived threat of it turning nasty.

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1 hour ago, brian1 said:

The nudey bloke showed everyone something for no charge.

I was offered the dubious option of enjoying his bamboo by the guy with the wave runners while negotiating a price.  When I declined politely (I had no idea what he was referring to) he gave me a can of Dragon stout for my OH as it would make him have good bamboo too and I  exited red faced when it dawned on me what I'd been discussing!

Edited by Megabear2
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3 hours ago, tring said:

Selbourne, regards churches as stop off on tours, I suggest that is because most cruise passengers visiting are from the US.  Those big ship's carry a lot of passengers from home ports over there. 

There's also a lot of pride in these churches which are often the centre of village life.  In Barbados for instance there's traditionally a rum shack immediately next door to the church to facilitate celebration after the services.  Most of the "traditional" islands have a very high percentage of church goers.

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Tortola Update

 

The Captain has just announced that we will be two and a half hours late into Tortola (we are cruising at 20-21 knots) but there is thankfully some good news at last. Tortola was never advertised as a tender port, not even a possible tender, so we were disappointed to discover during the cruise that it had changed to be a tender port. Apparently a Norwegian ship is leaving at lunchtime, so we will be tendering for the first 4 hours or so and then we will move alongside at a berth. This means that my wife will now be able to go ashore and also that we have no more tender ports this cruise, both of which are great news. We will also be staying in port until later to make up for the later arrival. 

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