Question for Cruisemom/Euro Cruiser

[Hlitner]

I have been "informed" that DW wants to explore Trastevere (weather permitting) during our upcoming port day in Civitavecchia.  That neighborhood is not our usual haunting grounds so wondering if you have any advice/suggestions, etc. for that part of Rome.  We will certainly do our share of  browsing and be looking for a decent cafe/restaurant for lunch.

Hank

[cruisemom42]

I don't to Trastevere that often, there aren't so many Roman ruins in that part of town. 🤷‍♀️

 

But when I do go...  

 

If you haven't been to the two major basilicas (Santa Maria in Trastevere, Santa Cecilia in Trastevere), I highly recommend. Both are old and have mosaics from 10th-13th centuries. Of the two, Santa Cecilia is my favorite -- there is a beautiful sculpture of the saint. Also a beautiful crypt and Roman ruins beneath. It's sort of Trastevere's answer to San Clemente (e.g., levels of history) if you're familiar.

 

I also love Dar Poeta for lunch, if you like pizza. It's a tiny place, with something like 10 tables inside. Get there before it opens or expect a wait.

 

 

[euro cruiser]

My don't miss sites are Santa Maria in Trastevere and San Francesco a Ripa, for the amazing Bernini (The Ecstasy of Ludovica Albertoni).

 

I often eat at Sette Oche in Altalena (home - Ristorante (setteoche.it)).  They offer basic, well made food at reasonable prices but you're not going to be raving about the best meal you ever had.

 

When I was staying in the neighborhood last November I tried Da Enzo al 29, one of the current darlings of Tik-Tok/social media.  All week long I watched people line up (they don't take reservations) and wait 30 minutes or more (sometimes in the rain) to eat there.  I happened to catch them for lunch one day when there wasn't a line and, while the food was perfectly fine, it was also nothing to write home about but it was much higher priced than Sette Oche.  I would not wait even five minutes, but then I don't feel the need to be where "everyone" else is going, either.

 

If you're around on a Sunday the Porta Portese market is an interesting stroll:  Porta Portese Market | Turismo Roma

 

I rented an apartment in Piazza in Piscinula for a month the first time I visited Rome and Trastevere still holds a place in my heart, but it has changed a bit over the last couple of decades.  Back then I was the only short term renter in the building, now it's harder and harder to find actual residents.  

[Hlitner]

Thank you both,  I just printed out your suggestions and gave them to DW :).  As to liking pizza, that is like asking a cow if they like to .........    On the other hand just yesterday we were in the best pizza city on earth,  NYC :).  

 

Hank