Trip report: just off Celebrity Apex - Norwegian Fjords Cruise - May 15-23, 2024

[BuckeyeMark]

DAY 2: BRUGES BELGIUM

Spell Bruges with one “S” or two; it’s still an easy sail from Southampton that puts us in Bruges for a 7 AM - 3 PM stay. That’s not very long given all there is to see and do there! The day dawns with a great breakfast in the OVC. Unfortunately looking out those big windows shows that it is drizzling and rain is expected all day. Oh well - get the Celebrity umbrella from the room, put on your Dollar Store poncho (you do have those, right? #mustHaves), and let’s do this!
 

We arrived at Zeebrugge, and it’s a complicated port. Why? It is an industrial port where you are not allowed to walk off the ship and make your own way outside the port. You must ride the (provided) shuttle bus to the port terminal. From there, a number of options to take you the 25-minute ride into Bruges itself are available.  

 

CRUISE EXPRESS AND LEGENDS TOURS 

 

On this cruise, we were originally slotted to go to Nordfjordeid, but Celebrity changed it to Bruges (which we decided was the best switch ever after we ate Bruges’ chocolate). That meant, however, that for the longest time, there were no shore excursions on Celebrity’s website. So, after asking Mr. Google we landed on Legends Tours with Nicolas. There was a group of us that went together on this and it went better than we could have imagined. He was super helpful - we didn’t want to tour breweries (we don’t drink) and wanted to add the Madonna to our tour. We also wanted to do the canal tour. Basically, he designed a custom tour for us that cost about $40 plus the Madonna tickets. Celebrity later added tours but we had this locked up for less, and it went where we wanted to go. The complicating factor was getting to Nicolas, and that’s where Cruise Express came in. We booked them from the cruise terminal to Bruges. It was $25.

 

THE DAY

The Apex docked and cleared by 7:30 and we were off the ship, on the Zeebruge shuttle, and then on Cruise Express by 8ish. It’s really not as hard as it sounds. The port shuttles took us to the terminal, we walked through the terminal, took a hard left on the street outside and there was the Cruise Express building about a half block away.
 

Cruise Express took us to a drop-off point - a parking lot - near a city park with a pavilion and a paved path that leads to a red bridge. Here is where we made our first encounter with a harsh reality in Bruges: pay toilets. While there were free restrooms here and there a lot of places got one Euro to use the facilities. Some places did take a credit card, while others wanted a one Euro coin. Be ready!
 

Our day in Bruges began with a stop in a chocolate shop where they had platters of incredible Belgium chocolate ready for us. We all got to try and taste it, and it was better than the hype. Belgian chocolate is extremely smooth, and its texture is extra creamy. It is delightful in every flavor - lemon, dark choc sea salt, rosemary, and more. We all loved it and bought a ton. You may want to cancel your plans to go there - it’ll take a while for them to restock, I’m sure! LOL
 

From there we went on to the Madonna, which was amazing. It was, for the longest time, the only Michaelangelo sculpture outside of Italy. We were very glad to see it. It is beyond incredible. I’m still awed at how he carved the beautiful lifelike folds in the Madonna’s robes - out of marble! The Cathedral is a wonder by itself as well. From there, we headed on to other sites, including a canal boat tour, which really made us feel like we were in Venice (okay, full disclosure: I’ve never been to Venice, so how do I know what it feels like?). The rain continued on all day, a steady drizzle that became a downpour from time to time, but nothing stopped, so we just kept going. A stop at a waffle shop for a filled waffle fortified us for lunch, and we kept touring, seeing the two city squares and the city hall. The city hall is incredible. Our guide led us up a couple of floors for a great view and to see some woodworking and carving that was really well done.
 

All in all, Bruges is a fabulous city, and I wish we’d had more time there. But we saw a lot while there and, as I mentioned, took a bunch of chocolate home with us. Bonus tip: I heard there was a “mutiny” on a Celebrity tour because the guide hadn’t prepared people for pay toilets! Folks needed to answer nature’s call but couldn’t do so because they weren’t near a restroom or didn’t have a Euro, there was grumbling and the unhappies took hold, and ultimately people abandoned the tour to go eat more chocolate (and find a restroom). That report made us feel all the better for Nicolas and Legends Tours. The DW says if you do some research and have a good map of Bruges, you could do it on your own. It is, however, nice to have a guide telling you the history of the town and making sure you’re where you should be.
 

We got back to the ship for supper in Tuscan and again it was just so-so. It was mediocre enough that DW and I talked about it being the only disappointment. The evening show was a Beatles tribute band which some in our group enjoyed but DW and I passed on. Full disclosure: the Beatles may have been Day 1 and tonight we had the comedian.
 

Tomorrow: a sea day.

Edited May 27 by BuckeyeMark

[KKB]

4 minutes ago, TMLAalum said:

Best desserts (and morning pastries) are at Cafe al Bacio. Can get them to go.

YES--I love the coconut macaroons

[flora_76]

Hi, following this with interest as I'll be on the Apex in July. Can I ask about timings for Bruges? I can see that you disembarked at 7,30 and you were at 8ish in Cruise Express. Can I ask what time you took Cruise Express to be back on time before the 3 pm departure? And did you book it online or in person?

I'd love to see Bruges but bit afraid of timings as I'll be travelling with two kids.

Thanks!

[BuckeyeMark]

4 hours ago, flora_76 said:

Hi, following this with interest as I'll be on the Apex in July. Can I ask about timings for Bruges? I can see that you disembarked at 7,30 and you were at 8ish in Cruise Express. Can I ask what time you took Cruise Express to be back on time before the 3 pm departure? And did you book it online or in person?

I'd love to see Bruges but bit afraid of timings as I'll be travelling with two kids.

Thanks!

DW and I went back and looked at our texts and times, and we were on the Cruise Express at 8:35. It's about 20-25 minutes into Bruges, so I'm guessing my disembarking times given above are pretty accurate. We took the shuttle to the cruise terminal at 7:30 and were on the Cruise Express by 8. We were off the bus, organized with our guide, and into Bruges by 9.

For coming back, we were on the buses by 1:30. Cruise Express drops you in a parking lot AND YOU NEED TO DROP A PIN THERE because it's kinda hard to find your way back (unless you have a flawless sense of direction, which I most certainly do, but apparently I forgot to pack it). It's about a ten-minute walk into Bruges itself. Really pretty walk - over a red bridge and into a wonderful part of Bruges that feels like you've stepped back several hundred years in time.

Our guide wanted us to be on the buses by 1:30 so that we'd be back by 2ish. That gives you approximately four and a half hours in Bruges which is plenty to see a chocolate shop (or two), the Madonna, and do a canal ride. It is a long walk back to the Cruise Express drop-off point. Two tired kids and no stroller could be a challenge. You could grab a taxi and just jet back to the bus - that would solve that little problem.

 

YOU NEED TO BUY MADONNA TIX IN ADVANCE. Also, we booked Cruise Express online in advance. CExpress has a bus every half hour headed back to the port and they give you those times so you don't have to choose a specific time to go back to the ship.

Edited May 28 by BuckeyeMark

[flora_76]

Many thanks for your advice. Looking forward to continuing reading about your trip!

[lydnsyd]

On your arrival back at Southampton - can you remember what time was the earliest for disembarkation. We are on the July Med cruise and need to organise a taxi home. We are due to dock at 0600 but from previous experience they tend to arrive earlier than that.

[BuckeyeMark]

6 minutes ago, lydnsyd said:

On your arrival back at Southampton - can you remember what time was the earliest for disembarkation. We are on the July Med cruise and need to organise a taxi home. We are due to dock at 0600 but from previous experience they tend to arrive earlier than that.

We were expecting 7:15 disembarkation and they were calling "walk offs" before 7! We were surprised it was that soon. Of course, your mileage may vary. Docking times are notoriously difficult to predict.

[Nanjen]

Thanks for sharing your cruise with us. My DH and I will be on the Apex the end of August doing the “Best of Scandinavia “ cruise so this is great timing for us.

one question, where did you go in the Cotswold?

[BuckeyeMark]

39 minutes ago, Nanjen said:

Thanks for sharing your cruise with us. My DH and I will be on the Apex the end of August doing the “Best of Scandinavia “ cruise so this is great timing for us.

one question, where did you go in the Cotswold?

We went to every little town and village you can think of! We told our guide all we had on our "must see" list was that famous line of thatched roof houses in Bibury and the Tolkien Tree Door. He took care of the rest - giving us the flavor of the Cotswolds in a wonderful tour. We went to Lower Slaughter, Tetbury (saw King Charles' shop!), Bourton on the Water, Broadway (saw Broadway Tower), Stow on the Wold and so many more that I can't recall them all. Some we just drove through or got a coffee but we saw so much. It was really magical.  The guide service was not cheap but there are many one-lane roads and back-routes that he knew to take that got us everywhere easily and quickly. It was a great day and well worth it. Our guide is at www.cotswoldtoursandtravel.com

Edited May 28 by BuckeyeMark

[dalesmouse]

Hi ,really enjoying your cruise story ,thanks for sharing.We will be doing the same one in a couple of weeks.Just wondered if you noticed many taxis waiting outside the port in Zeebrugge?If so were there any 8 seaters?

Thanks 

[BuckeyeMark]

21 minutes ago, dalesmouse said:

Hi ,really enjoying your cruise story ,thanks for sharing.We will be doing the same one in a couple of weeks.Just wondered if you noticed many taxis waiting outside the port in Zeebrugge?If so were there any 8 seaters?

Thanks 

It was raining and we were trying to get to Cruise Express w/o getting any wetter than necessary and we didn't know exactly where we were going ... so we were very focused on finding the CE people so I don't know how much my view on this is worth. That said, I don't recall seeing ANY taxis outside the port in Zeebrugge. Maybe there was a taxi stand and I missed it since I wasn't looking for a taxi. In the North Europe forum there is a lot of talk about Zeebrugge and how to navigate the port and transportation options. If I were you I'd post over there and see if you can get a more informed viewpoint.

[JDPCruisers]

3 hours ago, flora_76 said:

Many thanks for your advice. Looking forward to continuing reading about your trip!

Following along a well as we are on Apex out of Southampton next May/June for Scandinavia/Norway Fjords, so thanks for the info and pics!

[dalesmouse]

12 minutes ago, BuckeyeMark said:

It was raining and we were trying to get to Cruise Express w/o getting any wetter than necessary and we didn't know exactly where we were going ... so we were very focused on finding the CE people so I don't know how much my view on this is worth. That said, I don't recall seeing ANY taxis outside the port in Zeebrugge. Maybe there was a taxi stand and I missed it since I wasn't looking for a taxi. In the North Europe forum there is a lot of talk about Zeebrugge and how to navigate the port and transportation options. If I were you I'd post over there and see if you can get a more informed viewpoint.

Thanks  for the reply Buckeye Mark,I have been told by one of the taxi companies there is a stand but completely understand you were otherwise engaged.

Welcome to a Northern European summer🌧️🌦️🤭

[Nanjen]

1 hour ago, BuckeyeMark said:

We went to every little town and village you can think of! We told our guide all we had on our "must see" list was that famous line of thatched roof houses in Bibury and the Tolkien Tree Door. He took care of the rest - giving us the flavor of the Cotswolds in a wonderful tour. We went to Lower Slaughter, Tetbury (saw King Charles' shop!), Bourton on the Water, Broadway (saw Broadway Tower), Stow on the Wold and so many more that I can't recall them all. Some we just drove through or got a coffee but we saw so much. It was really magical.  The guide service was not cheap but there are many one-lane roads and back-routes that he knew to take that got us everywhere easily and quickly. It was a great day and well worth it. Our guide is at www.cotswoldtoursandtravel.com

Thanks so much. It sounds like you had a great time 

[vkb2751]

1 hour ago, dalesmouse said:

Hi ,really enjoying your cruise story ,thanks for sharing.We will be doing the same one in a couple of weeks.Just wondered if you noticed many taxis waiting outside the port in Zeebrugge?If so were there any 8 seaters?

Thanks 

We were on the same cruise. Taxis were lined up at port and most were for 8 passengers. There were some smaller cars. Also, you could have the same driver pick you up at a set time for return trip

[dalesmouse]

4 hours ago, vkb2751 said:

We were on the same cruise. Taxis were lined up at port and most were for 8 passengers. There were some smaller cars. Also, you could have the same driver pick you up at a set time for return trip

Fabulous ,thanks for the info👍

[MMMCruiser]

Following along and really enjoying your posts.  Thanks for sharing - this is great.  I'm booked on an Apex Norwegian Fjords cruise later this summer and this is really helpful.  It will be my first time sailing with Celebrity. 

[BuckeyeMark]

DAY 3: A DAY AT SEA

 

Sea days are wonderful, especially when you’ve been on vacay for five straight days. The flight overnight to London, a day in the Cotswolds, a day in Oxford, then heading down to Southampton via Stonehenge, followed by a rather damp day in Bruges (a perfect day for ducks but I’m not a duck) made us ready for a day off.

 

The sea day gave us a chance to explore the Apex further. What a ship it is! We were constantly blown away by its design, cool vibe, and amazing features. For example, the Eden space in the very back of the ship was incredible. We were there in the afternoon, and everyone was reading or visiting quietly. It was such a very cool place to chill out. So much green! I believe in the evenings it may take on a more nightclub vibe and I know there were some acts that played there at night, but in the afternoon it was really relaxed. We also visited Café Al Bacio. As a certified coffee nerd, I was anxious to try the coffee. All in all, it wasn’t great but a lot of our friends (who are regulars with Green Mermaid coffee) thought it was pretty good. I found if you ask for a double-shot you get a coffee that isn’t too bad.

 

Here’s a good place to say that we had the Wifi-Drinks package on this trip and it turned out to be a very good thing. Since we don’t drink I was a little hesitant but it was very nice to be able to grab a Coke, a bottle of water, or a coffee whenever we wanted. It’s not always about dollars and cents - sometimes it’s about convenience and being on vacation!

 

Celebrity had a digital scavenger hunt before lunch, and we joined in. The task was to find 12 works of art on the ship in one hour. After running all over the ship the hour ended without DW and I collecting photos of all 12. But a comparison to the key that the assistant cruise director had showed a couple of pieces of art had been removed and weren’t on the ship anymore! He was using an old key! It was still fun though. You kinda have to keep this sort of thing in perspective - it wasn’t the Super Bowl! You can see some of the artwork in my pics below.

 

We had lunch in the Ocean View Café, and that was wonderful. I can’t say enough good things about the OVC. Big salad bar area, a carving area, a sandwich bar, daily hot food choices, Asian specialties and a lot more. Emphasis: a lot. Truthfully, by this time, we were ready to ditch the MDR and just eat here all the time! It was huge, airy, and so spacious you never felt like you were bumping into other people or having to stand in line very long. The variety was just unmatched. Every day it changed, every day it seemed to have more fresh ideas, and every day it was just delicious-ness. The pizza bar on the back of the OVC had the best pizza I’ve ever had at sea. The OVC was a real highlight. Whoever designed and is running it needs a medal (and should be asked to help the folks downstairs in the MDR figure out how to make top-notch food). One down note: a lot of folks were playing cards or other games and were taking up a much-needed table during the lunch hour. I guess it’s like saving pool loungers - hard to do much about it. But when you’ve circled the OVC twice trying to find a seat, and there are tables of card players, you’d sure like someone to ask the gamers to wrap it up!

 

That evening we ate at Cosmopolitan. The service was quite slow but the food had improved. It wasn't 5-stars by any means, but it's better. The best part of the evening is that it was “Evening Chic night.” I was surprised by the number of suits and ties I saw, with a few tuxes rounding out the mix. It seemed like most of the ship participated, and most were dressed up a little. DW had a new dress that looked amazing. I thought we looked very “chic” together!

 

The night ended with the show “Tree of Life” in the main theater. The reality is DW and I just aren’t production show fans. It could be done at the highest level by the best dancers and singers in the world, all holding an Oscar and a Tony while balancing a Grammy on their heads, and it would still remind me of something done by the fourth graders on PTA night. We watched a little and then moved on. That’s just not for us. And that was okay because we had a very early start to tomorrow planned.

 

Tomorrow what we came for: Flamm fjord!

[tscoffey]

3 minutes ago, BuckeyeMark said:

 

 

 

 

Elephant Man was my favorite.

[Scottishclover]

I’m enjoying your report very much and you and your wife are indeed looking ‘chic’. That’s such a pretty dress.
 

We are doing the Fjords and Arctic Circle cruise this July. Our first Celebrity cruise was on the Apex and we loved the ship. I agree with your comments on the OVC. I travel with 2 vegans and someone who eats gluten free and there’s even plenty of options for them. Looking forward to your report on Flam as it’s also one of our stops. 
 

Regards the card players who linger

( at peak lunch hours!!), I would politely asking them to move on. That’s so rude taking up a table when people need to sit down to eat. 

 

Enjoy the rest of your cruise and I hope the weather dries up a bit for you.

 

[baw53]

3 hours ago, Scottishclover said:

I’m enjoying your report very much and you and your wife are indeed looking ‘chic’. That’s such a pretty dress.
 

We are doing the Fjords and Arctic Circle cruise this July. Our first Celebrity cruise was on the Apex and we loved the ship. I agree with your comments on the OVC. I travel with 2 vegans and someone who eats gluten free and there’s even plenty of options for them. Looking forward to your report on Flam as it’s also one of our stops. 
 

Regards the card players who linger

( at peak lunch hours!!), I would politely asking them to move on. That’s so rude taking up a table when people need to sit down to eat. 

 

Enjoy the rest of your cruise and I hope the weather dries up a bit for you.

 

I am also really appreciating this articulate non biased review too.Looking forward to the Flam Railway review as we are on the same cruise as you in July and booked this excursion ( with hotel stop) .Re the folks playing cards I was told by a couple in the Baico they occupy tables wherever/whenever they can , sitting with one drink for as long as possible as they have booked an interior cabin with no table or comfy seating and obviously no daylight .

[H2OH!]

Thank you for sharing so much detail!!  Fabulous! 

 

We are on the 6/5/25 Apex cruise so am so excited to read your detailed review and tour operators! 

 

In September 2023 we did a week in London followed by an 8 day cruise out of Southampton to Spain and France. I am jealous you got to see Stonehenge with some sun!  The day we went was POURING rain! Thankfully my Eddie Bauer rain jacket saved the day! Worth every penny! Stonehenge is incredible. We will visit again...hopefully with better weather!

 

We used this company to go to Stonehenge, Bath and a Secret Place. They are small group tours and were fantastic. At first we were not trilled about a 12 hour tour but the day flew by. I would use these folks again in a heartbeat! https://theenglishbus.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIroHSr_WyhgMVVDjUAR0BUA6LEAAYASAAEgJY1vD_BwE

 

 

[abbydancer2003]

Thanks for this.  We're doing 2 Apex in August - first is 7 day Norway, four days off the ship (although your description of Brugge sort of made me wish I'd booked the one betweeen) then on for 11 days Best of Scandinavia.  I'm looking forward to the rest of your review.

[BuckeyeMark]

If someone can tell me how to embed pics in my post I'll do that. Until then they'll keep showing up at the end! Let's just call it a feature - I'm keeping the reader in suspense to the end! 😂

[nordicacres]

I’m no expert, but after you are done writing a paragraph hit “Add Files” and then click the “Insert” button at the bottom right of the photo once it uploads. That should insert the photo, and then you can “return” and start a new paragraph.