Xpedition Redux - 2005 VS.2009

[BillC]

We were part of a group of 20 that went on the Xpedition in August,2005 that had a fantastic time, so much so that we decided to put together another group to go at a different time of the year to see different animal patterns. The first trip was called "the trip of our lifetime" by everyone, so I thought I'd share my thoughts on "what's different?" now. We sailed on the 6/7/09 sailing with a group of 16, 3 of which had sailed also on the 2005 voyage. The 13 new travelers concluded that this was 'the trip of their lifetime" and the 3 returnees concluded that the Xpedition experience is much better than before.Celebrity has built on the strenghts of the ship, the crew and the itinerary and has significantly added to the wonderful experience that the Galapagos provides. Here are some major differences or similarities, as well as a few things that need improving:

 

Demographics - In 2005 we had 66 passengers on the ship. This time we were just about full with 92 passengers. No children and teenagers last time, this time about 20 mostly well-behaved, a few not behaved at all.(You would expect a parent who was advised that their child was throwing rocks at the sea lions would respond with something better that "boys will be boys".

 

The Marriott - As lovely as ever! We showed our platinum card and were given access to the concierge level. Unfortunately they changes their policy to you only get 1 glass of wine, or 1 local beer per day. They have also significantly changed their laundry service (important for the 10 of our group who'd gone to Machu Picchu for 8 days prior to this trip!) and now offer service every day, except holidays. If you are willing to pay a 50% premium they offer 2 hour service.

 

Saturday Tour - We did not take the tour since it is exactly the same as in 2005. We did rent a car and guide (Edison)from Rain Forest Tours and went to the Saturday market in Otavalo.We also had a wonderful lunch overlooking a crater lake, and spent an hour and a half shopping for leather goods in a nearby town that had great quality and very reasonable prices. We paid $225 for the entire day.

 

Saturday Dinner - Celebrity has now switched to a much better approach by holding the dinner tonight at the opera house retaurant. It was a very good meal, and I had a perfectly cooked filet, something I know that I won't get on the Xpedition. THey had a tenor who sang a few sets of songs and was selling CD's for $10 to fund local children's programs.Last time the dinner was held after you returned from the Galapagos, and everyone was so tired, and most had very early departures the next morning,that people wre just rushing through their meal.

 

Captain's Club Elite - There still is the 10% fare discount for Elite members, but this time 1st class seats in the charter flight were also assigned. On board the "upgrade fairy" was active as we were upgraded fron deck 4 to a suite on deck 5. Additionally 3 of our couples were also upgraded to better cabins. The suite was very nice, particularly since you could sleep with the cabin door open at night. We also received welcoming champagne and free 1/2 hour massages from an excellent masseuse.Our attendent, Salome, was outstanding, and as good as any we've had on a Celebrity cruise.

 

Flights - Last time we flew on a scheduled TAME 727 flight, this time we flew on charters on Aerogal, which used older 737's. Despite what some have expressed recently,I did not see any major difference between them Both served a snack between Quito and Guayquil, and a full meal to / from Baltra.On the flight from Quito we talked with Patricio Suarez, the Celebrity GM for Ecuador and Peru, who indicated that Celebrity was still working to find a ship to do the Amazon (we heard that also on our 2005 trip, as well!) He seemed very interested in our reaction to the rtip, and he got off in Guayquil to fly back with the returning passengers of last week's trip.

 

The Xpedition - As nice as ever, although the hull needs work (there is a drydock scheduled in September. Onboard the ship is in excellent shape. The crew is well-tranied and friendly and still can't do enough to please you.They have finally replaced the stinky diesel motor on one of the pangas so now each has a 100 HP Yamaha engine. Ther were only 2 crew members for the previous cruise, Jorge Parelles, the cruise director, and Juan,one of the waiters.

 

The Food - Again, somewhat controversial to some people recently, but I found it much better in quality, variety and seasoning than they previous cruise.Breakfast and lunch are very typical Celebrity offerrings with omlet and waffle stations and a wide selection of fruits, cereals, pastries, etc. for breakfast usually served just in the restaurant. The Beagle Grill was used much more sparingly, but there was alsways a continental breakfast available, as well as sandwiches and snacks when you returned from an excursion - a really nice enhancement. Many of the lunches were themed (Mexican, Italian, etc.) and I found them quite satisfying. Several days an excellent carving station was available, one day a whole roasted turkey, and another day a whole roasted pig that was excellent. Unfortunately, I had to doubly my Lipitor that day to make up for the 3 portions of crispy skin that I ate!) There were no instances of too salty, or spicy that had been reported recently, and I found the Cuban chef to be very personable and capable. The kitchen will handle special requests within reason, and was also able to handle special diet requirements othat some guests had. The dinner menu has changed the most with 3 to 4 appetizers (vs. 2) 2 to 3 salads with multiple dressing options (vs. 2) and with 5 to 6 main selections (vs.3). Certain selections like pasta carbonara, which was a special in 2005 now appear on the regular menu. The entres usually offer a pasta, vegetarian, chicken, pork, fish, and beef selection (and yes, the beef is as bad as ever).The fish is very good, and very fresh. Lobster tail was on the menu 3 times during the week, once steamed ( the largest and juiciest I've ever had at sea!) once BBQ'd and served with giant Ecuadorian prawns, and a third time in a fish stew. Another item of complaint that I've noticed on "Anyone Recently Back..." thread is about deserts. I thought they were quite good. Usually a table with a selection of 5, or more items is et out for you to help yourself. They also had homemade ice cream at most lunches and dinners and one night we had a superb chocolate souffle.

 

The itinerary - Due to the different seasons the itinerary worked out to be 50% repeats and 50% brand new excursions. Since the animal patterns differ based on the time of year even going back to the same place is very different, At the albatross airport last time we observed 2 couples in the mating ritual dane. This time there were abot 15 dances going on, and hundreds of albatross sitting on their nests hatching their eggs. Not as much takeoffs and landings but a much more fascinating visit with these creatures.The panga drivers are very expert and the naturalists are as good, or better than ever in their knowledge, their pride in the Galapagos , the care they have for their group, and their wonderful personalities. In the evenings, the naturalists mingle during cocktails and dinner and really add to your appreciation of the Galapagos and its people.

 

Snorkeling - A much improved operation with almost brand-new equipment. They now have stainless steel lockers on deck3 with hangers with your room 3"s on them to hang your wetsuits, as well as numbered hooks to hang you bag of gear after you've washed it off. No more lugging all your wetstuff back to your room!

 

Excursions - They have cut from 3 levels to 2, which is a real problem for people who have mobility problems. There are now very few panga-only excursions offerred so that was a very real problem for about 6 people on our voyage. I would suggest that they offer an option afterthey have delivered all the people that are taking the 2 levels of excursions.

 

Entertainment - Another big improvement area. Last time they had a keyboard play before dinner and several times on the back deck. Now they have an excellent musician, Jorge (no, not the CD) who plays every time you return to the ship, as well as at lunch and at dinner. One evening, a waiter, Edison, joined him playing the saxaphone. This guy could give Kenny G. a run for the money, but can Kenny serve you your meals? Another evening the crew formed a band of 5 musicians and played some excellent and fun music befire karaoke began on deck 5. There was lots of dancing and mingling during this night, and a good time was had by all who attended.

 

Weather - Like last time, it was not too hot or too cool. The Humboldt current had arrived so the water temperature was around 70. Although this is the start of the dry season we had considerable rain on 2 days. Remembers to bring a rainproof jacket on the excursions. Wasps were a problem in several islands this time, and a few people got bites. There are fire ants in the upland turtle fields.Also be very carefull when walking through these fields since these giant tortugas are "high producers".

 

Return to Quito - We left the ship at 9 AM and were at the airport in a few minutes.Last time the naturalists stayed with us to wish us goodby as we boarded the plane. This time they just dumped us there. WE waited about 2 hours before we could enter the VIP lounge, which is very nice. Despite the fact tha Jorge was on our flight, no one made any announcement that our charter was delayed. We took of after 1 PM, stopped in Guayquil to let of some crew and the 6 people who were going on the Machu Picchu segment and finally landed in Quito only to find that we had to wait about 30 minutes for the buses to arrive. Not Celebrity's finest moment, and certainly diminshed a lot of people's feeling about this wonderful trip.

 

Sunday Dinner - The La Hacienda restaurant is closed on Sunday, but Celebrity uses it as the private setting for you last group dinner.The meal was quite good, and yes, I had an excellent filet cooked perfectly, so it must be that they can't ship the "good beef" to the Galapagos. There was a national election going on, so no alcohol could be purchased from noon on Saturday until Monday. After a week of drinking lots of Argentenian and Chilean wine on board the Xpedition, drinking Sprite with the dinner just seemed strange.

 

Monday Departure - When we checked back into the Marriott they gave us sheets with our transfer assignments. We had a 6:30 AM Continental flight ot Houston so we were on the first bus out at 4 AM, which meant getting up at 3:15 AM. WE wre at the airport by 4:30 to have to go through multiple lines and security checkpoints as well as baggage searches at various checkpoints. The exit tax is now over $40 per person and must be paid in cash. All flights were delayed an hour because a fog came in, and there's a 2 KM minimum visibility for takeoffs, but we arrived in Housto with plenty of time to make our connection to San Diego.

 

"The Bottom Line" - A great trip in August, 2005, an even better one in June, 2009. It's well worth going back at different times, and you won't spend so much time the second time worrying about pictures, so you can really observe and enjoy the Galapagos.

[cruisecatmama]

We are just beginning the planning stage for September 2010 and your review answered many questions. Thank you!

[Jeep61]

Thanks for the great summary - it is interesting to see how the experience evolves. We are looking forward to our turn in April 2010.

[drfun48]

I agree about the pictures 100%. My second trip was more relaxed and enjoyable.

Did they still put the spotlights on the water at night to observe the sea life?

How was the star gazing?

Trip #3-in 31 days--the anticipation is building.

We too are elite---I hope we get 1st class also. The Tame flight had none.

As I mentioned previously X messed up my triple reservation so they upgraded us to two rooms,so I don't expect a further upgrade onboard.

I too will report on the changes I noticed.

[fotocruiser]

We are booked on the March 14, 2010 sailing, and your review was outstanding, and added lots of details to what we have already picked up. Thanks for posting!

[Buffyr]

We are booked in May 2010 and really appreciate the details and the insight you offered. You made us even more excited about our "trip of a lifetime"!

 

Elizabeth

[BillC]

Star gazing only took place one night since the Moon was full at the start of the cruise. We missed it because we were fascinated by the many sharks and seals that were on both sides of the boat illuminated by the ship's search lights. The people who attended did not enjoy it much because the person who gave the lecture only spoke Spanish so everything had to be translated.

 

On the 2005 cruise the captain gave a 30 minute presentation that was outstanding. We lucked out since there was no Moon that night as well as any light pollution from civilization.

 

There are websites that you can check out the Moon phase that will be during your cruise.

[drfun48]

Star gazing only took place one night since the Moon was full at the start of the cruise. We missed it because we were fascinated by the many sharks and seals that were on both sides of the boat illuminated by the ship's search lights. The people who attended did not enjoy it much because the person who gave the lecture only spoke Spanish so everything had to be translated.

 

On the 2005 cruise the captain gave a 30 minute presentation that was outstanding. We lucked out since there was no Moon that night as well as any light pollution from civilization.

 

There are websites that you can check out the Moon phase that will be during your cruise.

I selected my next dates based on a new moon and meteor showers. First trip new moon made viewing great---second trip full moon washed out many stars.

The sea show was really great too.

If one is flexible with the dates I strongly advise checking for a new moon ---it's really worth it.

[hcat]

which month is preferred?

[drfun48]

which month is preferred?

 

Try this link.

 

http://www.galapagosislands.com/html/when_to_go.html

[crt37]

I remember reading about a virus that was causing people to get sick on the ship for a long period of time. Cruise, after cruise, after cruise...

 

Anyone know if that problem has been fixed?