The Rome Less Visited.....review

[cruisemom42]

Day 3: Hadrian's Villa

 

I've wanted to go back to Hadrian's Villa for many years. My only previous visit was decades ago on one of those combo bus tours of Villa d'Este and Hadrian's Villa that does justice to neither. I truthfully remember little about either site (well, I was a teenager...)

 

In previous trips I let myself get discouraged by others who've said it's difficult to get to Hadrian's villa on your own (and tours that just visit the one site are hard to come by). But this time I was determined to go -- having read two great books about Hadrian in the past couple of years, it was the right time.

 

I also found out that eurocruiser was going to be in Rome at the same time and was interested in joining me. So we pooled forces and did our research. This post will be a bit more "nuts and bolts" about that than my other ones -- mainly because this info shouldn't be so hard to gather; and in the end, it really wasn't difficult!

 

Logistics:

 

To do the trip on your own without a car, the easiest way is to take a combination of the metro and COTRAL bus. There are many buses (and trains) daily to Tivoli, but only a few make a stop that's very close to Villa Adriana, which is the modern name. Our goal was to figure out how to do the trip in the easiest way possible and we were (mostly) successful.

 

We first deciphered the COTRAL bus schedule from Rome to Villa Adriana and found out there were few choices indeed for the "close" bus, including 7:00 am, 8:45 am, and 11:45 am -- the only times that would make any sense. We decided to meet at Termini at 8:00 am, where we'd take Metro Line B to the Ponte Mammolo station, the next-to-last stop (going in a northerly direction) on this line. The COTRAL buses going to Tivoli and Villa Adriana depart from just outside the station.

 

Once at Ponte Mammolo, the COTRAL buses were easy to locate. We did find the upstairs ticket window closed, but were able to purchase the bus tickets at the small snack shop/bar on the lower floor. One KEY recommendation we'd read was to buy both your tickets (to and from Rome) here, to avoid problems later. This was very helpful advice, as you'll read later! The bus tickets are currently 2 euro each.

 

From here we had just enough time to comfortably make the 8:45 bus and we were on our way. Be sure to ask before you get on the bus if it stops at Villa Adriana. I believe the correct bus will say "Tivoli" but also "Via Praenestina" on the front. (Eurocruiser, correct me if I'm wrong...)

 

Funny, but for some reason neither of us could exactly remember just how long the ride would be before we reached our stop, so we spent the last half hour of what was about an hour's ride scanning the horizon for details. As it turned out, the driver remembered our stop and we got off with no problem. It was an easy walk of 5-6 minutes to the entrance of the Villa. We arrived at the ticket counter just before 10:00 am.

 

So far, so good. The trip out was easier than anticipated, and the total cost so far was 3 euro apiece for metro and bus. The key was figuring out the COTRAL schedules; they do change occasionally. (Ron in Rome's website gives a good primer on how to read a COTRAL schedule). Also, other buses enroute to Tivoli can drop you in the vicinity of the Villa Adriana but it's at least an additional 20 minutes' walk.

 

I wish I'd thought to take photos while we were enroute, but honestly it wasn't difficult.

 

Next: Villa Adriana itself!

[Coolcruise02]

Wonderful review and pictures!

[cruisemom42]

Hadrian picked a doozy of a spot for his villa. He ruled Rome when Rome was at its most mighty, and he was the most well-traveled emperor of all, having visited most of Rome's provinces by the time he seriously started building his villa outside Rome. He used his knowledge of all these places to build the various "settings" at Villa Adriana.

 

Inside Rome itself, emperors had learned not to live too "high and mighty" for fear of upsetting the masses. (Just remember Nero's "Golden House"). But outside Rome all bets were off and emperors could be both creative and lavish. Hadrian had an interest in architecture and was very involved in all aspects of constructing his villa.

 

The setting is perfect -- close enough to Rome for a day's horseback ride in ancient times (or an hour's journey now), but far enough to be definitely "country". It is still lovely -- rolling hills, trees, a slight haze in the October air:

 

 

 

We bought our tickets and rented the audioguide. I'd spent a great deal of time putting together a self-guided tour of the LARGE site, but as luck would have it, I'd forgotten to put it on my Kindle (or print out a copy before I left :rolleyes:), so the audioguides were quite helpful in orienting us. (Each major building or site had a number and you could listen or not as you chose.)

 

The ruins are extensive, and unfortunately have been picked over through the centuries so that mainly the brick structures of the buildings remain (but not the decorative marble and semiprecious stones, frescoes, mosaics.....) One of the most well-known spots in the ruins is called the Maritime Theatre. It's a little man-made island surrounded by a "moat". Hadrian apparently used it as a retreat -- going off to find solitude and pulling up the drawbridge behind him:

 

 

 

Hadrian was very fond of domes (he may have had a hand in rebuilding the Pantheon to its current shape), and there are many at the Villa. Some are part of the several baths on the site:

 

 

(Edited to add: sorry can't seem to get the above image to display, CC doesn't like something in the link......)

 

The pool below was part of the Imperial area of the palace (other areas were intended for servants, guards, and mid-level bureaucrats). It may have been used as a swimming pool, or it may have been a fishpond, a very popular garden element. But it was definitely a pool with a view:

 

 

 

Servants were expected to be unobtrusive and stay out of sight. The villa grounds are crawling with passages (some underground and some above ground but completely covered) that would have keep busy servants from ruining the Imperial views. One such covered passage is shown here:

 

 

Most of these were blocked off, but we found our way inside one of them, just to experience what it was like to walk from building to building in the dim light, without any nice views.....

 

 

Probably the most beautiful spot at the Villa now is the area called the Canopus. Named after a canal in Egypt, this long pool was lined with famous statues, including copies of the caryatids (female pillars) from the Acropolis in Athens. (Hadrian loved it as much as modern tourists!). Hadrian designed a dining room at one end (not shown), presumably to wow important guests:

 

 

 

There are many other interesting areas on the site, as well as a small museum near the Canopus, and we explored quite happily for over 3 hours. But somewhere around 1:30 we started thinking about heading back to Rome.

 

We saw very few other people during the time we were there. I thought it was a very peaceful, idyllic spot. The gardens are well maintained but casual (not as fancy or formal as Villa d'Este) and the ruins are grouped into areas with nice little walks in between.

 

By the way, there is a small gift shop at the entrance with assorted books. Also, just past the entrance there is a model of the site that gives a bit of orientation. However, I do recommend either bringing a guidebook or renting the audioguide as there is no written explanation onsite. We also noticed a restaurant near the gate, but it appeared to be closed for the season, so be forewarned if you go in the off-season.....

[starwhite2]

Lovely synopsis. Enjoyed it thoroughly. Thanks.

[CathyCruises]

Since this has been on my list for a long time, I am really happy to read about your adventures! I am going to print this out for my next trip!

[dln929]

Thank you so much for your travelogue of one of my favorite cities! If you don't already own it, you might enjoy this quirky little book, City Secrets Rome, very much. It sounds like you and the author, Robert Kahn, are simpatico. http://www.amazon.com/City-Secrets-Rome-Essential-Insiders/dp/0983079501/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322826150&sr=8-1

[euro cruiser]

We decided to meet at Termini at 8:00 am

An interesting (to me, anyway) side note to this story; we agreed to meet near the entrance to the bookstore in Termini and found each other easily (we had never met in person before). As we made our way to Tivoli we talked about what we had each been doing in Rome over the past couple of days and discovered that we had been sitting almost next to each other at dinner two nights earlier at La Pigna.

 

Be sure to ask before you get on the bus if it stops at Villa Adriana. I believe the correct bus will say "Tivoli" but also "Via Praenestina" on the front. (Eurocruiser, correct me if I'm wrong...)

Yes, that's correct. The stop closest to Villa Adriana is on Via Lazio, so that's another way to verify. If the bus doesn't go to Via Lazio it's not the one you want.

 

Funny, but for some reason neither of us could exactly remember just how long the ride would be before we reached our stop, so we spent the last half hour of what was about an hour's ride scanning the horizon for details. As it turned out, the driver remembered our stop and we got off with no problem. It was an easy walk of 5-6 minutes to the entrance of the Villa. We arrived at the ticket counter just before 10:00 am.

I know that I was distracted finally getting to meet and talk to Cynthia - that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it! What did help, however, was having spent some time with a google map in street view; I knew what the street should look like and that there was a left turn just before the bus stop, so it was easy to recognize it when we got there. It was great, however, that the bus driver verified it for us.

[cruisemom42]

An interesting (to me, anyway) side note to this story; we agreed to meet near the entrance to the bookstore in Termini and found each other easily (we had never met in person before). As we made our way to Tivoli we talked about what we had each been doing in Rome over the past couple of days and discovered that we had been sitting almost next to each other at dinner two nights earlier at La Pigna.

 

Yes, that's correct. The stop closest to Villa Adriana is on Via Lazio, so that's another way to verify. If the bus doesn't go to Via Lazio it's not the one you want.

 

I know that I was distracted finally getting to meet and talk to Cynthia - that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it! What did help, however, was having spent some time with a google map in street view; I knew what the street should look like and that there was a left turn just before the bus stop, so it was easy to recognize it when we got there. It was great, however, that the bus driver verified it for us.

 

 

It was so funny to find we were both at the same restaurant at the same time, virtually side by side and didn't even know it! Shows the value of good restaurant recommendations..... :) That was my favorite meal in Rome on this visit -- the gnocchi with the cinghiale sauce was absolutely delicious.

 

You make a good point about using the Google map street view. It did help us realize when we were getting close. I think all the research we did greatly contributed to the ease of getting there.

 

Returning to Rome:

 

Getting back wasn't difficult either, although it didn't go exactly as planned. We'd hoped to be able to pick up the bus at the same stop where we'd gotten off earlier. We had tickets in hand -- which turned out to be a really GOOD thing as we did not find anywhere nearby to buy one. In fact, a couple who was also waiting at the bus stop didn't have tickets, and after some conversation with us they wandered off to try to find some (and/or to walk to the further bus stop). We didn't run into them again.

 

While we grabbed a quick beverage, eurocruiser tried to confirm the information we had about a bus around 2:00 and the response had us cautiously optimistic. However, after a couple of local buses came and went, we were unsure if we should stay, walk to the farther stop (where we knew we could get a bus to Rome) or just take the local bus into Tivoli itself and then get a bus to Rome.

 

The next bus (around 2:15 or so) said "Rome", so we got on it. We had a lovely ride into Tivoli (beautiful fall scenery), where we stopped at a bus depot. At first we thought the bus was just making a stop, but everyone else exited and then the driver pointed us toward another bus that was about to leave for Rome, so we hopped on board -- along with about 30 or so high-spirited middle schoolers who were headed home after school. It was fun to watch them, and fun to see how the adults made them give up their seats to older passengers where needed. After a few stops, most of the kids cleared off and we had a relatively quiet and uneventful ride back to Rome. (Again, we were talking a blue streak, lol.)

 

Incidentally, our bus ticket back to Rome (purchased in the morning) was all we needed for the transfer. Do keep hold of your ticket always, just in case this sort of thing happens.

 

We thought we'd get off at Ponte Mammolo and take Metro B back to Termini, but the bus actually stopped at Rebibia (the endpoint of the B line) first, so we got off here, thinking that it would be less crowded to get on.

 

At Termini we parted ways but had such a good time that we decided to meet up for dinner later at La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali. And that dinner reminds me to emphasize again to pay attention to the daily specials whenever you dine out in Rome. There were several daily specials and the ones we tried were delicioso!

 

Also, I forgot to mention earlier that admission to Villa Adriana is 6,50 euro, and the audioguide was (IIRC) 4 euro. So the total cost for the day's excursion was 16,50 euro per person.

[bobalink]

I love reading this thread and seeing the photos.

 

Note to euro cruiser: How fun that you and Cynthia finally got to meet and explore Rome together. (thanks for sharing that part of the story ;))

 

I always think of you and cruisemom42 as being the "experts" on the Italy Board, so it is great to hear about this part of the adventure.

 

Fun, fun, fun!

[euro cruiser]

Note to euro cruiser: How fun that you and Cynthia finally got to meet and explore Rome together

It was great; going out to Tivoli was on my "one of these trips" list but the opportunity to go with Cynthia, who has forgotten more about ancient Rome than I ever knew, was too good to pass up.

[jodi58]

THANKS for this thread Cynthia!

 

one more year to go and we will be in Rome, the Albergo del Senato is booked and so looking forward to exploring more of this city!

 

Jo

[cruisemom42]

Thank you so much for your travelogue of one of my favorite cities! If you don't already own it, you might enjoy this quirky little book, City Secrets Rome, very much. It sounds like you and the author, Robert Kahn, are simpatico. http://www.amazon.com/City-Secrets-Rome-Essential-Insiders/dp/0983079501/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322826150&sr=8-1

 

Thanks for mentioning that book -- it does sound intriguing! Do you have it?

[cruisemom42]

Last Day:

 

 

Talk about mixed emotions -- this was the day I would head to Civitavecchia to board the Aegean Odyssey for a wonderful 14-day Med cruise. On the other hand, this was the day I was leaving Rome....

 

I'm not the world's earliest riser, so by the time I got up, ate a nice breakfast at the hotel, and repacked my bags, I had just enough time for a nice ramble around the area in a direction I'd not been yet on this trip.

 

First I headed over to Piazza Navona to visit the famed Bernini fountain there -- and dearer to me, the obelisk topping it which was brought to Rome from Egypt by Caracalla (he of the bad reputation and gargantuan baths):

 

 

 

After a walk around the Piazza, I next wanted to check out the (few) remains of the ancient Circus of Domitian, which originally gave shape to today's Piazza. You can view some of the remains from the northerly end of the Piazza (below street level of course, but visible from the street) from the street that runs behind it. You can get a better view by walking into the building on the Piazza Navona side, assuming it's open. Luckily, it was on this day:

 

 

 

The Circus was built as a venue for athletic competitions ("agones"); over time it's thought that this name eventually became "Navona".

 

From here, it was just a few steps to the Palazzo Altemps, another branch of the Museo Na*ionale. I'd never been there but wanted to see the Ludovisi Throne -- not really a throne, but a beautiful piece of sculpture that was found in an area thought to have been the superb ancient gardens of Sallust, a historian and contemporary of Julius Caesar.

 

Since I'd kept my ticket from two days before, I was entitled to free admission (good for all branches of the museum for 3 days). However, I hit a snafu. The overzealous security guard would not let me take my medium-sized purse into the museum. I did not want to check it as I'd just stopped at an ATM to replenish my supply of euros before getting on the ship, and the cupboard didn't exactly look secure to me. So caution triumphed and I left it for another visit....

 

I headed back toward the Pantheon, passing the building where the Italian Senate meets. It was in session, with police bustling all around in the best Italian manner and a guard at the door who looked about 16 with a large gun:

 

 

 

 

My final stop was at the Baroque (Rococo) church of Santa Maria Maddalena, which has one of my favorite exteriors among churches in Rome (not that I've seen them all by a long shot), including wonderfully expressive statues and this lovely cherub:

 

 

 

Of course, I had to eat my last lunch in Rome on the Piazza della Rotonda. I can't sum up my visit any better than by having you picture me sitting there and soaking in Rome with all my senses: sight (the Pantheon), touch (a light breeze ruffling my hair), hearing (music from some street musicians), smell and taste (a delicious dish of pasta). While I watched, a mother picked up her small daughter and spun her around to the music. I felt like doing the same......

 

[cruise kitty]

Cynthia,

 

Your last post & photo were pure magic! If you're going to wax poetic, then a farewell to Rome is definitely the best subject matter!

[SadieN]

Wonderful review! I'm leaving for Rome in a few days and now have more places to explore.

 

The Cat Sanctuary in Torre Argentina (Post 4) is a great help to Rome's cat population. The Roman animal shelter system seem to be privately run endeavors.

 

DD is studying in Rome and fostering kittens for the sanctuary.

http://romancats.com/index_eng.php

[euro cruiser]

I headed back toward the Pantheon, passing the building where the Italian Senate meets. It was in session, with police bustling all around in the best Italian manner and a guard at the door who looked about 16 with a large gun

I can't remember if I told this story before, but the way I found the restaurant that we both ate at (without realizing it), La Pigna, was by following two well dressed men who left the Italian Senate building (Palazzo Madama) at lunch time. Some might call this behavior stalking, I call it excellent restaurant reconnaissance.

[cruisemom42]

Cynthia,

 

Your last post & photo were pure magic! If you're going to wax poetic, then a farewell to Rome is definitely the best subject matter!

 

Thanks. :) Everyone thinks I'm very no-nonsense but I can get positively lyrical about Rome.....

 

I can't remember if I told this story before, but the way I found the restaurant that we both ate at (without realizing it), La Pigna, was by following two well dressed men who left the Italian Senate building (Palazzo Madama) at lunch time. Some might call this behavior stalking, I call it excellent restaurant reconnaissance.

 

Great story! The things we do in the name of trip research ;) And why is it that politicians always know where the best restaurants are?

[Gracie115]

Thank you so much for this review and all the wonderful pictures. We are returning for our 2nd visit in May for 3 full days and plan to visit some of the sites you reviewed. Your information is ALWAYS so helpful and appreciated.

 

Oh...we also loved the Albergo Del Senato....and are staying there again in May....it's just a marvelous hotel and I'm sure you were the first to recommend it to us awhile back...thanks!!

 

Gracie

[CathyCruises]

Cyntha, how was your ship? I checked it out--looks lovely. What ports of call were included? I'm sure that being a smaller ship there were lots more options.

[euro cruiser]

And why is it that politicians always know where the best restaurants are?

Maybe because that's where the lobbyists take them? :p

[cruisemom42]

Cyntha, how was your ship? I checked it out--looks lovely. What ports of call were included? I'm sure that being a smaller ship there were lots more options.

 

Hi Cathy, I saw your earlier comment -- I'm sure you'd find the trip out to Hadrian's villa a piece of cake and very worthwhile. Just make sure you have good weather.

 

As to the ship, I had a great cruise. It's a line that's not for everyone -- not much entertainment to speak of (other than great lecturers, i.e., actual professors and authors; and a very talented and versatile trio of classical musicians....), but the itineraries are great.

 

Take a look at my review, it goes into detail re: the ship and a bit about each port we visited. One of the nice things about this cruise was having several overnights (Palermo, Tunis) and several places where we visited more than one port (Rhodes, Crete). Plus Tasucu, Turkey was a huge delight for me.

 

http://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=91769

 

I was lucky enough to get upgraded to a great cabin. As a solo traveler, I have to say that my accommodations on this trip were definitely better than usual between the Albergo del Senato and the ship. (Being used to rooms that are tiny, have no view, often on an attic floor in hotels or lower deck on ships, lol.....) It's a trip that will be hard to top....

[dogs4fun]

Hi Cathy, I saw your earlier comment -- I'm sure you'd find the trip out to Hadrian's villa a piece of cake and very worthwhile. Just make sure you have good weather.

 

As to the ship, I had a great cruise. It's a line that's not for everyone -- not much entertainment to speak of (other than great lecturers, i.e., actual professors and authors; and a very talented and versatile trio of classical musicians....), but the itineraries are great.

 

Take a look at my review, it goes into detail re: the ship and a bit about each port we visited. One of the nice things about this cruise was having several overnights (Palermo, Tunis) and several places where we visited more than one port (Rhodes, Crete). Plus Tasucu, Turkey was a huge delight for me.

 

http://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=91769

 

I was lucky enough to get upgraded to a great cabin. As a solo traveler, I have to say that my accommodations on this trip were definitely better than usual between the Albergo del Senato and the ship. (Being used to rooms that are tiny, have no view, often on an attic floor in hotels or lower deck on ships, lol.....) It's a trip that will be hard to top....

 

Cynthia,

I have been lurking, reading your wonderful reviews for quite awhile. After reading your review of the Odyssey, I went to their website and ordered a brochure.

[euro cruiser]

Cynthia,

I have been lurking, reading your wonderful reviews for quite awhile. After reading your review of the Odyssey, I went to their website and ordered a brochure.

 

Hmmm....I wonder if Cynthia can get some kind of finder's fee, or referral fee, or at least a price reduction off a future cruise for bringing in new business?

[cruisemom42]

Hmmm....I wonder if Cynthia can get some kind of finder's fee, or referral fee, or at least a price reduction off a future cruise for bringing in new business?

 

Actually I'm afraid all my good recommendations are just driving the prices up (both for the ship and for certain hotels.....) ;)

[euro cruiser]

Actually I'm afraid all my good recommendations are just driving the prices up (both for the ship and for certain hotels.....) ;)

I know you're kidding, but I sort of wonder about that with some restaurants because once too many tourists frequent them they change. It's especially a problem if Rick Steves recommends something. However, other than expanding the size of the restaurant a few years ago, all the mentions of Taverna dei Fori Imperiali haven't seemed to change the place.