lens rec for canon rebel xti

[HarperSays]

Hello,

I am a total amateur so I hope this makes sense, but I love photography and taking photos. I have a canon rebel xti with the lens it came with (18-55mm, though I have no idea what those numbers mean). We are taking an Alaska cruise in May and I would love a new lens to take on the cruise, preferably a good zoom lens. What would you recommend? Thanks for any help you can give.

[bukieco]

300 f/4

[scubacruiserx2]

I would recommend the Canon 55-250 mm F/4-5.6 IS. It is $255 at Amazon. It is affordable , light and small. Make sure it's IS (image stabilized). It cost more but will keep your camera from shaking and blurring the image when zoomed to maximum. Here is a picture at 73 mm.

 

 

 

 

And the next photo zoomed to 200mm.

 

 

[TheOldBear]

Hello,

I am a total amateur so I hope this makes sense, but I love photography and taking photos. I have a canon rebel xti with the lens it came with (18-55mm, though I have no idea what those numbers mean). We are taking an Alaska cruise in May and I would love a new lens to take on the cruise, preferably a good zoom lens. What would you recommend? Thanks for any help you can give.

 

The good news is you have lots of time to practice with a new lens.

 

The 18 - 55 mm is the focal length of the lens - that describes the field of view. For your camera, the range is from a slight wide angle to a little bit of telephoto [good for casual portraits]. This is considered a 'normal zoom' lens.

 

For online resources, this forum is a good place to start. Also, take a look in the Alaska forum [under ports of call].

 

Outside of the CC forums, I would recommend the forums over on http://www.dpreview.com - forums there for 'landscape and travel', 'beginner questions' and Canon cameras.

 

You may also find a short photo course useful [like the two day 'Nikon School' ] Check with your local library, community college or school district [and if you have a real camera store available, ask the folks there for recommendations ]

[awboater]

Here is a useful webpage showing the relative differences between the various lens focal lengths.

 

http://www.althephoto.com/concepts/lenses.php

 

The numbers you speak of are the focal length of the lens. And the focal length is measured from the focal plane (where the sensor is) to the optical center of each lens. So a 100mm lens means the distance between where the sensor is and the optical center of the lens is 100mm long. And a 100mm lens would be longer than a 10mm lens.

 

The focal length is just a defacto standard that establishes what the lens is expected to do.

 

As the focal length increases (numbers get larger), the image becomes more close up, the field of view is reduced, and several other characteristics.

 

IF you wanted to bring distant objects up close, you would want a focal length of 100mm or more (called a telephoto lens). If you wanted to take a wide open vista of a landscape, you would want to capture as much scene as you could, and you would want a lens that is shorter than 35mm (called a wide-angle lens).

 

Lenses that approximate the scene as your eye sees it (that is, what your eye normally focuses in on) are usually 50mm give or take (depending on crop factors), and this focal length is called "normal", e.g. a normal lens.

 

So the lens that came with your camera is capable of wide angle to normal scenes. By adding a 55mm~250mm lens (or similar), you will have a normal to telephoto range.

 

Most DSLR owners like at least a range of 18mm to 200mm (or 300mm), which gives a good variety of zoom points.

 

Many compact cameras do this with a single lens - especially the bridge cameras. But DSLRs typically do this with multiple lenses (although there are some expensive single lenses that will also do this range).

 

At any rate, the multiple lenses generally result in a higher image quality throughout the zoom range. So the advantage is high quality, the disadvantage is having to carry a couple of lenses... but image quality is one reason to buy an interchangeable lens camera in the first place.

 

There is another issue called crop factor, but I hesitate to delve in it other than letting you know it exists as it confuses everything until you get the above concepts figured out.

[HarperSays]

Wow, you all are awesome and have helped me so much! Thanks! I will look in to these websites. I've taken a beginners class at the local community college which has helped me. I just don't understand all the logistics, which is hard for my non-techological brain to follow. I hope to learn more and more, though. Thanks again!

[CarolR]

I had the XTI for years and took it on many cruises. The recommendation for the Canon 55-250 is a great one. It is a great lens at a reasonable cost. My daughter is now the owner of that lens. I changed to a Tamrom 18-270 Piezo drive lens which is basically an all in one lens. I got tired of carrying around multiple lenses and trying to change lenses and then missing the moment. This lens has Tamron's version of image stabilization and has good image quality for us amateurs. I purchased it for about $600 about 2 years ago. Good luck with your camera- you will really enjoy it.

[loubetti]

The issue with MOST digital cameras is the size of their "sensor", typically a CMOS sensor, and how that translates to the focal length of the lens.

 

In the days of 35mm film photography, it was 1:1, and a 21mm lens would give you quite a wide view! Enter digital and you lose about 50% due to the size of the CMOS sensor. Thus your 21mm lens becomes a 31mm lens. This is why you see many folks suggesting focal lengths going down in the 12-15mm range, as they know you are adding 50% to that.

 

I had all these lenses.

 

Look at it this way: The lower the focal length number, the wider the view. What does work well with digital cameras was the high end of the focal length. You get 50% more! Thus a 200mm lens becomes a 300mm!

 

The best digital cameras have a 1:1 sensor, but they are pricey! Think the price for two in a grand suite on RCI, or maybe even Queens Grill on Cunard. Think $8000+ if not more.

 

I've been doing this for many years, and before going digital, used to run my own B&W and Color darkroom. I processed my own film and prints.

 

I went digital in 1999, and never looked back!

[loubetti]

I had the XTI for years and took it on many cruises. The recommendation for the Canon 55-250 is a great one. It is a great lens at a reasonable cost. My daughter is now the owner of that lens. I changed to a Tamrom 18-270 Piezo drive lens which is basically an all in one lens. I got tired of carrying around multiple lenses and trying to change lenses and then missing the moment. This lens has Tamron's version of image stabilization and has good image quality for us amateurs. I purchased it for about $600 about 2 years ago. Good luck with your camera- you will really enjoy it.

 

Sounds like a good deal! Good for you!

 

The camera aside, it is ALL about the lens.

 

I'll never forget, maybe 20 years ago, looking through a Leitz 2000mm f/4 lens at my camera shop. The thing was HUGE and, obviously the lens, not the camera was mounted on a tripod. You could never hand hold this.

 

The price of the lens was $14,000 at the time! They no longer make it.

 

If money is no object, you look for focal length(s) vs f/stop. This applies to both fixed focal length lenses and zooms. Which do you think would cost more: A 300mm f5.6 or a 300mm f2.8?

[HarperSays]

I appreciate the help very much. Learning a lot here and you all are really helpful.

 

Sounds like a good deal! Good for you!

 

If money is no object, you look for focal length(s) vs f/stop. This applies to both fixed focal length lenses and zooms. Which do you think would cost more: A 300mm f5.6 or a 300mm f2.8?

 

loubetti - what is f/stop?

[ikirumata]

I appreciate the help very much. Learning a lot here and you all are really helpful.

 

 

 

loubetti - what is f/stop?

 

f/stop refers to the size of the aperture. The smaller the number, the more open the aperture (f2.8 is more wide open than f4). The wider the aperture, the more light the lens lets in. The numbers on the lens state its maximum aperture.

 

How does this all matter? Well, you could probably write a whole class on aperture (ok, some already have), but photography is all about light. Over-simply, in order to get the best exposure, you have to balance aperture, shutter speed, and sensor sensitivity. Having a wider maximum aperture gives you more flexibility in finding that balance. Unfortunately, wider aperture lenses tend to be very expensive, especially at longer focal lengths.

[HarperSays]

f/stop refers to the size of the aperture. The smaller the number, the more open the aperture (f2.8 is more wide open than f4). The wider the aperture, the more light the lens lets in. The numbers on the lens state its maximum aperture.

 

How does this all matter? Well, you could probably write a whole class on aperture (ok, some already have), but photography is all about light. Over-simply, in order to get the best exposure, you have to balance aperture, shutter speed, and sensor sensitivity. Having a wider maximum aperture gives you more flexibility in finding that balance. Unfortunately, wider aperture lenses tend to be very expensive, especially at longer focal lengths.

 

Thank you! I've got a lot to learn, but this really helps to get me started.

[Biz64]

I would recommend the Canon 55-250 mm F/4-5.6 IS. It is $255 at Amazon. It is affordable , light and small. Make sure it's IS (image stabilized). It cost more but will keep your camera from shaking and blurring the image when zoomed to maximum. Here is a picture at 73 mm.

 

^+1! price vs. performance I would pick this lens any day. You can sometimes catch it on sale for under $200, or buy it used for about $150! Also, if your shooting mostly outside in daylight I wouldn't worry too much about a fast lens (f/stop). If you want to spend more the 70-200 f/4 is a good one too.

[jff50]

Thank you! I've got a lot to learn, but this really helps to get me started.

A great book to help understand the relationship between aperture, ISO, and shutter speed is "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. Highly recommended.

[Steviewonder1]

I use a Tamron 28-300 IS lens that I have had for 4 years. It is great and has performed well in Alaska and Europe. There is nothing better than catching the whale coming out of the water 400 yards away from a moving boat in sharp focus or getting a picture of the Eiffel Tower from a mile away on a boat during Sparkle Time with the spot light out of the top. My camera is also an XTI which is now 5+ years old with the large after market battery grip on the bottom. It has traveled several thousands of miles and still keeps on ticking......

[HarperSays]

Thanks everyone! I just bought the 55-250 lens used for $120. I'm excited to start using it. Now I'm off to buy the book "Understanding Exposure." Thanks for all the great tips!

[TheBeeSea]

Its a good deal for you I think. The Canon 55-250 can produce sharp pictures

[brmoqueen]

If I'm using a 55-250 or a 75-300 on a Rebel T1I and going on a whale watch in hawaii.........how do some of you set your camera to get the best pics???? I usually use auto only cuz I've not learned how to set it all........

[scubacruiserx2]

If I'm using a 55-250 or a 75-300 on a Rebel T1I and going on a whale watch in hawaii.........how do some of you set your camera to get the best pics???? I usually use auto only cuz I've not learned how to set it all........

 

I wish I was whale watching ! By best pics I presume you mean stop action. The runner icon on the mode dial will freeze action and blur the background behind the subject. The mountain icon will give a picture that stays in focus, if you want to show the scene behind the subject- but the subject may be a little fuzzy. Use the lens that says IS or image stabilized on the lens. It's very important when zoomed in. Also use something solid to rest the lens on if you can.

[ikirumata]

If I'm using a 55-250 or a 75-300 on a Rebel T1I and going on a whale watch in hawaii.........how do some of you set your camera to get the best pics???? I usually use auto only cuz I've not learned how to set it all........

 

There is not a concrete answer to this because it all depends on your shooting situations and choice of lens. Here is what I did in a nutshell (Im am not a pro by any means, and Im still learning myself)...

 

When I went whale watching in Alaska, I set my camera (T2i) to manual mode, spot metering, and auto ISO (see your manual on how to do this). I then set my Aperture to as open as it would let me, F4 in my case...your lens may be different, but lower F-number, the more open the Aperture. To do this, hold the AV button and roll the finger wheel behind the shutter release button. One way, I think Left, will open the aperture, Right will close it down. Then, I adjusted the shutter speed (release the AV button and roll the finger wheel) so that the light meter would register in the middle when pointed at my subject. You can see the meter either through the viewfinder or from the LCD.

 

On an overcast day, like I had, the shutter speed will be around 1000, which is fast enough to stop motion and help with camera shake (Im assuming that you are going to be hand holding the camera while on a moving boat).

 

Shooting in this way, you can adjust the shutter speed using the finger wheel as the lighting conditions change. Roll it Left to slow down the shutter when you dont have enough light and roll it Right to speed up the shutter when it gets too bright (you can also close the Aperture too in this case if you feel like it by holding down the AV button and moving the wheel like you did earlier to set the Aperture).

 

Here is a shot using this method:

 

IMG_4817 by ikirumata, on Flickr

 

Alternatively, if that is a bit too much for you to think about, you can try shooting in Av Mode and set the aperture wide open and let the camera figure everything else out for you.

 

In either case, practice practice practice. Try to shoot moving cars or kids playing. See if you can get good shots. Whales move a lot slower than cars or kids, so you should be good.