Review of Jade-December 3-13, 2014

[Educators2]

We loved our winter cruise in the Mediterranean. I'm happy to answer any questions. I have included tips for other slow walkers out there.

Susan

 

 

Our December 3-13, 2014, cruise to the Eastern Mediterranean on the Norwegian Jade was in a word “fantastic.” We met so many people from around the world, enjoyed calm seas, visited interesting ports, and had great sightseeing weather during the rainy season. I’m dividing the review into sections, so if a section doesn’t affect your travels, you can look at the parts that are of interest to you. I’m a “slow walker,” so I will highlight any mobility issues in the section on the ports.

GETTING TO CIVITAVECCHIA

We booked our own air, a non-stop flight on Delta from New York (JFK) to Rome, about five months before our cruise. Although this was expensive, we didn’t consider other cheaper options that involved trains, layovers in faraway cities or multiple connections. I promised myself not to look at the fares after I booked, but I couldn’t help myself. The fares never dropped more than one hundred dollars.

I had always left the transfers and excursions up to the cruise lines, but this time I made all arrangements myself, and everything worked out. My two criteria were a quick answer to my e-mails and no payment upfront. Since our flight landed before noon, I contacted all the shared shuttles from the airport (FCO) to Civitavecchia. ESA transfer promised to wait if our plane was late and Allessandro, a charming young man, was holding a sign with our name as soon as we departed the baggage area. He took our bags and wheeled them to his van which was parked about a city block away. There were four of us in the van and we were dropped off at our hotels in Civitavecchia, about 50 minutes away. We all arranged for ESA to pick us up at the pier when the cruise ended.

We stayed overnight at the San Georgio Hotel. It is identified as a four-star hotel but that is by European standards. The lobby was lovely, the breakfast the next morning was beautifully displayed and delicious, and the staff efficient. We asked for and received early check-in and a room with a shower instead of a bath tub. The wi-fi was free but not good at all in the evening when the hotel was full. The shuttle to the ship, about a half-mile away, was ten euros per person, but necessary.

EMBARKATION

The shuttle brought us to the Jade at about noon. It was very stormy and the shuttle deposited us right next to the ship. We were checked in within minutes. We dropped off our carry-on in the room and voilà, our cruise was a reality.

 

THE JADE

We had travelled on the Jade in 2009 when ships were still visiting Egypt. We have cruised on the sister ships, the Jewel and the Gem, so we were familiar with the layout. All of the public rooms were well-maintained, the staff very friendly and our stateroom, a mid-ship balcony cabin, had more than enough storage. Roy, the room steward, did an excellent job and was always around when we needed him. Note pads were left in the room to communicate with the room stewards- a great idea. We are Platinum cruisers (this was our ninth NCL cruise) and the free laundry (one bag for each of us on a day of our choice) was the best perk of all.

SHIP ACTIVITIES

I was the host for the Meet and Greet, held on the first sea day. If you are new to cruising, or if you are not familiar with the Meet and Greet, it’s a chance to meet fellow cruisers and the ship’s officers. Sign up through the Roll Call Forum on Cruise Critic. We have attended many Meet and Greets on various cruise lines and the most important thing is to encourage communication. After the officers spoke, I made sure to have a question or two because I knew that most of the time people are shy about asking the first question. The cruise director let us borrow a microphone and I asked everyone to introduce themselves and talk about the one place or activity they were most looking forward to. We had door prizes (very successful) and a magnet exchange. It was amazing. Almost everyone stayed to talk after the meeting and we met people from all over the world who we chatted with throughout the cruise.

The gym has lots of treadmills and exercise machines, weights, etc. We went to the gym early in the morning on sea days and never had a problem finding an open treadmill, etc. There were lots of activities listed in the Daily Planner but many were selling spa services, announcing that the library was open, or advertising sales. I’m a big fan of general trivia but the games were at six or seven in the evening when we had dinner. I do think that it is worth paying a bit more for the cruise and having lecturers, personal enrichment speakers, computer lessons, etc. There is a lot to do in the evenings-- production shows, live music, game shows, etc. I do think that Norwegian excels in the area of evening entertainment.

DINING

I purchased the Dining Plan when it was first introduced at a great promotional price. Even at full price, it is well worth it. We had lots of wine (for us) through our Platinum perks and we enjoyed all our meals. There were only 700 cruisers from the United States so we generally were the first to have dinner at 6:00 p.m. Needless to say, service was extraordinary. Even Teppanyaki, the Japanese hibachi restaurant, had open seats at that hour.

We put our names in for the lottery to have dinner with a ship officer and we were one of the twelve lucky cabins chosen for the second night of this dining activity. Don’t worry, if you wear your best outfit, you’ll be dressed just fine. Only two men wore jackets. We were seated with two of the ship’s engineers and enjoyed the evening immensely. It was our only time in the complimentary dining room and of course, we had the best service. It was a lovely evening with fellow cruisers and the officers.

 

PORTS

The ports were the highlight of the cruise for my husband and me. If you love ancient history, mythology, world cultures, you will love this cruise. I felt that I couldn’t keep up with a large bus tour, so I arranged tours with private companies or we took taxis to sites that I wanted to visit. Again, I confirmed all my reservations about a week ahead and let the tour operators know that we didn’t have cell service in Europe. Tip: Make sure you write down the phone number of the tour operator and bring your confirmation e-mail.

CIVITAVECCHIA

We enjoyed our walk through Civitavecchia, the port for Rome. The apartments and stores all had very interesting old doors and architectural elements. There were numerous shoe stores and clothing stores, many of which were outlets. Almost every store was closed for siesta until 4:00 p.m. so shopping wasn’t an option. Of course, we needed a battery and it was about 2:30 p.m. We finally found a battery by using the word “Duracell”—the global marketplace is alive and well. There was a lovely park across the street from our hotel that abutted the seashore and had a children’s amusement park and skateboarding area. We hoped to explore more the next morning but it was raining heavily. There are cobblestone streets but curb-cuts where you cross (not always at the corner). It wasn’t touristy at all in December. We did get euros from an ATM near the hotel; ATM’s are the best places to get currency and we felt safe using an ATM on the street in Civitavecchia .

 

OLYMPIA, GREECE

There are numerous tour buses just outside the port of Katakalon, Greece, the gateway to Olympia. I opted for Katakalon Express. They offered numerous options but we chose the bus with a guide and free wifi (excellent). You paid your own admission to Olympia and the museum and, if desired, 10 extra euros for a guide on-site. The guide was very knowledgeable and spoke in English and German. German archaeologists are assisting the Greek government in excavating the site and signage is in Greek, German and English. When we got to Olympia, I was amazed. The site is huge—it is an actual excavation area. You get to see the pillars, stadium remnants and columns from the first Olympic village. We had two hours there and in the off season, you could explore as much as you wanted without huge crowds. The grounds were gravel and it was easy enough to manage if you walked at your own pace. We couldn’t possibly explore everything. We went to the relatively new museum that housed the artifacts from the original site. The museum is totally accessible with clean restrooms and uncluttered display. Another hour at the site would have been even better. Tip: We needed that phone number of the tour operator when we went to the parking lot for bus pick-ups. The depot we were directed to was not where our bus was located. A very friendly bus driver contacted Katakalon Express and the bus picked us up. Since it was within the two-week olive harvest, we visited a family farm to see how olive oil was made. It was pretty low-tech but the family was lovely and had bread and olive oil for us. Very nice. By the time we got to the town of Katakalon, it was starting to rain so we didn’t visit many of the shops. The trip to Olympia far exceeded our expectations.

ATHENS, GREECE

We visited the Parthenon on our visit to Athens in 2009 so this time, our plan was to visit the new Acropolis Museum. I learned about an Express Bus X80 to the museum with its stop right outside the cruise terminal by the DHL store. Well, we walked and walked and as soon as we hired a taxi for 15 euros, saw the DHL store. Ah well, we’ll have to try again next time. It was a perfect sight-seeing day, sunny with temperatures in the 60s. The museum is world-class, beautiful in its display of antiquities, signage and architectural design. We arrived around opening time at 9:00 a.m. and stayed until 1:00 p.m. There is an archaeologist on-site who was delighted that I had a real question for her. All exhibits relate to the Acropolis. You can see the Parthenon from many windows, from the outdoor café, and from all angles on the third floor. I love museums that are dedicated to a single subject and this site is extraordinary. If you need time to sit, there is a video on the third floor and an indoor-outdoor café on the second floor. The latter was a great place for people-watching-- the school kids and the “ladies who lunch.” We did have a hard time figuring out the buttons in the elevator, at one time shutting the lights by accident. The museum is totally accessible but you have to walk on a cobblestone street to get there. A must-see-don’t miss this museum. The free wifi in the Athens port was not very good.

KUSDASI (EPHESUS), TURKEY

Loved Ephesus on our last trip and wanted to go back. This time, we used Ephesus Deluxe for their duo tour-Ephesus and one day in Istanbul. Our guide, Gazim, was lovely -- knowledgeable, hard-working and enthusiastic. If you have her as a guide, you have struck gold. There were six of us on the tour, three of us “slow walkers.” If you visit Kusadasi, you have to have a guide take you to Ephesus—either on a ship excursion or a private tour company. Our tour included a visit to the House of the Virgin Mary (whose authenticity is accepted on faith), the Terrace Houses, and the Basilica of St. John, mosque and pillar from the Temple of Artemis (a site that honors pagan, Christian and Muslim faiths). I enjoyed seeing the wishing wall at the House of the Virgin Mary where guests left their wishes on paper strips—very multicultural. Ephesus is amazing the first time and equally interesting on repeat visits. There is a lot of walking but there are small ramps in places and places to lean against or sit down if you are in a small group. I remembered the ancient toilets from our first visit but learned a lot more about the city in a small group. The Terrace Houses, where the rich folks lived, was the only area which was too difficult for me to explore—more than 200 steps. When a fellow cruise critic decided she couldn’t do the walking, I had company on the bench outside and my husband went in to take photos. He was amazed that the tile pattern inside matched our area rug at home and learned that rug makers were visiting the houses to get carpet ideas. It was a fantastic day and luckily, the rain held off until our lunch (included) at a carpet cooperative. There was a demonstration showing how silk threads were obtained from cocoons and of the weaving process; the salesmen are masters at sensing interest. One of the women bought a room-size carpet so our time at the showroom was extended. If your mobility is challenged, you can get to see Ephesus in a small group or private tour; if it’s raining, then it would be a major challenge on the marble. The port has a bazaar area with many aggressive hawkers, not for us. Another great day with a superior guide.

ISTANBUL

I was most excited about our visit to Istanbul, an overnight stop. I love exotic places that appeal to the senses. On our first afternoon, we visited Topkapi Palace. The movie Topkapi always captured my interest and I was eager to see the jewels that are housed there. We took a taxi from the taxi stand for ten euros. It was quite a long walk to the palace complex. In tourist season, I am sure that the crowds and heat would diminish the experience but we loved it. The area is huge and there is a lot of walking. The rooms all have a step up and are pretty dark inside but the armor, jewels and clocks, all housed in separate areas, were more than worth the admission. It was fascinating to see the vendors selling toys and pomegranates among other things. When we asked a guard where to find a taxi, we were instructed to walk all the way to the taxi stand where the prices were fixed. We did not get Turkish lira; everyone accepted euros or dollars except for the tram. Definitely worth a trip especially in the uncrowded winter season.

Our full day in Istanbul was part two of our tour with Ephesus Deluxe. We realized after taking a taxi to Topkapi that a guide wasn’t needed in Istanbul but the price of the duo-tour was more than fair. We and a young honeymoon couple were the only ones on the van. They had visited the Grand Bazaar the previous day and weren’t too anxious to go back. Yay! Bazaars are not our thing but we’d have a look just to say that we were there. The morning tour included visits to the major sites—the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome and the Cisterns (underground water system). Hagia Sophia was our favorite. The Cisterns are eerily interesting but you have to be careful since the ground is wet and slippery. Once again, having the tour operator’s phone number paid off. Our guide gave us time to explore Hagia Sophia on our own and meet by the café. Guess what? There were a lot of cafes that all looked the same. A policeman called the tour operator and our guide found us! We did feel pretty stupid. Lunch was on our own but not really. We were taken to a “local” place where no tourists would go. No prices listed either. Nothing appealed to me but my husband chose one chicken leg and what looked like small meat-filled ravioli. The honeymooners had many different items. When we were given the bill, our guide told us the price and it was outrageous. Ten dollars for my husband and twenty-five dollars each for the honeymooners. I wanted to say something but my husband would have been embarrassed. Many others on the ship had similar experiences so, ask first before you eat. The guide showed us a few shops in the bazaar; that was good since we weren’t harassed. To my untrained eye, the shops were selling the same thing—jewelry, spices, porcelain, rugs, and leather. I don’t like haggling and wouldn’t take a chance buying jewelry so we quickly called it a day. There are steps into the Blue Mosque but benches to sit to take your shoes off. You are given a plastic bag for your shoes. With Turkey’s political move to the right, women have to cover their heads. Bring your own scarf. If I ever return to Istanbul, I would see the other palaces and smaller historical sites.

NAPLES, ITALY

I did a lot of research and decided to do something different in Naples—a cooking experience with Eat in Italy Food Tours. I told Francesco that I was a slow walker and asked him which tour would be best. He offered a private pizza-making class which appealed to me. I signed my husband up for the tour as well. We had a scheduled meeting point in Vomero, a taxi ride from the pier in an upscale neighborhood. When the captain announced that there was a strike in Naples of all taxis and public transit, I thought all was lost. But no, the ship called Francesco and he drove to the port to get us. What a day we had. We learned about the quality ingredients used in the family business we visited and sampled them. Neapolitans are aghast that shredded mozzarella is sold in the U.S. The pizza chefs and the staff in the kitchen were smiling the whole time we were there. We tried delicious doughnuts made with pizza dough and rolled in sugar. We watched the preparation of pizza margarita and fried pizza (a specialty in which the dough is first fried, then topped with sauce and cheese and baked). Then my husband and I each made our own pies and used paddles to place them in the new high-tech ovens. Of course, we had a pizza party with the four pizzas. Francesco was with us for the four hour tour explaining everything and then took us back to the port. A memorable experience. Francesco then e-mailed us the photos that he took of our day. Awesome. Totally worth it. The port of Naples has cheap and very good wi-fi. Buy a coke for two euros and you’re given the password to use it.

 

DISEMBARKATION

If you wanted to walk off with your luggage you could leave at 6 a.m. Tags were called by 6:25 a.m. Everyone had to be off by 9:15 a.m. We left at 8:30 a.m. and ESA was there holding our name on a sign board and taking us to the airport for our flight home at about 1 p.m.

 

Phew!! You’re done reading. A great trip which I’d do again in a heartbeat.

[deladypilot]

Thank you so much for taking the time to write about your cruise. Europe is next I hope so it is always nice to read about what others do

[Studebaker59]

This is one of the most extensive reviews I've ever read on Cruise Critic!!! I appreciate all the "slow walker" comments, and the many hints you've given.

 

Great job!

[Candy mum]

Thank you so much we are sailing on the Jade 3/1/2015 for 21 nights ,did you prebook Greece olympia ,I was hoping we could just walk off the boat and join up with a tour . We have mainly booked tours with our meet&greet fellow cruisers . In Athens we to are hoping to make our way to the Acropolis from the port as we are doing the free athens walking tour,Thanks for the bus info have added it to my notes.:D Candy mum

[Educators2]

I prebooked for Olympia. It wasn't necessary. There are lots of buses right outside the port gates. I wanted the free wifi and a guide who explained what we would see.

 

The express bus is four euros round trip. There is a lot of information about the bus and it's schedule in the ports section on cruise forums.

Susan

[TXGalAJ]

On this cruise in March so this was really helpful!

[hawkeyetlse]

Just wondering: Who was your cruise director? And the captain?

[Albert Bell]

Thanks for your review, we were on the Jade in November 2014 and enjoyed our B2B med cruise too.

 

We also had Roy in our deck 10 mid-ship cabin, he does a good job and kept plenty of ice up to my buckets of beer.:).

[Educators2]

Hi Hawkeyetise,

The captain was Lars Bergstrom and the cruise director was Pedro Serra. I hear that Pedro will be going to a new ship. Captain Lars really loves the ports and the major attractions there.

[PathfinderEss]

Thanks for taking the time to write a review. Glad you had a good cruise.

[javasa]

We'll be on the 2/4 departure and your description not only helped, but also left us wanting!

 

Thanks!

[Demonyte]

Thanks for the great review.

 

Few more linebreaks (between paragraphs) would have made it more readable, but that was fixed by copying the text to a text editor and adding some more before reading. :)

 

EDIT: Now that I think about it, could you please describe the check-in process a bit more - the review said that you were dropped of right by the ship. Where did you check in and was there a lot of walking involved in Civitavecchia port? I'm going there in March with two persons with some walking issues, one of them in pretty bad shape (but not necessarily needing a wheelchair still). We are planning on staying the night after flight in a hotel not too far away from the airport in the city of Fiumicino and then take a private shuttle from there on the embarkation morning.

Edited December 18, 2014 by Demonyte

[EllieinNJ]

So glad you had a great trip. I'm a little concerned about the weather during winter. You said it was 60 in Athens. How cold was it in Italy? Did you need just a light jacket or something heavier. We are considering a trip next year.

[Educators2]

Hi,

Our shuttle dropped us next to the check-in area at the port. It was the closest we ever were dropped off. Almost no walking at all. Our private shuttle transfer picked us up right near the pier. Our driver said that he had a permit to come right to the ship.

 

It was between 50-55 in Naples. I wore a leather jacket with a cardigan underneath. I did not need a winter coat anywhere but a lot of people wore them. Note: I am always cold.

[cocoabeachcruiser]

Was there a currency exchange onboard? (dollars to Euro's or dollars to Lira)

 

Thanks

Steve

[SteveH2508]

Was there a currency exchange onboard? (dollars to Euro's or dollars to Lira)

 

Thanks

Steve

 

Do not do that! It is the WORST rate you will get by a country mile. Use the ATMs in the country you go to or use your bank before you go but NEVER use the cruise line to exchange currency.

 

BTW - Lira do not exist - Italy uses the Euro.

[hawkeyetlse]

BTW - Lira do not exist - Italy uses the Euro.

I believe they were talking about Turkish lira.

[cocoabeachcruiser]

I believe they were talking about Turkish lira.

 

You are correct Turkish Lira.

 

 

Thanks SteveH for the reply.

 

I just called my bank

 

Steve

[SteveH2508]

I believe they were talking about Turkish lira.

 

My bad - apologies - comment about shipboard currency exchange still stands though.

[Reebster]

If you want to take the tram in Istanbul, or get the best prices when haggling, you'll need Turkish Lira. The best bet is to withdraw some from an ATM in Kusadasi. The ATMs there are very convenient to the port.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited December 19, 2014 by Reebster

[Educators2]

The best rates for currency are through an ATM. We got some euros from Chase Bank in NY prior to flying. Although they told us they would get them for us as a "courtesy," they charged a pretty hefty fee. We used our Capital One card in Civitavecchia at an ATM- best rate, I think a 3 dollar fee.

We are used to ATMs inside the door of a bank. All the ATMs in Italy, Greece, and Turkey were open to the street. We were comfortable in Civitavecchia where the area around the ATM was not crowded but didn't feel comfortable in other ports. This is probably just us, figuring out language on machine, etc.

If you have to exchange for euros on the ship, the transaction fee was $10. (Better than what Chase charged us as a "premier" customer.)

 

In Istanbul, fellow cruisers negotiated better taxi rates with liras. Taxis all take euros, too.

[Reebster]

For what it's worth, a couple of months before my Jade cruise I opened an account with Charles Schwab. Their debit card has no ATM fees or charges for foreign transactions. I also felt more secure knowing that my primary savings and checking were secure in a separate bank. I had no safety issues with outdoor ATMs, even in Rome. But then, almost all of the ATMs I use regularly here in Texas are outdoors. We also used credit cards whenever possible to avoid carrying large amounts of cash. They were readily accepted everywhere but Greece.

 

 

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[hawkeyetlse]

For what it's worth, a couple of months before my Jade cruise I opened an account with Charles Schwab.

And put 100 shares of NCLH into it, I hope! :D

 

Istanbul is actually one place where old fashioned currency exchange offices are still a good way to get local money, if you already have euros or dollars in cash. I don't know if there are are in the immediate vicinity of the cruise terminal, but if you go to the Grand Bazaar and the surrounding streets they are all over the place, and the rates are usually very competitive, both buying and selling (which is useful if you end up with too much Turkish money and want to change it back to dollars/euros before leaving).

[sunandsnow]

We are traveling on the Jade in Feb. I am reading conflicting views about needing a Visa for Turkey. Our on line TA says we need one but what I have read online says that we don't. Our cruise is staying overnight but we start in Rome and end in Rome.

 

Did you need to purchase a Visa for Turkey?

[Reebster]

We took this cruise last month. You do not need a visa if you are just visiting Turkey on cruise port days, even if the ship docks overnight. If you fly through Turkey on your way to/from Rome, though, or have a layover there, the rules can be different.

 

 

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