In search of the Northern Lights March 2022 - photo review

[uktog]

I got great information on this board about what might or might not happen on this cruise, so I am returning the favour.  As a very regular Azamara cruiser, this was my first interaction with Viking so I have done a comparison and posted it on their boards.  I will not duplicate the information here, but have added the link if anyone is interested.  

 

I will ignore all the Covid related protocols etc as hopefully those hunting the Northern Lights next year will not even have to think about them.  However, I will just say that onshore, everyone in Norway was doing all they could to keep you safe, even though there they now have no distancing, mask wearing, testing or isolation regulations.

 

All photos I post were taken on an Iphone 11 Pro, nothing more fancy and almost all are unedited apart from a bit of cropping or straightening.

 

So Viking provided our air as is the case for most UK guests, we flew from Edinburgh to Amsterdam with a three hour layover (nice snack/meal options at the airport) before heading to Bergen.  Both KLM planes were very comfortable, flights of under 2 hours but sandwich snacks and drinks were provided free of charge.  We had taken a decision not to eat out in Norway that evening so to avoid the eye watering room service costs (a burger would have been £24) we bought snacks/sandwiches at Amsterdam for the evening.

 

Arriving in Bergen we could see Viking Venus…… but had we landed in Bergen?  

 

We loved their airport baggage area humour – oh how true.

 

We then took the Flyingbussen to our hotel really efficient and we prebooked so had the tickets at a reduced price – we actually booked in the airport in Amsterdam so I knew we were going to make it to the bus!

https://en.visitbergen.com/visitor-information/travel-information/airport-bus-p944603

 

Our hotel Raddison Blue Bryggen was very convenient, right beside the Flyingbussen stop and although the room was tiny and no view it was only for one night so no big issue, the bed was big enough and comfortable.  

Our rate included an extensive buffet breakfast which was very nice though I was a little freaked it was my first time in a crowded serve yourself buffet for over two years and it was surprising how many had already forgotten basic hygiene considerations.  We had booked the hotel direct so got a very good rate.  They were very prompt in answering email queries I had.

https://www.radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotels/radisson-blu-bergen/reviews

 

It was lovely being by Bryggen for an evening walk out and in theory you could have walked the 10 minutes or so to the ship next day but with an uncooperative wheel on one of our cases we took a taxi the hotel got for us.  We were in the car about 6 minutes and this cost us £16 on the meter.  Yes Norway is an expensive place.

 

Day two in Bergen saw us take an included tour around the city highlights.  It was our first Viking tour and we were impressed with the organisation.  All our guides throughout the trip were excellent, the buses were very comfortable and at no time did we ever feel hearded or part of a group.  Indeed we preferred the guiding with the Quietvox system as it does allow a little freedom and also its easier to hear the guide than when huddled around in a busy place.

 

Our tour had four stops -  at Bryggen on both sides,

 

 

at the Theatre and Ibsens statue and at the Greig Concert Hall.  

We were not rushed at any of the stops though there was no time for shopping (not an issue for us).  I suppose we could have left the tour at the final Bryggen stop, shopped and walked the 10 minutes or so to the ship but we opted not to.

[uktog]

Narvik

 

Enroute to Narvik we had the Arctic Circle ceremony which the cruise director and captain, along with a goodly number of guests, entered into with gusto.  (I have a great action picture that will not upload, I will try it again later - update, now at the bottom of the post!).  Being more keen on taking photos than getting a free shot of Aquavit, I declined.

 

Narvik is not the most scenic place on first glance however once you start to explore it has character.  We took the Viking included round town tour and it was very good.  It gave us a lovely insight into the town, its history and its surroundings and most importantly got us practising walking on the snow and ice.  It was an unseasonally warm March and that gave  us some challenges at times.  The snow was melting in the day then refreezing in the night temperatures.  So we were dealing with ice more than I would have liked.  I walk better in fresh snow but I had two craghopper walking poles and trax (lowest grade ones) on my boots.  I was absolutely fine if I concentrated on walking.  However one thing to be aware, coach drivers will not allow you to wear trax on the bus, nor will museums etc so they are only going to be of use if you can get them on and off easily.  Standing on an icy pavement trying to get them off wasn’t a good experience.

 

The night before we arrived in Narvik we were treated to our first, and probably best, display of the lights.  I had been to the excellent photography talks by James Fraser onboard.  He was very positive about the part iphones etc can play in photographing the lights and if you have an Iphone 11 or above there is no need to add in an app.  However he told us two things, you really need a tripod or be able to wedge yourself very very still and you have to be prepared.  Well I was prepared I had a trusty £15 Amazon tripod with me however its no use in your room when the lights put on a display outside the Explorers Lounge!  So these pictures could have been so much better.  For the rest of the trip the tripod came to dinner and the shows and the bars…..

 

 

 

In Narvik we had three stops, firstly over at a small fishing harbour on the other side of the inlet which was a real ice challenge.

We then went to the War Museum which was absolutely fascinating and gave an excellent oversight of the crucial role Narvik played in World War 2, something I knew nothing about (though I later went to a very good onboard lecture that covered Norway in World War 2 so I am much more up to speed on this now).  

 

Our final stop was at a beautiful original church from the 1800s outside Narvik which had, unlike so much else, avoided war damage.

 

 

A ships shuttle was available, we could have gone back into Narvik to explore further however we decided not to tempt fate and risk falling over.  We had managed one day upright!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 28, 2022 by uktog

[uktog]

Alta

 

Now we try and head for Days 2 and 3 in the upright position.

With two days in Alta we were packing a lot in (so the ships shuttle was never going to see us).

 

On Day One, we took the included tour in the afternoon.  It was three hours long but with two stops could have been done in two.  However it was the most lethal conditions underfoot at our first stop, the beautiful Alta Cathedral.  We saw a film about the lights and then had a very good talk about the cathedral and its imagery.  Everyone really struggled to relax and enjoy this as they knew they had the ice slope to face going back.

 

 

We then went on to the Alta Museum where the rock carvings are but be aware, if you are doing this tour in the winter you will not see the carvings, they are under snow and the paths to them are also closed.  However the panoramic view was beautiful

To be honest the hour in the museum was  too long, though it did give people one of the few shops we encountered on a tour in all our trips so if you are doing this itinerary in this order, bear that in mind!

 

That evening we headed out to Search for the Northern lights……. In 100% cloud cover.  There is no evidence in Alta the guides search for locations, they all head to one of three camps.  Where we were, Glod the independent provider also had several minibuses there.  So we say no lights but I had an expensive outdoor photography practice evening!!

 

 

So whilst Day 1 in Alta might not have given us the memories we wanted, Day 2 more than made up for it as we went to ride with the reindeers and learn about the lives of the Sami (complete with their snowmobile and handheld credit card machines for purchases).  It was a beautiful day and the ride was just gorgeous.  I had read it was impossible for many as the sleighs were so low – not true, ok I needed a little help due to my spine and joints issues but I am so glad I ignored posts here and on a facebook page that predicted doom and a lot of standing around as I would not get the ride.  

 

 

There were two buses at the encampment, our bus went its ride, then had fun trying to lasso “reindeers” – actually horns on a fence post,

before going into the tent and enjoying a lunch of reindeer stew and bread and the most delicious dessert of cloudberries in whipped cream with cake.  

I know some were squeamish about eating reindeer but as the herdsman said, its their way of life and is no more than you going by lambs or cattle and then having a roast dinner.  The Sami were so charming, so engaging I could have spent hours listening to their stories.

 

So Alta was a great stop – and just to rub in the previous nights no show the skies put on a good display as we were leaving (emptying the theatre and suspending the Assistant CDs show he was two songs into to another day).  This time I was ready, I had my tripod….

 

 

[uktog]

Tromso

 

We had a big disappointment before we reached Tromso.  Due to the weather conditions (wind and rain due) my DH lost his bucket list trip his ride with the huskies.  As he had not even seen a husky I hoped we would at least be able to correct that somewhere along the way.

 

Again this was a two night stop and shuttles were provided.  Due to the weather, we also arrived late into Tromso where we docked at the further out pier.  They managed to get the excursions rescheduled but all the Northern Lights trips were cancelled for the day due to cloud cover, the Tromso provider I feel was fairer than in Alta to guests.

 

This is a point where I have to highlight a risk in relying on information in postings on some social media sites.  There I read how bad (and dangerous) the Tromso Hunt for the lights viewing venues were.  We cancelled our tour based on that but should have waited for other validation.  Actually in Tromso, yes they don’t take you to a hokey camp setting, you have to use the bus toilets there are no facilities and in some cases you will be near roads but across from these pull ins where the buses can stop are some of the best lights settings in relative freedom from town light pollution.  On Day 2 we were on a tour and the guide and her colleagues were actively looking at weather maps and Aurora apps and deciding who went where later that evening so it was not everyone to the same place as in Alta.  Having seen photos people got on night 2 in Tromso I had a little regret at being so quick to cancel although as you will see we did have a lesser display from the ship.

 

Day 1 as I say was dreadful weather, we went on the included tour which again had a good guide.  We visited the Planetarium for a lovely video show on the Northern Lights and then we had a very informative drive around.  As the rain eased, we managed one photo stop.  Given the weather conditions, what we had was the best they could do.

 

 

Day 2 we purchased the optional excursion to go to Sommaroy.  This is a beautiful ride out around stunning scenery (many of our stops were places that might be used on the evening hunt) including seeing herds of reindeer roaming

Unfortunately we did not get the full photostops or Sommaroy walk around as our bus developed a fault.  We did manage to get to Sommaroy eventually and as the light was dropping and the guide was also due back for an evening tour she had to make some cut outs so we literally ate our waffles and set off back, so it was a 4 hour round trip for a 20 minute waffle!.  Our one picture of Sommaroy - 

However if you are content to be on a bus and enjoy beautiful scenery coming past you as you ride along with a few photo stops, this is the tour for you.  

We enjoyed the photo opportunities it gave, but were a little disappointed there was no recognition by Viking that we had not had our full tour experience in some pro rated refund.  

 

That evening, the lights did appear off the ship, even allowing for the light pollution of Tromso around 2200.  So all my lights photos I have were seen off the ship.  This might give comfort to some people who do not wish to make the long trips out late in the evening.

 

[uktog]

When we were ashore in Tromso an announcement was made that the next two ports Bodo and Lerwick would not happen and we would also be staying that night in Tromso due to the weather.  Unfortunately they had not allowed for the fact that many of us were on excursions so it was only by chance several hours later we caught up with the news.

 

It was a disappointment to lose two ports but its out of your hands.  There are two schools of thought as to whether we actually needed to lose Lerwick or not…. But we did.

These were the seas we encountered, though there were amazing views and very interesting light and cloud features to photograph that day.

So Tromso was the final photo stop I can post about.  

[Haworth]

Great pictures and happy memories of out trip thanks for sharing,  understandable caution about weather and see conditions.

[The Other Tom]

Thanks for posting.  Do you have a link to the tripod you purchased from Amazon?

[uktog]

Its the Victiv 56 inch tripod if you search on Amazon there is a range of Victiv products

 

Edited March 28, 2022 by uktog

[Frenchberet]

Thanks for the nice report and great photos!  We did the Northern Lights cruise in 2019 and this brought many happy memories!

[SailorPaulH]

Great report and photos. Understandable that you lose some options in winter condition but looks like great memories created.

 

On one point, whenever DW and I do winter travel and hikes, we always take our easily slipped on/off ice crampons for our hiking boots and shoes. They have saved us a few times!

[mchell810]

Your photos are really lovely …. not just the lights but the scenery as well. 

[oddjob16]

Great pics, Ann. You got them.😄

Not everybody do.👍

[janetcbl]

1 hour ago, SailorPaulH said:

Great report and photos. Understandable that you lose some options in winter condition but looks like great memories created.

 

On one point, whenever DW and I do winter travel and hikes, we always take our easily slipped on/off ice crampons for our hiking boots and shoes. They have saved us a few times!

What brand of crampons do you have? I have had two different ones and both slipped off or were too difficult to put on quickly. Thanks!

[SailorPaulH]

11 minutes ago, janetcbl said:

What brand of crampons do you have? I have had two different ones and both slipped off or were too difficult to put on quickly. Thanks!

 

These are the last pair I purchased for myself - used them this past winter a number of times and have had no issues with them. I'm happy with them.

 

Amazon.com: Crampons for Hiking Boots - 19 Non-Slip Spikes for Men and Women - Ice Cleats for Shoes and Boots – Best for Traction on Snow and Ice - Snow Grips - Fits Size 9-11 : Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry

[SailorPaulH]

2 minutes ago, SailorPaulH said:

 

These are the last pair I purchased for myself - used them this past winter a number of times and have had no issues with them. I'm happy with them.

 

Amazon.com: Crampons for Hiking Boots - 19 Non-Slip Spikes for Men and Women - Ice Cleats for Shoes and Boots – Best for Traction on Snow and Ice - Snow Grips - Fits Size 9-11 : Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry

I forgot to add that I also used these on some gravel, granular, volcanic slopes in Iceland last September for parts of a climb and they worked for that also.

[Azulann]

Thank you so much for the trip report and the pictures.  Winter in Norway looks so clean cold and lovely.... from afar. I live in a a very cold climate.

Love your  Northern Light pictures  that you took.

[janetcbl]

57 minutes ago, SailorPaulH said:

 

These are the last pair I purchased for myself - used them this past winter a number of times and have had no issues with them. I'm happy with them.

 

Amazon.com: Crampons for Hiking Boots - 19 Non-Slip Spikes for Men and Women - Ice Cleats for Shoes and Boots – Best for Traction on Snow and Ice - Snow Grips - Fits Size 9-11 : Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry

Thanks! They look like they will work beautifully.

[uktog]

13 hours ago, janetcbl said:

Thanks! They look like they will work beautifully.

I think I need to perfect the standing on one leg actions that moving things on and off will need.  One bus driver in Tromso was so paranoid he was checking the bottom of my walking pole to check it was "safe for his bus' (it was)