‘Just Back’ from 31-Day South American Cruise on the Oosterdam.

[GeorgeCharlie]

On 2/20/2023 at 6:28 PM, powlan said:

Dawn and I were on this cruise and wanted to definitely take home a penguin. When we arrived in Buenos Aires for a couple of days we spent the day in the hotel watching Argentina defeat France in the World Cup. Then flew to NY to see the Christmas Spectacular at Radio City Music Hall with the Rockettes. Got caught in the snowstorm, couldn't get out and the hotel gouged us for another night ($600) but it was Christmas and we couldn't find any place. So we sucked it in and filed a claim on our credit card and they reimbursed us. Alaska felt bad and they flew us back to SFO first class. And the cruise? We had a Signature suite which was very comfortable but our friends stayed in a Pinnacle suite which was nice but very much out of our financial comfort level. Looking forward to the April cruise from FLL to Montreal.

 

We were lucky in regards to the weather coming back home. We came back through Montreal before the bad snow conditions made it that far and made it into Edmonton after the storm had passed by. Edmonton didn't get much snow, but it was bloody cold (-40). The people picking us up said they were watching the arrivals board and our flight was the only one on time. Sometimes you get lucky.😎

 

We've stayed in Signature suites before and agree they are a nice size. We've never considered a Pinnacle suite as they're well out of our price range. Have been offered upgrades to Neptune, but never felt the value was there. 

[GeorgeCharlie]

13 hours ago, seeriteR said:

Following all your reviews. We will be arriving in Ushuaia on 17 March when doing your cruise in reverse!

 

Are you also doing at 31-day cruise?

 

I'm sure you'll have a great cruise - please let us know how it went.

[DCThunder]

10 minutes ago, GeorgeCharlie said:

 

Are you also doing at 31-day cruise?

 

I'm sure you'll have a great cruise - please let us know how it went.

Y'all were there in late spring/early summer, we'll be there in late summer/early autumn.  It will be interesting to see how the weather compares.  And yes, many of us on the March 10 sailing are doing 31 days back to FLL.

[AKJonesy]

My husband wants to do this cruise from Miami and I said no way.  We did the Buenos Aires down to Antarctica and up to Santiago and it was a great trip PRIOR TO PANDEMIC when there was still full staffing and more enrichment opportunities.  We have sailed now a number of times post pandemic and the cut backs are significant.  So much so that on our recent San Diego to FLL through the Panama Canal two week trip I could not wait to get off the ship.  I vowed that we would not sail UNLESS it was a port heavy cruise.  At least that way I have some entertainment to look forward to.  The good ol days before the pandemic and cut backs...I long for those.  Thank you for sharing your pics and story and I will continue to read on as you post.  

[seeriteR]

On 2/23/2023 at 8:53 AM, GeorgeCharlie said:

 

Are you also doing at 31-day cruise?

 

I'm sure you'll have a great cruise - please let us know how it went.

Yes, along with a few folks who have posted here. My wife and I leave Monday for Rio and a 12 day land trip before boarding the Oosterdam for 31 days on her return to FLL. Really looking forward to it and experiencing SA and the Canal for the first time. We have a great Roll Call going and thanks to your posts and pictures, we are more aware of what to expect. Thank you!

[PennerB]

Loved your post. What tour did you book 

please share fredericos contact info

barb penner

[GeorgeCharlie]

3 hours ago, PennerB said:

Loved your post. What tour did you book 

please share fredericos contact info

barb penner

Hi Barb - see post #119

 

Frederico is very flexible regarding itinerary, including dropping you off at the "End of the World" train station, then picking you up at the other end, and taking you on to see the "End of the Highway".🤠

[GeorgeCharlie]

3 hours ago, PennerB said:

Loved your post. What tour did you book 

please share fredericos contact info

barb penner

 

By the way - welcome to Cruise Critic - the most valuable research source for DIY cruisers.😎

[GeorgeCharlie]

On our way back to Ushuaia, Frederico decided to take a quick side trip to see an area where he always goes when he's looking for some solitude.

 

The trail leads up to a set of rapids (Cascada del río Pipo).

(Internet picture)

 

We only walked a short distance up the trail and did not see the rapids, but it's easy to see why people enjoy coming to the area.

 

 

 

The dead trees in the background are the result of beaver dams.

[GeorgeCharlie]

We travelled beside the "End of the World" train tracks for a short distance before getting back to Hwy 3.

 

And we managed to see the train heading back to the station.

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

On the way back, we did a quick visit to the Ushuaia Golf Club to get some souvenirs. The Pro Shop was supposed to be closed by the time we would get there, but thankfully for us, Frederico called them and they agreed to wait for us.   

 

8th/17th tee box.

 

The End of the World Train station was just across the road, so we stopped in to have a quick look.

 

 

Inside most of the people were watching a FIFA World Cup playoff game, which Argentine was playing in.

 

 

When we stopped at the station, we were approached by several couples from the cruise who were anxiously trying to find a ride back to the ship. Apparently, they had taken taxis out, in order to take a trip on the train and now found out, with most everything coming to a stop while the game was on - no one would come and get them.

 

Unfortunately, we were not planning on heading back the ship right then, nor did we have room for all of them. Frederico said they shouldn't have a problem getting back, as the game was close to ending and taxis would quickly come, plus there were likely some already inside the station watching the game.😉

 

 

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

After the golf/train stop, we then drove up to the lookout point on the road up to the Martial Glacier.

 

View looking towards the airport.

 

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

On our drive we saw quite a few houses being built, which is indicative of the growing economy. Frederico said the building regulations are fairly loose, which is likely why there are so many different building methods.

 

Concrete with metal studs.  

 

Concrete with concrete blocks.

 

Metal siding and wood siding.

 

The only dwelling I noticed which had security bars on its window.

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

 

Frederico proudly pointed out this car to us, saying it was a Ushuaia car.

 

 

From his comments, we thought the car was being made in Ushuaia. But on checking, the car is a Ushuaia ED Limited Edition electric Smart Fortwo, made in France. It is co-branded for the Spanish Palladium Hotel Group and named for their Ushuaia Ibiza Beach Resort, on the island of Ibiza, in the Mediterranean Sea. 

[GeorgeCharlie]

A couple of miscellaneous pictures.

 

Frederico showing off his Argentine FIFA Team shirt, which I understand was, at that time, very difficult to get.

 

The Monumento Antiguos Pobladores de Ushuaia (The Monument to the Pioneers and Old Settlers)

 

This white stone monument is a tribute to the Pioneer Settlers of Ushuaia. It appears different based on your position.  From the front it depicts Ushuaia with mountain slopes transformed into an albatross with wings outstretched. From the sides it looks like a giant wave with scenes of farming and industry. Different sequences of history are displayed around the sculpture. What a beautiful tribute honoring the history of Ushuaia.

[GeorgeCharlie]

I didn’t check into it, but I wonder if the monument notes that Ushuaia was originally settled by British missionaries, following previous British surveys. The city was originally named by early British missionaries, using the native Yámana name for the area. The first Argentine citizens was a couple who were brought in to teach at the school.

[GeorgeCharlie]

Before leaving Ushuaia, I would like to remark on the local - very much “in your face” attitude -  towards the Malvinas (Falkland) Islands.

It seems wherever you go there are signs, like these two located by the "End of the Highway" sign, which are representative of the local feelings towards these islands.

 

Although the official motto is "Ushuaia, end of the world, beginning of everything" - the local people have another moniker: “Argentina's capital of the Malvinas”. 

 

There are references to the islands everywhere; on billboards, street names, along with plaza and building names.

(Internet Picture)

This city saw the invasion of the Falkland (Malvinas) Islands from a very close distance.

 

Indeed, it was from Ushuaia that many soldiers left to fight 40 years ago, hoping to turn the page on history and claim the Falkland Islands - or the Malvinas - from the British.

And it was from Ushuaia that the cruiser General Belgrano set sail, only to be torpedoed by the British, on 2 May 1982, killing more than 300 Argentinians.

A couple of hours drive away is Rio Grande - the city from which Argentina's air fleet took off.

The deep local feeling was portrayed in a monumental work on Islas Malvinas Square.

(Internet Picture)

The memorial site includes a lawn of artificial grass, a large sculpture mural, a mast, a shrine and a cenotaph which spans for almost 20 meters and whose flame burns 24/7.

The Wall of remembrance contain the names of the 649 Argentine servicemen who were killed in the attempted liberation of the Islas Malvinas in 1982.
 

From a young age, the Malvinas are part of the school curriculum - and talk of modern-day colonialism a part of peoples' lives.

There's even a book given to primary school children which in English translates as Pipino the Penguin, the Monster and the Malvinas. It tells the story of a blue monster arriving on the islands in a pirate ship with British flags and driving off the animals there. Despite Pipino's best attempts, the monster remains in the cave by the end of the book.

(Internet Picture)

(Internet Picture)

Whilst most kids in the world are taught nursery rhymes, kids in Argentina are taught “Las Malvinas son Argentinas”, as a simple rhyme to repeat - which I understand is commonly used as a chant at the start of school days for some grades.

“Las Malvinas son Argentinas” translates to “The Falklands are Argentine”.
 

With our next stop being the Falkland Islands, I was interested to see what the local attitude would be like there. Especially, considering a total of 255 British servicemen and three female civilians were killed liberating the Falklands. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DCThunder]

7 minutes ago, GeorgeCharlie said:

Before leaving Ushuaia, I would like to remark on the local - very much “in your face” attitude -  towards the Malvinas (Falkland) Islands.

It seems wherever you go there are signs, like these two located by the "End of the Highway" sign, which are representative of the local feelings towards these islands.

 

Although the official motto is "Ushuaia, end of the world, beginning of everything" - the local people have another moniker: “Argentina's capital of the Malvinas”. 

 

There are references to the islands everywhere; on billboards, street names, along with plaza and building names.

(Internet Picture)

This city saw the invasion of the Falkland (Malvinas) Islands from a very close distance.

 

Indeed, it was from Ushuaia that many soldiers left to fight 40 years ago, hoping to turn the page on history and claim the Falkland Islands - or the Malvinas - from the British.

And it was from Ushuaia that the cruiser General Belgrano set sail, only to be torpedoed by the British, on 2 May 1982, killing more than 300 Argentinians.

A couple of hours drive away is Rio Grande - the city from which Argentina's air fleet took off.

The deep local feeling was portrayed in a monumental work on Islas Malvinas Square.

(Internet Picture)

The memorial site includes a lawn of artificial grass, a large sculpture mural, a mast, a shrine and a cenotaph which spans for almost 20 meters and whose flame burns 24/7.

The Wall of remembrance contain the names of the 649 Argentine servicemen who were killed in the attempted liberation of the Islas Malvinas in 1982.
 

From a young age, the Malvinas are part of the school curriculum - and talk of modern-day colonialism a part of peoples' lives.

There's even a book given to primary school children which in English translates as Pipino the Penguin, the Monster and the Malvinas. It tells the story of a blue monster arriving on the islands in a pirate ship with British flags and driving off the animals there. Despite Pipino's best attempts, the monster remains in the cave by the end of the book.

(Internet Picture)

(Internet Picture)

Whilst most kids in the world are taught nursery rhymes, kids in Argentina are taught “Las Malvinas son Argentinas”, as a simple rhyme to repeat - which I understand is commonly used as a chant at the start of school days for some grades.

“Las Malvinas son Argentinas” translates to “The Falklands are Argentine”.
 

With our next stop being the Falkland Islands, I was interested to see what the local attitude would be like there. Especially, considering a total of 255 British servicemen and three female civilians were killed liberating the Falklands. 

Thank you for this post.  I find it very interesting and will be curious to see the British side of the issue when you get to the Falklands. Did you sense any animosity between Argentina and Chile given that those two countries have an interesting history going back into the 19th century.

[GeorgeCharlie]

1 minute ago, DCThunder said:

Thank you for this post.  I find it very interesting and will be curious to see the British side of the issue when you get to the Falklands. Did you sense any animosity between Argentina and Chile given that those two countries have an interesting history going back into the 19th century.

 

I did not broach the relationship between any of the countries, although I had the feeling locals valued tourism to much to raise the subject on their own - especially the guides.

 

As a bit of an interesting side note: At the End of the World post office, I tried to purchase a souvenir magnet which depicted the Malvinas and when I went to pay for it, the clerk refused payment. I don't understand Spanish, but from what I could make of it, he was so happy I was buying something regarding the Malvinas, he just wanted to give it to me.🙂

 

The Magnet.

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

 A view of the Ushuaia area as we were departing.

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

Passing Puerto Williams, Chile, as the sun was setting.

[GeorgeCharlie]

By early the next morning, we were offshore from Cape Horn.

 

The Chilean Navy Station is on the left side, with the famous Monument in the right background.

 

 

 

 

Cape Horn marks the start of the Drake Passage. 

 

With its infamous for churning seas and wicked winds, this passage is one of the apex predators of the maritime world. It’s believed that more than 10,000 seamen have perished “rounding the horn.” The sculpture was designed by Chilean sculptor José Balcells Eyquem in 1992 and depicts an albatross in flight—the seafaring symbol for souls lost at sea.

 

There are two marble slabs on the path to the monument. One with the dedication and the other with a poem by Sara Vial.

(Internet Picture)

Which translates into:

I am the albatross that awaits you
At the end of the world.
I am the forgotten souls of dead mariners
Who passed Cape Horn
From all the oceans of the world.
But they did not die
In the furious waves.
Today they sail on my wings
Toward eternity,
In the last crack
Of the Antarctic winds. 

 

The monument is 7 meters (23 feet) high and consists of two independent pieces, each made of five steel plates. It was built to withstand wind gusts up to 200 kmh (125 mph).

 

Unfortunately, in November 2014, the monument was damaged by strong winds.

(Internet Picture)

 

After having the ship rotate 360 degrees, so everyone had a chance to view the site, we then headed back north - on our way to the Falkland Islands.

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

 

“WE MADE IT ASHORE”😎😎

 

For us, having Falklands on a South American cruise itinerary was mandatory, and I’m sure we were not the only ones onboard who were concerned as to whether we would be able to make it ashore.

 

It ended up being a fairly nice day, with scattered clouds and an odd shower passing through.

 

Oosterdam at anchor, with Stanley in the background.

 

Of course, getting to see penguins was the main reason we wanted to visit the islands.

 

And we got to see them in all kinds of shapes and colours!!!!

 

 

A chick still wearing its winter coat.

 

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

 

We were very fortunate in being able to book Falkland Helicopter Services for a tour of the Islands, as it greatly enhanced our experience in seeing (and learning) about penguins and the Islands as a whole.

 

Bill & Tom beside the Robertson R44 helicopter.

For reference in size, both Tom & Bill are well over 6 feet tall.

 

The helicopter tour meant, rather than taking over two hours by 4x4 vehicle to get to Volunteer Point, by helicopter it would only take about 20 minutes.

 

In addition, with our tour scheduled to leave at 10:30am, we didn’t need to be in any big rush trying to catch a tender. 

 

Plus, you get a different view of the landscape from above.

 

Edited March 1, 2023 by GeorgeCharlie

[GeorgeCharlie]

With lots of time before our tour was to depart, we decided to go ashore and have a leisurely look around.

 

The first thing we noticed was some sea lions sunning themselves on a nearby floating dock.

 

 

 

It appeared to be a male, with a harem of six females. We were told the females were most likely pregnant.

 

Later in the day, we notice his harem had almost doubled in size.