‘Just Back’ from 31-Day South American Cruise on the Oosterdam.

[GeorgeCharlie]

About halfway between Puerto Chacabuco and Coyhaique, the capital city of Coyhaique Province and the Aysén Region of Chile, on the border of the Simpson River National Reserve is the waterfall of the Virgin (Cascada de Virgin) whose name derives from the grotto of the Virgin Mary that is next to it, and which is a place of pilgrimage for the inhabitants of the area. 

 

It is a double waterfall, not all that tall, but still very pretty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

While on our tour we noticed long rows of split wood.

 

Apparently, wood is still the main heating source for the area, as there is no petroleum based source available which is economically viable for residential use. 

 

Also noticed several subdivisions of what appeared to be new housing, which showed the regional economy must be doing very good - especially in light of the economy of Southern Chile as a whole.

 

 

The regional economy focuses on the exploitation and processing of marine, mining, forestry, and animal resources. Aquaculture is also an important activity and the region contributes 80% of Chile's salmon output.

 

An industrial park, devoted mainly to producing frozen and, to a lesser extent, canned, products has developed around Puerto Chacabuco, Puerto Aisén, and Puerto Cisnes.

 

Mining based on deposits of zinc, gold, and silver, it is significant in regional exports. As is the production of yard timber, plywood, and panels for furniture, all which is mostly geared to export markets - along with beef cattle, sheep, and sheep's wool, part of which is exported.

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

The next two day were sea days. They were to be highlighted with the scenic cruising through the Chilean Fjords and Sarmiento Channel.

 

The weather mainly consisted of low clouds, but on occasion, the clouds would lift and we'd get to see some of the scenery. 

 

 

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

Our next port of call was Punta Arenas, Chile.

 

It was another tender port.

 

It was a short tender ride to the dock and the long blue building with the skylights is the terminal.

 

The Viking Jupiter was also at anchor and the Viking Polaris was tied up at the dock. More about the Polaris later.

 

 

 

Right outside the port gates is a vintage clock. This is not just a clock, but an entire weather station. They show not only the time, but also the pressure and humidity of the air. Made of cast iron.

 

There is a fairly large souvenir store located at the gates, plus it's only 2, or 3 blocks to the main downtown shopping area. 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

The most popular tour in Punta Arenas seemed to be the ferry/boat trip out to Magdalena Island. The largest penguin colonies of South Chile are on this island, including an estimated 60,000 breeding pairs of the Magellanic penguin. The people we talked to who went to the island, said they had a great time.

 

We decided to go in the other direction and took the ship's tour to see Fort Bulnes. 

 

Fuerte Bulnes is a Chilean fort located by the Strait of Magellan, 62 km south of Punta Arenas. It was founded in 1843 on a rocky hill at Punta Santa Ana, and named after President Manuel Bulnes Prieto.

 

The fort was built to further the president's colonization policies in Southern Chile and protect the Strait of Magellan. He directed construction to ward off claims by other nations. They arrived at Punta Santa Ana on September 21, 1843 and decided to construct a fort using mainly logs and dirt and grass 'bricks'.

 

Although the president wanted to establish a town, the harsh weather prevented attracting a large and stable population. As a result, after six years, the local governor founded Punta Arenas in the Sandy Point area in 1848. Once people had migrated there, military forces abandoned and destroyed the fort. 

 

Between 1941 and 1943, the government directed the fort to be reconstructed as a historic monument. The replica includes the church, chaplain's quarters, jail, powder magazine, post office and stables. It was declared a national monument in 1968. Today, it is administered by a private company.

 

It took about an hour to drive out to the fort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The small museum in one of the buildings is easily missed and very forgettable!

 

 

 

After some 80 years, some of the building are showing deterioration.

 

It was most obvious in the museum where extensive bracing has been installed to support the roof & walls. 

 

There is a short path over to a lookout by the shore.

 

On the way you pass a small monument marking the location.

 

 

Along with another monument at the lookout.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 16, 2023 by GeorgeCharlie

[GeorgeCharlie]

On the way back to Punta Arenas, we stopped at the Parque del Estrecho de Magallanes (Magellan Strait Park) entrance, where there is a fairly new Visitor Center.

 

Park entrance gate and parking area.

 

The Visitor Centre has a interactive museum, coffee shop and gift store. 

 

Although the gift store does not look like it has reopened, but the coffee shop was.

 

Sign at the entrance to the complex.

 

Some pictures from the museum.

 

 

 

 

Including a room-spanning video presentation.

 

 

 

 

 

[FlaviaOfTheMonth]

We were on the Oosterdam cruise two after yours, which included Antarctica as well as many of your ports. We had no real staffing issues but the food was terrible. We've started reconsidering whether longer cruises like this even make sense with HAL now as it is very hard to maintain a reasonable diet if the food is both bad and repetitive. The salad bar was the only real savior and even it was kind of sad on some days. I know this is not all HAL's fault but it still impacts future decisions.

[GeorgeCharlie]

2 hours ago, FlaviaOfTheMonth said:

We were on the Oosterdam cruise two after yours, which included Antarctica as well as many of your ports. We had no real staffing issues but the food was terrible. We've started reconsidering whether longer cruises like this even make sense with HAL now as it is very hard to maintain a reasonable diet if the food is both bad and repetitive. The salad bar was the only real savior and even it was kind of sad on some days. I know this is not all HAL's fault but it still impacts future decisions.

 

Yes, we certainly agree with you. We currently have our name in for the 2024 Grand Africa, but are seriously questioning whether HAL will be up to expectations by then - especially in the areas of food and entertainment.

[GeorgeCharlie]

Now some comments for the people who may not be aware of tragic situation regarding the Viking Polaris and why it was in Punta Arenas, Chile, rather then Ushuaia, Argentina, where it normally sailed from.

 

 

First, some details about the Polaris. She is the second of Viking's Polar Class expedition ships, with a passenger capacity of 378 people. She received her name in a September 30, 2022 ceremony in Amsterdam and then set out on a 35-night voyage to Ushuaia, Argentina where she was to spend her maiden season in Antarctica, a destination for which she was designed.

 

She arrived in Ushuaia in early November 2022 and then on November 28, the Viking Polaris deployed a Zodiac boat with six guests and one crew member near Damoy Point, Antarctica. On this trip a guest sustained a serious but non-life-threatening leg injury while on board the Zodiac and was taken to the medical center on the Viking Polaris. Following a detailed diagnosis by the ship's medical team, the decision was taken for the ship to immediately sail to Ushuaia so that the guest could receive additional medical care from a shore-based hospital.

 

The following day, November 29th, while crossing infamous Drake Passage, the ship was hit by a massive "rouge wave" which did significant damage to some of the cabins. As reported  "This wave hit it and came over and literally broke through windows and just washed into these rooms, and not only did it wash into the rooms, but it broke walls down, and once some walls went into the next room"

 

The following day, it was revealed that Sheri Zhu, 62, died after she was struck by the broken glass from a shattered window. Zhu and her husband David, were from Houston, Texas.

 

Four other people were also injured.

 

An Internet picture showing the damaged windows.

 

Subsequently, the Polaris was moved over to Punta Arenas for repairs and apparently later in December went back to Ushuaia to continue her Antarctic sailings.

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

About an hour after we were to depart Punta Arenas, and while we were still at anchor, the Captain announced they had received an error message on the ship's condition and we would not be departing until they solved the problem.

 

He also announced that heavy seas were expected during our overnight sailing and to "batten-down the hatches" as such, by making sure anything which may fall off tables/desks were safely stored and to be very careful when we were walking about the ship.

 

After about 3 1/2 hours they managed to fix the problem and we got underway. Overnight we did not notice anything other then an odd rolling when passing through some swells.

 

The weather the next day while cruising the Beagle Channel was much better then when we went through the Chilean Fjords a few days earlier. It was mainly scattered clouds so we managed to get great views of "Glacier Alley", which is a series of five glaciers—which are named Holanda, Italia, Francia, Alemania and Romanche.

Our sailing through Glacier Alley was adjusted due to having to make up time because of our delay leaving Punta Arenas. We just cruised by each glacier at full speed (20+ kts). Heard a number of people complaining that the ship did not slow down while passing the glaciers, nor turn the ship so cabins on both side of the ship got to see the glaciers. Fortunately, our cabin was on the side where the glaciers were, so we could just sit in the comfort of our cabin and then quickly jump out on our veranda to take pictures. Cruising along at 20+ kts and 10C temperature is rather chilly!!

 

Again, Jim McParland did a great presentation on the Beagle Channel and the glaciers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

A quick video clip of one of the glaciers.

 

 

[seeriteR]

Very Cool (literally!) Nice video. Can't wait for our March sailing thru this area. Hoping there is still some glacier left for us to see since there appears to be an amazing amount of meltwater runoff in that waterfall!

[Ellencruise]

Wow just wow, can’t wait

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

2 hours ago, seeriteR said:

Very Cool (literally!) Nice video. Can't wait for our March sailing thru this area. Hoping there is still some glacier left for us to see since there appears to be an amazing amount of meltwater runoff in that waterfall!

 

By the time you see it March, I would expect the water discharge will be much higher, as it is well into their summertime. 

[powlan]

Dawn and I were on this cruise and wanted to definitely take home a penguin. When we arrived in Buenos Aires for a couple of days we spent the day in the hotel watching Argentina defeat France in the World Cup. Then flew to NY to see the Christmas Spectacular at Radio City Music Hall with the Rockettes. Got caught in the snowstorm, couldn't get out and the hotel gouged us for another night ($600) but it was Christmas and we couldn't find any place. So we sucked it in and filed a claim on our credit card and they reimbursed us. Alaska felt bad and they flew us back to SFO first class. And the cruise? We had a Signature suite which was very comfortable but our friends stayed in a Pinnacle suite which was nice but very much out of our financial comfort level. Looking forward to the April cruise from FLL to Montreal.

[GeorgeCharlie]

At about noon on December 13th, we arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina, which is a very interesting area to visit.

Ushuaia is located on the shores of the Beagle Channel, surrounded by the mountain range of the Martial Glacier, in the Bay of Ushuaia. Besides being an administrative center, it is a light industrial port and tourist hub.

The dock is located adjacent to the middle of the town and most of the downtown area is reasonably easy to walk to.

 

Although we did not visit it, we were told the main souvenir shops are located a few blocks from the pier at the Paseo de los Artesanos Enriqueta Gastelumendi (Artisan's fair of Ushuaia).

(Internet picture)

This promenade of nearly 50 brightly colored artisan stalls and workshops is the place to pick up a memento of your visit to the “end of the world.” Ceramics, paintings, leather goods, textiles, and paintings crafted by local artists are offered. The handcrafted woolen clothing sold here is some of the finest available in the region.

(Internet picture)

As a sidenote - I have heard of people trying to find souvenirs of Cape Horn - seeing Ushuaia is the closest port. Cape Horn is located in Chile, so you’ll not likely have much luck finding any in Argentina.

 

And, I’d definitely suggest not asking for Falkland Islands souvenirs while you’re there either!!😡

 

The information we were given is that Ushuaia, in general, is very safe with regard to crime. You needn’t worry about your personal safety while visiting here. The locals are welcoming and friendly to visitors and rarely are there are reports of any inappropriate or criminal behavior. 

 

Our guide pointed out local residents feel very secure in that they have open yards at their homes and will leave items sitting outside without any concerns. Especially, in contrast with other cities in Argentina, where people have to barricade their homes from thieves.

Poverty and unemployment are basically nonexistent, with many businesses always looking for workers.

Ushuaia's industrial sector, led by the Grundig Renacer electronics factory, is among the largest in Patagonia, and helps give Ushuaia the highest average salaries in Argentina. Of course, living costs are also high because so much has to be imported, but in compensation it has very low tax rates, including duty-free shopping.

 

With Argentina having a very self promoting attitude, they are always claiming Ushuaia is located at the “End of the World”, on the southern most tip of South America. Along with being the southernmost city in the world.

In reality, Ushuaia is located at the Southern most part of Argentina, on the island of Tierra del Fuego, which in turn, is divided between Chile and Argentina. There are many more islands located further south within the same archipelago, but Argentina seems to not consider those islands as part of the world, as they are owned by Chile. 

The “southernmost” slogan is promoted by three communities in this area. First, is Punta Arenas (130,000), Chile, as being the southernmost city on mainland South America, then Ushuaia (80,000), Argentina, as the southernmost city, and finally, Puerto Williams (3,000), Chile, as the southernmost town.

 

So, take your pick.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 22, 2023 by GeorgeCharlie

[GeorgeCharlie]

Now, on to our tour.

 

We had arranged for a tour with a local guide (Frederico) who has a nice Mercedes’s van. Although, we did not require it, his van is also wheelchair equipped. 

Frederico and his van.

 

All tour operators have access to the pier, so Frederico was waiting for us as we came down the gangway and we were able to quickly get underway.

 

We headed first to the “End of the World Post Office", hoping to get there before all the big tour buses.

 

It is located in the Tierra Del Fuego National Park – well somewhat!

 

You must pay an entry fee. Although US dollars are normally accepted in Ushuaia, the Park fee must be paid in pesos.

 

The story about how this “Post Office” came about - is a book in itself.😉 

 

Briefly, from what I can gather, is the guy who started it was a retired teacher from Buenos Aires, who settled on the Island of Redonda – about 2km from the shore – and took up a job at the post office, which closed in 1997. 

Then he decided to create a novelty post office, as far south in Argentina as possible, mainly as a "End of the World" tourist attraction. He thought this location would be a good place, as many tourists would go by it on the way to see the end of the Pan-American Highway, plus several hiking trails also started from this location. 

So, he set up his metal shed fake post office. Along came the authorities who told him he could not build in the park without permission.

Then he decided, by stretching logic a bit, that they could not stop him from building over the water, which is what he did - along with creating his own micro-nation, the “Independent Republic of Redonda”.

Of course, there has been a bureaucratic catfight ever since. Mainly, it seems they have decided he’s harmless enough – plus he attracts tourists – which are a significant contributor to the local economy. 

 

 

At the "End of the world post office” you can send a post-card and have a stamp put in your passport (please note: this is officially not allowed and may well invalidate your passport).

 

 

A picture from the Internet showing someone’s official passport stamped with his unofficial logo stamp.

 

In addition, he will sell you valid Argentine stamps for your postcard and accept them as mail, but to actually mail them, he must take them to a post office in Ushuaia – which may take a fairly long time – if ever!

 

A sign on his pier.

 

The front of the building.

 

 

[cunnorl]

 Really enjoying your posts. We are booked on the Grand Samerica/Antartica trip in October.  Quick question- do you have the contact info for Frederico ? Thanks!

[GeorgeCharlie]

56 minutes ago, cunnorl said:

 Really enjoying your posts. We are booked on the Grand Samerica/Antartica trip in October.  Quick question- do you have the contact info for Frederico ? Thanks!

 

You can contact Frederico at: ananturismo (@) gmail (.) com

[seeriteR]

Following all your reviews. We will be arriving in Ushuaia on 17 March when doing your cruise in reverse!

[GeorgeCharlie]

At the post office location there is parking for people who want to take some of the hiking trails.

 

I believe these vehicles are likely from people who are driving the Pan-American Highway.

 

 

The sign at the start of one of the trails. It shows the trail is about 8km (5 miles) long.

 

Some information signs highlighting the original inhabitants of the area. 

 

 

 

 

Pictures of the bay, taken from the start of the hiking trail. The snow capped mountains are located on Chilean islands south of Ushuaia and the tree covered island in front of them is the Redonda island, which is in Argentina.

 

 

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

Then we headed over to Lake Acigami, another popular hiking area.

 

 

 

Lake Acigami (also known as Lake Roca) in Argentina and Lake Errázuriz in Chile, is a body of water on the large island of Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia. It has the distinction of being divided North-South by the border between Argentina and Chile, with most of the lake being in Chile.

 

Some brave people enjoying the spring weather.

 

Also more campers.

 

The Tierra del Fuego National Park is one of the best birding routes. It combines forest, and views of the Beagle Channel, offering the chance to see a wide range of species. The park alone has some 90 species of birds, including the Andean condor.

 

Didn't notice any condors and these were about the largest birds we saw.

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

While we were at the lake, Frederico showed us numerous stumps of trees taken down by beavers.

 

 

In 1946, the Argentine military flew 20 beavers from Canada to Tierra del Fuego in hopes of encouraging a fur trade. The industry never flourished, but the beavers did: There are as many as 110,000 today. The industrious creatures, without any natural predators, have spread to Chile and to the Argentine and Chilean mainlands, leaving dead forests and stagnant ponds in their wake.

 

With the Canadian beavers being generally hated in this area, it's likely best to not mention you're Canadian.🤠

[GeorgeCharlie]

Next stop was the end of the Pan-American highway.

 

The sign marking the official southern end, or start - of the highway. 

 

Sign showing the location (bottom left corner) of where the highway ends in relation to Argentina's portion of the Great Island of Tierra del Fuego.

 

From there you can take a walkway out to see Lapataia Bay, which is the end of South America - at least according to the Argentines.🙃

 

 

 

They were in the process of rebuilding the walkway and from the looks of it, the new deck is made out of composite material.

 

View from the end of the walkway.

 

[GeorgeCharlie]

When we arrived in the parking lot at the "End of the Highway", we noticed we were lucky in that none of the big tour busses were there, just a few vans like Frederico's.

 

When we first got there a small rain shower was passing through and that's when we had another surprise from Frederico. He served us hot coffee/tea, along with several local pastries, which was greatly enjoyed by all of four of us.

 

From the lighter side - I had to laugh at their washrooms.

 

The sign on the door.

 

To the unique method of flushing the urinal. 

 

Water is gravity fed from a holding tank on the roof.