Amazon & Caribbean Adventure, February, 2023 Report with Iberostar Grand Amazon River Cruise after Viking

[TayanaLorna]

2023 was the first year since Covid that Viking sailed this itinerary up the Amazon River.  The Viking Sea did 2 round trips between San Juan, PR and Manaus, Brazil consisting of 4 separate cruises.  Our cruise was from San Juan to Manaus with an additional week on a smaller river boat further up the river and a stay in Manaus.  I will describe our different stops, the excursions we took and provide some general information for those interested in this itinerary for 2024.  I won't be able to complete this report in one sitting but will add days as I am able.  I welcome your comments and questions.

 

San Juan

We live in Puerto Rico so getting to the ship on a Sunday morning was a breeze.  We checked in at the port before Noon and the terminal was empty.  The Viking pre extension buses began arriving shortly after noon so we beat the crowds.  Soon we were having lunch at the World Cafe and happy to hear all the rooms were ready shortly after 1 pm.  Friends from Chicago area flew in the day before arriving at the airport mid afternoon.  They stayed at the Airport Hotel and took an Uber to The Waterfront Restaurant in Pinones for a fabulous meal of local food on a deck right along the Atlantic Ocean.  Next morning they took a cab to the port checking in before noon also.  I suggested the airport hotel and the restaurant since all they wanted to do is arrive a day early in case of weather, eat, sleep and get to the port.  Hotel was less then $200 a night.

 

Having guided our own guests through Old San Juan, we skipped tours and instead I had a nice massage and we took a walk along the waterfront by the cruise port to stretch our legs before sail away.  Sail away was amazing as we had been inside Old San Juan many times but not on the water looking in.  In fact being local and knowing the North coast we had a great time identifying where friends live and the different islands off the East side of PR.  I don't think anyone on board enjoyed the sail away as much as we did.  

 

 

[TayanaLorna]

Antigua

 

Our first stop was Antigua.  Although we had been to Antigua many times when we lived aboard and cruised our own sailboat, the Lorna Doone, we had only been to coastal towns and ancho.ages and never driven across island or through the interior.  So we chose the Sugar Plantation of Antigua and Nelson's Dockyard.  It was okay.  Some in our group said meh but I enjoyed it because I was able to see where the real people lived, some of the sugar history and was able to visit a former haunt of ours Nelson's Dockyard plus the lobster lunch was pretty darn good.

 

We visited an old church and graveyard dating to the 1800's.  The delicate wood ceiling in the church came from a ship.  Have no idea how they got it up there.  We drove through typical neighborhoods and a fishing village all pretty run down but then the rich and famous all live along the coastline.  Our next stop was Betty's Hope a former sugar plantation with some structures intact but mostly ruins.  It was picturesque however.  Final stop was Nelson's Dockyard, a still in use and very active Georgian boatyard.  After having spent way too much time on the first half of the excursion, our guided tour through the historic boatyard was rushed and disappointing for those who did not know the history.  Lunch was set out on tables outside under an awning and was delightful.  Afterwards we had some time to wander around Nelson's but it absolutely poured.  At least we did not have a catamaran snorkle trip or a day at the beach with rain to spoil it.  People did love the included excursion.

 

 

 

 

[CCWineLover]

Thanks, Lorna, for taking the time to do this very good, thorough, and I'm sure very honest review so far!  Much appreciated!!  Will look forward to the other episodes in this "Cruise Critic Series" 🙂

 

Edited May 5, 2023 by CCWineLover

[TayanaLorna]

Dominica

 

For some reason our cruise stopped in Dominica whereas all the other ones stopped in St. Lucia.  Don't try to figure it out I guess.  We were delighted as Dominica is our favorite Caribbean island and one where we spent weeks exploring on the Lorna Doone.  Our challenge was to explore where we never had before.  We chose the Carib Indians & Natures Hidden Treasures.  My reasoning was we live in the Caribbean but know nothing about the Carib Indians.

 

This optional excursion took us through Rosseau and up to a lookout point and for a brief stop at the botanical gardens.  We visited the gardens on a previous trip but not with a local guide so enjoyed the narrative.  Next we headed cross island and deep into the mountainous interior for a stop at Jacko Falls.  It was a lovely stop and some even braved the crisp clear waters for a swim.  Continuing cross island we held on to our seats at times with some passengers not daring to look into the steep valley along the road.  Our main destination was the Carib indian built eco village along a pretty river where we were treated to a local vegetarian lunch of "provision" - roots and locally grown vegetables with rice and pumpkin.  Delicious!  Following lunch we enjoyed a performance of traditional dances.  Our guide for the trip was a Carib herself and described the benefits of living on Kalingao land.  They now refer to themselves as Kalingao not Carib as the latter carries the negative connotation of canabalism which our guide emphasized they were not.  The Kalingao Territory stretches all along the southeast coast of Domica and is huge.  After the village stop we drove through the territory along the gorgeous Atlantic coast and back cross island to the ship.  It was a long day but the scenery made up for it.  Back on board we had the best sunset of the entire trip and even clearly saw the green flash as the sun disappeared below the horizon.  That evening the first performance of Legends of Guitar was in the Star Theatre.  Wow, were they good!

In the group photo on the ship, my husband Ray and I are on the far left so you know what we look like.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TayanaLorna]

Just now, CCWineLover said:

Thanks, Lorna, for taking the time to do this very good, thorough, and I'm sure very honest review so far!  Much appreciated!!  Will look forward to the other episodes in this "Cruise Critic Series" 🙂

 

Wow, found me already.  Managed 3 ports so far.  Time to make dinner.  Alas no World Cafe or Manfred's tonight.  More tomorrow I hope.

Edited May 5, 2023 by TayanaLorna

[4Mosby]

I was so excited to read your very in-depth review.  We are booked for their cruise January 16 from Puerto Rico. So many questions.  Looking forward to your reviews. 

 

 

[Azulann]

thank you for posting this review. I look forward to future installments. Your pictures are amazing of Dominica. 

 

[TayanaLorna]

Barbados

 

Barbados was a new island for us.  We signed up for the Barbados Photo Adventure hoping it would be off the beaten tourist track.  First we had to get out of the port.  Oh my, there were many huge ships and thousands upon thousands of passengers.  So glad Viking had a shuttle taking us to the cruise terminal but then we had to jostle our way through the crowds, families with screaming kids, passengers dragging luggage all being directed to a narrow opening to get out the door to waiting tour buses.  I could be happy never to visit this terminal again.  We found our guide, a local award winning photograher named Ronnie Carrington.   Our energetic septugenarian announced we were off to parts of Barbados that few visitors ever see.

 

Ronnie was a wealth of information having spent most of his life on Barbados.  We learned so much about how people live(d), the cost of things, why they paint their homes certain colors or not paint their homes at all and about the ongoing construction of the Chattel Houses as families grew.  Photography tips were interspersed with critques of photos taken.  We stopped outside a beautiful plantation home driveway, a small neighborhood with chattel houses, scenic viewpoints and at a park and bar on the Atlantic Ocean.  We had a rum punch at the bar and some fish fritters as well as time to wander the beach park.  Twas a great day.  

 

We had Chef's Table dinner reservations that night where we would meet a couple from the UK who were also taking the Grand Amazon further up the river after we disembarked Viking in Manaus.  I felt like I was fighting off a cold or something respiratory so took a Covid test beforehand not wanting to infect new friends.  Negative fortunately!

 

As far as reports regarding other excursions.  People seemed to like the Viking Included just fine and friends raved about the Tropical Gardens of Barbados optional excursion.  Other friends who took the Submarine excursion said it was awful.  They waited a lot, were packed into the sub like sardines, it was hot with no airflow and no one wore masks.  Two days later he was quarantined with Covid and she tested positive two days after that.

 

 

 

 

[TayanaLorna]

17 hours ago, 4Mosby said:

I was so excited to read your very in-depth review.  We are booked for their cruise January 16 from Puerto Rico. So many questions.  Looking forward to your reviews. 

 

 

I will most likely answer some of your questions about hotel, transfers and private tours in Manaus when I get to that section.

[TayanaLorna]

14 hours ago, Azulann said:

thank you for posting this review. I look forward to future installments. Your pictures are amazing of Dominica. 

 

Thanks.  The photo efforts are both mine and those of my DH.

[TayanaLorna]

Sea Days & General Info

 

We had two dedicated sea days with no sight of land and one scenic cruising day on this voyage.   It was time to enjoy the ship by using the Aquavit Terrace pools, dining outside, using the spa, getting massages, attending Tea at 4 pm, listening to lectures, visiting with friends, joining the Wildlife Watch on the bow, journaling and editing photos.

 

This first sea day, the day after Barbados, was the first time it began to feel hot and very humid.  The 

Caribbean islands so far had always had a breeze or we were out in the mountains where the temps were cooler.  We never had any rolly seas or noticed big waves with salt spray but we found we could not sit outside on our Veranda as the railings, table, chairs, floor were all salt encrusted.  We mentioned this to our room steward who dutifully cleaned our veranda each morning but a few hours later it was once again salt encrusted.  This was our 5th Viking cruise and we never noticed a salty veranda on any other cruise.  We would regularly take room service breakfast out there.  The only cause I could think of is that the air in the Caribbean is very moisture laden and salty.

 

The 2 photos below are in the Wintergarden where we found some interesting lighting from the intricate ceiling reflecting to the furniture.  Another photo is of the resident guitarist, John, who was excellent.  You may not see land on a sea day but there are other vessels out there.  The themed lunches and dessert specialtys are fun on sea days.  Some of my favorite places are Mamsen's for breakfast and the Explorers Lounge.  We affectionately referred to the excellent Naturalist Guest Lecturer, Richard Lovelock, as "the Viking" and the photo below shows why.  We came to the point where when outside, we had to be in water or dining in the shade. 

 

General Viking Info:  Happy to report that there have been absolutely no insects so far.  Sad to report that the guest laundry rooms would be closed following the next day's stop in French Guiana.  I knew about the laundry from previous sailings and got ours done before the mad rush.

 

Edited May 6, 2023 by TayanaLorna

[CCWineLover]

2 hours ago, TayanaLorna said:

Barbados

 

Barbados was a new island for us.  We signed up for the Barbados Photo Adventure hoping it would be off the beaten tourist track.  First we had to get out of the port.  Oh my, there were many huge ships and thousands upon thousands of passengers.  So glad Viking had a shuttle taking us to the cruise terminal but then we had to jostle our way through the crowds, families with screaming kids, passengers dragging luggage all being directed to a narrow opening to get out the door to waiting tour buses.  I could be happy never to visit this terminal again.  We found our guide, a local award winning photograher named Ronnie Carrington.   Our energetic septugenarian announced we were off to parts of Barbados that few visitors ever see.

 

Ronnie was a wealth of information having spent most of his life on Barbados.  We learned so much about how people live(d), the cost of things, why they paint their homes certain colors or not paint their homes at all and about the ongoing construction of the Chattel Houses as families grew.  Photography tips were interspersed with critques of photos taken.  We stopped outside a beautiful plantation home driveway, a small neighborhood with chattel houses, scenic viewpoints and at a park and bar on the Atlantic Ocean.  We had a rum punch at the bar and some fish fritters as well as time to wander the beach park.  Twas a great day.  

 

 

Lorna - I also did the Photo tour.  Ray's pics brought back great memories of Ronnie and his tour.  One of the best tours I've taken on Viking!  Recognize all those spots!  Glad to see he's still going and survived COVID.

 

As for crowds, we were just lucky (February 2019) I guess.  The terminal was pretty empty and we had no crowds - amazing.  Here's a couple shots from the pier of Viking Sea.  I think only 1 other ship was in port and was in a completely different pier.  

 

 

 

[TayanaLorna]

February 25, 2023 Iles De Salut, French Guiana

 

The pilot declared it was safe to anchor and tender to shore.  We were the first cruise ship to be able to stop here and go ashore in two years!  Are we lucky or what?!

 

The Viking Daily delivered to our stateroom the previous evening announced that we were required to book a complimentary self exploration ticket to go ashore.  We were able to do this on our room TV or at Guest Services.  Tender reservations were in 15 minute increments begining at Noon.  Once everyone who had tickets were transported, space was available without a ticket.  Once we completed our circuit of the island and its sites, we were able to take the next tender back to the ship with no reservations required.  The return was problematic as there were long lines and only 2 tenders running.  Fortunately there was seating along the path to the dock where one person could sit and the other stand in line.  Me sit, him stand.  Although photos would have been better in bright sunshine, we were very grateful for the clouds as they kept the temperatures down.  To future cruisers on a sunny day - be sure to wear a wide brimmed hat or bring an umbrella for shade.  Bring lots of water too and there are rest rooms on shore, don't worry.

 

The path to the penal colony ruins was wide, graded and a gradual up.  There were no benches for the heat weary or less mobile guests but you could find a boulder with the lichen and moss worn off from countless derrieres finding a seat.  As one approached the wide path, there was another steep staircase to the right which took one to the top quickly if one so desired.  We walked the gradual path listening to the bird calls and monkey chatter.  There were monkeys all over and close to the path.  Photo opportunities were outstanding no matter your device - camera or cell phone.  Once at the top we saw no monkeys.  They were only in the woods alongside the wide gradual path up.  

 

Nearing the top we passed a cemetary and could see a lighthouse in the distance.  Once at the penal colony ruins, the ground was level but the grass was quite overgrown.  We were concerned about mosquitoes and had sprayed our outer garments with insect repellent.  We saw no mosquitoes even though we stirred the grass up when walking through it.  Personally I was glad as I was able to cool off by tieing my repellent soaked long sleeved shirt around my waist.

 

We had maps showing the paths through the prison grounds, identifying the buildings and assuring us we saw everything.  You really couldn't get lost.

 

Besides the monkeys, we saw a brilliant peacock and some Agouti - a rodent like creature.  We were able to capture on film one young and one adult agouti.  We often heard them scurrying in the leaf litter catching only a glimpse of one so you needed to have a good eye.

 

Most sobering of all the prison facilities were the solitary confinement cells.  One could only imagine what it was like when the solid door to the cell closed and a prisoner was alone in the dark surrounded by noise dampening thick cement walls, floor and ceiling.  Horrifying.  

 

We were on one of the first tenders to shore and spent about two hours exploring.  We walked the easy path down to the tender pier and apparently everyone else had the same idea of wishing to return to the ship.  There was a tender loading when we reached the long line and it took 2 more tenders before we were able to board one.  It was a very slow process as only one tender could dock at a time.  Passengers disembarked and then passengers embarked.  When one tender left the dock another one did not quickly arrive as it was still either off loading or loading passengers at the ship.  

 

So happy once back on board to have a nice cold beer and shower.

 

We had another sea day on February 26 before entering the mouth of the Amazon.  As we neared the huge basin we could see the color of the water change to muddy and observe the current of the outflowing river in the waters surrounding the Viking Sea.  Still not feeling well and fighting that respiratory illness, the day at sea was a welcome rest.  My coughing had become so bad that I was keeping us both up at night.  My DH told me that unless I had marked improvement, we were going to the medical center the next morning.

 

[TayanaLorna]

February 26 - Another Sea Day

February 27 - Macapa Technical Stop and Scenic Amazon Cruising

 

2/26/23

After an active French Guiana self exploration day, I woke up after a poor nights sleep keeping myself and my DH up with my coughing.  A headache usually indicates a fever for me so we were off to the medical center at their earliest opening time.  Vitals taken by a nurse while the doctor listened to my description of symptoms.  Charges were explained and a Covid test was offered with the warning that if I tested positive I would be quarantined for 5 days.  I couldn't believe I was offered a choice given my symptoms.  I said I have to know if I have Covid or not so do it.  I had both a flu test and a Covid test with negative results on both.  I had taken a Covid test that we brought on the cruise and the second negative confirmed no Covid which was a relief.  I was diagnosed with a respiratory infection and acute bronchitis and left with a bag of medications including antibiotics, codeine cough medicine and ibuprofen.  I was happy to have a sea day sleeping, ordering room service and trying to heal.  The codeine cough syrup really helped with the sleeping.  Our room steward was a gem bringing us 3 carafs of water twice daily, providing an extra blanket and stocking our shelf with herbal teas and honey.  I assured her I did not have Covid.

 

For 2 days now the Viking Daily had been filled with warnings, requests and closures.  Guest laundry facilities would be closed.  The Infinity Pool and Hot Tub on the Aquavit Terrace were drained.  The automatic opening doors at both ends of the World Cafe were disabled.  We were able to go to the aft terrace but only by exiting from a side door and walking along the deck.  This was to keep the insects outside I think.  In the hot and humid climate, please aid the AC system by keeping veranda doors tightly shut.  Close stateroom curtains during the dark hours unless you wanted a bug covered veranda when you woke up next morning.  We were also asked to surrender our passports to Guest Services OR be up at 5 AM the next morning to present them to Customs & Immigration when the boarded to clear the ship.

 

That evening we missed the second performance of the Legends of Guitar show by Matt & Lainie.  They were going to showcase different guitarists then the first show.  Although feeling a tad better, I was to a point where I did not want to contact Covid on top of my bronchitis fearing I would surely end up in the hospital if I did.  I was actually much sicker then my friends who did get Covid on board.  There were lots of folks coughing and sneezing.  During our 2 visits to the medical center, lines of people were waiting and we did not see one person agree to a Covid test.  All they wanted was either tylenol or cough syrup since the ship store was closed.

 

Well folks, time has gotten away from me and its time for do dinner prep.  Will continue with Macapa Technical Stop and Scenic Amazon Cruising next edition.  Sorry no photos here.  Well, here is a nice dog seen by DH on his Tapajos Forest Hike in Santarem.  Thanks for your patience.

 

[TayanaLorna]

Macapa, Brazil & Scenic Amazon Cruising

 

Upon rising and opening our stateroom drapes we were treated to a bug and salt free veranda compliments to a heavy rainshower overnight.  Macapa was a technical stop meaning local officials would come on board to complete our clearance into Brazil and the Amazon river as well as taking on local Amazon Pilots who would sail with us to Manaus.  We were anchored or holding position just off Macapa and the Amazon Pilot was already on board.

 

While others took advantage of all the on board activities and lectures, we relaxed and I continued to rest in our stateroom while the Amazon shores passed by.  Some have said that sailing up the Amazon is boring and you don't really see anything.  However, we found the changing shoreline, seeing the different homes, watching all the river traffic and the often dramatic skies fascinating.  The best part was when we spotted some small boats speeding from a goup of homes toward us.  They were mostly boys in boats fitting one or two persons.  Their props were at the end of a very long shaft and very noisy.  They shouted and waved at us taking photos with their cell phones as we took their pictures.  We were surprised that we sailed close to shore much of the time.  We had a couple pairs of our own good binoculars to bring points of interest close to our eyes.  When tired of watching the world go by, we caught up on Richard Lovelocks lectures and they were all excellent.

 

It was so nice to sit outside on our Veranda even in the heat and humidity.  How humid you might ask?  The glass partition below the balcony hand rail constantly dripped with moisture.  Water would also continuously flow down the wall partitions separating each veranda and it was not raining.  We were glad to have the pool towels covering the chairs and one positioned on the floor as we entered the cabin from the veranda so as not to get the carpeting all wet.

 

Although we have always enjoyed Room Service for breakfast, some of the items we ordered for other meals we did not like.  The Caesar salad which I love in The Restaurant was limp and wilted, the chicken soup was very bland and my fried chicken left a puddle of grease on the plate. However,  DH said his steak was cooked perfectly.  Feeling better by evening, we joined friends for cocktails and dinner in the World Cafe, a welcome social event after my two day self confinement.

 

That evening we watched the Port Talk for Santarem and Parintins.  DH had the Tapajos Forest Hike scheduled and I had the Maica Lake Pirhana Fishing optional one chosen.  Ray learned that it would be a tender to shore for the bus to the forest.  I learned that there would be a floating platform affixed to our ship at anchor from which I would board the boat for the Maica Lake trip.  Still weary and energyless from my infection, I was really happy to just get on another boat for my tour and not having to walk. 

 

Ship news for today, actually beginning once we entered Brazilian waters, was that all on board shops were closed for the rest of the Viking trip.  That included any clothing, jewelry and the little store for sudries.  So be sure you are stocked up on toothpaste or Tylenol before entering Brazil.  

 

So enjoy some photos from along the Amazon.

 

Edited May 9, 2023 by TayanaLorna
added

[Frenchberet]

Glad to hear you are feeling better!  Sounds like a wonderful trip!

[TayanaLorna]

Santarem, Brazil

 

Up early and had breakfast inside at the World Cafe because it was too hot and humid to sit on the Aquavit Terrace.  Ray had gone up to Deck 8 to see if there were any photo worthy bugs from overnight to shoot.  The deck crew had already swept and hosed all the decks.

 

Since we each took different excursions, I will describe them and post the photos separately.  Ray's guided hike was to the Tapajos National Forest, a preserve of over 1,300,000 acres.  It stretches along the Tapajos River which boasts miles of beautiful sand beaches and clear water.  On the other side it is bordered by a heavily farmed area.   A percentage of land per farm must be preserved - 20% perhaps.  The soil is poor and needs lots of fertilizer.  The main crop in this area is soy beans.  They drove for over an hour through fields with protected areas of forest.  Their hike was in a location in the northern portion of the forest and, from a photo I will post, you can see just how large is the preserve.  Ray said that altough they did not have a rainshower while hiking, their starting point had to be changed due to several buses stuck in the mud at the first parking lot they reached.  He said they didn't see any mosquitoes which was good news to those not vaccinated for yellow fever.

 

During the hike their guide showed them a nest of electric ants.  Just put your hands on the nest and then squish them on your arms he said and did.  The scent (actually pleasant) is a repellent.  No others tried this remedy. 

 

He explained how it is illegal to cut down a Brazil Nut Tree with fines and prison imposed no matter the size of the tree.  He showed them the softball sized Brazil Nut seed pod within which 10-14 brazil nuts were contained when opened. This pod is harder then a coconut.  The only animal capable of opening it is the Agouti.  The Agouti is like a squirrel from the US which eats the nuts and buries what it does not consume.  Except the Agouti often forgets where it buried them and the nut eventually sprouts a new tree.

 

They saw the fruit and flower of the Achiote tree and how the red pigment from the seeds and be used for face and body painting. 

 

They saw and carefully avoided a Bullet Ant - the most painful insect bite you can get.  One indigenous tribe's warrior rite of passage is to wear gloves filled with these ants - on 16 separate occasions.  A separate guide we had when further up the river from Manaus said he was bitten by 1 bullet ant and was off work for 2 days.  There was a National Geograpic special covering the warrior rite of passage event. 

 

The guide lit fire to a stick to produce a dripping resin which he said has many uses including making casts for broken bones.  They saw snails and butterflies and big trees and generally had a nice and informative time.  This was basically the only forest hike Viking offered on its excursions.

 

 

[TayanaLorna]

Santarem, Brazil (continued)

 

I took the Maica Lake & Pirhana fishing excursion not because of the fishing but I had read it was a good place to see wildlife.  Boarding the cute excursion boat was easy.  Walk down the Viking gangplank to a very solid floating dock, wait for the other boarding ramp to be moved to our boat.  Board and find your seat. We were boarded to the top open deck rather then the lower one which was where we saw other Viking excursion folk directed.  The top offers much better views and is partly open and partly covered plus we could walk all the way around the bow being careful not to block the view of the Captain.

 

We set sail enjoying views of Santerem, the blue Cathedral of our Lady of Conception, shoreside businesses and all the different kind of boats.  Everyone travels by boat and all goods are transported by boat.  Most families have a boat as many of the settlements can only be reached by water.  There was even a floating gas station as well as a floating platform where boats were able to dock and be partially raised for bottom work and maintenance below the waterline.  Locals would travel by ferry boat to and from towns up and down the river.  Booking passage gave you space to hang your sleeping hammock.  The trip between Santarem and Manaus would take over 3 days.  We could clearly see our first meeting of the waters - the clear Tapajos meeting the silty Amazon waters.

 

Passing town we entered the narrow canals of the Maica Lake region.  We heard and saw birds - different cormorants and the yellow headed caracara, hawks, turkey and other vultures - saw a sloth which was very difficult to spot as its coloring matched the bark of the cecropia tree.  We passed homesteads on stilts to protect against the seasonal rising of the waters, a pig farm, and beautiful scenery which photos don't do justice.  Farmers had two pigs in a small boat and would scoop a bucket of water pouring it on the pigs who would squeal much to our delight and laughter.  Pigs to the market or stray pigs collected wandering off the farm, we don't know.  Folks live in the area scraping out a living - no electric, no Internet service.  A guest asked our guide why they don't have solar.  She politely answered - they cannot afford it.

 

When fishing time arrived, we merely pulled to the side of the waterway along the trees and were given the means to pirhana fish as the locals do.  That is take a wooden block wound with fishing line and a hook tied to its end.  A guide kindly baited the hooks for the guests.  Line and bait lowered to the water as each watches for the feel and pull of fish on.  Several felt the tug but were unable to bring the fish to the surface for all to see.  Most lost their bait - sneaky pirhana!  It was all good fun.

 

We did have a couple die hard fishermen on board our vessel who brought their own fly rods all the way to the Amazon.  They didn't catch anything either although I don't know what fish can be caught  with the fly technique.  Our guide told us that the pirhana were about a meter down.

 

On our way back to the Viking Sea we again passed by the Santerem waterfront.  I spotted a bank of very dark clouds moving quickly towards us.  Soon enough we were hit with a very typical Amazon rainstorm with high winds and horizontal rain.  Our boat had blue tarps that could be rolled down and secured against the rain but we didn't have time to do that before most people got soaked.  Visability was gone.  We couldn't see town, other boats or the Viking Sea.  We held position until the squall passed and visibility to maneuver once again returned.  We queued to board along with the excursion boats having left the Sea earlier then us as all had to hold position until weather cleared.

 

I loved this excursion and was excited to see the a portion of the Amazon backwaters and how people live in the remote areas.  Plus I saw my first Sloth!

 

FYI.  Our friends on board who took the Viking Included of Santarem area liked it very much.  The only drawback was the heat and humidity as the buses are not air conditioned.  Those wishing to explore Santarem on their own were asked to wait until the early morning excursions had departed before seeking a tender ride to shore.  Once on shore Viking offered a complimentary shuttle bus in the port of Santarem with the drop off point Downtown at Praca do Pescador.

 

 

 

[TayanaLorna]

Parintins

 

Parintins is best known for its folk theatrical tradition known as Boi Bumba.  This extravagant performance, part of an annual folklore festival held each June, is Brazil's largest celebration after Carnival in Rio de Janeiro.  Combining costumes, drumming and Amazonian, African and European rhythms, it tells the story of a resurrected bull.  Viking had secured two performances of this show exclusively for our cruise.  It was the best included excursion of the entire trip and we missed it.  Me because I did not want to be in a room with 400+ unmasked folk and Ray, I don't know why.  I was feeling better but still leary of contacting Covid on top of a respiratory ailment.  Friends attended and took some awesome photos and videos to show us.

 

I can, however, tell future cruisers about the logistics of the event.  The morning show was at 10:30 and ticket holders were requested to arrive in the Star Theatre as early as 8 am and as late as 8:45 am.  Those on the early tenders were able to choose seats in the front of the theatre.  However they had to wait up to 1.5 hours for everyone else to arrive and the show to begin.  Same for the afternoon performance.  There was a short, mainly flat walk from the landing pier to the convention center.  Apparently this was a great improvement from the first cruise in January up the Amazon.  People had complained about the long, hot and uphill walk there to reach the convention center.  Viking listened and found a much closer tender landing although friends reported the tenders docked alongside a local boat and one had to walk through it to reach land.  The center was air conditioned as there were rest rooms.  At the end of the performance there was time to take photos of and with the performers.  At the end of the performance, Viking warned guests they would have to wait for the next available tender boat to return to the ship.  Passengers were able to explore town if they wished as it was very close.

 

We just enjoyed a day on a mostly empty boat.  We got up early this morning also to see what insects were on Deck 8 after the night.  At 5 am the deck crew had it almost cleaned up.  I asked when they started and was told 4 am!  A crew indicated that the number and type of insects on this cruise was greatly reduced from the January cruise.  Ray did capture a few shots.

 

Well those few shots are all we have to post here today along with some river traffic pix.

 

[downsmead]

Loving the trip report Lorna 😊 (we are the U.K. couple who did the additional Amazon trip with the OP).

The reason for having to walk through the local boat was the height of the dock - it was too high to step up off the tenders, so the local boat was used to ‘bridge’ the height difference. We had a small step up from the tender to the local boat, then walked to the other side of the boat, then another couple of steps to the dock!

[TayanaLorna]

3 hours ago, downsmead said:

Loving the trip report Lorna 😊 (we are the U.K. couple who did the additional Amazon trip with the OP).

The reason for having to walk through the local boat was the height of the dock - it was too high to step up off the tenders, so the local boat was used to ‘bridge’ the height difference. We had a small step up from the tender to the local boat, then walked to the other side of the boat, then another couple of steps to the dock!

Ok great info.  Our friends only said they had to walk through another boat.  Sounds like it was much easier.  Yes of course we remember you two.  Was thinking about Anika and Keith from South Africa.  Meaning to email them since we got back home.

[downsmead]

A couple of pictures from Boi Bumba for those following 

 

[gradydude]

Thank you so much for your detailed account and photos.  There doesn't seem to be much chatter about this cruise so your comments are very much appreciated. My husband and I are doing the reverse cruise in Dec.    I have a few questions.  Do you need Brazilian reales? Also how was your disembarkation?

[TayanaLorna]

11 minutes ago, gradydude said:

Thank you so much for your detailed account and photos.  There doesn't seem to be much chatter about this cruise so your comments are very much appreciated. My husband and I are doing the reverse cruise in Dec.    I have a few questions.  Do you need Brazilian reales? Also how was your disembarkation?

You are welcome.  Had a friend visiting for a couple days so did not have time to continue.  Have about a week to finish with our time in and around Manaus.

So you are flying into Manaus and sailing to San Juan.  We got $200 US in Realis but really didn't need it.  To purchase local crafts, souvenirs, give gratuities to guides or taxi drivers we used Realis or Dollars.  The locals always quoted 5 Realis to $1 as a simple way to exchange.  Have small denomination US bills.  We used a credit card at our hotel. 

Disembarkation in Manaus was not as grueling as it was reported on the first cruise SJ to Manaus in January.  A few things were changed based on lots of complaints.  We anchored as did the first cruise.  The cruise ship dock was damaged by high floods and i could not see any work being done on it.  We were traveling independently after Viking so did not have a transfer.  We had to carry our own luggage from our stateroom to the Atrium.  Once our call for the tender came, we had to get our luggage from the Atrium to Deck 0 where there was a floating platform and a local boat to take us to shore.  There were fellows who took our bags, loaded them and helped us board.  We arrived at the local dock where our luggage was offloaded - even our backpacks - and placed on the dock for inspection by dogs.  Once that was complete, we claimed our bags and carried them to the bus to the main terminal.  People with Viking transfers had their luggage picked up outside their room the night before and did not have to claim it until they reached the airport.  Viking transfers also had different buses - either direct to the airport or to a hotel to waif for their evening flight.  This is what we had to do in Manaus.  You will disembark in San Juan where the ship will be docked.  You claim your bags in the terminal, walk through Customs & Border patrol who pretty much only asked us if we had any plants or agricultural products when we did it in 2021 after a Viking TA.

 

[TayanaLorna]

Manaus, Brazil March 2, 2023

 

As we neared Manaus in the morning we noticed some of the homes were much nicer, cattle farms were more numerous and there was more industry.  We also saw the first bridge across the Amazon.  We passed through the Meeting of the Waters where the muddy Amazon River met the clear water of the Rio Negro.  This water color difference phenomena can be seen from satellite. 

 

We arrived and were anchored off Manaus by Noon and shortly thereafter the excursions began.  A pontoon was pulled up alongside The Sea and all the excursions except the Included and the History of Manaus & Its People boarded their tour boats directly on the pontoon.  The shoreshide excursions boarded their local tender boat on the pontoon in order to be transfered to their waiting bus on shore.

 

We had cancelled our Manaus Rubber Museum & Indigenous Village excursion a few days beforehand.  Instead we packed, I got a massage and we relaxed.  Knowing we still had 5 days of excursions ahead of us from the Iberostar Grand Amazon as well as in Manaus, we just enjoyed our last day on Viking.  Friends who were on the same excursion that we cancelled loved it.  Only drawback was that it poured rain at some point on the 4.5 hour excursion and the land became quite muddy.  We saw numerous guests upon their return from this tour tip-toeing in their wet socks carrying their very muddy shoes to their cabin.  Other friends who joined a Viking Included said it was passable but the Zoo they were taken to was sad.  

 

Manaus is 1,000 miles upriver from the Atlantic Ocean and is the most populous city in the Amazon basin with close to 2 million residents.  Other then its historic district with its either maintained or restored buildings including the Teatro Amazonas (the Opera House) and a few well maintained buildings nearby such as the Palacio Rio Negro (Rio Negro Palace), the city is rather run down.  The saving grace for Manaus was the establishment of a Free Trade Zone.  Manaus is the main transport hub for the entire upper Amazon basin.  It imports beef from the hinterlands and exports hides and leather.  Important industries in the Port of Manaus include manufacturing soap, chemicals, electronics equipment as well as shipbuilding, brewing and petroleum refining.  There is a large concencentration of electronics, two-wheeled vehicles, optical products, and computer products.  The waterside is bustling with activity.  Passenger ferries coming and going, fishing boats off-loading their catch, all manner of goods wheeled to and from docked boats and heavy street traffic.  From the Viking Sea we could view docked boats stretching along shore in both directions.

 

Here are some photos from our sail in as well as the anchorage.

 

Edited May 14, 2023 by TayanaLorna