Another Lens Question

[Woobstr112G]

I have one more question about my new Cannon !0-22 lens that I just purchased. From those of you out there that are more experienced than me, what would be the best type of setting to use this lens.

 

Bob

 

Future: Diamond Princess Aus/Nz 01/09

Future: Emerald Princess Med/Trans Atlantic 10/08

Constellation Europe 07/06

Summit Alaska Repositioning 05/05

Summit Panama Canal 10/02

Rhapsody Of The Seas Alaska 09/01

Spledour Of The Seas Baltic 09/99

Veendam Eastern Caribbean 07/96

Holiday Western Carribean 07/93

[pierces]

I have one more question about my new Cannon !0-22 lens that I just purchased. From those of you out there that are more experienced than me, what would be the best type of setting to use this lens.

 

Bob

 

 

Sorry if I miss on this, but the question was pretty general...:o

 

With any lens, not just wide angle, optimal sharpness is usually found a stop or two down from wide open (f/6.3-f/8 or so). Sometimes you need to stop way down to f/16 or smaller for increased depth of field to include near and far objects in the image. When stopping down to a very small aperture (f/22-f/27 minimum on you lens), be aware that you will lose some sharpness to diffraction through the smaller apertures. This doesn't mean your pictures will be soft and fuzzy at either wide open or stopped all the way down, but you need to be aware of the effect that aperture has on sharpness.

 

Another foe to sharpness is motion blur caused by camera shake. The 10-22 is not an IS lens and you don't have in-body stabilization like Sony Alphas and some others, so a tripod should be considered whenever you shoot at less than 1/30 sec. (1 Second/Focal length is the rule of thumb for minimum shutter speed to avoid blur, but I usually fudge on the side of caution when not stabilized.) This doesn't mean that you should just give up the shot if you don't have a tripod...I have taken wide angle shots at 1/2 sec. and longer that have turned out great. Again, just be aware.

 

Keep it level. Extreme wide angles cause extreme perspective. if you point the camera straight ahead, you will see that the lens does a great job of keeping lines straight. Tilt up or down, and you will get a lot of converging lines (keystone effect) and walls will lean in or out. Sometimes this can be a good effect, so experiment.

 

Bad for portraits. Unless you want the comic effect of large noses or giant heads, only include people for scale in a scene.

 

Keep your ISO low. One of the great things about wide angle lenses it all of those tiny details! High ISO and the attendant noise reduction can soften those details. Canon does better than most at high ISO, but lower is still better.

 

Other than "play with it and have fun", I can't think of anything else off-hand.

 

Enjoy the new toy!

 

Dave

[Woobstr112G]

Sorry if I miss on this, but the question was pretty general...:o

 

With any lens, not just wide angle, optimal sharpness is usually found a stop or two down from wide open (f/6.3-f/8 or so). Sometimes you need to stop way down to f/16 or smaller for increased depth of field to include near and far objects in the image. When stopping down to a very small aperture (f/22-f/27 minimum on you lens), be aware that you will lose some sharpness to diffraction through the smaller apertures. This doesn't mean your pictures will be soft and fuzzy at either wide open or stopped all the way down, but you need to be aware of the effect that aperture has on sharpness.

 

Another foe to sharpness is motion blur caused by camera shake. The 10-22 is not an IS lens and you don't have in-body stabilization like Sony Alphas and some others, so a tripod should be considered whenever you shoot at less than 1/30 sec. (1 Second/Focal length is the rule of thumb for minimum shutter speed to avoid blur, but I usually fudge on the side of caution when not stabilized.) This doesn't mean that you should just give up the shot if you don't have a tripod...I have taken wide angle shots at 1/2 sec. and longer that have turned out great. Again, just be aware.

 

Keep it level. Extreme wide angles cause extreme perspective. if you point the camera straight ahead, you will see that the lens does a great job of keeping lines straight. Tilt up or down, and you will get a lot of converging lines (keystone effect) and walls will lean in or out. Sometimes this can be a good effect, so experiment.

 

Bad for portraits. Unless you want the comic effect of large noses or giant heads, only include people for scale in a scene.

 

Keep your ISO low. One of the great things about wide angle lenses it all of those tiny details! High ISO and the attendant noise reduction can soften those details. Canon does better than most at high ISO, but lower is still better.

 

Other than "play with it and have fun", I can't think of anything else off-hand.

 

Enjoy the new toy!

 

Dave

 

Dave;

 

Thanks for all the useful tips.....

 

Bob

 

Future: Diamond Princess Aus/Nz 01/09

Future: Emerald Princess Med/Trans Atlantic 10/08

Constellation Europe 07/06

Summit Alaska Repositioning 05/05

Summit Panama Canal 10/02

Rhapsody Of The Seas Alaska 09/01

Spledour Of The Seas Baltic 09/99

Veendam Eastern Caribbean 07/96

Holiday Western Carribean 07/93

[Bodger]

"f8 and be there". I came across this the other day.

 

I just did a search and found:

"Being at the right place at the right time. F8 and be there, is how Allen Hopkins used to put it. He was a successful photographer based here for about ten years before he died in April 1997. It's kind of funny, a picture is worth a thousand words but photography

comes down to four: F8 and be there."

 

It sure helps to know some of the technical stuff, but being at the right place at the right time sure helps.

 

Bodger