Rio on your own vs. organized tours

[jill1349]

We will be in Rio on the Mariner Jan. 18 and 19 - arrive at 3 pm on the 18th and leave at 8:30 pm on the 19th.

 

Want to see Corcovado, maybe Sugarloaf, Ipanema and walk around Zona Sul. Not really interested to much in museums and shopping.

 

I know they say to go to Corcovado early in day but is it possible to take cab from ship to cog train day we arrive and head up. Only gives us 2 hours but wanted to do it first if we could. Have heard there can be long lines for the train and that you can also walk up - has anyone done the walk. Do you just start where the cog train would begin?

 

Next day would get up early to go to Ipanema (perhaps taxi or subway/taxi) and then walk to Copacabana.

 

Or would it be better to do Corcovado early on the 19th - if so not sure what to do day we arrive because we will only have a few hours before night.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. If there are other recommended sights would appreciate hearing them also. jill

[6246994]

All the things you want to do can be done without hiring a guide. Some people get nervous venturing out on their own in a cab because Rio has a lot of crime. But I lived there for six months as a single woman, and did most of the sites on my own taking cabs without ever a problem. Just use common sense and get either a yellow metered cab or a radio taxi pre-arranged (a bit more expensive). Avoid the subways, they have a limited range (mostly downtown, not where you want to be) and they are not as safe.

 

I don't recall what the hours are for the train up to Corcovado, but I never found many lines to get on it. I definitely wouldn't do the walk unless you are very athletic. Plus, January will be hot and humid there. If the day is clear, try to head over to Corcovado when you arrive. The best views from the top require a clear sky. Taxis in Rio are cheap for Americans, so even if you get there and find the line too long, you won't have wasted much and can just get a taxi to your next destination.

 

Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) is a must do. It is very easy to reach by taxi and I don't recall long lines there either.

 

Ipanema is also must (where I lived). The beach is beautiful, the people watching from the beachfront cafes is interesting, and the best boutique shopping in Rio is along Rua Visconde de Piraja, a street that runs parallel to Ipanema beach just a couple blocks from the waterfront.

 

I would avoid Copacabana. Yes it is quite famous, but in my opinion Ipanema is much prettier and by far a safer area.

 

For the short time you are in Rio, these things will probably fill your stay.

 

Have fun.

[owl61]

I live in Rio. A cab from the ship to the base of Corcovado will take about 15 minutes and cost about R$ 15. January 18th is a Sunday so there won't be much street traffic, but the lines at the cog train station may be long because it is tourist season. However, as it is summer there will be plenty of daylight until at least 8 pm local time so even if you don't board the train until 5:30 you will have sufficient time to enjoy the views -assuming it is a clear day. If, by some chance, it is the exceptional overcast summer day, don't bother going up Corcovado as you will not see much.

Walking up is out of the question for all but the serious athlete. Moreover, it would take about 3 hours. Cabs remain a good alternative to the train although a law was recently enacted prohibiting them from going all the way to the summit. You can exit the cab at a stop area about a km from the top and then hoof it the remaining distance in 15 minutes or pay an absurd R$13 for a minibus ride the remaining km to the top. Your taxi will wait for you while you check out the views from the base of the statute. A cab will also offer stops at vistas other than the summit so for a party of 4 who want to avoid the train line it's a very good alternative. You can negotiate a 3 hour taxi "tour" for about R$ 120 which works out to be cheaper than if you each paid the R$ 38 train fare. Paying at the conclusion of the tour is the norm and I would insist upon it.

Time permitting, try to fit into this excursion a 3 minute walk to the Museum of Primitive Art situated a block away from the Corcovado train ticket station. Although you wrote you were not much interested in museums this one is so conveniently located and so interesting I highly recommend you spend the better part of an hour there.

If you disembark promptly (3pm) you may be able to finish your Corcovado excursion and still have time to take the sky car to the top of Sugarloaf. Many prefer to visit Sugarloaf right before dusk because the sunset views are beautiful. Sugarloaf is about a 15 minute cab ride from Corcovado and if you opt for a cab tour at the former you can negotiate with your driver to drop you off at Sugarloaf as part of your tour. In any case, if you can board the Sugarloaf sky car before 7, you will have ample daylight to enjoy the views and also experience the sunset. Doing Corcovado by cab, visiting the museum and then ascending Sugarloaf would be an excellent and quite doable excursion - though possibly a bit hurred. You might even add to it by dining at Zozo, the restaurant located adjacent to the sky car exit at the base of Sugarloaf. Here is a brief note I wrote about Zozo from the Rio restaurant thread at tripadvisor ( http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g303506-i1199-k6033-Rio_restaurants-Rio_de_Janeiro_State_of_Rio_de_Janeiro.html

 

Giuseppe Grill was elected by the Vejo Rio magazine survey as best meat restaurant. The owners of Giuseppe Grill have opened a new place called Zozo. It's located in Urca on Praia Vermelha adjacent to the cable car station for Sugarloaf. It is a huge place which when totally completed will have 3 floors, the top of which will be for happy hour including live music. There is a magnificent manguera tree around the base of which the main dining room is constructed.

The menu is price fixed at R$ 60 for which you can order as much of anything you want including the Argentine bife de chorizo for which Giuseppe Grill is noted. The price includes a buffet of cold appetzers including sushi and salads as well as a dessert buffet if you leave room for it. This will be a convenient place for those doing Sugarloaf.

 

If you dont feel like trying to do too much on your first port day I'd recommend you utilize your second port day to visit Corcovado and just do Sugarloaf on day 1. As for some other things to do while in port here is an excerpt from another note I wrote at tripadvisor.com.

 

During the day, assuming sunny weather and some beach time will be on your agenda, you may want to lay out near Ipanema's posto 9 considered a happening beach popular with the young and hip. Alternatively, you may opt to explore the pristine beaches outside the zona sul concentration. Hop a main drag bus for a 50 min/ hour ride out to [/i]Prainha, Grumari or Guaratiba past the suburb of Barra de Tijuca. Lots of bucolic restaurants out there. Avoid rush hours like the plague going and coming.

For night time entertainment go to Lapa for live music clubs. There are many to choose from (Scenarium, Carioca de Gemma, Lapa 40 Graus)and they are pretty concentrated so you can crawl along the Lapa main streets to check out several in a single night. It's relatively safe as long as it's a night when people are out and about. Stay off deserted streets. Its easy to find the clubs' websites for more detailed info.

If Cidade do Samba is offering a night time show while you are here, try to take it in. The shows are usually on Thursday nights. It's not cheap, but its a fun night with music and great entertainment and sufficient finger food to satisfy obviate dinner. Check the web site (www.cidadedosambarj.com.br) to see if it will be functioning during your brief stay. The nearby Trapiche de Gamboa was recently voted as best live music club in a popular magazine poll. It would be a great spot to visit after the Cidade do Samba show.

Because it will be carnaval prep time you may want to check out a samba school rehersal - nothing much more than a dance at one of the overcrowded local samba schools where you could get to hear them practice their carnaval song with some percussionist accompaniment or see the Porta Bandeira and Maestre Sala (the flagbearing Queen and King) in uniform. Not all of them are that cool - I get claustrophobic in Salgueiro's clubhouse. Check websites of the various schools for details. You can easily search their names on line. One (Grande Rio) holds rehersals on Saturdays at Club Monte Libano in the neighborhood around the central lake - Lagoa de Freitas.

The lake is surrounded by numerous outdoor food quiosques/kiosks, many offering live music. I like the mediterranean food served at Arab, but there are many to choose from. Its a pleasant way to spend a few hours and soak up the local atmosphere as these spots are extremely popular with the natives on summer evenings.

An al fresco supper at a lakeside kiosk can easily be combined with a pub crawl in Leblon. There are many popular bars all within easy walking distance in upscale Leblon. Bardot is a little known dance spot on Dias Ferreira. Bars like Bracarense, Jobi, Conversa Fiada , Academia of Cachaca, Melt, Devassa all in Leblon might be fun for a pub crawl along the comparatively safe Leblon streets.

I would not be overly concerned with tourist traps. They are few and far between especially for young couples (as opposed to bachelors) as yourselves. I live near the nightclub, Plataforma Uno, and think it is a tourist trap, but not all share my opinion. Watch out for pickpockets and make sure the safe, numerous, and relatively inexpensive taxis always use the meter. Tips in taxis are not customary. Round the fare up to next whole $R. Ditto with restarants as the service charge is automatically added to the bill. You may want to leave a few extra $R if the service was very good.

You may want to peruse the restaurants thread in this forum to explore your dining options. If you want to splurge and and sample excellent Portugues cuisine try fancy Antiquarius. It's expensive, but you get decent value if you order well. I recommend the beef cheeks with fava beans.

 

Have a great time on your cruise.

[jill1349]

Owl61 and 6246994 - wow - this was so much more information than I hoped for. I have printed it and will take it with me. Now, just have to hope for clear day when we arrive. I had heard it was better to go to Corcovado early in the day but I think that the ship's tours will probably go out early on Monday, Jan. 19th so thought if we went soon as we docked we could avoid that rush. According to web site the train runs from 8:30 to 6:30. So we might make it.

 

And if not perhaps we could go to Sugarloaf when we dock and then get to Corcovado early the next morning before the lines. But I had also hoped to do Ipanema early in the day before things got to crowded. So many decisions - so little time.

 

Yes, have heard about crime and all and plan is not take any bags or camera - just shove credit card and some money in front pocket and hope for the best.

 

Was also wondering if it would be good to take the subway to Centro on Monday just to walk around and see some of the buildings.

 

Thanks again for the great information. jill

[owl61]

You appear to be "into" walking. After being discouraged from walking up Corcovado you now ask about walking around the Centro to explore the downtown buildings. I applaud your prediliction for strolling about , but that may not be an efficient use of the short time you have in Rio. Moreover, the Cariocas are unusually proud of their subway system so it is well maintained in a safe and clean condition, but it is not a particularly good way to get from the ship to the Centro or, more obviously, to explore the Centro streets/buildings. If you want to explore the Centro and surrounding buildings/architecture I would recommend a tour guide named Maria Yolen, www.Riocustomtours.com.br who is particularly knowledgeable in that aspect of Rio.

Remember you will have about 5 hours of daylight if you disembark at 3 pm on Jan 18 (sunset is 7:42). That should allow you plenty of time to take in either Corcovado or Sugarloaf and I would recommend Sugarloaf the 18th because the sunsets are nicer from there than from the top of Corcovado.

[mlbcruiser]

I just want to 2nd everything Owl61 has said! We did a land trip to Rio (4 nts.), Buzios, d Iguacu Falls last Nov. I was guided by people on Tripadvisor, who answered LOTS of questions for me and gave me great advice. We stayed in Copacabana (no "incidents" at all and walked all around the area a LOT), and mostly took buses everywhere, but cabs after dark. (Although once we hopped on a little "Colectivo" type van full of locals along Copacabana Ave. at night going to Ipanema.) We did a LOT during our visit, and we absolutely LOVE Rio! No doubt you will, too. Keep in mind you are going to be there "in season", whereas we were not. This will affect many aspects of your visit.

 

All the same music clubs mentioned by Owl61 were recommended to me prior to our visit. So along that line . . .One thing we tried to do was go to Rio Scenarium (stupidly passing up a club in Ipanema that had a very famous Samba singer appearing, only we didn't realize who she was until later, after we decided we didn't want to pay the $18 U.S. to get in!). Instead we decided to head to Rio Scenarium. We arrived in Lapa via cab in light rain at about 11 p.m. THRONGS of young people were in the streets everywhere for blocks before we reached our destination. The cabbie could barely get through the tiny street leading to the club. Once at the door, OMG! THE LINE!!! :eek: You would NOT BELIEVE the crowd! NO WAY would we have gotten in w/out "connections". I guess depending upon what night of the wk. you will be in Rio, should you decide to go there (and I've heard it's well worth it for great music and all ages attend), try to get there by 9 p.m. or so, though nothing starts much until an hr or 2 later. Better yet, see if you can make a reservation. (We didn't, so we headed back to our hotel. :( We will be in Rio via ship in early March and I plan to do it differently and hopefully we'll get in this time.) To be sure to get in, there are tour guides who can accompany you. (Probably the one mentioned by Owl61!) Or if you decide to attend a samba rehearsal, you might also do better w/a guide. We went to Manguiera's rehearsal (WONDERFUL and SO CROWDED!) on a Sat. nt. w/2 women our hotel recommended. We brought along another couple and there were three 20-somethings w/us. Our guides were not dorks, holding our hands every second. But we were glad to have them as our van inched towards the building (almost like a big gym w/a stage and "rooms" overlooking the crowded floor). They were able to get us through the unloading traffic, past guards, etc., closer to the bldg. There were food vendors all along the street outside of the building and many people milling around, selling things, on "dates", etc. Once inside, our guides basically just explained the goings on, led us to seats at a cafeteria-like table, and turned us loose, telling us things would start around midnt. & they would check w/us every so often (did hold up a small flag in the area of our table at designated times to check in w/us). We decided when to leave about 2:30 or 3 a.m., since our friends had an early flight out, but the rehearsal lasts until around 5 a.m.). You can't see a thing seated once things get going as everyone is standing and packed in like sardines! We had to sort of weave and push our way towards the center to see the "dancing". But the percussionists, m.c., etc., were on stage. (Some famous athletes - girls and guys and an actress or someone made appearances as guests.) We TRIED to sing along after being given papers w/the song's words on them, but managed only the chorus! We had a BLAST, however, and wouldn't have missed it for the world! HOWEVER, I hesitate to recommend going there if you have only one night in Rio.

 

Another really great thing to do not mentioned above is hangliding! (I am 56 and my dh was 59 at the time, so if you can run just 35 ft. to take off, you can do it! I did it though I knew I was having a knee replaced in Jan., but then I was 'shot up' w/cortisone for the trip!). The scenery is unbelievable because you are in RIO!!! (The mt. is just south a couple of miles from Ipanema) and you land on a georgeous beach. Pricey, though, at $100 U.S. pp. But the hangliding co. will pick you up and drop you wherever you want afterwards. Even the ride there was beautiful and interesting.

 

One last thing, don't wear real gold jewelry or diamonds. That is the warning we rec'd. the most. Not that we ever felt afraid, but it's wise. You will notice the locals wear "crafty" jewelry, made of stone, leather, beads and string. Lots of good pcs. available locally on the st. - esp. if you are there on a Sun. morning and can visit the "Hippie Fair" at Ipanema.

 

Have a great time!

[idnas71]

I have just had a very friendly and helpful communication with a guide in Rio named Rafael. He was recommended over at TripAdvisor.com.

 

His new/current e-mail is donrafainrio@yahoo.es. I sent my inquiry e-mail yesterday, and first thing this morning I had a reply. (After having tried to track down a private guide for Lima, and still no response, this was a welcome surprise.) This guy's passion for his job and his home is evident from the start. I had previously had communication with a guide from Gringo Management, and it was quite the opposite.

 

After the e-mail I got back from Rafael today, I feel very lucky that he is available for the day I will be in Rio. He will be taking me around for a full day for $150 U.S. The price would be the same for a couple. This will include a drop-off at the airport at day's end.

 

He has pictures of himself and his new, roomy vehicle and tons of activity suggestions at his webpage. http://braziliantours.blogspot.com/

 

I'm looking very forward to meeting him in December.

[Wendy The Wanderer]

Did you go to Buzios on your own, or on a tour or with a guide?

 

(We're scheduled for December 2009, departing on a cruise from Rio. My husband's been, but I have not--too soon to organize a pre-cruise, but gathering thoughts and information. I know it will be hot, so thinking beaches and resort areas. David stayed in Ipanema before.)

[jill1349]

Owl61 - yes guess I was over estimating time and distances regarding walking. We are marathoners and when we go to new cities often walk 5 to 8 miles in course of a day but you are right - we are only there one night and one day so do not want to waste time doing that. I actually had not planned to walk to centro but had planned to take taxi and then just walk around and soak in the environment.

 

Thanks to all that provided information on tour guides - I am wondering if that would be the smarter way to do it. Right now based on Owl's advice had planned to do Sugarloaf on the 18th and then head directly to Corcovado early on the 19th to try and beat the lines for the first train. After that head over to Ipanema and then any time left would maybe check out Centro or Copacabana.

 

Thanks for info on night spots but am not a night person - I can get up early but jut cannot stay up late. I know I miss a lot of fun. jill

[jorgeminiano]

I live in Rio and I must disagree at least with one of the answers you received: although Rio's subway doesn't has a lot of stations, it is the SAFER mean of transportation in Rio, for sure! Ipanema doesn't has a subway station yet (in the middle of 2009 it will).

[rollingstone]

Owl,

I have some questions for you (or anyone else in the know).

We will be in Rio from Mar 14-16. Since we have been there before, we do not need to see Sugarloaf, etc.

We are staying at the Sheraton. Is this considered Leblon? How far is it if we want to walk to the Hippie Fair? (we are very active but not marathoners)

We would like to visit Petropolis. What would be the best way? (taxi, tour from hotel, tour company)

What are some good places for dinner? (Walk or taxi)

Any other hints or suggestions?

Thank you,

Nancy

[greatam]

Owl,

I have some questions for you (or anyone else in the know).

We will be in Rio from Mar 14-16. Since we have been there before, we do not need to see Sugarloaf, etc.

We are staying at the Sheraton. Is this considered Leblon? How far is it if we want to walk to the Hippie Fair? (we are very active but not marathoners)

We would like to visit Petropolis. What would be the best way? (taxi, tour from hotel, tour company)

What are some good places for dinner? (Walk or taxi)

Any other hints or suggestions?

Thank you,

Nancy

 

Please don't plan on walking from the Sheraton Resort. Not only is the neighborhood dangerous, but you have to walk along a heavily traveled road. Walking over the bridge is particularly dangerous, as there is no sidewalk, so you have to walk in the road. The Sheraton has a shuttle which runs sporadically to "downtown".

 

IF you plan on walking around, find another place to stay. The Sheraton is NOT conducive to walking.

[MightyQuinn]

We're in Rio for only 1 nite pre-cruise, we don't plan on street-walking after dark & we're pretty sensible travelers. We've almost settled on a 4* hotel in Copa (after doing extensive research on TripAdvisor) but now I read some accounts here that Copa isn't very "safe" and Ipanema would be better. Do I really need to re-think this? :eek::eek:

[owl61]

Rollingstone,

The Sheraton Sao Conrado is not in Leblon. It is actually situated in adjacent Sao Conrado. The walk from the Sheraton to the Sunday Hippie Fair in Ipanema is a straight shot of about 2.5 miles along the beachfront sidewalk. Walking the first 400 meters from the hotel until you get to Leblon is the least desirable part of the journey, but there is a sidewalk on one side of the road and during the day it is not so bad that, judging from your looks, you need to avoid it. The Hippie Fair is in General Osorio Plaza at the far end of Ipanema, a block in from the beach.

 

If you want to go to Petropolis (a good choice) I recommend you hire a car with driver. An acquaintance of mine, The Incredible Hulk, Luiz Araujo, now has a Fiat Duplo. It will hold you and even another couple comfortably for the 70 minute drive up the mountains to the Imperial City. The Duplo is like a small SUV. So is Luiz. He was chosen to play the role of the Incredible Hulk for the Brasilian spin-off of that TV show, but it never got past the pilot stage. Luiz is a well mannered gentleman, but he doesn't speak much English. You would probably need to inform yourselves about the museum and sights of Petropolis, but that should not be difficult. Consult a guide book. I don't think you need to hire an English speaking guide for a Petropolis trip. The museum is self explanatory and the ride is half the fun. Lunch at La Locanda restaurant near Petropolis. The good news is that no one is going to bother you if Luiz accompanies you. You can call him at (55) (21) 8164 3953/ 8194 6716 or try emailing him at luizaraujobigman@yahoo.com.br. If you copy me I will make sure the communications are correct.

 

For dinner one night I recommend Antiquaruius which is in Leblon less than a km from the Sheraton. It is the best Portugues restaurant in Rio and a well known celebrity hangout. It's one of the few places you can dress up for and it's a bit pricey, but gives good value at today's exchange rates. At today's spiked rates expect to pay about US$150 for two without wine for a 3 course meal. If you go to the Rio forum at

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g303506-i1199-k6033-o130-Rio_restaurants-Rio_de_Janeiro_State_of_Rio_de_Janeiro.html you can read my review of this place. Try the beef cheeks with fava beans, the rice with seafood ala Cascais and for dessert, ovos nevados. Wash it all down with a bottle of locally produced Chandon "champagne" and you will have a great meal.

If you want to have another big meal while you are in town try the Porcao rodizio/barbeque in Flamengo (US $40pp w/o drinks). For a light seafood/Spanish meal at bargain prices, go to Shirleys in Leme ($20 pp w/o drinks - see my tripadvisor review). Careme in Botafogo is also a good choice.

 

MQ,

you do not need to rethink your hotel choice especially as you don't intend to walk about at night. I might suggest the Incredible Hulk as a driver escort for a fun night in Lapa - Luiz ( see above) would be ideal for such duty.

[MightyQuinn]

MQ, you do not need to rethink your hotel choice especially as you don't intend to walk about at night. I might suggest the Incredible Hulk as a driver escort for a fun night in Lapa - Luiz ( see above) would be ideal for such duty.

Many thanks Owl. :D:D

[mustafabalcony]

Our msc cruise docks in Rio at 9am and leaves at 7pm on 19 November.

Will we have time to visit sugarloaf and corcovado and does anyone know what price we should agree for a taxi from the cruise terminal to sugar loaf?

Perhaps we are trying to rush things and should just see sugarloaf, then go to the beach.

Thanks for any advice.

[Larry & Chiara]

Good feedback! My wife and I will also be on the same cruise as jill1349 and end the cruis in Rio on 1/18. Unfortunately, due to our good fare that included air, we cannot change our departure without great expense. Trying for a 2 night post-cruise offered by RCL. It is expensive but it might buy us 2 more nights in Rio - and that sounds like it would be a good idea. The only 2 hotels offered: Sheraton Rio Hotel and Towers or Hotel Rio Othon Palace. I have done some research and they both have great and bad reviews. Can you give me any feedback on those hotels? Thanks.

[SelectSys]

... The walk from the Sheraton to the Sunday Hippie Fair in Ipanema is a straight shot of about 2.5 miles along the beachfront sidewalk. Walking the first 400 meters from the hotel until you get to Leblon is the least desirable part of the journey, but there is a sidewalk on one side of the road ...

 

I remember that they shut down half of Ave. Atlantica on Sundays for foot traffic. Does this practice extend into Impanema and Leblon?

[brandonjordan]

We're in Rio for only 1 nite pre-cruise, we don't plan on street-walking after dark & we're pretty sensible travelers. We've almost settled on a 4* hotel in Copa (after doing extensive research on TripAdvisor) but now I read some accounts here that Copa isn't very "safe" and Ipanema would be better. Do I really need to re-think this? :eek::eek:

We will be in Rio in Jan and are torn between hotels. What did Trip advisor say. I am thinking of the Porto Bay Rio in north copa or the Sofitel in south Copa nearer to Ipanema. I like the location of the sofitel better but bthe past guest reviews are better for the Porto Bay. What do you think?

Thanks

BJ

[owl61]

Our msc cruise docks in Rio at 9am and leaves at 7pm on 19 November.

Will we have time to visit sugarloaf and corcovado and does anyone know what price we should agree for a taxi from the cruise terminal to sugar loaf?

Perhaps we are trying to rush things and should just see sugarloaf, then go to the beach.

Thanks for any advice.

There is no need to agree on a price for a taxi. Just use the meter. The cost of that taxi to Sugarloaf should be about R$ 20 - 25.

You can do both Corcovado and Sugarloaf in one day without excessive haste. Do Corcovado first. A cab to Corcovado should run about the same cost, R$ 25. If there is no line/wait for the cog train up to the summit of Corcovado take it. If there is a wait, consider hiring a cab. Cabs are now prohibited from going to the summit. They will stop about a km away. You can either pay R$13 for a RT minibus to the summit or walk it. The cab will wait for you and it will also take you to other spots for different views. Expect to pay about R$ 125-150 for a 3 hour cab excursion. If you share a cab with another couple the pp cost will be cheaper than the R$ 38 pp cost of the cog train. That cab can take you to Sugarloaf for an additional R$ 15.

 

I recommend the Othon Palace hotel over the Sheraton Sao Conrado.

Yes, the road alongside the beach is closed on Sundays for pedestrian traffic.