"Live" from Adventure of the Seas - January 15 - 25

[Nothin' But Sun]

Thanks for the pics, we will be where you are in exactly 1 week, staying there early and boarding the AOS. We will follow your adventure. I just showed the kids your pics of the beach and they are very excited.

Sue

[BuyReallyLow]

Day 1 - San Juan, PR

 

January 16, 2009

 

Temp – 83 Degrees

 

 

 

- Solvitur ambulando. It is solved by walking.

 

 

- - Saint Augustine

 

 

In his essay on the art of walking, Henry David Thoreau described his daily regimen of four-hour walks, a time when he could gather himself, hear the sound of his own heart beating – all the while sauntering, as he was fond of calling it, a word, he wrote, “which…. Is beautifully derived ‘from idle people who roved about the country, in the Middle Ages, and asked charity, under pressure of going a la Sainte Terre’, to the Holy Land, til the children exclaimed, ‘There goes a Sainte-Terre, a Saunterer, a Holy-Lander.”

 

Then remember the power of the traveler’s lamp. With it, we can see the pages of an old Greek volume on mythology. Turning the pages, we read that one way to focus our drifting attention is to listen to the whisper of wind through treetops. The Greeks personified those dulcet tones as the movement of lovely dryads, wood nymphs, which is why poets are compelled to wander through the woods when they need to be inspired. In nature, on a walk in the woods, they knew they could take in the spirits, the gods and goddesses who linger on in the world.

 

Remember that contemplative walks transform the ground beneath us into holy ground, whether we’re on the Appian Way outside Rome, the parking lot outside our office building, or in the El Yuque Rain Forest in Puerto Rico. The preparation for pilgrimage requires that we begin at home to watch and listen more attentively, despite being bombarded by everyday life.

 

El Yunque Rain Forest is the only tropical rain forest in the U.S. National Parks system. Ample rainfall (over 200 inches a year in some areas) creates a jungle-like setting – with lush foliage, waterfalls and rivers. There are many miles of trails to hike – today we sauntered about ten miles, taking in the peak of El Yunque, Britton Peak and Tower, and La Mina Falls.

 

After renting a car from our hotel from Hertz ($41.00 for the day), we head out of San Juan on Hwy 3 to the East. Soon you leave the asphalt of San Juan behind, and move into a much more lush countryside. You even encounter a true Toll Road - Hwy 66), which is $1.50 one way. Taking the toll road cuts off much of the stop and go lights on Hwy 26 (Hwy 3). After turning right on Rt 955, you quickly find Rt 191 that leads you thru a residential neighborhood up hill to El Yunque National Rainforest.

 

About 3-4 miles up the road you get to the El Portal Visitors Center (on right).

 

 

There is a fee to visit this center - $3.00 for an adult. It is the only fee you will pay during your day in the park. It is an educational center with lots of exhibits on rain forests and conservation. The center is landscaped with all sorts of tropical plants and flowers.

 

 

Notice the names on the leaves.

 

 

 

 

There is also a small sandwich cart on the 2nd floor, which, since it was approaching 11 AM and we had lots of hiking to do – was checked out. It was pretty unimpressive, and we decided to head up the road toward hopefully better eating spots and the end of the road – which serves as the trailhead for the Britton Peak Trail.

 

The road continues to climb up the mountain. The road is winding, so be careful of the curves. About 3-4 miles up the road, you hear before you see the roar of La Coca Falls. A parking area is just past the falls, so pull in and take pictures to your hearts content.

 

[BuyReallyLow]

Continuing to climb, we pass the Yokahu tower, which we mark to visit on the way down and La Mina Falls trails, which we do the same. We find our food stop at Yuquiyu Delights in the Sierra Palm Food Concession area. The burgers were very good, and our friends wife who tends to eat Vegetarian found an outstanding Veggie burger. While sitting and eating, the Rain Forest began to do what rain forests do – RAIN!! It began as a sprinkle – and became a gully washer. Upon finishing our lunch, it showed no signs of letting up – so the three of us piled into the car and kept heading uphill.

Upon arriving at the end of the road (a gate blocks going further up the Service Road), we found a spot to park, donned our “attractive” yellow ponchos and began to climb the Britton Peak trail. The elevation at the road end is around 2500 feet. It was raining nice and steady – the type of rain with the BIG rain drops that make the solid “splat” when they hit you, or the myriad of Palms that surround you on this fabulous trail. The Mount Britton Trail is a 0.8 mile, one-way hike. It starts a short walk from Road 191, at an elevation of 2,493 feet and climbs 594 feet in this short distance. The trail is narrow, but paved, and well-maintained. It is a labeled as a “Challenging” trail by the US Forest Service, but we didn’t really think it was that challenging. I guess that they labeled it that was because it’s steep in some places, and the paved walkway can be slippery. The trail is paved with cement and rocks, and is raised up off the forest floor by about 6 inches.

The Trail goes through the Sierra Palm Forest, which you’ll easily recognize because of the huge number of palm trees growing in this area! There are a number of places where you will be near streams along the way. There is one spot, close to the trail head, that has a cute little river pool you could cool your feet off in. There are three rain shelters along the way, with benches.

 

 

 

Soon you reach the top of this section. You then have to walk about 500 feet up the service road to take the Spur toward the Mt. Britton Peak tower. This spur trail is a short trail of about ¼ mile uphill to reach the tower. The tower has a spiral staircase that climbs about three stories to the top. During those rare times when it is not raining, the view can be spectacular. But today we are seeing visions in and above the clouds, and we were instead surrounded by the surreal mist and fog (while being pelted by the rain).

 

 

 

Our friends Scott & Amy. Aren't they cute in the Yellow Ponchos?

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It's etherial up here!

 

 

Coming back down the trail, you now move only 15 feet or so to link with the El Yunque trail. The trail here changes character – it is now crushed rock, along with quite a few boulders. It is loose footing – and although the preceeding trail could be quite slick, the water did not run over the trail. Here it runs in torrents – covering the trail and making one walk much more gingerly.

 

Along the way, you will be crossing many mountain streams, seeing beautiful plants and flowers like fern trees, bromileads, impatient and hibiscus flowers. Be careful - it is easy to mis-step as you are looking at all the beautiful plant life around you. You will also be hearing many different types of birds, insects and frogs (including the beloved Puerto Rican coqui!). Just don’t expect to see the Puerto Rican Parrot. There are only about 33 left in the wild and they are rarely seen.

 

 

 

Following the El Yunque trail, you will eventually come to a junction with Las Picachos trail. El Yunque trail is to the left. If you have time, take the short Las Picachos trail - it is very short and the views are really nice toward the east shore. But it is an out and back. So after admiring the view, come back and continue on the El Yunque trail toward the peak. At this point, the trail gets a bit rough and less maintained. But it is still very doable.

 

You will get to a point where you will think you are at the top because it is kind of flat and the wind is blowing and if you carefully go out onto the rock on your right you can get great views and pictures.

 

 

At this point, you are almost to the peak, but you still have some more upward climbing to do!

The El Yunque trail will eventually come to Road 10. When you get to the paved road, turn left and walk up the last really steep part to the top. Walk up the steps of the Observation Tower. Once you are on the top, you have made it to the peak!

The Observation Tower at the peak looks like an old church inside (with a Cross engraved in the stone) and a castle from the top with parapets. It makes a neat picture! One drawback is there are a number of communication towers along the peak, so your view to the west is marred by antennae. But on the plus side, you get really good cell phone reception up there!

 

 

We’ve reached the top! To get down we can come back the way we came, or we can go down the service road to the car. We choose to go down the service road most of the way, retracing the trail on the raised cement bed back to the car. We are wet, (rather soaked!), but elated at the climb to the top of the 3500 foot peak and back down. Fantastic exercise to get ready for the cruise!

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Back in the car, we head down the mountain. We stop to take in the Big Tree Trail and walk to La Mina Falls. If you have always dreamed about swimming in a waterfall, having the water cascade onto your back, massaging you, then you are in luck. You can have that experience at La Mina. This beautiful 35 foot waterfall is one of the most popular places to visit while in the rain forest. Luckily there are two trails that lead you to La Mina Falls. One is La Mina trail, and the other is Big Tree trail.

Unlike many other rain forests around the world, El Yunque rain forest is not full of huge old trees. The lush and beautiful mountain is actually covered with many different types of young trees, but most of them are only 15 to 50 years old. This is because El Yunque has been cleared a few times - sometimes by natural causes like hurricanes, and sometimes by unnatural causes like lumbering. However, if you walk the Big Tree trail, you will be able to see some of the large 200 to 300 year old trees that once made up the whole area.

Some of the facts about this trail: Big Tree trail is about 0.8 miles long one way. It starts at about 1800 feet and descends to 1640 feet, making it only about 160 ft drop in elevation. It is a fairly easy trail, except for those steps, so it has a "Moderate" difficulty rating. The trail head is located at the large parking lot at KM 10.4 on Road 191. It will take about 45 minutes to get to La Falls from the trail head, walking at a good speed. If you are a slower walker, or want to take your time and read the informational placards, it will take longer. There are some rain shelters with benches along the trail, so you can rest or get out of the rain. The trail is paved with asphalt or concrete most of the way. If you are planning on going into the falls, wear your bathing suit while hiking. There is no changing area at the waterfall.

 

When you start walking on this trail, it is natural to stop at every placard sign that you come to. Another approach would be to read half on the way down and half on the way up. This way, you have an excuse to rest while you read the signs on the way up! The placards discuss all sorts of things about rain forests in general, and this one in particular. The trees, birds, insects, lizards, and plants you are seeing along the way. Take your time to look around and listen to the forest, it is a magical place, that is full of beauty. It seems longer then the indicated mileage as you anticipate getting to the waterfall. You can hear the waterfall long before you actually can see it.

We’re done. It is wonderful. It is beautiful. Although we were not blessed with the glances of the fantastic promised views, we are enthralled by the day, the efforts, and the rewards. It is now time to limp back to San Juan to prepare for our dinner… but that is the next post!

If you would like to see more pictures from the rainforest, visit my Photobucket album -

http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr330/BuyReallyLow/

[BuyReallyLow]

It's 10:35 PM - and we're just back from having a fantastic dinner. Quick review:

Restaurant - Ummo's Argentinian Grill

Menu - Mostly a steak house - but with excellent pasta. Menu is ordered with everything separate - appetizers, salad, soup, main course, sides are all priced independantly.

Review: The food was excellent!! My friend Scott, who is a true blooded carnavore who eats all Red Meat - all the time - says it is the best Filet he has ever Eaten. That is better than any Ruth Chris, Mortons, etc. My NY Strip was also very, very good - especially with the Garlic Olive Oil with Pesto that can act as an Au Jus (sp?). My DW had a Mushroom Spinach Ravioli (so did Amy) that they almost licked the plate clean! Our desert was a Mango Sorbet, which helped top off the meal. The shortfalls are that all the hard surfaces make the restaurant very noisy and a challenge to hear. It is obviously a hot spot in this part of town - you will see the beautiful people dressed to impress. The only separator that separates various areas is a Red curtain - which is classy but does not do much to absorb sound.

Price for two: $139.00 before tip. That does include a bottle of wine.

Recommended - Yes. Make reservations. Bring your appetitie. This is an up-energy place, so not a good choice for a quiet romantic dinner. But the food is fantastic!

It is late. My feet and knees are sore. I have walked over 20,000 steps today, totalling almost 10 miles. Tomorrow, Old San Juan beckons, as does the pool and beach. It is time for bed. Until tomorrow, when a new day dawns....

Good Night!

That's my DW and I on the right. Our friends Scott & Amy are on the left.

[BuyReallyLow]

We're up this morning. We had some rain and even a few T-storms roll thru last night. My socks that I left on the railing did a poor job of drying - the humidity makes it difficult. This morning, the skies are mostly cloudy - in the distance I can see some bright skies. The weather calls for a chance of showers this morning, clearing this afternoon. Welcome and safe travels to all our friends who are joining us today.

 

Today is my birthday, so my DW has given me the best present she knows of - she's given me permission to "be Bill" and wander Old San Juan!! She is going to lie by the pool and on the beach today. I hope to get into Old San Juan this morning and saunter slowly around the city. I am going to use the walking tour that is covered at www.puertoricodaytrips.com, and will modify it with pictures for my later review.

 

I hope everyone is staying warm. The sound of the surf continues to pound away, pulling the stress from my shoulders and putting me into the right "state" before embarking on Adventure of the Seas tomorrow.

 

Next Up - Old San Juan!

 

BRL

[MARTYsmom]

:):):) Loved reading your updates so far and the pics are great to. We are staying at the Marriott pre-cruise as well. Enjoy the warm weather!!

[Jan_In_Maine]

Thanks for the review - Looking forward to reading more. Happy Birthday! Enjoy your day. Jan

[ckrobyn]

Loving your review so far!!! :)

 

We are right behind you in 35 days and we are also staying 2 nights pre-cruise at the Stellaris and one night post-cruise on points. Membership has it's priveledges, doesn't it? The average rate for the Stellaris is about $300 a night.

 

Keep the pics coming! I can't wait to be back on my favorite ship in a few weeks!!

 

Have a wonderful cruise!!! :D

[Tex_Jen]

Have enjoyed your review immensely, so far. Brings back memories of my own trips. Great pics and excellent stories.

 

The Marriott Stellaris is also one of my favorite hotels and I try to stay on points as well. Can't wait to hear about the rest of your trip.

 

and HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!:D

 

Jen

[Deborito]

Happy Birthday!!!!!! Hope you enjoy your day exploring OSJ. We will be staying at Marriott Stellaris next week.

 

We are planning on taking a trip to the rainforest and hiking also. Do you think that someone that is kind of out of shape can do your tour? I had planned to see all the areas that you have covered but my DH thinks I may not be in good enough shape to make it to the top. Debbie

[AF-1]

nice post, enjoyed looking at the rainforest pics. what camera do u use? I ran into some AOS passengers yesterday in St. Martin. I'm down here on business and was talking to four of the pax who were on the same beach as I. They said ship and crew were great.

Cheers

[MAGNUM PI]

Would greatly appreciate information about the AOS entertainment options.

 

Current performers? Show times? Ice Show review? Which movies are shown at the cinema?

 

Have been attempting to obtain detailed information, about the entertainment, but it is difficult to do so.

 

Thank you!

 

MAGNUM

[BuyReallyLow]

Happy Birthday!!!!!! Hope you enjoy your day exploring OSJ. We will be staying at Marriott Stellaris next week.

 

We are planning on taking a trip to the rainforest and hiking also. Do you think that someone that is kind of out of shape can do your tour? I had planned to see all the areas that you have covered but my DH thinks I may not be in good enough shape to make it to the top. Debbie

 

Deborto, its tough to give you a good answer. Let me give you some of our stats - the three of us are in our mid 40's. My two friends are in very good shape - club every day, run half marathons, etc. I AM NOT!! But I have always enjoyed hiking, do it approximately one weekend per month in the summer with a full 50 lb pack, and normally can cover 10-15 miles comfortably. I have the Miller Beer Gut that is a bit too large for my taste, but I get along. We were able to cover the trail to the top in about 2 hours round trip. The guides said it would take us three. So.... if you pace yourself..... and the most challenging part is the first section, which is .8 of a mile. After that, you've got about 500 yards of service road climbing, then a trail that is not nearly as up as the first section, but the trail is not as nice either. You spend more time watching your footing here. The trail slowly climbs elevation as it wraps around from the North slope to the south slope. The view from El Yunque is all around - Los Pichachos looks toward the South. So I would say go into with an open mind, a couple of bottles of Water, Rain Ponchos, and give it a try!! Take your time. How many times in your life will you be presented with this kind of opportunity? Seize the moment!

 

Good Luck - let us know how it went!!

 

BRL

[BuyReallyLow]

nice post, enjoyed looking at the rainforest pics. what camera do u use? I ran into some AOS passengers yesterday in St. Martin. I'm down here on business and was talking to four of the pax who were on the same beach as I. They said ship and crew were great.

Cheers

 

A Sony DSC-H7. It's a couple of years old, but I know my way around it.

[BuyReallyLow]

Would greatly appreciate information about the AOS entertainment options.

 

Current performers? Show times? Ice Show review? Which movies are shown at the cinema?

 

Have been attempting to obtain detailed information, about the entertainment, but it is difficult to do so.

 

Thank you!

 

MAGNUM

 

Stay tuned. I'll make sure to include thoughts on entertainment for each day.

[ace1zoe2]

BRL,

 

Could you give me an idea of the amount of time it took for your day trip from hotel to rain forest & back. We will be there June for the first time flying in on Friday before cruise on Sunday. We would like to the Vieques Bio Bay on Saturday evening and had planned to do the OSJ walking tour described on puertoricodaytrips.com that morning. However after reading your review and seeing pictures of the rain forest I think it may be a must do. We are mid to late 40s traveling with our 3 adult children and spouses so a total of 8 of us. Do you think it would be possible to do the rain forest & biobay in one day? Also if we fly in around 2:30pm on Friday, would that give us enough time to tour OSJ on Friday instead? Thanks for all your help. Your pictures are wonderful and are really getting me excited about our trip! We are trying to find things to do that don't cost a small fortune every single day.

 

P.S.

Happy Birthday!

[BuyReallyLow]

Day 2 – San Juan, Puerto Rico

January 17, 2009

81 Degrees

My Birthday

My wife is always worried that she will not have enough “time” by the pool or on the beach. What if it rains the day she has planned? Today, the plan is to do as little as possible. Give my wonderful, beautiful wife the time she needs to be pampered and soak up some sun. Maybe settle in and enjoy a good book…..

But I am one who is easily bored. And with a beautiful city like San Juan beckoning me, how can I resist?

What a day to take a walk thru a city that for the most part remains largely as it did 300 to 400 years ago!

I love walking in Old San Juan. I imagine slowing down, becoming aware of the voices of my dreams, of unexpected encounters. The decision to take this journey always redoubles my respect for time. I literally end up “looking again” at the role it plays in my life. Often, I have thought about those awe-inspired medieval pilgrims to the Temple of Time in Rome, where the first public clock was displayed. Crowds waited for hours to file past the elaborate clockworks, torn between admiration for the wonderous precision, and suspicion, for they knew that their time was no longer theirs.

Recalling can help clarify the calls to come. As I prepare to revisit Old San Juan, I remember to practice listening – to my friends, my children, to music, the wind, my dreams, the ancient wisdom of sacred texts. Listening as though my life depends on it.

It does.

My trip to San Juan this morning was marred by a small detour – the taxi cab broke down on the way to Old San Juan! Since I was within 2 miles of San Cristobal, I decided to walk the rest of the way into Old San Juan. It allowed me to see the school kids getting ready for the Parade thru Old San Juan. This entire weekend is the celebration of San Sebastian. The Old City is pretty much closed down to road traffic, and in the late morning it begins to buzz with motion, climbing to a crescendo as day moves into night. It makes for a exciting, but not quiet, night in Old San Juan. So plan accordingly! Before long, I was able to walk down to my starting point for examinations of Old San Juan – the Paseo de la Princesa.

 

 

All of my visits to Old San Juan must begin with a stroll down the Paseo de la Princesa. This lovely byway is tree lined and has beautiful gardens, plenty of benches to sit and watch the world stroll by, and even a nice little restaurant. All along your right side you will be dominated by the massive city wall. “La Muralla” was started in the early 1500’s, and was finally completed in 1782. In some locations, its almost 20 feet thick and almost 60 feet tall! It was built to protect the city against the enemy, and secures the 7-block “Old San Juan” from the rest of Puerto Rico.

Continuing our amble, we come upon La Princesa. This little wonder used to be the San Juan jail. This is the home of the Puerto Rico Tourism center and often has an interesting collection of art. I like to take a few moments to tour the jail, then go out to see the jail cells themselves. But it is not open today – The tourism center is open on Weekdays, but not weekends( doesn’t make a lot of sense, does it?).

 

 

This walkway has numerous fountains and sculptures.

 

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The Walkway is also full of small bench areas that are tucked off the path - offering a tranquill place to sit and people watch and cool off on a warm day.

 

 

You will soon reach the City Gate. This is the last remaining original gate (there were once 6) that used to allow entrance into the Old City. Above the gate is the Latin Phrase “Benedictus qui venit in nomine domini”. I’m a bit rusty on my latin, but a little computer research shows it is translated to “blessed is he who comes in the name of the lord”. This must have been a wonderful sign to see as the sailor returned from long months at sea. When one looks up the street through the gate, the Cathedral is visible at the top of the street.

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Climb the hill to the San Juan Cathedral. I remember discovering on our first visit here that Ponce De Leon is buried here. Talk about a flash back to High School History! (Go ahead – look up what he is famous for…. I’ll wait…..) The Cathedral is over 450 years old and is the 2nd oldest Cathedral in the Western Hemisphere. and still has mass each day. If your thinking of the huge Cathedrals of Europe, or even in major American cities your in for a surprise. It is it’s simplicity that makes so remarkable! If mass is not occurring, take a look inside and thank your higher power that you are here, on this day, at this time! We are all truly blessed!!

Once back outside, keep heading uphill (to your right) and you’ll be heading up Cristo Street. On this street your going to find many bars, art galleries, museums, and restaurants. Depending on your time of day, this would be a good place to catch a snack or a break. One little hidden gem is the Old Dominician Convent – look for the door by the San Jose Church. The Covent now holds the National Gallery, showing works of Art from Puerto Rican artists. Nice and cool, it is a wonder to behold. Pictures were not allowed, so I am not able to share them with you. But it is worth a visit – admission is $3.00.

 

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You’ve reached the end of the street, so head left, and you will be in a wonderful Plaza with a Totem Pole sculpture. It is the Plaza del Quinto Centenario, which was built in 1992 to commemorate the fifth centenary of the discovery of America. It gives us an overview of the El Morro Fortress, the Old San Juan Cemetary, and nice Ocean views. You’ve just climbed to the top – so take a break before heading across the field toward El Morro. You will also find another Church here that is under renovation. This was a very busy place, as they had set a stage up behind the Totem Pole for a large band to perform that night.

Here's a picture of the banner describing this weekends festivities.

[Cruiserccl]

WOW! Thanks for keeping us updated! I'm glad your having a GREAT cruise! :D

[Kikkycat]

I was merely excited before. Now I am completely salivating!

 

Muchas gracias.

[BuyReallyLow]

The walk across the field leading to Castillo de San Felipe del Morro (El Morro) is one of the best memories of Old San Juan. This fort is a wonderful example of the Spanish style Fort that you will find throughout the Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico, including Florida, Mexico, the Dominican Republic, etc.

El Morro is as awe-inspiring as it sounds: the largest fortification in the Caribbean and named a World Heritage Site by the United Nations. It was built by the Spaniards between 1540 and 1783 to honor King Phillip II. Located on a rocky point on San Juan Bay, the fortress rises 180 feet above the sea and features 18-foot thick walls. Inside, a web of corridors, dungeons, ramps and vaults provide plenty of opportunity for exploring. Your ticket here will also get you into Fuerte San Cristobel if you go on the same day.

Its full name is the Castillo de San Felipe del Morro, but it is better known by El Morro, which means "promontory." Perched on the northwestern-most point of Old San Juan, this daunting citadel must have been an intimidating sight to enemy ships. In fact, in its long history, El Morro was never defeated by a naval attack. El Morro only fell once, in 1598, when the Earl of Cumberland took the fortress by land.

You’ll follow in the Earl’s footsteps as you cross a large green field to get to the fort. Today, people come here to relax, picnic, and fly kites; the sky is full of them on a clear day. (You can buy one-they're called chiringas-at a nearby stall.)

 

 

Once you reach the citadel, take your time to explore its ingenious architecture – there is a lot to explore!. El Morro is made up of six staggered levels, incorporating dungeons, barracks, passageways, and storerooms. Walk along its ramparts, where cannons still face the ocean, and step inside one of the domed garitas, or sentry boxes, which are themselves an iconic symbol of Puerto Rico. Looking out across the bay, you'll see another, smaller fortification. Called El Cañuelo, this was El Morro’s partner in the island’s defense: ships hoping to attack Puerto Rico would be cut down in a barrage of crisscrossing cannon fire.

Two modern structures were added to El Morro after Puerto Rico became a commonwealth. A lighthouse that was damaged and repaired by the U.S. in 1906-08 stands out in stark contrast to the rest of the structure. During World War II, the U.S. Army added another entirely incongruous fortification, installing a military bunker on the top level.