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Cost of small ship vs larger ship


beth555

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Yes, ended in NZ. Enderby and Campbell Islands. Went by myself. DH thought I was nuts and refused to go. So I asked the cruise line if they could find cabin companions. Yes, they did-2 other women-one fairly young (early 30's) who was a nature photographer and one my age (late 50's) who just wanted to see what we saw, same as me. It was pretty crowded in the cabin but we all got along OK.

 

It was truly a once in a lifetime trip (if for no other reason than the cost). But I wanted to see McMurdo-I had been offered a job there shortly after I graduated from college. I chickened out-went to live in Hawaii for a year instead. I have always wondered what I missed and where life may have taken me if I had gone to McMurdo for that job.

 

And I wanted to see the Dry Valleys. Only accessible by helicopter or snow cat + feet. Helicopter was MUCH easier. Something like only 2500 people in the whole world have ever been there. Pretty special experience.

 

I had just sold one of my rental properties. I had a few extra bucks. I work 65-80 hours per week every week without much time off. I told myself I deserved to spend the money. DH is still questioning that judgment, but I had one heck of a time.

 

Thanks so much for sharing your experiences. What priceless memories you made. You won't die wondering what McMurdo was like!

What is the attraction of Dry Valleys?

What was the wildlife and birdlife like on Enderby and Campbell Islands?

How rough were the seas on that route?

I thought that you'd probably shared with strangers, as my daughter did last January. She took me at my word to keep a balance in her life. An added joy for her was that she got to Antarctica before me.

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While the OP may have made a decision by now, I'd like to toss in another opinion. We did Antarctica for the first time as a cruise-by on a luxury ship doing Valparaiso - Buenos Aires. Loved it and couldn't wait to get back. Three years later we were on the Marco Polo doing the full Zodiac landings. (Can't recommend the Marco Polo, it's under new ownership.)

 

The first trip was a lovely cruise, the second trip was an adventure. There is nothing to compare with pulling on the wellies, climbing into your zodiac and landing on the continent (and also some islands.) Here are just three photos I took -- the first is ashore among the penguins at Port Lockroy, looking over whale bones towards our stalwart guides waiting in the Zodiacs, the second is moving around icebergs to land at Paradise Harbor (we're in Zodiac behind the one in the picture) and the third is ashore at Paradise Island - the kid on the right is the son of one of our expedition leaders (Peter Hillary, yes, son of) who was shoveling penguin poo off the path.

 

So here's the question: which type of cruise will make a lifetime of fantastic memories for your kid? Would your kid rather be on a Zodiac or looking over the rail of a large ship? If I could go back in time and take my kids on an Antarctic EXPEDITION I would do it in a heartbeat.

 

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Thanks so much for sharing your experiences. What priceless memories you made. You won't die wondering what McMurdo was like!

 

What is the attraction of Dry Valleys?

 

What was the wildlife and birdlife like on Enderby and Campbell Islands?

 

How rough were the seas on that route?

 

 

In case you missed my questions.

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In case you missed my questions.

 

Dry Valleys-there has been no rain there forever (at least what we were told). To be surrounded by ice and snow and then to see this gravelly, moonscape like surface that is bare was really weird and that is the reason I wanted to see it. It was really weird to see a huge glacier that tapered off into this gravel surface with no water anyplace around except for some lakes. But the water wasn't really "running" to the lakes, so it was a mystery. We flew over Mt Erebus in the helicopter, but it was just barely visible as a volcano-really had to look to see the steam, although we were told it is an active volcano. VERY windy on that day-they said sometimes the wind blows over 200MPH.

 

Wildlife on the Kiwi Islands-Enderby was filled with sea lions. There were a few different kinds of birds-I am not big into birds but I remember the skua (weird name), the Shag (like the dance I think) and of course the yellow eyed penguins. I only saw the skua and the penguins, although they kept pointing out the Shag but I don't think I saw it. I was disappointed that they got rid of the cattle. I thought the Enderby Shorthorns were a "national treasure" Evidently not-they ate all the vegetation and were either killed or moved sometime in the last 10-15 years. I also missed the parakeets. I thought they were pigeons or just some nasty little bird and never really paid attention. I was looking for cows.

 

I wasn't too much into Campbell Island-in fact, I wasn't even going to shore (I would have been left by myself with the cook!!!). I kept hearing about all these rats that invaded the island-yuck!!! But then a kind soul told me the rats were no more, so I went. Again, lots of sea lions. A couple of Leopard seals, although we saw a lot more around McMurdo. That was another "must see" on my list. The air was thick with albatross (they follow the boats). I was also surprised to see a couple of Southern elephant seals up in the grassy areas by the beach. I didn't realize they left the beach-that is where I had always seen them before. I was also surprised to see how green it was after all the barren snow, ice and rocks.

 

There were two REALLY rough spots-when we were breaking ice through the Amundsen sea getting to McMurdo and in the Southern Ocean going to Campbell Island. I got to go up in the helicopter for a very long time while they were breaking the ice-that was probably the highlight of the trip other than actually walking around McMurdo. I was simply fascinated-lots were sick of both the noise and the crashing. My older cabin mate was getting pretty exhausted from the crashing and spent a lot of time in the cabin. The Southern Ocean blew up a pretty good storm and the ship was rocking and rolling. Lots of green faces. Thank goodness, I am an adrenaline junkie and live for that stuff.

 

All in all, one spectacular experience. I KNOW I could never do a drive by cruise-there is just too much out there to see up close and personal. Sorry I missed your questions earlier.

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Dry Valleys-there has been no rain there forever (at least what we were told). To be surrounded by ice and snow and then to see this gravelly, moonscape like surface that is bare was really weird and that is the reason I wanted to see it. It was really weird to see a huge glacier that tapered off into this gravel surface with no water anyplace around except for some lakes. But the water wasn't really "running" to the lakes, so it was a mystery. We flew over Mt Erebus in the helicopter, but it was just barely visible as a volcano-really had to look to see the steam, although we were told it is an active volcano. VERY windy on that day-they said sometimes the wind blows over 200MPH.

 

Wildlife on the Kiwi Islands-Enderby was filled with sea lions. There were a few different kinds of birds-I am not big into birds but I remember the skua (weird name), the Shag (like the dance I think) and of course the yellow eyed penguins. I only saw the skua and the penguins, although they kept pointing out the Shag but I don't think I saw it. I was disappointed that they got rid of the cattle. I thought the Enderby Shorthorns were a "national treasure" Evidently not-they ate all the vegetation and were either killed or moved sometime in the last 10-15 years. I also missed the parakeets. I thought they were pigeons or just some nasty little bird and never really paid attention. I was looking for cows.

 

I wasn't too much into Campbell Island-in fact, I wasn't even going to shore (I would have been left by myself with the cook!!!). I kept hearing about all these rats that invaded the island-yuck!!! But then a kind soul told me the rats were no more, so I went. Again, lots of sea lions. A couple of Leopard seals, although we saw a lot more around McMurdo. That was another "must see" on my list. The air was thick with albatross (they follow the boats). I was also surprised to see a couple of Southern elephant seals up in the grassy areas by the beach. I didn't realize they left the beach-that is where I had always seen them before. I was also surprised to see how green it was after all the barren snow, ice and rocks.

 

There were two REALLY rough spots-when we were breaking ice through the Amundsen sea getting to McMurdo and in the Southern Ocean going to Campbell Island. I got to go up in the helicopter for a very long time while they were breaking the ice-that was probably the highlight of the trip other than actually walking around McMurdo. I was simply fascinated-lots were sick of both the noise and the crashing. My older cabin mate was getting pretty exhausted from the crashing and spent a lot of time in the cabin. The Southern Ocean blew up a pretty good storm and the ship was rocking and rolling. Lots of green faces. Thank goodness, I am an adrenaline junkie and live for that stuff.

 

All in all, one spectacular experience. I KNOW I could never do a drive by cruise-there is just too much out there to see up close and personal. Sorry I missed your questions earlier.

 

Thank you so much for your response. What an adventure and unforgettable experience! I know I'm not that brave.

 

Dry Valleys sounds fascinating. My knowledge of Antarctica is lacking, although I've recently read an interesting book on a walking adventure. (I must admit the photo of the naked walker dragging a sleigh across the snow was what originally caught my attention!!)

 

I was interested in your opinions, because you don't get many people on CC who have visited the islands south of NZ or Antarctica, from this part of the world.

 

I had been told that the seas can be very rough.

 

I absolutely love albatrosses. We were fortunate to see a sole albatross land and take off near our boat in the middle of the ocean near beautiful Lord Howe Island. Prior to that I'd just seen them flying.

 

I recently saw a travel agency advertisement, which included a call for someone to share with another lady at $19,000 on the Orion for an Aus/NZ antarctica cruise.

 

There also is an Orion cruise from Hobart, Tasmania to NZ, which just visits the islands, prior to their Antarctica cruises.

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