Cost of small ship vs larger ship

[beth555]

I read about the cruises to the antarctic and have decided that we would like to do a trip in 2010. My son who will be 16 by then has always wanted to do the antarctic and when I started reading more and more I realized it would be a trip of a lifetime. So I started looking at the ships for 3 of us. We are pretty much set on Dec 2010 since my son will have 2 weeks off from school (and miss an additional one).The next question was a small ship or large. We would prefer the smaller ship where we can get off but the cost is considerably more. If we decided to just do the antarctic we would like to also add South Georgia which adds days and cost but we thought if we were going we should see it all. The trip is almost 4x the cost of a larger ship. The HAL does a South American trip and cruises through the antartica. While you don't get off (a real downside) we don't have to sail through the drake pass twice (I heard this can be rough seas) and we also will see some of South America a plus for us. We also looked at the Fram, Quark and Prince Albert II for the 20 day smaller ship. You certainly see much more wildlife. For those who have done the larger ship did you feel let down because you never landed in antarctica? For those on the smaller ships taking the Zodiac to land did you feel you had too much time in one place. I see that S Georgia and antarctic you spend 3 days at least at each place. I assume this is to make sure (with weather conditions) that you have an opportunity to get off and explore.

[Kingsbridge]

I went on HAL's Ms. Amsterdam in Dec 2008 and had a wonderful time. I didn't feel deprived because I didn't get off. The visual impact of Antarctica is stunning, even on a large ship. We saw fabulous scenery, lots of penguins floating by on icebergs, some whales, lots of birds, etc. We had pretty calm weather even through the Drake Passage and one snowy day in Antarctica and two sunny days. Our cruise didn't stop at South Georgia but we did stop at the Falkland Islands and I took the Volunteer Point excursion and it was just great to walk among the different colonies of penguins, especially the Kings. Of course there is a huge King Penguin colony on South Georgia but there were plenty to see at Volunteer Point. HAL did an excellent job with lecturers and an onboard visit from the staff at the Palmer Station. The big ships have stabilizers which helps if the seas do get rough.

[Piepkorn]

My wife and I are Diamond on RCCL, and decided to visit Antarctica in February on a small ship (Polar Pioneer - beyond the Antarctic Circle trip). And from the standpoint of having taken a small boat there, it isn't a cruise. The small ship excursions are more of an adventure, and it took a physical toll on both my DW and I. But we don't regret it for a second. It was a trip of a lifetime.

 

On a large ship you will not have the experience of coming up on 2 sleeping humpback whales: http://images45.fotki.com/v1440/fileF8Qr/69131/6/963346/7328673/DSCN7328.jpg

 

We were lucky on our trip, as we where able to make every landing they planned.

 

No matter which way you decide to do it, you will develop a greater appreciation for wildlife. If you decide on a large ship 'sail-by', invest in a really nice set of binoculars.

 

Dave

[diebroke]

The expedition ships & the cruise ships to Antarctica are two completely different experiences. My sense from reading these boards is that for the most part, everybody is happy with the decision they made and everybody has a memorable experience. I am unaware of anyone who has done both & can compare them.

We chose the expedition option & as you suggest, it was the trip of a lifetime.

For us, if cost or time were an issue, we would choose a shorter expedition option over a drive-by option and skip the Falklands. We do take trips on cruise ships & enjoy the sea days, but experiencing Antarctica up close & personal was indescrible (at least by me.)

I am unaware of expedition ships that spend 3 days at one location. Our ship would stop for a few hours for landings but the rest of the time, the ship was moving, even at "night" (it doesn't get dark.) We covered a lot of ground, including crossing the Antarctic Circle.

You also mention the Drake. For some of us, experiencing the Drake when it is fierce is an exciting part of the experience & we are disappointed if it is calm. My wife would strongly differ with me on the Drake experience.

Another condideration is that it is my understanding that the larger cruise ships don't follow the same itinerary as the smaller ice reinforced expedition ships. Some of our cruising highlights include narrow passages & ice filled inlets where the larger ships are unable to go.

My suggestion is to read some of the on-board blogs. This one is about a cruise on Lindblad's National Geographic Endeavor http://www.cruisecritic.com/virtual/virtual.cfm?ID=29

And this one is on board the Minerva

Part 1: Drake Passage

Part 2: Penguin Island

Part 3: Arctowski Research Station

Part 4: Mikkelsen Harbour

Part 5: Neko Harbour & Cierva Cove

Part 6: Deception Island & Half Moon Island

 

If they excite you, you will really enjoy the expedition ship. If budget only allows a large cruise ship or if the landings don't seem that special or if you are unable to physically make the landings, I am sure you will enjoy the large ship option.

[maztoz]

Visiting Antarctica as a sixteen year old and missing out on the opportunity to hike up a snowy slope, slide down on you bum, hang out with the penguins, wallow in a steamy bath of volcanic water, swim in the icy sea, have your zodiac chased and bitten by a rambunctious Leopard seal....

I am in complete agreement with Diebroke, there is simply no comparison to be made. Given a tight budget I'd skip South Georgia, go 3 to a cabin, skip vacation for a couple years, clip coupons, take cold showers, walk to work... whatever it takes to get on a smaller ship and make the landings. It is worth making sacrifices to experience this transcendent place up close and for extended periods.

Have you looked into the less expensive Russian vessels?

Excellent review here:

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=531528

[minke]

sorry to say but all ships i/c HAL Sth America + antarctic driveby have to cross the Drake twice, having said that, as others have said the drake can be an experience "not to be missed". I was dissapointed it was not rougher when I went. I would also speak up for the Fram, their "polarCirkel" boats are far superior & easier to get in/out of than the zodiacs others use. Finally december is a good time to go in my opinion, more snow & ice about so it looks like the real Antarctica. Some photos I see taken in jan/feb have bigger penguin chicks with not much else except "penguin poo" around them! My review of my dec06 Nordkapp sailing in in member reviews section.

[beth555]

You all give good compelling reasons to see the antartica up close and on land especially Maztoz. Thanks. My husbands thought behind the whole drive by was that hopefully one day we would return and get off the ship. But with so many places that we would love to visit in our lifetime I am not so sure. So I thought a good compromise was to do the shorter trip as this would really cut down on cost. However my husband really wants to go to South Georgia. Mainly because he was very inspired by the whole Shackleton expedition. So I am still looking at the longer trip and just have to give up the vacation we had planned the following year. I do have a year and a half after all. I did look at the Quark. Fram and even the Prince Albert II. Seeing that they may only allow 100 passengers on land at one time the Fram seems big. The quark ships range from small to about 122 and the the prince Albert II is about 122. If that is the case do individuals need to stay back (I think the Fram is over 200 passengers isn't it)? I would consider size if that is the case. Also for those who went to S Georgia and Falklands was that the highlight of your trip? Everytime I look on line at videos it seems it is of S Georgia. I realize it takes longer to get there. I believe this is the only place to see the king pengins.

[freddie]

Beth - Whilst I enthusiastically echo the sentiments expressed in the first sentence of Maztoz' post concerning creating remarkable memories for your son, I disagree that South Georgia is skippable (unless there is not any other way to do the trip). The visits to South Georgia (five landings and one zodiac cruise) were the highlights of our 18-day cruise on The Hanseatic. Seeing a few king penguins in the Falklands is not remotely like being in the middle of a half-million of them, as you would do on South Georgia. Further, the visit to South Georgia does indeed give special understanding to the Skackleton saga, as it both began and ended there.

 

On the expedition ships that carry over 100 passengers, the landings are done in two stages, usually allowing a group to stay on land an hour or two before the next one comes ashore. That was always plenty of time for us. We made 14 landings on our trip and never felt rushed.

 

The PAII has some good promotional pricing at the moment, which might be worth a view. We loved the Hanseatic; but now that the PAII is going to that part of the world, we would prefer it to the Hanseatic because the latter is primarily geared to German-speakers.

 

Have fun choosing your ship and itinerary.

 

Cheers, Fred

[maztoz]

...and I enthusiastically echo Freddies's remarks. We longed to see South Georgia, but in our case time was the limiting factor. I only meant to suggest that if it were the only way..... I'm a huge fan of the Shakelton saga, a big fan of Amundsen too.... (Scott not so much :rolleyes:) By the time we traveled I had read everything and was happier for having done so. Once you get there, it's all about the wildlife. (Perhaps someday we'll commune with the Kings...sigh)

You'll find a way to make it happen, and if it means giving up a vacation, so be it. It is worth the sacrifice tenfold.

Instead of a "real" trip we went to the Grand Canyon and had a Grand time . :)

[Jade13]

However my husband really wants to go to South Georgia. Mainly because he was very inspired by the whole Shackleton expedition. .

 

Well, on Minerva we saw where Shackletons men landed and lived for months. You don't see that in South Georgia as they landed on Elephant Island.

 

In fact, the Shackleton Bar on the ship is filled with the photographs of that expedition and you will hear the story from the historian onboard.

[tupper10]

We had the same thoughts and then what we did is really look at what we wanted to do. We thought of this as a once in a lifetime trip so if we were paying 10,000 (with air) for two of us and not seeing what we wanted to was it worth it to wait and see what we wished to. We had first booked on a large ship but reading these boards and doing research convinced us that we wanted to do zodiac landings. With that it mind we decided what type of trip we could afford and where we wanted to go and what type of ship experience we wanted. It is a very personal decision. Given my research and because we couldn't take some of the longer trips we decided on the Prince Albert II and are going in Jan 2010. Good luck.

[2552phxcrzr]

Well, on Minerva we saw where Shackletons men landed and lived for months. You don't see that in South Georgia as they landed on Elephant Island.

 

The trips that go to South Georgia, do stop at Elephant Island (weather permitting) en route to the Peninsula. We were lucky with the weather and had two opportunities to land at Elephant Island. The first was a zodiac cruise at Point Wild where Shackleton's men waited for his return - we were able to get close enough to see the details of the small monument dedicated to Captain Yelcho of the Pardo, the ship that eventually rescued the men. The experience of going through the ice-crusted water at Elephant Island is one that is still vivid in my mind. The second was a landing at Cape Lookout where we spent a couple of hours visiting Gentoo and Chinstrap colonies.

 

Also lots of opportunities to relive bits and pieces of Shackleton history on South Georgia Island ... we did a zodiac cruise to Cape Rosa to see Cove Cave, where Shackleton and his 5 companions arrived after the grueling trip across the Scotia Sea and where 3 of his men stayed while he and 2 others trekked across SGI. There was an opportunity at Fortuna Bay to recreate the last portion of Shackleton's walk across South Georgia to Stromness Harbor. (Unfortunately, the trek had to be canceled due to low-lying fog.) We did, however, do a zodiac cruise around Stromness Harbor and saw the manager's house where Shackleton and his men finally concluded their harrowing experience. And of course, in Grytviken we visited Shackleton's grave and raised a toast to the Boss.

 

I'd encourage anyone who can manage the time and $$ investment to include SGI in the itinerary. It is a fabulously beautiful place with rugged mountains, glaciers flowing down from mountain tops to the edge of the sea, and immense numbers of wildlife from fur and elephant seals to a variety of penguins, including the kings. Standing amidst hundreds of thousands of kings - from adults to chicks - and seeing them stretch all the way out to the horizon at Salisbury Plain was a remarkable experience.

 

For photos: My extensive report is on the Antarctica board and already linked here by maztoz.

 

There's also a great report by Chris_GA_Atl at http://www.fodors.com/community/cruises/antarctica-the-falkland-islands-and-south-georgia-trip-report-and-pictures.cfm ... hope the link works since it is to another website.

[Jade13]

The trips that go to South Georgia, do stop at Elephant Island (weather permitting) en route to the Peninsula. We were lucky with the weather and had two opportunities to land at Elephant Island. The first was a zodiac cruise at Point Wild where Shackleton's men waited for his return - we were able to get close enough to see the details of the small monument dedicated to Captain Yelcho of the Pardo, the ship that eventually rescued the men. The experience of going through the ice-crusted water at Elephant Island is one that is still vivid in my mind. The second was a landing at Cape Lookout where we spent a couple of hours visiting Gentoo and Chinstrap colonies.

 

Also lots of opportunities to relive bits and pieces of Shackleton history on South Georgia Island ... we did a zodiac cruise to Cape Rosa to see Cove Cave, where Shackleton and his 5 companions arrived after the grueling trip across the Scotia Sea and where 3 of his men stayed while he and 2 others trekked across SGI. There was an opportunity at Fortuna Bay to recreate the last portion of Shackleton's walk across South Georgia to Stromness Harbor. (Unfortunately, the trek had to be canceled due to low-lying fog.) We did, however, do a zodiac cruise around Stromness Harbor and saw the manager's house where Shackleton and his men finally concluded their harrowing experience. And of course, in Grytviken we visited Shackleton's grave and raised a toast to the Boss.

 

I'd encourage anyone who can manage the time and $$ investment to include SGI in the itinerary. It is a fabulously beautiful place with rugged mountains, glaciers flowing down from mountain tops to the edge of the sea, and immense numbers of wildlife from fur and elephant seals to a variety of penguins, including the kings. Standing amidst hundreds of thousands of kings - from adults to chicks - and seeing them stretch all the way out to the horizon at Salisbury Plain was a remarkable experience.

 

For photos: My extensive report is on the Antarctica board and already linked here by maztoz.

 

There's also a great report by Chris_GA_Atl at http://www.fodors.com/community/cruises/antarctica-the-falkland-islands-and-south-georgia-trip-report-and-pictures.cfm ... hope the link works since it is to another website.

 

That sounds great. Which cruise ship were you on? We did not actually stop at Elephant Island but did a close "driveby" because we were ahead of schedule. I could see the monument and penguins. We did not have the time to go to South Georgia but I convinced myself it was OK because that trip on Minerva only had 3 days in Antarctica vs 5 or 6.

[2552phxcrzr]

At the time we went, Quark was operating a 48-pax vessel called Prof Molchanov ... the vessel has since been turned back over to the owners.

[Chris_GA_Atl]

I agree with the comments above that South Georgia was a highlight of our trip. Stunning landscapes, teeming with wildlife, and the history of the whaling stations and Shackleton -- South Georgia has something for all interests. Our cruise (which is detailed in the trip report that H2SO4 linked above -- thanks Erin) spent four days there and it was definitely the highlight of the trip for me.

 

Chris

[donaldsc]

You get what you pay for. Would you take a cruise to Europe and see England by cruising past the Tower of London w/o stopping? Would you do an east coast US tour and cruise up the Potomic River past Washington and not get off the ship to see Washington?

 

IMHO, the drive-by tours of Antarctica make as much sense!

 

DON

[dileep]

Well, on Minerva we saw where Shackletons men landed and lived for months. You don't see that in South Georgia as they landed on Elephant Island.

.

 

We are looking forward to being on the Minerva next January!

[redroses]

I did an Antartica cruise with landings in 07 and one important points is that with the landings, you are able to observe wildlife much closer. For example, one of our highlights was being on the Chilean naval base (I believe it was Paradise harbor) and watching the penguins.

 

Also with the zodiacs, you are much closer to the water and the icebergs.

[greatam]

Here is a pretty good list of cruises/expeditions available to Antarctica. I know nothing about the company nor am I endorsing them-just thought the list was inclusive of most ships sailing Antarctica

 

http://www.adventure-life.com/cruises/antarctica-cruises.

 

You really don't need "cruise ship luxuries" on an Antarctica cruise. You are looking at some very high priced ships. Look at the true expedition ships-often less expensive and a better experience with less passengers. Much more interaction with the naturalists on board. In fact, if you pick the right expedition ship, you do almost nothing but sleep in your cabin and eat. You are off the ship a good portion of the day.

 

I went on a true icebreaker-Kapitan Khlebnikov. 3 women in a VERY small cabin for 31 days. Few luxuries other than great food, great companions, and a great experience. That is what I went for-the chance to see McMurdo, the Dry Valleys and other places few see. Would I have traded a luxury cruise ship for the sparse accommodations on a very loud, rough riding icebreaker???? NO WAY. Truly the trip of a lifetime.

[dileep]

We used Adventure Life for our Galapagos cruise and Machu Picchu trip. WE found a cruise that we liked better than the one they offered and they booked us on it.

 

They are fairly easy to deal with. We did contact them for Antarica, and they suggested a cruise only package instead of one that had 2 nights hotel in BA as a way of saving about $1000.

 

If you use them once, you get 5% discount on subsequent trips.

[MMDown Under]

Here is a pretty good list of cruises/expeditions available to Antarctica. I know nothing about the company nor am I endorsing them-just thought the list was inclusive of most ships sailing Antarctica

 

http://www.adventure-life.com/cruises/antarctica-cruises.

 

You really don't need "cruise ship luxuries" on an Antarctica cruise. You are looking at some very high priced ships. Look at the true expedition ships-often less expensive and a better experience with less passengers. Much more interaction with the naturalists on board. In fact, if you pick the right expedition ship, you do almost nothing but sleep in your cabin and eat. You are off the ship a good portion of the day.

 

I went on a true icebreaker-Kapitan Khlebnikov. 3 women in a VERY small cabin for 31 days. Few luxuries other than great food, great companions, and a great experience. That is what I went for-the chance to see McMurdo, the Dry Valleys and other places few see. Would I have traded a luxury cruise ship for the sparse accommodations on a very loud, rough riding icebreaker???? NO WAY. Truly the trip of a lifetime.

 

Would love to hear more about your 31 day trip of a lifetime. Is this the cruise which finishes in NZ? If so, did you visit the islands south of NZ? Did you travel with 2 friends or did you share your cabin?

[greatam]

Would love to hear more about your 31 day trip of a lifetime. Is this the cruise which finishes in NZ? If so, did you visit the islands south of NZ? Did you travel with 2 friends or did you share your cabin?

 

Yes, ended in NZ. Enderby and Campbell Islands. Went by myself. DH thought I was nuts and refused to go. So I asked the cruise line if they could find cabin companions. Yes, they did-2 other women-one fairly young (early 30's) who was a nature photographer and one my age (late 50's) who just wanted to see what we saw, same as me. It was pretty crowded in the cabin but we all got along OK.

 

It was truly a once in a lifetime trip (if for no other reason than the cost). But I wanted to see McMurdo-I had been offered a job there shortly after I graduated from college. I chickened out-went to live in Hawaii for a year instead. I have always wondered what I missed and where life may have taken me if I had gone to McMurdo for that job.

 

And I wanted to see the Dry Valleys. Only accessible by helicopter or snow cat + feet. Helicopter was MUCH easier. Something like only 2500 people in the whole world have ever been there. Pretty special experience.

 

I had just sold one of my rental properties. I had a few extra bucks. I work 65-80 hours per week every week without much time off. I told myself I deserved to spend the money. DH is still questioning that judgment, but I had one heck of a time.

[Louise22]

I think I may have suggested www.expeditiontrips.com previously. They have some very good prices on a variety of small ships. You have to sign in to get the "Just Released Specials". I have used them quite a few times and they are excellent.

[diebroke]

greatam, when you get to the old folks home & reflect back on your life, do you think you will regret your decision to make this trip or do you think you will remember it with pleasure, perhaps even celebrate it?

I'll go out on a limb & suggest that if you had decided to not make this trip, you might spend time in the old folks home regretting your decision.

Somebody famous (Mark Twain?) said we spend more time regretting what we didn't do than what we did. That's sad.

Your DH needs to get over it.

[freddie]

Gina (Greatam) - I am so pleased to read that you chose to take the not-even-close-to-cheap cruise on the KK. Indeed, it is really quite expensive, particularly when one throws in the cost of getting to and from the Antipodes from the U.S. In the future, when you chide me for my extravagance in staying at such places as Sanctuary Lodge at Machu Picchu and Monasterio in Cusco, I will be able to recall that you splurged on the most expensive ship to Antarctica. The KK is even more expensive than the ship we took, the Hanseatic, which is indeed a small luxury expedition ship.

 

Our trip, on the other side of Antarctica from yours, was the best trip we've taken in our 34 years of travel together. However, it did not go to the very special and very remote places you visited. I tried to convince my DP (is Dear Partner a CC term??) to consider the KK; but he was emphatic that a Russian icebreaker was not going to work for him. Therefore, we looked at landing-intensive cruises on small luxury ships, concluding that the Hanseatic was the best choice. As it turned out, the cruise was marvelous, with 14 excellent landings, including several on South Georgia Island amongst hundreds of thousands of King penguins. Totally magical.

 

I remain determined to see the other side of Antactica, which would likely require a trip on the KK. By the way, you must be the only reviewer of that ship to describe the food as "great". Every other review I've found (as well as the personal opinions of the three people I've known who have gone on that ship) considered the food to be adequate food prepared by a decent Russian cook and no more than that. Nonetheless, my friends loved the trip and recommend it highly (just not for the grub).

 

Thanks for another interesting insight into the adventure on the Kapitan Klebnikov.

 

Cheers, Fred