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Celebrity Silhouette Adriatic Cruise Review Ocotber 31


Blazerboy
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Hello, all,

 

Here's my review of our recent cruise. A GREAT cruise overall. I've tried to answer some of the questions that often come up when someone posts a review, but feel free to ask more/others.

 

Thanks,

Andrew

 

Celebrity Cruise, October 31st, 2013

 

Cruise: Adriatic, Venice to Rome

 

Ship: Silhouette

 

Other Ports: Koper, Slovenia, Ravenna, Italy, Split, Croatia, Dubrovnik, Croatia, Kotor, Montenegro, Bari, Italy, Corfu, Greece, Valletta, Malta, Cantania, Sicily, Naples, Italy.

 

Ship’s Officers/Staff that we met:

 

Captain Demetrius Kafetsis

Captain’s Club Hostess- Jane

Cruise Director- Lisa

Activities Director- Trevor

 

Cabin: 7215, A1 Category, on the hump with a large, forward-facing verandah

 

Flights: Choice Air- Swiss International SFO to Zurich to Venice, Lufthansa from Rome to SFO via Munich. We didn’t upgrade…big mistake for the outbound flight.

 

Dinner: Late Seating, Table of 8, table 346

 

Perks: We did get the “Pick your Perk” promotion, and, as it was a European cruise, we were able to choose two perks (classic drink package and on-board credit). We upgraded prior to the cruise to the Premium beverage package for $11.50 per day including tip. Our friends upgraded on board, and were charged the same, despite the reports on here that it would be more expensive to upgrade once on board.

 

Roll call: There were a few hundred people on our roll call and probably too many to really coalesce into one group. We had the usual debate about what roll calls should be, and, in the end, each of the two camps (Get-to-know-folks vs. Shore-Excursion-Info-Only) seemed to get what they needed. We were really fortunate to have Monica on our roll call- Compass Monica Rose- who created a great and informative website. (She was a lot of fun, too!) We met about a dozen or so folks from the roll call, and they became our ‘posse.’ Good folks, all.

 

Us: Gay couple, 51/45, live in San Francisco Bay Area, have been sailing with Celebrity for a dozen years or so, with 11 cruises on their ships and 28 cruises overall. We are into food and use that as a way to experience other cultures. We traveled with a couple we met on Celebrity 8 years ago, Joel and Marjorie, and have been cruising with them ever since.

 

Choice Air: Swiss International is the phoenix from the ashes of Swiss Air. While the flight was o.k., and the service was fine, the seats were even closer together in coach than most airlines- I wouldn’t recommend this airline for a 10.5 hour flight, especially if you are tall. It is in the Star Alliance, so upgrading with United points should be possible…but I was being ‘careful’ (read ‘cheap’).

 

The return flight on Lufthansa was much better, both because we had more room in Coach, and because I didn’t try so hard to sleep.

 

Pre-cruise: We arrived in Venice at 9:00 at night, so decided to stay near the airport rather than schlep into Venice proper. We stayed at the Annia Park Hotel, minutes from the airport, with free shuttle to and from the airport. We were exhausted, so were grateful to find a clean room, with attractive décor and vaulted ceilings- modern Italian farmhouse style. The bathroom was very nice- no tub, but a shower that was roomy with a rainfall shower head, and all the essentials provided, including a bidet (as a child, I always wondered why the second toilet didn’t have a toilet seat on it!). The hotel was quiet, even with its location, and we couldn’t hear the noise of the road or airport. There was an attractive restaurant with simple dishes, perfect for our late arrival. I wouldn’t go out of my way to stay here- it’s not a ‘destination’ hotel. You wouldn’t stay here if you wanted to go back and forth to the island of Venice. It is ideal for a late arrival or early departure from Venice Airport. Service was terrific, too. Finally, we were going to have them take us back to the airport to catch the local bus to Piazzelle Roma, and they told us to take the local bus up the street instead. It saved us 10 Euro, and the shuttle driver even drove us to the bus stop, although it was a short walk.

 

Embarkation: SO easy. The ship overnighted in Venice, and we’d stayed outside, so took the local bus from the hotel to Piazzelle Roma, and walked across the square to the People Mover. For 1 Euro, it took us the rest of the way to the port. As the ship was in the first birth, it was very easy to do on our own. The ride on the People Mover is very short, but to walk would be difficult given the canals, streets and traffic, so the PM was worth it. We arrived at the pier, dropped our luggage and checked in. We had enough time to ask about our drink package and chat with one couple before they allowed us to board. An inexcusable delay! ;)

 

Ship’s Appearance: The ship was in great shape, and we had no issues with cleanliness or maintenance. I’d read a review of the ship prior to boarding that complained of poor service, especially in the aft deck of buffet area. I had breakfast on the aft deck most mornings, and one morning saw a table that needed bussing behind me. I laughed when I turned back a few seconds later and the table was clear. Not only were the staff clearing tables quickly, they were doing it in stealth mode!

 

Captain’s Club and Elite Events: Because there’s been so much debate on here about the value of the Elite events, I just wanted to mention that we DID go to the Elite cocktail hour, and even drank the ‘free’ offerings, despite having the premium beverage package. I know, I know, we could have ordered ‘premium’ beverages there, but were fine with the beverages offered. It really is a nice respite from the ship as a whole, and has a different feel- quieter, civilized. (O.k., so we were also the ones who had a snowball fight with the bartender at the Martini Bar. I’m sure someone will post that as a reason that they shouldn’t offer beverage packages, despite the fact that we did this after just one drink.:o)

 

Food: We dined the first night at the Lawn Club Grill- they gave a generous discount, which made the choice a no-brainer. Milan and Igor took great care of us (especially after a few martinis in the Martini Bar!) Food was wonderful, and making our own flatbread an adventure! A great way to start the cruise, especially with the overnight in Venice. (Yes, we’d originally intended on dining ashore, but, with the aforementioned martinis, probably best not to stumble around Venetian canals in the dark!)

 

The second night, we went to the dining room. We were traveling with our friends from New York, but opted for a table for eight. We arrived and there were two couples, one from England and another from Southern California, and both delightful- we quickly bonded. Phew, no need to change tables!

 

We ended up talking with the (incredibly nice and helpful) assistant maître d’, Daniel, who arranged for our whole table to dine again at Lawn Club Grill, and it was even more fun the second time. Other than that, we dined in the MDR for the rest of the cruise. We are ‘food centric’ and have had many cruises where we mostly dined in the specialty restaurants, as we didn’t think that much of the MDR. Not the case on this cruise. We found the food really good, including many of the seafood and pasta dishes, where the dining room usually falls short. Tuna Carpaccio and Blue Cheese Soufflé were two favorites.

 

We mostly had lunches ashore, as this was a port intensive cruise, but did enjoy the burger bar a few times. Those who’ve cruised with me before know that I like to find ways to innovate with the food- my favorite on warm weather cruises is to take two of the fresh baked cookies from the buffet and go the ice cream counter and get a scoop of ice cream- best ice cream sandwiches! This cruise, I took some of the blue cheese from the buffet up to the burger bar, and had them make me an incredible blue cheese burger with sautéed mushrooms!

Breakfast was fresh baked whole grain breads, Edam cheese and Smoked Salmon. (Yes, they had Smoked Salmon every morning, unlike previous cruises when there was sometimes Whitefish or Herring, and no salmon.)

 

And fresh squeezed orange juice (love that drink package!).

 

Drinks, Bars and Bar Service: As mentioned, we had the drink package, and it was well worth it. We upgraded to the premium package, with the justification that one martini or one glass of dessert wine in the MDR would cost the same as upgrading. Once again, I’d read about service issues with the package, but we noticed no problem. We had excellent service in the Martini Bar, around the pool, and in the dining room. In fact, service in the MDR was really great from the Sommelier. We were well taken care of by Kristina, with nary an empty glass, and some great recommendations- Gruner Veltliner being one of my new faves. Having the upgraded package definitely helped with the choices of wine by the glass. We also drank a LOT of bottled water, vitamin water, and other ‘pay’ items that were included with the package. If we had to pay for the package, it would definitely be worth it. Special mention must go to the staff at the Martini Bar, especially Alin. He was entertaining and talented with a cocktail shaker. And took very (too good?) care of us.:D

 

Stateroom: We lucked out getting the large verandah on the hump on Deck 7, port side. Once again, I’d heard bad things about cabins on the port side above the smoking deck. We did not smell any smoke from this verandah…ever. We really liked the location near the elevators- I really liked the design that kept any noise from the elevator lobbies from the nearby cabins. We also really liked how near it was to the “Hideaway,” a great feature to get a quick cup of tea or coffee. Our cabin staff were of the stealth variety, but efficient. Until I ordered room service, I really hadn’t talked with them, but both were attentive and thorough. The only issues we had: storage on S class ships isn’t what it is on M class, but we managed. Also, there’s a closet in the hallway for the cabin attendants, and I did hear the door open and close. Not a big deal for us, but if you’re sensitive to noise, it might bother you. Then again, I’ve heard friends complain about their neighbors’ door slamming, so maybe this was better.

 

Entertainment: We’re not big on ship’s entertainment, so aren’t the best ones to review. We did see the “Sin City” show- comedians and burlesque. It was o.k., but the target audience for the humor was more 80 than 50…and the burlesque? Well, not aimed at us, needless to say, although the performer was very pretty and fit…We also went to the captain’s lecture about navigation- very entertaining, both because of the information, and the fact that Captain Demetrius has a great sense of humor! We saw some of the dancing in the atrium, which was fun. Even with the one woman who thought she danced like Ginger Rogers, but actually danced like Elaine Benis. Frightening. I intended to go to the Cirque-style show, but missed it.

 

Shore Excursions/Ports: We did our own thing in most ports, preferring to find our own way using taxis and local buses (or walking/hiking, which we did a lot.) We did use the ship’s shuttle in one port, and took one ‘transfer’ to do a seaside village on our own. Other than that, we used the Berlitz guide to Mediteranean ports, the roll call here and the port lectures to figure out what we wanted to do and how to do it. We saved a LOT of money by using local buses and often got more out of port visits by not being dependent on ship buses or waiting on other passengers. We did rent a car in one port, and it worked out really well- I don’t mind driving in Italy at all (and like getting my ‘international driving permit’ to feel very “Bond, James Bond.”)

 

Koper- we took the local bus to Piran, and wandered the village. We hiked up to the church above the port, and then up to the ramparts for a stunning view of the coast. We had a lovely meal at a seaside restaurant, and then did a little shopping- cute shop that sold Slovenian Sea Salt. Joel managed to get his tablet working with wi-fi, and did some translating for the waiter, who spoke no English (‘Don’t let the bald guy order any Russian Caviar!’) The waiter would listen to the translation, and then laugh. A great experience, and wonderful fresh Prawn pasta. We then took the bus back, wandering the street of the old town of Koper.

 

Ravenna- we did take the ship’s port transfer here, as the port is quite a distance from the town. We got a ticket to the five major sites to see all the mosaic works in the churches, basilicas and the archeological museum- entrance to all five was eleven Euros, a good deal. The mosaics are beautiful, and the basilicas and sites worth the visit.

 

Split- A tender port, and the one day with rough weather. The downside was the delay in getting into port. The upside was that the tender dropped us right in town, and right near the entrance to old town/Diocletian’s Palace. We went to the church inside the gates, and watched a great performance of 10 or so male singers. We shopped and wandered and found amazing chocolate shops, some fun wine and liqueurs and a pretty carved stone bowl that now graces a table in my living room. As we’d been below on the rough ride in, Joel and I decided to be brave and go up top on the tender on the way back to the ship. After about five minutes, they pulled the tender into the wind, and allowed Joel and I to skulk down the companionway to join the others, soaked, and to a round of laughter. Still, an adventure!

 

Dubrovnik: We thought about taking the ship’s shuttle for $12.00 each, but were able to get a local cab for the four of us for 10 Euros. The port is several miles away for ships this large, but they have a sign that states the fixed fare to the old town. Even with the round trip, we saved quite a bit. We hiked the wall of the old town first, with amazing view of both the interior and of the port. We then wandered through the village and saw the must-see sights, shopped and headed for lunch. We ate at the Café Dubravka 1863 right outside the Pile Gate, and were seated just before the monsoon! Glad we weren’t hiking the wall at that point. A great meal with two bottles of local wine while we waited for the rains to subside, and then back to the ship. Not taking the shuttle paid for our wine!

 

Kotor, Montenegro: We’d been warned to get up early for the sail-in, and were glad we did. Kotor is at the end of a long Fjord-like inlet, and the scenery is fantastic. Given the rough tender experience in Split, this tender experience was easy and calm, and dropped us off right in the village of Kotor. We’d heard about the ‘hike up to the fortress’ above the town, and stood in awe of the reality. I bravely agreed to do, but committed only to hike to the church halfway up to the summit. We huffed and puffed, and, amazingly, went all the way up to the fortification. A red flag marked the peak, and when we returned to the ship, I was amazed at the height! The funny thing was that we ran into several other cruisers who did this, and laughed that we pointed in amazement at things like cows, transferring our pride at the hike to these simple creatures doing their everyday routine, as though being a cow on a hillside was a major accomplishment. But that’s us…modest. Took only half the time to go back down, and we rewarded ourselves with a large lunch late in the afternoon on the ship. The walled town was, once again, charming.

 

Bari, Italy: We’d originally been intending to go to Puglia and rent a Trullo with our friends, so, when this cruise came up, we knew we had to go to Alberobello to see the Trulli houses (Unesco World Heritage Site). We rented a car from Hertz, rather than use the ship’s tour, and, once again, probably came out ahead (or at least had our bottle of Primativo at lunch paid for). After a few starts and stops, I guided us in our Opel Astra wagon through the countryside to Alberobello. We did see the ship’s tours there, but realized that they didn’t get to spend much time there. We were able to explore the town, take LOTS of photos, and shop, followed by an amazing lunch in a basement restaurant that used to be an olive oil pressing factory. The treat was an appetizer of local bacon wrapped around mozzarella. There was some grousing from someone about not getting enough of the Caprese salad, but we ignored Joel. Fascinating town, and so nice to go at our own pace. Driving is easy in Italy, but there is a lot of ‘visual clutter’ for a non-native to deal with. Fortunately, Marjorie was a great navigator, and the peanut gallery in the back seat kept quiet, for the most part.

 

Corfu, Greece: A lovely view of the port from the Ship, as I was having a “sea day” to recover from the pace of both ports and martinis. Ed went into town with our friends and had another amazing day with local wine, food, and shopping. And Joel got enough tomatoes this time! I’d been there 35 years ago, and wished I was up for the return, but will leave that on a future visit list.

 

At last a day at sea, and I rested up for:

 

Valletta, Malta: We’d planned, based on on-line reviews and posts here to take the local bus to M’dina to see the walled capital. The stories of the local bus drivers having shrines on the dashboards of their 1950’s era buses and taking both their hands off the wheel to genuflect when passing a church made this a ‘must do.’ When we arrived at the port, we took the elevator for 1 Euro up to the old town, and were headed to the bus terminal, when we heard a marching band. Ed and Joel raced ahead like two school boys with their backpacks on, and Marjorie and I followed. Turned out to be the “Remembrance Day” celebration at St. John’s Church, and both the president and prime minister showed up to review the marching band and troops before a service in the church. Unlike the US, the president arrived in an ancient Daimler Princess Limousine with worn leather, and hopped out to greet the crowd… we stood about five feet away from him. An amazing, serendipitous event, and lots of fun to see. We then headed to the bus terminal. Much to our disappointment, since those charming reports of the buses, the Island has replaced them all with a modern fleet of buses, with no dashboard shrines in sight! That said, it was an easy 20 minute bus ride to M’dina and Rabat. We toured M’dina on our own, and then wandered over to Rabat, where we stumbled upon a festival to support local charities, including selling donuts (Ed bought one) and a classic Mustang show. Seemed really incongruous, but there you go. Local bus back to Valletta, where we toured the old town, saw the new and old St. Elmo’s Forts, and then found a great place for lunch in a square off Republic Street- Café Condita…charming, and great food. Our total tour cost: 3 Euros, 20 cents apiece, versus the ship’s tour. Once again, free lunch!

 

Catania, Sicily: We decided to give in and take the ship’s transfer to go to Taormina, and had a great experience- our ‘guide’ for the ride, Sara, was charming, and we chatted with her about her work. We arrived in the small hill town, with Mt. Etna in the distance (and in the clouds). I realized that it had been 40 years, almost to the day, since I’d been there. I even managed to spy the hotel and beach where I played as a young teen down in Taormina Mare. We wandered the village, visited the public gardens and then went to the Greco/Roman Amphitheater, which was amazing. We found a great spot for lunch, again with local wine, and enjoyed the view of the coast. One thing we noticed was that we kept feeling something hit our face. Ed and Joel complained about the ‘bugs’ that kept landing on them. We finally figured out that it wasn’t bugs, but small pieces of volcanic ash from Mt. Etna. We laughed and ‘dusted’ ourselves off. We did here the rumblings of the volcano, and heard that the lava flow was visible from the ship that night. Of course, as I write this, Mt. Etna has erupted yesterday with great fanfare, and we were just there!

 

Naples, Italy: Last day before we disembarked, so we planned on a lighter day. We decided to go to Ercolano to see the ruins of Herculaneum, also covered when Vesuvius destroyed Pompeii . And, once again, we decided not to spend 40 or 50 dollars on a tour. We walked through rush-hour traffic to the central train station, and, for 2 Euros, 20 cents each way, were able to take the local train to Ercolano. A short walk down the hill from the train station, we went into the site- a really amazing piece of history, and an interesting contrast to Pompeii, as the site wasn’t burned by flowing lava, but covered and preserved by a layer of mud. We wandered around, avoiding the tours, and saw so many amazing spaces, frescoes and parts of ancient culture. We then went to a local restaurant, where Ed wanted a local Vesuvian specialty, Pizza Fritta. Small little balls of pizza dough, studded with herbs. The host assured us (or so we thought) that the restaurant had this, so we sat down. When we ordered, no such thing was available. The waiter, seeing the disappointment on Ed’s face, came back a few minutes later with a small donut-sized piece of dough with basil and marinara. Not ‘pizza fritta’ but darned good!!! After another wonderful meal, we took the local train back to Naples, feeling very smug about traveling like the locals, and wandered back the ship. Our table mates did an all day tour of Pompeii, Sorrento, and the Amalfi Coast, and said that, since large tour buses couldn’t go along the coast and into the villages, they were in a van for 12, which sounded much nicer that the usual 50 people on a bus. Naples is an ‘acquired’ taste- gritty and urban, but the area has so much to offer.

 

Rome and Disembarkation: As mentioned above, the plane part of the trip was better on return, but I have to say that the disembarkation process was SO SMOOTH. We went to breakfast, told Joel and Marjorie that we’d meet them at the departure lounge, and they called our luggage number before we had a chance to sit down. We were through customs and out at our waiting van in minutes (Bob’s Limo. Marjorie booked it, but we were very impressed.) A quick ride to the airport- we left the ship at 8:00 a.m. and were at the airport at 9:00, well ahead of our 12:15 flight.

 

Summary: A wonderful trip, one of our best on Celebrity, and so sad that it’s over. The ship, staff, food and company were all terrific, and we wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the ship and itinerary, except to warn folks about the port intensity. If you’ve been to a few of these ports before, and could take a “sea day” as I did, it would make for a more relaxing vacation.

 

Andrew

Edited by Blazerboy
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Thanks for taking the time to write and post this review with so much helpful information. Hoping to take this cruise in June 2014 so know we will use your port tips!

 

Love your humor and am glad that there are others who spend too much time at the Martini Bar with the premium package :)

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Andrew -

 

Many thanks for such an outstanding review. We're seriously considering a similar cruise next spring and your tips and observations will be so helpful in making decisions. Even after 6 Mediterranean cruises, the ones to the Adriatic offer 8 ports that we've yet to visit.

 

It seems that you and Ed approach the ports as we do, mixing organized excursions with DIY. I agree, driving in Italy is easier than one might expect. The train trip from Naples might be a hard sell for me, though, but I adore travelling like a local. It's a much richer experience than the repetitive on-off-wait for the others routine, that you do on ship's excursions. But we've appreciated the shuttles into the various cities. Having seen the major sites from Naples and hiked Mt. Vesuvius, I'm dying to go to Herculaneum. I have an old dog-eared article from a Gourmet magazine on the mosaics of Ravenna. Been trying to get there for years but it's a little tricky on a day trip from Venice and we've just never made it there. So, this cruise would fulfill a dream for me.

 

Also happy to hear your observations of Silhouette. We've only been on Equinox, (a T/A 2 years ago) and are dying to experience the Lawn Club. We were also glad to read that you were happy to have the premium drinks package even though you enjoyed the elite lounge. On our T/A we went there a few times and had fun with the bartenders and a few of the guests. But we like to mix it up. Your creativity with the ice cream sandwiches and burgers are admirable! Will keep those ideas in mind, for sure.

 

Thanks again for such a helpful and objective review.

 

Mary Anne

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Those who’ve cruised with me before know that I like to find ways to innovate with the food- my favorite on warm weather cruises is to take two of the fresh baked cookies from the buffet and go the ice cream counter and get a scoop of ice cream- best ice cream sandwiches! This cruise, I took some of the blue cheese from the buffet up to the burger bar, and had them make me an incredible blue cheese burger with sautéed mushrooms!

That's one of the best tips I've ever read here. :-)

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Great review....how many formal nights?

 

Three formal nights. High degree of compliance with late seating for formal attire, not as much with the 6:00 pm crowd. They did not, as sometimes reported, make one of the formal nights 'semi-formal.' Tux was a little tight by the third evening...;)

 

Andrew

 

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Huh, a snowball fight in the Martini Bar after 1 drink. Just shows you are a cheap drunk.;)

Otherwise, we did that cruise in May on the Silhouette, and we had a very similar experience. A wonderful cruise.

I am glad you enjoyed your cruise, and thanks for the review.

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Small details, to me, make a review so much more interesting -- and thought provoking for planning. Especially like the tip of the blue cheese burger with mushrooms...yummy, one of my favorites (if you add the bacon :) )

 

Thanks for sharing.

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Andrew - I really enjoyed reading the review of your Silhouette cruise.

As you know we disembarked as you embarked and we also loved every minute of our cruise. It was one of the best we have done.

 

We did the same cruise last year and I had so much fun reliving the ports:)

 

Blue cheese burger; gotta love those:)

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Great review Andrew! And it was wonderful to meet you, Ed, and the others on the ship.

 

You have Jane as Captain's club hostess, but it was Donna. Was Jane a second hostess?

 

Will need to do my review soon. It was a great cruise, very port-intensive. Great staff on board. We missed the Lawn Grill. Will hit it we we board in April for the EB TA.

 

Monica

Edited by Compass Rose Monica
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Great review Andrew! And it was wonderful to meet you, Ed, and the others on the ship.

 

You have Jane as Captain's club hostess, but it was Donna. Was Jane a second hostess?

 

Will need to do my review soon. It was a great cruise, very port-intensive. Great staff on board. We missed the Lawn Grill. Will hit it we we board in April for the EB TA.

 

Monica

 

No, you're right. Blame it on the jet lag. Donna was very nice, and spent some time with us at the Elite cocktail hour.

 

Almost back on West Coast time...

 

Andrew

 

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Well done Andrew. You captured the cruise and ports perfectly. This truly was one of the most memorable trips we have taken. The ship, the crew, the ports and most of all our traveling companions created an amazing lifetime experience.

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