On Board Le Lyrial — The Great Austral Loop — November 16-December 1, 2022

[jpalbny]

Nice penguin shots! Love watching them run around with pebbles for their nests. 

 

Did the trekking pole keep that gentoo from getting too close? Reminds me of the dividers at the grocery store checkout line.

 

Smooth travels in the Drake. 

[AussieBoyTX]

8 minutes ago, jpalbny said:

Nice penguin shots! Love watching them run around with pebbles for their nests. 

 

Did the trekking pole keep that gentoo from getting too close? Reminds me of the dividers at the grocery store checkout line.

 

Smooth travels in the Drake. 

Thanks. 
 

A guest set their pole down and the penguin immediately came over to check it out. They were often right underfoot or within a meter or so. 

[Host Jazzbeau]

If I recall the earlier parts of this thread correctly, you went to the Falklands and South Georgia before finally hitting the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.  Frankly I'm not sure any of those areas are on my list, but if I were to find a cruise that did only part of your itinerary:  did you see enough different things [not more of the same things you had already seen] in Antarctica itself to make the Drake worth the risk?  Or would a cruise to the Falklands and South Georgia without Antarctica have been nearly as good?

[AussieBoyTX]

7 hours ago, Host Jazzbeau said:

If I recall the earlier parts of this thread correctly, you went to the Falklands and South Georgia before finally hitting the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.  Frankly I'm not sure any of those areas are on my list, but if I were to find a cruise that did only part of your itinerary:  did you see enough different things [not more of the same things you had already seen] in Antarctica itself to make the Drake worth the risk?  Or would a cruise to the Falklands and South Georgia without Antarctica have been nearly as good?

For us, Antarctica was dramatic mountains and sailing through icebergs, along with the penguin colonies. What we saw did not compare to the King penguin, fur and elephant seal colonies and whaling station on South Georgia. 
 

But, I don’t know what we didn’t see in Antarctica…

[jpalbny]

Jazz, my perspective (having done Antarctica twice, once with S. Georgia, once without):

 

There's nothing to compare with Antarctica. Even Alaska can't compare. Massive amounts of icebergs and glaciers. Many different types of wildlife. The scenery is spectacular, especially on a good weather day. Plus the cool factor of making it to the seventh continent.

 

South Georgia has less snow and much more green. The wildlife is incredibly dense (more so than on the Peninsula) but the species that you see are different. You wont' find Adelies there. The density of the King Penguin rookeries is like nothing else. And the fur seal pups are so cute.

 

IMO S. Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula are very different. Very little redundancy other than the fact that some of the same explorers were at both locations, and you can see Gentoo penguins in both places. We are already looking to go back again in a few years.

[Host Jazzbeau]

Thanks @AussieBoyTX and @jpalbny  Follow-up:  for our cruise/tour in Patagonia in January (Iguazu Falls, then Australis 4-nt cruise from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas, then 2 days hiking excursions in Torres del Paine NP) we will be bringing low-top waterproof hiking shoes.  Should we buy goretex gaiters to protect against rain/snow?

[AussieBoyTX]

2 hours ago, Host Jazzbeau said:

Thanks @AussieBoyTX and @jpalbny  Follow-up:  for our cruise/tour in Patagonia in January (Iguazu Falls, then Australis 4-nt cruise from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas, then 2 days hiking excursions in Torres del Paine NP) we will be bringing low-top waterproof hiking shoes.  Should we buy goretex gaiters to protect against rain/snow?

 

For a couple of days, personally, I wouldn't bother. We spent a couple of weeks hiking through TdP a few years ago and although we experienced pretty much all types of weather over that time, I never really thought I had uncomfortably wet shoes. I might carry an extra pair of socks, though.

[highplanesdrifters]

Thanks for taking us along. Love all the photos and the great reporting!

[AussieBoyTX]

Early Monday morning, we arrived at Deception Island, an actually active volcano (last eruption 1969), in the South Shetland Islands. Given the Drake Passage forecast, other ships had altered their plans as well, and we found Sea Spirit already there and Silver Endeavour entering the narrow path to the harbor right ahead of us. L’Austral was also nearby, only a few nautical miles away at Half Moon Island.

 

Silver Endeavour stopped just beyond the entrance to the bay, presumably to allow its guests to explore the whaling station there. Our destination was the far end of Telefon Bay to see the caldera of the valcano.

 

Our group landed first around 9 am and this landing was more of what I had imagined before the trip — the water was smooth, as we were in the bay, but temps were slightly above freezing and winds were 50+ kts and included a bit of driven rain. We also had a low overcast that made Le Lyrial at times impossible to see, a short distance from us.

 

The shore was a kind of volcanic mud that had an interesting characteristic — if you were able to work your boots into the mud, you could feel the heat coming from the earth! That was cool. There were five Weddell seals off to the side that didn’t seem too interested in us — and also didn’t seem to want us around. We went the other way for the easy walk to the caldera. Having seen that, we decided to head back to the ship, like most people, though some did decide to take the hike through the fog along the ridge.

 

We then decided to check out the pool — it was nicely heated and the restaurant manager said we were the first to use the pool this cruise. This was an especially good choice because we became aware that the Breton ham, egg & cheese galette was the upstairs special of the day — my favorite, so I made the effort to be on Deck 6 right as the restaurant opened — and still almost missed out on a table!

 

However, having secured a table I was second in line for the galette and was able to enjoy it with a glass of cider as we sailed from Telefon bay. Our Malaysian friends let us know that the kitchen had taken to making a special dish for the twenty Malaysians on board to share. Today, a prawn porridge. They gave us a portion and it was good,

 

Pretty much as we expected, the noon briefing announced that our afternoon expedition would now be a “drive by” of the Chinstrap penguin colony on the outside wall of Deception Island. It would have been fun to land on the incredibly long black lava sand beach to get close to the penguins and seals, but our Captain was good enough to give us two slow passes before we continued on our way.

 

There were plenty of afternoon activities, but having been on the early expeditions, we were kind of tired and passed on most — but not the bridge tour, now that I was sure that everyone who hadn’t been before had a chance to sign up and the travel quiz, hosted by the Travel Ambassador. The winner received a 250 euro shipboard credit on any cruise booked on board. I haven’t heard back, so I guess we’re not the lucky winners.

 

Anticipating rough seas tomorrow and Wednesday, the final Captain’s toast and gala dinner were held tonight. We decided to eat upstairs, expecting the Deck 6 restaurant to be closed for the Drake Passage crossing.

 

Tomorrow: Drake Lake or Drake Shake?

 

[jpalbny]

Deception Island is a really neat place; thanks for your pictures! And yes, the still-active volcano keeps the sand on the beach quite warm. It also causes warm water to run off into the caldera so if you step into the water, the first foot or two from shore, where it's very shallow, is actually warm.

 

Back in the "old days" (2009) we went here with Silverseas' Prince Albert II(now known as Silver Explorer) and we did our Polar Plunge inside the caldera. We wore our suits under our winter gear, stripped down on the beach, ran into the water, and dove under before we lost our nerve. Then we promptly ran out as fast as we could.

 

The best part of it was the "hot tub" afterwards. The crew dug a shallow hole in the beach which filled up with the volcanically-heated runoff. The water was actually so hot that they had to pour in cold water from the caldera every once in a while, to keep us from boiling alive! But it felt great after the Polar Plunge.

 

Apparently now you can't dig holes in the beach - but what fun that was! I have pictures of that but I don't want to hijack your thread. 

 

Good luck on your Drake crossing! Hope that you make good speed and avoid the worst of the weather. Have enjoyed following along with you.

[AussieBoyTX]

The Drake Passage crossing began smoothly enough — certainly no worse than we had experienced at various points on our cruise so far. For me, the biggest impact was the motion was making me sleepy!

 

Fortunately, I didn’t miss lunch, as my beloved reblochon was offered as a special of the day in a traditional Tartiflette. It was delicious!

 

We had sunny skies for most of the day and although it was apparent that the seas were becoming more rough, still, nothing we hadn’t seen before and most guests were attending the functions — updates from the Naturalists, dance lessons, caviar tasting… Our Captain advised the weather would continue to deteriorate through the afternoon and we should expect 7-8 meter seas, along with 50 plus kt winds.

 

Upstairs dining was closed, so no surprise that most of the guests arrived for dinner on Deck 2 between 7:30 & 8. Guests & crew were in a jovial mood and only a very small number appeared to be missing. The four cheese pasta was very good, as was the borscht. We finished after nine and went back to our cabin for the night.

 

The storm was substantial overnight and it was difficult to sleep through it, though fortunately, none of us were injured or seasick. Everything was thrown to the floor, including things we thought were bolted down, like the coffee maker. It let up in the early morning as we passed north of Cape Horn and entered smooth waters as we approached the Beagle Channel.

 

[AussieBoyTX]

Lyrial Wednesday

 

Our final sailing day was quite anticlimactic after the Drake Passage excitement. We had a beautiful cruise along the Beagle Channel under sunny, though windy skies. The scenery was gorgeous, with snowy mountains and green valleys. We even passed a final set of Magelenic penguins, allowing some guests an additional check mark on their penguin sighting list.

 

Apparently, our crossing was among the most “vigorous” the Naturalists and some crew members had experienced. Our Captain did confirm we had eight meter swells for at least a period overnight

 

We played a final quiz then a final Bingo and for me, the excitement of the day — we caught up with our Sistership L’Austral, completing Emblematic Antarctica, and our two ships sailed the final few hours in formation.

 

We arrived at Ushuaia at six, but our berth was still occupied by Seaventure, a decrepit-looking ship placed into service in 1990, who needed more time to get underway. L’Austral, though was able to take her place and we watched her docking while having our last dinner upstairs with Egg 65 (which really shouldn’t be offered on a buffet) and a final Ponant burger.

 

At 9:30 we finally docked and several guests and crew members went to explore Ushuaia. Fortunately 10 pm is just barely dinner time in Argentina, so I’m sure nobody missed out.

 

We packed and were in bed by eleven.

 

Disembarkation is almost always the same. Out of the cabin before eight, breakfast downstairs, and wait in the lounge for our color to be called. This did take longer, as we’d spent almost a month with some of the crew members between this cruise and our June/July cruises on Lyrial and there were a few we especially wanted to thank. At 8:50, we were called and said our final goodbyes and thank you’s to spa team, restaurant and hotel manager, travel ambassador, cruise director, the naturalists and of course, our Captain.

 

The transfers, again, were very well managed. A bus met us at the bottom of the gangway and took us just outside the tiny port before parking and giving us almost three hours to explore downtown Ushuaia before finally taking us to the airport for an extremely efficient checkin and security process — though I was amused that Ponant’s contract handlers also commented on our Drake Passage crossing.

 

Three hours later, back in Buenos Aires and we’re done.

 

Edited December 2, 2022 by AussieBoyTX

[AussieBoyTX]

Ponant has operated in Antarctica for years and now has five ships operating various itineraries throughout the season. With this much experience, one kind of needs to feel that anything less than perfection would be a disappointment.

 

Fortunately, I don’t need to report that. From my perspective, everything important was executed very well. Our housekeeper was fantastic. The restaurant staff at both restaurants were way more experienced, and much better at anticipating our needs and remembering our preferences than in June. Same for the bar staff.

 

@AussieGirlTX has the highest marks for the spa team. The hairstylist gave our teen a ton of tips that he’s still talking about.

 

I usually get on well with the Restaurant Managers, but this one was exceptional — it felt like he was everywhere and did all the things you’d want a manager to do to support the team. He was also always available and it seemed like it wasn’t possible to even pass him in the hall without some sort of conversation.

 

I usually only interact with the Hotel Manager when things aren’t going to plan. I’d just note that this one was the most visible I’ve seen on Ponant. He assisted the restaurant team at their busiest times (which included the gala dinner, which is often a trouble point) and was helping guests get geared up for their expeditions, among other things.

 

This was our second time with this Cruise Director and she is lovely. She is what you’d want in a Cruise Director. Her dance performances were quite a surprise that we enjoyed.

 

The Naturalists and Expedition Leader managed the trip competently and safely and they were always available during the expeditions and even at the Observatory Lounge on sea days to point out whales and identify birds and simply answer questions.

 

We enjoyed this itinerary and really appreciate the Ponant crew on Le Bellot that talked us into switching to this itinerary from Emblematic Antarctica. South Georgia was extraordinary and we’re glad we got to experience it.  Setting the reality of life aside (and the ship’s ability to provision fresh food), we could have enjoyed another four days (nineteen total) along the loop.

Edited December 2, 2022 by AussieBoyTX

[rzmz89]

Thanks you for your details of the trip. Definitely looking forward to being on her in about one week on 12/11/2022.

 

[AussieBoyTX]

Le Lyrial is returning to Ushuaia about eighteen hours into her subsequent cruise, Emblematic Antarctica:

 

[AussieBoyTX]

Viking Polaris was about six hours ahead of us and four hours ahead of L’Austral when it was hit by a rogue wave resulting in a fatality. 

 

https://www.nbcnewyork.com/news/national-international/us-citizen-killed-when-rogue-wave-hit-viking-cruise-ship-in-antarctic/3981840/

[JazzyTheTraveler]

@AussieBoyTXWonderful report, thank you!! I’m on Le Boreal’s Great Austral Loop right now. It’s been a similarly amazing trip for us. Am so envious you got to do the Shackleton hike!! Gah - another reason I will have to do this again some day!! 
 

Question, if you don’t mind sharing, how much and who did you tip? The reception says it’s at our discretion, and that it goes into pools unless otherwise directed, but that she cannot suggest an amount. Soooo, any reccos you can provide would be most appreciated. 
 

Response to the poster asking what was the highlight… while we came on this trip for Antarctica (I have a thing with the Heroic Age), and I was soooo happy we got to the Weddell Sea side and stepped foot on the continent proper, South Georgia takes the cake for me. But, to the concern would they be different enough to warrant them both, yes. I’d go to both again 100x over if I could. They are so incredibly different and both so very amazing, they each warrant a visit. 

[AussieBoyTX]

21 minutes ago, JazzyTheTraveler said:

Question, if you don’t mind sharing, how much and who did you tip? The reception says it’s at our discretion, and that it goes into pools unless otherwise directed, but that she cannot suggest an amount. Soooo, any reccos you can provide would be most appreciated. 

 

Well... As you know, tips are included for tickets booked in the US and are shared among all hotel department staff. We were strongly advised that if we wanted to give something extra to put it in the Crew Welfare Fund to be shared among the crew. If there's something extra you'd like to give to a special crew member, give it to them directly -- how much? Don't know -- I would think even $5 or $10 a day would be meaningful to a housekeeper. 

For guests that do not have gratuities included, Ponant says the average is 13 euros per day.

Edited December 5, 2022 by AussieBoyTX

[AussieBoyTX]

23 minutes ago, JazzyTheTraveler said:

Response to the poster asking what was the highlight… while we came on this trip for Antarctica (I have a thing with the Heroic Age), and I was soooo happy we got to the Weddell Sea side and stepped foot on the continent proper, South Georgia takes the cake for me. But, to the concern would they be different enough to warrant them both, yes. I’d go to both again 100x over if I could. They are so incredibly different and both so very amazing, they each warrant a visit. 

 

I saw that you were on the Weddell Sea side and thought that was cool! I thought that might be reserved for Commandant Charcot, which was only a bit further South than you were. 😎

Edited December 5, 2022 by AussieBoyTX

[schnapperin]

Great report as always and lovely to read that it’s a lot like my 2019 trip

 

the buffet restaurant was then also extremely busy with more non French speaker on board. Glad the ship got safely trough the storm

[JazzyTheTraveler]

On 12/5/2022 at 12:11 PM, AussieBoyTX said:

 

I saw that you were on the Weddell Sea side and thought that was cool! I thought that might be reserved for Commandant Charcot, which was only a bit further South than you were. 😎

Yes!! It was such a huge and happy surprise for me we got to land on that side of the peninsula. The Captain said the ice had cleared out enough for us to go on that side which is why I think it’s normally not visited except by the new Charcot boat, since it has better ice breaker chops. 

[rutgers]

How cold is it on the ship itself? Like the dining rooms and the hallways?

[AussieBoyTX]

23 minutes ago, rutgers said:

How cold is it on the ship itself? Like the dining rooms and the hallways?

 

I thought it was "winter comfortable" -- I usually wore a fleece, but it wasn't so cold that I couldn't wear shorts.

[rutgers]

I read online that the boots and jacket are kept in a mud room.  Is that true?  Are they only accessible if you are on an excursion ?  Just want to also confirm that the jackets have hoods.  Thank you!

[AussieBoyTX]

3 hours ago, rutgers said:

I read online that the boots and jacket are kept in a mud room.  Is that true?  Are they only accessible if you are on an excursion ?  Just want to also confirm that the jackets have hoods.  Thank you!

 

Le Commandant Charcot has a room to keep your gear, but not the other ships. I assume you could access that area whenever you wanted.

 

On the Sisterships, your boots are left on a mat outside your stateroom and your parka you keep with you inside.

 

The parka is very high quality and has a hood. It was actually too warm for the temperate conditions we had. Also, the parka on Charcot is at least slightly different. The one we got had faux fur around the hood.