Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen - differences between ships

[Christie Malry]

Researching a cruise trip to Norway has led me into a deep rabbit hole over the last few weeks. I was about to book a P&O cruise through the fjords, which has the advantage of not needing to fly, but then I looked at the Hurtigruten coastal express, and I think that's actually what I'm after. Small ships, lots of scenery, lots of ports (albeit with short stops) actual Norwegian food and talks about culture.

 

As a solo traveler it seems some ships are cheaper than others as they have one-person cabins. The cheapest seems to be the MS Vesterålen, the oldest and smallest, and MS Polarlys. Assuming I'd be in an inside cabin I'm interested in places to sit, read and see the sights, inside and outside, as well as the lectures offered. Does anyone have any advice?

 

[oakridger]

Welcome to Cruise Critic @Christie Malry!  Depending on time of year Hurtigruten offers some cruises with no single supplement.  I believe those are usually during the colder season sailings.  Unfortunately all the June ones I've checked lately are all double price for solos.

 

If you have been researching, you realize that the coastal voyages are not actual "cruises" like P&O and the others offer.  No shows, bingo, comedians, etc..

 

I went on Vesteralan in  June 2005 in an outside window double before she was refurbished and had a wonderful time!  The public lounges were where I was most of the time reading, watching scenery, occasionally talking to other passengers and having a few Norwegian beers.  I spent no time other than sleeping and showering in my cabin.  On actual "cruises" I tend to spend some time in the cabin but didn't want to miss anything on the coast!

 

The ships have all been refurbished (I call it "fancied up"!) since then and the dining has been upgraded from what it looks like to me.

 

Check also on the new Coastal ship company, Havila.  They run the same schedule and itineraries and have new ships of similar size and capacity as Hurtigruten.  I have reservations on Havila Castor for June 2024.  

 

~Nancy

Edited March 22, 2023 by oakridger

[hallasm]

You will not stay in the cabin very often. All ships have a cafe where you can sit but also nice lounges where you can read, enjoy the view and meet fellow passengers.  
On Hurtigruten's website there are deck plans for all ships where you can get more information about cabins and lounges and picture.

Link to Vesterålen

 

example of Vesterålen with two lounges Vestråerålloungen at deck 4 and Trollfjord lounge at deck 5.

As Oakridger mentions, you can also look at Havila.

Edited March 22, 2023 by hallasm

[grayjay]

I'd also suggest to look both at Hurtigruten's and Havila's website, as quite often they have offers with no single supplement and have the same coastal route. If you choose a fare with guarantee cabins that often is quite a significant difference contrasted to fares where you can choose a specific one. So, if you are not picky and content with just having a bed and a shower anywhere on the ship - go ahead!

[grayjay]

I have just seen an interesting item on Havila's homepage: an offer for solo travelers: 50% off on selected departure dates 100 days before chosen departures. Sounds interesting. valid for inside and outside cabins.

And strangely enough 😉 -big wink- Hurtigruten offers a similar one if you should decide to book in the next 9 days.

[hbbae]

I’ve previously sailed on the Vesterålen as a solo also (but in a cabin with a window), and agree that you would likely spend very little time in your cabin.  The lounges were comfortable, and if the weather suits, there are several deck options from which to watch the ferry comings-and-goings (which are interesting in itself).  Whether you choose Hurtigruten or Havila, there will be a lot to see and experience.

 

I only did the northbound sailing, had an excellent time. Some of the friends I met along the way did the round-trip, and for them, the one-way would have been enough.  I’m just mentioning that, in the event that you care to consider trade-offs between length of trip and paying more to get a window in your cabin (or a slightly bigger cabin).  But a lounge is a good place to hang out, regardless of whether you’re looking for company or quiet -

Edited March 22, 2023 by hbbae
Typo correction

[hallasm]

8 hours ago, hbbae said:

I only did the northbound sailing, had an excellent time. Some of the friends I met along the way did the round-trip, and for them, the one-way would have been enough.

Agree - I have only done Hurtigruten north bound or partial. Personally I think return is too much of the same - Consider spending a little more time in Oslo and taking the Bergen line from Oslo to Bergen with a stop for one or two nights in the Flåm area and in Bergen.

Edited March 23, 2023 by hallasm

[hbbae]

42 minutes ago, hallasm said:

Agree - I have only done Hurtigruten north bound or partial. Personally I think return is too much of the same - Consider spending a little more time in Oslo and taking the Bergen line from Oslo to Bergen with a stop for one or two nights in the Flåm area and in Bergen.

Yes, that’s what they said, too much of the same.  I completely agree with your suggestion. I spent a week getting myself from Oslo to Bergen, including the railroad and a couple of nights in Flåm, with a side excursion to Balestrand that my TA suggested.  All of this was great, and Bergen is worth a full day, even two.

 

Each day there was one stop on the coastal express that was long enough to get off the ship and do something (minimum 3 hours, but sometimes longer).  Some of these lent themselves well to DIY exploring (Trondheim and Tromsø come to mind), but the two organized excursions that I thought were really worthwhile were the ones for North Cape and Geirangerfjord.  I enjoy thinking back on this trip!

 

Maybe things have changed - but I don’t remember talks on culture on the coastal express.  On Hurtigruten’s expedition cruises, yes - but not on the 7-day - ?  Or maybe I just don’t remember -

[Christie Malry]

Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions. I'm torn - it seems Hurtigruten has the history and heritage and the older vessels might have more charm, but the brand new Havila ships look very comfortable and the focus on lowering emissions with hybrid systems is very interesting. I'm looking at maybe April 2024, and prices for an interior cabin for one both are very similar. But it seems the smart thing to might be to wait until 100 days and use the Havila solo 50% off offer, assuming it continues, and I could get a cabin with a window, which I imagine would be nice for getting a glimpse of the ports visited at 3am.

 

[hallasm]

32 minutes ago, Christie Malry said:

and the focus on lowering emissions with hybrid systems is very interesting.

Just a minor correction. Havila ships are new but focus on reducing emissions is not different from Hurtigruten.
Hurtigruten and Havila must meet the same Norwegian ‘zero emissions’ requirements when sailing the heritage fjords and both are using Biogas as fuel when sailing at open sea.

[hbbae]

Christie Malry, you might wish to check the terms and conditions for these offers - I took a quick look at Havila’s website, and it looks like it may only be good for departures prior to Dec 31, 2023.  Haven’t looked at the Hurtigruten website - but I think you should check the fine print before “planning” to wait until 100 days out -

[Christie Malry]

I'm looking at going in April 2024. If I wanted to travel in the next hundred days I could get a cheaper fare, or a seaview cabin for roughly the price of an interior. On the Havila website it says of this 50% off solo offer "*This offer is valid for selected departures 100 days ahead from the current date, and continously applies to all future cruise departures that fall within the next 100-day period."

 

That suggests to me that there is always a chance of a bargain within 100 days, but of course any particular sailing might be booked up already or nor included. I guess it's a way of filling cabins that might otherwise be empty. Of course there's also no guarantee that the offer will still exist next year. Maybe I'll email and ask. But I might be reading it wrong and it might only apply in 2023. Time to email and ask for clarification.

[hallasm]

Hurtigruten has had a discount for solo travelers for many years - certainly a way to filling cabins.

With a daily departure from Bergen, there are many available cabins outside of public holidays - you'll probably have to plan outside of Easter. Hurtigruten ships vary in size, but service is the same on all ships.

I am confident that you will find a 'solo / No single supplement' offer  by April next year. For Hurtigruten I would recommend that you compare with the prices on the Norwegian .no web site. There are often better offers.

For both Hurtigruten and Havila, you must read the terms and conditions - they can vary from the different web sites.

[GeezerCouple]

12 hours ago, hallasm said:

Agree - I have only done Hurtigruten north bound or partial. Personally I think return is too much of the same - Consider spending a little more time in Oslo and taking the Bergen line from Oslo to Bergen with a stop for one or two nights in the Flåm area and in Bergen.

 

We both disagree about that RT.  DH wasn't sure about doing it both ways.

 

The reason that we decided to do the RT instead of one way was that we were on an Astronomy sailing, and one of our goals was to see the Northern Lights, although there is never any certainty.  As it turned out, it was very clouding the *entire* time sailing North!

 

However, aside from continuing to hope we'd see some Lights on the SB sailing, we just LOVED the scenery.  It was beyond amazing.  We couldn't get enough of it, wherever we looked.  And some of the small port towns were so picturesque.  The entire area is just gorgeous, breathtaking.

 

After a couple days SB, the clouds parted. 🙂 

GOOD thing we already knew that the human eye rarely (ever?) sees the incredibly vivid colors of the Northern Lights that are shown in photos.  We saw some dramatic "designs", including the "curtain" waving a bit.  It was amazing, but there were no vivid colors... at least there were some, how to put it, dim colors.  Dim.  Very dim.  Almost, "is that some *color* over there!?" 😀

 

Fortunately, the Astronomer with our group was taking *lots* of photos, and he also had a bunch of even better photos from a previous "Astronomy" sailing.

 

But we couldn't get enough of the landscapes, the scenery, etc.

We had chosen very late Feb/early March, precisely because there should be lots of snow.

(We chose a very early Alaska sailing, too, the first of the season the year we did that, also so we'd see maximum "snow capped peaks", etc.!)

 

And we'd love to go back!  It was that special.

 

And of course, that train ride, through that middle area (I don't know what it is called) where it seems other worldly.  We were expecting something special, but it still took our breath away.

 

Okay... I've rambled on enough.

We were *not* sorry we did the full round trip!

 

GC

[oakridger]

I suppose it greatly depends on how much time you have.  If you only have two weeks available for travel then I would agree with @hallasm to only go one direction and spend the other week of time in other areas of Norway (Oslo, Bergen, etc.).  If you have unlimited travel time available than go for the round trip!!  That's what I decided anyway.  🙂

 

~Nancy

[grayjay]

I'm also one who'd always suggest to take the whole roundtrip if you either have the time or the money to spend or both. There are differences between the places visited on the northbound route to those southbound. The cabin chosen is not the most important feature even if, as old age is creeping up, we tend to booking cabins with a view or even a balcony. But there's enough room on all the ships inside and outside to gaze at the stunning views. If you can afford it and it's your first visit, I'd choose the summer months April to September, even though the winter months are much cheaper. Waves can be high, weather can be rough and hours of darkness long in the winter months and you may but also may not have the famous northern lights to enjoy. Our first trips , either on a regular cruise ship or on one of the Hurtigruten ships was in summer even if on one of them we didn't have a speck of the famous midnight sun because the clouds were rolling across the skies every single day. Winter is lovely if you like snow - but you can also have icy roads and you'll need spikes on your shoes to walk or there can be heavy rains due to climate change even in January. And there's less daylight, of course. In winter, you won't pass through Geirangerfjord, Trollfjord and you might miss more ports because of weather conditions even if friends of ours had a great trip lately with blue skies and the sun shining and northern lights every night ( I was envious, of course.)

Take the time to have at least a day both in Oslo and Bergen, more if possible and affordable, and perhaps book either the program "Norway in a nutshell" or do at least the train journey from Oslo to Bergen and/or the train from Trondheim to Oslo.

[Flyinby]

On 3/21/2023 at 3:59 PM, Christie Malry said:

Researching a cruise trip to Norway has led me into a deep rabbit hole over the last few weeks. I was about to book a P&O cruise through the fjords, which has the advantage of not needing to fly, but then I looked at the Hurtigruten coastal express, and I think that's actually what I'm after. Small ships, lots of scenery, lots of ports (albeit with short stops) actual Norwegian food and talks about culture.

 

As a solo traveler it seems some ships are cheaper than others as they have one-person cabins. The cheapest seems to be the MS Vesterålen, the oldest and smallest, and MS Polarlys. Assuming I'd be in an inside cabin I'm interested in places to sit, read and see the sights, inside and outside, as well as the lectures offered. Does anyone have any advice?

 

I'd suggest going to both Hurtigruten and Havila websites and clicking through the booking process on a date you think would be likely for you.  Take a look at the cabins they offer for the prices they give.  I say this because I chose a random date (May 15, or near to it) with both and there was a big difference in price...to get even close to the price match, I had to choose an inside cabin on one, versus a balcony deluxe on the other.  Or I could get a suite on one for the price of a window cabin with tiny window.  Remember to check if the price is per person, or per cabin.  The single supplement choices seemed limited, and prices didn't seem any better on the dates I checked.  I'm checking from the US, I don't know if that matters or would be a different result.

 

I'm with the round-trip-if-you-can group.  I recently completed a round trip, and would have hated to been getting off in Kirkenes and leaving.  The trip back was just as interesting to me, we saw places we didn't see because of night-day stop differences, and were able to get off the ship or do tours we couldn't on the other way.

 

I don't know about the culture talks etc. on Hurtigruten, but on the Havila ship there was a briefing every day around 5:15, depending on stops etc., and it covered the upcoming day, tours, northern lights and upcoming stops, then on to local culture information, with an art info session to wind it up before dinner.

 

The suggestions about the Bergensban and Flam railway are also good, certainly do that if you can...not sure what I'd choose if I could only do one or the other (Round Trip or Railway) but both are good choices.  Best of luck with your choices, it's a wonderful trip and was a welcome change from a traditional cruise.

[Flyinby]

On 3/23/2023 at 6:45 AM, Christie Malry said:

assuming it continues, and I could get a cabin with a window, which I imagine would be nice for getting a glimpse of the ports visited at 3am.

I missed this before writing my earlier post.  Just my opinion, but if you can possibly get a cabin with a window, do it!  I looked at the cabins on the Vesteralen, and have to say I wouldn't be spending much time in the cabin either.  But we left the curtains open in our cabin purposely so the lights from ports would maybe awaken us, and the late-night stops were interesting and fun to watch the ship come in, or the dock activity if you're on that side.

 

With an inside cabin or blocked window view, you might feel like you're missing something every time you go in for a rest or a break, and you may have no clue even when you've entered, docked, and left a port.  Certainly the lounges are great, but it's nice sometimes having a choice, and if one choice is just a box to sleep in, give it some thought.  On an ocean cruise ship, maybe no big deal to not be able to see the empty ocean outside, but these trips are chock full of beautiful and interesting scenery and activity at all times of day or night.

[vtgumby]

On 3/23/2023 at 1:30 PM, hallasm said:

 

I am confident that you will find a 'solo / No single supplement' offer  by April next year. For Hurtigruten I would recommend that you compare with the prices on the Norwegian .no web site. There are often better offers.

 

Unfortunately Hurtigruten will NOT let non Norwegians book off their NO site which is 6k less per person then their global or US site.

I’ve asked them to meet the NO site prices and awaiting their answer but it doesn’t look promising.

GREAT advice in the past regarding the various websites but it doesn’t look good for NO site for non Norwegians…I will update when I get an answer.

[hallasm]

33 minutes ago, vtgumby said:

Unfortunately Hurtigruten will NOT let non Norwegians book off their NO site which is 6k less per person then their global or US site.

It is not legal to restrict access to make bookings on the .no site according to EU legislation - however, I do not know if it is possible to restrict orders outside the EU.

I tried to initiate a booking at the .no site and could enter a US address as well as US phone number.

[Christie Malry]

I asked Havila, but they wouldn't confirm how long the solo traveler offer would last for. So I think the best thing to do for now is hold my powder dry and wait until I can perhaps get a discount for next year nearer the time. Or perhaps I'll delay until 2026 when a company called Bergen Cruise Liine plans to re-start ferries from Newcastle (though I am sceptical this will actually happen.) I have looked at whether it is at all plausible to get to Bergen from the UK without flying, and while it is possible it would be quite an undertaking with either a lot of train journeys, or three consecutive overnight ferries.