Around the Horn and Through the Canal - A 31-Day Adventure on the Oosterdam

[Roz]

I just spent a frustrating hour trying to submit this review through the CC Reviews section, but I kept getting an error message saying I needed to fill in all required fields.  I had someone else look at it, and they couldn't figure out what required fields were missing, so I'm posting it here.  I'm breaking it up into sections because it's rather lengthy, and some readers may only be interested in certain aspects of the cruise.  

 

This was my retirement cruise – 31 days from Buenos Aires to Ft. Lauderdale on the Oosterdam.  The official name was South America, Inca & Panama Canal Discovery.  Prior to this my longest cruise was 13 days, so I wasn’t sure if I would enjoy being a ship for that long.  I ended up enjoying it so much that I booked a 28-day Asian cruise for 2025 with the onboard cruise consultant. 

 

I'm glad I didn't read the reviews on CC before I left because they weren't good, and I didn't experience or observe most of what other recent reviewers complained about.  The Oosterdam is in great shape.

 

The South American cruise I was on could be booked 3 ways - a 31-day cruise, a 14-day cruise from Buenos Aires to Santiago, or a 17-day cruise from Santiago to Ft. Lauderdale.  Several people on the ship commented they were unaware of the option to do the longer cruise and debark in Ft. Lauderdale.  I thought the Buenos Aires to Santiago leg was the most interesting segment, but enjoyed it all.  I had a great deal of difficulty getting to Buenos Aires, so I was grateful when we got to Santiago that I wasn’t one of the 800 people who debarked there.  I wasn’t ready to face another round of long flights home, and I was enjoying myself so much I didn’t want to get off the ship.  About 750 passengers embarked in Santiago to replace those who had left.  There were about 1,800 passengers in total.  In the words of our wisecracking captain, the average age onboard was “old”.  And I've never been on a cruise with so many different nationalities and languages spoken among the passengers.  

[Roz]

Itinerary

 

We visited 8 countries on this cruise – Argentina, Uruguay, The Falkland Islands, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Panama, and Aruba.  The itinerary included a full transit of the Panama Canal.  The greatest number of port stops was in Chile. 

 

Getting There & Embarkation

 

This was the most difficult and unenjoyable aspect of the cruise.  If I were doing it again, I would fly out 3-4 days in advance of the cruise.  I booked flights on United leaving Tennessee on March 8, connecting in Houston and then on to Buenos Aires.  I was scheduled to arrive in Buenos Aires on March 9, stay overnight, and then board the ship on March 10.  Sounds easy and straightforward, wouldn’t you say?  I missed my connection in Houston, through no fault of my own, and things went downhill from there.

 

United put me up in a hotel, gave me meal vouchers, and told me to come back to the airport the following evening.  They flew me from Houston to Santiago, and then Santiago to Buenos Aires on Latam, an airline I had never heard of.  I was lucky United was able to find me seats on flights leaving the next day.

 

When I first realized I had a problem back in Houston, I contacted my TA.  She notified HAL that I would be a late arrival and gave them my revised flight information.

Customs and immigration at the Buenos Aires airport was long and involved and crowded.  I caught a taxi and rode through Friday rush hour traffic, finally arriving at the cruise terminal at 5 pm.  All aboard was at 3 or 4 pm, the saving grace being that the ship was overnighting in BA and I was still able to board.  Otherwise I would have been up the proverbial creek without a paddle.  There were others caught in a similar predicament, and boarding continued throughout the evening and on into the next day.  I was told by several other passengers that the regular embarkation was hot and chaotic, due to 3 ships being in port and port officials being overwhelmed.  The embarkation process at the terminal was similar to what I had already been through at the airport. 

[Roz]

Cabin

 

I booked a Category G partial sea view cabin on Deck 4 (4088).  As advertised, it was between 2 lifeboats with an added twist.  There was a gigantic cable spool used to raise and lower the lifeboats right outside the window.  At times there were crew crawling around out there doing inspections.  I just had to make sure all curtains were pulled if I wasn’t fully dressed. 

 

The size and layout of the cabin made it easy to get around in. 

 

Service & Crew

 

As has been my experience on previous HAL cruises, the crew was absolutely wonderful and I had no major service issues, whether it was my room stewards, waiters, bar staff, etc.  Everyone went out of their way to make it an enjoyable experience.  Sometimes service in the dining room could be a bit slow, but I just allowed for that in making plans for the evening. 

 

Food

 

Overall I would give the food a grade of “B”. 

 

Beef dishes were hit or miss, with some of the least expensive cuts of beef such as oxtail, brisket, and pot roast being the tastiest.  I tried ordering prime rib medium a few times and it came out raw and bloody.  There was no difference between rare and medium.  I found the fish to be especially good, and Chef Willem was able to procure fresh fish along the way.  I would have liked more salad options on the dinner menu.  Apples and cucumbers with dressing is not my definition of a salad.  I did order the Caesar salad with anchovies several times and found the dressing to be better than on previous cruises.  Desserts were OK, nothing to really rave about, but that didn’t stop me from eating them. Soups were outstanding.  I tried some of the vegetarian options and found them to be “interesting”.  Let’s leave it at that. 

 

I had breakfast in the dining room whenever it was available, and found it to be a very civilized, relaxing way to start the day vs. the frenetic pace of the Lido.  The dining room lunch menu got boring after the first few times, and I wish it changed every day like it used to.  Several of the items on the lunch menu just aren’t that good.

 

I found the temperature of the food in the Lido to be uneven.  That could have been a function of it sitting on the steam table or me having to circle the Lido numerous times to find a seat, an issue I’ll address separately in this review.  I enjoyed the Lido salad bar and the Asian station, and of course the ice cream and bread pudding.  It can take a while and some effort to “assemble” your meals in the Lido.  For instance, there was no butter at the bread and pastry station.  When I wanted to have one of my beloved Dutch raisin buns for breakfast, I had to go to the other side of the Lido to procure butter, then visit another station for hot items such as eggs or bacon.  Finally, after placing everything on a table, if there wasn’t a waiter nearby, another trip was required to get a cup of coffee and yet another to get orange juice or some fruit.  

 

The ship was out of some foods.  We didn’t have raisin bran cereal, and there were no blueberries until we reached Chile.  Ice cream flavors were limited and one day there was only sugar free vanilla.  Some passengers commented that the ship was out of their favorite alcoholic beverage such as Kahlua.  Chef Willem explained in his talk that there continue to be supply chain issues.  I was impressed that he regularly made of point of walking through the Lido and dining room to chat with passengers and get their opinions on the food. 

 

The Gala Night menus continue to be rather uninspired.  I enjoyed the Sunday brunch in the dining room for something different. 

Edited May 1, 2023 by Roz

[Roz]

Lido and Dining Room Hours

 

HAL’s dining hours are really limited.  Breakfast in the dining room is for an hour and a half but lunch is only one hour. 

 

The Lido got old after about 3 weeks.  Having limited offerings from 2-4 pm and then being closed from 4-5:30 pm made it difficult when we got back from a late excursion.  A couple of times when my dinner just wasn’t that satisfying, I took advantage of the late night dining in the Lido.

 

Solo Cruising & Lido Table Hogs

 

There were A LOT of solo cruisers, men and women both. 

 

A number of people asked me why I was sailing by myself or just looked at me pitifully.  I’m used to getting that reaction.  I don't think they understand the challenges you face when trying to find someone to take a long, more exotic cruise with.  First of all, it has to be someone I'm willing to share a small space with for 31 days.  They have to want to take a long cruise and be able to be away from home for that amount of time.  Finally, they have to have the money to do it.  It's not easy to find that person which is probably why there were so many solos on this cruise.  

 

One issue I experienced, and other solos commented on, was finding a seat in the Lido.  HAL needs to do something about people parking themselves for long periods of time and just chit chatting, playing card games and board games, etc.  The tables don't turn over and some groups traveling together just occupied the same table and different people would come and go all day long.  Another issue is a couple sitting at a 6-top and then giving you the stink eye when you try to sit down.  People have got to understand that you have to share tables in the Lido.  I'm off my soap box. 

[Roz]

Ports & Shore Excursions

 

I’m not going into detail on the ports because there were so many of them and I could write a book on what I saw and experienced.  With the exception of Aruba, the ship docked in industrial ports and it was a 20-60 min. ride to anywhere remotely interesting.  I wish HAL would have been more forthcoming with this information, as it would have made researching, understanding, and booking excursions easier.  Shore excursions sold out fast and by the time I went to book in January for a March/April cruise, most of the excursions I was interested in and could afford were sold out.  I got on waitlists and in some cases had to book my 2^nd and 3^rd choices.  General San Martin in Peru was the only port where I couldn’t find a shore excursion.  Instead, I stayed on the ship and stared at sand dunes and shipping containers. Overall, I was happy with the HAL excursions I booked.  Some were better than others but there was something interesting to see or learn about in every one of them. 

 

For anyone thinking of doing a similar itinerary, just know that excursions sell out fast and are expensive, and budget your time and money accordingly.  Just as with the internet package I discuss below, several of the shore excursions went up in price from the time I first printed them out in November, 2022 until I actually booked them in February, 2023. 

 

When we were around the equator the heat and humidity were oppressive, and I questioned whether some of the participants should have even been on the shore excursions, as they were clearly having difficulty and slowed up the rest of the group.   

 

Entertainment

 

The band in the Rolling Stone Lounge was the best I've heard on a HAL ship, and the piano players and singers in Billboard Onboard were good too.  The Argentinian folk and tango dance troupe put on a very enjoyable performance, and I enjoyed the Step One dance productions in the main show lounge.  A Motown revue group joined the cruise in Peru and did two performances.  I didn’t watch the comedian or the illusionist. 

[Roz]

Bingo

 

I’m not playing bingo anymore and threw my HAL bingo dauber in the trash.  The games definitely favor those who opt to purchase the machines in lieu of the paper cards.  I’m a bingo purist, and just don’t see the point in staring at a machine while it does all the work and requires no involvement or thought on the part of the player.  Where’s the enjoyment or fun in that?

 

Internet

 

A couple of weeks before the cruise I went online to purchase an internet package.  There was only one package available, and I wanted to do some research on other options before making a purchase.  The next day I went back to buy the premium package, only to find that it had gone up from $287.99 to $351.99!  When I posted this in the HAL forum to alert others and vent my frustration, the HAL cheerleaders told me I should be grateful, even gleeful, to pay HAL the extra amount.  And moreover, the increase was due to HAL changing providers and we would be getting some supercharged Elon Musk internet service with faster transmission speeds. 

 

I would have appreciated a heads up from HAL that prices were going up on a certain date and to book now to avoid the increase.  And I didn’t see why I should have to subsidize the upgraded service for those who booked earlier.  As it turned out, we didn’t get the upgraded service.  Despite my unhappiness with the price increase, the internet worked remarkably well, considering the remote places we sailed and docked.  Some passengers were unhappy with it, but they were trying to upload videos to YouTube and send attachments.  I used it for basic email and to monitor my bank and credit card accounts and to post on message boards like Cruise Critic. 

 

Laundry

 

This was my first cruise as a 4-star Mariner, and getting free laundry service on a month long cruise was a godsend.  I sent out laundry 3 times and I was very happy with the turnaround time and the condition of my clothes when I got them back. 

[Roz]

Cruise Critic Roll Call & Meet & Mingles

 

We had an extremely active CC roll call and members were very willing to share information and ideas, so much so that at times it became overwhelming.  A couple of times I questioned whether I should have even booked this cruise, as others seemed to be so much more sophisticated and knowledgeable than I was.  Information was sometimes conflicting and confusing.  As an example, exchanging currency. 

 

Pay with pesos, pay with US dollars, only 20s, 50s, and 100s can be exchanged, only small bills can be exchanged, pay with a credit card, get the Blue Rate (what the heck is the blue rate?), deal with a combio, don't deal with a combio, and what exactly is a combio and where do I find them?  My head was spinning and I had a knot in my stomach as the plane touched down in Buenos Aires.  After spending 3 days trying to get there, would I even be able to locate a taxi and pay for it? 

 

It was all much ado about nothing.  Before the final exit at the Buenos Aires airport, taxi companies and car services had booths and offices.  I went up to one and told the man behind the counter where I wanted to go.  He quoted me a flat rate and took my AMEX card.  I tipped the driver with US dollars. 

 

From start to finish, I never had to exchange any currency.  I used my credit cards and US dollars.  All that research and worry for nothing. 

 

We had 2 Meet & Mingles in the Crow’s Nest.  Both were well attended and it was nice to finally meet my fellow roll call members who I had talked with online for over a year.  HAL officers attended both M&Gs, including Captain Kevin Beirnaert.  This was the first time I encountered a Belgian captain on HAL, and he had quite a dry sense of humor.

 

Summary

 

People have asked me if I would do this cruise again.  The answer is probably not, but only because I saw most of what I wanted to see, and a lot of the ports just don't have that much to offer.  On top of which it was a very expensive cruise.  The highlights to me were The Falklands and Patagonia in Argentina and Chile.  I got to see and experience places that most people will never visit.  This isn't the itinerary for everyone and definitely not for the novice cruiser or traveler. 

[Florida_gal_50]

That’s not good about Aruba.  I hope that isn’t what is in the future.  I’ve always been right in the downtown area.  I personally love to travel alone.  I was married for a number of years and felt more alone then.  I never would have travelled as much as I have.  I’ve taken to limiting interaction with others as much as possible because some people ask inappropriate questions.  I would love to travel in South America but the flights would kill me for sure.  Thank you for the review.  I always appreciate hearing what you have to say because I find you very balanced.  Congratulations n the retirement.

[Dobby36]

@Florida_gal_50 the OP said “with the exception of Aruba”. I was on this trip with you @Roz, and it was good running into you at Trivia. So glad you signed up for another long cruise! Our next one is Asia too.  Flights will still be long, but hopefully smoother for you next time. Cheers 🙂

[CruiserBruce]

13 minutes ago, Florida_gal_50 said:

That’s not good about Aruba.  I hope that isn’t what is in the future.  I’ve always been right in the downtown area.  I personally love to travel alone.  I was married for a number of years and felt more alone then.  I never would have travelled as much as I have.  I’ve taken to limiting interaction with others as much as possible because some people ask inappropriate questions.  I would love to travel in South America but the flights would kill me for sure.  Thank you for the review.  I always appreciate hearing what you have to say because I find you very balanced.  Congratulations n the retirement.

I think she was actually highlighting that Aruba dock IS NOT in an industrial area.

[Dobby36]

And I agree with pretty much all you said, too! The worst point for me was the Lido. Things seemed less organized and almost always busier than I’ve ever seen it.    People sitting in there in couples for hours reading and taking up a four top is one reason.  I also think with the switch to non-self service at a lot of stations there needs to be more signage or the staff needs to take more control somehow.  It’s confusing to some and people line up in either direction and it’s not well done now. Also, the tables aren’t cleared as quickly as they used to be in my experience so it’s harder to tell if someone is up getting food or has actually left.  
 

anyhow, thanks for sharing your review here!

[0106]

@Roz Thank you for posting this review.  I will be doing a 22 day SA & Antarctic cruise in January 2024.  What was your favorite tour in Argentina, Uruguay or Chile? Did you do any private tours?  If so, any specific operator you would recommend.

[Florida_gal_50]

44 minutes ago, Dobby36 said:

@Florida_gal_50 the OP said “with the exception of Aruba”. I was on this trip with you @Roz, and it was good running into you at Trivia. So glad you signed up for another long cruise! Our next one is Asia too.  Flights will still be long, but hopefully smoother for you next time. Cheers 🙂

Ok now I got it.  Pretty much everywhere I dock is an industrial container port.  Rare to be in the center of town.

Edited May 2, 2023 by Florida_gal_50

[Florida_gal_50]

46 minutes ago, Dobby36 said:

And I agree with pretty much all you said, too! The worst point for me was the Lido. Things seemed less organized and almost always busier than I’ve ever seen it.    People sitting in there in couples for hours reading and taking up a four top is one reason.  I also think with the switch to non-self service at a lot of stations there needs to be more signage or the staff needs to take more control somehow.  It’s confusing to some and people line up in either direction and it’s not well done now. Also, the tables aren’t cleared as quickly as they used to be in my experience so it’s harder to tell if someone is up getting food or has actually left.  
 

anyhow, thanks for sharing your review here!

They were cleaning tables too fast on my cruise.  I mentioned to a couple sitting close to me I was just getting up for a minute and I’d be right back.  I was literally gone for a minute and everything was gone and someone was sitting in my place.  It wasn’t even that busy!  I tend to go as soon as it opens to avoid as many people as possible.

Edited May 2, 2023 by Florida_gal_50

[Roz]

33 minutes ago, 0106 said:

@Roz Thank you for posting this review.  I will be doing a 22 day SA & Antarctic cruise in January 2024.  What was your favorite tour in Argentina, Uruguay or Chile? Did you do any private tours?  If so, any specific operator you would recommend.

I'll respond to your question tomorrow when I have computer access and it's easier to type. 

[Roz]

23 minutes ago, Florida_gal_50 said:

Ok now I got it.  Pretty much everywhere I dock is an industrial container port.  Rare to be in the center of town.

I didn't expect to be in the center of town but some of ports were quite a distance away.  The worst was Lima where it was an hour drive each way in big city traffic. 

 

Private operators weren't allowed in the port areas which is why I couldn't find tours that would pick me up near the ship.  HAL didn't tell us ahead of time that they or the port authority would operate shuttles. 

[Roz]

@Dobby36, nice meeting you too.  I played trivia several times and thought some of the questions were really strange.  What Asia cruise did you book? I'm going on the 28-day Noordam cruise that leaves Singapore on January 5, 2025 and goes through Indonesia. 

[Florida_gal_50]

17 minutes ago, Roz said:

I didn't expect to be in the center of town but some of ports were quite a distance away.  The worst was Lima where it was an hour drive each way in big city traffic. 

 

Private operators weren't allowed in the port areas which is why I couldn't find tours that would pick me up near the ship.  HAL didn't tell us ahead of time that they or the port authority would operate shuttles. 

Does the ship dock in Lima?  I few years back I was on a cruise that was docked there a few days.  I loved it.  The port had another name which I can’t remember for the life of me. We went to a “mansion” for a lovely dinner and walk around the square.  It’s one of my favorite memories.  We also did a really cool market.  Some table mates watched them fill trucks for 3 days then complained about it. Such a waste.  Hal released my shorex for my fall cruise a few months back and I was in there like dirt.  Also on my last cruise hal did several port switches.  There was a new port and I booked right away as soon as they were available.  With hal offering hia I’m finding booking shorex need to be booked pronto. I only booked my last cruise about 7 weeks before I left but I still managed to get some decent choices.

 

I just googled the Lima port is called Callao.

Edited May 2, 2023 by Florida_gal_50

[Roz]

@Florida_gal_50, we were docked in Callao.

[Dobby36]

20 minutes ago, Roz said:

@Dobby36, nice meeting you too.  I played trivia several times and thought some of the questions were really strange.  What Asia cruise did you book? I'm going on the 28-day Noordam cruise that leaves Singapore on January 5, 2025 and goes through Indonesia. 

Our cruise to Asia is with Celebrity, in November from Tokyo to Singapore.  The next HAL one for us is a short one in Canada/New England in the fall to see the leaves change color. 

[Florida_gal_50]

5 minutes ago, Roz said:

@Florida_gal_50, we were docked in Callao.

I know we took a cab one day, no problem.  Our “mansion” was a hal shorex and the market was a hal shorex.  We found out later it’s not the safest place in the world so I don’t think I would have gone out by myself.  Frankly all the crazy things we did that cruise I’m surprised we made it out alive.

[oakridger]

@Roz Welcome home and thank you so much for your concise and balanced review.  I also met you on Oosterdam on a Mexican Riviera cruise at the beginning of 2018.  I was originally from the other end of Tennessee, hence the CC handle, and I have noted your postings. It would be fun to run into you again sometime! Congratulations on your retirement!!  We talked about it at the time in 2018 and I also have since retired and just love it!  (Other than that nasty couple of years of pandemic anyway)

 

A couple people have mentioned the 2025 cruise you will be on, and I have started to consider it.  We'll see.......

 

~Nancy

[Roz]

Oh my gosh!  Now I remember you. I was cruising with a group my TA put together.  Congratulations on your retirement. 

[Roz]

@oakridger, that cruise is one time, unique itinerary. You should seriously consider it. 

[0106]

@Dobby36 I would appreciate any insight you have to the excursions too, same questions I asked Roz… What was your favorite tour in Argentina, Uruguay or Chile? Did you do any private tours?  If so, any specific operator you would recommend.  Thanks