On Board Le Ponant — Southern Kimberley Sailing Expedition — August 30-September 8, 2023

[AussieBoyTX]

5 hours ago, Jim_Iain said:

I've been periodically checking the Le Ponant Webcam - 

 

https://us.ponant.com/le-ponant  

 

I clicked through and can confirm that is indeed us! 🤣

Check this afternoon Western Australia time and you should see her at sail.

[AussieBoyTX]

Tuesday, September 5, 2023

 

We woke this morning at Talbot Bay for a day of adventure! We did get to sleep in a bit and left at 7:30 am to tour the larger gap of the Horizontal Falls. We rode in the rough water as it came in to fill the bay. After all three Zodiacs had a few tries, we moved away from the falls and watched the “fast boat” go back & forth through the falls at high speed

 

The fast boat was on our agenda later in the day, so we went to explore the striking landscape — and also the rather large operations of the company that offers seaplane transfers from Broome, Darwin & Derby to the fast boat service. Four Cessna Caravans were regularly bringing new guests for the experience. They also have overnight accommodation and offer 24 hour experiences priced at what looks like 2,000 Australian dollars per person. It was making our stay on Le Ponant seem quite reasonably priced!

 

As we worked our way back to the ship, we came across a Lemon shark patrolling the shore. This delayed us only a bit and we arrived back on board at 9:30.

 

Surprisingly, we had a gap in the schedule and were left to our own to enjoy coffee or left to our own devices as we waited for our next Horizontal Falls experience at noon.

 

At 11:50 a fast boat arrived at our marina and all seventeen guests and several crew members boarded for the exhilarating high-speed ride through the upper gap of the falls. The tide had reversed, so the experience was different than what we had seen earlier. I guess those who booked the 24-hour experience got to try the falls several different ways.

 

Midway through the experience, our fast boat skipper paused to share the deep cultural and spiritual significance of the Horizontal Falls to the indigenous peoples of the region, including the Dambimangari and Wunambal Gaambera. According to local Dreamtime stories, the landscape around these tidal phenomena was carved by the Rainbow Serpent, a powerful ancestral being. The churning waters themselves are thought to represent the Serpent's passage through the land, continually shaping and influencing the world around it. For the indigenous people, the Horizontal Falls are not just a marvel of nature, but a living, sacred site that encapsulates the creative and destructive powers of the Dreamtime. This perspective added a profound layer to what was already a breathtaking experience.

 

A couple more runs through the falls and we were back to Le Ponant half an hour later for lunch! I was hungry and had a small piece of tempura battered fish, tuna sashimi, chicken satay and salted caramel ice cream. Incredibly it was already well past two and we went upstairs to watch the ship sail out of Talbot Bay. After weaving our way through poorly sounded waterways and islands, we broke through a narrow passage into open water and this allowed the captain to raise sail again and we were once again under wind power.

 

I went to see this from the bridge and had half an hour with the captain as he walked me through all of the ship’s systems, all of which had been recently refitted at Le Ponant’s recent overhaul.

 

Some guests stayed on the sun deck all afternoon, others took a rest and we all convened back for our daily briefing at 6:30.

 

We enjoyed cocktails and we all went to dinner late. Each night, we’ve moved more tables together so we now have only two. I believe the goal is to fit us all at one table by Thursday… Dinner was well done, I had a pumpkin & ginger soup, curried lentils, roast duck and lemon meringue tart. Prawns and scallops were also on offer.

 

Some retired to the lounge for a nightcap, but being already well past my bedtime, I went off to bed, looking forward to a very late 10 am Zodiac tour of Hidden Island / Banggoon.

[vada_9]

Lucky you getting to go on the fast boat through the falls. When we were there in July on Le Laperous, that option was cancelled. Originally it was an extra cost excursion. The fast boat tours were happening, but I think Ponant was waiting on the outcome of last years accident.

[AussieBoyTX]

Wednesday, September 6, 2023

 

We’re making our way towards Broome now and had a fairly long sail overnight to Hidden Island. This meant we could have a leisurely breakfast (again with a perfectly prepared eggs Benedict), followed by a Zodiac tour departing at 10 am.

 

Honestly, I had low expectations for the tour, but I was proven wrong! We had lots of animal sightings in the shallow water, starting with a pod of Bottlenose dolphins that stayed with us for a few minutes. Then, we saw a small Black Tip reef shark right at the water’s edge. As we worked our way into the channel separating the islands, we found a three meter long saltater crocodile floating apparently docilely on the surface. However, it wasn’t actually staying still — it was working its way towards us very slowly — perhaps just checking us out, or maybe just letting us know who’s the boss.

 

We rounded out the Zodiac tour seeing a pair of Eagle rays and watching whirlpools form as the tide rolled in. Our guides would also note that we saw lots of raptors, including Osprey and White-Bellied Eagle, and pelagic birds, including Shearwaters and Brown Boobies.

 

We returned in time for lunch. In the heat of the day, it was better for us to eat inside and we had a leisurely lunch. Another wonderful fish was offered, but again, the Ponant Burger is never a bad choice. I had half of a club sandwich and some strawberry sorbet.

 

In the early afternoon, Le Ponant moved to the other side of hidden island and we were invited for a Zodiac landing at Silica Beach. The beach is fairly unique in the Kimberley with extremely fine, pure white silica sand. It’s extremely striking against the ochre-colored Kimberley rocks and it seems impossible to have this lone white sand deposit here.

 

We arrived at the beach, finding it pristine, with only a couple of footprints from the Ponant advance team who had set up a tent and drinks ready for us. The beach was gorgeous and lived up to its fame — the only damper for those inclined was the water was a bit cloudy, making it unsafe to swim. Still, we enjoyed the beach and the cocktails and some played a game before we returned back to the ship at 5:30 pm.

 

This night was our final gala night and the introduction of the crew. I love not having the gala on the final night and think this is more fun and relaxing than having to deal with a long dinner and evening wear and trying to pack it all away before the morning disembarkation.

 

We began with a farewell cocktail with our Captain and the introduction of the crew — all thirty-two crew members! Even on this small ship, aside from the officers, hotel and sail staff, there were a few we had not seen, including the engineering and kitchen staff. Of course, everyone got enthusiastic applause, but there was more energy for our hard-working restaurant and bar staff and our housekeepers and especially for our nurse, who came with us on all the excursions with her two backpacks of emergency gear, was first to start a dance and always had a smile for us.

 

On a somber note, our Captain took a moment to mention that three crew members currently on board were among those captured during Le Ponant's 2008 run-in with Somali pirates. For those unfamiliar with that darker chapter in the ship's history, it occurred on April 4, 2008, when the ship was seized off the coast of Somalia. A ransom was eventually paid for the crew's and ship’s release, and French commandos later recaptured six of the pirates and some of the ransom. This incident has since contributed to heightened international efforts to combat piracy.

 

After the introductions, nobody was in a hurry to go to dinner, but we did eventually go to start the gala dinner. The Captain’s Table was inside and the weather was kind of iffy, with some choosing inside and others out. I saw my French friend was at the Captain’s Table. He was quite pleased to have been invited and dressed appropriately, setting the standard for the rest of us. We actually began outdoors to enjoy our watermelon soup amuse bouche, followed by reef fish and fennel. Then we felt a bit uncomfortable in the wind, so went inside for simply and perfectly prepared filet of beef, followed by Pavlova for dessert.

 

Our conversation was too animated to end at dinner and many of us adjourned to the lounge to share stories — many of them involving travel in Africa twenty or even forty years ago. Nonetheless, we made it to bed before midnight.

 

Tomorrow, a day at sea (and a Zodiac tour of the Lacapede Islands).

[AussieBoyTX]

Thursday, September 7, 2023

 

We woke to find the sails were raised as we continued towards the Lacapede Islands. We had a leisurely morning — breakfast (with eggs Benetict, of course), a detailed lecture on the meteorology of tropical cyclones. The lecture was well attended, which surprised me a little. Then lunch. There were great choices, but it was also my last chance for the Ponant Burger, this cruise, and as I say, it’s never a bad decision.

 

During lunch, we arrived at the Lacapede Islands. The first thing I noticed was not that the islands were mostly white sand jutting out of the water, nor was it the hundreds of brown boobies surounding the ship. Rather, it was the strong 4G Telstra cellular service, which seemed odd.

 

We weren’t all that excited about the Zodiac ride, but it was the last of the trip, so off we went. It was fine. Yes, there are thousands of brown boobies and other birds, such as pelicans, sea eagles and all of the marine birds you’d expect. What was more interesting was the cove, which was filled with sea turtles, a few reef sharks, a lemon shark and two saltwater crocodiles. That made for some great sightings.

 

We made it back to Le Ponant quite a bit before sunset and had time to clean up before sundown Champagne on the Sun Deck, followed by cocktails in the lounge.

 

Some of us went back to the Sun Deck to watch the International Space Station pass overhead. Although I have an app that tells me each time the ISS passes overhead, this is only the fourth time in eight years that I’ve been able to see it!

 

Since we were steaming to Broome, it was quite windy and dinner was served inside — this meant that the grandiose plan to have a single table for all of us to sit at failed and we were seated at three tables of six inside. We were offered a beetroot borscht (yes, the soup), asparagus with goat’s cheese, and seared tuna. For dessert, I had chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream. All courses were delicious. There was great conversation and reminiscing about our trip. We lingered for a while and as we were preparing to leave, the crew surprised us with a birthday cake for one of us. It was a delacate hazlenut and there was enough for all of us to have a small slice.

 

After that, we all decided to go to bed. I don’t think any of us stayed up for a nightcap.

 

Friday, September 8, 2023

 

For those of us up early, we saw the Broome harbor pilot board, followed by a tug boat to help keep Le Ponant back from the pier during docking, as the tide tried to push us into it.

 

After docking there was time for a final breakfast before we were called to the Sun Deck for disembarkation. Most of the crew we saw regularly were there to wish us well. We were struck that our Captain’s thank you seemed particularly heartfelt and that really underscored all the time we spent with him over the week.

 

A bus was ready to take most of us to the airport for flights to Perth and a couple of us to hotels to enjoy another couple of days before returning home.

 

As I sit in my hotel in Perth, scrolling through photos, I'm reminded of how this week has been a mix of contrasts that somehow blended perfectly. I mean, where else can you go from spotting ancient indigenous art one day to seeing saltwater crocs the next, all while enjoying some top-notch eggs Benedict in the morning?

 

This wasn't a typical cruise; it was more like a personalized journey with 16 other like-minded souls. We got the luxury of fine dining and plush accommodations, sure, but what made this trip truly special were those unique experiences. Whether it was the adrenaline rush from our Zodiac adventures, the serene moments on Silica Beach, or the educational tidbits from the lectures, this trip had it all.

 

And let's not forget the crew. The warm applause during their introduction wasn't just polite clapping; it was genuine gratitude for their hard work. Hearing about the ship's history, especially from crew members who've been a part of it, gave the journey an added layer of depth.

 

All in all, this trip with Le Ponant offered a little bit of everything—comfort, adventure, and a hefty dose of learning. It's a week I won't be forgetting anytime soon.

[jpalbny]

What a great trip! Thanks for your reports. Some day we will have to try Le Ponant.

[AussieBoyTX]

Summaries for the pictures "helpfully" provided by ChatGPT

 

Friday, September 1, 2023

 

We kicked off our journey flying into the idyllic Kuri Bay on a retro Grumman Mallard, with awe-inspiring vistas of Australia's rugged coastline below us. The moment we landed, we were treated like royalty by the team at Paspaley Pearls, who not only fed us an opulent three-course lunch but also gave us an up-close look at their intriguing pearling process. But the real cherry on top? Setting foot on Le Ponant. We were met with warm smiles and Champagne, and a surprise room upgrade to a Mistral Junior Suite made us feel even more at home. Capped off the day with a moonlit dinner on deck, followed by some crucial safety briefings to gear us up for the expeditions that lay ahead. Couldn't have asked for a better start!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AussieBoyTX]

 

Saturday, September 2, 2023
 

Today was an absolute rollercoaster of tides and wildlife at Montgomery Reef. We hit the waters in Zodiacs after a heavenly eggs Benedict breakfast, zooming through the 20-nautical mile round trip. Thanks to the super-moon, the tides were nuts, rising a whopping 12 meters! We got up close and personal with reef sharks, turtles, and eagle rays as the rising tide literally lifted us over the coral. But the real jaw-dropper was a massive crocodile sunning itself on an island. We took a breather for some soft drinks and then raced the receding tide back to the ship. Lunch was low-key—a club sandwich and some wine before heading back out to witness the almost surreal spectacle of the reef "rising" from the ocean during low tide. As the sun dipped below the horizon, we rescued some "stranded sailors" (read: our cocktail-setup crew) from a sandbar and headed back to a VIP dinner invite from the Captain himself. Exquisite food, a sunset toast, and the promise of sails going up tomorrow—seriously, could this get any better?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AussieBoyTX]

Sunday, September 3, 2023

 

Waking up to the surreal hues of Raft Point (Ngumbirri) was like stepping into a painting. The cliffs glowed in impossible shades of orange, and we got an up-close look at the reef's super-resilient corals—our guide dubbed them "supercorals." With food indulgence guilt hanging over me, I just snacked on shrimp gyoza before we cruised deep into the Sale River. Found this unexpected Eden—a freshwater hole tucked into a rainforest—and trust me, nothing ever felt as refreshing. Once back on Le Ponant, it was recap time in the lounge, where everyone shared their day's insights before we all sat down to another gourmet meal. Barramundi and lime creme caramel? Oh, yes! But I'm already buzzing for tomorrow; we're meeting local Indigenous artists and possibly diving into another secret swimming spot. How do these days keep topping themselves?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AussieBoyTX]

Monday, September 4, 2023

 

Today was a cultural deep dive, and it started before the clock even hit 7:00 am. We met the Arraluli people, the Traditional Owners of Freshwater Cove, for a Welcome to Country ceremony. The ochre paint they used to anoint us meant more than just a simple greeting; it was an invitation to share in their spiritual and cultural heritage. We even hiked up to see some of their ancient art caves. Got back just in time to rush up to the Sun Deck for a short-lived attempt at sailing—short-lived 'cause the wind wasn't having it. Anyways, I indulged in the Ponant burger, which lived up to its reputation as the ultimate comfort food. 

 

The afternoon was for the adrenaline junkies among us. Ten of us braved the waters to Ruby Falls, climbing up the rocks for a croc-free freshwater swim that felt like heaven. The ride back? Well, let's just say it was a wet and wild adventure. Just when we thought we were done for the day, the captain called us up for a Champagne sunset sail, and boy, did Le Ponant show off, hitting a brisk 12 knots with sails fully unfurled. Tomorrow? We're tackling the mythical Horizontal Falls at Talbot Bay. And trust me, we're all here for it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ciaranaman]

Oh wow!!  That last series of photos is stunning!   A few years back we endured the 14hr flight to Sydney, and back, and pretty much agreed we'd probably never to that again.  Your incredible pics almost make me want to rethink that decision!   This world is just so big with so much to discover and be in awe over!  Thank you for sharing your adventure and making us feel like we've almost been there 😊!  I'm so looking forward to tomorrow's report!

~Bernadette

[AussieBoyTX]

29 minutes ago, Ciaranaman said:

Oh wow!!  That last series of photos is stunning!   A few years back we endured the 14hr flight to Sydney, and back, and pretty much agreed we'd probably never to that again.  Your incredible pics almost make me want to rethink that decision!   This world is just so big with so much to discover and be in awe over!  Thank you for sharing your adventure and making us feel like we've almost been there 😊!  I'm so looking forward to tomorrow's report!

~Bernadette

 

It's "only" four hours further... 😱🤯

[LincolnLegend]

Thanks @AussieBoyTX for taking me back to the Kimberley, my expedition cruise onboard Le Soleal in June/July feels like forever ago. I did intend to do a trip report but haven't got around to it, oh well, I still have the photos so you never know!

 

the only thing that disappoints me a little is your description of the horizontal falls. We had booked a fast boat tour and were told that they had all been cancelled by Ponant as they were "supporting the local indigenous people's dislike of it". We did not have the opportunity to go through the falls, we only got as close as we could in the zodiacs. To find that they are now happening again makes me feel like they lied to us. Anywho, move on lol

 

@Ciaranaman honestly, it is definitely worth the flight, I did 10 nights from Darwin to Broome with 5 nights tacked on either end to explore and it was just breathtaking and awe inspiring from beginning to end!

[AussieBoyTX]

1 hour ago, LincolnLegend said:

the only thing that disappoints me a little is your description of the horizontal falls. We had booked a fast boat tour and were told that they had all been cancelled by Ponant as they were "supporting the local indigenous people's dislike of it". We did not have the opportunity to go through the falls, we only got as close as we could in the zodiacs. To find that they are now happening again makes me feel like they lied to us. Anywho, move on lol

 

Sorry to hear that. There was a significant accident last year and I know some cruises stopped doing the horizontal falls because of it.

 

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-05-31/horizontal-falls-tour-boat-crash-maritime-safety/101112852

[lprp]

Thanks for this blog @AussieBoyTX.

We’re doing the Kimberley’s by land and sea next June withe APT. The sea part is on Le Jacques Cartier, chartered by APT.

You have really whetted my appetite.