On Board Le Ponant — Southern Kimberley Sailing Expedition — August 30-September 8, 2023

[AussieBoyTX]

Hello from Broome, Western Australia, the staging point for our cruise on Le Ponant beginning tomorrow.

 

We booked this late — in mid-June, when we found out our 2024 cruise on Le Laperouse was cancelled. With some cancelled cruise compensation from Ponant, the surprise of the Ponant anniversary discount, and not knowing when Le Ponant will sail the Kimberley again, we decided to pull the trigger. Oh, and this trip on Le Ponant will complete our survey of Ponant’s ships — we’ve been on Ponant’s Explorers, Sisterships, Le Commandant Charcot and Le Paul Gauguin and finally we’ll be on the sailing ship that started it all. It’s a bucket list trip for me.

 

This expedition includes two nights in Broome. Twelve of us arrived mid-day, where we were met by Ponant’s representative and taken to the Kimberley Sands Resort, which is comfortable. Another five passengers are already onboard Le Ponant now completing the Northern Kimberley Sailing Expedition starting in Darwin.

 

Thursday, August 31, 2023

 

Today we began with breakfast at the hotel and we were all taken on a tour of Broome, including lunch at Matso’s Broome Brewery (I recommend the cider). Our guide was entertaining and knowledgeable of the area. We got a quick glimpse of many things to see that we might get to check out on our return to Broome next week. In any event, it’s already hot during the day (90+ F) and very, very pleasant in the morning and afternoon (seventies F). I was also feeling a little jet lagged, having flown Dubai — Brisbane — Melbourne — Broome in the past day, so I took a small siesta before we got close to sundown.

 

We went to Cable Beach to watch the sunset and full moon rising — the last Blue Supermoon until January 2037! We also saw the camel trains coming home after the sunset and the four wheel drives also coming in from watching the sunset. We had dinner at Zander’s at Cable Beach — nice place, but we were still stuffed after breakfast and lunch, so shared some fish & chips and a cider.

 

Tomorrow, a flight on the seventy-five-year-old Grumman G-73T Turbo Mallard to Kuri Bay. We're also slated for a 'pearling experience,' the specifics of which are a bit of a mystery. A sobering note: our guide today mentioned that the early days of pearling were brutal, with many fatalities — especially among Indigenous people, Japanese, and Malays. It'll be interesting to see how this industry has evolved. Following that, lunch and then boarding Le Ponant in the late afternoon. (We passed the still required COVID tests, so there’s nothing stopping us now!)

 

 

[jpalbny]

Looking forward to your report! We're hoping to take a Kimberly cruise with Silversea next year.

[highplanesdrifters]

Have a fabulous trip and watch out for the "Salties"!  😁

[Catlover54]

I think the "still required Covid test" is not due to a Ponant policy at this point, but a police of the area where you are boarding.

On Ponant out of Ireland and to Scotland in the spring, we were not required to take a test (just fill out a declaration), 

[AussieBoyTX]

22 minutes ago, Catlover54 said:

I think the "still required Covid test" is not due to a Ponant policy at this point, but a police of the area where you are boarding.

On Ponant out of Ireland and to Scotland in the spring, we were not required to take a test (just fill out a declaration), 

 

Yes, it's an Australian policy and the test is self-administered, so lacks the rigor of the old days.

[AussieBoyTX]

Friday, September 1, 2023

 

Today’s the day! We’re off to join Le Ponant at Kuri Bay!

We began with a nice breakfast with avocado toast and perfectly poached eggs and the twelve of us met at 9:45 for the very short drive to the airport.

 

At the charter terminal, our spotlessly clean Grumman Mallard was waiting for us — as was an amphibious Cessna Grand Caravan chartered from another local company — as well as the pilot’s parents who stopped by for a quick birthday celebration and fresh coffee. After maybe twenty minutes waiting for the crew to be ready, we all had our bags weighed (20 kg max on this flight, soft sided bags only), got the safety briefing on land and went to the planes. Three of us went on the Cessna and nine on the Mallard. Fortunately, we were in the Mallard group — I would have been hugely disappointed if I had missed out on the Mallard flight. We got a group photo in front of the aircraft and quickly boarded.

It was a quick taxi past the oil & gas helicopters, other charter aircraft and the Royal Flying Doctor Service hangars before we entered the runway midfield and took off to the west. Those of us on the right had a great view of Broome and the surrounding countryside as we turned to the northeast and climbed to 9500 feet. The flight was seventy-five minutes with spectacular scenery along the desolate coast, punctuated every so often with small camps or settlements along the coast and some fairly large operation with runway some sixty minutes in. I couldn’t see it well enough to determine if it was perhaps fishing or mining… Or maybe it was Derby — a small town that’s a deep-water port, with a history of pearling & ranching. It’s a gateway to some of the sights of the southern Kimberley.

 

The flight was over too soon, as we arrived at Kuri Bay, with Le Ponant waiting for us in a cove at the Paspaley pearling camp, along with Paspaley’s working boats. Those of us on the right got a spectacular view of Le Ponant as we settled into the water just abeam of the ship. Zodiacs helmed by Expedition Guides arrived to take us ashore and we were at Paspaley’s dock in just a couple of minutes — where we saw last week’s passengers briefly, as they boarded the Zodiacs to take their turn on the Mallard.

 

From there, Paspaley’s crew took good care of us as we spent a few hours in what was effectively a time-burner while we waited for Le Ponant to be readied for our arrival.

 

First, after just a few minutes enjoying ice water with cordial and meeting the guests staying over (three French-speakers, two Americans), we adjourned to a deck overlooking the cove for an extremely leisurely three course lunch. It was delicious! We sat at the end of the table with a French couple of did not speak English and the sole French-speaking Expedition Guide. Great company! We had a first course of various seafood, including pearl meat, prawns and barramundi wings. None of us had, as far as we knew, had eaten pearl meat before — it sells for $300 Australian dollars a kilo — but of course if available in abundance here.

 

The mains were a choice of grilled barramundi or lamb. Both were very well prepared. If every day for the Paspaley team is like this, they eat very well! Dessert was a nice selection of cakes.

 

One member of the team was French-heritage and was able to make sure the French guests were tended to. Also, back at the hotel, two staff members were French, one visiting on a Working Holiday visa. Whether on purpose or not, I thought it was a nice touch to ensure these guests weren’t left adrift.

 

After lunch, we were invited to a short walking tour of the facility and history of Paspaley pearling. The most interesting part to me was that the oyster seeding operations are still performed by Japanese technicians who come for one-year contracts. The Australians are mostly on two-week on and one-week off shifts and many live in Darwin. We also learned that they now have internet — shortly after one of the Australians brought his personal Starlink ground station. Because of the heat, we missed on a longer hike up the hill that would have given us the perfect view of the cove & Le Ponant.

The pearling experience ended with the harvest of two oysters for their pearls. We got to see one perfect or near-perfect twelve millimeter pearl and one like-sized, but misshapen pearl. They were very pretty and I’m sure some would have liked to buy one right then!

Fortunately, it was then 3:45 and time to head towards our ship. On the way, we saw a brief glimpse of the shy Australian humpback dolphin. At the ship, our Captain and Staff Captain were waiting for us to personally help us off the Zodiac and we were whisked inside to the lounge for cold washcloths and Champagne while we waited for our turn for first Covid formalities and then check-in. Over the years, we’ve met several former Captains of Le Ponant and they all commented that though they loved it, it was a “young man’s ship.” Well, our Captain certainly was not young, so he must have a unique passion for this beautiful ship.

 

We were pleased to find that we’d received a welcome upgrade to the Mistral Junior Suite, giving us just a bit more room and a sofa. Australians will be pleased to know that there is a three-pin Australian power adapter provided. Otherwise, the ship has plenty of Euro and US power points.

 

Then began the expected welcoming grind… After just a few minutes to get a shower — it seemed that we all either chose to clean up or unpack. We went back to the lounge for the Captain’s welcome, Life on Board briefing by the receptionist, then the safety briefing by the Staff Captain and emergency drill. Turns out we all get our life jackets and return to the lounge to wait for further instructions. So far, presentations have been English-only and the French expedition guide simultaneously translated for the French guests who wanted it.

We then got a forty-five minute break where we could unpack and then returned to the lounge for a briefing from the Expedition Leader on the expedition aspects of the cruise and the mandatory Zodiac briefing (and liability release). All three guides have ten-plus years experience in environmental tourism. The English-speaking guides are Australian and the French guide is from France, but has lived in New Guinea for ten years.

 

We ended the evening with dinner outdoors at Le Diamant as the moon rose. We started with an asparagus amuse bouche, followed by a cherry tomato & mozzarella salad and very well prepared salmon. For desert, salted caramel ice cream, chocolate mousse and a blueberry panacotta.

 

After that, we headed off to bed after a brief tour of the ship and the “Gift Cabinet (shop) ”

 

Tomorrow, our first day of expeditions at Montgomery Reef — Yowjab — Dambimangari Country…

 

The internet is brutally, if not unpredictably slow, so I expect no pictures until our return.

[jpalbny]

Thanks for posting despite the slow internet. Looking forward to your pictures when bandwidth allows!

[highplanesdrifters]

Sounds like you're off to a rough start!  Seriously, wishing you a wonderful voyage and looking forward to more reports.

 

 

[AussieBoyTX]

Saturday, September 2, 2023

 

Today was all about the dramatic tides at Montgomery Reef. After a wonderful breakfast, including perfectly prepared eggs Benedict, we set out in the Zodiacs for the 20 nautical mile round trip. Because of the super-moon, the tide was especially high, expecting to rise 12 meters. Three Zodiacs set off, with five in our Zodiac and another four English-speaking passengers in the Expedition Leader’s Zodiac. The remainder were in the nominally French-speaking Zodiac.

 

We arrived at the outer barrier to the reef a little early and ran aground—only to be lifted up over the reef and sucked into the inner water within a few minutes. As we were pulled over the reef, we saw reef sharks, turtles, an eagle ray, tropical fish, and lots of interesting coral. As we got closer to the island, we could see sandbars being engulfed by the rising water, and because of the strength of this particular tide, it went right up into the mangrove.

 

At the islands, we saw lots of migratory and non-migratory shore & sea birds, and a crocodile that looked three meters long. Our brain-buster was how the non-migratory Caspian Tern got its name. (We learned later that it’s named after the Caspian Sea.) The churning water was cloudy and was raising up huge amounts of protein foam.

 

We stopped for a quick soft drink or juice and headed out before the now lowering tide trapped us at the island. We stopped on the way back to see some migratory birds at two small mangrove islands before arriving back at Le Ponant for a late lunch. I didn’t have much appetite after the hot & long Zodiac ride, so I had a club sandwich and a glass of white wine and took a forty-five-minute rest before embarking to see the low tide.

 

The low tide was also extraordinary. We sat at the edge of the reef as the land seemed to rise out of the water in real time. It felt like an optical illusion for a bit, until it was very obvious that we were now two meters lower than the reef—even with water surging out at us.

 

As it came close to sundown, we headed back to the ship. We took a small diversion to pick up some stranded sailors on a sandbar—no, that was the crew, who had set up

for sundown cocktails! We enjoyed the setting sun and made our way back to Le Ponant at dusk to find that we had been invited to the Captain’s Table.

 

We got another hour to rest before cocktails and the Captain’s introduction of the senior crew. After he guided the ship out of its shallow water (we were at six meters of water with a four-meter draft), we joined him at his table for dinner. There were four of us—we were joined by two friends from New South Wales.

 

The gala dinner was spectacular, and we were offered a scallop carpaccio to start, prawns on cabbage and lamb, followed by a very complex chocolate tarte. Dinner ended when the captain politely excused himself to supervise the navigation into our evening stop.

 

Tomorrow, we may even raise the sails!

[highplanesdrifters]

Very jealous! We were there for neap tide. You were treated to a full perigean moon.   Wahooo.

[philbob84]

this looks incredible 🙂

[philbob84]

what is the itinery 

[Jim_Iain]

Looking forward to follow your Live Post.  

[AussieBoyTX]

3 hours ago, philbob84 said:

what is the itinery 

 

Ponant calls this a "Barefoot Expedition. For them, this means there is no itinerary set at the moment. We began with the flight to Kuri Bay and end in Broome a week later. Everything in between is determined by the Expedition Leader and Captain based on tides & weather.

[philbob84]

thank you for the clarification. so it could be very full or a lot of sea days as i understand it?

 

Silly question but did you notice what brand of tea and coffee they serve? 

[AussieBoyTX]

4 hours ago, philbob84 said:

thank you for the clarification. so it could be very full or a lot of sea days as i understand it?

 

Silly question but did you notice what brand of tea and coffee they serve? 

 

I guess it depends on the definition of a sea day. We have had Zodiac trips every day -- our first time ashore was this afternoon. And we'll probably go ashore tomorrow. After that, we'll continue to explore the Kimberley by Zodiac, but I don't know if we'll get on land again.

 

It's generally not considered safe to go ashore or get in the water, so I'm surprised we even had this.

 

The coffee is all Nespresso. Small pods in the cabin and commercial pods in the bar & restaurant. There are several varieties of Palace des Thés teas inn the cabins.

[AussieBoyTX]

Sunday, September 3, 2023

 

We started early today with a 7:00 am Zodiac ride around Raft Point (Ngumbirri). Ngumbirri is home to a significant cultural site and home to the Worrorra people’s ancient rock art. Unfortunately, the site was disrespected by visitors during the COVID pandemic and it has been closed to tourism — our guides suggest, permanently. However, the early light made the mesas glow with a brilliant, seemingly impossible orange. We also got to see the coral reef exposed to the air, as it is for hours at a time every day. There were bright red fans, brain corals, and soft corals. Compared to barrier reefs around the world experiencing stress, this reef seems immune — or as the guide suggested, Kimberley coral is “supercoral.”

 

Having overindulged in the past few days, I opted to skip breakfast and lunch, having only some lovely shrimp gyoza before we set out again to the Sale River.

 

This was a long cruise. We ventured far up the river to where the brackish water turns fresh, leaving our Zodiacs on a sandy beach at the entrance to a small rainforest. We walked no more than 100 meters before we found a creek, that quickly became a stream. Maybe 200 meters after that, it revealed a watering hole filled with refreshing spring water (and no crocodiles). We stayed half an hour or so before making our way back to the Zodiacs.

 

On our way back, we stopped in the shade for drinks and to refill the Zodiacs before we returned to the ship.

 

Though there might not be much to describe, there was plenty to talk about, and we all met in the lounge before the expedition briefing to recap the day. BTW, the expedition briefing was offered solely in English and the hotel manager offered a translation afterwards for the French guests.

 

We had another delightful dinner — starting with iced cauliflower & vegetable soup, followed by a shrimp salad and barramundi. For dessert, I had lime creme caramel and salted caramel ice cream.

 

Tomorrow, we meet Indigenous people of the Dambimangari Country at Freshwater Cove and tour their art. In the afternoon, we have the possibility of another refreshing swimming hole at Wijingarra Bard Bard.

 

[AussieBoyTX]

Monday, September 4, 2023

 

Today offered something for everyone, including an even earlier start at 6:50 am, where we made the short Zodiac ride to Freshwater Cove to meet the Arraluli people. They are members of the Wunambal people, and they are the Traditional Owners of the land around Freshwater Cove (also known as Wijingarra Bard Bard in the local language). This means they are the custodians of both the physical area and its spiritual and cultural significance.

 

We began with a Welcome to Country ceremony, where local Indigenous leaders greeted and welcomed us to their land. We were anointed in ochre paint, a traditional medium rich in meaning; each of us was individually welcomed. The ochre signified not just a physical connection to this land, but also resonated with the idea of "bard bard,” ultimately representing sharing in the local dialect.

 

Because of past disrespect by visitors, photography was very restricted.

 

The early start aimed to keep us comfortable as we hiked about a kilometer up a hill to view one of the indigenous art caves. Members of the Arraluli explained the significance of the art and some of the stories associated with it. They wryly noted that some of the vandalism had been caused by their own people who used acrylic paints instead of the traditional earthen dyes and brushes.

 

We returned to the shore still amazed at what we’d seen. We got a quick introduction to some art for sale, a discussion of the solar array they use to keep their refrigeration and lighting running, and what they do in the rainy season — for some, that’s back to their families in Derby, Darwin, or Perth, and for others, it’s work promoting Western Australia tourism.

 

The visit ended with a “tasting” of the fresh water that gave Freshwater Cove its name. Everyone had the opportunity to get their bottles filled and then we returned to Le Ponant.

 

We had intended to complete a leisurely morning — the most strenuous activity being potentially learning about Kimberley birds. Fortunately, we were spared that and the call from the Bridge announced we’d be raising sail momentarily! We all rushed upstairs to the Sun Deck to watch the three mainsails rise. This was very exciting, but the wind was weak & variable, so it was for naught and we soon got “bored” and adjourned to lunch.

 

The lunch choices were appealing, but I went for the ultimate in comfort food on the ship — the Ponant burger. It was very good and could easily be shared by two people. We sat with our French friends and noted that with only seventeen passengers on board, it's easy to share meals and cocktails with everyone multiple times. Still, lunch lingered and we wolfed down a traditional Paris Brest before running to embark on our afternoon adventure.

 

The afternoon was for reasonably fit and active guests, and only ten of us decided to go. Some declined because they knew they'd have difficulty completing the journey, while others abstained due to indulging in food and spirits.

 

Our two Zodiacs worked our way up a Sale River tributary to reach Ruby Falls — one of the most remote seasonal waterfalls in the Kimberley. It was a forty-five-minute ride to reach the falls, and there was a fresh water pool raised slightly above the tributary’s edge — with mullet strangely swimming in it.

 

In the old days (and I don’t just mean pre-COVID in this case), tourists would swim in this pool at the bottom of the falls. However, in 2022, two guides were injured at this pool — the subtext of the article we read to validate our guide’s claims about the incident stated that the crocodile had perhaps acclimated to humans and had begun launching itself at boats in the area!

 

So, we climbed the rocks beside the falls and, for those of us capable, we were rewarded with a beautiful, freshwater swimming hole, sans les crocodiles.

 

Mindful of the tide, we could stay only thirty minutes before we needed to return to our Zodiacs. We had been warned that the return would likely be more rough than our outward journey, and we certainly weren’t lied to. The water was rough, making the 75-minute ride difficult for everyone, especially those of us on the starboard side who got constantly splashed.

 

We returned around 4:15, thinking we had a couple of hours before the next Expedition Briefing; however, the call came from the Bridge inviting us to the Sun Deck for a sunset sail with Champagne. With the change of plans, we watched the crew raise the three mainsails and unfurl the two jibs as we approached sundown. Le Ponant sailed at a brisk twelve knots, and the engine was off. The staff captain invited us to check the controls at the remote bridge.

 

It was a spectacular way to end the day, and our captain said there was promise of another sail tomorrow.

 

Of course, it was not exactly the end of the day — we had cocktails in the lounge, received our expedition briefing for tomorrow, and had dinner inside at Le Diamanté. Some of us went to the lounge for a nightcap, some to the Gift Cabinet for a little shopping, and others to bed — even though we were promised a “late” disembarkation at 7:30 am.

 

Tomorrow is all about adventure, and we're set to experience the awe of Horizontal Falls at Talbot Bay.

[Catlover54]

". . . .Because of past disrespect by visitors, photography was very restricted.. ."

 

 

". . . Members of the Arraluli explained the significance of the art and some of the stories associated with it. They wryly noted that some of the vandalism had been caused by their own people who used acrylic paints instead of the traditional earthen dyes and brushes.. . ."

 

Apparently things also happened during Covid (when no visitors could officially come).

 

I'm confused as to what the nature of the "disrespect" was that would preclude visitor photography (especially when coupled with the members' statement that their own people had used acrylic paints and apparently that itself is vandalism).  I'm having trouble picturing the events: perhaps when no one was looking during Covid, visitors of some sort brought in acrylic paints and together with some Arraluli members (perhaps youths)  used the paints  to make unapproved graffiti and  then took pictures?

 

It is of course the Arralui's place and they can ban whatever they want to ban for whatever reason at any time, but it would be disappointing to us to trek all the way out there and have to rely on just our memories because even supervised photos, without any paints up our sleeves,  are not allowed.  I know some churches and other tourist sites ban photos (even without flash, and even when admission has already been charged) with the hope that people will then buy the pictures sold at the site instead, to further enhance revenue. Perhaps it was as simple as that.

Hopefully it was disclosed in advance that photography would be forbidden on the excursion.

 

Other than that mild snag, it sounds like you had an amazing day!  How have the temperatures and humidity been?

[Jim_Iain]

Really enjoying your post.    I feel like I'm aboard while you explain each of your experiences.

 

Sorry to hear about the poor choices of food at lunch.   Is this something that might be limited to Le Ponant due to it's size  or have you experienced the same on the other class ships.  BTW we are not big eaters and often just have Cheese and a Crusty Bread or Soup for lunch.  

 

I'm a hamburger addict so pleased to read you recommendations.  

[Ciaranaman]

Sounds like a perfect day!  I agree with Jim - reading your review temporarily transports me to a completely different world than the one I'm currently in 😊

Bernadette

[Jim_Iain]

I've been periodically checking the Le Ponant Webcam - 

 

https://us.ponant.com/le-ponant  

[AussieBoyTX]

7 hours ago, Catlover54 said:

I'm confused as to what the nature of the "disrespect" was that would preclude visitor photography (especially when coupled with the members' statement that their own people had used acrylic paints and apparently that itself is vandalism).  

... 

7 hours ago, Catlover54 said:

 

Other than that mild snag, it sounds like you had an amazing day!  How have the temperatures and humidity been?

 

Easy part first. We're in the end of the winter season and temperatures are starting to rise -- we're in the low 90s in the afternoons now, but humidity is okay. As soon as the sun sets the temps quickly settle into very comfortable 70s.

 

I'm at risk of trivializing this, but Australia has a long history of colonial disrespect of indigenous people, culture and religion, so now almost anywhere in the country what we experienced is normal. The nature of the disrespect could be any one of a number of things, but imagery of dead people (which is included in much of the indigenous art) is extremely sensitive to them. Not respecting the religious significance of the art is also sensitive. 

 

It is possible that with an elder's permission, one could get permission for the appropriate pictures, but that person / people were not with us.

 

The remainder is a cut and paste from advice given to me on this topic:
 

When Indigenous communities refer to "disrespect" in the context of their sacred sites, art, or traditions, they often mean a range of behaviors and actions that disregard or undermine the cultural, spiritual, and historical significance of these elements. This could include:

 

1. **Vandalism**: Physically damaging or defacing sacred sites, art, or other culturally significant locations and objects.

2. **Inappropriate Behavior**: Acting in a manner that is considered disrespectful according to the cultural norms of the Indigenous community, which can include entering restricted areas without permission or touching sacred objects.

3. **Unpermitted Photography or Filming**: Taking photos or videos where it's expressly prohibited or without explicit permission.

4. **Cultural Appropriation**: Misusing or trivializing cultural symbols, art, language, or religious markers for non-cultural or commercial purposes.

5. **Littering**: Leaving waste in areas that are considered sacred or significant.

6. **Ignoring Guidelines or Instructions**: Disobeying rules or not listening to community leaders, guides, or signs that provide information on how to conduct oneself in these areas.

7. **Commercial Exploitation**: Using sacred or culturally significant artifacts, designs, or lore for commercial gain without permission.

8. **Intrusive Questioning**: Asking overly personal or inappropriate questions about religious or cultural practices.

9. **Lack of Recognition**: Not acknowledging the Indigenous community's historical, spiritual, and cultural connection to the land or artifacts.

 

The idea of "respect" in these contexts can be a very complex issue and may be deeply ingrained in a community's spiritual beliefs and historical experience, so it's essential to be as informed and respectful as possible when interacting with these communities and their cultural heritage.

[AussieBoyTX]

6 hours ago, Jim_Iain said:

Really enjoying your post.    I feel like I'm aboard while you explain each of your experiences.

 

Sorry to hear about the poor choices of food at lunch.   Is this something that might be limited to Le Ponant due to it's size  or have you experienced the same on the other class ships.  BTW we are not big eaters and often just have Cheese and a Crusty Bread or Soup for lunch.  

 

I'm a hamburger addict so pleased to read you recommendations.  

 

Oh, no, the food choices were appealing. We were offered a grilled local fish and an attractive salad -- but sometimes a burger is the only thing that will do and the Ponant burger does not disappoint. 

[Jim_Iain]

1 hour ago, AussieBoyTX said:

 

Oh, no, the food choices were appealing. We were offered a grilled local fish and an attractive salad -- but sometimes a burger is the only thing that will do and the Ponant burger does not disappoint. 

 

Thanks - makes me feel more comfortable--- I have to say the pictures of the food on Ponant Explorer and Sister Ships has me salivating.   I  enjoy fish but would probably have gone for the Salad at lunch.  

 

I was a Commis Chef (Junior Chef) in a French Restaurant while at University and mostly cook French Style but modify my favorite recipes to  a  low fat / calorie collection of sauces.