Antarctica & Cape to Cape on Cloud 2-21-24

[Fletcher]

Superb photos and video @highplanesdrifters.  A very special place to visit and what incredible weather you had . . . 

[markandjie]

On 3/14/2024 at 5:05 AM, highplanesdrifters said:

Gough Island

Part of the Tristan Archepelago. 

One of the most remote island groups in the world.

 

People sometimes ask me why we travel so much. I always reply that it's a big amazing world and I want to see it all. 

 

Seeing this makes me realize it's even bigger and more amazing than I thought.

 

Still want to see it all. <starts looking for cape to cape itineraries>

[highplanesdrifters]

23 hours ago, Fletcher said:

Superb photos and video @highplanesdrifters.  A very special place to visit and what incredible weather you had . . . 

 

@Fletcher I am humbled. It's amazing what an amateur can do with a cell phone.  Now about that spelling and punctuation.......🤣

[highplanesdrifters]

12 hours ago, markandjie said:

 

People sometimes ask me why we travel so much. I always reply that it's a big amazing world and I want to see it all. 

 

Seeing this makes me realize it's even bigger and more amazing than I thought.

 

Still want to see it all. <starts looking for cape to cape itineraries>

 

I agree.  There is always a place out there that I didn't known needed to see. The Tristan Archepelago and Gough were much more interesting than imagined. They are more than just a remote place.   Yes to C2C!  Let us know what you find.

[highplanesdrifters]

Nightingale Island

 

Calmer seas, no wind and bluebird skies made for another spectacular day.  Nightingale here we come for a zodiac cruise.

 

 

Overnight we had a long commute.😅

 

 

First up, some caves.

 

 

 Petral cruising for chow.

 

 

 

Jackson Pollock was here.

 

 

 

Some of the subantarctic fur seals have a mullet. This genetic mutation started in the 80's.

 

 

Not happy about the Skua.

 

 

 

And now the star of the show, Northern Rockhoppers.

 

 

 

 

Look, @jpalbny you brought me luck.

 

 

Seastack with Tristan in the background. 

 

 

 

 

 

More Rockhoppers, specially back-lit.

 

 

 

 

WARNING GRAPHIC VIDEO 

 

A few Petrals having a Rockhopper lunch.

 

 

 

Remember all those supplies the ship unloaded on Tristan?  Well guess who got treated to Lobster lunch.  Quite possibly the best Lobster I have ever eaten. Simply steamed with a touch of butter. The way it should be!

 

 

After we finished Mahomed came by and offered another round. Oh yes please! A glass of bubbly put us in heaven.

 

 

And the promise of a landing this afternoon.  Is all this really happening?

 

[Fletcher]

On our cruise about ten years ago we somehow managed to land on Nightingale.  Our expedition team were so thrilled they raced ahead up the slippery slope and spent the next hour taking photos of the rockhoppers on the top of a cliff.  Meanwhile, us passengers were let to fend for ourselves and only one expedition team member was left behind in a zodiac in the heavy swell.  It was, shall we say, rather hairy but worth risking life and limb.  

[cruisintime]

"Dropping in" since we're on SS to Antarctica next year! How did the bird flu impact your trip and did they say anything about the expectations going forward?

Thanks for your help.

[highplanesdrifters]

On 3/17/2024 at 7:32 PM, Fletcher said:

On our cruise about ten years ago we somehow managed to land on Nightingale.  Our expedition team were so thrilled they raced ahead up the slippery slope and spent the next hour taking photos of the rockhoppers on the top of a cliff.  Meanwhile, us passengers were let to fend for ourselves and only one expedition team member was left behind in a zodiac in the heavy swell.  It was, shall we say, rather hairy but worth risking life and limb.  

 

 

Sounds exciting.  On one of those risking life and limb hikes there were a few sprained ankles and a broken leg. We began passing on the slippery slope hikes.  Glad you came out unscathed. Did you do a trip report?  Were the Albatros nesting in the Tussock? There were a number of concerns about disturbing them.

[highplanesdrifters]

On 3/17/2024 at 7:45 PM, cruisintime said:

"Dropping in" since we're on SS to Antarctica next year! How did the bird flu impact your trip and did they say anything about the expectations going forward?

Thanks for your help.

 

Will check in with a few of the bird guides to get the latest bird flu info.  Opinions vary.  Stay turned. 

[highplanesdrifters]

Nightingale Island

Part 2

 

No landing this afternoon due to some fur seals with hate in their hearts blocking our path.  Based on @Fletcher description perhaps a nice zodiac cruise is just what the doctor ordered.

 

Rocks, rocks, and more amazing volcanic rocks.

 

 

 

 

For the Birders.

 

We saw numerous Nightingale Thrush and the equally rare Nightingale Finch. Not just a fleeting glance mind you. Lots of chirping, flitting about and other birdsy things.  Sights along the trip were common.  We also saw a few Sooty Albatrosses. So elegant soaring about, dropping things off at their nest. Even easy to spot and enjoy for an amateur. 

 

Major Finch and Thrush spot.

 

 

 

 

Seal pup nursery area.

 

 

 

Aw, what the heck, here's another seal pup video. 

 

 

 

 

 

Cave time.  Yes, these are the vibrant colors we saw.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Zuber drivers were crazy about this cave.  As were we.  We did a double zip through .  Some did 5 passes.  What a delight.  The video does a good job of the insane colors coming to life as your eyes and lens adjust to the darkness.  The smile on Sam's face at the end tells the tale.

tale.

 

 

@drron29. We learned today that touching rocks from a zodiac is considered a landing.  I can neither confirm or deny that we landed.😁

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Inaccessible Island, Tristan Archepelago 

 

We searched for the Inaccessible Island Rail. It is the smallest extant flightless bird in the world.  The ultimate Holy Grail of the trip for the Birders.   It is dark brown and only 5-6 inches. We bobbed  far from shore as the swell was, well, swelly!  It was not easy to spot. No one did.  We got a few Rockhoppers and a pleasant ride before our upcoming 4 sea days.

 

 

The Swell

 

 

 

 

This is 'Where The Pig Fell Off'. Seriously, it's a real place name. Some brilliant government bureaucrat forced some Tristans to start a farm on the top of this volcano.  They did not succeed. Nor did the pig. The Tristans returned to Tristan. The Rockhoppers and seals had BLTs.

 

[highplanesdrifters]

@taxatty

@cruisintime

 

Avaian Flu

 

I've talked to a few of the bird experts on board to try and get a sense of what has happened and the future for South Georgia and Antarctica. It is a challenge to predict exactly what will happen. I'll try and summarize. 

 

Avaian Flu seems to have a 2-3 year cycle.  We are at the beginning of the cycle in Antarctica and beginning/middle in South Georgia.  

 

South Georgia

There is hope that the King Penguin population will show some resistance.  Seal pups in some areas were particularly hard hit. Fears about the Albatros persist.

 

Much of Grytviken was closed including Shackleton's grave.  The Post Office, museum and church were open, and a hike was offered.  We had a zodiac cruise at Salisbury Plain which IMHO may have been better than a landing.  At other sites there were multiple landings where we were surrounded by King Penguins and Seals, including hundreds of pups.  Some site were closed and then re-opened once it was determined that Avian flu was not the cause of deaths. We were scheduled for 5 days in SG but left after 3 to outrun a storm.  I did not feel like we missed out.  

 

Antarctica 

Two popular spots were closed. The Chilean Base and the British Post Office. They have gift shops.  It is impossible to social distance with the critters there.  I don't think you'll miss much by not going to them.  As for the future there, it is anyone's guess.  How and who will monitor the landing sites?  How much resistance will be in the colonies there?  There are many more sites in Antarctica vs SG.  But there are also many more ships.

 

It is hard to say given the unknown,  but you are just as or more likely to miss landings due to weather, swell or hostile fur seals.  I was worried that our trip would be overweighted with zodiac cruises. I found just the opposite.  Except for missing out on a leg stretch the zodiac cruises offered a different perspective, the ability to see more, and sometimes were preferable. That being said, nothing compares to being part of the multi species interaction on land.

 

Land vs Zodiac

 

The Expedition team picks a landing spot based on how few critters are there.   As the day progresses more and more of them gather around the spot out of curiosity and it becomes a happening attracting even more.

 

 

King Penguins on icebergs with hundreds swimming about the berg and your zodiac.

 

 

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions. 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Sea days, sea days, glorious sea days.

 

I was worried there would be too many on the C2C. Please can I have a few more.

 

Unheard of calm seas for the entire crossing. Rarely more than 2 meter swell. 

 

What's this? No chair hogs?  May be more rare than the calm seas or the Inaccessible Rail.

 

 

Let's throw a party to celebrate all the amazing, kind, witty, and wonderful people we have met.  You know who you are.

 

 

A quiet sunset dinner. 

 

 

An example of the plethora of activities should you need entertainment. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jpalbny]

Loving your posts! Wish we were cruising together so we could share in the fun.

[southerngoose]

@jpalbny I'm sorry that his cruise is over!  I've enjoyed it without even going on it.

[highplanesdrifters]

12 hours ago, jpalbny said:

Loving your posts! Wish we were cruising together so we could share in the 

 

One of these days!

 

[highplanesdrifters]

10 hours ago, southerngoose said:

@jpalbny I'm sorry that his cruise is over!  I've enjoyed it without even going on it.

 

It's not over yet. Still on ship for one day in Walvis Bay.   

 

Who wants to go on a little safari with us?

[lincslady]

Yes please.  This has been one of the most interesting cruises ever to enjoy from just sitting at the laptop.  Many thanks.

[Port Power]

2 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

 

It's not over yet. Still on ship for one day in Walvis Bay.   

 

Who wants to go on a little safari with us?

 

I hope you see the “small five” at Walvis Bay.  Just don’t get too close to a death adder!

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

On 3/22/2024 at 4:12 AM, lincslady said:

Yes please.  This has been one of the most interesting cruises ever to enjoy from just sitting at the laptop.  Many thanks.

 

We are all armchair travelers when we're not traveling. Thanks for the encouragement. 😁

[highplanesdrifters]

On 3/22/2024 at 5:10 AM, Port Power said:

 

I hope you see the “small five” at Walvis Bay.  Just don’t get too close to a death adder!

 

 

 

Small five?  I'm still trying to process what I just saw. TBH, I'll be happy to just relax for a few days. If more creatures happen to grace me with their presence it would be lovely. 

[highplanesdrifters]

Walvis Bay, Namibia 

 

And now for something completely different. 

 

 

Always a shocker to roll into an industrial port.  And then.....immigration.   We were bussed to a small government building for a 45 minute wait in a crowded airless hallway. Ugh!

Don't worry,  it gets better.

 

 

We did not have to go into this room, whew.

 

 

Our charming view. 

 

 

Now for the good fun.  Dorob National Park.

 

 

The dark part on the dunes is magnatite.

 

 

First snake.

Horned Viper - I think.

 

 

Our guide photographing him, yikes.

 

 

Action shot.

 

 

Our guides did not wear shoes. Yikes.

 

 

Check out this translucent Palmeto Gecko. He's a poser.

 

 

His tail will grow back in a few months.

 

 

Catch and release.

 

Our guide regularly jumped out of the truck searching for all these little critters. 

 

This time she found a water Beetle.

 

 

Stay tuned for Part 2.

 

 

[Port Power]

2 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

Walvis Bay, Namibia 

 

And now for something completely different. 

 

 

Always a shocker to roll into an industrial port.  And then.....immigration.   We were bussed to a small government building for a 45 minute wait in a crowded airless hallway. Ugh!

Don't worry,  it gets better.

 

 

We did not have to go into this room, whew

 

Our charming view. 

 

 

Now for the good fun.  Dorob National Park.

 

 

The dark part on the dunes is magnatite.

 

First snake.

Horned Viper - I think.

 

 

Our guide photographing him, yikes.

 

 

Action shot.

 

 

 

Check out this translucent Palmeto Gecko. He's a poser.

 

 

His tail will grow back in a few months.

 

 

Catch and release.

 

 

Our guide regularly jumped out of the truck searching for all these little critters. 

 

 

This time she found a water Beetle.

 

 

Stay tuned for Part 2.

 

 

Those are some of the “small five”.  Horned viper aka death adder; chameleon; gecko; skink.  So incredible how translucent the gecko is! Apart from immigration, I’m glad you enjoyed your tour.   Now enjoy some relaxation down time.

Edited March 23 by Port Power

[RyanJCanada]

Such great posts - thanks so much! We were away in Morocco and Paris so just getting caught up now. Were there any children on either of the legs? And if so, did you have a sense of ages? Our kids had a great time hanging out with the adults on our 20 night Dublin-Greenland cruise last summer, but curious as to whether they’re likely to be the only under 18s for Antarctica and the Cape to Cape 

Edited March 23 by RyanJCanada

[highplanesdrifters]

8 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

Such great posts - thanks so much! We were away in Morocco and Paris so just getting caught up now. Were there any children on either of the legs? And if so, did you have a sense of ages? Our kids had a great time hanging out with the adults on our 20 night Dublin-Greenland cruise last summer, but curious as to whether they’re likely to be the only under 18s for Antarctica and the Cape to Cape 

 

Thanks for the kind words.

No kids on either leg. Just adults acting like children.  We had a particularly high ratio.  But it was made up by all the fantastic people we met.

 

  There were kid's on our previous Antarctic trip. I'd say 8-14 years old, a total of maybe 5. There were also older teenagers lurking about. They were all great kids, spoiled by Expedition Staff and well loved by all crew. I wouldn't hesitate to give yours the gift of that amazing place.   

 

Paris Morocco sounds fab.  Did you post anywhere?