cruisemom42

Don't get me wrong -- I totally agree with what Venice has decided to do. But it's been under discussion for many years and it would have been so much more sensible to start implementing a solution while phasing out cruising rather than stopping all cruises by fiat without a good solution available.

So what are you saying? That if someone in your party tested positive you'd still go on the cruise?

The Cole Haan ones have their "Cloudfeel" padding which is supposed to make them more comfortable for walking. But the leather-wrapped heel had no give to it and was rubbing my heel. They might work for someone else. Here's a link to the Cole Haan ones at DSW. On the Cole Haan website they were having a sale over Memorial Day on some colors, including the CUTE blue stripe ones -- but if they're not comfortable then back they go: https://www.dsw.com/en/us/product/cole-haan-cloudfeel-stitchlite-espadrille-slip-on/508552?activeColor=405 A couple of years ago I bought a version of these in both navy and black and they have been very comfy. Warning -- they aren't "true" espadrilles but they do have that look, and they are lightweight. Perfect to slip on and wear for errands but I wouldn't walk a whole day in them (e.g., sightseeing). https://www.skechers.com/women/shoes/bobs-highlights-2.0---homestretch/113001_NVY.html

Since the ending of Stanley's series, I've had a hole in my Sunday nights. I just found out that PBS is going to start running a new series called Hotel Portofino, set in Portofino Italy and featuring a "British family who open a hotel for upper-class travelers on the magical Italian Riviera during the Roaring ‘20s." The series promises "addictive plotlines in a lush Italian setting" -- sign me up! https://www.pbs.org/about/about-pbs/blogs/news/glamorous-period-drama-hotel-portofino-launching-exclusively-on-all-pbs-platforms-june-19/

I put them on half an hour before going out, thinking I wanted to start breaking them in a little and within 10 minutes I could tell they were rubbing my left heel badly. Luckily I hadn't worn them outside yet -- I think I'm going to send them back. I have some other espadrilles that are slightly less cute but waaaay more comfy and also lighter weight. I think I'll just look for another pair of those...

I'm not sure if either place you mention has their own website, but I did find some hours listed on sites that appear to be from Patmos: http://www.patmosislandgreece.com/patmosapocalypse/holymonasteryofsaintjohnthetheologianandcaveoftheapocalypseoperationhours/index.html https://www.patmos-island.com/en/monasteries/info/apocalypse Unfortunately they do not agree! According to one, the operation Hours (visiting hours) of the Holy Monastery of Saint John the Theologian and the Cave of the Apocalypse are: Every Morning Daily from 08:00 to 13:30 Afternoons from 16:00 to 18:30 on every Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday. And the other says: DAILY FROM 08:00-13:00 AND 14:00-16:00 ON SUNDAYS, TUESDAYS AND THURSDAYS. It's also mentioned that on days when ships call, the afternoon hours may be extended (or added, on days where normally closed). There is an email listed here -- if it were me, I'd send a simply worded email asking about opening hours on your date and mentioning that you will arrived by cruise ship. I have found most Greek cultural sites are very good about responding to queries: http://www.patmosislandgreece.com/contact/index.html

A better way to get to the Colosseum without having to wait for the 9:16 train would be to take the earliest possible regionale train from Civitavecchia, get off at Roma Ostiense station and transfer to the (literally next door, name of stop is Pyramide) metro. Line B two stops to Colosseo. This saves you having to go all the way to Termini and also having to walk to the Colosseum. When you get off the metro and come up the stairs the Colosseum is right across the street.

Busy-ish sort of day today. I have to drop off some returns (overly enthusiastic about Memorial Day sales) and dry-cleaning, then lunch with DS and after we are taking a few things to consigners that just don't work in my new place. It's really heating up here -- on our way toward 90+ temps next week, so OOTD will probably be lightweight (slub cotton) batik tee and lightweight capris. Going to try out my new Cole Haan espadrilles and see if they rub my heels...

Marseille doesn't seem that terrible to me (several visits). I just looked up crime levels and perhaps it is because the crime index in Marseille is virtually identical to the crime index in the city where I live. But like that city, crime in Marseille is not likely to be an issue where tourists go and in daylight hours. Then again I like big cities and do not feel uncomfortable in them. I am also a fan of Naples, which has a lot of similarities to Marseille. Yes, other cities nearby are postcard pretty places to visit. I'm very fond of Avignon. But there's really nothing wrong with spending a day in Marseille either.

That's actually a year-round thing.

There've been many reports about issues with Viator here on CC. Most recently someone who was counting on an airport transfer got stood up last minute..... kind of harrowing. Eurocruiser is absolutely right that Viator is only the middle-man. They do not give the tours themselves. They are relatively reasonable in terms of refunding you but my point is this: I want a good tour, not a refund for a bad tour or an issue. When will you be back in Naples for a do-over? In all likelihood, not soon. And do you really want to spend time with 52 new friends in the coral and cameo factories? I can answer that one: no, you do not. If going to both Pompeii and Herculaneum is important to you, why not look at one of the well-regarded private tour operators? They can make it happen and it probably will not be any (or much) more expensive than booking two shore excursions through your ship. I know it seems intimidating, but it is also extremely easy to visit these two places on your own using the local train or a combination of bus and train. The train stop at Pompeii is literally steps from the main entrance. The stop for Herculaneum is just a few blocks, straight down from the station. Edited to add: Two reports about Viator just within the last month. Report #1 about Viator stranding passengers at airport: Report #2:

Once you get your schedule pretty well nailed down, it's worth spending some time on the logistics of getting around. The metro lines aren't all that useful in central Rome as they tend to skirt around the main areas (too many ruins buried beneath). Buses go everywhere but can be crowded and a bit confusing to use. Walking is good, but sometimes it makes sense to take a taxi both to save a bit of time and to give your feet a rest. There is a taxi rank right alongside the Pantheon, so you are virtually assured of getting an outgoing ride anywhere. But you can't "flag down" a taxi in Rome, so might be a good idea to think about how you'll find a taxi in Trastevere (as I mentioned above) at night, and so on.

Let me start by saying something I should've said earlier -- it's entirely your vacation and any advice we give should be looked at through your own filter and accepted OR rejected. Sitting down for a meal at lunch and dinner, to me, serves two purposes -- it is an experience, and it also forces you to rest and slow down for a bit. You really focus on the food. With food tours I feel that while you might get to taste a lot of food, you don't really relax and you also don't focus FULLY on either the food or your surroundings. It's a bit like multi-tasking, and I prefer to do one thing at a time. Rome is a huge city, so it's not so much true there as in smaller Italian towns, but even in Rome you'll find some places (particularly churches but also some smaller sites/museums) close during lunch. I take that as a sign from the gods of Italian culture that I'm supposed to sit down and enjoy lunch. All the walking tends to solve the issue of extra calories, yet still sometimes by the end of a trip I am feeling a bit "worn out" with all the food. And my thought is that you still have your cruise afterwards and more opportunities for enjoying food in other ports as well. If you are enthusiastic about the food choices, keep them. You can always make adjustments along the way if you just can't face another big meal. I wouldn't necessarily worry about canceling reservations at the last minute. Eating at Armando al Pantheon, I've seen people lined up outside hoping for a table if a reservation doesn't show. By around 15 minutes after the appointed time, any available tables are reassigned to these walk-ins.

and I thought you were the hippie! I'm the punk/goth who still has my collection of buttons from London 1978 and a photo of the black eye I got slam-dancing.

don't forget the felafel. I think I draw the line at dill pickle lemonade though.

This is about the best news I've heard all week!! 😁

Still waiting for the Sex Pistols residency.... 😁 Vegas is a long trip for me and too many minuses to make up for the very few pluses. If I want to foodie it up, I can get to Manhattan much cheaper and easier.

Your last two days look pretty well balanced. I'm glad you found something to replace the bike tour and still get to see the Appia Antica. It will be nice to have your last dinner at Roscioli -- enjoy!! Don't forget to visit Trevi Fountain and toss in your coins to ensure your return. 😃 It's worked for me.

Saturday lunch: Should you decide to do both the Castel Sant'angelo and the Borghese, there are two places not too far from Castel Sant'angelo that I could suggest, depending on what you want. (But first let me say that if for any reason you don't think you'll get to Pizzarium on the other day where you have it planned, then go there! Consider these alternative suggestions: If you have any concerns about time and want something that won't involve a long drawn-out lunch, then I can suggest 200 Gradi. It's a bit closer to the Vatican than to the Castel, but it's one of the few places nearby there that isn't a total rip-off. It's more or less a sandwich place but with fresh ingredients and fresh-baked bread. (Just a warning that the place can be hard to spot, the sign isn't large.) On the other hand, if you want to indulge in the full Italian lunch experience, I've recently heard good things about Arlu, a modern take on the traditional restaurant about halfway between Castel Sant'angelo and St. Peter's. Allow plenty of time, it is not a place to be rushed. Family owned, local and seasonal ingredients. Reservations are recommended. It's expensive but for lunch I'd probably suggest ordering a pasta each and sharing an appetizer. Arlù - Ristorante a San Pietro dal 1959 (ristorantearlu.it)

I'm digesting this all slowly.... But a few comments and initial thoughts: On Friday, your "10 Tastings" tour ends in the center of Trastevere. I would take advantage of your location and stop in to see the churches of Santa Maria in Trastevere (right where you end tour) and also the close by church of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. There are nice piazzas in Trastevere to pause for a coffee if needed (and/or I suspect you'll get a coffee on your tastings tour), so rather than heading back to the Pantheon location immediately, see some of Trastevere. You still have time to get back for your golf cart tour -- I would suggest a taxi, there's a stand in the same piazza where your tour ends. On the other hand... It looks like you may be covering some of the same ground on your Friday tastings tour and your Saturday Twilight Trastevere tour. It looks like you are encouraged to customize the "10 tastings" tour -- I don't know if you'd want to consider having a conversation with the guide about going elsewhere than Trastevere for the last 3 stops. Perhaps they could take you to some tastings in the Jewish ghetto area instead? On Saturday, you could do both Castel Sant'angelo and the Borghese if you would like to fit both in. Note that with the Borghese, there are 2-hour timed slots in the afternoons: they are 1-3 pm or 3-5pm. If you pick 3-5pm, you would have enough time for a lunch after the Castel visit and still be able to get to the Borghese in time. The drawback is that you will sort of be going back and forth across the city all day: from the center to the Vatican to the Borghese to Trastevere. (And it doesn't really allow for any downtime.... The Borghese is the outlier in terms of location. You'd exit it at 5:00 pm and need to be in Trastevere by 6:00 pm. How are you planning to get from place to place? OR: My gut feeling is that you still have a lot of emphasis on food. I know it sounds good on paper, but I think you're going to be stuffed to the gills. With the two tasting tours, it seems to me to be a bit of a waste to be passing by many wonderful places that deserve an inside visit and likely only seeing the exterior. I might consider removing the Twilight in Trastevere tour. Keep the Trastevere tastings on your Friday tour and spend some time in Trastevere after as I suggested above. This would mean you have some open time on Saturday late afternoon. Come back from the Borghese, rest your feet for a few minutes, enjoy a drink on the rooftop of the hotel. Then maybe go have dinner in the Ghetto at one of the places recommended.

Sorry you faced such a number of obstacles to get home. It seems that summer travel this year is going to be a matter of bringing a lot of patience and being prepared to roll with some changes...

Sorry, I don't have anything to add beyond what Hank already posted. I have not stayed in Civi in some years myself (and I wouldn't voluntarily). Certainly I have not read anything about any hotel there that would inspire me to recommend them. I do agree with Hank that you are probably worrying needlessly about the Ryder Cup. Hotels are not going to show any kind of availability this far out, but if you email an individual hotel you MAY find that they are willing to take your reservation now. 😉

My TJs has been very sporadic. Part of it may be due to my shopping time but I also think they are probably having the same supply issues as everyone else. Last time I was there I grabbed some of their frozen felafel. Never had it before but it just appealed as a light lunch or dinner. TJs also sells Tzaziki. I tried them together last night and the felafel wasn't bad at all. I probably would never have looked at them except the Fearless Flyer had a new variety -- dill pickle flavored felafel. I wasn't brave enough to try that one, but the plain is pretty okay. Granted, not like getting them fresh-fried from a stand in the market in Jerusalem, but.... Today I am catching up on random tasks, one of which is getting my DL changed to new address. It's not too hot here but very humid. I washed my hair and it is all over the place, lol. Trying to get it to look decent.

A couple of nights ago I caught the first episode of a new show on the Food Network featuring Bobby Flay and Giada de Laurentis on a food and wine journey through Italy. Hot on the heels of the success of the series featuring Stanley Tucci, it begs the question: has Italy become the epicenter of all the pent-up longing for the food and wine associated with travel that we've experienced during the pandemic? I've never heard or read more about Italian food than over the last couple of years. From the Italian desire to preserve the character of their prosciutto (ever hear about the great prosciutto scandal of 2017?) to the new organic wines and olive oils, to the secrets of a "certified" Neapolitan pizza -- Italians are obsessed with their food, and so are we. I thought it would be fun to have a post that compiled information, ideas, recommendations, questions about food and wine in Italy. And due to a couple of recent "requests", maybe we should start with gelato. I don't profess to be an expert about gelato outside Italy. In fact, my scope is more rightly limited to Rome. I know other cities have their favored gelaterie, but Rome is what I know. So let's start with Rome. Rome has several well established gelaterie. There you will find very traditional gelato, in seasonal but also mostly traditional flavors: San Crispino and Giolitti are great examples of these "grandes dames of gelato". As is Gelateria della Palma, but some Romans seem to turn up their nose at the latter -- it's too much like Candyland and less like a true temple to gelato. (Still it is rumored to have been the favorite of at least one recent pope. Wink, wink.) Anyway, Giolitti and San Crispino both have several branches in the main heart of Rome. Definitely worth a try. A new generation of gelaterie have popped up in the last decade that offer an even stricter artisanal and seasonal approach to their gelato. A good round-up of most of the best names I've heard mentioned are written up here: https://www.romewise.com/best-gelato-in-rome.html. I haven't tried all of these, but I can definitely recommend Gelateria del Teatro for its super-fresh ingredients and especially good fruit and nut flavors of gelato. Plus they have a fun "window" into the kitchen where you can watch them making their magic. Fatamorgana is also good and has a number of locations, so if you are strolling and see one, definitely pop in to look at their seasonal flavors. Otaleg (which is "gelato" backwards) has a following -- in fact, it was THE place Bobby Flay wanted to go in Rome on arrival, a favorite of his from previous visits. They have some flavors only a chef could love, like gorgonzola with "blonde" chocolate and hazelnuts, and a beetroot sorbet. I believe there's one in Trastevere now. Come il latte is on my list to try next time I'm in Rome. How should you eat gelato? However you want -- but a few tips to consider: Gelato is rich, it's better to get just a small cup or cone. Even the smallest cup/cone size entitles you to two scoops of gelato and it is traditional to get two different flavors. Think about all the great combinations -- say dark chocolate and hazelnut or bananas and creme caramel, or strawberry and cream, walnut and fig, peach and ginger, etc. At most gelaterie, you will pay at the cashier first, then you will be served at the counter -- not the other way around as is common in the US. Both cups and cones seem equally popular, but the true gelato afficionado will not ask for any toppings, whipped cream, etc. Beware of any gelateria that tries to upsell you -- it usually means their gelato is not that great on its own. And speaking of which, there are a few unscrupulous places -- mostly sit-down places near popular tourist attractions, like Trevi fountain -- that will scam unwary tourists by recommending hugely oversized "gelato sundaes" with the works. Afterwards they present a hefty bill upwards of 20 euros! Buyer, beware. Ask price first. And one last tip: At any of the places already mentioned, you'll get great, quality gelato. But if you're just passing by a no-name gelateria and are tempted -- take a look at the colors. If they are screaming neon, too bright to be true, they are probably not the real artisanal gelato. Pistachio should be a dull green, not neon green. The exceptions are some of the intense fruit flavors.