Hlitner

First the took away the 7 piece ship bands. They eliminated the brass and woodwinds. Then they eliminated the HAL Cats. Then they eliminated the Production Shows. Then they eliminated the popular Rosario Strings. Now they are eliminating Lincoln Center. I cannot help but wonder how long until somebody decides to eliminate HAL! Hank

We have cruised MSC both before and after COVID (this past October). We thought the service in the YC was up to the pre-Covid standards and the food (in the Yacht Club venues) was slightly improved. IMHO, the biggest negative about the Yacht Club is that the cuisine is not generally up to the quality one expects on a luxury line or a luxury ship within a ship. We cannot offer a comparison to X, since we have not cruised on X in a few years. But for the money we do not think there is anything else in the entire cruise industry that comes even close to the Yacht Club. Hank

We sure hear you and have some concerns on our upcoming 8 weeks in Asia. That being said, what makes you think it will be any different in 2, 5 or even 10 years? And as aging seniors we do not have unlimited time to wait around hoping things improve. There are always risks that impact travel including these darn viruses, wars, unfriendly governments, political unrest, etc. As lifelong adventurous world travelers we have had to accept these factors as part of travel. To be honest, I am more concerned about all the reported cut-backs on HAL than the other problems. Hank

The problem with COVID restrictions is that it is like trying to hit a moving target. The cruise lines and governments change their rules with little notice. When we travel, internationally, we always make sure to be prepared with COVID test kits, Paxlovid, and our vaccination cards. Shortly before we leave on any trip or cruise, we check the latest info from the cruise lines and every government where we plan on visiting. I think this is the new world and it will be the norm for the foreseeable future. About 1 1/2 years ago when we returned to cruising there were some folks here on CC which said they were not going to cruise or travel until COVID was no longer a threat. At that we expressed our opinion that COVID will likely be with us for many decades and there will always be new variants and new viruses. Unfortunately, that has proven too true. Those that are waiting for all this to pass will likely be waiting forever. Last spring when we were driving around parts of Europe, we noticed a noticeable "joie de vivre" unlike anything we have experienced in the past. Many folks had come to the realization that it was time to live their lives, enjoy themselves, and accept that life is full of risk. Others, continue to live in fear, minimize socialization, and radiate a degree of sadness. Even on our cruises (and we have cruised with Seabourn, MSC and Princess within the past year) there are those who obviously are cruising in fear and spend much of their time in self-imposed isolation. That is their free choice but a tough way to live. Hank

We would not be surprised if they are sold out of close to full. Many of us have booked HAL, Asian cruises for the past 4 years only to have them cancelled (year after year). When HAL cancelled our 2020 Asian cruise (I think it was the Noordam) we rolled over our reservation to a similar 2021 cruise. When the 2021 cruise was cancelled we rolled it to the 2022 cruise and when that was also cancelled, we rolled it to the upcoming 2023 Westy cruise. There are many, just like us, who simply moved their bookings forward to the following year. HAL encouraged this behavior with some price guarantees and enhancements. I would think that with the large number of us rolling over our bookings and others who simply want to get to Asia that these cruises are in great demand. Hank

Correct. But we cannot help but wonder if this is the start of new trend at that island.

I think that Verifly is an idea whose time has passed. And it is not just Verifly but also other similar apps (including those mandated by some governments) that have become obsolete. When we have traveled to Europe (and for an upcoming trip to Asia) we take the time (and effort) to complete recommended and/or mandated apps. But when we arrive at embarkation or airports, in many cases the apps are ignored, and officials demand to see all the underlying documents (such as a vaccination certificate). After having this happen a few times one can reach a point where they think, "why bother." We have learned (the hard way) to always carry hard copies of necessary docs. While relying on our phones does sometimes work, there are too many times when hard copies are actually the fastest way to deal with procedures. Hank

There is growing resistance, in ports around the world, to cruise ships and especially larger ships. Every year we are seeing more ports further restrict ships (be it size or numbers) and these restrictions are being driven by public opinion. Just in the USA we have major restrictions now being imposed in Key West, Bar Harbor, Charleston, and other places. In Europe we have seen the trend with the ship ban in Venice and growing concerns about some other ports such as Dubrovnik, La Spezia and Santorini. In the Caribbean, folks that live on islands will often say they do not want to become another St Thomas or St Maarten. Is this what is now driving this issue in Bonaire? While some ports, such as St Barts, will welcome small luxury ships, these same ports simply do not want larger ships who bring their "hoards" of folks who actually contribute little to the local economy. We know a couple who has a 2nd home on Bonaire. Like many who spend time on that island, their interest is mainly diving. Their attitude is that they welcome divers and snorkelers but would prefer that others go elsewhere :). Consider that a "charming" town becomes less charming when it it overrun with thousands of cruisers. Hank

We do have some concerns about the waning quality of some cruise lines. While it has not stopped us from booking in advance (we seldom book more than 15 months in advance for any cruise) it is a concern. As to the food issues, there is a broad group of folks that I call "picky eaters." The reality is that picky eaters come in many varieties be it gluten free, vegetarians, vegans, etc. There are at least 7 kinds of vegetarians! And then there are many folks with various sensitivities and allergies. For cruise lines to deal with all these different types of picky eaters is a real challenge and some do it better than others. Most picky eaters we have met have learned how to deal with their situation (for better or worse). But expecting any cruise line to easily adjust to each person's own problems, wants, and desires is not always rational. Picky eaters must simply take on a lot of personal responsibility for their situation and be their own advocate. I recently learned that there are at least 22 different kinds of "milk" There are also many types of sweeteners and DW sometimes complains that she can find anything but real sugar on some ships :). I do think picky eaters need to have lots of patience, perseverance, and a sense of humor. With all the cut-backs we are seeing (and reading about) on ships, I suspect that it will gradually become more difficult for cruise ships to accommodate all the different requests. Hank

All travel/cruise agents are not alike :). Some are much better, at hand holding, than others. It is up to you to find an agent that best meets your personal needs and appropriate level of responsiveness. While some of us need very little help or counseling, others do appreciate advice. The Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) runs an excellent (and comprehensive) certification program for travel professionals. Their designations range from "Cruise Counselor, Accredited Cruise Counselor, Master Cruise Counselor to Elite Cruise Counselors. Those who have the MCC or ECC (rare) designation have a lot of training and experience. You can certainly call around to a few reputable cruise agencies and ask if they have anyone with these designations and have those folks assigned to your account. The agents that have gone through the training (and hassles) to get these designations are generally well informed and true professionals. One other suggestion is that when you are on cruises, take advantage of opportunities (such as over cocktails or sharing tables in the MDR) to socialize and chat with fellow cruisers. When you meet well seasoned cruisers do not hesitate to ask how they book their cruises and if they have ever found a decent travel/cruise agency and agent. Despite more than 50 years of extensive cruising we are still learning new things from others while on ships. Hank

Interesting article. Also, interesting that the Rotterdam has recently cancelled Bonaire because the authorities say the ship is too large for the pier. We loved the Prinsendam (some called her the "Elegant Explorer") and her size could get her into many ports not available to larger vessels. But HAL has moved to larger ships, and this may cause them a lot of problems as they try to develop more exotic itineraries. Lines like Oceania, Azamara, Viking, the new Explora Journeys, and the usual luxury lines are in a much better position to get into small exotic ports. Hank

That would be to misunderstand the situation. The various cartels (in Mexico) have a lot of power and routinely disagree with the government. This is not about right or wrong but about raw power. The Sinoloa Cartel has lots of power and ability to cause major disruptions in the part of the country where they have lots of control. And this includes Mazatlan. The cartel is angry, and they do not like to lose. How this plays out in the next days and months is a question without an answer. Perhaps DW expressed it best when she said (today) that she was glad we live in Puerto Vallarta and not Mazatlan. Hank

There are major differences between being on a small (usually less than 1000) luxury ship and within a "ship within a ship" scenario. On lines like MSC and NCL, a ship within a ship is truly just that! On Celebrity, the Retreat suites get folks access to restricted parts of the ship, but it is not a true ship within a ship. When we cruise on MSC (in the Yacht Club) it is possible to never leave the Yacht Club enclave (protected with electronic doors) for an entire cruise. The reality is that most of us do leave to go into the other part of the ship in order to take advantage of the many different entertainment venues and some of the alternative restaurants. A small ship luxury line is something special. Last year, when on the Seabourn Ovation one of our ports was Santorini. About 10am, DW and I decided to get off the ship and went down to the tender area only to find that we were the only folks. Others had gone ashore on excursions or were still in bed. The staff radioed for a tender and within a few minutes we had a large shore-based tender (that could hold several hundred souls) that took the two of us ashore! Later that day when we returned to the tender pier we boarded another large tender with fewer than a dozen souls (including our Captain). That is luxury! On Seabourn, if I am sitting at a bar and decide I want caviar I just mention it to the bar tender who calls for caviar. Within a few minutes a waiter will appear and put a large platter in front of me with a generous portion of decent caviar and all the fixens. There is no extra cost for this kind of service. Order that caviar on X and you would probably pay about $100 (and could only get it at one or two places on the ship). On Seabourn if you want a glass of Champagne (booze is included) you will generally get real French Champagne (usually Moutard). If you decide to go to the show there will always be seats. When I go to breakfast and order fresh squeezed OJ it will appear. This kind of smaller ship cruising is not for everyone, but it suits us. Those who want a hairy chest contest, diving for spoons, or music blasting on the pool deck, are not going to be happy on a luxury line. I will also add that we have never seen backwards ball caps (indoors) or wife beater shirts on a luxury ship. It is not about a dress code but simply about cruisers that seem to have enough class to understand what is appropriate. The folks are actually less snobby than many we have met on mass market ships. We have always been able to make some interesting new friends on the luxury lines...which is not always the case on mass market ships. As to the Retreat suites, it is ideal for those that truly enjoy X, want to enjoy all that X has to offer, and also have a degree of luxury. And the larger Retreat Suites are often more spectacular than many of the luxury line suites. For folks that want a 1500 square foot cabin, the mass market line might be a good choice. There are also some souls who like to feel they are "above" the other souls while on a luxury ship the attitude is that "we are all on the same ship." Perhaps it is like explaining that some folks want the mansion in a middle-class neighborhood, while others prefer to have the mansion in a neighborhood surrounded by other mansions. As to the comment about "needing the attention" I wonder if the poster understands that for many of us it is not about the Butlers or "attention." For DW and I it is simply about no lines, better cuisine, excellent service, and not having to be concerned about finding a lounger, seat, etc. Personally I have a strong dislike of queues and actively practice many queue avoidance techniques. The idea of waiting in a line at the Lido to get a salad or eggs benedict is not to my taste. And waiting in a lounge for several hours to get on a tender is just not my scene. Hank

Unless you were there yesterday (Thursday) you missed the big mess. The Sinoloa Cartel (which practically rules that part of Mexico) is on the war path and heaven help anyone who gets in the crossfire. They are quite "upset" that El Chapo's son has been arrested (again). Hank

All transfers between FCO and Civitavecchia are done via bus or van. One can certainly DIY via train, but that involves one train change and still leaves you needing to get from the Civitavecchia train station to the ship. The biggest hassle at the Civitavecchia train station is that unless your train happens to be on Track 1, moving your luggage out of the station becomes a hassle and involves steps. If you don't want ot use HAL transfers (we seldom use a cruise line transfer) you can simply take a taxi or arrange for a private transfer from decent outfits like romecabs,com or romeinlimo.com. Hank

We often advise folks to break down cruise cost to the cost per person/day and do it using the cost of all the amenities you would normally buy. So, for example, if cruising on Seabourn (or most luxury lines) you should consider that they are true all-inclusive (except for shore excursions). One should also compare the space ratios of ships (tonnage divided by number of passengers). So, while X is usually in the low 40s (tons per person) a line like Seabourn is in the 70s. Many folks do not understand that when cruising on luxury lines or even on some "ship within a ship" schemes that there will be no lines! You want to eat, you just go to the dedicated dining room or buffet. Need to talk to Guest Services, you just stop at the Concierge Desk (hardly ever a line). Want to tender ashore? Usually no lines, tickets, or waiting. In MSC's Yacht Club your butler will even escort you down a priority elevator and off the ship. When you return there is usually a separate entrance (no lines). Over the decades we have cruised on 16 cruise lines ranging from budget to large ships to small luxury ships. While Celebrity has always been good to us, the line is simply not competitive at the higher categories (Retreat). We are not being negative about X, but merely stating facts. When planning future cruises (and we are back up to over 60 days a year) we look at X and they are just not competitive. Hank

You are really comparing apples to kumquats! Aix is certainly the closest major city (other than Marseille which is a place many prefer to leave) and has plenty to offer a daily visitor. But Aix is a medium size city with a population of nearly 150,000 with a decent commercial shopping area, old town, etc. The Luberon area to which you refer is a very rural area dotted with many small villages. Places like Goult, Bonneiux, Lourmarin, etc. are charming although I would not want to visit small villages as part of a large tour. But the area has certainly attracted us (when we stay in the region) and we have spent many wonderful days just driving around, trying different cafes, etc. For a port day I think it would be fine if you have a very small private tour with a driver/guide who knows the best places to visit. The alternative is to rent a car in Marseille (most of the rental car companies have places near the train station) and drive yourself...having done some pre-trip homework as to where you want to visit. DW and I really love hitting villages on their market days! Depending on the day of the week you are in Marseille, this will vary since the market days vary throughout the region. You can learn a lot about the French regional culture by simply browsing one of those weekly markets and checking out the food products, trinkets, etc. We have always suggested that folks planning on exploring the Luberon, first read some of Peter Mayle's wonderful books (A Year in Provence, Toujour Provence) although we do not suggest joining the hoards driving around trying to find his house (Peter Mayle fled Provence for Long Island, NY to escape the prying tourists and died in 2018). Even when Mayle returned to Provence he avoided the area of his original home. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, Provence is a large area and best visited as part of an extended land trip. We really enjoy renting apartments (usually for 1-2 weeks) in various parts of the region which gives us enough time to really soak up the atmosphere. We often hear that port days give folks a snapshot and in the Luberon (and Provence) it is a ridiculously short snapshot. Cruisers really need to decide what is most important to them and focus on only a few places/things. You cannot even begin to see it all on a short port visit. Hank

Completely agree. We have suggested that folks might want to take the tram (or the long walk)over to the Gugenheim and admire it from outside. One can also walk in the main doors and admire the main atrium (without buying an entrance ticket). We have found the art collection very disappointing although they do sometimes have some excellent special exhibitions. Hank

We stopped cruising on X, shortly after LLP took over the helm and started her campaign of a "death by a thousand cut-backs" coupled with big price increases (especially in suites). Since we have long cruised on many different lines this was an easy shift even though we sometimes cruise over 100 days a year. We found ourselves loving MSC's Yacht Club which is far less costly than X Retreat suites and offers a far higher quality of service without annoying add-ons. In the past 18 months we have cruised (6 cruises) on Seabourn for far less (price wise) than the lowest cost Retreat cabins on X. On Seabourn there is no such thing as room service fees (X is now going to $11.75 per order), no charges for the mini bar drinks (restocked daily) or just about anything else. On Seabourn we can cruise for weeks and have an onboard account of Zero! Even on MSC, with the exception of the usual auto tips we can also cruise for weeks without any additional charges. While X is a terrific cruise line, for those of us who happily cruise on multiple lines we still do not see X as cost competitive in terms of overall value. During our more than 50 years of cruising we have watched cruise lines go through many changes in pricing and fees. But in the final analysis a large cruise line (such as X) needs to fill their berths. An empty berth is "opportunity lost revenue" that can never be recovered. In the past this has led to interesting price strategies including special promotions and amazing last-minute deals (usually handled quietly through a few high-volume cruise agencies). We will watch the near future with lots of interest :). Consider that a new small ship luxury cruise line, Explora Journeys, is charging about $500- $600 per person/day for an all-inclusive luxury line. MSC charges about $500 per person day for their luxurious Yacht Club! Go figure. Hank

I sure get that :). Cruise line excursions are expensive (and usually overpriced) and when you multiply by 8 it becomes ridiculous. The least expensive beach day is to simply go to a free public beach. In the case of Puerto Vallarta there are a few options including walking to a beach south of the port (it is somewhat of a hike) ot perhaps just taking a public bus or taxi into town (3-4 miles). On the South Side of town you have the Romantic Zone/Old Town area where the beach is called Los Muertos Beach. The southern part of this beach (south of the pier) is swimable as long as the sea is behaving itself. There is also an area right around the pier that is popular with Mexicans (who come here on their vacations) where it is sometimes a bit calmer and appropriate for children. But the further south you walk, the nicer the sand and sea bottom (i.e. no rocks). You can simply put towels down on the sand and you have a free beach. If you want chairs/loungers, there are multiple bars/restaurants that will allow you to use their loungers. The cost is negotiable and sometimes they will let you use loungers for free as long as you commit to buying food/drink. With a party of 8 it certainly comes down to your negotiating skills. As to Stone Island, I can be of no help since my expertise is limited to only Puerto Vallarta (where we live for part of the year). Hank

I agree with Cruisemom that Athens (Pireus) is generally the most adventageous port (for the Greek Islands). On the other hand, the overwhelming majority of cruise ships go to similar ports (i.e. Rhodes, Crete, Corfu, , Santorini, Mykonos), It is estimated that there are far more than 1000 Greek Islands of which around 200 are inhabited. We think that some of the best islands are not visited by any cruise ship. So, getting back to the OP's question, one might want to consider island hopping via ferry! It is actually a lot of fun, gives one an opportunity to spend time on various islands never seen by a cruise ship, and one can have fun putting together their own itinerary. Even a popular island like Santorini, is a difference experience when one arrives by ferry (or plane) and spends a few days. Islands like Naxos, Paxos, and Hydra are wonderful places to visit but you will not ever do it if you only use cruise ships. Just tossing this out to CC folks to open some minds about the limitations we all face when using cruise ships. Hank

It was likely a plucked Turkey that had been run over a few times :). My "favorite" work of art is in the Gugenheim (Bilbao) and is simply a small pile of dust/dirt next to a normal dustpan. The first time we saw it we thought the janitor had simply gone on break :). Hank

"The early bird gets the tender." :). If the ship is using tender tickets, get yourself to the appropriate lounge a bit early so you get one of the early numbers. Also beware that many on HAL (and other lines) do have priority and not much you can do about it. On HAL those of us who are 4-5*, or in the big suites are going to have an advantage. And if you are on a longer exotic itinerary, you may find that a majority of the ship has priority. This used to happen to us on the Prinsendam when over 75% of the passengers were 4-5* Mariners. When most of the ship has priority, the reality is that nobody really has any priority :). Hank

We have been big fans of As You Wish or whatever each line calls their anytime dining schemes and have been doing it for many years on multiple lines. We tend to dine no earlier than 7:30, which avoids a lot of the congestion found on lines, like HAL, that attract an older crowd who thinks that having dinner at 5pm is too late :). We seldom make reservations (except on Princess) as we prefer to dine without a pre set schedule. When we are enjoying pre-dinner cocktails and meet new folks we like the ability to enjoy our newfound company and see little reason to run off because of a schedule. On most cruise lines (including HAL) we ask, at the MDR door, to share a large table. On HAL, this means dining before 8 since most HAL cruisers are not late diners (we think many are in bed long before the MDR closes). We will often invite others, we have met on the cruise, to join us for dinner which can be the basis of a large table. For us, dinner is often the big social event of the day and we often find ourselves at fantastic tables that are liable to close down the MDR. Two hour dinners are not unusual as many of our tables are a lot of fun and nobody is in a big rush (given the situation with entertainment on HAL...no reason to hurry from dinner). When we get tablemates that are not very social, we do our best to find discussion topics of common interest. One very nice advantage of As you wish is that you do not need to dine with the same folks again (or every night), but you also have the ability to dine with folks you like as often as you please. To us it is the best of both worlds. I should add that as avid international independent travelers, we have learned much from past tablemates that often governs future port days and even trips. And when folks ask us how we manage to find excellent discount cruise agencies (which usually save us 7-10% vs booking directly with a cruise line) our usual response is that we share travel/cruise agency info with others we meet over cocktails and at dinner. Hank Hank

Our particular cruise involves Japan. Although that country has removed their own testing requirements (as long as a person has at least 3 shots) they have imposed a caveat on the cruise lines that they must leave Japan if 10% onboard has COVID. This puts an additional burden on the cruise lines and, so far, HAL has reacted by requiring pre-embarkation testing. Hank