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Antartica!!!!!!!


pacmom

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Here goes!! We left Dayton, had a stop over in Atlanta and arrived safely in BA the following morning. The flight was crowded with people going with Princess to the antartic all 2300 of them. We used hotel points to stay at the Marriott and joined Silversea Monday am at the domestic airport. The rep was there before us. We were all too early for the check in desk to open. Check in quite smooth. Flight was very nice--all SS. We arrived in Ushusia to a lovely day and trip out to Terra del Fuego park for lunch--very Argentine--not to all tastes. Arrived at the ship, boarding very smooth. Cabins ready. We were in 404--very nice. More food awaited in the Panorama lounge. Dinner was very good--we all started to make new friends. There were 2 groups on board, one from Australia of about 12 and one from Brazil of about 16. The next two days in the Drake Passage were spent at mandatory lectures and boot fitting cleaning of non new things we would bring ashore. The meals were great--still have not found scrambled eggs on any ship buffet dry enough for me. No problem, the egg station cooked eggs to order. Uta the maitre'd was sooo good--very pleasant and easy to approach about special things like my husband's birthday.

Travel thru the Drake Passage was quite smooth so we made a landing on Wed afternoon on one of the Aitcho islands. It was the start of a magical time. So much fun getting into all the gear, rain pants, parkas, boots and life vests--special ones for zodiac riding. The crew was fantastic helping us in and out of the zodiacs. I was a bit terrified the first time out--think my knuckles stayed white til late in the evening. Devil's island and Brown Bluff tomorrow.

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Sorry no picture of Uta.

 

Jo, very few warts. The bigest being the person making the pizza definitely didn't learn from an Italian chef. It was not good. The only other was a wart for myDH--we were in 404 and at the end of cabin cleaning most days.

 

We woke to snow as we prepared to go to Devil Island. Stayed and walked about and then had a wonderful zodiac ride with Claudia. She was wonderful about explaining things in English not science. Some hardier souls made a trek and then back to ship. The hot chocolate was just right after being out in the weather. After lunch, we arrived at Brown Bluff--our first landing on the continent. Kristine, the videographer, took our picture for our first steps on our 7th continent. It was blowing so much that I didn't last long. At both stops we saw , yes, penguins. They are so noisey. The chicks look like wide bottomed bean bags with huge feet.

 

Two suggestions for those yet to go--take a jar of Vicks- rub under your nose and it will alleviate the "penguin poop" smell. The other is take 2 plastic bags large enough for your feet--place them over your socks . Gum boots will slide on easier. We all got to hating those ********boots. There are boot jacks to help get off the boots.

 

We are expecting a hefty storm here in Ohio tomorrow and Sat. Will try to finish the trip. Log on to the Silversea site and read the expedition blogs. Pat

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The snow was falling and blowing sideways, so opted to watch from the ship. We were very close to Whaler Bay--no problem seeing the buildings, etc. As the frozen ones arrived back, warm drinks as always were available. We settled to another wonderful lunch, great soups and pastas. The storm continued, so it was decided to cancel the afternoon outing and beat feet out of the caldera. Also cancelled this am was the antartic plunge. The tide was so high that they couldn't dig down far enough for the volcanic hot spring. We threaded our way out of the caldera and the seas calmed soon after.

 

Saw some spectacular icebergs, a few ice foows with penguins on them. Afternoon tea is lovely with snowy table linens and a choice of tead and wonderful pastries. This is served in the panorama lounge, a great place to read, knit, play cards or the daily game of scrabble. They make wonderful hoy chocolate and really good Irish coffee.

 

Our parkas got a workout yesterday here at home clearing the 10 plus inches from the driveway. Not as bad as the DC area, but anything over 2 inches is a bother. Looking out at the trees and schrubs is a treat--so beautiful covered and bowed down with the snow.

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Today--a beautiful, clear day. Must be because it was my husband's birthday. The four young Brits from the station came on board PA for a good breakfast, shower and newspaper read--delightful young women.

 

We were on one of the first zodiacs out. The museum was very nice--living conditions rather primative. Did a bit of shopping, mailed the postcards that I bought on board ship. Will have to report when they arrive here to Ohio. We then switched over to Jougla Island. We were so close to the penguins and the blue-eyed skags. Will, our ornithologist, led us on a walk of the island. The walk was ok til we got to the mud--a bit sucky, literally. So many times on all of our landings we had to wait for penguin crossings. It was sooo great. On Port Lockroy, I did a bit of knitting and had picture to prove it. Not only have I walked on all 7 continents, but I have knitted on all seven. Just a bit of trivia.

 

While at dinner that evening, my camera batteries died right when the whales appeared. DH went back to the cabin to get his. Walked in on his surprise. Happy Birthday balloons hanging from the ceiling. A towel 3 tier cake with lots of chocolated decorating it. Also a towel bulldog holding a happy birthday sign and wearing my sunglasses. He came back and after dinner gave tours of the cabin to our table mates. His birthday cake was a delicious cheese cake--not NYC style, but really good.

 

We fell asleep after lunch and missed the zodiac ride thru the iceberg graveyard--bummer.

 

More tomorrow. Pat

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That's a shame about canceling the Polar Plunge... :( Considering how much of a shock the 32 degree water is, I'm surprised that no one needed the AED...

 

I had fun swimming (for a very brief time!), and it made the hot chocolate taste that much better when we got back to the ship! Hopefully we'll have a similar chance up north in 2011 when we're back on PA II - although if I do that, would I be considered bipolar? :eek:

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Oh, and the postcards will take a while; the actual time depends on when the next mail ship stops there. We were in Port Lockroy on 12/16, and we were told that our cards would be faster than average, because the Fram was scheduled to dock there the next day, and the Fram is their mailship.

 

Our postcards arrived in New York on 1/21 - 5 weeks later. Not too bad; I wish it had taken us that long to arrive back home...

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JP,

 

I enjoyed reading your review and looking at your photos. Everyone's comments here only increase the excitement of looking forward to our own journey.

 

BTW, are the poles provided for your use by the ship?

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jp, definitely think with your wicked sense of humor that you could be a bipolar swimmer.

 

basedow, there were a few walking sticks available. Ours were collapsible, so took up very little room in the cases. Glad you're enjoying the review. Pat

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Yes Pat, I am reading everything you write with great interest. I also have an interest in what you have to say about ease of walking on the ice there. I have been reassured that getting in and out of the Zodiacs are not too big a deal.

 

Thanks for doing the commentary!

 

Carolyn

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We just got back from our terrific trip to Antarctica and for those of you going - well it is as stated above. We had great weather and crossed the Antarctic Circle (1st time for the PAII we were told) since the weather was so good - blue skies - icebergs, whales, penguins, seals, great staff, food and oh yes the Drake - (I got seasick both ways and still worth it - now I don't have to go on my post cruise diet there are pluses to everything - hey you have to maintain your sense of humor.) We brought way too many clothes as per usual. The ship provides the boots, jacket, walking sticks, back packs. The boot liners we bought from LL Bean that went into the boots worked great - better we think than the plastic bags - since they won't let your feet breath. Take the liners for socks and gloves and dress in layers - we were down to our one fleece layer since the sun was out and it was so 'warm'. We had no wind and that makes all the difference we found. On windy days you needed to layer more. Don't forget sunscreen and a hat with a brim - the one on the web site is a good one to get and was fine when it wasn't too cold out. Also some other essentials - hat clips - holder for your glasses - one woman lost hers on one of the zodiac tours and you can't dive in and get them. Bring sunglasses as well they are very important to protect your eyes - the expedition crew wore them even when it was cloudy out. We brought the Vicks but didn't need to use it as much as we thought - we got accustomed to the smell I guess. We had a fabulous time the staff were excellent and our only complaint is that we had to get off the ship and now someone else is in our room!

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tupper10,

Am so jealous that I'm turning green with envy--getting to cross the Antartic circle--WOW!!!!! Vernatsky was as far south as we got. Sorry to hear mal de mer got to you. I think that those who survive the Drake deserve a medal or extra days to compensate. Pat

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Carolyn, There really wasn't any walking on ice--it was the rocks that were difficult. Don't know what I would have done without my walking stick.

 

Almirante Brown and Culverville---enjoyed a wonderful zodiac ride before landing. Again the remarkable Antartic. Skipped the afternoon--just needed a break.

 

Peterman Is. and Vernadsky. The terrain on Peterman did not look like something I wanted to try. Th eafternoon on Vernadsky was interesting--too a nonscientist just to see how they live was very interesting. Upon landing there was a wounded crabeater seal. Our naturalists said it was bitten by either an orca or more probably a leopard seal. The seal rested and then went back out to sea. The zodiac ride afterwards was fantastic. The icebergs carved by wind and water. The color of the water surrounding them. We came across a berg with more than 15 crabeater seals, resting. There must have been something prowling the waters. At that point DH said all we need now is a whale. With that radio chatter started Whales off the port side of ship. Moms and calves just cavorting.

 

Yankee Harvbor and Half Moon. Didn't happen. Captain trying to avoid a storm. Instead we went for a zodiac ride around the Melchior Islands-- saw my last penguin, no whales, but 2 fur seals--beautiful color to them. Back to ship--landing very rough. 2 men fell backwards trying to get onto the landing platform. Those sailors are just wonderful. This was the END of smooth sailing. Put on my patch and walked carefully about the ship. Our sailing companions were dropping like flies. Even Robin, the expedition leader was a bit under the weather at recap. We have bid fairwell to that fscinating part of the world. Tomorrow--impressions of the trip in regards to ship and passengers. Pat:)

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Hi, Pat!

 

Enjoyed meeting you and Terry on board. Glad to see from your postings that you enjoyed the trip as much as we did, and hope you had safe travels back to OH.

 

For those of you about to go, one item I wish I had brought along was a ski mask. It would have been very handy for those days when it was 25 degrees and blowing snow. And for those who are considering Ship to Shore for their clothing, we had a fantastic experience with them. They were very helpful and efficient, the clothes (we got the "get outfitted" package) were exactly what we needed and worked perfectly, and they will send the clothes directly to the ship, so you don't have to bother packing them. They were waiting for us in the stateroom when we arrived (which happened to be right next door to pacmom!).

 

Our party made every single landing and zodiac tour (didn't want to miss a thing!). I ended up taking somwhere around 1200 pictures! Penguins, seals, whales, iceburgs, glaciers, mountains, and a FANTASTIC sunset in Lemaire Channel. It is truly a spectacular experience.

 

We'll definitely do the Antarctic again with Silversea. Considering doing the Arctic with them as well. If anyone is considering the trip, do it. Completely lived up to all my expectations.

 

Paul

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@basedow - We brought our own walking sticks as well; we too have the collapsible ones. They fit easily in a 26" standard size suitcase, but not in a carry-on sized suitcase.

 

We got ours from Sierra Trading Post - they often go on sale for about $30 a pair. We've had one of the pairs for probably 10 years and they've really traveled a lot with us - everywhere from Iceland/Greenland to the Antarctic.

 

@tupper10 - fantastic that you got to cross the circle! I think that makes you a member of the "Order of the Red Noses" - congrats! We got within 100 miles at Petermann Island. So I guess we are just coldnoses.

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Now I have shoveled out my car three times in the last 10 days. Who knew I'd get so much use out of my Silversea jacket!!!!!!! I woke to snow yesterday and it was deje vu this am.

 

Thoughts on weather. Blue skies, snow rain sleet and the ever fun Drake on the way home. Never saw so many green people now that StarGate is finished.

 

Passengers: this was such a neat mix of backgrounds. Folks from Australia, Tasmania, South Africe, Tunisia, Japan,Brazil, Germany, Italy, Belgium, the UK, St. Maarten, and the US. Conversations were wonderful--learned a lot about Tunisian history. About 90% of us were there solely for the expedition--a few because it was a Silversea itinerary they had not done.

 

Crew--really wanted to take a few home with me. The attention to detail was great. They knew how you liked things by the second day.

 

Expedition staff--all I can say is WOW!!!! So infornative, so attuned to your safety and so knowledgeable in more than their own speciality. The lectures on board were very good--just long enough to hold your interest. Didn't hurt that your favorite drink would be served during the lectures. They are also shown live on the TV in your cabin--then you have tocall roomservice for the drink. The shackleton lectures were very interesting--well done David. Still can't understand why any woman would agree to get married on Antartica. She must love David an awful lot.

 

Food. This is a very subjective area. Breakfast buffet was overwhelming. There was something for every taste. Omelets great. The french toast from the menu was superb. My husband's birthday cake was very good, as was another that I tasted. Only complaint about the lunch buffet was way too much food. Could have had soup and sandwich. They served a wonderful tuna salad one day---many of us made tuna sandwiches. One man said he could't go to dineer one night because he had gotten lost in the buffet at lunch. Dinners were very good--steaks and chicken breasts from the "always" menu were very good.

As said in an early post--chef just didn't get pizza--must have missed that dough making class.

 

The expedition as a whole was magnificent--from charter flight to charter flight and all in between. Safety of the passengers was paramount. This trip was not a vacation type cruise, but an expedition with great comfort when back onboard. Will never forget the marvelous zodiac rides. Glad to try to answer any questions. If I can't, someone else probably can. Safe travels!!!! Pat;)

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I am so enjoying reading your reports. Can't wait for our trip next year.

 

We have ski goggles and collapsible hiking poles, so I will be sure to take those.

 

One question: did anyone notice whether they have large sizes of men's boots? My husband wears a 13--that is a lot of space if he has to bring his own.

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