Question re Cruising "by" or "to" Antarctica

[nocl]

27 minutes ago, foodsvcmgr said:

New year, new thread, same endless debate as to why four major large ship cruise lines continue to advertise drive bys that are allegedly prohibited.

I’m booked for ‘23 on the Celebrity itinerary referenced so very curious.

While most of this season’s sailings have been cancelled, at this moment Norwegian Star is headed for Buenos Aires to hopefully start a series of Antarctica cruises.

So within the next few weeks we may be able to get some first hand reports of where exactly these drive bys are actually sailing to.

Except unlike the descriptions on the HAL and Celebrity sailings, NCL states Elephant Island and Admiralty Bay.  Both of those are in the South Shetland Islands, with the closest being about 150 miles north of the Peninsula.

 

 

[KirkNC]

4 hours ago, nocl said:

You might check out Hurtigruten.  They are probably the most economical of the lines that land in Antarctica. They are on 500 passenger ships, so a bit larger than most of the expedition ships, but still small enough to do landings.

 

I keep trying to talk my wife into doing an Ice Breaker in the Ross sea, out of New Zealand, so we can go back into the area where I spent time during my college days, but have not been able to talk her into it yet.

We have cruised on Hurtengruten twice with two more scheduled, a northwest passage and an Antarctica/South Georgia cruise.  They are very efficient and the food and speakers were quite good.

Edited January 5, 2022 by KirkNC

[john2003]

I just posted some thoughts re the Polar Code on the Antarctica thread as this isn't a cruise line specific topic. Will be interesting to see what response I get.

[zgscl]

On 1/4/2022 at 6:48 AM, chengkp75 said:

Arctic/Antarctic cruising will be very different starting this year, as the "drop dead" dates for nearly every cruise ship to operate in these waters have expired.  As stated above, the changes are due to IMO regulations for safety for passenger vessels operating in Arctic waters, far from emergency infrastructure.  For the most part, only those vessels specifically designed to meet the new requirements (basically specially built after 2013) can operate above or below 60* north/south.

 

I am surprised that existing ships are still planning on visiting the South Shetlands, as these are between 61-63* S.  I believe they are operating under conditional approval for areas where there has "historically been no ice at the time of year", but I'm surprised they are trying for the islands in December, since the waters around them are ice bound until early December.  They may be required to cancel the port stops if there is any ice still around at the time of your cruise.

 

Anything that approaches the Antarctic Peninsula will have to be a specially built expedition ship, due to the prevalence of ice there during the "summer" months.

Thank you for sharing this, it helps explain quite a bit. Wondering if this will impact Alaska sailings also, I believe both Whittier & Seward are above the 60th and it seems that large ship sailings to Anchorage would be ruled out as well. 

[chengkp75]

2 hours ago, zgscl said:

Thank you for sharing this, it helps explain quite a bit. Wondering if this will impact Alaska sailings also, I believe both Whittier & Seward are above the 60th and it seems that large ship sailings to Anchorage would be ruled out as well. 

Well, both are between 60* and 61* North (less than 50 miles north of 60*), but since they are only called at in summer, and there is historically no ice there in summer, I believe they can get a provisional certificate.

[zgscl]

3 hours ago, chengkp75 said:

Well, both are between 60* and 61* North (less than 50 miles north of 60*), but since they are only called at in summer, and there is historically no ice there in summer, I believe they can get a provisional certificate.

Thanks, always appreciate your insights!

[cccole]

SOOOOOOO many things to think about.  After reading the above posts I have been looking at the "expedition" or small ship cruises.  One that stands out to me is Ponant.

 

 After OleSalts post re clothing and weather I have kept that in mind when looking at ships that include zodiac type excursions.  I would never purchase a "survival" suit because I never intend to live where it gets colder than southern California.  I've been there, done that.  I only go west for long term housing.

 

John2003's thread was good.  I think that chengkp75 confirmed that if cruising in the summer, when there has historically been little ice, the current itineraries may work and ships will be able to get provisional certificates.  Hopefully I understood this correctly.

 

Also drowelf presented a whole different itinerary.   Beginning from New Zealand.  I would so much rather start in New Zealand than Buenos Aires but cruises are really limited.

 

I will continue to research options but tomorrow is my deadline for making a "refundable" deposit on the Oosterdam cruise.  Anytime prior to the September 21 final payment I can cancel with full refund.  I thought this would be easy but it really is not and I know all experiences will be great.  Thank you for all for the fabulous information.  Cherie  

 

 

[rkacruiser]

10 minutes ago, cccole said:

After OleSalts post re clothing and weather I have kept that in mind when looking at ships that include zodiac type excursions

 

For what my opinion is worth, I purchased articles of clothing and "stuff" for a Christmas visit to my Nephew in Alaska and other items for my Zaandam Antarctica cruise.  For Alaska, with -16 degrees and wind chill on Christmas Day, what I purchased was needed.  And, I was still cold.  (I have used the parka once or twice since.  It's too bulky to be used as a regular Winter coat for where I live.)    What I purchased for the Zaandam cruise, nothing more than my normal Winter outerwear was needed.  

[cccole]

Thank you rkacruiser, I appreciate your opinion.  I think that is what OlsSalt was conveying...the difference in clothing needed between being on a large cruise ship and an expedition landing craft.  I think if I need other than what you had for your Zaandam cruise I would rent.   Thank you,  Cherie  

[nocl]

40 minutes ago, cccole said:

SOOOOOOO many things to think about.  After reading the above posts I have been looking at the "expedition" or small ship cruises.  One that stands out to me is Ponant.

 

 After OleSalts post re clothing and weather I have kept that in mind when looking at ships that include zodiac type excursions.  I would never purchase a "survival" suit because I never intend to live where it gets colder than southern California.  I've been there, done that.  I only go west for long term housing.

 

John2003's thread was good.  I think that chengkp75 confirmed that if cruising in the summer, when there has historically been little ice, the current itineraries may work and ships will be able to get provisional certificates.  Hopefully I understood this correctly.

 

Also drowelf presented a whole different itinerary.   Beginning from New Zealand.  I would so much rather start in New Zealand than Buenos Aires but cruises are really limited.

 

I will continue to research options but tomorrow is my deadline for making a "refundable" deposit on the Oosterdam cruise.  Anytime prior to the September 21 final payment I can cancel with full refund.  I thought this would be easy but it really is not and I know all experiences will be great.  Thank you for all for the fabulous information.  Cherie  

 

 

Clothing is not as bad as you think.  You certainly want to wear boots if you go on land and waterproof pants for two reasons.  Landing in a zodiac may not be entirely dry and you do not wat to get your feet wet.  But even more than that is if you go ashore at a penguin rookery, droppings can be a bit of a mess and you want boots and pants that are easily cleanable.

 

In general good warm (wool or equivalent) socks, an inner layer, think thermal underwear, a warm middle layer (sweater or wool shirt, and warm pants, and a windproof outer layer (maybe with hood)  along with waterproof pants along with  good pair of gloves and a good balaclava or warm hat

 

In Mcmurdo the outer layer is a heavier parka, but temps are a fair bit colder there.

Edited January 7, 2022 by nocl

[cccole]

nocl - I apologize.  You are the person that awakened me to a cruise to Antarctica from New Zealand.  I'm not giving up on that but there are few options.  I love, love, love a zodiac, but have only landed in warm waters not arctic waters.  Boots will be a priority if we get to do a close up adventure.  I am not a hat wearer, but a very warm hat will be packed whether on a large or small ship.  I chose the last two aft staterooms available on the Oosterdam because we intend to be out ALL of the time.  I may even take my bedding to one of the loungers...ha, ha!  Thank you for your posts,  Cherie

[OlsSalt]

EXPEDITION CRUISE GEAR: When we were planning our expedition cruise for this March 2022,  I found good options for the necessary recommended clothing on eBay if you don't have problems getting used gear.

 

Helly Hansen water proof pants was the ships preferred brand, though their recommended high top Bogg boots did not come much cheaper online, plus it was hard to know what size one really needed - with or without heavy socks.  Then there was that special tread requirement for South Georgia on this particular cruise - so i left it to them to get me kitted out with boots. 

 

Agree, when living in Southern California there is little need for any of these items after the cruise - which is why I finally decide to rent their boots which were about $90 for the cruise on this particular line. And patch together the other items myself,  which were lighter and more packable.

 

For the Zodiacs, they wanted us waterproofed up to at least  mid thighs when getting on and off the zodiacs -which  may require shallow water landings. As well as legs needing to be pretty waterproof, when splashing around in the zodiac itself.  They provided the outer parkas. 

 

But with everything up in the air we decided (sadly) to cancel our own planned 21 day expedition trip for March 2022 - too many ports were closing down, on and off everything, and too much money was at stake to maybe only get half of the cruise, since it was dicey at best due to regular weather and ocean conditions that cannot guarantee landings regardless of the covid wildcard. 

 

Also one needs to include the covid unknowns in the arrival and departure cities unique to each cruise itinerary -which for us would have been Santiago, Chile for that cruise and with a Cape Town South Africa departure.  They keep closing and opening, and don't know what their status is today.

 

(This was a transatlantic Chile- Falkands- South Georgia - Tristan da Cuhna -CapeTown expedition cruise; not strictly an "Antarctic" one, but it was a zodiac expedition cruise. So we were running into multiple country requirements - not just one or two.)

 

 

[OlsSalt]

Cold weather gear: Not a hat wearer either, but love ear muffs which are often good enough for me. I have one rain coat for travel and it always has two "Ear Pops" and a set of glove in the pockets for any and all occasions.

 

 A parka hood with ear muffs gave me all the protection I needed, when I needed to bundle things up. Again, the surprise was it was not as cold as I had anticipated, but when the wind comes up, you do want everything ready to go.   I use a long Uniqlo puffer coat, which was plenty for me on the "drive-by" cruise when out on deck. 

 

But do bring a "tennis visor" type thing so your parka hood does not droop down over your eyes - something like those "No More Headaches" visor brims.

[cccole]

OlsSalt, Ear muffs and puffer coat are a great suggestions.  And, I have no problem with used gear.  If I rent it I would also be wearing used gear.  I don't think I have ever worn a "tennis visor" but never say never! Using it to keep a hood out of my eyes is brilliant!  Chile to Cape Town...a dream trip for me.  Another option.  Last year we traveled to many countries, including countries in Africa.  The requirements are exhausting but the travel is so worth it. Thank you, Cherie

[cccole]

We did not do the December 2022 HAL cruise and after reading all of the posts we decided to book a smaller ship, Viking Octantis in February 2023. I think the ship has @350 passengers.  I'm not getting any younger and really want to experience Antarctica as close as possible.  We will also be cruising to South Georgia Island and the Falklands.  I know that we will not have a landing every day, but I am also happy in a zodiac, kayak, or expedition craft getting up close and personal with all that is Antartica.    For those who recommended Hurtigruten, we seriously considered this line also.  Fortunately Viking provides us with outer wear so no need to worry about boots and jackets.  Thank you all for the responses which encouraged me to look at smaller ships.  Cherie   

[tupper10]

38 minutes ago, cccole said:

We did not do the December 2022 HAL cruise and after reading all of the posts we decided to book a smaller ship, Viking Octantis in February 2023. I think the ship has @350 passengers.  I'm not getting any younger and really want to experience Antarctica as close as possible.  We will also be cruising to South Georgia Island and the Falklands.  I know that we will not have a landing every day, but I am also happy in a zodiac, kayak, or expedition craft getting up close and personal with all that is Antartica.    For those who recommended Hurtigruten, we seriously considered this line also.  Fortunately Viking provides us with outer wear so no need to worry about boots and jackets.  Thank you all for the responses which encouraged me to look at smaller ships.  Cherie   

You will love it - we did the expedition with Silverseas and still have our jackets. We did not need to buy boots as they were also provided. Almost all of the expedition cruises provide jackets that are red in color and you must wear them when you do the zodiac landings. I assumed this is so the crew knows where everyone is who goes ashore.  

[cccole]

Thank you tupper10,  We just need to have room in our luggage to bring the jackets home.  Can't wait for the adventure. Cherie

[OlsSalt]

Atlas Cruise Line Explora is a new addition to the Antarctic cruise options - I think they are smaller expedition ships for MSC, and are priced much lower, but for a shorter cruise. One must get to Ushuaia on their own.

 

(My recollection is very fuzzy about the details now, butdo remember the name Explora because it was so new to me having been back and forth on this very question myself .)

 

PS: Just started the new book 'Under the Ice" - the search for Shackleton's Endurance that was finally found a short while ago. Pristine and surprisingly intact for what happened to it.

 

On the chapter that discusses how the original abandoned party used penguins as critical food sources during their long ordeal - King penguins were meatier, than the little Adelie and easier to catch. Who knew? Some times you gotta do what you gotta do and the Shackleton-Enduraance survival story remains one of the grand human adventure stories of all time.

Edited March 15, 2023 by OlsSalt

[cccole]

Thank you OlsSalt, I have a friend on an Atlas ship now in Antarctica.  I looked at Atlas but it seems a bit more expensive than Viking.  I refer to your recommendations re packing. etc. and really appreciate your posts.  I may bring extra ear muffs and tennis visors for passengers less informed!!!!!  Cherie

Edited March 15, 2023 by cccole

[tupper10]

We brought fleece hats with a visor and a must is long underwear, silks are best.   Also you must have sun glasses and some people wore good ski googles since the sun reflecting on the ice is very bright.  My husband bought the gloves you wear to take pictures that you can pull down a part of them to hold the camera.  For our excursions - We wore silk as a base for our gloves and them mittens/gloves as the warm layer.  I wore my long underwear and my old ski bibs for pants, then long underwear, a turtle neck, a fleece and neck warmer (not a scarf it gets in the way), the jacket I was given and my visor hat with sun glasses with a strap so if they fell it was just to my chest. For socks get a pair of silk socks and then fleece or wool - you want things that dry quickly.  It is not the cold that is the issue it is the wind.   Our ship provided us with hiking sticks but if Viking doesn't I would recommend you bring a pair - they are a great help on the hikes you do when you land.  On the ship the dress was casual - essentially no one dressed up at all and just pants and a sweater were fine.  We all brought our jackets, hats, gloves etc to meals since the captain would tell us to run outside to see - you name it so we had to be prepared.  It was the most fabulous cruise we have ever taken and that is despite the fact that I spent some 'quality time' in our room crossing the Drake, especially on the way back.  

 

So glad you decided to do this cruise - it will be the trip of a lifetime and I hope you have spectacular weather - we had such good weather we went the furthest south of any ship that season and none of the crew had ever crossed the Antarctic circle until we did.  

[asebastian]

Cherie, below is a track of the Zaandam on our 2019 cruise to South America and Antarctica. The yellow line shows the track of the ship over 4 days, you can see how close to the shore it is, in places. All of these are around the Palmer Peninsula in Antarctica.

[asebastian]

Here in this photo you can see the closeness of the shoreline

 

[asebastian]

Another one

 

[cccole]

Thank you for the fun and informative posts and photos.  This is a great time of year to get cold weather clothing at a good price, I've made a list of things we will need.  I think I will get "Under the Ice" for my husband for Father's Day.

 

Fleece hats with a visor would be great, I'll search for them.  Bringing layers seems to be the name of the game.  I love silk long underwear but haven't had any for a long time.  And I don't think I've ever had silk socks.  Bringing warm things to meals is really a great idea, so you're always ready.

 

I think that packing a flexible outlook will also be important because the weather seems to dictate what we will and will not be able to do.  Seeing Antarctica and the wildlife will be just amazing.  Having light for 22 hours a day will also provide lots of viewing opportunities.  Thank you for the encouragement and much appreciated information.  Cherie 

 

p.s.  We are booked for February 2024.  Where has time gone!!!!

Edited March 15, 2023 by cccole