Don't be afraid to try things on your own!

[GSPLover]

Thank you GSPLover, I was afraid of that. I am hoping we will be one of the first ones off the ship, but one can never tell, as ship's tour participants will disembark first, and my guess is that most will take ship's tours in order to maximize both what can be seen/done with the small amount of time. Thanks for your help anyway, I never thought of taking the express train and doubling back.

 

Jacquie

 

It has been our experience that if you get to the disembarkation point 15-30 minutes ahead of time that you can beat the tour groups. Doesn't always work but worth a shot.

[Hlitner]

Hi Hank. your contributions are fantastic! Especially your comments on Ephesus.

We are doing a 12 day on the Princess Ruby Aug 8. In your opinion what are the best beaches at Mykonos, Olympia, and Corfu?

 

Regards, Kathy

 

On Mykonos we have gone to Paradise Beach which is very popular and very crowded. This beach has lots of facilites including a swimming pool (never understood why folks use a pool at the beach), restaurants and rental chairs/umbrellas. You can get to this beach by taking the local bus that leaves from the bus station located on the Windmill side of town (opposite side from where the ships dock). There are plenty of other less crowded beaches on the island but we have not personally visited those places.

 

As to Katakolon (Olympia) you have a few choices. There is a Katakolon Beach in the village, but it is not very nice. About 2 miles away there is Agios Andreas which is part sand and part pebbles, but it is pretty popular and it has some facilities. Further away some of the beaches get nicer such as Leventochori (perhaps 12 miles) and Kourouta (a bit further but this one is nice and sandy). For Agios Andreas you can take a taxi (probably about 10 Euros). For the others, you would be smart to just rent a car (I can post info on a local rental car company if you are interested).

 

As to Corfu, there are many different beaches scattered around the island (both North and South of the Korfu Town) but they are all quite a few miles from town. I think the best way to get to beaches is to rent a car. We were just in Corfu in late April, and we drove around the Northern end of the island for hours...but it was much too cold for swimming. Keep in mind that most European beaches are not as nice as the major beaches in the USA.

 

 

Hank

[travelite]

Hi Hank

 

I have some follow up questions for you:

 

We tender in Villefranche - how do we get to EZE - do you have the specific info for the bus? I would like to go there first and then back to Nice before heading back to the ship.

 

I have been reading alot about transportation (Train) and am still not sure what is right for us - I am going to ask and if you have the info great?

 

we need to get from FCO airport to Florence (it seems like we have to take train to Rome and then Florence) and i think 2nd class is fine but should we do the high speed, etc?

 

Then we need to get from Florence to Civatecchia also i think by way of Rome? I think also with our luggage we would need a taxi to the port or are there shuttles?

 

Then from Civitecchia to Rome after the cruise?

 

We will be in Rome for 4 1/2 days - should we get a roma pass or something else. We plan to walk as much as possible and take public transport then it is better to see the major sights. i have never been to Rome.

 

I would like to go to Pompei, what do you recommend, the train? any details would be great.

 

What is the best way to see the Vatican?

 

Thanks for all your help,it is much appreciated.

 

Lisa

 

Lisa, From Villefranche you can go to Eze by way of Nice. Take the train or bus (I believe it is bus #100) to Nice. Bus 100 runs about every 20 min. and goes to Monaco also, but not to Eze Village. In Nice (Coach Station) you will change to the 112 bus that goes to EZE and then on to Beausoleil (Monaco). The 112 bus will take you right into the center of Eze. This bus does not run frequently so timing is important. This is the Monday to Saturday schedule I have for Bus112:

arrives arrives Monte Carlo

Nice, Coach Station- 7h20 Eze Village - 7h40 - 8h00

9h00 9h20 9h40

10h40 11h00 11h20

12h30 12h50 13h15

14h15 14h35 15h10

16h10 16h30 17h00

18h15 18h35 18h55

 

departs

Monte Carlo

(la Cremaillere)

8h00 Eze Village(to Nice) 8h15 Nice- 8h40

9h45 10h00 10h20

11h25 11h40 12h05

13h20 13h35 14h00

15h15 15h30 16h00

17h05 17h20 18h00

19h00 19h15 19h40

 

I have included the schedule for the full 112 route if you decide to go to Monaco. I suggest going to Eze as early as possible, then spending the remaining time in Nice.

 

There are about 3 trains per hour from Rome to Civitavecchia. It takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. Be prepared for two full flights of stairs at the Civitavecchia train station. There is no elevator and you will have to carry your luggage. Turn left out of the train station and cross the street toward the port. You will see the free cruise shuttle stop about 2 blocks to the left. A taxi from Rome to Civitavecchia is about 130 euors. You could post on your ship's roll call to see if there are others looking to share a taxi. If you are capable of handling your own luggage, don't mind bus or metro to train from hotel (with luggage) in Rome, and stairs plus 2 blocks walking in Civitavecchia, you'll be fine with the train. The train is about 5.5 euros each. A shared taxi (look for a company on the internet) will be about 25 euros each with 6 people.

 

Rome: An all day ticket combo ticket for bus, tram, metro is 4 euros. Buy it at newstands, green machines and Metro stations. A single ticket is 1 euro and valid for 75 minutes. The electric bus lines #117 & 119 go through central Rome. Bus and trams are slow. The metro is limited, but quick. I do not care for the Hop-on-Hop-off buses. They are more expensive and you have to follow there circle to get around. It takes too long getting anywhere and the lines at the stops can be extremely long. The narration can be helpful if you can hear it. There is a public bus that does a circle route. You can get it right outside of the train station. I forgot the number, but it is listed in most of the guide books. I often take a taxi in the morning to my first destination for the day and then work my way back using bus, tram, or metro. Sometimes I take a taxi between locations to save time or if I'm tired. You won't enjoy yourself if you're tired or your feet are sore.

You can try to get tickets for a self-guided Vatican Tour (Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel) directly from the Vatican. You need to do it well ahead of time. It doesn't seem to be a perfect system so you may need to try more than once. You can only request a tour by FAX -- FAX # 011-39-06-6988-5100. They respond by FAX only so be sure to give a FAX number. Your request must include your name, # of tickets requested, date and time of tour (tours in English: 10:30 a.m.; 12 noon; 2 p.m.). When you arrive for your tour, go to the EXIT door and pay 21.5 euros each ticket. There are also tour companies on the internet that offer Vatican tours. This is one place pre-booking a tour or guide will add to your experience and save lots of time....well worth the extra money and researching a tour or guide.

To avoid a long line for tickets at the Colosseum, you can buy your tickets about 500 yards on the left side before the Arch of Constantine. There is an entrance with a ticket booth for Palatine Hill and the Forum. With a compass, the ticket booth is south west of the Colosseum.....on the left side as you face the Arch. It is a combo ticket and will cost a dollar or so more, but it is well worth waiting in line.

 

It is better to go to Pompeii from Naples. You could go to Ostia Antica from Rome by train. If you have never been to Rome, spend the four days immersing yourself and absorbing its glory....take time to slow down and enjoy.

 

Remember - Do it on your own shouldn't just focus on saving money. You should truly enjoy the freedom of exploring on your own, going off the beaten path, setting your own pace, and making your own choices. Often you save money doing it on your own; sometimes you don't. The idea is to make the best choice to bring you the greatest reward. Enjoy!

Edited June 20, 2009 by travelite
print order is jumbled

[travelite]

Lisa, From Villefranche you can go to Eze by way of Nice. Take the train or bus (I believe it is bus #100) to Nice. Bus 100 runs about every 20 min. and goes to Monaco also, but not to Eze Village. In Nice (Coach Station) you will change to the 112 bus that goes to EZE and then on to Beausoleil (Monaco). The 112 bus will take you right into the center of Eze. This bus does not run frequently so timing is important. This is the Monday to Saturday schedule I have for Bus112:

arrives arrives Monte Carlo

Nice, Coach Station- 7h20 Eze Village - 7h40 - 8h00

9h00 9h20 9h40

10h40 11h00 11h20

12h30 12h50 13h15

14h15 14h35 15h10

16h10 16h30 17h00

18h15 18h35 18h55

 

departs

Monte Carlo

(la Cremaillere)

8h00 Eze Village(to Nice) 8h15 Nice- 8h40

9h45 10h00 10h20

11h25 11h40 12h05

13h20 13h35 14h00

15h15 15h30 16h00

17h05 17h20 18h00

19h00 19h15 19h40

 

I have included the schedule for the full 112 route if you decide to go to Monaco. I suggest going to Eze as early as possible, then spending the remaining time in Nice.

 

There are about 3 trains per hour from Rome to Civitavecchia. It takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. Be prepared for two full flights of stairs at the Civitavecchia train station. There is no elevator and you will have to carry your luggage. Turn left out of the train station and cross the street toward the port. You will see the free cruise shuttle stop about 2 blocks to the left. A taxi from Rome to Civitavecchia is about 130 euors. You could post on your ship's roll call to see if there are others looking to share a taxi. If you are capable of handling your own luggage, don't mind bus or metro to train from hotel (with luggage) in Rome, and stairs plus 2 blocks walking in Civitavecchia, you'll be fine with the train. The train is about 5.5 euros each. A shared taxi (look for a company on the internet) will be about 25 euros each with 6 people.

 

Rome: An all day ticket combo ticket for bus, tram, metro is 4 euros. Buy it at newstands, green machines and Metro stations. A single ticket is 1 euro and valid for 75 minutes. The electric bus lines #117 & 119 go through central Rome. Bus and trams are slow. The metro is limited, but quick. I do not care for the Hop-on-Hop-off buses. They are more expensive and you have to follow there circle to get around. It takes too long getting anywhere and the lines at the stops can be extremely long. The narration can be helpful if you can hear it. There is a public bus that does a circle route. You can get it right outside of the train station. I forgot the number, but it is listed in most of the guide books. I often take a taxi in the morning to my first destination for the day and then work my way back using bus, tram, or metro. Sometimes I take a taxi between locations to save time or if I'm tired. You won't enjoy yourself if you're tired or your feet are sore.

You can try to get tickets for a self-guided Vatican Tour (Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel) directly from the Vatican. You need to do it well ahead of time. It doesn't seem to be a perfect system so you may need to try more than once. You can only request a tour by FAX -- FAX # 011-39-06-6988-5100. They respond by FAX only so be sure to give a FAX number. Your request must include your name, # of tickets requested, date and time of tour (tours in English: 10:30 a.m.; 12 noon; 2 p.m.). When you arrive for your tour, go to the EXIT door and pay 21.5 euros each ticket. There are also tour companies on the internet that offer Vatican tours. This is one place pre-booking a tour or guide will add to your experience and save lots of time....well worth the extra money and researching a tour or guide.

To avoid a long line for tickets at the Colosseum, you can buy your tickets about 500 yards on the left side before the Arch of Constantine. There is an entrance with a ticket booth for Palatine Hill and the Forum. With a compass, the ticket booth is south west of the Colosseum.....on the left side as you face the Arch. It is a combo ticket and will cost a dollar or so more, but it is well worth waiting in line.

 

It is better to go to Pompeii from Naples. You could go to Ostia Antica from Rome by train. If you have never been to Rome, spend the four days immersing yourself and absorbing its glory....take time to slow down and enjoy.

 

Remember - Do it on your own shouldn't just focus on saving money. You should truly enjoy the freedom of exploring on your own, going off the beaten path, setting your own pace, and making your own choices. Often you save money doing it on your own; sometimes you don't. The idea is to make the best choice to bring you the greatest reward. Enjoy!

 

I have tired to edit the 112 bus schedule several times. It jumbles the time figures each time I submit the reply. Hopefully you can figure it out going in time sequence from one destination to the next.

[Hlitner]

I want to add something to the prior post that talks about going to Eze via Nice. That bus line #112 actually runs along the middle corniche road between Nice and Monte Carlo and Eze is one of the stops (its right on that road). However, from Villefranche you can also catch the train (in the direction of Monte Carlo) and get off at the Eze/Bord sur Mer station (this is on the coast below the village of Eze). From that station there is a shuttle bus that runs between the station and Eze. The downside is that the shuttle bus does not always coordinate with the train schedule...although there is always the option of getting a taxi for the ride up to the village (you can have the cafe across the road call a taxi). Of course there is our personal favorite option of simply renting a car which gives us total flexibility and avoids the lost time waiting for buses and trains. Generally when we have a car we head immediately for our favorite place in the region which is St Paul de Vence.

 

Hank

[dianefish]

I agree with you about doing as much as you can on your own. We will be on the Solstice in July. Rome, Santorini and Mykonos will be on our own thanks to all of you. Kusadasi will be will EKOL. Our challenge is that we are bringing along our 3 and 7 year old children. We will keep them in the kids program for Acropolis. Can we do Acropolis, Plaka and other important sites that you might suggest in 4 hours without the kids? How do you then hire a guide at Acropolis. We prefer hearing about the sites that we are seeing from some sort of guide.

 

What about Naples? Can we walk to the train and get to Pompeii, hire a guide and get back in 4 hours like you can with an organized tour?

 

What about our time constraints in Istanbul with the kids? Can we see enough in 4 hours on our own?

 

We will pick up the kids from the camp and then walk around with them in the Cities after we tour the "boring/difficult" attractions without them.

 

Thank you for your suggestions.

[bluebellA4]

thanks for the info Hank. I just found it today . . . I am novice to the site and couldn't find the right thread until now! live and learn. We are booking a tour in Ephesus also thanks to reading your comments.

[bluebellA4]

Great info Hank. Today I booked a private tour with Amalfi-Drive today for Sorrento, Positano, Pompeii. This is our first time to Italy and don't want to do the DIY with an aggressive itinerary. Cheers!

[Hlitner]

Great info Hank. Today I booked a private tour with Amalfi-Drive today for Sorrento, Positano, Pompeii. This is our first time to Italy and don't want to do the DIY with an aggressive itinerary. Cheers!

 

You did well! If you have enough time on your tour, ask them to add Revello to your itinerary. I would even skip Sorrento to go to Ravello (this is a hill-top town above Amalfi) which is one of the most picturesque towns in all of Italy.

 

Hank

[Hlitner]

I agree with you about doing as much as you can on your own. We will be on the Solstice in July. Rome, Santorini and Mykonos will be on our own thanks to all of you. Kusadasi will be will EKOL. Our challenge is that we are bringing along our 3 and 7 year old children. We will keep them in the kids program for Acropolis. Can we do Acropolis, Plaka and other important sites that you might suggest in 4 hours without the kids? How do you then hire a guide at Acropolis. We prefer hearing about the sites that we are seeing from some sort of guide.

 

What about Naples? Can we walk to the train and get to Pompeii, hire a guide and get back in 4 hours like you can with an organized tour?

 

What about our time constraints in Istanbul with the kids? Can we see enough in 4 hours on our own?

 

We will pick up the kids from the camp and then walk around with them in the Cities after we tour the "boring/difficult" attractions without them.

 

Thank you for your suggestions.

 

Hmmm. Very tough questions when you give consideration to the children. Regarding Athens, 4 hours is really not enough time to do everything since it takes more than a half hour just to get to Athens from the port. As to tours of the Acropolis, there are always guides putting together groups near the entrance, but if you are in a hurry you can rent the audio tour and rush. The Plaka is simply a shopping district so the time is totally up to you.

 

As to Pompeii, you need 25 min to walk to the train station (if you are a fast walker), and than its about 20min on the train. If you take the local streetcar that stops in front of the port it will save you some time, and a taxi would save even more time. You also need to figure on 15 min to buy your train ticket and find your way downstairs to the right platform. Pompeii can be partially seen in 2 hours, or one could spend 8 hours and still not see all the ruins. Again, there are English speaking tours organized at the entrance and I suspect most of those tours are about 2 hours.

 

Istanbul is pretty convenient since you can get from the ship into the city in about 10 min if you grab a taxi. We have spent many days exploring Istanbul, and if you want to limit yourself to 4 hours you must make choices...because you cannot see it all. You could handle the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia within your time constraints, but Topkapi Palace really need 4 hours by itself. As to the Grand Bazaar (Covered Bazaar) you are tallking about many blocks and around 5000 stalls, so its truly a shop till you drop place. If you take your kids into Istanbul you might want to put them on a leash (I am being serious). Istanbul is very congested (the kids might find it fun) but you could quickly lose a child in the crowds of people.

 

Hank

Edited June 21, 2009 by Hlitner

[macaroni]

Which do you think would be quicker on a wednesday morning in Athens??? Taking a taxi to the Acropolis or taking the metro???? Which metro stop should we use....is changing lines and going to the Akropoli stop better or should we just walk from one of the others without wasting time changing lines?

[dianefish]

Thank you Hank for your quick response. I think my husband and I will have to bite the bullet and do the ship tours in Athens, Istanbul and Naples. We will get to see so much more in the short period of time we have as we can hop on the bus and go. We won't have the time to figure out trains, guides etc. We will bring the kids off the ship in the afternoon having a better idea of the area. I will take your suggestion about the crowds of people in Istanbul and hold on tight. Thank you for taking the time to post. Your experience and advice is remarkable.

[bluebellA4]

Thanks for the great advice . . . I will definately ask them. From what I have heard they are open to customizing.

 

Kathy

[browneyes7]

When it comes to the "missing the ship syndrome" I do hear you! We have been on over a dozen European cruises (I will not boast with the real number) and done probably a hundred port days on our own without ever missing a ship. We have come close on two ocassions., but that is another story. We recently snokeled on the Great Barrier Reef and some friends of ours ask weren't we worried about the sharks! We have also hiked in Zion National Park along some narrow cliffs. There is risk to everything and missing a ship, although not pleasent, would not be the end of the world. In fact, we actually have cut it close getting to ships when we know we could easily catch-up the next day (Livorno to Monte Carlo is a good example). When you do go far away from the ship on your own (we have often gone over 100 miles), you should always go the furthest place first and use some common sense on getting back to the area of the ship in plenty of time. For example, if you are in Livorno and decide to do Florence and Pisa on your own, go to Florence first and than stop in Pisa on the way back (only 20 min from the ship). On the other hand, if you are one of those that worries about everything, than by all means take the tour. For me, life is too much fun and too darn short to waste time worrying about all the "what ifs?" Geez, its kind of like the folks that line-up a half hour before their first sitting cause they are worried they will run out of food or someone will take their seats (smile).

 

Hank

 

I think you have a great philosophy. My husband and I do almost everything on our own, also. Of the three organized tours we've been on, we've only felt one of them was worth the money. (That was in Russia where you aren't allowed to do anything on your own, without a Russian Visa.) Taking local buses, trains, metros, and trams is part of the fun of the adventure!!!:)

[Hlitner]

I think you have a great philosophy. My husband and I do almost everything on our own, also. Of the three organized tours we've been on, we've only felt one of them was worth the money. (That was in Russia where you aren't allowed to do anything on your own, without a Russian Visa.) Taking local buses, trains, metros, and trams is part of the fun of the adventure!!!:)

 

Thanks for the kind words. By the way, we even did St Petersburg on our own about 10 years ago on a Maasdam cruise. We went through the hassle of getting our own Russian Visas and it turned out that of the approximately 1500 on the ship only 4 of us had visas. But, it could not have turned out better. For example, we went to Peterhof on a gorgeous Sunday and got there on the modern Russian hydrofoils that leave from in front of the Hermitage. We later heard that the folks on the tour were miserable because the buses were not that nice and it was a long ride. When we went to the Hermitage we met the US Naval attache (up from Moscow) who was also in line, and the three of us hired a licensed guide that approched us outside. He had previously worked as a guide for the government and knew all the guards inside. He got us in for the Russian admission fee (about 40 cents per person) which more than paid for his fee, and he turned out to be an excellent guide. We also had a lot of fun buying things at the black market that was a few blocks from the museum, and had lots of fun just going off on our own.

 

Hank

[browneyes7]

Thanks for the kind words. By the way, we even did St Petersburg on our own about 10 years ago on a Maasdam cruise. We went through the hassle of getting our own Russian Visas and it turned out that of the approximately 1500 on the ship only 4 of us had visas. But, it could not have turned out better. For example, we went to Peterhof on a gorgeous Sunday and got there on the modern Russian hydrofoils that leave from in front of the Hermitage. We later heard that the folks on the tour were miserable because the buses were not that nice and it was a long ride. When we went to the Hermitage we met the US Naval attache (up from Moscow) who was also in line, and the three of us hired a licensed guide that approched us outside. He had previously worked as a guide for the government and knew all the guards inside. He got us in for the Russian admission fee (about 40 cents per person) which more than paid for his fee, and he turned out to be an excellent guide. We also had a lot of fun buying things at the black market that was a few blocks from the museum, and had lots of fun just going off on our own.

 

Hank

That sounds wonderful! My husband said that we would get Russian Visas if we ever go back. We booked that cruise too late to even try to get one. Thanks for all the great advice you give everyone on these boards!:)

Edited June 22, 2009 by browneyes7

[stripe]

Hi. I have been reading the various threads about Venice...we will be there for 5 days prior to our cruise from there in Sept. We're thinking about taking a one-day train ride into the countryside....maybe Padua or Verona. Has anyone here done that?? Any preference which city??

Barbara Jo

[macaroni]

Both cities are great....Padua is closer. Consider doing 2 days.

[Hlitner]

Verona is also a nice city to visit with its amazing (and still oft used) Roman theater and a very nice pedestrian mall area in the center of town (just across the piazza from the Roman Theater. One highlight of Verona is the very famous Opera season held during the summer months. The operas are performed outdoors in the Roman Theater to crowds in excess of 10,000 making it the largest opera house in the world. Information regarding the opera can be found on-line at http://www.arena.it/en-US/HOMEen.html

 

Hank

[CintiPam]

We took a lovely day-trip from Venice to Padua a couple of years ago. The Giotto frescos in the Scrovegni Chapel are incomparable. The Basilica of St. Anthony is another lovely stop there.

 

We also planned to day trip to Verona but the weather was so fantastic during our October visit that we ended up staying that day in town just walking around and riding the vaporettos.

[stripe]

Thank you! It sounds like we can't go wrong with either city!!

[6Travel]

What rental car company do you recommend for Corfu? Sunshine Rentals is already soldout for "Automatic" cars.

[Hlitner]

Getting automatic transmissions in Europe can be very difficult not to mention quite expensive. In fact, many European rental car rental offices do not even have automatics. I suggest you do a google search for a list of rental car companies in Corfu and start sending e-mails to each of them asking if they have automatics. On the other hand, if you plan on doing a lot of car renting in Europe it would be a good investment to learn to drive a stick. For whatever reason, Europeans love their manual transmissions and have long resisted changing to automatics.

 

Hank

[jms2362]

I enjoy monitoring this board and reading everyone's advice. A few years ago I used to contribute lots of help here for those who wanted advice on how to do any of the European ports on their own (we have been to most of these places multiple times). I stopped most of my help because I got tired of being flamed by others who insisted that the only way to do anything is on an organized tour (this is true for some folks). However, given the very high price of tours (the low value dollar does not help) I am surprised to see almost everyone resigned to tours. Western Europe is pretty easy to navigate on your own although it helps to do some homework. The advantage of being on your own is you avoid the "cattle like" mentality of some tours, get to do what you want when you want with who you want, and usually you will save money. In fact, on a 12 day Med cruise you can easily save over $1000 (or more) by doing things independent of tours. The down side of independent travel is that you do need to do your pre-trip homework,, but to some of us that is part of the fun. My main problem with most tours is that they try to crowd too much "touring" into a short period of time without giving you a chance to see the real Europe. A lot of the joy of visiting some cities (Rome, Paris, etc) is spending time at an outdoor cafe enjoying local cuisine, wine and people watching (this is how many Europeans enjoy themselves). Personally, when in Rome I would quickly give-up seeing some site in order to have time for lunch or a snack at one of the cafes in the Piazza Navona. But, I guess this is where the "different strokes for different folks" saying reigns surpreme.

 

Hank

How was Knossos in Hiraklion? Have read many reviews good and bad, we were thinking of taking Bus #2 to Knossos and then a bus to town. What are your thoughts.

[Hlitner]

We have never used the local buses in Iraklion. If we are staying in town, we simply walk from the cruise pier into downtown. If going out of town (such as to Knossos) we will normally just rent a car and drive ourselves since we like the freedom to go where we want, when we want, with who we want. As to the ruins at Knossos, this is one of those personal preference things. My DW and I really like ruins and the related history, and this particular site has a lot of historical significance. The fact that much of the city was underground and they actually had plumbing and real toilets is very interesting. Keep in mind that there are no articfacts at the site since anything found has pretty much found its way to the Archealogical Museum that is in town (within walking distance of the port). Crete is a very large island and one could probably spend several weeks exploring the entire island. Regarding your question about using the bus, that would seem to make a lot of sense if you can verify the schedule and bus stops. Your back-up plan could always be to simply grab a taxi (they are plentiful).

 

Hank