Review of Ponant Le Bellot Essential Azores April 11-18, 2023

[Host Jazzbeau]

 

Review

 

Since this is being published on Cruise Critic, I will start with the cruise portion and then add the air and land bits at the end.  The day by day blog will follow in subsequent posts.

 

This was our second cruise on Ponant.  We enjoyed it, but not everything was perfect.  Our cabin, 416, was excellent – we liked it even better than 509 because without the connecting door we got a couch.  Food was very good – better than on our Iceland cruise in 2019.  We only went to one show [meh] and one classical entertainer [good music, but little personality].  We took three ship excursions and enjoyed all of them [but when Ponant says a hike is ‘strenuous’ you’d better believe them!].  The Blue Eye lounge was again a disappointment – the tours closed out before we could sign up, it was rarely open and the one time we dropped in it was empty and the windows were not showing any ocean life.

 

The biggest disappointment on this Ponant cruise was the ways we felt the Anglophones were treated as second-class. First, the officers clearly struggled with English [the crew actually prefer it, but there is little interaction with them in this cruise line’s culture].  Second, the French passengers tend to stay to themselves – that’s not a criticism since I’m sure we seem to do the same when in the majority, but it is a fact to be aware of.  And third, the French passengers did not treat us with courtesy: the worst example was when the Captain made an announcement at dinner about the medical emergency – in French first, bien sûr – the French passengers immediately resumed talking loudly and drowned out the English version.

 

Our first cruise on Ponant had been with a Backroads hiking group.  That gave us our own Anglophone clique plus our Backroads guides who served as liaison to the ship personnel and who arranged all our excursions and several onboard extras – all of course in English.  That was a much more satisfactory arrangement.  So in the future we will look at Ponant itineraries, but only if we can book as part of an Anglophone group like Tauck [Backroads is too strenuous for us now] or on one of their co-branded Smithsonian Journeys cruises that are marketed primarily to North Americans.

 

Flying – This was our first trip on United in a long time, and our first in United business class.  The 787-10 Polaris service was the best business flight we have had: comfy lie-flat beds, good food, excellent service.  But the return in Premium Select was a big step down – I thought the last row (of only 3) would be quieter with no one behind us, but they were already down to one portion of the only meat entrée [and it wasn’t very good anyway].

 

We had a lot of trouble pre-flight with TAP’s website and phone reps.  Thankfully the first flight was actually pretty good (we were able to upgrade, which helped).  But the second TAP plane was dirty and the lack of upgrade opportunities showed the limitations of this airline.  SATA was ok once we got onboard but I would only fly them if, like this time, there was no alternative.  [I understand that all the Portuguese airlines are for sale; I hope one buyer integrates all of them and raises them to European flag airline standards.]  The pre-flight experiences may have been made worse because I booked our flights as code shares through United [the middle one was actually a SATA flight booked through TAP].  Still, TAP and SATA have very restrictive rules and while their planes and service were ok for short flights I wouldn’t want to use them for longer ones.

 

Lisbon – This was our first visit to Lisbon and the only thing we did was visit the Gulbenkian Museum – which I recommend very highly.  [My next blog will be of an upcoming three-week trip to Portugal with several days in Lisbon, so I will have much more to report on then.]  The DoubleTree Lisbon–Fontana Park is not recommended.

 

Azores and Madeira – The Azores and Madeira have been featured in a lot of magazines and online over the last few years and the pictures make the landscapes seem very lush and romantic.  Maybe if you are on a transatlantic cruise and haven’t seen land for days?  But to spend a week in each was really too much.  “Volcanic landscapes, volcanic landscapes, and more volcanic landscapes…”

 

Every island and every tour was interesting, the food was very good (and the Azorean wines and especially the sweet Madeira wine was very good indeed), and the Portuguese people in the Azores and Madeira were uniformly friendly and welcoming.  And the prices are very reasonable compared to the US!  But in the end it was too much of a muchness.  Glad we went, but no need to return.

 

Shout-outs to:

•  Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, Azores

•  Castanheiro Boutique Hotel in Funchal, Madeira

 

•  Michel Restaurant in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, Azores

•  Dona Amélia Restaurant in Funchal, Madeira

•  Gavião Novo restaurant in Funchal, Madeira

•  Restaurante Do Forte in Funchal, Madeira

   [and their Classic Austin 12 pick-up service!]

•  Regional Flavours restaurant in Funchal, Madeira

 

•  Azorean Tours in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, Azores

•  Trilhos R tours in Horta, Faial, Azores

•  Spot Tours in Praia da Vitória, Terceira, Azores

•  Madeira Island Tours in Funchal, Madeira

 

If you have any questions, please reply to this thread – or email me at jazzbeauster@gmail.com

 

And if you found this blog helpful, here’s a link to all our other travel blogs: jazzbeauxblogs.wordpress.com

[Host Jazzbeau]

Blog Introduction

 

This is a blog of the Jazzbeaux Essential Azores cruise on Ponant Le Bellot + a DIY Madeira trip, from April 9 to 25, 2023.

 

We few United from Newark (EWR) to Lisbon (LIS); used the long layover to visit the Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon; then continued on TAP to Ponta Delgada (PDL) – our luggage had been checked through, so we only had to store our carry-ons at the Lisbon airport.  We stayed overnight in Ponta Delgada at the Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico [recommended] and took a private tour of western São Miguel island, then walked right over to the ship for our seven-night Ponant cruise to the five central islands of the Azores (Faial, Graciosa, São Jorge, Terceira, and Pico) before returning for an overnight in São Miguel and another private tour to the eastern part of the island.  After another overnight in the Grand Hotel, we flew SATA direct to Funchal (FNC) and stayed at the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel [recommended] for six nights while we explored the large island of Madeira.  Flying home required an even longer layover in Lisbon, so we stayed a night in the DoubleTree Lisbon–Fontana Park [not recommended]

 

During the trip, Jazzbelle kept detailed notes and I [Jazzbeau] took lots of pictures.  After returning home, I revised the notes to remove names [to protect the guilty, as we say…] and put it in my voice to avoid confusion.  Jazzbelle became ‘DW’ in internet parlance [‘Dear Wife’].

 

Planning for this trip was on me because Ponant doesn’t include shore excursions [unlike Noble Caledonia], and my mainstay Rick Steves doesn’t do the Azores or Madeira.  For this trip I relied on Moon Azores (2020), Eyewitness Top 10 Madeira (2022), Tom’s Azores (Ponta Delgada) Port Guide (2015); as well as Trip Advisor [www.tripadvisor.com], The Fork [www.thefork.com] and, of course, Cruise Critic [www.cruisecritic.com].

 

What follows is a day-by-day account of the trip, with a selection of pictures, followed by a Conclusion with our review of the Ponant Essential Azores cruise and Le Bellot.

 

Enjoy!

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Sun April 9, 2023 (Easter) – On the Road Again in United Polaris

 

Our driver Patrick (a young man from Brazil) arrived and helped take our luggage to the Lincoln SUV.  We were on the way to Newark Airport by 5:35 pm and arrived at Departures at 6:30.  We were assisted through a speedy sort of DIY check-in, with our big bags weighing in at 39 (mine) and 47 lbs (DW's).  [I had decided to load up DW’s since I was afraid mine was too heavy – obviously I’m not a good judge…]

 

We made it through security without a hitch and found our way to the United Polaris Lounge, which is probably the nicest such place we’ve ever been.  Large, spacious in layout and welcoming, we easily grabbed a table for two near the extensive buffet.  On one side were three green salads and various fixings, sandwiches, and a variety of cold cuts and desserts.  On the other counter were hot foods: tikka masala chicken, lo mein noodles, roasted root vegetables… and a cauldron of hot lobster bisque on the side.  I enjoyed everything I took [I avoided those potential tooth breakers—chocolate chip cookies.  (Which you will understand if you have read our previous blog...)]

 

We made it to our flight without incident and sat in the third row of this 787-10’s business class [United Polaris, very nice indeed].  Our flight attendants were very attentive, and the pilot put the pedal to the metal and had us to Lisbon in under six hours despite significant turbulence.

 

For dinner I had flat iron steak and DW had turbot fillet.  We both had salad, ginger beef appetizer – and for dessert I chose Portuguese egg custard tart, and DW an ice cream sundae.

 

The reclining beds were the best we’ve had on any such flights.  We each got a couple of hours of sleep.  [Maybe Virgin Atlantic's actual bedding makes their business class even better – it's been a long time since that flight so my memory is a little vague.]

 

For breakfast I selected Brioche French toast with blueberry-lemon-vanilla compote.  DW opted for baked egg with Gruyere cheese and mushrooms.

 

All in all one of the best flights we have had, and we emerged relatively rested and ready for a little sightseeing before our continuing flight.

[Host Jazzbeau]

Mon April 10, 2023 – Lisbon Layover at Gulbenkian Museum

 

I checked to make sure our bags were set to go on to Ponta Delgada.  Once confirmed, we headed outside the Lisbon airport and found the lockers, where we left our carry-ons.

 

We then took an uber from the Kiss and Fly lot to the Gulbenkian Museum where we paid 17 Euros (total) for two senior admissions.  Calouste Gulbenkian was an Armenian Jew known as ‘Mister Five Percenter’ – he brokered a deal to get a 5% cut on Middle Eastern oil (back in the day).  He then made a habit of ‘tithing for art,’ spending 10% of his income to buy up art and antiquities all over the world, creating one of the best private art collections in the world.  He offered to donate the collection to Britain if he could become a British citizen, but when that was denied he sought asylum in Lisbon where he was welcomed (in 1942 … connect the dots) and spent the rest of his life.  He donated his billion-dollar estate to create an arts foundation to promote culture in Portugal, where he remains an inspirational model of how to be thoughtfully wealthy.  The funds were used to build and maintain a beautiful building to house the collection, which consists of more than 6,000 pieces – although only 1,000 are on display in the museum galleries which are spread out in a logical progression on one floor.  There is also a separate building for the Modern Collection, a garden, a cafeteria, and the mandatory gift shop.

 

The collection covers a vast geographical, chronological and aesthetic range extending from antiquity to the early 20th century.  We saw things from Egypt, Greece and Rome, the Islamic World – including lots of oriental carpets (reflecting Gulbenkian’s Armenian heritage), Japan and the Far East, Medieval Europe, Renaissance and Baroque painting, the Louis XIV-XVI eras, Romantic and Impressionist painting (including Cassatt, Degas, Gainsborough, Monet, Renoir, Turner, and Rodin statutes) – and an entire room of Lalique jewelery and art glass.  A ‘just right’ display – as comprehensive in scope as the Met Museum in NY but small enough to appreciate in one day.

 

We were tired after our flight and tour, and found some comfortable lounge chairs for a brief respite before taking uber back to the airport, where we redeemed our carry-ons and went through security for our second flight.

 

Still having some time before takeoff, we went to the ANA lounge where we dozed in high back chairs.  DW had a small salad and an even smaller vegetarian sandwich.

 

Our upgrade bid was accepted by TAP so we got to sit in ‘business class’ [which just meant that the middle seats are left empty].  No one mentioned that we (and everyone) would have to take a bus across the tarmac [the driver seemed uncertain as to which of the planes parked out in ‘Siberia’ was ours] and then carry our small bags up the stairs to the plane.  

 

The flight was pretty full, and thanks to upgrades like ours the business section was completely full.  DW and I were assigned aisle seats in different rows, and one family was separated.  One of the flight attendants asked passengers to change seats, so that family got to sit together and DW and I ended up across the aisle from each other.  [It later turned out that the 3 people involved in ‘musical chairs’ were all on our cruise.]

 

Since it was only a two hour 25 minute flight we were surprised by meal service: smoked salmon, cream cheese, quail egg, manchego cheese, fresh fruit, brown bread/butter, cake/jam.  The young male FA seemed to be in training and tried very hard.  A somewhat older woman showed her experience and was a good mentor to him.

 

We landed on the island of São Miguel and walked back down the open stairs.  This was a tiny airport, so we were parked near the terminal.  Only three luggage carousels total!  Our checked luggage did indeed make the connection, so we were all set.

 

Our driver César (from AzoreanTours) was waiting to take us to the Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico in Ponta Delgada, located right across from where our ship would dock.

 

We toddled off to have dinner in the TripAdvisor-recommended Restaurante Gastronomo only to find them closed for vacation [Easter week].  We walked back along that street hoping to find something else – maybe Michel where we had reservations for the end of the cruise, but they were full – so we wound up in the Vapore Bar & Lounge in our hotel.  I had seared tuna on a bed of rice flavored with tomato and cilantro [the tuna was overcooked but still edible].  DW chose fried octopus (in corn meal) with mashed purple sweet potato and a dab of pickled vegetables.  OK, but I wouldn't dine there again.

 

We slept well and were shocked when the morning alarm sounded.

 

01 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisbon

 

02 Greek Crater

 

03 Carpets

 

04 Oriental Vases

 

05 Louis XIV, XV & XVI

 

06 Mary Cassatt

 

07 Mme Monet by Renoir

 

08 John Singer Sargent

 

09 Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux

 

10 Réné Lalique

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Tue April 11, 2023 – Western São Miguel and Ponant Le Bellot

 

We went to the breakfast buffet in the hotel restaurant on 1.  Eggs were better than what we had anywhere in South America on our previous trip.

 

At 9 am we met up with César (from AzoreanTours) again.  He was our driver/guide for the next 5 hours.  He was happy to do our list of preferred sights but suggested we take a short detour out to Termas da Ferraria where there is a hot spring.  We enjoyed walking on the lava rock [the Azores are an archipelago like Hawaii, due to volcanic eruptions over a long period].  We watched aquamarine waves crashing on these black rocks and crabs skittering across them.  Along the way was a scenic lava arch.  We saw bathers going into the sea pool where the hot spring was [depending on the tide, the water will be nice and warm – water from the hot spring dominating at low tide – or chilly – ocean water dominating].  Showers and changing rooms awaited them up the hill.  On our way back to the van we passed a small cinder cone, but climbing to it was prohibited.

 

Exiting the area we drove back up the exceptionally steep hill and got back on track.  César told us that eight of the nine Azores islands is volcanic; one has no lava rock and it has white sand beaches [but all our other guides said that all nine are volcanic, which makes sense given their location in the mid-Atlantic].

 

César liked to say that the Azores have two things to offer – nature and friendliness.  He said the weather this April was better than usual.  [I think that jinxed it for us.  Not that we had rain but at times the fog was so dense, we could see nothing from the scenic overlooks.]

 

He was a fast driver and could be, knowing the roads well.  One time he got stuck behind farm tractors and patiently waited till he could safely get by them.  He honked and passed quickly resuming his usual pace.  We passed fields of cows (mostly B&W and 90% of them used for dairy) which outnumber human residents 2:1.  As there are no predators, farmers do not keep burros to protect them.  Some of the wealthy landowners have burros as pets.  [DW has a fascination with burros, which in our snowbird locale are used to protect the cattle from coyotes.]

 

Along the road were some well-appointed and attractive picnic areas enticing people to relax, refresh and enjoy the water views.  The roads were smoothly paved, and things like these picnic areas and the hot spring showers show the government doing a lot to make life enjoyable for the residents.

 

We drove up to Miradouro (lookout) da Ponta do Escalvado and looked down on Mosteiros, our next stop.  A worker was whitewashing all the cement guardwalls to make the area more attractive.  On a hill to our right was Vigia da Baleia (whale lookout), which was actually visible later when the fog lifted.

 

We drove down to Praia dos Mosteiros and stopped at "Scenic Steve’s Bistro" to enjoy the view.  César later stopped the van so I could get a good photo of the famous Mosteiros sea stacks.  Many of the houses here were freshly painted and most were topped with Spanish tile roofs.

 

Next stop was Lagoa das Sete Cidades (= 7 Cities – nobody knows why it's called that...) where we walked down to the edge of the lake.  People could rent kayaks and bikes.  There was a small café where visitors could buy snacks, get a meal, use the potties.  We witnessed a couple of huge ducks who came right up to the café’s three cats.  One was just being sociable.  The other went straight for the cat’s food bowls.  The cats didn’t stir.

 

The twin lakes were at the top of our list of anticipated big attractions for the morning.  Divided by a roadway, these two lakes are both part of the same volcanic crater and the deeper one is 600m deep.  They have different water colors because of the reflection of the surrounding green trees on the shallower one and the reflection of the blue sky on the deeper one.  We didn’t get the full effect because of the clouds and fog.

 

César drove us uphill to see the Lagoa de Sao Tiago (St. James), a small unreachable lake [no roads or hiking paths into it].  We walked over to the viewpoint for Cerrado das Freiras but it was too foggy for photos.  We also stopped at Vista do Rei (King’s View) but couldn’t see anything.  The same for Miradouro da Grota do Inferno.

 

Still looking for clear views, we stopped along the north side of the island and saw Aqueduto do Carvão [ancient-looking but not built by Romans] and a lake where a road rally had taken place the week before.

 

The final viewpoint on our list, Miradouro do Pico do Carvão, had good views of a bucolic scene with green farmland and cows, and in the distance four villages at the water’s edge.

 

Heading back to town, César was disappointed for us that we didn’t get to see everything on our list, but he had taken us to other interesting sights so we were not disappointed.  He once again suggested we visit the Pineapple plantation.  I had rejected this because we had visited the huge Dole plantation in Hawaii, but since we had time to kill I said Yes this time.  César led us on a short tour and then took us into their café for pineapple toast and liqueur (free to all visitors, and very good!).  [This isn’t worth scheduling instead of something else, but it was more interesting than I had expected because the pineapples are grown in white plastic greenhouses so it is quite different from the huge outdoor expanse of the Dole plantation.]

 

Our last stop was an ATM to get cash to pay for the tour.  Back at the hotel, César gave us his phone number in case there was any way he could help us during our stay.  [Thus proving his claim that the Azores is known for the friendliness of the people!]

 

As he drove away, we went across the street to figure out how we could drag our luggage to our waiting ship, Ponant Le Bellot.  Problem solved, we returned to the hotel and had two hours till our extended checkout at 4:00 [which cost us an additional 50 Euros but was worth it].  DW had a snack [she’s always got something in her bag saved from the airline or a breakfast buffet], worked on the blog and dozed a bit before the final packing.  I was at the computer keeping up with Cruise Critic.

 

We checked out and discovered that the public elevator down to the Maritime Terminal was not working, so we walked down the car ramp.  We went through security and our bags were taken onto the ship.  We walked the line of some of the ship’s officers and some 12 year old said “I am your Captain.”  Hope we didn’t look too shocked!  [Nothing like a reminder that we're getting on in years.  Everybody – doctors, captains, etc. – looks 12 years old now...]

 

We turned in our passports, did the necessary checking in and were shown to our stateroom (416) by Pio from Indonesia.  Our bags were already at the door [love these small ships!] and Pio brought them inside for us.  DW started to deal with them.  We had cross-packed [DW says Ugh! but it is a powerful talisman against losing our luggage…]  I was trying to get the internet to cooperate.

 

We noticed that it was already almost 5 pm, so I went to the 5:15 program about shore excursions.  DW kept trying to sort and store her things.  At 6:15 we both went to the theatre to listen to Clement (tour director) tell us about the wonders of the spa, and some future cruises…  Then we had to retrieve our life vests from our cabin and get to the dining room for the mandatory muster drill.  Crew helped us at the door to get the vests on, but not well.  Adjustments were needed.  On other vessels, we have been encouraged to try to do it ourselves and they would assist if need be.  The process needs work!  If there were a real emergency I’m not sure I or most people would have been able to cope.

 

We hurried back to our room to get ready for dinner.  Business casual dress.  Some were in jeans [maybe their luggage hadn’t arrived].  Most appropriately attired.  The maître d’ sat us at an empty table for six at the window (port side), but no Anglophones wanted to share so he later seated a Swiss couple at the other end of the table.

 

Dinner in the Nautilus dining room was quite good.  We both started with grilled octopus on chickpea hummus.  DW had a green salad with Balsamic.  We both chose roasted lamb loin stuffed with herbs served with pak choy [bok choy], fig and onion marmalade for our entrées [I’m using US terminology for this course, rather than continental].  And for dessert, I had Blanc-manger* and DW chocolate fondant.  [*aka “bli’-mange” – a British staple (or at least a Monty Python joke butt) – tried it, and thank you very much but not again…]

 

After dinner, DW explored the various levels of the ship and got a cup of not very hot chamomile tea at the 6th deck lounge/library.  I continued to organize and store my belongings.  Then DW worked on the blog until it was time for bed.

 

01 Termas da Ferraria

 

02 Termas da Ferraria

 

03 Lava Arch, Termas da Ferraria

 

04 Lava Arch, Termas da Ferraria

 

05 Termas da Ferraria

 

06 Cinder Cone, Termas da Ferraria

 

07 Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado

 

08 Praia dos Mosteiros

 

09 Praia dos Mosteiros

 

10 Lagoa das Sete Cidades

 

11 Lagoa das Sete Cidades

 

12 Lagoa das Sete Cidades

 

13 Duck & Cats, Sete Cidades

 

14 view of Lagoa das Sete Cidades

 

15 Lagoa de São Tiago

 

16 Aqueduto do Carvão

 

17 'Rally Lake'

 

18 Miradouro do Pico do Carvão

 

19 Miradouro do Pico do Carvão

 

20 Pineapple Plantation, Ponta Delgada

 

21 Pineapple Plantation, Ponta Delgada

 

22 Pineapple Plantation, Ponta Delgada

 

23 Pineapple Plantation, Ponta Delgada

 

24 Le Bellot in Ponta Delgada

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Wed April 12, 2023 – Hiking the Caldeira on Faial

 

We docked in Horta on Faial.  Island #2 for us.  It was overcast with patches of blue sky breaking through.  It would hit the low 60s.  (Yesterday on São Miguel it might have reached the mid 60s.)

 

The Portuguese language sounds nothing like Spanish.  When listening to it, one would think you are hearing someone Slavic speaking.  They soften the ends of words.  DW’s big accomplishment was learning three words: obrigado/a (thank you), nada (you’re welcome), and sanitarios (rest rooms).  [I learned even less, but did manage to order delicious food and good local wines…]

 

We started off the day in the dining room with breakfast buffet or ordering à la carte.  DW eats minimally at breakfast, and brings her own cereal – so the waiters always feel underutilized.  I ordered Eggs Benedict with bacon, and enjoyed the freshly-made Hollandaise sauce.

 

I had arranged for a local guide to take us on an easy hike today.  Around a caldera.  The Caldeira do Faial is a crater of an extinct volcano about 400,000 years old, located in the central part of Faial Island, with a diameter of 2,000 meters and a depth of 400 meters.  It is listed on both the island tourism website and the tour company’s website as an easy hike of 7 km around one of the biggest volcanic craters in the Azores.  “It’s a perfect way to enjoy fantastic landscapes inside this giant crater and see some parishes that exist around the island.  In a word: impressive!”  [What could go wrong?]

 

Our guide, 39 year old native Ramiro Paz (from TrilhosR.com), picked us up at the maritime terminal at 9:30.  We drove a twisty mountain road for about an hour and enjoyed the sunny, clear weather as we approached the summit parking area.  He pointed out the many cattle – the solid color ones are mostly raised for beef and the B&W for dairy.  The residents eat beef and fish.

 

The setting was almost picture perfect with freshly painted houses and orange tile roofs.  Hydrangea bushes lined the roads (and the hiking path).

 

Ramiro estimated the hike would take us three hours.  We started off as did others, but most of them went in the opposite direction.  Ramiro thought it better to tackle the steepest path first.  And we agreed – we find it’s always best to do the hard part while fresh and not tired – but what happened to ‘easy’?  It was a doozy!!!  We had an uneven path of ruts, mud (sometimes actually muddy water which came over the sides of our hiking shoes), rocks and the droppings of goats and cattle.  At times we had to use our hands to move from one level to the next, or get an assist from Ramiro.  [A lesson we learned on the Camino de Santiago: walk in a relaxed manner, and accept help when offered.]

 

The weather at the beginning was lovely, but then intermittent fog rolled in.  At first it was interesting because Ramiro pointed out how the caldera prevented the fog from dropping down – as soon as it came over the rim air currents pushed it back up again.  But as the fog thickened, it finally started to fill even the caldera.

 

From time to time it would clear enough so we had partial views of the landscape.  However, the weather continued to deteriorate and the fog became a steady light rain and toward the end we had very little view.  But we succeeded in finishing the hike.  Hooray!

 

Ramiro drove us back to the ship.  We had missed lunch because the hike took longer than predicted.  DW had a fiber bar and a cookie in our cabin, and I went to ‘Parisian’ Tea Time.  [Every afternoon Ponant has tea time, with a different country theme each day.]

 

Because we were both beat, we decided not to go into Horta to look at the local museum’s collection of miniature houses and vessels made from fig tree pith [I thought this sounded like the NY Botanical Garden’s Christmas train show, but DW said what???]  There was also a Scrimshaw Museum and sailors’ Jetty Murals, but naps sounded better anyway – especially since I had us hiking down a mountain on Friday.

 

Tonight was Captain Romain Dufau-Hitou’s welcome gala evening.  It began in Reception with photographs being taken of any passenger who would like to pose with the captain.  [We passed on that.]  Next was his welcome and introduction of the officers in the theatre.  We attended and were given flutes of champagne [or nectar for DW] and two hors d’oeuvres each.  [So the Captain must be older than 12, because he was allowed to drink!  And we must be on a French ship, because he was allowed to drink!]

 

Immediately following this event, we all proceeded to the Nautilus dining room for the Gala Dinner.  We were to choose between the fixed Classic or Vegetarian menus [or the always available offerings].  Of course we opted for Classic.  ["I didn’t fight and claw my way to the top of the food chain to become a vegetarian!"]  It began with an amuse-bouche of caramelized onion royal, flavored with truffle.  Then the cold starter: sliced lobster with celery rémoulade and truffled lobster dressing.  Next was the hot starter: parrot fish with mashed sweet potatoes and exotic fruit salsa.  The main course was tenderloin of veal (topped with foie gras), potato gratin and caramelized onions, and truffle sauce.  Dessert was similar to a mini-pavlova: dôme à la vanille with red fruits and lime zest.  Then a plate of passion fruit tartlets and pistachio cake.  A very nice meal!

 

We decided to go to the show New York in the theatre.  It had the three ship dancers and Luana, production singer.  I enjoyed it, but DW could have passed.  They tried hard but it was lacking.  [This is the downside of small ships: small entertainment casts…]

 

Upon returning to 416, we found our clean laundry on hangers on the bed.  Job well done!  [We forget when we sent it out – probably this afternoon after the hike, because we had only left home a few days before.  So that was terrific service.]

 

01 Faial Island

 

02 Caldeira do Faial

 

03 Caldeira do Faial

 

04 Caldeira do Faial

 

05 Caldeira do Faial

 

06 Caldeira do Faial

 

07 Caldeira do Faial

 

08 Caldeira do Faial

 

09 Caldeira do Faial

 

10 Faial Island

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Thu April 13, 2023 – Graciosa Island

 

DW was having breakfast in the dining room when it was announced that a whale had been sighted.  One of the wait staff pointed it out to her.  Neat!

 

We gathered at 8:45 am in the Main Lounge on 3 for a half-day ship excursion (in English) Wonders of Graciosa.  It is the northernmost of the islands forming the Azores archipelago.  It is known for its stunning landscapes with vines surrounded by walls of black basalt, steep shores and transparent sea beds.

 

We were surprised upon getting to the lounge that there was no crew member present to corral us onto the waiting bus.  But one finally appeared and we were on our way just after 9 am.  [Le Bellot seemed to be on ‘theater time’ generally.]  Livette, a local, was our guide.  

 

We headed south from São Mateus (St. Matthew), the eastern fishing village (used to be whalers) with its Flemish windmills that were once used for the production of cereal grain; now the roofs are painted bright red and they are used for houses.

 

There are four villages on the island: Luz, Santa Cruz, Guadalupe, São Mateus.  Each has its own primary school but they are all under one president/principal.  Livette told us this was an island of music where the children are encouraged in school to learn musical instruments and that 100 pianos are housed around the island.

 

As on the other islands, cattle were in evidence.  Here they seem to be primarily for beef.  There are also a number of garlic plantations.  Their garlic is known for its strong flavor and residents think that helps clean their blood.

 

We arrived in the popular Termas do Carapacho, a spa complex from the 19th century.  It is inhabited by summer residents some of whom rent out their homes, but we were early in the season so it was pretty deserted.  We finally struck up a conversation with a couple from Florida while waiting for the cue to get back on the bus.

 

Although we couldn’t see them, Gloriosa is known for its beaches.  There had been a devastating storm which wiped much of them away and sand had to be imported to replace what was lost.

 

Some areas of the bay are not allowed to be fished.  They are preserved as feeding areas for waterfowl.

 

We continued on through a short tunnel to the Caldeira to see Furna do Enxofre.  This large sulfur cave with its interior lake is a rare volcanic phenomenon.  The first explorations of this cave began in the 19th century and were attended by international scholars such as Prince Albert I of Monaco, who was, in 1879, one of the first to go down to the lake.  There was no easy access in those days (before the 183-step staircase was built) and he was lowered on a long rope.  The cave can be dangerous at times of year when the air gets stagnant, so CO monitors are in evidence to monitor air quality in the cave.

 

We descended a long narrow concrete spiral staircase to see the luminous walls of the cave and the river (which wouldn’t have stood out except that there was a row boat in it!).  Climbing back up the stairs was more of a challenge than coming down and rest stops were in order along the way.  We were all relieved upon getting to the top that we could hop on a bus and not have to climb the additional 194 steps that we had walked down from the parking lot.  Back on our own bus, we had to wait for a missing passenger and a lost cellphone.  Both were found!

 

We continued to the west to the viewpoint of Ponta da Barca where there was a lighthouse (built in 1930) inhabited by a family.  No admission!  Just a photo op.  But we really got the full effect of the black basalt cliffs.  And there was a small island there in the shape of a whale.  How apropos to the way the day started!

 

We passed through Guadalupe which is known for its clay for pottery and roof tiles.  Fields everywhere were divided by dry stone walls.  Cows were being moved through the streets probably to different fields.

 

On to the capital of the island, Santa Cruz (Holy Cross).  We got off the bus in the center of town and had a half hour to explore.  It was well maintained but rather dull.  All the buildings were painted white.  The only differences seemed to be the trim color.  And they had lackluster, faded Spanish tile roofs.

 

The mayor had asked a handful of craftspeople to assemble around noon to display their wares including liquor, jams, hand knit goods, replicas of the lighthouses, etc.  We were not tempted, but then we usually aren’t.

 

We visited the local church, Igreja Matriz Santa Cruz.  Overly decorated and ornate but well maintained.

 

As we headed back to the ship Livette told us that every year on May 24 there is a five-mile trans-island procession in honor of Our Lady saving the residents from some disaster.  And that at the top of one of the volcanoes there are a couple of chapels and one of these hills is named Our Lady of the Alps mountain.

 

We returned to Le Bellot by 12:45 pm in time for lunch in the dining room (served till 1:30).  Ponant always has a variety of cheeses and freshly baked bread at lunch.  Also salads, cold cuts, shrimp, soup plus à la carte menu items.  And of course there are French desserts!  DW grazed the salad bar and cheese offerings and selected a third of a brownie with fresh fruit on the side.  I ordered red snapper and enjoyed a slice of custard tart.

 

I then opted for a nap and DW went to a movie in the theatre.  It was a documentary: La Voie du Pôle [about a failed attempt to take a hybrid ice yacht, capable of navigating both on ice and water, to the North Pole].  She was one of three people.  Afterward I went down for a presentation on the remaining excursions, where I was one of three people.

 

At dinner in the Nautilus we sat with a couple from Florida (Lisa and Lyndsey).  I started with citrus marinated sea bream, then had Iberian pork pluma* bellota, potatoes espuma and olives.  DW had a salad, then pike perch fillet with spinach, mushroom, fennel shavings and saffron emulsion.  We both had lemon meringue tart for dessert.

 

*On an earlier Ponant cruise we had seen a menu item called ‘Pork Feather.’  I had passed, saying I would wait “until pigs fly.”  It turns out it’s an Iberian delicacy properly called Ibérico pork pluma.  It’s the end loin of the Ibérico pig, the swine counterpart of the flank and comes from the back of the neck.  It’s referred to as the feather cut because of how thin and long it is, with pointed ends like the tip of a delicate feather.  It’s also tender and flavorful.  So if you see it on a menu, don’t wait “until pigs fly”…

 

We missed the production show Hisseo.

 

01 Graciosa Island

 

02 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

03 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

04 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

05 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

06 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

07 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

08 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

09 Termas do Carapacho, Graciosa

 

10 Furna do Enxofre

 

11 Furna do Enxofre

 

12 Furna do Enxofre

 

13 Furna do Enxofre

 

14 Furna do Enxofre

 

15 Furna do Enxofre

 

16 Furna do Enxofre

 

17 Furna do Enxofre

 

18 Furna do Enxofre

 

19 Furna do Enxofre

 

20 Furna do Enxofre

 

21 Furna do Enxofre

 

22 Furna do Enxofre

 

23 Farol da Ponta da Barca

 

24 Ponta da Barca

 

25 'Whale Island,' Ponta da Barca

 

26 Ponta da Barca

 

27 Ponta da Barca

 

28 Ponta da Barca

 

29 Ponta da Barca

 

30 Santa Cruz, Graciosa

 

31 Santa Cruz, Graciosa

 

32 Santa Cruz, Graciosa

 

33 Santa Cruz, Graciosa

 

34 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

35 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

36 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

37 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

38 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

39 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

40 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

41 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

42 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

43 Igreja Matriz de Santa Cruz

 

44 Santa Cruz, Graciosa

 

45 Santa Cruz, Graciosa

 

46 Praia da Graciosa

 

47 Praia da Graciosa

[Host Jazzbeau]

Fri April 14, 2023 – São Jorge Island

 

The port of Velas is on the southern coast of the island of São Jorge (St. George) island.  São Jorge was discovered in 1448 by Portuguese sailors.  This village shares the island with Calheta.  Total population is 9,500.  It is the one of the youngest of the islands at 500,000 years old.

 

Velas means ‘candles’ in Portuguese, taking its name from a legend according to which candles carried by a shipwrecked vessel regularly washed up on the shore.

 

Not too far across the water one could spot Pico’s peak looming up through the clouds.  The highest point in Portugal and the youngest of the Azores at 300,000 years old when the geological process ended.  It is known for its wine production, which São Jorge is not.  [We will visit Pico later this week.]

 

There is no dangerous wildlife on São Jorge – just 55 species of birds (including the common buzzard), rabbits, mice and hedgehogs.

 

São Jorge like all the Azores is known for hydrangeas, but we were early so only a few blooms were open.  But it was full season for azaleas, Calla lilies, yellow ginger lilies, Japonica and birds of paradise which one might spot growing alongside the road, and dragon trees (outside of Africa).

 

We were awed by São Jorge’s cliffs that drop right into the sea and its many fajãs that punctuate the island’s shores.  These curious flat geological formations come from lava flows having entered the sea, landslides due to seismic shocks, or erosion.  Protected from the wind, the fajãs enjoy fertile soil and a favorable microclimate.

 

The Flemish settled this island to farm and raise cattle.  Seaweed used for ink was the largest export.  Now the economy is based on milk production.  It ranks third among the islands for dairy production.  Farming and dairy production make up 50% of Azores’ economic wealth, and the Azores supply 30% of Portugal’s milk.  As on the other islands, cows are visible everywhere you go.  There is the occasional goat and even rarer horse.

 

After a filling breakfast, we gathered in the lounge at 9 am and our bus was on its way by 9:05.  I had misread the description of the hike we were to take and had the direction all wrong.  Somehow I got it into my head that the hike was a 2+ mile downhill hike.  We thought we were lost when the bus let us off near the shore in Fajã dos Vimes.  DW even complained to the ship’s excursion rep who was with us that we did not seem to be taking the hike as described.  [We both later apologized to her after we re-read the shore excursion description…]

 

We all trooped into a tiny café, most ordering espresso and I buying a package of Chips Ahoy cookies for DW to have a snack on the trail.  People also took advantage of the potties.  We paid the owner for the cookies but it seems no one had given him money for their coffees.  The poor shopkeeper thought he was being rooked, but once our guide, Andrea, explained that this was not a perk of the tour people ponied up and made it right.

 

Our next stop was at a nearby mini coffee plantation and a weaving shop operated by two middle aged women who sat there barefooted operating a huge shuttle loom.

 

We finally began the hike on a roller coaster type hill just up from the paved roadway.  The footing was dreadful and it was a wonder we didn’t have anyone fall.  Even DW, who is fairly surefooted, was slipping and sliding on the declines.  I was very glad I had my hiking poles for extra traction.  There were probably 20 in our group and the two of us were among the last 5 – but never the last.

 

We trudged on, crossing an area of vineyard terraces and traditional cellars, dipping down to see the former house of the late maestro and composer Francisco de Lacerda, who lived in Fajã da Fragueira for 8 years after WWI, and then beginning the steep ascent towards Portal.

 

The hike continued along an old staircase composed of random sometimes overgrown rocks.  But at least it wasn’t wet underfoot.  It was up, up, up.  In the midst of this last ascent, the guide left the main pack of hikers on their own and came to the rear of the group to physically assist the last walker who was having great difficulty and who had been under the careful and watchful eye of the excursion rep.  Once they reached a flatter section, he returned to the front of the group.

 

DW checked Map My Walk and was delighted to see that we were almost at the two mile point.  We were in the home stretch and we all made it back to the bus (2.3 miles) just before the church bells rang out noon’s 12 bells.  Hooray!  We headed back to the ship and Andrea played us some of de Lacerda’s music.  Then he stopped talking and let us rest.

 

We were back to Le Bellot in time to catch the last half hour of lunch.  I had arctic char with vegetables with black sesame and lemongrass butter sauce, and raspberry sorbet.  DW had a small helping of creamy zucchini soup (not hot), pickled vegetable salad and a couple of shrimp from the buffet, and eggplant parmigiana (different but tasty).  And don’t forget a small dark chocolate cube of a confection with a tiny dollop of whipped cream and a Maraschino cherry from the dessert buffet.

 

We then walked into the town of Velas to explore a bit on our own.  We met another couple from the ship who lived in Connecticut and they assured us that the main church (Igreja Matriz de Velas) would open soon.  And it did.  We went in and found a well maintained church that DW called ‘controlled ornate’!  In front of the main altar was a special exhibit honoring the Boy Scouts.  The tabernacle was not in the main sanctuary, but in a side chapel of repose.  We sat there and prayed silently.  [The Velas Sacred Art Museum was not available to the public at this time.]

 

We continued our stroll around Velas and came to a small park with a freshly painted red and white gazebo/bandstand. Around the perimeter of the grounds were tables set up staffed by medical personnel offering a health fair. They were taking blood pressure, checking for oral cancer, offering info about mental health services, etc.  There was also a large cage holding dozens of beautifully colored parakeets.

 

We returned to the ship just before 4 pm and tea time featuring Crêpes Suzette.  This was the first time DW went to tea onboard.  We each accepted one crêpe which was heated in melted butter and Grand Marnier.  I ate mine this way.  DW opted to add caramel sauce and whipped cream.  Delicious!

 

DW stayed for the Bachata dance lesson.  There were two of them with the instructor.  [And I wasn’t one of them, no surprise!]

 

Before we knew it, it was dinner time.  It was crowded in the Nautilus and very noisy and somewhat disorganized.  All of this plus the Captain having come on the PA system a half hour before seating began, to say there had been some glitch and sailing would be delayed a while.  That turned into almost two hours.  He made another announcement during dinner and the French passengers started talking loudly as soon as the French part finished, so the Anglophones couldn’t hear any of ‘our’ announcement.  Soooo rude!

 

For dinner, I chose organic snails from St-Mamet in garlic butter croquilles, lamb duo with Rosanna carrot, spinach, rosemary honey lamb jus, and baba au rhum.  DW ordered seafood Thai consommé (which was creamier looking than a consommé but didn’t contain any seafood pieces), melon & prosciutto, shrimps (3) with artichokes and olives taggiasche, and fruit for dessert.  She tried to order coffee ice cream, but they had already run out [15 minutes into dinner? – they make you order your dessert right at the start…] and neither of us opted for the cheese buffet which was special tonight.

 

We chatted a bit with some people we met on the hike, and then moved along to the theatre for a classical concert with Ukrainian pianist Olga Myslyvets.  She played 9 popular pieces (Debussy, Schubert, Liszt, Chopin, Tchaikovsky, Grieg, and the Ukrainian composer Sylvestrov).  She played well, but really had no panache.

 

We went down to 1 and took a quick look at the Blue Eye nightclub.  There were no fish swimming by and no customers, just one lonely bartender.

 

I got another bag of free* laundry ready to go out.

 

[*Ponant’s loyalty benefits are unusually generous [this is for US customers; YMMV in other countries].  On your first cruise you get $250 pp OBC.  On your second cruise you get 50 Euro pp OBC plus unlimited laundry service, and 5% off your next bookings.  On your fourth cruise you get 100 Euro OBC, and 7.5% off your next bookings.  And so on.  Note that these benefits kick in ‘after you confirm’ each cruise level, not after you complete said cruise – very nice!]

 

01 São Jorge Island

 

02 Fajã dos Vimes

 

03 view of Pico from Fajã dos Vimes

 

04 Fajã dos Vimes

 

05 Fajã  dos Vimes

 

06 Fajã  dos Vimes

 

07 Fajã  dos Vimes

 

08 Fajã dos Vimes

 

09 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

10 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

11 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

12 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

13 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

14 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

15 Fajã da Fragueira

 

16 view of Pico from Fajã da Fragueira

 

17 Fajã da Fragueira

 

18 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

19 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

20 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

21 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

22 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

23 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

24 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

25 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

26 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

27 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

28 Hike from Fajã dos Vimes to Portal

 

29 Velas, São Jorge

 

30 Igreja Matriz de Velas

 

31 Igreja Matriz de Velas

 

32 Igreja Matriz de Velas

 

33 Igreja Matriz de Velas

 

34 Igreja Matriz de Velas

 

34 Velas, São Jorge

 

35 Velas, São Jorge

 

36 Velas, São Jorge

 

37 Health Fair, Velas, São Jorge

 

38 Velas, São Jorge

 

39 Velas, São Jorge

 

40 Velas, São Jorge

 

41 Velas, São Jorge

 

42 Velas, São Jorge

 

43 Velas, São Jorge

 

44 Império, Velas

 

45 Velas, São Jorge

 

46 Velas, São Jorge

 

47 Le Bellot in Velas, São Jorge

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Sat April 15, 2023 – Terceira Island

 

Today we had a private tour on Terceira with Catarina Fanfa from Spot Tours.  She met us at the ship and whisked us away from the eastern port of Praia da Vitória southward to Porto Martins.  She walked us out to the shore where residents congregate in the warmer months to enjoy the sheltered area paved among the volcanic rocks.  Houses in the immediate area were not the cookie cutter type of two days earlier in Santa Cruz.  Here the architecture, building materials and colors were all different.

 

Terceira has a population of 53,000 and the main industry of fishing is on the decline.  The younger generation is getting an education and taking on more professional jobs (and often moving away).

 

Our next stop was the village of São Sebastião where we first went into the church.  This church was the first building constructed after the founding of this island and the community grew up around it.  It is simple by some standards, lacking gobs of ornate gold ornamentation.  The altar of repose/tabernacle is to the right and on the side of the sanctuary.  Very old Frescoes closer to the entrance are being restored.  Our guide was very much Catholic and said most people are, even if Mass attendance does not always reflect that.  As we exited, we were immediately struck by the small colorful building across the street.  It was an imperio, a lovely, dollhouse-like chapel located in each village and neighborhood.  Each is unique in façade, decoration, and coloring – and most carefully fit the character of their neighborhood.  They are called Holy Spirit chapels. The six weeks after Easter are devoted to the Holy Spirit.

 

Check out: The Imperios of Terceira

 

Leaving São Sebastião we drove West, passing a lighthouse which is not depended on very much anymore with all the modern technology aboard ships.  [Although I recall a Captain telling us “The GPS tells me where it thinks I am.  The lighthouse tells me where I am.”]

 

We stopped to look at the concrete beach of Baia da Salga, littered with dead Man o' War jellyfish, and a historical tile plaque commemorating when the locals tried warding off the invading Spaniards.  They actually won that skirmish using their livestock and tools, oars… but eventually lost the war when Spain had Portugal and its possessions under control for 60 years.

 

We continued on and passed through Porto Judeu into Angra do Heroismo where one of the first sights we encountered was a huge sculpture of three massive black bulls near the bullfighting arena.  There is also the running of the bulls but not like in Pamplona, Spain, where the bulls run freely among the crowds of people in the streets.  In Angra one bull, controlled by a rope held by five strong men, moves through the taunting, jeering spectators.  [That sounds even worse for the bulls, who don’t get a chance to ‘get their own back.’]

 

We proceeded farther into the large city alive with business and industrial activity and visited the large mustard-colored obelisk in honor of King Pedro IV built in the 19th century.  We passed the large abandoned complex of the old hospital – now replaced by a modern, larger building somewhat out of the city center.  [It and the hospital on São Miguel island are the only major medical centers in the Azores.]  Driving down cobblestone streets is a sign of being in UNESCO protected areas.

 

Our last viewpoint in Angra was Pico das Cruzinhas at the Fortress of São João Baptista on Monte Brasil, where we saw the statue of the second king of Portugal, D. Afonso VI, with very live neighbors in the form of two well-fed peahens and a rooster.

 

Catarina then drove us back down into the city as it was just past noon and left us at Tasca da Tias for a traditional lunch of Alcatra (stewed beef with some puree of cabbage in spicy broth) served with fries and a sweet dough bread.  It was very tasty.  We shared Dona Amélia cake (almost like a gingerbread cake topped with powdered sugar).  It was supposed to have raisins – we never found any, but it was flavorful with its use of cinnamon and nutmeg.

 

After a leisurely meal we went up the street to the Sé Catedral where we paid a total of two euros admission.  It was not ornately decorated and had very little seating considering it was the See of the bishop.  It had very unusual framed Stations of the Cross.  Each seemed to have been created by a different artist; DW was not moved in a positive way.

 

We walked down to the sea and saw racing kayaks/sculls all lined up on the sand, and suddenly out came many young people in colorful vests heading for the craft and preparing to enter the water.  We supposed there was to be a race or some kind of competitive event, but we had to go to an ATM and then rendezvous with our driver.  She was waiting in a bus stop across from the town square.

 

She drove to the center of the island for Terceira’s masterpiece, a cave called Algar do Carvão.  The fog and wind were intense and we were glad to finally seek shelter inside to buy admission tickets (10 Euros each) once the exhibit opened. We had to descend (and then ascend to exit) ~150 steps to reach deep inside the beautiful cave.

 

The cave is a Natural Regional Monument and is situated in the heart of Terceira at 550m above sea level. This cave was first explored in 1893, but it was a big effort to make it accessible to the public in December 1968.

 

For a step-by-step experience, check out:

https://www.besttime2travel.com/algar-do-carvao-terceira

 

We then drove to the scenic village of Biscoitos, where the sun was shining and there was no fog.  We visited a small marketplace near the ocean’s edge and then walked down to the bathing area.  One can imagine how popular this site is in June and after.

 

Traveling on we passed a small fishing harbor in Quatro Ribeiras.  We continued back to the port of Praia da Vitória where we saw the USAF base a short distance from us, then went up to our last viewpoint, Miradouro do Facho, which had a monument honoring the Immaculate Heart of Mary.  From up there we had a panoramic view of Praia da Vitoria.

 

Next and last stop was Le Bellot.  We thanked and congratulated Catarina on a job well done.

 

We dined with a couple from Rochester, NY and Fort Lauderdale, FL [snowbirds like us].  We both had octopus carpaccio, and bass fillet with leeks fondue, potatoes and butter with capers.  DW also had the (blah) vegetarian salad and then the scrumptious chocolate and coffee tart.  I had ice cream: vanilla (very good) and chocolate (grainy).

 

We stopped inside the ship’s boutique which was finally open and looked quickly at the overpriced merchandise.  We had a nice chat with Julie from Reception who is also in charge of the shop.

 

We skipped the English-language lecture on Whale hunting in the Azores.

 

01 Terceira Island

 

02 Porto Martins, Terceira

 

03 Porto Martins

 

04 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião, Terceira

 

05 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

06 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

07 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

08 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

09 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

10 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

11 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

12 Império, Sao Sebastiao

 

13 Baia da Salga, Terceira

 

14 Baia da Salga

 

15 Baia da Salga

 

16 Baia da Salga

 

17 Baia da Salga

 

18 Monument to the Bull, Angra do Heroismo, Terceira

 

19 Monument to the Bull

 

20 Obelisk to Pedro IV, Angra do Heroismo

 

21 view of Angra do Heroismo from Obelisk

 

22 Botanical Garden, Angra do Heroismo

 

23 Monte Brasil, Angra do Heroismo

 

24 Monte Brasil

 

25 Monte Brasil

 

26 view of Angra do Heroismo from Monte Brasil

 

27 Miseracordia, Angra do Heroismo

 

28 view of Angra do Heroismo from Monte Brasil

 

29 Sé Catedral, Angra do Heroismo

 

30 Bullring, Angra do Heroismo

 

31 Centro Cultural, Angra do Heroismo

 

32 Afonso VI, Angra do Heroismo

 

33 view from Monte Brasil

 

34 Sé Catedral, Angra do Heroismo

 

35 Sé Catedral

 

36 Sé Catedral

 

37 Sé Catedral

 

38 Sé Catedral

 

39 Sé Catedral

 

40 Sé Catedral

 

41 Angra do Heroismo

 

42 Angra do Heroismo

 

43 Angra do Heroismo

 

44 Angra do Heroismo

 

45 Angra do Heroismo

 

46 Prainha, Angra do Heroismo

 

47 Prainha

 

48 Praça, Angra do Heroismo

 

49 Algar do Carvao, Terceira

 

50 Algar do Carvao

 

51 Algar do Carvao

 

52 Algar do Carvao

 

53 Algar do Carvao

 

54 Algar do Carvao

 

55 Algar do Carvao

 

56 Biscoitos, Terceira

 

57 Biscoitos

 

58 Biscoitos

 

59 Miradouro dos Moinhos, Terceira

 

60 Miradouro dos Moinhos

 

61 Miradouro do Facho, Terceira

 

62 Miradouro do Facho

 

63 Miradouro do Facho

[Host Jazzbeau]

Sun April 16, 2023 – Pico Island

 

We anchored off São Roque on the island of Pico.  [We were supposed to be anchored at Lajes do Pico on the other side of the island, but the waves there were too strong for tendering.  Then we were told we would be docked at São Roque.  But in the end we were anchored there.]

 

About three busloads worth of passengers got packed onto a tender to bring us the short distance to the pier where the coaches were waiting.  We were taking the ship’s Panoramic Tour.  Our guide was Paul from Le Bellot.  At times he would lapse into French and we would call out, “en Anglais.”  He also tended to repeat himself.

 

Pico has the tallest peak in all of Portugal, with elevation of over 7,700 ft.  This mountain and the numerous black lava flows in different parts of the island make Pico the most distinctive of all the islands in the archipelago.  It is the newest being only 300,000 years old and it is the second largest with an area of 447 square kilometers.  Its population is 14,000.  There is only one hotel in Pico, so tourists often have to rent houses.  [Luckily we had our cabin onboard!]

 

Pico, Faial and São Jorge make up a triangle of islands in the middle of the archipelago – and you can see Pico from the other two.

 

Pico island has three municipalities: Madalena, São Roque and Lajes do Pico.  In its early days it was difficult to settle because of all the ash and basalt, from which it got dubbed the Black Island, and earthquakes and erupting volcanoes.

 

It has lots of vegetation and is known for its vineyards with their basalt and narrow walled fields.  It has been classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 2004.  One famous vineyard was dubbed ‘Czar’ as its wine was for the Tsar of Russia; very expensive.  Another produces an aperitif.

 

The houses are often two story with the first floor dedicated to housing wine and the upper one for living space.  Aside from winemaking, fishing and dairy production contribute greatly to their economy.

 

Early on we passed through Mistérios.  Formed by volcanic activity, the local people gave it its name which means mysteries (of nature), as they saw rivers of fire coming out of the earth for no apparent reason, destroying their belongings.

 

We stopped and got out in Cachorro where we got up close to the volcanic formations, one being the dog rock.  We were able to take special spectator pathways down among the rocks near the sea.  In one section the water pushed into a hole and would roar occasionally (like Thunder Hole in Acadia, Maine).  The houses were often built of dark basalt stone but trimmed in shocking orange shutters and woodwork.  Hydrangeas and cacti coexisted in the same front yard.

 

We saw a tiny roadside shrine where roads intersected, with the sign "Our Lady of the Good Way, guide us to a good destination."  Amen!

 

Next we drove through Madalena with its big arena and ferry terminal.  As we got to the edge of town, our driver backed the bus down a long narrow lane and we walked toward the sea passing the unusual Criação Velha vineyards.  We saw a few swirled volcanic stones in the border walls and gladiola volunteers growing in one of the vineyard plots.  Banana plants and dragon trees grew in nearby gardens.  An elevated red Flemish windmill rose out of the fields and some of our crowd climbed the stairs to take photos.

 

There was so much fog that we never got to see Pico’s peak this morning.  We next drove to Lajes do Pico, a small Portuguese town with fewer than 5,000 inhabitants nestling on the southern coast [where we were originally scheduled to anchor].  Colorful little houses and superb landscapes bear rich history linked to the whaling period which made its reputation.

 

Our visit to the highlight of this town – the Whalers’ Museum – was cut short because we had lost time at the earlier stops.  We were disappointed to have only 20 minutes instead of the promised 40, so we could not see the movie or visit the houses or blacksmith workshop.

 

The museum is composed of a set of three whaling houses dating from the 19th century.  The industry itself dates back to the 18th century when American whalers came hunting sperm whales.  They hunted sperm whales because they floated and could be towed back to port.  It became an important activity where workers produced whale flour and oils.

 

Opened in 1988, the museum is unique in Europe.  Its permanent exhibit offers a typical example of an Azorean whaling boat, harpoons, a blacksmith’s workshop and the Maritime Museum of Shipbuilding.  It has a remarkable collection of scrimshaw—not just the odd carved tooth or piece of jewelry but many large pieces with the faces of whalers and what their lives were like; also carvings of small buildings, tables, wine decanters and goblets all carved from ivory.

 

We got back on the bus and passed the main church with its two steeples built in the 19th century.  As we headed uphill to Lagoa do Capitao (Captain’s Lake), the fog encompassed us and it began raining steadily.  When we reached the lake, at least we could look out the windows for a view but only a few brave souls got out to take photos.  After beginning our descent, the weather began to improve.

 

Paul spoke to us about education on the island.  Those who wish to go to the university must leave for São Miguel.  Others who prefer to learn a trade or profession can often remain on Pico to study agriculture, cattle/meat production, also dairy, hotel management.  They attend classes for nine months and then do practicum for three.  Young people must remain in school until their 18th birthday.  They are not permitted to hold a job before then.  University tuition is around 800 Euros/year.  If the student can’t afford that, the state decides if they will subsidize.

 

We were back on board at 1 pm.  We headed down and sat with a U.S. couple who had gone whale watching (they saw 3) for lunch.  DW had salad/chicken, a bit of cheese/bread and 2 spring rolls, then chocolate pudding tart.  I had some cheese, adobo pork with basmati rice, the tart and a sort of blueberry cheesecake.  We overstayed chatting till 2:30.

 

DW poked around the ship spending time in the photo gallery.  I then went up and ordered the DVD of the trip’s photos, and at 6:45 I went to the presentation about disembarkation.  [The photographers were completely unobtrusive, and I was pleased to see that they had captured some of the excursions we took – maybe they were on the Francophone versions at a different time.  Some of their photos may have quietly snuck in among mine...]

 

We ate dinner again in the Nautilus with our pals from Rochester/Fort Lauderdale.  It was the Farewell Dinner so people dressed up, and it was again a choice between classic and vegetarian fixed menus.  From the classic, we had: amuse-bouche of chilled pea soup with mint and almond milk emulsion, 'foie gras' [I said it was paté, but it was good] with brioche and apple chutney, sea bream filet with carrots, asparagus and orange and ginger reduction, duck breast with polenta gratin and citrus condiments, and exotic pavlova followed by pineapple marshmallow and lemon madeleines.

 

We skipped the production show Mademoiselle de Paris, because DW needed to go to the boutique to use up the rest of our OBC.  She bought a pair of pants to use on future cruises.  [Never leave money on the table...]

 

01 Pico Island

 

02 Cachorro, Pico

 

03 Cachorro

 

04 Cachorro

 

05 Cachorro

 

06 'Dog Rock,' Cachorro

 

07 Cachorro

 

08 Cachorro

 

09 Cachorro

 

10 Our Lady of the Good Way

 

11 Criação Velha, Pico

 

12 Criação Velha

 

13 Criação Velha

 

14 Criação Velha

 

15 Criação Velha

 

16 Criação Velha

 

17 Moinho do Frade, Criação Velha

 

18 Moinho do Frade

 

19 Moinho do Frade

 

20 Criação Velha

 

21 Criação Velha

 

22 Criação Velha

 

23 Moinho do Frade, Criação Velha

 

24 Moinho do Frade

 

25 Whalers' Museum, Lajes do Pico

 

26 Whalers' Museum

 

27 Whalers' Museum

 

28 Whalers' Museum

 

29 Whalers' Museum

 

30 Whalers' Museum

 

31 Whalers' Museum

 

32 Whalers' Museum

 

33 Whalers' Museum

 

34 Whalers' Museum

 

35 Whalers' Museum

 

36 Whalers' Museum

 

37 Whalers' Museum

 

38 Whalers' Museum

 

39 Whalers' Museum

 

40 Whalers' Museum

 

41 Whalers' Museum

 

42 Whalers' Museum

 

43 Whalers' Museum

 

44 Whalers' Museum

 

45 Whalers' Museum

 

46 Whalers' Museum

 

47 Whalers' Museum

 

48 Whalers' Museum

 

49 Whalers' Museum

 

50 Whalers' Museum

 

51 Whalers' Museum

 

52 Whalers' Museum

 

53 Whalers' Museum

 

54 Lajes do Pico

 

55 Lajes do Pico

 

56 view of Pico from Le Bellot at anchor

 

57 view of Pico from Le Bellot at anchor

 

58 view of Pico from Le Bellot at anchor

 

59 view of Pico from Le Bellot at anchor (finally clear!)

 

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Mon April 17, 2023 – São Miguel Island

 

We were back were we started, for an overnight onboard.

 

The day started out sunny but don’t let the Azores’ weather fool you.  We saw everything but snow!

 

Our old friend César (from AzoreanTours) picked us up promptly at 9 am.  He had managed to drive right into the Maritime Terminal so we didn’t have far to walk to find him.

 

Off we went trying to hit the overviews we couldn’t see a week ago because of fog.  On the way we did a return visit to Miradouro do Pico do Carvão.

 

We first stopped at Miradouro da Greta do Inferno, a favorite place of César’s – a picnic ground overlooking the famous Lagoa das Sete Cidades.  We hiked out and back for over a half hour on some dicey, eroded uphill paths to a popular viewpoint with beautiful scenery.  The only thing amiss was the sound of a bumble bee on steroids behind and over us [actually it was a drone, photographing a group].  As we left the park, many more tourists were coming in and cars were parked all along the roadway.

 

Next stop was the Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras, with a different perspective on the twin lakes.

 

We were unable to take the direct route to Vista do Rei [another famous viewpoint over Lagoa das Sete Cidades that we missed last week] because of road construction, but César knows all the roads and he took a detour that gave us an unexpected view of Caldeira Seca and then down a narrow dirt road that brought annoyed looks from hikers who had to move aside to let us past – and voila!  Vista do Rei!

 

So we checked off another top-10 site from last week and saw Lagoa das Sete Cidades from just above every available viewpoint – thanks César!  But there are 17 lakes on São Miguel, so we weren’t done yet…

 

On the drive to the eastern half of the island, we got a nice view of Ponta Delgada and Le Bellot.

 

César took us on to see Lagoa do Fogo (Lake of Fire).  It is the highest elevated lake on São Miguel island and spans nearly two miles in length and is 1.5 miles wide.  We were able to see it from two viewpoints:  Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa and Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo, enjoying two different perspectives.  The first shows why it’s called ‘Lake of Fire’ – there’s always lots of geothermal fog even on a clear day; the second shows the lake more clearly.  This lake rests within an active volcano which vents steam supplying geothermal energy to the island, reliably supplying 50% of the fuel used on São Miguel island.

 

César then drove us down steep roads to the small Salto do Cabrito geothermal processing plant (named ‘Baby Goat Jump’). Just past it, we walked on rocks in a stream and could see a small waterfall where technical climbers were taking a rest.

 

On to Miradouro de Santa Iria, which offers incredible views along the island’s entire northern stretch of coastline.  It is wild, rugged and dramatic and the straight sided, flat-topped cliffs at the sea are beautiful.

 

As rain began to fall, he got us to the Cha Porto Formosa tea plantation, the smaller of the two on São Miguel island.  He pointed out the tea plants and gave us a little history, then he arranged for us to see a short video about processing before we had a tasting of their light blend.  It reminded DW of chamomile, soothing but rather dull.  [Right next door is the huge competitor, Gorreana.  Its fields go on for acres and acres, up and down the hillsides.]

 

We continued to Miradouro do Pico do Ferro (Iron Mountain) to see Furnas Lake and the village of Furnas, where he had made a reservation for late lunch (2:30).  Furnas is a town of 1,500.  The entire area is made up of multiple geothermal springs, steam spouts, small geysers, mud pots, bubbling caldeiras, steaming fumaroles.  The lake itself is the second largest on the island.

 

We ate in Restaurante Banhos Férreos and tried limpets, the local shellfish.  They resemble mussels but were very chewy.  [I had them again later on this trip and they were less chewy, but still not as tender and flavorful as PEI mussels.]  We then shared Cozido das Furnas stew, cooked in the geothermal ground.  Not nearly so good as the Alcatra stew done in a crock for us on Terceira, but interesting in its own right with all kinds of meat, potatoes, cabbage, carrots…  Just not so flavorful!

 

César then drove us part way around the lake (which is shaped like Africa) to see Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias (Our Lady of Victory chapel), built from the volcanic rock.  It was gated and locked but one could get a glimpse of the stained glass window over the sanctuary.  There were two B&Bs nearby.

 

We proceeded to the Ermida (Chapel) de Nossa Senhora da Paz, which is about 100 steps above a miradouro, and not open.  We opted to view it from the parking area and then look down at the sights below in Villa Franca Do Campo, the island’s first capital (before Ponto Delgada took the honor).  There was a big sign: Look, Welcome, Love.

 

Our final stop was the Miradouro da Caloura.  I was very frustrated that I couldn’t get clear views of the monastery below, and DW had to rein me in from climbing over the wall on the cliff edge.  So César drove us down to the Porto da Caloura bathing/fishing area/beach to appreciate the surroundings.

 

We returned to Le Bellot at 5:30.

 

For our final dinner in Nautilus we sat with the couple from Connecticut.  I had tuna tataki, entrecôte of Irish Angus beef (from the always available menu), and pecan and milk chocolate puff.  DW had chicken Celestine consommé; then two starters: beetroot/mango/avocado with pink pepper, and crab cake with remoulade sauce; and finally a sliced fruit plate.

 

We skipped the final production show, Imagine – because it was Packing time.  Bags had to be in the hallway by 6 am.

 

01 Miradouro do Pico do Carvão, São Miguel

 

02 Miradouro da Grota do Inferno, São Miguel

 

03 Miradouro da Grota do Inferno

 

04 Miradouro da Grota do Inferno

 

05 Lagoa do Canario, São Miguel

 

06 Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras, São Miguel

 

07 Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras

 

08 Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras

 

09 Caldeira Seca, São Miguel

 

10 Miradouro da Vista do Rei, São Miguel

 

11 view of Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

 

12 Le Bellot in Ponta Delgada

 

13 Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa, São Miguel

 

14 Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa

 

15 Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo, São Miguel

 

16 Salto do Cabrito, São Miguel

 

17 Miradouro de Santa Iria, São Miguel

 

18 Cha Porto Formosa, São Miguel

 

19 Cha Porto Formosa

 

20 Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, São Miguel

 

21 Miradouro do Pico do Ferro

 

22 Miradouro do Pico do Ferro

 

23 Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias, Furnas, São Miguel

 

24 Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz, São Miguel

 

25 view of Villa Franca Do Campo, São Miguel

 

26 Miradouro da Caloura, São Miguel

 

27 Porto da Caloura, São Miguel

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Tue April 18, 2023 – Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

 

Up early as we had to vacate our cabin by 8 am.  Disembarkation day.  The party’s over.  We headed to the 3rd deck lounge for a short time and then onto the pier to collect our luggage.  Because the captain had to relocate Le Bellot to the industrial dock, it was now a more complicated departure.  Most private cabs were not allowed in so we had to take shuttles provided by Ponant out to an area where taxis could pick up passengers.

 

César had promised to come get us and he met us out there, drove us to the hotel and refused payment.  [I can’t praise César and Azorean Tours highly enough!]

 

Luckily when we checked in at 9:30 our room was already available.  DW went down and had some eggs and fruit juice in the restaurant and made a small hero sandwich of ham and cheese for us to share for lunch.  There was a bit of a protest from the host as we had not stayed last night and were entitled to breakfast tomorrow only.  She explained we had to leave at 7 in the morning just as the dining room was opening, so he let her in.

 

Today’s agenda was to explore Ponta Delgada on our own.  Our first stop was a few minutes from the hotel: Igreja de São Pedro.  Overlooking the cruise ship harbor, this white church with black trim dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries.  The simple exterior belies the gold décor of the interior.  [We returned as planned for the 7 pm evening Mass – with fewer than 20 people, and we were out by 7:17]

 

Our second stop in the morning was the town square and Portas da Cidade [town gates] where some reconstruction work was being done.  Greeting one entering the gate area is a statue of Gonçalo Velho Cabral, a Portuguese monk, explorer and Commander in the Order of Christ credited with re-discovery of the islands of Santa Maria and São Miguel.  There was an old public telephone booth now painted all white with interior shelves to house a small selection of books from the public library – to be borrowed on the honor system.

 

We visited Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião, the main church of Ponta Delgada, built in the 1500s, entering through its Manueline door.  Inside around the altar is extensive gilded wood as well as fine azulejos [Portuguese blue and white glazed tile murals].  The interior is very dark and musty smelling.  There are basically no windows but just a few very elevated slits letting in minimal light.

 

We passed by but did not enter the Baroque style City Hall building [nor did we climb its bell tower].  We moved along the waterfront past Forte de São Brás to Campo de São Francisco, one of the oldest public parks in the city, having been created in the 19th century.  It is a popular gathering area for concerts, etc.  A large modern three-figure sculpture at the front edge of the park is the Monument to the Emigrant, created in 1999 by Alvaro Raposo de Franca.

 

We went to the street bordering the back end of the park, and despite major reconstruction work we were able to enter the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança.  This convent, founded in the 16th century, is home to the Christ of the Miracles statue which attracts crowds of pilgrims on the feast day of Santo Cristo, including many emigrants who return here for the occasion.  The Baroque-style abbey church houses a fine gilded altarpiece and 18th century azulejos by Antonio de Oliveira Bernardes.  It is only open to the public a couple of hours a day.  Outside is the statue of a nun, the Venerable Theresa of the Annunciation.

 

For more about the Cult of Christ of the Miracles, see:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cult_of_the_Lord_Holy_Christ_of_the_Miracles

 

Diagonally across the park from the convent is Igreja de São Jose (St. Joseph).  Dating back to 1709, it was the church for the convent of San Francisco.  It is one of the largest churches in the Azores with three naves and three chapels.  The simple exterior is misleading.  The interior has an altar with gilded wood carvings, painted arches, and azulejos.  It contains 17th and 18th century Hispanic-Mexican paintings, sculptured statues and rosewood furniture.  The vaulted ceiling is painted with figures… in earth tones so that you almost miss it.  Look up!

 

We continued walking through the neighborhood and noticed high school students out on their lunch break sitting in a small park.  We visited a small inviting garden in honor of Antero de Quental, a peaceful man devoted to poetry, philosophy and politics.  After he was attacked for instigating an intellectual revolution, he responded by publishing “Good Sense and Good Taste.”

 

We walked past the Municipal Library and Regional Archive.  One of our shipmates was going there to do genealogical research on his wife’s family, who are from the Azores.

 

Our last big stop was the three-building Museu Carlos Machado.  This Azorean Museum was created by him in 1888.  It is the oldest and most important in these islands.  The natural history collections include zoology, botany, geology and mineralogy – and a fascination with two-headed animals!

 

https://museucarlosmachado.azores.gov.pt/en/omuseu

 

The second part of the museum is in an old convent of the Poor Clares (affiliated with St. Francis of Assisi) showing their way of life.  Down the road the third part is the Sacred Art collection located in the Church of the Jesuit College.  Dating from the 1500s, it has intricate wood with gilt carvings at the rear of the sanctuary and four side chapels dedicated to the four evangelists.  There are two side altars.  And there are sections of tiles for artistic decoration.  [Uniting the Franciscans and the Jesuits – something that was rare until Pope Francis accomplished it in his person!]

 

As it was nearly 3 pm, we decided to head back to the hotel to have a bite to eat and rest and regroup.

 

We went to the 7 pm Mass at São Pedro and then walked to Michel Restaurant in the neighborhood for our 8 pm reservation.  [As with last week, every table was taken or reserved.]  We each started with a large mixed green house salad, chock full of walnuts and seeds and grape tomatoes.  I had ordered a house specialty (a casserole filled with fish and seafood in a creamy broth in a puff pastry) but they ran out.  Instead I had tuna which was the best I’ve ever eaten [not overcooked like that at the hotel bar a week ago].  DW was not disappointed with her ample portion of very tender baked octopus with sweet potato.  Too full for the luscious looking desserts, but we could not refuse the complimentary after dinner cordials the waitress delivered.  [I got to drink both, of course.]

 

We took our time walking back to the Grand Hotel, noticing the art work in the sidewalks.  All nautical themes—anchors, sailboats, crabs, life preservers…

 

01 Igreja de São Pedro, Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

 

02 Igreja de São Pedro

 

03 Igreja de São Pedro

 

04 Igreja de São Pedro

 

05 Le Bellot in Ponta Delgada

 

06 Portas da Cidade, Ponta Delgada

 

07 Public Library 'branch', Ponta Delgada

 

08 Public Library 'branch'

 

09 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião, Ponta Delgada

 

10 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

11 Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

 

12 Ponta Delgada City Hall

 

13 Forte de São Brás, Ponta Delgada

 

14 Monument to the Emigrant, Ponta Delgada

 

15 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança, Ponta Delgada

 

16 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança

 

17 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança

 

18 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança

 

19 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança

 

20 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança

 

21 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança

 

22 Convent of Nossa Senhora da Espenança

 

23 Igreja de São Jose, Ponta Delgada

 

24 Igreja de São Jose

 

25 Igreja de São Jose

 

26 Igreja de São Jose

 

27 Jardim Antero de Quental, Ponta Delgada

 

28 Jardim Antero de Quental

 

29 Museu Carlos Machado, Ponta Delgada

 

30 Museu Carlos Machado

 

31 Museu Carlos Machado

 

32 Museu Carlos Machado

 

33 Museu Carlos Machado

 

34 Museu Carlos Machado

 

35 Museu Carlos Machado

 

36 Museu Carlos Machado

 

37 Museu Carlos Machado

 

38 Museu Carlos Machado

 

39 Museu Carlos Machado

 

40 Museu Carlos Machado

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Wed April 19, 2023 – Next Stop: Funchal, Madeira

 

César (from AzoreanTours) came to pick us up around 7 am [no time for breakfast!] for our early flight to Funchal, Madeira.  He had us to the airport in no time.  We checked in and went through security without a hitch.  Finding a coffee shop, we shared a ham and cheese croissant and got a bottle of water.

 

Our SATA flight was somewhat delayed and it was a full plane.  A turbo prop (Q400 DASH 8), the plane was not too noisy.  We both dozed a bit and then were surprised to receive a box with a small sandwich, cookie, biscuits and nuts plus a drink.  Before long we were landing.  Flying time was only an hour and 45 minutes.  Our bags were among the last off but our driver was waiting.  It was a local taxi arranged by our hotel.

 

We were greeted at the desk of the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel with some good, sweet Madeira wine for me and an offer of water for DW.  As our room was not ready yet (it was only 12:30), they took charge of our bags and after the clerk took time to go over the city map and Yellow (HOHO) bus route with us we headed out.

 

When we had arrived at the airport, the sun was out and the temperature was significantly warmer than that of the Azores.  However, by the time we walked downhill to explore a bit, it was quite overcast and felt chillier.

 

We made our way to the Marina Shopping Mall to watch the Madeira Film Experience.  We were late for the 1 pm showing, but no one had showed up for it so the attendant gave us a private showing at the regular price [5 Euros each].

 

We walked across the street and there was a queue of taxis.  We told the first driver we wanted to go to Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro (Palheiro Gardens).  It was about a 20-minute drive up incredibly steep, winding hills.  [San Francisco, CA has nothing on Funchal.  We saw some streets where the grade of elevation was so steep we wondered how cars could even go up or down without falling off]  Upon arriving at the gate, the cabbie charged us 14 Euros and offered to wait an hour for another 10. We thanked him but sent him on his way as we thought we would stay longer than that.

 

We noticed bus stops on both sides of the street, but the listing of times for the bus at the entry booth showed that there was one due any minute and the next – and last – one was not for another 2 1/2 hours [just after the garden closes, presumably to take the workers home].  We hoped we would find a taxi when we left…

 

Formerly the estate of the Count of Carvalhal, now owned by the Blandy family [owners of the biggest Madeira wine establishment], the gardens include acres of land with different flower beds and garden arrangements.  The big attraction is camellias, but we are pretty much at the end of the season for them.  However, there were many of those bushes and we did get to see some pretty blossoms in reds, pinks and some variegated, too.

 

There was a small chapel but we couldn’t go in because two workmen seemed to be totally redoing the interior.  When we stopped outside its open doors to look in, we met a British couple and had a friendly encounter.  They were leaving the gardens and we had only begun.  We took about an hour and a half enjoying the flowers in this steep terrain.  There were species we were familiar with like day lilies, azaleas, iris, heliotrope, delphinium, wisteria, roses, camellias… and there were some that looked much more exotic than what we might have in our garden.  What amazed us was that they were all blooming at the same time!

 

When we were ready to leave, we walked out of the gates and there was a cab across the street.  We did not want to wait for over an hour till the bus came so we hopped in and he dropped us right to our hotel for 17 Euros.  Our bags were up in our very spacious balcony room.  [Since we would be here for six nights I had booked a Deluxe Premium Room.]  We unpacked just about everything, showered and got ready for dinner.

 

But first, we stopped at the lobby bar for free drinks and hors d’oeuvres.  One of the amenities of the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel is some sort of happy hour or entertainment every Wednesday through Saturday night.  I had a glass of Madeira [drier, not my favorite] and DW had mango juice.  A waiter came around with hot hors d’oeuvres while we watched part of a Turkish soccer match on TV.

 

We walked back down the hill to Praça do Município and there was a taxi parked with his green light on so we asked if he would take us to Dona Amélia restaurant and off we went.  Only 5.50 Euros!

 

Our table was waiting up on the second floor, where all their diners seemed to be.  Nice view of the water and it was sunny even at 8 pm!  We each had squash soup with scallop.  Yes, scallop [full stop].  It was a large bowl of hot butternut (?) squash soup with a single sea scallop in the middle.  The soup was rather dull so we both added salt and pepper (which we never do) and broke up the scallop into tiny pieces to make it go further.  We ate it all, but it was not up there with DW’s sherried cream of pumpkin soup!

 

For dinner I got flambéed scabbard fish [a local specialty – this one was the best I had on the whole trip] with potato and mixed vegetables (carrots and green beans).  DW got a mixed green salad and an appetizer portion  of three huge shrimp (actually prawns with eyes…) in a garlic sauce.  It was all very good.

 

We did not order dessert but they gave every diner a free Portuguese custard tart.  Fresh and just enough!  The waiter called us a cab and it was there waiting when we went out.  The fare was 8 Euros.

 

We slept well.

 

01 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro, Funchal, Madeira

 

02 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro

 

03 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro

 

04 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro

 

05 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro

 

06 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro

 

07 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Thu April 20, 2023 – Nun’s Valley Tour, Madeira

 

Breakfast buffet and some items to order were included in our room rate.  The meal was served in Tipografia [the hotel restaurant] on the main floor [inside, and in its outdoor patio dining area].  When I ordered two poached eggs, the waitress asked if I meant two orders and I told her they were just for me.  Back she came with two plates of two each!  So DW ate half.  [Clean plate club, we are…]  Nicely cooked and better looking than steam table scrambled.

 

DW loved the luscious strawberries [her first on this trip] that she cut up on her cereal, and the brown bread from which people took irregular slices from near the toaster [beware those sharp knives!]  Unfortunately, the very hot water she ordered tasted as if it had been brewed in an old coffee urn.  [After this she learned to order it in a white china pot and it tasted fine.]

 

She made a hearty ham/cheese sandwich on the brown bread for us to share later for lunch, and refilled our water bottles from the hotel’s own filtered water in heavy glass bottles.  The exotic fruit juice, a blend of mango and other fruits, was delicious.

 

Back in our room (no. 306), we caught up on email, etc.  Then DW went for a walk in the neighborhood.  She headed down to the Praça do Município (city plaza), one end of which is Town Hall.  Nearby is the Courthouse.  On another side of the plaza is the Museum of Sacred Art, across from which is the Jesuit College Church.  The Jesuits owned huge wine estates on Madeira and spent some of their wealth on this ornate church, which is covered floor to ceiling in frescoes, gilded carvings and rare ceramic tiles.  The school the Jesuits built nearby is now the University of Madeira.  [It took several more tries before I could get into it, but the pictures are here to complete the spin tour of the Praça]

 

DW walked along a few local streets but it started to rain, so she headed back to the hotel.  She took the opportunity to eat half the ham/cheese sandwich and get ready for our three-hour afternoon excursion: the Nuns’ Valley Tour by Madeira Island Tours.  We walked down to the Praça, where we were to meet them, but we were early so we found an ATM to get cash for the driver.  We met him on the corner and joined a young German man who had taken the shotgun seat.  Our guide pointed out flowers and points of interest as we made three more stops picking up the rest of the passengers.

 

He pointed out trees with large orange colored blossoms called Tulip trees (from Africa) and others with haloes of vivid purple flowers (Jacaranda from Brazil).  A new one to us was a tree with white balls on it.  This was the white cotton silk tree from which pillow stuffing was made and the wood used for boats.  Also on our drive uphill, we saw the municipal garden, Santa Catarina Park, and the pink presidential house where he works but does not live (he has to pay for his own lodging).  Parliament is near the Cathedral.

 

Not everything is historic here – we drove past the Savoy Palace Hotel and three bright red Ferraris were parked out front.  [We later saw them, and several other supercars, leaving the Praça – before I could get a picture!]

 

He told us that we were passing a banana plantation but they only grew well in altitudes of under 2,000 meters.  Farmers grew different crops higher up.

 

Our first stop was Miradouro do Pico dos Barcelos, a viewpoint at 1,165 feet elevation with stunning, sweeping views of the Bay of Funchal.  It is the nearest viewpoint to Funchal.  We saw Igreja de São Martinho, the second largest after the Cathedral.  Its main door like all other island churches faces the Cathedral.  We stopped at Pico for 35 minutes to walk around, take pictures, enjoy the views.  Initially it was just breezy but by the time we reboarded the van it was starting to rain lightly.  As we drove away we could see another church with two vividly striped steeples.  This was Igreja de Santo António.

 

Our guide continued up the very steep, narrow, twisting roads.  At times, cars and buses had to pull over onto spurs to let other vehicles pass.  How comforting to have an experienced driver at the wheel.  The weather was deteriorating.  At our next stop (a short pullover), several of the non-photographers opted to remain on the bus for a few minutes.  There was very little to see in the valley below.  There were a few areas of houses clustered together nearby terraced farms.

 

Off we went to our next long stop (40 minutes) at Eira do Serrado.  It was beginning to rain more and the fog obscured most of the view.  Our guide advised us not to attempt the hiking trail in the rain.  Not having access to the hotel located there, we stayed on the top level and browsed the gift shop and had access to a bar with liquor [mostly Madeira wine], snacks and sweets.  I bought a Portuguese custard tart [Pastel de Nata] and DW got the last bite.  [I am the custard aficionado in our family]  By the time we were back in the van, it was really raining.

 

We made our way to the Curral das Freiras (Nuns’ Refuge), the hidden valley used by the nuns of Santa Clara Convent whenever pirates attacked the island.  It is a vast mountain bowl a thousand meters deep.  There was no access other than a footpath until the 1960s when a road wide enough to accommodate cars, buses and a tunnel were built to link the town to the outside world.  It now has a population of 2,000.  It has a sports complex and pool, but there are not enough children to warrant its own elementary school so they are bussed into Funchal.

 

The weather started to clear as we carefully walked down to the Igreja Matrix church.  The patron saint is Senhora do Livramento – Our Lady of Deliverance – but the churches on these islands don’t seem to be called after their patron saint.  They do revere her though: on the last Sunday of August, the parishioners have a street procession in her honor.  The church was more simple in its gold decorations, and orchids from nearby woods (?) adorned the altars.  We spent some time in the church and then browsed the shelves of the major souvenir shop to kill time.

 

This was our last official stop (around a half hour) but our guide continued to point out buildings and flora as we finished our descent into Funchal.  Eucalyptus trees have become an invasive pest.  Yes, they repel mosquitoes and can help in drying up swamps, but they burn easily and can encourage spreading forest fires.  They live alongside yellow blossomed Mimosa trees originally from Australia.

 

Back in 1430, sugar cane was brought in from Sicily and took over farming.  Madeira became the number one exporter of sugar to Europe, but that changed when the Caribbean was discovered and those islands surpassed Madeira in production.

 

Before we knew it, we were being dropped off where we first got on.  We returned to the hotel to regroup and then headed out to the Praça and then on to the Funchal Cathedral with its over-the-top gold décor.  The outside is simple but the interior is lined with statues, paintings and gold-covered chapels.  The ceiling is comprised of spectacular knot work inspired by Moorish geometry.  And set in the floor are the tombs of early bishops and sugar merchants.  Begun in 1493, it was finished in 1517.  Outside is a statue of John Paul II.

 

The cathedral is at one end of Av. Arriaga, a wide tree-filled avenue.  Going the other way, our last spot of interest before dinner was Bordal Embroidery, a second story factory and store for handmade embroidery pieces including small handkerchiefs, linens, baby clothes and quilts.  The sales clerk was welcoming and tried getting our interest but we were really looking as if we were at a museum.  Beautiful work but so impractical!

 

With the help of my phone we found our way to Zona Velha (Old Town), the site of lively bars and cafes.  It is a rejuvenated destination.  Early in the 19th century, it was an industrial center.  Allowed to fall into disrepair and for many years neglected, the maze of narrow streets once again forms a vibrant social hub.

 

One of the noticeable improvements is the Art of Open Doors.  An example of street art going in the right direction, local artists have painted many of the neighborhood doors, producing art ranging from quirky cartoon murals and portraits to abstract designs.  There are also sculptures.

 

We finally found our way to Gaviao Novo for dinner.  A little early for our 7:00 reservation, we were seated inside next to a British couple with whom we struck up a conversation.  We enjoyed our dinners.  I had grilled mussels (steaming seems to make them more tender) and salmonetta (NOT salmonella) fish which the waiter sort of  filleted.  DW had a salad with greens, tomatoes and fruits with a light balsamic dressing, and grilled scabbard fish.  Boiled white potatoes and carrots, Italian flat beans, and zucchini were present in two bowls for family style dining.  We did not get dessert.  Shortly before we were ready to leave a group of about 10 minstrels came along and sang and danced in the street outside the door of Gaviao Novo.  One opened up a ukulele case and people contributed money.

 

A crowd gathered and everyone seemed to be enjoying the cheerful, musical atmosphere.  We bid farewell to our Brits and headed down a narrow side alley in search of gelato.  There were a couple of small stands along a main drag and we each ordered one scoop cups.  DW got coffee/café, of course, and I caramel.  We took our time eating our dessert as we strolled back to hotel.  It was an easy walk not involving killer hills and we window shopped as we made our way.

 

01 Praça do Município, Funchal, Madeira

 

02 Town Hall, Funchal

 

03 Courthouse, Funchal

 

04 Museum of Sacred Art, Funchal

 

05 Jesuit College Church, Funchal

 

06 Jesuit College Church

 

07 Jesuit College Church

 

08 Miradouro do Pico dos Barcelos, Madeira

 

09 Miradouro do Pico dos Barcelos

 

10 Igreja de São Martinho, Funchal

 

11 Igreja de Santo António, Madeira

 

12 Miradouro do Pico dos Barcelos

 

13 Miradouro Eira do Serrado, Madeira

 

14 Miradouro Eira do Serrado

 

15 Miradouro Eira do Serrado

 

16 view of Curral das Freiras, Madeira

 

17 Curral das Freiras, Madeira

 

18 Paróquia do Curral das Freiras

 

19 Paróquia do Curral das Freiras

 

20 Curral das Freiras

 

21 Curral das Freiras

 

22 Funchal Cathedral, Madeira

 

23 Funchal Cathedral

 

24 John Paul II, Funchal

 

25 Av. Arriaga, Funchal

 

26 Bordal Embroidery, Funchal

 

27 Mercado dos Lavradores, Funchal

 

28 Gavião Novo, Funchal

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Fri April 21, 2023 – East Island Tour, Madeira

 

Breakfast was served only indoors this morning at Tipografia as it was a wet day.  At 7:30 am the dining room was hopping.

 

We left the hotel at 9 and walked down to the Praça to meet our tour from Madeira Island Tours.  Today we were the last passengers picked up by a different driver, Reuben.  There were ten of us, but I was able to get the shotgun seat.

 

We were to explore the eastern part of Madeira.  Reuben explained that because of the rainy, overcast weather, he planned on doing the route in reverse order.  He knew from his associates that the summit of Pico do Arieiro was totally socked in.

 

We headed east towards the tip of the island, Ponta de São Lourenço.  We passed by Santa Antonio where the national soccer hero, Cristiano Ronaldo, was born.

 

It took about 45 minutes to reach our first scenic overlook, Miradouro do Pico do Facho.  It was raining very hard.  Two young women were the only ones brave enough to get out for photos.

 

We moved on to where white rum was made at the Engenhos do Norte Distillery in Porto da Cruz.  The rain stopped for a while so we went inside to see the sugar cane being processed by big machines with the help of strong workers.  There was no tour offered.  We were told there would be free samples but they weren’t forthcoming.  They do make a special drink with the white rum, lemon and orange juice and honey, called Poncha.  Sugar cane is only important in Madeira for making white rum and molasses.  The waste from the cane is used as an organic fertilizer or to feed cows.

 

As it was fairly dry outside, we walked along the road and got caught up watching adult students learning how to surf.  We were glad we were up top observing as they kept getting wiped out.

 

We returned to the van just as the rain began again.  We passed the occasional old fashioned scarecrow and crops growing on steeply vertical terraces.  When we got to the next viewpoint, Miradouro do Guindaste, there was light rain.  We walked out onto the glass-floored decks, being warned not to jump or bounce.

 

The morning was almost over and we were on our way to our long lunch break in Santana (Santa Ana, Saint Ann).  It was fogged in for most of the ride up.  We did pass a small roadside shrine.  Once there, Reuben pointed out several restaurants and recommended ordering meat rather than fish since we were not on the coast.  We went to Colmo and were the first seated in the dining room which filled in quickly, but our waitress, Fatima, was quite adept at taking all the orders and was assisted in serving by several backup waiters.

 

DW ordered roast chicken leg(s) and I had the special skewered beef, flavored with chopped bay leaf and salt crystals.  We received a bowl of basic salad of lettuce, tomato and onion (even though we asked for “no onion”) and another bowl with French fries and fried polenta cubes.

 

After the meal, we had time to walk around town a bit and take photos of the small A frame houses with thatched roofs [most were not original and seemed Disneyesque having souvenir stands inside].  We spotted a couple along the road that had tile roofs replacing the original thatch.  We walked down to the church, Our Lady of the Nativity, and indeed there was a statue of St. Ann.

 

It was almost 1:30 and time to move along.  Reuben had driven us through several tunnels and it seems that in 2015, the Guinness Book of World Records declared Madeira to be the #1 island in the world with the most drivable tunnels.  One hundred fifty plus!  As we exited one on our way out of Santana, we passed over some kind of motor raceway below.

 

We continued gaining altitude and stopped next in Ribeiro Frio, which is famous for its trout farm and the beginning of the Levada do Furado.  In Madeira, the levadas originated out of the necessity of bringing large amounts of water from the west and northwest of the island to the drier southeast, which is more conducive to habitation and agriculture, such as sugar cane production.  They were used in the past also by women to wash clothes in areas where running water to homes was not available.  Today they also provide hydroelectric power.  There are more than 1,350 miles of levadas and they provide a remarkable network of walking paths.

 

The two of us walked a very short distance on this path and returned to the beginning to explore the levada, taking photos of its small waterfall and weirs.

 

Reuben drove us higher up and we passed through Laurissilva, the laurel forest.  The sun actually came out for a few minutes.  We arrived at our destination of Pico do Arieiro and were greeted by sunny, clear skies but lots of wind.  We got great views including of Nuns’ Valley, which was obscured most of the time on yesterday’s tour.  Next to the highest observation point was a fenced in area with a white dome for the weather radar.  Pico do Arieiro is the third tallest mountain on Madeira, at 6,000 feet.  Next to the run-of-the-mill souvenir store was a special exhibit by the Petrel Centre Dr. Rui Silva about the once-thought extinct bird.

 

Beginning our descent down the mountain our last stop was Miradouro do Terreiro da Luta, an overview of Camacha, which used to have a basket factory (closed since Covid).  We could also see Funchal in the distance, including ‘our’ ship Le Bellot which was now making its way to Lisbon, and in the far distance were the Ilhas Desertas (deserted islands) which only allow certain permit granted excursions.  Just above the viewpoint we could see the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Peace (covered in scaffolding).

 

Heading down to Funchal we passed through a heavily wooded area which had been devastated by a wild fire in 2015.  Because it is home to eucalyptus and cashew trees, they regenerate quickly and one would never know the severe damage imposed on this area.

 

Surprisingly we were the first dropped off, around 4:30.

 

Taking showers and dressing up a bit, I told DW that we had a surprise: a special ride to a nice restaurant for dinner.  It was in a 1932 Austin 12 roadster!  Did we ever get stares and waves…  Paolo, our driver, took us on a little extra tour of the market area and the old town before driving us to what had been the fort.  That was the location of the restaurant, Do Forte.

 

As usual we ate inside, away from open doors and windows.  We had a very pleasant evening and enjoyed celebrating our 49th anniversary a little early.  I had a seafood trilogy (scallop, mussel, shrimp) on risotto negro and DW had ratatouille.  Then I had tournedos of beef with foie gras, and DW rack of lamb.  Too full for dessert, we had them call us a taxi for the return trip as Paolo was out driving someone else.

 

[As this was a special early treat for our anniversary, I thought the Austin pickup service would be very romantic (and it was) but couldn’t find the cost on the restaurant website or via email enquiries – it turned out to be only 20 Euro, and worth every penny!]

 

01 Engenhos do Norte Distillery, Porto da Cruz, Madeira

 

02 Engenhos do Norte Distillery

 

03 Engenhos do Norte Distillery

 

04 Engenhos do Norte Distillery

 

05 Porto da Cruz

 

06 Porto da Cruz

 

07 Miradouro do Guindaste

 

08 Miradouro do Guindaste

 

09 Miradouro do Guindaste

 

10 A Frame Houses, Santana

 

11 A Frame Houses

 

12 A Frame Houses

 

13 Igreja de Santana

 

14 Igreja de Santana

 

15 Chapel of Ribeiro Frio

 

16 Levada do Furado, Ribeiro Frio

 

17 Levada do Furado

 

18 Levada do Furado

 

19 Pico do Arieiro

 

20 Pico do Arieiro

 

21 Nun's Valley from Pico do Arieiro

 

22 view of Camacha from Terreiro da Luta

 

23 view of Camacha from Terreiro da Luta

 

24 Le Bellot in Funchal from Terreiro da Luta

 

25 view of Ilhas Desertas from Terreiro da Luta

 

26 Our Lady of Peace, Terreiro da Luta

 

27 Restaurante do Forte Austin 12, Funchal

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Sat April 22, 2023 – Funchal, Madeira

 

After breakfast we walked over to Blandy’s Wine Lodge only to find that the 10:30 tour was fully booked.  So we went to the tasting room where for 9 Euros, I had two generous pourings of a 10 year old semi-sweet Madeira wine and a 15 year old.  I preferred the 10 as it was sweeter and fruitier [the extra time aging had, well, aged the older wine…]  DW had a sip of water.  [Cheap date, as always!]

 

Off we went past the Municipal Garden to take a look at Igreja de São Pedro (St. Peter’s) only to find a baptism was about to begin and the priest seemed to have a lot to say to those gathered.  The baby was very quiet.  [So was I, as I snapped a few pictures.]

 

Leaving there we turned the corner and stumbled upon the English Church, the Anglican parish of Holy Trinity.  The building had just been refurbished last summer in record breaking time and services were held outdoors during those few months, so said the vicar who saw us walking about the grounds and called out to us.  He then invited us to their weekly Saturday coffee on the porch of the manse.  [Thanks, but no thanks]  Professionally made signs were evident on the lawn promoting concerts they were sponsoring.

 

Exiting their property we went right heading uphill.  It was so steep the sidewalk was a concrete staircase.  DW always opts against staircases when possible and walked in the street (a dead end) to reach the top.  A little farther and we made it to the Miradouro das Cruzes overlook of Funchal and the bay, with the Ilhas Desertas in the background.

 

We moved along and soon found our destination, Museu Quinta das Cruzes.  The two of us got the senior rate and paid a total of 3 Euros for admission.  First, we found ourselves at a freestanding chapel and could only enter through the choir loft which gave us a good view.  Next we looked around the garden and then entered the museum.

 

This classified building (1947) represents an urban property composed of an old manor house, a chapel and the gardens.  There is not much left from the original house, of which the oldest elements are two lintel windows in Manueline design being displayed in the garden, as this complex went through several changes throughout the centuries.  The main building of the manor house was only added after the earthquake in 1748.

 

After the heirs of this Quinta had sold the building to the baron of Jardim do Mar, it was used as a boarding house, embroidery house, doctor’s practice and place of residence.  The exhibits of the museum, really heterogeneous, are a comprehensive display of decorative arts and their influence on the island from the 17th to the 19th centuries.  The highlights are the furniture, mainly English, the collections of Chinese porcelain, silver, jewelry, ceramics, goldsmith art as well as paintings, drawings, prints and sculptures.

 

Exiting the museum we began our descent to revisit Sao Pedro.  We noticed another church on the way but it was closed.  Upon looking more closely to a posted sign, we found it was the Convent of Santa Clara and was undergoing renovation.  We reached St. Peter’s and found it locked, and remembered that it would be after noon on Saturday.  [Good thing I had snapped some pictures from the back during the Baptism!]

 

We headed back to our neighborhood and climbed the steps to the Jesuit College Church only to find it locked.  No signs were in evidence so upon returning to the Castanheiro, we inquired at the desk and were told it was only open to the public M-F.  They also called for us and learned that the Quinta da Boa Vista, a subtropical garden with an abundance of orchids, was also closed.  [I had researched these places, but things change…]

 

We had a light lunch in our room and then walked down to the seafront to buy tickets for the Yellow Bus (Hop On Hop Off) to take us to the west side of the island.  We had to wait for the 2 pm bus.  Since it was the first stop we had almost any seat on the upper (open) deck to choose from.  Although it was in the high 60s, there wasn’t a hint of sunshine and it was a nippy, breezy ride.

 

We passed the marina, picked up quite a few passengers near the Varadouros Old Gate, saw the monuments to the Empresario Madeirense [Madeiran Businessman] and Alusivo AO 58º Aniversario DA Forca Aerea [Air Force] passed under the Cable Cars going up to Monte [in dense fog – confirming why we didn’t do that today], into the Old Town with its colorful buildings and part way up the hill in front of the market, City Hall, Cathedral, Municipal Garden, Rotunda do Infante, Casino da Madeira, Savoy Palace Hotel, Estádio do Marítimo with view of Funchal [and our dearly beloved ship Hebridean Sky in for a visit], the only military base on Madeira (with a Monument to the Madeiran Combatant in the Overseas), before stopping higher up at a couple of viewpoints.  [Because the buses didn’t run very often, we were afraid to get off because we had a lot of ground to cover after our late start.]

 

We saw Igreja de São Martinho [St. Martin’s] and its cemetery, and the modern Paróquia de Santa Cecília church.  Around the Pico dos Barcelos viewpoint we saw lots of banana plantations, but the view was fogged in today.  

 

Our major terminus was Câmara de Lobos where we disembarked to explore the village with its colorful fishing boats, lighthouse, and a statue of Winston Churchill (who came here to paint).

 

Then we took a smaller sightseeing shuttle bus on a 20-minute ride to Cabo Girão.  It is Madeira’s highest sea cliff (589m) and the second highest in the world.  From the glass-floored viewing platform, you gaze down, down, down to a fajã, a rock platform created when the cliff face fell into the sea millennia ago.  Local farmers cultivate crops here in neat terraces.  We had 25 minutes to explore but 15 would have been more than enough as once the view has been seen, there is little remaining to do—another souvenir shop, a café, and pay toilets.

 

There were only 4 of us on the return trip and as we were driving down, the driver saw two women walking in the street – tourists who waited for a public bus that never came.  He told them to get in and he’d take them back with us to Câmara de Lobos where there were taxis and buses [he wouldn’t take any money from them].

 

Dropping all of us off in Câmara de Lobos, he reminded us that the next HOHO bus to Funchal was not for 35 minutes, at 5:20.  We walked out to Paróquia de Câmara de Lobos, a church we’d seen when he drove us out of town heading toward Cabo Girão.  The church was packed with people and a disembodied voice was talking to them.  There was no sign of a priest.  We walked past the building and explored the nicely developed area behind it.  Upon returning to the church, we saw a priest and altar servers in the midst of Mass in the sanctuary.

 

We returned to the bus stop where two big tourist coaches were getting ready to move on.  Our bus arrived but was hidden behind the bigger ones.  The young couple who had continued on to Cabo Girão with us let us know it was in.  [We had offered to let them ahead of us on that ride, so one good deed…]

 

On the way back into Funchal, we passed a variety of hotels, beaches, promenades.  He let us off at the old city gates and we made our way back up to our hotel.  It was well past 6 pm.

 

For dinner, we walked to the Old Town and down Rua de Santa Maria to Tasca Literaria Dona Joana Rabo-de-Peixe where we had an 8 pm reservation.  We shared a huge mixed grill of fish and seafood (limpets, mussels, squid, octopus, langoustines, clams, scabbard fish, etc.) along with a large bowl of salad fixings (lettuce, tomatoes, red and green pepper slices, shredded carrots, cucumbers, beets) and French fries.  As we were finishing, the French couple next to us was about to leave and she addressed us in broken English.  We carried on a conversation in French and English.  They departed and I ordered a slice of the Portuguese custard tart.  I was disappointed with the dessert – it had been refrigerated and wasn’t warm and fresh like I’m used to [even with the ones we buy frozen at Trader Joe’s].

 

We started back to the hotel and halfway there spotted a gelateria so we stopped and I got DW a cup of coffee gelato and a salted caramel for myself.  Nice treat as we walked back.

 

01 Blandy's WIne Lodge, Funchal

 

02 Blandy's Tasting Room

 

03 Igreja de São Pedro, Funchal

 

04 Igreja de São Pedro

 

05 English Church, Funchal

 

06 English Church

 

07 Miradouro das Cruzes, Funchal

 

08 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes, Funchal

 

09 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes

 

10 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes

 

11 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes

 

12 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes

 

13 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes

 

14 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes

 

15 Museu da Quinta das Cruzes

 

16 HOHO Bus, Funchal

 

17 Varadouros Old Gate, Funchal

 

18 Monumento ao Empresario Madeirense, Funchal

 

19 Monumento Alusivo AO 58º Aniversario DA Forca Aerea, Funchal

 

20 Cable Cars, Funchal

 

21 Old Town, Funchal

 

22 Institute of Madeira Wine, Funchal

 

23 Municipal Garden, Funchal

 

24 Municipal Garden

 

25 Rotunda do Infante, Funchal

 

26 Savoy Palace Hotel, Funchal

 

27 Monumento da Paz e Liberdade, Funchal

 

28 Estádio do Marítimo, Funchal

 

29 Hebridean Sky in Funchal

 

30 Monumento ao Combatente Madeirense no Ultramar, Funchal

 

31 Igreja de São Martinho, Funchal

 

32 São Martinho Cemetery, Funchal

 

33 Paróquia de Santa Cecília, Funchal

 

34 Banana Plantations

 

35 Câmara de Lobos

 

36 Câmara de Lobos

 

37 Câmara de Lobos

 

38 Câmara de Lobos

 

39 Câmara de Lobos

 

40 Câmara de Lobos

 

41 Câmara de Lobos

 

42 Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

43 Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

44 Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

45 Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

46 Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

47 Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

48 vertigo at Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

49 Paróquia de Câmara de Lobos

 

50 Paróquia de Câmara de Lobos

 

51 Câmara de Lobos

 

52 Câmara de Lobos

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Sun April 23, 2023 – Mass and Monte

 

After breakfast, we took a short taxi ride to Capela da Penha de França (Chapel of Our Lady).  Mass was celebrated in English by Fr. Bernardino Andrade.  The music and the tone of the Mass and its priest were all upbeat [reminded us of our home parish, the only Charismatic Catholic Church in the New York area] and the people were very welcoming.  And there was coffee/tea and cake in the hall after Mass.  The musicians heard me singing and asked if I’d like to join them in the future.  [DW said I couldn’t get my hat on for the rest of the day…]

 

Now we wanted to go up to Monte (Mount), where there are several famous gardens.  Monte, 550m above sea level, has a cooler climate than Funchal and there is a peaceful environment which enticed the wealthier citizens to retreat there in the hot weather.  With the development of good roads, Funchal has spread up the hillside and now encroaches on Monte.

 

There used to be a steam railway from Funchal up to Monte (replaced by cable cars), and there still are wicker toboggans for a ride down.  We had no intention of taking the toboggan ride, and as it turned out we didn’t take the main cable car either.

 

DW hailed a cab but the driver didn’t understood that we wanted him to drive us all the way up to Monte, so he let us off at the lower cable car terminal in the Old Town – we thought of taking the cable car since we were there, but there was a long line for tickets [so that was eight Euros wasted!]  We hit an ATM to make sure we had enough cash for another taxi and then found one who actually drove us up to Monte [for another 14 Euros]

 

There wasn’t much signage where we were dropped off.  After a little uncertainty, we asked a waiter how to reach the Monte Palace Tropical Garden.  He gave us clear directions and we were at the gate in no time.  No senior rates for us today, but it only cost 25 Euros for the two of us.

 

The paths down were extremely steep and rocky underfoot.  The first section had a historical overview of Portugal’s kings and heroes on a series of incredibly colorful azulejo tiles.  Throughout the garden were dozens of other beautiful azulejos, in the traditional blue and white color scheme, and sculptures ancient and modern.

 

The garden occupies 70,000 square meters and is home to an abundant collection of exotic plants from all over the world (trees and flowering plants), tile panels, exhibitions, contemporary African sculpture, ponds with koi fish, flamingoes, swans, a stunning Oriental garden and several minerals from all over the world.  (Although advertised, we never saw the peacocks from India in any of the gardens.)

 

Finding the climb back uphill rather daunting, we opted to pay 10 Euros for the two of us to ride in an antique-style electric car along with a British couple with whom we chatted for a while before going our separate ways.

 

Following that chap’s directions we found the other cable car’s terminal to take us down to the Jardim Botânico (Madeira Botanical Garden), all for 37.80 Euros (round-trip ride and entrance to the garden).  It was an eight minute ride.  Upon disembarking, we went into the café and I had a warm Pastel de Nata.  DW had her ham/cheese sandwich from the hotel.  [Did I mention she's always a cheap date?]

 

Then off we went downhill to explore this much touted garden.  These grounds once held the estate of the Reid family (founders of the world-renowned Reid’s Palace hotel in Funchal).  We decided not to do the entire grounds and did not visit the topiary garden, the economic plants, the aromatic herbs…  [And we somehow missed the Jardim Orquídea – orchids just weren't happening for us on this trip!]

 

We focused on native plants, roses, cacti, coastal plants, birds of paradise and the famous picture postcard carpet bedding, which at this time was in a state of reconditioning.  Its purple, red, green, yellow, white and gold diamonds, lozenges and circles demonstrate the great richness and variety of color to be found just in the leaves.

 

There was also a view of some of Madeira’s famous tunnels, including a long curved one.  [Did I mention they are very proud of their tunnels?]

 

We made our way back up and walked to the cable car.  We were the only ones there and hopped on the next gondola while it was in motion.  They slow down but do not stop.  It’s not a Ferris wheel!  Upon disembarking, we climbed 212 steps up to the other cable car which goes down to Funchal. 

 

There was a line for the cable car, so we decided to visit to Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Monte (Our Lady of the Mount).  Climbed another 60+ steps to reach the entrance.  Few people were inside.  It was very ornate with gold décor, crystal chandeliers, and a painted, designed ceiling.  First built as a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Incarnation, it was replaced by the current church and dedicated to Our Lady of the Mount in the 1740s.  When it was barely a few months old it was seriously damaged by an earthquake in 1748 and had to be rebuilt.  It was finally consecrated in 1818.  As with everything up in Monte, there was a beautiful view from the church plaza.

 

We walked back to the Tropical Garden entrance and asked about taxis.  We were told that chances were slim at 4:15 – but one came along and DW hailed it.  As we were on our way, the driver announced they don’t use meters on the mountain.  They charge a flat rate and his was 30 Euros.  I argued with him but to no avail.  It was the best and shortest cab ride we’d had in the past two weeks because he took a straight route down that was hard on his brakes.  And it was cheaper than taking the cable car, and more convenient.  [But the hotel confirmed that we had been ripped off.]

 

For dinner, we walked west to Regional Flavours.  The joint was jumping.  Every table indoors and out was taken.  The head waitress (the only woman, who seemed to be in charge of the two waiters) asked us to wait a few minutes while someone outside paid the bill.  Then they would move that table inside for us, which they did.  However, it went on like this the whole time we were there.  People kept coming and waiting, and just before we left more furniture was brought indoors to accommodate four more people.  We have never seen wait staff give such service and move so quickly up and down a few interior steps to take orders, bus and set up tables, and bring completed orders to the customers.

 

DW ordered vegetable soup which turned out to be a relatively thick creamy broth with cut up zucchini and carrots in it; somewhat unusual but piping hot.  Then for an entrée, she had grilled scabbard fish in a mild garlic sauce accompanied by sweet potato and more carrots.  I loved my starter, pulpo à la Gallega [octopus cooked as in Galicia, Spain] and I liked the fish of the day [dorado or sea bream – I’m still not sure which one she gave me] grilled with garlic sauce and served with sweet potatoes and zucchini.  I ordered dessert and was given fresh flan [we saw one of the kitchen staff take off down the street and bring back a brand new full-sized one to cut up].  And because I had made the reservation online at The Fork [www.thefork.com], we got a 30% discount on the food!

 

Leaving there we went in search of a gelato store.  Not where we thought, but we found one about five minutes from our hotel.  DW got a scoop of the café/coffee flavor.

 

01 Capela da Penha de França, Funchal

 

02 Capela da Penha de França

 

03 Azulejo of Monte Toboggan and old Steam Train, Monte

 

04 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

05 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

06 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

07 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

08 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

09 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

10 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

11 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

12 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

13 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

14 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

15 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

16 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

17 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

18 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

19 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

20 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

21 view from Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

22 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

23 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

24 Monte Palace Tropical Garden

 

25 Botanical Garden cable car, Monte

 

26 Jardim Botânico, Monte

 

27 Jardim Botânico

 

28 Jardim Botânico

 

29 Jardim Botânico

 

30 Jardim Botânico

 

31 Jardim Botânico

 

32 Jardim Botânico

 

33 Tunnels from Jardim Botânico

 

34 Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Monte

 

35 Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Monte

 

36 ceiling, Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Monte

 

37 view from Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Monte

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Mon April 24, 2023 – West Island Tour, Madeira

 

After breakfast we walked downhill to the Praça where we waited for Reuben (of Madeira Island Tours) to pick us up in the familiar van for the West Tour.  He arrived a little late but already had four passengers with him.  We proceeded through Funchal with its clean sidewalks and streets thanks to the shopkeepers and municipal employees with sidewalk vacuum cleaners.  He continued to pick up more passengers till we almost filled every seat with 14 of us.  I rode shotgun again and DW sat behind me in the single seat near the slider door.

 

We passed purple flowering Jacaranda trees originally from South America [beautiful, but they stink] and flame or tulip trees from Africa.  We saw banana plantations with blue bags on some of the trees to ward off the salty ocean air, birds, and other pests.  Banana cultivation is the 4th biggest industry in Madeira – yet I don’t think we ate any on this entire trip.

 

We soon saw the welcome sign for Câmara de Lobos (= den of wolves).  There never were any wolves – Zarco, who discovered Madeira, mistook flocks of monk seals resting on the rocks as wolves.  Câmara is set in a peaceful cove and is a fishing village.  This huddle of white-washed, red-tile roofs and the view from the seafront is particularly idyllic and was often captured by Winston Churchill in his paintings in his many visits to Portugal.

 

We had already visited here briefly on Saturday on the Yellow Bus.  [Lots of pictures of Câmara in the blog entry for April 22]  This time we checked out the progress of the steam shovel that had been busy moving rocks in the harbor two days before, and watched some kayakers in the cove.

 

Reuben then drove us out to Miradouro do Cabo Girao, the highest cliff [which we had also visited on the Yellow bus, so we opted not to walk out to the glass floored overlook again.  We had decided to cover this ground on the bus in case the weather was bad today – but this was a lovely day!]

 

Duplications over, our next stop was Ribeira Brava (angry river).  Located along the southern coast, the river had an extremely strong and powerful current wreaking havoc on the banks along its route.  We visited the town’s São Bento Church which houses a rich collection of 16th and 17th century paintings, sculptures, goldsmithery and gilded woodcarvings.  The local bakery was doing a great business.

 

We drove to the edge of the sea to take in Ponta Do Sol, once a thriving center for agriculture and fishing, it now derives income from construction and industrial enterprises and from the service industry, particularly tourism.

 

Our last stop before lunch was Paúl da Serra, the largest and most extensive plateau of Madeira.  We had a limited amount of time to walk part of the Levada do Risco, but we had to dodge the stray cows and their calves who had wandered in from who knows where.

 

Downhill again to the water to have our two-hour lunch break in Porto Moniz.  We took Reuben’s recommendation and ate fish in Mar a Vista.  We each had a different scabbard fish preparation but they were not culinary treats.  After eating, we walked the promenade to the Fort under which was an aquarium (with too high an entrance fee for the short time we would be there).  The big tourist draw is a natural complex of lava pools for those who like to go swimming.

 

It was time to make our way back east to Funchal, stopping briefly at Miradouro do Véu da Noiva for a photo op of Bride’s Veil Waterfall with a black sand beach below us.  Our last viewpoint was Água d'Alto, a high waterfall near São Vicente.

 

Reuben dropped us off where he had met us in front of the Jesuit Church.  It was now open for evening Mass so I quietly took a couple of photos [which were included in the blog entry for April 20] before we returned to our hotel.

 

There I spent hours on the phone trying to connect with TAP re the mis-billing of our seating arrangements.  It never did get settled so we knew we’d better get to the airport earlier than planned the next day.

 

DW wasn’t feeling good, so she took a nap, then we went dinner at Tipografia restaurant in the hotel (as planned).  The waiters were amazed that we would want to dine inside on such a nice evening, but a number of diners came in after us.

 

We only ordered a main course as nothing among the starters appealed to us.  We both decided on the Magret of duck.  It was tough and tasteless.  And the sides were not inviting either.  We did not order dessert.  Our waitress Anna was attentive but some of the others seemed like robots [it’s a long day from breakfast to dinner].

 

01 Câmara de Lobos

 

02 Câmara de Lobos

 

03 Câmara de Lobos

 

04 Câmara de Lobos

 

05 Miradouro do Cabo Girão

 

06 Ribeira Brava

 

07 São Bento Church, Ribeira Brava

 

08 São Bento Church

 

09 Paúl da Serra

 

10 Levada do Risco, Paúl da Serra

 

11 Levada do Risco

 

12 Levada do Risco

 

13 Paúl da Serra

 

14 Porto Moniz

 

15 Porto Moniz

 

16 Porto Moniz

 

17 Porto Moniz

 

18 Porto Moniz

 

19 Porto Moniz

 

20 Porto Moniz

 

21 Porto Moniz

 

22 Porto Moniz

 

23 Bride’s Veil Waterfall 

 

24 Água d'Alto

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Tue April 25, 2023 – Flying back to Lisbon

 

Still not feeling well, DW began to mask.  We sat far away from others for our breakfast.  After we showered and packed, we checked out just before noon and Claudia, the desk clerk, had arranged car service for us to the airport.  Her coworker David took our bags to the driver.  Our ride cost 37 Euros including tip.

 

Arriving at the terminal at 12:35, we were too early to check in.  We sat nearby where we could see if the TAP desks were opening up.  We were the first to queue at 1:40 and the clerk finally called us at 2:00, capably resolved the over-charge and facilitated our having access to our checked bags in Lisbon.

 

We had no access to the airline lounges but there was plenty of seating (with tables) near the gate, so we ate the food we had brought from breakfast and I bought us bottled water.

 

Yet again we had to go downstairs to the tarmac to get on the plane.  [Once we had left Newark 16 days before, we never used a jetway again to get on any of our four remaining flights, and only once to get off, until we were back in Newark.]

 

We lugged our carry-ons upstairs to the plane and had two aisle seats.  It was a jet, but it was a dirty plane!

 

We arrived early evening in Lisbon, collected our luggage and headed to the Kiss and Fly lot to call an uber.  The first driver cancelled on us as he didn’t want to wait on the line into the lot.  On the second try a young Bangladeshi driver (whose family was already living in the Bronx) took us to our hotel, the DoubleTree Lisbon–Fontana Park.

 

After checking in, we discovered that this hotel has a weird set up.  Like a rabbit warren.  We dragged our luggage in and out of corridors, down and around ramps – only to find that our room card would not activate the elevator.  Another customer used his card to get us to our floor and we were able to access our room.  It was a big corner room.  The bathroom had a tub plus a separate stall shower.  And the toilet and bidet were closeted at the end.

 

DW took a short nap.  Then we went down and explained to the fellow at the desk about the key issue.  He promised to reprogram them, and brought the updated ones to us in the dining room.

 

We shared a green salad with avocado, mango, tomato, greens.  DW had a whole baby octopus, spinach and grilled potato.  Very nice!  I enjoyed a steak.

 

They had upgraded our room because of our Hilton Gold status, but it was one of those upgrade misfires:  the corner location meant twice as many windows so we could hear loud traffic noise from two different streets – and the walls in this hotel are thin, so we could also hear the guest in the next room talking on the phone and hacking his lungs out.

 

[I have decided that Doubletree hotels are not up to the standard they should be in the Hilton pecking order – Hilton took over this chain, and they should replace many of the hotels or dump it.  So no more Doubletrees for us.]

[Host Jazzbeau]

Wed April 26,2023 – Flyin’ Home

 

United texted us that there would be a flight delay, so we didn’t have to rush to the airport.

 

We had breakfast in the same dining room.  There was a buffet but also menu ordering.  DW ate her usual minimal meal.  I asked for two poached eggs on toast.  I received the eggs but no toast so I went to the buffet and made some.  [Another disappointment from Doubletree…]

 

We were checked out and in an uber by 9 am.  At that hour midweek there was lots of traffic, but our driver was very capable and got us to the terminal faster than I expected.

 

The Lisbon airport is poorly designed.  We needed to go up a double level to check in and the escalators were still out of service from two weeks ago.  It seemed only one elevator was working (and so slowly that there was a line 75 to 100 feet long).  We opted to drag our bags (all four of them!) up the marble staircase.  Ugh!  Two middle-aged American women offered help but we politely declined.  We’re not that old and weak!  We struggled but we made it.  Signage is also lacking, but we finally found the appropriate check in counter.

 

Now we only had our carry-ons.  I got through security with no problem.  DW hit the magic random number and had to be taped for drugs.  We then had to walk to the very last gate and down to the tarmac to board shuttle buses to take us to our plane.

 

The two of us got separated, so that I was on the bus and DW was back behind the rope.  I spoke to the starter who allowed her to squeeze in, but we still had a long wait standing on the bus.  Then the ‘starter’ hopped in the driver’s seat and turned out to be our driver!  It was a long drive to find the only United plane parked among dozens way out in ‘Siberia,’ and then a slow embarkation up more stairs.

 

We finally got to our seats in the third (and last) row of Premium Select and took off at 11:45 am (not the scheduled 10:25).  There are only 18 seats in that section, but by the time the flight attendant reached us with his food cart, he only had one chicken meal left – so we took it and a vegetarian one and shared.  The meat one was mostly stuffing.  [United’s service had been so good in Polaris business class on the way over that I was really disappointed by the drop off in service for Premium Select.]

 

Both of us slept on and off on the flight home.  At one point we awakened to find bottles of water on our arm rests.  About an hour before landing, we were offered warm turkey/cheese sandwiches and fruit salad.  That hit the spot.

 

We landed in Newark at 1:30 pm and were home by 3:15.  Spring had sprung in our garden.  The tulips were on their way out, but the lilacs were prolific.  Home!

 

DW tested positive for Covid.  [Another mild case, thank God – and I escaped.]

[vjt]

Jazzbeau,

I am beginning to have a slight bit of trepidation from reading your excellent blog. As I previously reported, we will be joining Le Commandant Charcot next week for a 19 day cruise to Greenland and Svalbard. By its very nature, we will be spending most of our time aboard. We will certainly be most upset to find that anglophones are second class citizens, and I will certainly make note of that as we go along. I myself attended high school in Paris, but my husband speaks no French. Frankly ( no pun intended) I have little hope of much comraderie from the francophones as a group…but some might be interested in visiting with us. I also expect a number of Germans as Hapag Lloyd has no great cruises to this region this year. And perhaps there will be other Europeans as well. Wish us luck!

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

15 minutes ago, vjt said:

Jazzbeau,

I am beginning to have a slight bit of trepidation from reading your excellent blog. As I previously reported, we will be joining Le Commandant Charcot next week for a 19 day cruise to Greenland and Svalbard. By its very nature, we will be spending most of our time aboard. We will certainly be most upset to find that anglophones are second class citizens, and I will certainly make note of that as we go along. I myself attended high school in Paris, but my husband speaks no French. Frankly ( no pun intended) I have little hope of much comraderie from the francophones as a group…but some might be interested in visiting with us. I also expect a number of Germans as Hapag Lloyd has no great cruises to this region this year. And perhaps there will be other Europeans as well. Wish us luck!

It may depend on how many anglophones are on your cruise.  But you have a big advantage, since I assume your French will come back to you far better than our US high school French could!  And our experience in France is that when one tries to speak French, that melts the barrier and it turns out that the francophones speak better English than you speak French – and are willing to since you were courteous.  [We do that in France, and luckily we are never expected to get beyond 'Bon jour' – apparently our accent is enough!]

 

I don't know if a larger number of Germans [or Italians] would lead Ponant to add those languages to the announcements and excursions.  On our cruise those groups were expected to choose between French and English and make the best of it – so I guess my complaints would ring quite hollow to them!

[Jim_Iain]

Thanks for your wonderful review.  It will take me a couple days to read it all.    You have a wonderful writing style and your pictures are spectacular.

[Host Jazzbeau]

2 hours ago, Jim_Iain said:

Thanks for your wonderful review.  It will take me a couple days to read it all.    You have a wonderful writing style and your pictures are spectacular.

Thank you so much!  I think the old format on Wordpress was easier to read, because the photos showed as thumbnails until you clicked on them.  Scrolling through these huge posts is a pain (even for me!) but Wordpress changed their free service and it no longer works at all for me.

[AussieBoyTX]

Thank you for the very detailed notes and pictures. I enjoyed following along!