Review of Ponant Le Bellot Essential Azores April 11-18, 2023

[Catlover54]

I just spent the last 2.5 hours reviewing your blog and pictures, and that is just my first pass. I am sorry I somehow missed it in recent weeks, because I had been on our Ponant trip in Ireland, and was then on a Hapag Lloyd cruise, and in between were doctor appointments, home repairs, planning our next trip due to an upcoming deadline, etc.)A trip to the Azores has been on my list for quite some time now, so I am carefully filing the link for information to reference in the not too distant future.  Thank you so much for including specifics about which local tour services and guides you used, and the pros and cons of the restaurants, and some of the hotels.

 

You and your lovely, petite and fit DW seem to have been able to 'consume mass quantities' of food along the way without a concomitant expansion of your BMI, so I am envious.  I doubt I would have had that kind of discipline or result.

I am also pretty sure that even if I had taken hiking sticks (which I tend to do lately if the path is steep), I would not have had the courage to continue on that muddy hike uphill in the rain and fog where you had water running into your shoes from above.

 

(cont'd)

 

 

 

[Catlover54]

A few comments and questions:

 

1.  You mentioned you had a cheese selection on the ship.  I had been disappointed with the cheeses on our Ponant cruise out of Ireland, but then thought it was a one-off.

On Hapag Lloyd recently I had choices of several dozen fine cheeses on board (including some of my soft favorites). A sampling of one night's cheese board offer included

"L'Ami du Chambertin, Bleu des Basques, Brie, Geramont, Gorgonzola,

Morbier, Munster, Pont-l'Eveque, Reblochon, Scamorza, Stilton".

Another night offered Camembert, Comte, Epoisses, Geramont, Langres, Picandou, Scamorza."

 

How was your cheese selection on this cruise, compared with those on HL that I listed? I'm not going to pick a cruise just for cheese, but considering I can make a meal (repeatedly) out of  wonderful baguettes (like on Ponant) and a good cheese (if offered), nice cheese offerings can help me forget about other culinary failings that may happen on a cruise.  I've only had one Ponant cruise, and don't know if other than on Commandant Charcot one can usually get good cheeses.

 

2.  Did you use a pedometer, and if so, about how many miles did you walk per day, on average, with the itinerary you had (ups and downs). I'm trying to compare fitness levels and plan (or reduce) my itinerary accordingly.   I have trouble going up hills (have to go slow, but can make it as long as I don't have to take near vertical high steps that would require very strong thigh and pelvic muscles), which is why I can't do Backroads anymore, and you mentioned you have trouble with Backroads now too.  Would you say your fitness level is about at the Backroads low end exertional level 2 right now, or higher?  

 

3.  At the beginning you said that in hindsight, there may have been too much of a good thing, e.g., too many volcanic  scenes, but your series of photos suggested they were all special in their own ways.  Maybe you just did great editing, but I found your description of Azores even more  titillating  than I hoped!  🙂

 

4.  I like having detailed narrative and pictures, as you provided, and I know *it is a lot of work*.  One small suggestion: I (and perhaps other readers) might  find it easier and even more enriching to have a little text, then a few pictures, then a little more text, then a few more related pictures, and so on, so one could  follow along more easily as to what is where and when, rather than a lot of text, then a lot of pictures.  I thought I was missing out on quite a bit by the time I got to the pictures in some of the sections. I managed (kept hopping up and down in the thread, which gave my internet some challenges), and still thoroughly enjoyed your report, please don't get me wrong. Maybe it's just a personal quirk of how I process and retain information and I'm out of line even suggesting this as an option.  I also realize that since your DW did the writing, and you the photos, doing more alternation with smaller bites would likely have been even more work for you, and as it is, it looks like you spent many, many hours on this.

 

5.  It was not encouraging to hear that you also had an 'Anglophone second class' problem, as my DH and I also did on our cruise (so we know it was not a one-off).  When I book another Ponant cruise, I will not book unless it has a specific English subgroup (or maybe if it is Commandant Charcot)

 

5. Were you in a base cabin?  Did you have any storage problems (or are your tiny wife's clothes so small they took near zero space :))?

 

6.  It was good to hear that there was at least one classical music entertainer on board (even if she wasn't dynamic -- however, given she is Ukrainian, she may have had a few other things on her mind 😞

 

You have created a wonderful travel guide of Azores and your Ponant cruise, and I congratulate you.  Thank you, thank you, and merci!

 

May I ask when and where are your next cruises (Ponant or otherwise)? My DH and I would enjoy meeting you on board, if our paths ever cross.

 

 

Edited July 28, 2023 by Catlover54
Typo

[Host Jazzbeau]

I'll try to answer your questions.  Some would profit from DW's input but I just spend the day at the hospital while she had surgery so she's not available at the moment... 😉

 

23 hours ago, Catlover54 said:

1.  How was your cheese selection on this cruise, compared with those on HL that I listed? I'm not going to pick a cruise just for cheese, but considering I can make a meal (repeatedly) out of  wonderful baguettes (like on Ponant) and a good cheese (if offered), nice cheese offerings can help me forget about other culinary failings that may happen on a cruise.  I've only had one Ponant cruise, and don't know if other than on Commandant Charcot one can usually get good cheeses.

It probably didn't measure up to what you quoted for Hapag-Lloyd (certainly not the 11-cheese day), but we felt it was a nice cross-section of French cheeses.  It seemed to change every day so even with only 6 a day it added up by the end of the cruise.  They never had my favorite French cheese (Saint-Andre triple creme), nor my favorite US cheese (Humbolt Fog), nor my favorite English/blue cheese (Stilton) nor English cheddar – those four make my go-to cheese plate at home.

 

On 7/27/2023 at 9:57 PM, Catlover54 said:

2.  Did you use a pedometer, and if so, about how many miles did you walk per day, on average, with the itinerary you had (ups and downs). I'm trying to compare fitness levels and plan (or reduce) my itinerary accordingly.   I have trouble going up hills (have to go slow, but can make it as long as I don't have to take near vertical high steps that would require very strong thigh and pelvic muscles), which is why I can't do Backroads anymore, and you mentioned you have trouble with Backroads now too.  Would you say your fitness level is about at the Backroads low end exertional level 2 right now, or higher?

DW wears a FitBit and we sometimes remember to turn on MapMyWalk.  DW would be better able to answer this question.  The circum-caldera hike on Horta definitely felt like more than 7 km and by the end we were both just putting one foot in front of the other praying that it would be over soon.  Same for the mountain hike with Ponant.  DW walks 3 miles a day at home, but it's paved and mostly level; I only walk when on trips – in a city we easily hit 10- or even 15-thousand steps.  But hiking on trips gets us into terrain and weather situations that my planning really hadn't accounted for.  Don't know how to translate our fitness into Backroads levels, because our Backroads/Ponant Iceland cruise showed that their tour leaders are just more 'into' hiking than we are so I have stopped paying attention.  I will say that our Odysseys Unlimited Patagonian Frontiers trip was at the comfort limit of our abilities – if you look at their description of that trip you can try to gauge our limit.

 

On 7/27/2023 at 9:57 PM, Catlover54 said:

3.  At the beginning you said that in hindsight, there may have been too much of a good thing, e.g., too many volcanic  scenes, but your series of photos suggested they were all special in their own ways.  Maybe you just did great editing, but I found your description of Azores even more  titillating  than I hoped!  🙂

Thanks.  I think the Azores cruise would have been fine if: (a) it was a month later so more flowers were in bloom, and (b) we hadn't tacked on the week in Madeira – but then the Azores cruise would have seemed too short to justify the long flights.  Maybe we should have combined the Azores cruise with a week on the Portuguese mainland.  And we did miss the 3 smallest Azores islands [if you're a 'completist' like me] – for that you might consider this itinerary from Noble Caledonia: https://www.noble-caledonia.co.uk/tour/3016/islands-of-the-azores/?search_url_id=60

 

On 7/27/2023 at 9:57 PM, Catlover54 said:

4.  I like having detailed narrative and pictures, as you provided, and I know *it is a lot of work*.  One small suggestion: I (and perhaps other readers) might  find it easier and even more enriching to have a little text, then a few pictures, then a little more text, then a few more related pictures, and so on, so one could  follow along more easily as to what is where and when, rather than a lot of text, then a lot of pictures.

I get it.  I really preferred the format I had on WordPress, where the photos appear as thumbnails with captions and you can expand them as you wish – that makes each post much more manageable in size (particularly when you go back to a post).  But by the time I get one of these ready to publication on Cruise Critic, I'm knackered over that trip and just want to get 'er done.  Sorry.

 

On 7/27/2023 at 9:57 PM, Catlover54 said:

5.  It was not encouraging to hear that you also had an 'Anglophone second class' problem, as my DH and I also did on our cruise (so we know it was not a one-off).  When I book another Ponant cruise, I will not book unless it has a specific English subgroup (or maybe if it is Commandant Charcot)

That is my conclusion too.  But – Ponant is already so expensive that the added cost of a third-party like Tauck or Smithsonian makes it really really pricey.

 

On 7/27/2023 at 9:57 PM, Catlover54 said:

5. Were you in a base cabin?  Did you have any storage problems (or are your tiny wife's clothes so small they took near zero space :))?

On both of our Ponant cruises we were in a Prestige Stateroom, which is one step up from the base Deluxe Stateroom [kind of like olives, where the smallest size is extra-large...].  We felt that the cabin was well designed for storage so it wasn't a problem.  We did prefer the cabin on deck 4 because it doesn't connect to its neighbor so you get a small couch; on deck five there is a small chair placed in front of the connecting door.  I would really love to try a Deluxe Suite, which is half again as large – and especially the Prestige Suite, which is two connected Prestige Staterooms with one bed replaced by a big couch [and two bathrooms!].  But as I said above, the Prestige Staterooms are already expensive enough to make me think twice.

 

On 7/27/2023 at 9:57 PM, Catlover54 said:

6.  It was good to hear that there was at least one classical music entertainer on board (even if she wasn't dynamic -- however, given she is Ukrainian, she may have had a few other things on her mind 😞

Yes, we were very glad to support her because of those 'other things.'  And the wonderful ports that Ponant visits make entertainment less of an issue.  But people should be aware of how little there will be.

 

On 7/27/2023 at 9:57 PM, Catlover54 said:

You have created a wonderful travel guide of Azores and your Ponant cruise, and I congratulate you.  Thank you, thank you, and merci!

 

May I ask when and where are your next cruises (Ponant or otherwise)? My DH and I would enjoy meeting you on board, if our paths ever cross.

Thanks again, and likewise.  All our future booked cruises and land tours are listed in my Signature.  We will be trying Silversea for the first time in January because of a particularly good New Zealand–Australia itinerary – but I am having problems reconciling that itinerary with the strict Silversea dress code so this is probably one and done with them.  Also trying Windstar for the first time the following January because they have Caribbean itineraries that don't go to the same old same old islands the big ships do.  Otherwise our favorite cruise lines are Azamara and Noble-Caledonia for ocean cruises, and AMA and Scenic for rivers.

[Catlover54]

Thank you for taking the time to answer my many questions.

I hope your wife's surgery went well, and that she is appropriately recovering.

As we are now able to travel more in retirement (Covid didn't slow us down too much), both on land and sea, with tours and independently, I wonder how we're supposed to find time for all our pesky medical appointments and procedures -- couldn't they just go away and stop bothering us until we're finished :)?

 

I spent another couple hours looking at your recent Patagonia trip, including the many beautiful nature pictures, thank you!  I appreciate that you reported the few downsides there were (so travelers can be prepared) along with the many upsides, and the net balance.  I also enjoy your dry, observant humor. 

 

If I am correct, you are booked on the SS Whisper in Australia.  That is an older ship, without a lot of the upgrades (especially on foods and ambience) that the Moon and Dawn have (and presumably Nova will also have). Though some love her, don't give up on SS if you are disappointed about a few things there -- SS has many great itineraries. I also wouldn't worry too much about the dress code (within reason), unless you feel you have to eat a full meal in the main dining room every single night and don't want to bring even one jacket and tie.  If they are in the mood for enforcement, you can order course by course for your suite, or eat at the alternative venues.

 

DH and I were not crazy about the double Prestige suite on Ponant with the couch.  We enjoyed the closet space, but mostly we just kept bumping into oddly placed furniture, and didn't think the extra cost was worth it, and it may not be worth it to you either as you don't have a lot of stuff you to store.

 

Also a word of caution about Classic Journeys.  We did a Greece trip with them a few years ago, and we were underwhelmed.  There was a tremendous amount of surreptitious cost cutting and the guide we were stuck with was horrible and arrogant and made clear he hated having to 'serve' on affluent Americans.  Worse, their response to my 8-page letter outlining my concerns was pathetic and unapologetic.  We throw their catalogues straight into the recycler. Hopefully things are better now (Italian Lakes are lovely).

 

 

 

 

 

[Host Jazzbeau]

Thanks for the warning.  Our bucket list is getting done and we are looking more at interior locations that don't work well from a cruise – and DW made me swear off renting cars because the driver [her] can't see the scenery [and the navigator – me – gets distracted from giving directions when looking at the scenery...].  So we are trying out different small-group land tour providers.  Backroads is great if you are really fit and really need to hike every day.  Odysseys-Unlimited really impressed us on that Patagonia trip and I will happily book them again if itineraries appeal.  Classic Journeys had the best itinerary I found for the Italian Lakes [on paper at least].  Now I'm looking at Smithsonian Journeys for the English Lake District (and possibly Egypt).

[mitz18]

On 6/13/2023 at 8:16 PM, vjt said:

Jazzbeau,

I am beginning to have a slight bit of trepidation from reading your excellent blog. As I previously reported, we will be joining Le Commandant Charcot next week for a 19 day cruise to Greenland and Svalbard. By its very nature, we will be spending most of our time aboard. We will certainly be most upset to find that anglophones are second class citizens, and I will certainly make note of that as we go along. I myself attended high school in Paris, but my husband speaks no French. Frankly ( no pun intended) I have little hope of much comraderie from the francophones as a group…but some might be interested in visiting with us. I also expect a number of Germans as Hapag Lloyd has no great cruises to this region this year. And perhaps there will be other Europeans as well. Wish us luck!

 

VJT - not meaning to hijack a thread, but curious how your trip was.  Same issues with treatment?

[Host Jazzbeau]

1 hour ago, mitz18 said:

VJT - not meaning to hijack a thread, but curious how your trip was.  Same issues with treatment?

 

 

[vjt]

Hello Jazzbeau and Mitzi 18. Jazzbeau, thanks for the link to my recent and detailed description of our recent trip to the Arctic on Le Commandant Charcot. I think your questions will be answered there, and possibly more. The short version on this particular topic is: this is a very different cruise than even most expedition cruises. First of all, folks on this ship are very well travelled, virtually all had been to Antarctica and many already to the Arctic. They understand this type of cruise, are very congenial, regardless of nationality and do not seek special treatment and don’t complain should the weather be less than ideal. Socially, yes, we tended to mix with anglophones or francophones, but informal greetings or conversations were relaxed in both languages. The former were from many countries, and that was fun. For excursions on zodiacs, we went with a common language. The crew and Captain were scrupulous to be sure we all had the same information at the same time. At dining, or bars or performances, everyone was treated extremely 5* well! Some lectures were not available in both languages, but recaps took place with everyone together, in both languages.

This was our first Ponant cruise, so my conclusions are not applicable to their other ships or cruises. This was strictly an expedition cruise, so everyone had the same general goals and interests. Second, we all understood that we were experiencing the very best of modern ice cruising and we were all very grateful. The passengers were super well travelled, polite and interesting. Finally the crew, food and accommodations were brilliant….so we were all very happy! In short, a unique experience. If there are more specifics you would like to know, feel free to ask.

 

 

[mitz18]

On 8/17/2023 at 9:49 PM, vjt said:

Hello Jazzbeau and Mitzi 18. Jazzbeau, thanks for the link to my recent and detailed description of our recent trip to the Arctic on Le Commandant Charcot. I think your questions will be answered there, and possibly more. The short version on this particular topic is: this is a very different cruise than even most expedition cruises. First of all, folks on this ship are very well travelled, virtually all had been to Antarctica and many already to the Arctic. They understand this type of cruise, are very congenial, regardless of nationality and do not seek special treatment and don’t complain should the weather be less than ideal. Socially, yes, we tended to mix with anglophones or francophones, but informal greetings or conversations were relaxed in both languages. The former were from many countries, and that was fun. For excursions on zodiacs, we went with a common language. The crew and Captain were scrupulous to be sure we all had the same information at the same time. At dining, or bars or performances, everyone was treated extremely 5* well! Some lectures were not available in both languages, but recaps took place with everyone together, in both languages.

This was our first Ponant cruise, so my conclusions are not applicable to their other ships or cruises. This was strictly an expedition cruise, so everyone had the same general goals and interests. Second, we all understood that we were experiencing the very best of modern ice cruising and we were all very grateful. The passengers were super well travelled, polite and interesting. Finally the crew, food and accommodations were brilliant….so we were all very happy! In short, a unique experience. If there are more specifics you would like to know, feel free to ask.

 

 

Sorry have been off the grid for a bit.  Read & enjoyed your recap and looks like a great trip.  There has been a lot of discussion regarding the feelings of “separation” between passengers & glad you did not experience that - I just wonder how much the fact yours was an “expedition” cruise and/or the small amount of passengers played into that.  Not really a question; more of an out-loud thought.  Again, thanks for the review & glad you enjoyed the trip.

[vjt]

Mitz18...I am responding because I had been thinking about the social issues.  But, perhaps I might sound a bit offensive...but these are my thoughts for what they are worth:  Absolutely, the fewer cruisers could have been a factor.  We were all unstressed by any type of activity that might include lining up, meals or listening to guides.  I am pretty sure there were no "groups" onboard, perhaps two couples traveling together...not even sure about that.  But also, it was a long, very expensive cruise on an expensive ship and before the end of the school year, at that.  So the passengers were sort of late middle-aged, extremely well travelled and, you might say, very "well raised." That is, polite and considerate, even friendly.  Also, the crew and captain absolutely went out of their way to speak English as well as French.  Everyone understood it was a bilingual cruise and were polite throughout announcements.  They set a fine example.  I am interested to see what the crowd will be like on the Madagascar cruise next January. I'm afraid it might be more typical of what others have had to report.  

[mitz18]

1 hour ago, vjt said:

Mitz18...I am responding because I had been thinking about the social issues.  But, perhaps I might sound a bit offensive...but these are my thoughts for what they are worth:  Absolutely, the fewer cruisers could have been a factor.  We were all unstressed by any type of activity that might include lining up, meals or listening to guides.  I am pretty sure there were no "groups" onboard, perhaps two couples traveling together...not even sure about that.  But also, it was a long, very expensive cruise on an expensive ship and before the end of the school year, at that.  So the passengers were sort of late middle-aged, extremely well travelled and, you might say, very "well raised." That is, polite and considerate, even friendly.  Also, the crew and captain absolutely went out of their way to speak English as well as French.  Everyone understood it was a bilingual cruise and were polite throughout announcements.  They set a fine example.  I am interested to see what the crowd will be like on the Madagascar cruise next January. I'm afraid it might be more typical of what others have had to report.  

Thank you for the honest thoughts and I look forward to hearing about the next cruise.  I hesitated to inquire as the sheer nature of the topic can be offensive, however one does not know if one does not utilize the experience of others.  I'd be the first to admit that having been fortunate enough to travel the world also means I've been unfortunate enough to see the rude side of people everywhere.  It's a part of life I guess, but would want to know what I am getting into before going as to be prepared.  Thanks again for the thoughts and safe/enjoyable travels to you going forward.