Very late report on Iceland, Greenland and Hudson Bay

[gnome12]

1 hour ago, drron29 said:

After Breakfast we anchored off Iqaluit the Capital of Nunavit province.

Just a quick correction. Nunavut (note spelling) is a territory, not a province. 😀🇨🇦

[drron29]

So now to Saturday. Awoke 0730,had a quick breakfast and out on the zodiacs at 0830 for a cruise through the Lower Savage Islands. You are dropped at one end,the ship relocates and you are picked up on the other side of the Islands.The sea was calm but it was overcast with showers. A pleasant zodiac cruise.

 

Some people had a good viewing of a polar bear.We got there in time just to see it disappear over a hill.

 

But still enjoyable with the rock formations and seeing the range of the tides on the rock.

 

I sure needed a nice hot cup of coffee on return. Then lunch and get ready for a 1430 cruise of Nanook harbour.

Ready to go.

 

We saw birds-here an auk

 

and waterfalls

 

and this

 

No not dirty snow but a mother polar bear and her cub.This is at 50X zoom. In real life this was not the best polar bear sighting. But we did see snow.

 

An interesting demonstration of the high water mark

 

But plants can still grow here.

 

So a nice cup of tea on return. Good recap.Great company at dinner and nearly last to leave. Up to the bar. Went outside to check if the lights were making another appearance but it was snowing so quickly back inside.

 

Edited July 13, 2023 by drron29

[drron29]

Sunday and our schedule calls for a zodiac cruise along the cliffs of Akpatok Island which is meant to be our best chance of up close polar bear viewing. But overcast,raining,3-4 metre swell and 70Kmh winds.
At 1045 the days activities are officially cancelled. So off we cruise to Douglas Harbour.
Here is our view of Akpatok.

 

Naturally the weather kept improving but all we could do was admire the sunset.

 

and the moon.

 

Some good lectures. Another night we decided to eat in our suite. Just had appetisers. Then off to sleep for a big day tomorrow.

[drron29]

Monday and we awake in Douglas harbour to a beautiful day.

 

As this is the Explorer's first time here various expedition parties go out. Decide on a spot and offer a difficult walk and an easy walk. I decide on the easy walk. I have always had difficulty climbing hills and the knee has made things worse. 30 go on the difficult walk and 78 the easy walk. I wait until my zodiac group is called so naturally last into the zodiacs. Most are waiting for us.

 

The zodiac ride both ways was pleasant with a very calm harbour.

 

The easy walk was a climb over rocks,bogs and uneven ground with a couple of steeper sections. However even part way up the views were great.

 

A lovely little stream.

 

A few on the easy walk didn't make it to the lake. I was the last of those I did. I hid my discomfort with photos of plants etc a way of taking a break.

 

See the beauty of photography. By getting down low and using a wide angle you can make the hill look much steeper!
The lake was nice with great reflections.

 

I looked up to the top of the hill where the hardy went up in a group.They came down though in 1's and 2's

 

Now when I made it to the top one couple made some disparaging remarks. Little did they know that although hopeless at climbing I have no problems descending even the steepest or most uneven descents. I left the lake near last. Spied the couple a fair way down the hill,caught up easily,made sure I was running when I passed and commented how easy a descent it was.

Now there were meant to be a lot of lemmings and caribou in the distance. I saw no live animals and even missed the dead lemmings so had to be content with this.

 

Then an easy ride back to the Explorer.

 

 

 

 

[drron29]

Whilst having lunch it was announced that Captain Maggi had offered to take a cruise up the Southwest arm of the fjord. Greatly appreciated. She took the Explorer to the end of the fjord,turned the ship on itself and then cruised out. Definitely a very good Expedition Captain. So enjoy Quebec as rarely seen.

 

Incoming!

 

A couple of the Expedition staff were returning in a zodiac. The ship did not slow. The zodiac was attached to the ropes,the crew climbed out and the excellent crew retrieved the zodiac.

 

And some more of beautiful Quebec.

 

So the last photos from Douglas Harbour,Quebec.

 

There is a motorised canoe with 2 guys fishing. They try to get close. When reviewing my photos I realise one of them is taking a picture with his Ipad.

 

Even the dog is along for the ride. We didn't see any evidence of a settlement near by.

[drron29]

After the recap we come back to the cabin to be greeted by this.

 

For the second time Rojaan has her birthday on the Explorer.
Had a really good dinner with good food and great companions. A couple of amarulas in the bar and a great night out on the deck.

 

Unfortunately a little cool.

 

[drron29]

Tuesday and it was Cape Dorset an Inuit art centre. Initially the weather was pretty good and this time I was in the first zodiac - but only because they wanted a single and mrsdrron was still protecting her back.
A quiet hamlet.

 

Within a short while of landing the wind began to pick up. The flags on the visitor's centre were demonstrating this.

 

The morning was taken up visiting Art Galleries. Several demonstrations during the morning.

 

Though some of the art was quite natural.

 

Of course you recognised that last photo-

An Oosik of course!

 

So some carvings.

 

Some more of town.

 

And some alternative art.

 

To be a little provocative there were some signs that Cape Dorset was a drinking town with an Art problem. Several older men and a group of youngsters were well under the weather.
Talking of the weather the wind had really come up and the zodiac ride back was a lot bumpier.

 

 

 

[drron29]

First lunch then a demonstration of throat singing.

 

Interesting but I don't think I am a convert.

 

The afternoon was a zodiac ride to the Mallikjuag Territorial Park across the bay from the town. This contains the ruins of the Thule era winterhouses of~AD1000. The Inuit called them the Little People. Certainly believe that from their homes. Before the Thule were the Devon and pre-Devonian cultures.
So to the Thule houses

 

The houses were on a little lake. From the bones there they ate well.

 

Still nature is also on show.

 

Lichen mosaics.

 

The view to Cape Dorset.

 

And the opposite bay.

 

Walking on the tundra here was a very different experience-very spongy. The weather had taken a turn for the worse and the zodiac ride back was very bumpy. My thighs had not really recovered from the hike so I needed a long soak in the tub before recap and dinner.

For dinner we were with Jack and Ann from Dallas and a fellow I ended up calling my Uncle Bruce and his wife Margo from Melbourne. The 6 of us became a regular team.
Bruce became my adopted Uncle after we realised we knew a few people in common and his Cardiologist a couple of years younger than I grew up just 6 houses from me .It is a small world.

[RetiredandTravel]

Thank you for taking the time on these trip reports.  We found your Mediterranean report to be extremely helpful with great information, especially for new folks.

 

 

[drron29]

Wednesday and the big day had arrived. Today was the day we hope to see walrus. The weather was a lot worse. Rain,strong winds and a high swell. First stop was Bencas Island. Unfortunately that was cancelled. So now my last hope was the place that led me to want to be on this voyage-Walrus Island.

We arrive at Walrus Island and it is still raining,wind 60Kmh and seas very choppy. It didn't look good so I went out on deck and took a few long distance shots-there were indeed walrus. This is why I invested in a new camera.

 

But then the wind drops,the skies clear and my prayers answered. We are off to the island by zodiac. Even from a little way out the scene was all I had dreamed of.

.

 

Closer in you can see these are mainly females and pups.

 

The reddish ones have just become a little hot.

Naturally a few more walrus shots.

 

The trip to the Island was very wet but coming back we were going with the swell. Didn't worry me I was very happy. The swell though is still a problem. Loading/unloading of the zodiacs was very slow. Captain Maggi has once again done a great job.

Dinner with the team,again very enjoyable. Then the liars club and a full moon.

 

Slept soundly and contented.

[drron29]

Wednesday we awoke it was a beautiful sunny day,wind was still 40Kmh but very little swell. I went to Karolina's talk on her trip to the North Pole and Mrsdrron went to the Chef's presentation which she thought was very entertaining.
By midday the temperature was 10C,50F so we thought it would be a good idea to eat on the back deck. However the wind was now-

 

So Rojaan looked like this.

 

As the day progressed the wind increased,the swell became very noticeable. Despite this at the Captain's farewell Captain Maggi wore even higher heels than at the initial reception. She didn't miss a step. Rapa shone,literally.

 

Captain Maggi gave a recap of the voyage. Many felt it the best farewell Captain's speech on the Explorer.

 

At the end we had our photo taken with her.

 

Now just in case you didn't pick up that I was wearing a bow tie here is another shot of it. And even though at that time a jacket and tie were not even suggested for the Explorer I wore both.

 

That's Karolina AKA The Chick with a gun. We first met her on our first SS cruise around svalbard. At one excursion I saw some interesting things away from the main group which took me close to where Karolina was standing so I went up to her for a chat. asked if I could call her karolina she just replied i am known as the chick with a gun.

 

After this the team had dinner with Deputy Expedition Leader Tim Amm,another delightful fellow.
A delightful end to our last sea day.Next Arviat.

 

 

[drron29]

Friday and an early breakfast for me. Once again I was on the first zodiac as they needed a single for a full complement. We had anchored 4 miles of Arviat and the ride seemed to take forever.
Arviat is home to the Caribou Inuit. Was set up in the 50s when the caribou migration didn't take place for several years so the Mounties moved several starving bands of Inuit here.
A very nondescript hamlet of 1800 souls.

 

The first activity for our group was visiting a local family. Obviously one of the families in Arviat as they were invited to meet the Queen on her visit to Canada. A small but obviously well lived in home.

 

[drron29]

More of the hamlet.

 

The town's insignias.

 

Our next activity was another couple demonstrating the typical dress and tent with all the uses made of caribou.

 

Then Rapa and Richard modelled Inuit snow goggles-very becoming.

 

[highplanesdrifters]

11 hours ago, drron29 said:

Wednesday and the big day had arrived. Today was the day we hope to see walrus. The weather was a lot worse. Rain,strong winds and a high swell. First stop was Bencas Island. Unfortunately that was cancelled. So now my last hope was the place that led me to want to be on this voyage-Walrus Island.

We arrive at Walrus Island and it is still raining,wind 60Kmh and seas very choppy. It didn't look good so I went out on deck and took a few long distance shots-there were indeed walrus. This is why I invested in a new camera.

 

But then the wind drops,the skies clear and my prayers answered. We are off to the island by zodiac. Even from a little way out the scene was all I had dreamed of.

.

 

Closer in you can see these are mainly females and pups.

 

The reddish ones have just become a little hot.

Naturally a few more walrus shots.

 

The trip to the Island was very wet but coming back we were going with the swell. Didn't worry me I was very happy. The swell though is still a problem. Loading/unloading of the zodiacs was very slow. Captain Maggi has once again done a great job.

Dinner with the team,again very enjoyable. Then the liars club and a full moon.

 

Slept soundly and contented.

What a haul out!

[drron29]

We were then taken to the information centre,a gift shop and community centre. At the Community Centre there was a brochure with an ad for a local airline announcing their new HS748 service! So more of Arviat.

 

So pictures in the community centre and the last of Arviat.

 

When I got back to the landing site it was obvious that the wind and swell had increased considerably. We were told initially it would be a 40 minute wait for the zodiacs. About 20 minutes later told that the second group's tour had been abandoned and we now had to wait as the Explorer repositioned to enable it to drift when we returned. I wasn't reassured when our young guide told me it was 8 years ago to the day that her grandfather had drowned a mile out and the weather was the same as now.

So now a 4.5 mile ride back. As the wind and swell were coming from behind the ride was pretty good. However when we got close we had to stop and wait our turn. Then the waves were breaking over the zodiac.

We finally got tied up at the side gate. The first 2 got off and I was next. I had stepped onto the side of the zodiac,was hanging on to the crew at the gate when I heard a shout-Stop. seconds I was hanging on whilst the zodiac rose and fell about 6 foot at a time every 30 seconds. Every time it started to come up I got a load of water in to my groin. I was getting pretty wet. I was glad when told to jump. Basically I owe my life to those fellows at the side gate.

So a good long soak in a warm tub before lunch and a post prandial snooze. The second singing demonstration was cancelled and we steamed off towards Churchill

 

[drron29]

Once again the team dined together and another great night.
Then the Northern lights decided to put on a final performance even though the sunset colours were still present. Fantastic. So finish the day with some pictures.

 

So only Churchill to go.

 

[drron29]

Saturday and we woke up in Churchill. Fortunately we were on the right side for the whales-actually Port side ie the side away from the wharf-see these nautical terms can end up being down right confusing.
So here is what we saw from our verandah.

 

And then it was into the zodiacs. Our zodiac was called Aiello so most of you will know who our silversea zodiac driver was. We went with the son of the owner of the agency SS was using here. A beautiful day and we were in for a bonus.

 

There were 4 different bears close to the shoreline. As you can see some of the zodiacs got close to the shore. These were the Explorer's zodiacs. We had a Russian couple in our zodiac. The fellow kept telling our guide to go in closer. He explained that the others were closer to the bears than allowed and also were in danger of collecting a rock. Our fellow kept insisting and when he couldn't get his way started telling the other passengers to move or sit down. All but 1 in our zodiac were a little annoyed.
But some more bears.

 

This last fellow was looking towards the old English fort probably hoping a tourist would wander a little far from the group.

 

 

[drron29]

We then went up river.Just an amazing experience.Beluga whales everywhere.Many would come towards the zodiacs looking us over.

 

The young whales are grey.

 

These gulls were about to get a surprise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This fellow came when our guide put a microphone in the water and played the sounds to us. It came past a couple of times and I thought it was looking straight at me.

It was now time to head back to the Explorer. As one several of us sat on the side the Russian fellow had originally been on. He protested that now he would have to stand up on the way back. No one understood a word he said.

 

 

 

[drron29]

On Saturday afternoon we took a bus tour of Churchill's"sights".First stop was "Snares "beach.

 

Called Snares beach because of these.

 

These were to catch polar bears. They are now allowed to stroll the beach-we did have 2 bear guards.

 

Evidence of a recent polar bear rest site. They now prefer to rest under rocks so the wont be seen by the helicopters.
We saw lots of geese.

 

And a ship wreck.Said to have lost steering in a storm. The locals have a different explanation related to the fact the mine it served closed 3 weeks after the beaching and it's high insurance value.

 

We saw the old rocket range.

 

And the Polar bear correctional facility.

 

There we saw the modern method of trapping a polar bear. All that was missing was the dead seal to attract the bear.

 

The airport was next to here and I was lucky enough to get a shot of the next flight awaiting permission from the tower to take off.

 

We were then shown the old gun battery at the mouth of the river.

 

This overlooked the fort on the opposite bank.

 

Then it was back to the ship for our final dinner ,amarula and then the sad packing of luggage.

 

 

[drron29]

Sunday and the time had come the walrus said to leave the ship at 0930. We were bussed to town for a 90 minute walk around. A few gift stores open. Rojaan got a few knickknacks.
One store had an unigue Inuit Ivory piece.

 

And next to it another unique piece.

 

But the stars of the morning were the sled dog puppies.

 

They followed me up a side street but I had to explain Australian Customs wouldn't let me keep them so they returned to mother.

There was an interesting T-shirt.

 

And we had our last polar bear encounters.

 

We then had a light early lunch at the seaport hotel. However a thick fog rolled in so our departure for the airport was delayed. So we had time to smell the flowers.

 

 

[drron29]

Fortunately the fog lifted and when we arrived at the airport our Enerjet 737 had just arrived.

 

There were some airlines I had never heard of serving Churchill.

 

Seating allocation was by deck so Deck 7 passengers were in the front seats so as deck 5 we were in row 4. I had the lucky middle seat.Well I actually scored 4A but someone decided that was their seat.
In front of us were our friends the Russians who as soon as the plane started rolling down the runway reclined their seats. Fortunately the recline is no more than a couple of inches so no real problem.

 

EG302. YYQ-YWG. ETD-1330. Push back-1359. Take off-1402.
ETA-1539. Landed-1532. At terminal-1546.

The country around Churchill at take off.

 

As we approached Winnipeg agriculture was obvious.

 

We soon saw the Airport and Winnipeg.

 

We landed and went to the General aviation Terminal. This upset a few who had tight connections. It took nearly an hour to unload the luggage and get it onto the busses. It was then a reasonable distance to get to the main terminal. No problem for us as we were booked into the Four Points at the airport.

We weren't expecting much just a sleep before on to Calgary do do our own tour of Alberta. Ended up seeing the northern lights every night.

We were quite tired so ate at the hotel.It was surprisingly good. I had a local beer,the fish soup which was very good and then the arctic char. Rojaan had a half bottle of white,the scallops and the ribs.

 

 

I really enjoyed this cruise. Greenland  is beautiful but i also enjoyed Hudson bay and being on the river in Churchill with all the beluga whales was definitely a highlight.

So back to normal programming.

 

 

 

[Mr Luxury]

11 minutes ago, drron29 said:

Fortunately the fog lifted and when we arrived at the airport our Enerjet 737 had just arrived.

 

There were some airlines I had never heard of serving Churchill.

 

Seating allocation was by deck so Deck 7 passengers were in the front seats so as deck 5 we were in row 4. I had the lucky middle seat.Well I actually scored 4A but someone decided that was their seat.
In front of us were our friends the Russians who as soon as the plane started rolling down the runway reclined their seats. Fortunately the recline is no more than a couple of inches so no real problem.

 

EG302. YYQ-YWG. ETD-1330. Push back-1359. Take off-1402.
ETA-1539. Landed-1532. At terminal-1546.

The country around Churchill at take off.

 

As we approached Winnipeg agriculture was obvious.

 

We soon saw the Airport and Winnipeg.

 

We landed and went to the General aviation Terminal. This upset a few who had tight connections. It took nearly an hour to unload the luggage and get it onto the busses. It was then a reasonable distance to get to the main terminal. No problem for us as we were booked into the Four Points at the airport.

We weren't expecting much just a sleep before on to Calgary do do our own tour of Alberta. Ended up seeing the northern lights every night.

We were quite tired so ate at the hotel.It was surprisingly good. I had a local beer,the fish soup which was very good and then the arctic char. Rojaan had a half bottle of white,the scallops and the ribs.

 

 

I really enjoyed this cruise. Greenland  is beautiful but i also enjoyed Hudson bay and being on the river in Churchill with all the beluga whales was definitely a highlight.

So back to normal programming.

 

 

 

Well done,

Another box ticked.

Interesting rasher of bacon on the scallops.😀

[spinnaker2]

Drron:

Do you have a photo of the quirky elevator on the Explorer? I wish i had taken one. 

Thanks for your post and photos!

 

[mysty]

Thank you @drron29 for your glorious trip report!  The regularly scheduled programming will pale in comparison!

[silkismom]

Oh, those belugas, always wanted to see one.