Mahahual, then and now

[Ladydee]

Regarding Mahahual in Costa Maya: I am confused how recent Trip Advisor reviews go from either 1-star to 5-stars. Yes, I know it depends on what peoples' expections are, but "nasty" to one person is still at least "bad," to another. Visiting there while in port is pretty much non-negotiable for my group.

The backstory is that back in 2005, Costa Maya was a brand new port, and Mahahual was an unknown, unspoiled little gem of a town. The speed bump on the road there was some thick nautical rope laid across the dirt. We visited there while on the Grandeur of the Seas. In fact, we were the sailing that hit the pier and were "shipwrecked" there for 3 days. All other ships had left and we had the island to ourselves. Mahahual was a paradise.

My dad really wants to return andsee it. We know its changed and been built up for tourists, so we understand it will be a very different experience. That's ok. But to see these awful reviews are another thing altogether. I don't care if I go or not, but I really don't want my dad to be disappointed 😞 

I'd just like some input here from people I can have a conversation with, rather than just a written review, ESPECIALLY if you were there both back in the day, and more recently, to compare.  Thank you.

 

[crewsweeper]

Aah.  A fellow vet of the Cat's Meow and Cha Chi's hole in the wall.

You'll find everything changed. Port, town outside, the malecon. Even up to COVID, Costa Maya was my favorite port.  COVID saw a lot of places built up since the hurricane go out of business or change ownership. The "sleepy fishing village" is no more. Last two times we were there, we just hung out at Jaime's Blue Reef (Jaime used to have NoHoch Kay, which he opened after hurricane) and I didn't even walk up and down the malecon. Used to head up and say hello to Steve at Tropicante, but he's no longer there.  And sometimes, pre-COVID, grab a bite at Sak Ha a food truck near the lighthouse.

What places does your father remember and be interested in seeing again?

 

 

[clackey]

I miss the days of the Hole-in-the-Wall Gang.  Found out about Chac Chi here on Cruise Critic and had to check it out on our second visit.  Had the beach to ourselves.  The cruise companies tried to get the owner to sell and put a fence around the resort to stop entry.  Even the taxis were reluctant to go there, so someone made a hole in the fence.  Alas, a hurricane finally closed the resort down. 

 

Mahahual was a street of beach clubs and small stores.  I remember one about the size of my storage shed that was named Woolmart.  It was fun then but not our cup of tea now.  We will book one of the beach clubs like Nohoch, Maya Chan, or Jaime's.  To be honest, I really liked Calica better, even though you had to take a tour or a taxi to see anything. 

[bandtaxi]

We were on a cruise that canceled this port the day yours hit the pier! I remember showing pics of your ship to our group.  Costa Maya was always one of our favorite stops with Steve at Tropicante being the place we spent most of our time.  
 

The port area itself had changed a lot before the hurricane, with more shops, etc. We have not been back that way since but are going in a few weeks.  I will be happy to report back to you after that if you still need info. Anything specific you want me to check out or look for?  We plan to go in to Mahahual and see how things are there. 

[Ladydee]

On 1/6/2024 at 1:19 PM, crewsweeper said:

 

What places does your father remember and be interested in seeing again?

 

 

 

My memory is a little hazy, and I'm confused because I think (in my FB group) that people call the whole port, "Mahahual."  When I was there, we had the port - a big, constructed cement area with a fountain, Diamonds International, etc., and then we had to leave that area and "drive to" Mahahual (I thought).  There was basically just a beach, some little hut-type place to get food, a guy walking up and down with an iguana for photos, and a girl giving massages.

 

I think my dad would just like to have that unspoiled experience again.  Chairs in the sand, cheap beer and tacos, not a care in the world for those few hours.

[Ladydee]

On 1/8/2024 at 5:02 AM, bandtaxi said:

 I will be happy to report back to you after that if you still need info. Anything specific you want me to check out or look for?  We plan to go in to Mahahual and see how things are there. 

Nothing specific, and I don't remember the names of anything.  I guess just hoping to find some quiet stretch of clean beach where he can be on the sand (in the shade) and relax.

[crewsweeper]

13 minutes ago, Ladydee said:

 

My memory is a little hazy, and I'm confused because I think (in my FB group) that people call the whole port, "Mahahual."  When I was there, we had the port - a big, constructed cement area with a fountain, Diamonds International, etc., and then we had to leave that area and "drive to" Mahahual (I thought).  There was basically just a beach, some little hut-type place to get food, a guy walking up and down with an iguana for photos, and a girl giving massages.

 

I think my dad would just like to have that unspoiled experience again.  Chairs in the sand, cheap beer and tacos, not a care in the world for those few hours.

Take a taxi to Sulumar or Machos. Both at the southern end of the main malecon in Mahahual. Thus away from the crowds and roving vendors.

[Loucat]

We-went-to-Costa-Maya-in-2004-on-Explorer-of-the-Seas.This-was-our-first-cruise-with-MANY-to-follow.

I-remember-a-tour-by-bus-to-likely-someone's-house-on-the-beach.It-was-at-the-opposite-end-from-Mahajual.Also-remember-fondly-sitting-in-beachchairs-in-the-shallow-water-at-theCats-Meow.I-still-have-their-T-shirt-and-photos.Owner-was-from-Canada.She-would-carry-a-beautiful-black-cat-around-with-her.

The-strip-was-nothing-like-it-is-now.Most-places-were-right-on-the-water-and-very-low-key.Not-crowded-but-food-was-inexpensive-and-tasty.

The-whole-area-wasdevastated-by-Hurricane-Dean.The-Canadian-owner-returned-to-her-country.We-were-there-post-Dean-and-it-was-hard-to-believe.Hardly-a-tree-left-standing;just-sticks-in-the-ground.

We-were-just-there-again-late-2023.Have-done-that-Western-Caribbean-itinerary-about15+-times!

 

[c-leg5]

You are correct, the port originally opened in 2001. If you were there in 2005 that would be before the area (port of Costa Maya and nearby fishing village of Mahahual) were completely destroyed by Hurricane Dean in 2007. Originally you could walk along the coast from the port to Mahahual.

 

After the hurricane the port was completely rebuilt, and with the aid of the Mexican Government tourist  division the sleepy fishing village of Mahahual was revamped. A paved “malecon” was constructed instead of the dirt road with beach clubs on one side of the road and bars, restaurants, facilities on the other side. I think the port reopened in 2009. It took some time to re-establish with the further set back due to the swine disease  closure. The port area is now wholly enclosed except one exit. It has had a couple of cosmetic revamps over the years with added attractions and recently another pool and flow rider were added. 

 

It was a few years after the re-opening before we returned because local ships didn’t include it in their itinerary, but several visits prior to the Covid shut down, Mahahual, the town, was flourishing with beach bar after beach bar along the whole length of malecon (about 1 mile) from Sulumar to Blue Kay, (next to the lighthouse). You can see all this on Google maps and take a virtual walk from the port. As you realize, it is no longer the undeveloped town you once knew or your father will remember. Prior to Covid, we were quite enjoying the new venues and had our favorites. There were places to satisfy different tastes and budgets.

 

Sadly, we have not been impressed since Covid and feel it has become overpriced and greedy, perhaps through need, but sadly the service and  attitude are not welcoming at many locations. The facilities available do not warrant the prices charged and we have been disappointed. Taxi rides are now $4 pp each way. 

 

Unfortunately Mahahual and area also has a major sargassum problem which is a natural seasonal disaster. They are an unfortunate victim of circumstance due to location but it has been an increasing problem in recent years. The Mexican government has again tried to help the area and has installed offshore baffles to try and protect the beach with mixed success. 
 

I hope you and your father enjoy your day. Agree with @crewsweeper the southern end will probably be quieter but it is difficult to find a quiet location with cheap beers now. Many beach bars have gone over to AI or at least a minimum consumption charge. We used to enjoy bar hopping along the malecon but find this increasingly difficult unless you just sit in the bars across the road from the beach.

Edited January 9 by c-leg5

[carbon]

What time of year is bad for sargassum?

[Bluewake]

On 1/6/2024 at 10:46 AM, Ladydee said:

Regarding Mahahual in Costa Maya: I am confused how recent Trip Advisor reviews go from either 1-star to 5-stars. Yes, I know it depends on what peoples' expections are, but "nasty" to one person is still at least "bad," to another. Visiting there while in port is pretty much non-negotiable for my group.

The backstory is that back in 2005, Costa Maya was a brand new port, and Mahahual was an unknown, unspoiled little gem of a town. The speed bump on the road there was some thick nautical rope laid across the dirt. We visited there while on the Grandeur of the Seas. In fact, we were the sailing that hit the pier and were "shipwrecked" there for 3 days. All other ships had left and we had the island to ourselves. Mahahual was a paradise.

 

 

We also were there on the Grandeur in 2005.  The port area was very different...much smaller than today.  We went to the village of Mahajual and had coconut shrimp at the Cat's Meow. Then, we spent some time on the beach.  It was such a relaxing port experience.  We went back in 2006 and took the Native Choice tour with Ivan and David to Chacchoben before heading to the village for a while.  Another great time.  In the years since, we've been back several times. In fact, we were just there last week.  Unfortunately, the village of Mahajual is very different from our initial visits.  After two or three experiences involving vendors lined up and relentlessly coming one-after-another to sell you the same souvenir items, asking to braid your hair, or to give you a massage, we stopped going to the village.  Yes, I know they are just trying to make a living and a polite "no thanks" was usually sufficient but we found we had to do that about once every 3-4 minutes while at the beach or walking along the malecon and it became onerous.  Our next couple of trips, we either took an excursion or  just stayed at the port area which was less intense.  However, it wasn't long before the port area involved dealing with vendor after vendor who wanted to put some sort of lotion on you and pull you into their store.  We tired of their lines  (e.g. "are you a movie star"?  because I was wearing sunglasses).  So, when we were there last week, we went to Maya Chan, a private beach oasis about 4 miles below Mahajual.  It was wonderful!  Okay, the water is a bit more murky than the blue water by the port and the beach isn't anything to brag about but the overall experience of having our own private cabana set between palm trees and tropical plants, limitless food and drinks, no vendors, and the most polite staff we've encountered in the Caribbean was great.

[beshears]

Well I had to go BACK to my many pictures, and just check out how long it had been since I had been to Costa Maya or Mahahual myself. I know it was over 20 years ago, and as several have posted, I'm sure many things have changed, some for the good, some not. Guess the 8 of us will find out next month. I know several of my family like to snorkel, now whether they will be doing it here, I don't know, as they have been checking out this area before we head for the cruise. Is there anything that YOU might want to mention/suggest that you were impressed with at Costa Maya or Mahahual that we should see/do, as most of us get around pretty good?

[crewsweeper]

Having just returned from CM, I'm a bit disappointed. Used to be one of my favorite ports.  Malecon is getting more "seedy" and loaded with vendors hawking the same schlock in kiosks lining the front of the beach bars.  Krazy Lobster has a gazillion different areas, not all connected.

The port is no longer a "small shopping area".  Takes a good 10 minutes to navigate through and unless you're part of an excursion, to get a taxi you have to exit the port and walk up a couple of blocks where taxis are lined up.

[beshears]

OK, thank you for your reply.

[c-leg5]

2 hours ago, crewsweeper said:

Having just returned from CM, I'm a bit disappointed. Used to be one of my favorite ports.  Malecon is getting more "seedy" and loaded with vendors hawking the same schlock in kiosks lining the front of the beach bars.  Krazy Lobster has a gazillion different areas, not all connected.

The port is no longer a "small shopping area".  Takes a good 10 minutes to navigate through and unless you're part of an excursion, to get a taxi you have to exit the port and walk up a couple of blocks where taxis are lined up.

Sad that it doesn’t seem to be getting any better.

 

Taxis have moved outside again? I bet they haven’t reduced their prices that were supposedly because of port access. Is that because the new pool and flow rider are in that area?

 

We haven’t been this year but there definitely seem to be problems with government of the area since cruising resumed. There is a definite sense of greed and monopolies. It’s a shame when several new hotels were starting up and the area was thriving.

 

Did Jaimie share anything about the current situation?

Edited January 22 by c-leg5